The Anglo-Egyptian Sudan: a compendium prepared by officers of the Sudan government, Vol. 2 (of 2)

Chapter XXXVI: Appendix: (routes Partly Outside the Sudan.) (5)

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139.—GONDOKORO TO UGANDA (AND MOMBASA).

(_Compiled by the Editor._)

* * * * *

_Gondokoro and neighbourhood._ (_Vide_ also end of Chapter II in
Vol. I.)

BY CAPTAIN DUGMORE, 1901.

[Sidenote: Country.]

Near Gondokoro the country is perfectly flat and 30 feet above the river, covered with borassus palm near the station, sidr, sunt, and a few tamarinds and sycamore. Due E. lie the hills of Belinian (about 11 hours’ march). The surface soil is sandy and the sub-soil clay. There are many very fertile islands in the Nile covered with cane-like reed, very like papyrus. Natives prefer to live on and cultivate these islands, as they are not subject to white ants, grasshoppers, caterpillars, and blight, with all of which cultivation has to contend on the mainland. Flocks of small birds do great damage to grain crops. At high Nile these islands are subject to inundation; the natives then go over to the mainland.

The station now occupied at Gondokoro occupies the site of the old Egyptian post—a good many of the old trenches and parapets still exist. The old buildings, &c., have long ago fallen into the river, which is said to be twice (?) as wide now as it was in Baker’s time. Baker’s old camp (“Ismailia”) is in a swampy, low-lying piece of ground, about 2 miles N. of the old Egyptian station. Two date palms, 11 lemon trees, and two custard apple trees, still remain at Gondokoro.

Rain percolating and the river washing away cause continual falls of the bank.

[Sidenote: Garrison.]

One company of Uganda Rifles (Sudanese), under a British Captain, Lieutenant, and Sergeant-Instructor. A small number of Police or Constabulary have been added, and are under the control of the Civil Authority, viz.: a Collector.

[Sidenote: Supplies.]

At present nearly all stores, ammunition, and clothing, come from Mombasa, India, and England, _viâ_ Kampala. Food is obtained by purchase from the natives.[46]

Natives grow red dura and maize chiefly, also a small amount of semsem, telabun, ful (ground nut), and lubia (small pea or bean). The ground nut does particularly well in the sandy soil. The sweet potato requires irrigation, and the natives do not take kindly to such laborious work.

[Sidenote: Climate.]

The climate is fairly good, the rainy season at its commencement being the worst time of the year. Temperature:—

Average maximum during the hot months is 99° in the shade.

„ minimum „ „ 85° „

„ maximum during the rest of the year is 88° in the shade.

„ minimum „ „ 74° „

[Sidenote: Seasons.]

Hot weather commences middle of November and lasts till end of March. Rains commence (or should do so) last week in March and last till middle of June, they commence again middle of July and last till middle of October.

The rains are erratic, there being sometimes a drought and sometimes too much rain.

[Sidenote: Products.]

Dura, maize, semsem, ground nuts, beans, and fish. A small quantity of ivory. Salt from the left bank. Ostrich feathers from the Latuka. (N.B.—According to recent game regulations, it is forbidden to buy feathers unless it can be shown that they were pulled from a tame bird.)

[Sidenote: Cattle.]

In the Nile province generally, the goats and sheep are small (much smaller than those of the Sudan), and have little to recommend them. The cattle (the few that are left) are also small, but are good milkers on the whole.

[Sidenote: Game.]

Elephant, hippopotami and rhinoceros plentiful, especially the two former, a few zebras and giraffe, hartebeeste (? Jackson’s), waterbuck, bush buck, cobus Thomasi (Uganda cob), and dig-dig abound. Buffalo and warthog may be met with. Lion, leopard, and wild cat are fairly plentiful. (N.B.—During the dry weather months the game is found near the river in quantities; when the grass is high and there is water inland, it is not so easy to see much). Guinea fowl, greater and lesser bustard, quail snipe, ducks, geese, and other waterfowl and partridges are nearly always to be shot.

(_a._)—GONDOKORO TO WADELAI.

BY CAPTAIN DUGMORE, 1901.

NOTE.—See also report by Mr. F. Pordage, Public Works Department, Uganda, in Uganda Intelligence Report, No. 15; and Handbook of Uganda, pp. 52-57.

(_b._)—GONDOKORO TO WADELAI.[48]

---------+----------------------------+--------------------------------
| Miles and Hours.[49] |
+----------------------------+
Place. |Intermediate. | Total. | Description.
+------+-------+------+------+
|Miles.| Hours.|Miles.|Hours.|
---------+------+-------+------+------+--------------------------------
Gondokoro| — | — | — | — |Path good.
| | | | |
Laung | 11 | 3½ | 11 | 3½ |Path good, river Gomoro (Kit) is
| | | | |at times bad to cross.
| | | | |
Camp | 13 | 4½ | 24 | 8 |Path good.
| | | | |
Camp | 15 | 5 | 39 | 13 |Path good.
| | | | |
Fagiri | 12 | 4 | 51 | 17 |Path good; rocky in places.
| | | | |Large village; considerable
| | | | |supplies of food.
| | | | |
Keri | 13 | 5 | 64 | 22 |Path bad for 2 miles, remainder
| | | | |good.
| | | | |
Arabu | 16 | 5½ | 80 | 27½ |Path very bad.
| | | | |
Junction | 13 | 4½ | 93 | 32 |Path bad. River Assua difficult
Camp | | | | |to cross. When in flood about 80
| | | | |yards wide and 14 feet deep,
| | | | |with a swift current; when not
| | | | |in flood the river is fordable.
| | | | |Crossing is at all times
| | | | |dangerous on account of the
| | | | |numerous crocodiles.
| | | | |
Nimule | 14 | 4½ | 107 | 36½ |Path good. River Unyama at times
| | | | |bad to cross.
| | | | |
Zaipi | 18 | 4 | 125 | 40½ |Path good.
| | | | |
Boreli | 10 | 4 | 135 | 44½ |Path good.
| | | | |
Acho | 16 | 5½ | 151 | 50 |Path good. River Zoka at times
| | | | |bad to cross.
| | | | |
Pranga | 16 | 6 | 167 | 56 |Path good.
| | | | |
Avoi | 13 | 4 | 180 | 60 |Path good. River Chorr is at
| | | | |times bad to cross.
| | | | |
Wadelai | 19 | 6 | 199 | 66 |
---------+------+-------+------+------+--------------------------------

NOTE.—A small supply of food can usually be supplied at each of the above camps, with the exception of the Junction Camp. Water is obtainable at all camps. At many places fish can be bought. Trade goods are brass, wire, small white beads, candles, matches, bottles, and some cloth. Tarbushes are much appreciated by the chiefs. Hippo. abound in the Nile, and elephants between Nimule and Gondokoro. Lions are seen occasionally.

See also reports by Col. Coles, D.S.O., “Nimule to Gondokoro, and Gondokoro to Nimule,” in Uganda Intelligence Report, No. 19.

The following short account of the country between Nimule and Gondokoro is given by Sir C. Eliot (July, 1902), from _Geographical Journal_, December, 1902:—

“Immediately after Nimule begin the rapids, which render the river unnavigable up to Bedden, about 30 miles above Gondokoro. This latter station and Nimule are connected by two roads, neither of them good. One keeps close to the Nile, and was impracticable when I made the journey, as it was under water owing to recent rains;[50] the other runs further inland. It cannot be said to offer adequate means for communicating between two Government stations, or for the transport of any sort of goods. For a great part of its course is obstructed by marshes, thorn bushes, or grass 6 feet high; but here and there it passes through pleasant open meadows, studded with large trees. Part of it consists of precipitous paths cut in the rock, and it is crossed by many rivers, at least three of which, the Assua, the Karpata (?), and the Kit (or Kiti), present serious obstacles to foot passengers when in flood, as I found them. The first is crossed on rafts made of ambach, a very light wood. The natives show considerable skill in guiding these rafts across the torrent, but the passenger or load is generally half submerged. The two other rivers have to be crossed by wading, and are about 4 feet deep. The Kit was about 150 yards wide. The whole journey took me 7 days, that is to say, 6 night camps. The distance is between 110 and 120 miles.”

THROUGH COMMUNICATIONS WITH MOMBASA.

(COMPILED FROM OFFICIAL PUBLICATIONS, &c.)

Plenty of notice must be given by the intending traveller, in order to secure the use of porters, boats, mules, and carts.

[Sidenote: Nimule to Butiaba.]

From Nimule onwards the traveller can generally make use of Government boats. Between Nimule and Wadelai ([51]93 miles) the usual craft is a small steel rowing boat, and from Wadelai to Butiaba ([51]72 miles), (the Uganda Government Depôt on the E. shore of Lake Albert), a large steel boat which goes best under sail. The usual time occupied between Nimule and Butiaba is 10 to 12 days up stream, and 5 to 8 days down stream. A steam launch will shortly be placed on the river between these points.

[Sidenote: Butiaba to Kampala.]

At Butiaba is a pier and landing stage. From Butiaba _viâ_ Hoima to Kampala, 157 miles (telegraph), the road is fairly suitable for driving. The distance has been done in 4½ days, but the usual time taken is 8 days (driving) to 12 days (marching, with porters). The Stages are:—

MILES.

1. Wachi 6

2. Kajura 9

3. Hoima[52] 13

4. Kigonna 10

5. Kikonda 8½

6. Yilo 17

7. Kigoma[53] 9

8. Kiboga 5½

9. Kisingo 9½

10. Kative 15½

11. Kabula Mnbiro 9

12. Nkvanuna 11

13. Kikandwa 13½

14. Kisimbiri 11

15. Kampala 9½

Most of the main roads pass through Kampala.

[Sidenote: Kampala to Entebbe.]

From Kampala to Entebbe, the capital, situated on the Victoria Nyanza, is 23 miles along a good cart road.

[Sidenote: Entebbe to Port Florence.]

From Entebbe there is a fortnightly steamer across the lake to Kisumu, or Port Florence, the terminus of the railway to Mombasa. The crossing takes 2 to 3 days per steamer, and up to 10 or 15 days by sailing dhow.

[Sidenote: Port Florence to Mombasa.]

From Port Florence to Mombasa there is a weekly train (or more)—fare, 109½ rupees; the distance, 584 miles, is traversed in about 2¼ days.

There is a monthly service from Mombasa, both by British India and by German steamers.

RECAPITULATION.

-------------------------+---------+------------------------
Journey. | Days. | Transport.
-------------------------+---------+------------------------
Gondokoro to Nimule | 7 to 8 |March on foot. Carriers.
| |
Nimule to Wadelai | 6 | „ „
| |
„ „ | 6 to 8 |Row-boat.
| |
Wadelai to Butiaba | 4 to 6 |Sailing boat.
| |
„ „ | 3 |Steam launch.
| |
Butiaba to Kampala | 4 to 8 |Mule cart.
| |
„ „ |10 to 12 |March. Carriers.
| |
Kampala to Entebbe | 1 |Mule cart.
| |
„ „ | 2 |March. Carriers.
| |
Entebbe to Port Florence | 2 to 3 |Steamer.
| |
„ „ „ | 8 to 15 |Sailing boat.
| |
Port Florence to Mombasa | 2½ |Train.
-------------------------+---------+------------------------

Record possible, Gondokoro to Mombasa: 25½ days.

140.—ROADS IN THE LADO ENCLAVE.

[Sidenote: Roads.]

A road runs from Kiro to Rejaf direct, at some distance from the river bank, with a branch road to Lado.

The road from Rejaf as far as Faraji—170 miles to the S.W.—is about the same width as a good English high road. It has many bridges over streams, small khors, &c. They are made of wood and are not at all strong. There is a project to run automobiles[54] over this road, but the bridges are not at present (June, 1903) strong enough. One automobile will probably run between Rejaf and Yei station (94 miles), and another from Yei to Dongu (62 miles), as there is no bridge over the Yei. The Yei and Dongu are 40 to 60 yards broad and very deep during the rains.

There are some parts of the road which are worse than others, and it is proposed to have small stations at which bullocks will be kept in order to pull the automobiles over them.

There are rest-house stations every two or three hours the whole way from Rejaf to Dongu and Ibembo (_v._ below). At each of these stations there are houses for Europeans, and at a great number of them bananas, pawpaws, fowls, eggs, &c., are now obtainable.

Vegetables, bananas, &c., are being planted at all the stations.

Each station is in charge of one or more soldiers.

[Sidenote: Loka or Loki.]

Loka (called also Gumbiri).—Four days (62 miles) from Rejaf. A white officer in charge, and one or two N.C.O.’s. Surrounded by a wooden stockade. About six good brick buildings with grass roofs.

[Sidenote: Yei.]

Yei.—Close to the Nile-Congo watershed. Two days (37 miles) from Gumbiri. Large fortified station, but not yet completed, situated on high ground, from which good view of the surrounding country is obtained. A far larger station than Lado. About ten white officers and a doctor. None of the Belgian Nile stations in any way compare with this one. All white men’s houses are outside the fortifications. About 12 good brick buildings with grass roofs; very healthy.

[Sidenote: Aba.]

Aba.—Three days (32 miles) from Yei. Wooden stockade. Four brick houses and a large one being built for the Commandant. The latter outside stockade. One white officer and one N.C.O.

[Sidenote: Faraji.]

Faraji.—Four days (38 miles) from Aba, on left bank of River Dongu. Brick wall about 6 feet high. Ditch outside; earth from ditch thrown up against the wall. Good brick buildings. Three white officers.

[Sidenote: Dongu, &c.]

Dongu.—Five or six days from Faraji; at junction of Rivers Dongu and Kibali. Brick buildings.

Stations beyond Dongu, towards the Congo, on the automobile road, are:—

Niangara.

Surunga.

Amadi.

Bomokandi.

Mbima.

Buta.

Ibembo.

A road also leads from Mbima to Jabbir and Gembele.

[Sidenote: Bofaki.]

Bofaki, or Wando.—Important post, and garrison. Healthy. Large rubber and coffee plantations.

[Sidenote: Rejaf.]

Rejaf: on the Nile.—Small post. Bullock carts take 20 days along the sandy road from Yei; usual time 7 days by march route.

[Sidenote: Dufile.]

Dufile.—Small post. There is a railway-track ready made from here to Stanleyville on the Congo; not ready for traffic yet.

At all the posts mentioned there are cattle, fowls, bananas, vegetables, &c.

Mails leave Lado for Ibembo on the 1st and 15th of every month.

From Rejaf a road is being made to New Dufile, thence to Mahaji. This road is joined at Kaji Kaji, about 60 miles S. of Rejaf, by a road from Loka.

From Yei a road runs down the Yei River to Amadi.

* * * * *
LONDON: PRINTED FOR HIS MAJESTY’S STATIONERY OFFICE, BY HARRISON
AND SONS, ST. MARTIN’S LANE.

[Footnote 36: The position of this, described by Lieut.-Col. Colvile, is doubtful. Some Arabs state that Shebba is 8 hours’ march E. of Terfawi (?).]

[Footnote 37: Lieutenant Stuart-Wortley makes Selima to Lagia 140 miles; Captain Hodgson makes it 148, but left the regular track.]

[Footnote 38: Captain Hodgson did it (February, 1903) in under 5 days, including 42½ hours actual riding—nearly 4 miles per hour.]

[Footnote 39: Though Bir Sultan to J. Meidob appears to be the shortest route, the route to J. Anka is stated to be the one generally used.]

[Footnote 40: Conditions may have changed for the better since the delimitation of the Sudan-Eritrea frontier.]

[Footnote 41: For continuation of this route to Sofi on Atbara, _vide_ Route 13.]

[Footnote 42: For more recent report Lake Tsana to Gallabat _vide_ Routes 126 and 127.]

[Footnote 43: About 7 miles S. of J. Jerok.]

[Footnote 44: About 7 miles S. of J. Jerok.]

[Footnote 45: About 64 miles from Kodok, _vide_ routes 47 and 48.]

[Footnote 46: Cows, £5 to £7; oxen and bulls, £2 to £4; sheep and goats, 5s. to 10s. each; eggs, 8 for 1s.; fowls, 6d.; labourer, 10s. a month. (Mr. F. Spire, Collector, Gondokoro, August, 1903.)]

[Footnote 47: Another account places Adam Madi’s at 42 miles from Gondokoro, and some distance inland.]

[Footnote 48: Taken from “Précis of Information concerning the Uganda Protectorate.”—I.D.W.O.]

[Footnote 49: Distances by time for men travelling light; 25% to be added for Caravans.]

[Footnote 50: I am told by Mr. Pordage that the halting places on this road are as follows:—“(1) Assua river, 11¼ miles; (2) Rake village, 11 miles; (3) Mruli, 12 miles; (4) Lokoya, 12½ miles; (5) Tambur, 12¼ miles; (6) Kogi, 9¾ miles; (7) Nagua, 10 miles; (8) Fort Berkeley, 12 miles; (9) Ibrahim’s village, 12 miles; (10) Gondokoro, 10 miles.” (Total, 112¾ miles.)]

[Footnote 51: By water.]

[Footnote 52: Government Station.]

[Footnote 53: Rest house.]

[Footnote 54: They now (1904) run over a section of the road between Rejaf and Yei.]

Transcriber's note:

pg 6 Changed "Rock grouse aud doves" to: "and"

pg 11 Changed "Hormaneb Well" and "Bir Hormaneb" to: "Hormareb"

pg 20 Changed "and than a N.N.E. direction" to: "then"

pg 36 Changed "and Wada Sangareh" to: "Wadi"

pg 42 Changed "kittr, laot, talh and saut" to: "sant"

pg 44 Changed "Debaina village and residence" to: "Debania"

pg 61 Changed "popula-lation about 1,000" to: "population"

pg 69 Changed "Selim and Dar Agil Haggaras" to: "Baggaras"

pg 72 Changed "Water suppy scanty" to: "supply"

pg 72 Changed "J. Kumuk is left to the W." to: "Kurmuk"

pg 76 Changed "few Baggara “rakukas.”" to: "rakubas"

pg 83 Changed "khor is of greater dinensions" to: "dimensions"

pg 97 Changed "right bank of tae river Ba" to: "the"

pg 102 Changed "runs close under this hilll" to: "hill"

pg 119 Changed "Um Sedeika (Rest house)" to: "Sedeira"

pg 120 Changed "This is a Kurtan villlage" to: "village"

pg 126 Changed "passing Village Eilatun" to: "Eilafun"

pg 126 Changed "mosquitoes and sand fles" to: "flies"

pg 141 Changed "cross an open pleateau" to: "plateau"

pg 142 Changed "buidings on J. Sukunja" to: "buildings"

pg 145 Changed "25 to 30 feet drip" to: "deep"

pg 146 Changed "Beni Fadi village named Shallo" to: "Fadl"

pg 152 Changed "the hills crowne with many Nuba" to: "crowned"

pg 162 Changed "and poor water upply" to: "supply"

pg 167 Changed "probaby 100 years old" to: "probably"

pg 172 Changed "low hills on on right" to: "low hills on right"

pg 186 Changed "I flows out near Ambukol" to: "It flows out"

pg 187 Changed "Bayuda Weels" [Above J. Hawashawi] to: "Bayuda Wells"

pg 196 Changed "no detailed imformation" to: "information"

pg 198 Changed "reaching Azleklesan" to: "Azteklesan"

pg 216 Changed "Kkor Damu, 20 yards wide" to: "Khor"

pg 219 Changed "Bad here full of rocks" to: "Bed"

pg 220 "Khor Gulbis" and its corresponding Miles moved up one row
from "At 2 miles from [. . .]" to "Ten yards wide [. . .]".

pg 220 Changed "¼ mile before crosing khor" to: "crossing"

pg 221 Changed "good obtained in hkor" to: "khor"

pg 222 Changed "in tukls on the hilll" to: "hill"

pg 229-231 Several instances of ²⁄₈, ⁴⁄₈ and ⁶⁄₈ were changed
to ¼, ½ and ¾ respectively.

pg 229 Changed "Bato fordable here" to: "Baro"

pg 229 Changed "R. Baitick" to: "Baitiok"

pg 230 Changed "however they they will not be" to: "however
they will not be"

Minor changes in punctuation have been done silently.

Other spelling inconsistencies have been left unchanged.

Comments

The Anglo-Egyptian Sudan: a compendium prepared by officers of the Sudan government, Vol. 2 (of 2)Chapter XXXVI: Appendix: (routes Partly Outside the Sudan.) (5)

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