Chapter IV: (eastern Sudan.) (3)

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Roseires | — | — |Mamuria, about 50 feet above the
| | |river on one of the steep spurs,
| | |which form the escarpment between
| | |the general level of the country
| | |and the lower river bank. For the
| | |first 2 miles the road winds round
| | |these spurs close to the river.
| | |The road hilly. Then leaving the
| | |river it gets into flat country
| | |with thick thorn bush.
| | |
| 2¾ | 2¾ |Path leads to El Damazin, a small
| | |village on the river (not
| | |visited).
| | |
_Abu Zago_ | 2¾ | 5½ |Village lies to the east of the
| | |road and N. of the khor (not
| | |visited).
| | |
_Khor Abu | 1 | 6½ |A well defined channel 20 yards
Zagoli_ | | |wide, banks 10 feet high, and
| | |steep. Halting place for water 200
| | |yards S. of the khor. Water from
| | |the Nile about 1 mile. Cultivation
| | |at the mouth of the khor. Shelter
| | |tukls at halting place.
| | |
_El Kharaba_ | 3 | 9½ |Three ways lead to the village
| | |which lies E. of the road not
| | |visited. Recognised camping
| | |ground, much overgrown with trees
| | |and little clear space. No tukls,
| | |¼ mile to water. From here to
| | |about the 15th mile the river is
| | |inaccessible, country flat, road
| | |good. At 15 miles it approaches
| | |the river on a high bluff, and
| | |Dakhila can be seen. Thence road
| | |descends and would in the wet
| | |season be very swampy. Thick
| | |jungle.
| | |
_Dakhila_ | 8½ | 18 |Small village of about 30 tukls.
| | |Lies very low and has all the
| | |appearance of being feverish.
| | |
| | |Water supply in the dry season
| | |from a muddy pool in a dried up
| | |channel, bad.
| | |
| | |From Dakhila the road runs W.
| | |following the river, passing the
| | |spurs of J. Maba at about the 22nd
| | |mile, road hilly and stony. After
| | |passing Maba, country is more
| | |open.
| | |
Khor Abu Ge | 7 | 25 |Stony 100 yards wide, banks steep.
| | |
Khor Aiwani | ½ | 25½ |100 yards wide, thickly wooded,
| | |slopes easy.
| | |
_Khor Yabis_ | ½ | 26 |A well defined channel 20 yards
| | |wide, river within easy reach
| | |between Khor Aiwani and Khor
| | |Yabis.
| | |
Khor Yare | 1½ | 27½ |A well defined channel 10 yards
| | |wide.
| | |
_Abu Gemai_ | 1½ | 29 |Rest tukls on high bank commanding
| | |a fine view of the river. Very
| | |good camping ground for small
| | |party. Water close, but road to it
| | |steep. Village of Abu Gemai on
| | |opposite bank, considerable
| | |cultivation. J. Fazogli visible.
| | |
| | |After Abu Gemai the road leaves
| | |the river, and water is not
| | |obtainable for some way.
| | |
Khor Zarifa | 4 | 33 |Very stony, 25 yards wide, said to
| | |rise in J. Dimr, but more probably
| | |in J. Samina. Forms boundary
| | |between Fazogli and Roseires.
| | |
Khor Abu Gerin| 4½ | 37½ |15 yards wide, sandy. About 1
| | |mile, and 2 miles further on are
| | |two small khors and dom palms
| | |begin.
| | |
_Ardeiba_ | 3 | 40½ |Recognised halting place, but
| | |tukls burnt down. Water 200 yards
| | |distant. River narrows to about
| | |150 yards, river bank consisting
| | |of shingle cliffs. Village of
| | |Ardeiba opposite scattered tukls
| | |with little cultivation.
| | |
Khor El | 1½ | 42 |Wide valley ½ mile, well defined
Masella | | |channel in middle.
| | |
_Khor El | 2¼ | 44¼ |Road to Famaka goes straight on,
Ghana_ | | |that to Abu Shaneina turns down
| | |the bed of the khor and leads to
| | |the ferry. Very rough stony
| | |foreshore.
| | |
_Abu Shaneina | ¾ | 45 |One boat capable of taking horses.
Ferry_ | | |Crossing about 300 yards. Village
| | |consists of scattered tukls among
| | |cultivation. Starting place for
| | |most of the caravans to Beni
| | |Shangul and Fadassi. Gold coinage
| | |(native) obtainable, also sheep
| | |and dura. A few donkeys.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

27.—SENGA _viâ_ DURRABA TO UM EL RUG.

BY CAPTAIN H. F. S. AMERY, MARCH, 1903.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Mena | — | — |Opposite to Senga, on R. bank Blue
| | |Nile, Sheikh Adlan, descendant of
| | |Fung Sultans of Sennar Fungs and
| | |Hawazma. Broad well, defined
| | |track, good going.
| | |
_Lueisa_ (on | 15½ | 15½ |Sheikh Ali Wad Idris, El Hamada,
Dinder) | | |and some Ashraf. At Lueisa also
| | |lives Sheikh El Agab, Head Sheikh
| | |of Dinder.
| | |
| | |Track keeps away from river to cut
| | |off bends, direction about S.E.
| | |Cultivation near village.
| | |
Um Saba | 7½ | 23 |Jungle closes in on both sides
| | |track after Kakum.
| | |
Khamisa | 4½ | 27½ |Track well defined, soon after
| | |Khamisa enters bed of river, and
_Abu Hashim_ | 7½ | 35 |comes out again same side.
| | |Cultivation at villages, dura and
| | |semsem.
| | |
El Hagar | — | — |
| | |
_Murafa_ | 7½ | 42½ |Most of villages on Dinder are
| | |near pools, some have to dig for
| | |water in river bed.
| | |
Wad Bashush | 2½ | 45 |Some game seen, oribi, reedbuck,
| | |&c.
| | |
_Durraba_ | 7½ | 52½ |Last inhabited place on Dinder.
| | |
_Meshra | 8 | 60½ |Large pool.
Sherif_ | | |
| | |
„ _Rekeba_ | — | — |Path less clearly defined; black
| | |cotton soil, badly cracked;
„ _Abgir_ | 5½ | 66 |shadeless; tracks and droppings of
| | |elephants abundant from Duraba
| | |whole way up Dinder. After this
| | |see no more people on Dinder.
| | |
_Koka_ | — | — |
| | |
_El Laban_ | — | — |
| | |
_Refadik_ | 12½ | 78½ |All places from Durraba onwards
| | |are only water pools, but were
| | |mostly hellets in old government
| | |days. Water on Dinder excellent
| | |throughout, pools more frequent
| | |higher up river.
| | |
_Wad El Haj_ | 11 | 89½ |After Refadik country looks more
| | |interesting, and good deal of game
| | |seen, ariel plentiful, fresh
| | |elephant and buffalo tracks. From
| | |here a track made by game cuts
| | |across large bend of river for
| | |about 2 miles. The only means of
| | |progress for hamla after this is
| | |in bed of river. Sand heavy, but
| | |suits the camels well.
| | |
_Meshra Gazar_| 5 | 94½ |
| | |
_Khor Gelagu_ | 10½ | 105 |
| | |
„ Masawik | 1½ | 106½ |
| | |
Beit El Wahesh| — | — |
| | |
_El Dueim_ | 7 | 113½ |
| | |
_Semsir_ | 2½ | 116 |Name applies to district around.
| | |
_Um Bilbis_ | 13 | 129 |
| | |
_Um El Rug_ | 4½ | 133½ |In this neighbourhood game is
| | |plentiful, such as elephant,
| | |buffalo, roan, hartebeest, tiang,
| | |ariel reedbuck, ostrich, warthog,
| | |&c. There are also heglig, talh,
| | |kittr, hashab, sunt, kakamot and
| | |suba trees. Forests much damaged
| | |by jungle fires all along Dinder.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

28.—MOUTH OF KHOR GELAGU (DINDER) TO GALLABAT.

BY CAPTAIN H. F. S. AMERY, MARCH, 1903.

--------------+----------------------+--------------------------------
| Miles. |
+-------------+--------+
Place. | | Total | Description.
|Intermediate.| from |
| |Durraba.|
--------------+-------------+--------+--------------------------------
_Khor Gelagu_ | — | 53½ |A tributary on R. bank of
| | |Dinder, 53½ miles above Durraba.
| | |
| | |Track (made by game) keeps away
| | |from Gelagu on R. bank, going
_Farsh El | — | — |pretty good; woods (not dense)
Ghani_ | | |alternating with large open
| | |plains, covered with high grass,
„ „ _Sanei_ | — | — |called farshes. Ras Amer is a
| | |long shallow lake, the west end
_Maya Ras | 6 | 59½ |about 1 mile from Gelagu (which
Amer_ (west | | |winds very much), at this time
end of) | | |(March) 2 miles long E. and W.
| | |by 150 to 300 yards broad. East
| | |end about 2½ miles from Gelagu.
| | |Open plains; either end of lake
| | |swarming with game, water of
| | |lake very thick and slimy, with
| | |fishy taste owing to millions of
| | |pelicans, geese, &c. Gave
| | |several of our men sore throats.
| | |
Camp | 7½ | 67 |Strike N.N.E. for Rahad (camp on
| | |road), badly cracked cotton
| | |soil, yellow reed grass and
| | |sparsely scattered trees, but no
| | |obstacle to hamla marching in
| | |any direction across country,
| | |provided a couple of men go in
| | |front with axes to lop off
| | |branches.
| | |
_Warre_ | 10½ | 77½ |Strike Rahad at Warre, which
| | |like all places mentioned here
| | |on the Rahad, used to be
| | |flourishing hella in old
| | |government days, but now
| | |absolutely deserted, and nothing
| | |to show that human beings have
Wad Dam | 2½ | 80 |ever been there.
| | |
_Wad Shusha_ | 2½ | 82½ |River winds very much going
| | |alternately in every direction
| | |of compass, but doubtful if any
| | |time saved by marching through
| | |jungle on either bank-bed 50 to
| | |80 yards wide.
| | |
_Araki_ | 6 | 88½ |All these places are on good
| | |pools.
| | |
_Deleib Mugda_| 4 | 92½ | „ „ „
| | |
_El Ebeik_ | 4 | 96½ | „ „ „
| | |
_Wad Arud_ | 5 | 101½ | „ „ „
| | |
_Um Dakin_ | 2½ | 104 | „ „ „
| | |
| | |Bed of river begins to be rocky
| | |in places and going rough and
| | |bad for loaded camels; pools
| | |more numerous, not over 40 yards
| | |wide in most places.
| | |
_Mukleil_ | 5 | 109 |After here, better to march on
| | |R. bank, river bed stony.
| | |
_Meshra Abid_ | 12 | 121 |Soon after M. Abid leave river
| | |and strike N.E. for Gallabat,
| | |soon strike on to track which
| | |goes from Gallabat to Hawata
| | |made by government last year.
| | |This road was made chiefly to
| | |enable cattle owners to take
| | |their cattle down Rahad, but
| | |they all prefer to go _viâ_
| | |Gedaref because of the lions.
| | |The road is used to a small
| | |extent by honey seekers from
| | |Gallabat. Cotton soil badly
| | |cracked.
| | |
_Babikr_ | 28½ | 149½ |No water till Babikr-hella;
| | |consists of several small groups
| | |of huts, cultivation, dukhn,
| | |semsem, cotton, dura.
| | |Inhabitants Takruris, Fors,
| | |Gunjara, &c. Country begins to
| | |be more undulating, red
| | |sandstone, alternating with bad
| | |cotton soil till Gallabat, stony
| | |in parts, bad going for camels.
| | |
_Yunes_ | — | — |Village; well.
| | |
_Basunda_ | 6½ | 156 | „ „
| | |
Kurunkula | — | — |
| | |
_Wallak_ | 14 | 170 |Sheikh of Gallabat and of these
| | |villages—El Sheikh Sheraf
| | |Abdalla. Well.
| | |
_Khor Otruk_ | 9 | 179 |Water in pool in khor.
| | |
Gallabat | 5½ | 184½ |
--------------+-------------+--------+--------------------------------

29.—GALLABAT TO WAD MEDANI, _viâ_ RIVER RAHAD.[17]

BY CAPTAIN C. H. LEWIN, MARCH, 1902.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Gallabat | — | — |Route follows that to Gedaref as
| | |far as Khor Otruk.
| | |
_Khor Otruk_ | 6 | 6 |Road here diverges to W., crossing
| | |Khor Yabis. Water in holes in khor
Khor Yabis | ½ | 6½ |to right of track under large
| | |ardeib tree. Road proceeds W. up
| | |valley through some cultivation
| | |passing village of Sultan.
| | |
Sultan | ½ | 7 |Well in course of construction.
| | |Water not yet (March, 1902) found
| | |at 30 feet, but said to be near.
| | |
| | |Road winds on through forest, up
| | |valley, high wooded hills on
| | |either side, crosses spurs and
| | |khors. Owing to loose stones and
| | |steep gradients, camels can only
| | |do 2½ miles an hour.
| | |
Ras El Fil | 3 | 10 |Track passes over low pass close
| | |under this hill, which is highest
| | |point of N. ridge, and descends
| | |gradually to
| | |
_Wallak_ | 2½ | 12½ |Wallak, a scattered village of
| | |Kunjaras, one well 40 feet, fair
| | |water, 2 rakubas, about 5 acres of
| | |cotton, and fair amount of other
| | |cultivation. Road proceeds over
| | |more level and open country, red
| | |gravel soil, and rises to a neck
| | |just S. of Kabushi.
| | |
Jebel Kabushi | 1 | 13½ |A conical grass covered hill. Path
| | |descends sharply to water in
_Water_ | 1 | 14½ |hollow to right of track, but
| | |nearly empty by middle of March.
| | |
_Karnakala_ | ½ | 15 |Village of Kunjaras. About 12
| | |acres of cotton and considerable
| | |amount of other cultivation. Two
| | |wells in khor just under village,
| | |water at 6 feet good and
| | |plentiful. Rakuba by wells under
| | |ardeib tree. The Sheikh Ali Seru
| | |said he was a soldier with Gordon
| | |Pasha.
| | |
| | |Track passes through village,
| | |turning S. just outside for a
| | |short distance.
| | |
| | |Going not too good, stony, and as
| | |path is only used by donkeys, is
| | |narrow for camels, who stumble a
| | |good deal.
| | |
Khor Abu Jamfa| 3 | 18 |Open khor; small amount of water
| | |in holes.
| | |
_Kuka_ | 2 | 20 |Village of Kunjaras. Water comes
| | |out of rock at bottom of deep
| | |rocky khor, which is overhung by
| | |large tebeldi tree of about 10
| | |feet diameter. Road winds S. and
| | |then W. again, passing villages of
| | |Basunda and Yunis at about ½ mile
| | |interval. These draw their water
| | |from a deep rocky khor half way
| | |between Kuka and Basunda. Good
| | |rakubas at all of them.
| | |
_Babikr_ | 6 | 26 |Going improves as this village is
| | |reached. Road still winds through
| | |forest country. Very little water
| | |left in well. Good rakuba. Sheikh
| | |describes this as half-way between
| | |Rahad and Gallabat. Track winds to
| | |S.W. and going becomes very bad
| | |again. Cotton soil, which gives
| | |under camels as they go along.
| | |Track very indistinct in places.
| | |
Domajura | 9 | 35 |Road winds between 2 stony low
| | |hills of this name. On W. side a
| | |well dug in the rock said to have
| | |been made by Sheik Saleh Bey,
| | |formerly of Gallabat. No water
| | |now, and a bad smell emanates from
| | |it.
| | |
Hag Bakhit | 3 | 38 |Track passes over low rocky column
| | |of this name. One mile N.W. is
| | |ruined Deim of brother of Saleh
| | |Bey. It lies on top of hill named
| | |Zurga.
| | |
_Meshra Sirri_| 9 | 47 |Track gradually descends to River
or Abid (?) | | |Rahad passing a few stony
| | |hillocks. Bad going, over cotton
| | |soil all the way. Meshra 2 miles
| | |N. of steep rocky hill Jebel
| | |Surur.
| | |
| | |Good camping ground in zeriba. A
| | |certain number of nomad
| | |inhabitants who come down to fish
| | |appear to make this a halting
| | |place. Water clear, good, and pool
| | |deep. Swarms with fish and
| | |crocodile, and from tracks appear
| | |to be favourite watering place of
| | |much game, including elephant and
| | |lion.
| | |
| | |From Babikr there cannot be said
| | |to be any defined track. The way
| | |is shown by blazed trees and
| | |stumps of trees cut down by
| | |clearing party. The whole way
| | |practically is bad going, both for
| | |camels and donkeys, owing to
| | |rotten black cotton soil. Camels
| | |go at a slow walk only. From Kuka
| | |onwards the route is waterless,
| | |but there are plenty of likely
| | |looking places where water might
| | |be found if wells were dug.
| | |
| | |From Meshra Sirri, route runs
| | |roughly N.W. along right bank of
| | |Rahad, it is marked by blazed
| | |trees here and there. At times
| | |going very bad over cotton soil.
| | |Camels get along with difficulty
| | |at slow walk. Sometimes going is
| | |good, but only for short time.
| | |
_Meshra | 11¾ | 58¾ |Plenty of water in pool; good
Kakamut_ | | |shade; zeriba; banks very steep
| | |down to water and difficult for
| | |camels.
| | |
_Meshra Myat | 1½ | 60¼ |Track rises on to a broad low bank
Bringi_ | | |by riverside, which is evidently
| | |an island when river is in flood.
| | |
_Meshra Ghaba | 2¼ | 62½ |Zeriba, water ¼ mile up stream,
Susa_ | | |small amount, and very green.
| | |
_Bendego_ | 2¾ | 65¼ |Zeriba and meshra. Banks very
| | |steep down to water. Quarter mile
| | |further on the track passes group
| | |of 11 very large tebeldi trees,
| | |one of which has diameter 21 feet.
| | |
_Meshra | 6½ | 71¾ |Zeriba by large tebeldi tree,
tebeldi_ | | |water ¼ mile up stream, very steep
| | |bank and not much shade.
| | |
_Meshra | 3 | 74¾ |Sangafut, an island in stream when
Sangafut_ | | |river is in flood. Pool ¼ mile up
| | |stream. Banks steep down to pool.
| | |Good shade just above. Meshra not
| | |at all apparent from road. Zeriba
| | |can be seen from road, is built on
| | |the bank and is half way between
| | |water and island of Sangafut.
| | |Water plentiful.
| | |
| | |Between this and Ghaba Susa track
| | |passes across several shallow
| | |khors but no water in them.
| | |
_Meshra | 7½ | 82¼ |Half a mile from meshra, and
Deresa_ | | |zeriba track strikes river at spot
| | |where broad belt of long grass
| | |intervenes between it and river
| | |bed. Follows curve of river round
| | |on high ground to zeriba, which is
| | |at a spot on the curve where the
| | |river is running from N.E. to S.W.
| | |Very steep path down to water
| | |immediately to W. end of zeriba,
| | |which was impossible for camels,
| | |but one just possible ¼ mile E. of
| | |zeriba. Water plentiful in pool
| | |and good. From here on trees
| | |decrease in size and become less
| | |dense. Guide said this was
| | |formerly a large village and a
| | |battalion was stationed here,
| | |which was cut up by Abyssinians 35
| | |or 40 years ago. The place was
| | |destroyed by Dervishes. The town
| | |was ½ mile N.W. of meshra and
| | |zeriba. Several lions heard here.
| | |
_Wad Betul_ | 2½ | 84¾ |Meshra, no zeriba, road
| | |immediately above stream, and
| | |country much more open here. From
| | |here blazing of trees is
| | |discontinued, and direction has to
| | |be kept (1902) by compass and
| | |stream. Rate of progress cannot be
| | |reckoned at more than 2 miles per
| | |hour.
| | |
_Khor Semsem_ | 7½ | 92¼ |Broad shelving grass-grown khor
| | |running in direction from N.E. to
| | |S.W. runs into river here. Bad
| | |meshra just N.W. of it, little
| | |shade, and very steep banks. Water
| | |green. 1½ miles from Semsem the
| | |river bed widens and becomes
| | |muddy—until now it has always been
| | |sandy—very good grass grows on the
| | |part from which water has receded.
| | |
Island (name | 3 | 95¼ |River doubles back and runs nearly
unknown) | | |S.E. and flows round an island.
| | |Track follows several broad and
| | |very grassy and bushy khors which
| | |caused wide détours.
| | |
| 2¼ | 97½ |Good spot for camp immediately
| | |above a large pool. Banks steep
| | |and thickly wooded, though
| | |immediate site of camp clear.
| | |
| | |The island seems to come to an end
| | |about ¼ mile further down stream.
| | |From here the track becomes plain
| | |again, the tree felling and
| | |blazing is regular and
| | |systematical, and easily followed.
| | |Going improves and camels can
| | |occasionally trot. Country becomes
| | |more open and track crosses
| | |several shallow khors.
| | |
_Meshra | 6 | 103½ |Track strikes river at a broad re-
Abrakuba_ | | |entrant bend. Plentiful supply of
| | |water and gently shelving banks
| | |easy for any animals to water.
| | |Good camping and grazing ground by
| | |the river.
| | |
_Shammam_ | — | — |A small tukl village of Dinka
| | |colonists. Sheikh Dik Malek. Is
| | |situated to left of track on
| | |rising ground among trees above
| | |river. Dura cultivation shows its
| | |presence at some distance from the
| | |track, from which it is itself
| | |invisible. Poor supplies; a little
| | |dura was obtained after some
| | |difficulty. Water good and
| | |plentiful.
| | |
| | |From here track bends inland from
| | |river crossing the shallow khors
| | |of Wad Bikr and Malwia. The track
| | |is indistinct and hard to follow
| | |owing to clearing having been done
| | |in most erratic fashion. Camels
| | |have to proceed at a walk. After
| | |7½ miles track, strikes the river
| | |again, which is dry here, and is
| | |running round a large island,
| | |Geziret Fatna. Two miles further
| | |on comes
| | |
_Meshra | 9½ | 119 |A large shallow pool rapidly
Geziret Fatna_| | |drying up. Track runs along this
| | |pool for about 1 mile over rough
| | |going where the two branches of
| | |the river round Geziret Fatna re-
| | |unite and track strikes N. and
| | |then trends round to river again,
| | |striking it at Wad El Kashedi.
| | |
_Wad El | 2½ | 121½ |A good pool, but banks steep,
Kashedi_ | | |looks as if an old canal formerly
| | |ran into river from W. Jebel
| | |Mogadad appears in distance in E.
| | |direction. Going still bad. Cotton
| | |soil, but fewer trees.
| | |
| | |Track follows close to river bank,
| | |water occasionally in pools, but
| | |banks steep. Two miles from Hawata
| | |track improves and enters belt of
| | |trees through which it is well
| | |cleared. Some cultivation about in
| | |cleared patches.
| | |
Hawata | 7½ | 129 |Fair-sized tukl village of
| | |Hamadas. Fair supplies and good
| | |pool of water immediately beside
| | |village. Track from here improves
| | |greatly. It is well cleared and
| | |camels can trot. The journey from
| | |Gallabat to Hawata cut the feet of
| | |4 out of 5 camels so badly that
| | |they were unable to proceed
| | |further. Between Meshra Sirri and
| | |Hawata game very plentiful.
| | |Numerous tracks of elephants;
| | |lions were heard each night.
| | |Giraffe seen twice. Ariel
| | |frequently seen in enormous herds
| | |of over 100. North of Hawata no
| | |more lions or elephants, and ariel
| | |became scarce. I saw natives
| | |coursing gazelle, and they say
| | |they hunt a good deal.
| | |
_Girbu_ | 2 | 131 |From Hawata, track winds through
| | |trees and long grass to small tukl
| | |village on river bank with some
| | |scattered tukls further on.
| | |Country opens out into large grass
| | |plains dotted with bushes and
| | |clumps of trees.
| | |
_Nuwar_ | 8 | 139 |A small tukl village to left of
| | |track some way back from river.
| | |Jebel Beila at right angles to
| | |track, N.E.
| | |
_Wadi Nagami_ | 3 | 142 |A new tukl village of Hamadas
| | |rapidly springing up. Over 30
| | |tukls already built. People said
| | |to be returning from khors and
| | |jebels round. A few sheep, no
| | |camels.
| | |
_Mafasa_ | 1 | 143 |Another rapidly increasing village
| | |of Hamadas. Signs of old tukls
| | |shown. There are now over 30 new
| | |ones.[18] Sheep and oxen, but no
| | |camels. About ¼ mile from river. A
| | |little dura cultivated. From here,
| | |track passes through grass plains
| | |and trees for 3 miles, and then
| | |gets into thick bush country for
| | |another 3 miles, rising slowly the
| | |whole time till it suddenly
| | |emerges on top of cleared, broken,
_Abraham_ | 6 | 149 |and hillocky ground, from which it
| | |descends sharply into and crosses
| | |the river bed which is dry here.
| | |After crossing the river track
| | |turns S.W. following round S. edge
| | |of a dry shallow branch of the
| | |river, which is lined thickly on
| | |either bank by good-sized trees
| | |through which path winds and
| | |gradually works round to N.E.
| | |direction.
| | |
_Muttu_ | 5 | 154 |Meshra and various shifting tukl
| | |villages, some inhabited, some
| | |deserted. People appear to come
| | |here to build tukls before the
| | |rains begin, sow and reap dura on
| | |open spaces between the trees, and
| | |then move on. From here track is
| | |well defined though crossed by
| | |numerous other tracks. Trees,
| | |except on immediate river bank,
| | |cease.
| | |
_Karakeila_ | ¾ | 154¾ |Meshra, track to it branches off
| | |to right.
| | |
_Abbas_ | 4½ | 159¼ |Meshra, invisible from the path.
| | |Good pool and shade; from this,
| | |track resumes N.W. direction.
| | |
_Bir el Gamal_| 16¾ | 176 |Road forks here into an eye shape.
| | |Good meshra and distinct road down
| | |to it. It is under high trees
| | |which show on N. side of track on
| | |river bank about ¼ mile off.
| | |
Ghabat | 4½ | 180½ |Deserted tukl village of 40 huts.
| | |Jebel Arang is sighted bearing
| | |N.E.
| | |
| 5 | 185½ |A track turns off N.E. to Jebel
| | |Arang, and one bears to left
| | |running direct to Hafar. Main
| | |track leads on to Meshra Kheiari.
| | |
_Meshra | 6½ | 192 |A good meshra with fair shade.
Kheiari_ | | |Meshra El Gelma at 191½ mile found
| | |dry. Large numbers of camels about
| | |here grazing. From here, track to
| | |Wad Medani leaves Rahad and runs
| | |nearly due W. on leaving the
| | |river, trees and shrubs soon cease
| | |and cotton soil plain is crossed
| | |to Kheiari a deserted village of
| | |about 40 tukls; a deep well of
| | |about 6 feet diameter has been
| | |dug, but is now dry. Track
| | |continues W. over plain, ground
| | |rising slightly to Hafar.
| | |
_Hafeira_ | 4½ | 196½ |Large tukl village over 100 tukls
| | |all well built. Inhabited by
| | |different tribes: Jaalin (few)
| | |Hawazma, Rufaa. One well supplies
| | |whole village, 72 feet deep and
| | |about 6 feet wide, very good water
| | |in it. Said never to run dry. Few
| | |cattle and sheep and other
| | |supplies. Like all other places
| | |between this and Gedaref it was
| | |laid waste by Ahmed Fedil on his
| | |march to join the Khalifa.
| | |
| | |From Hafar track runs W. over
| | |cotton soil, is clearly marked.
| | |Clumps of trees and bushes in
| | |places.
| | |
Shebaga | 14 | 210½ |Small tukl village, few
| | |inhabitants.
| | |
_Alarebab_ | 9 | 219½ |Track strikes Blue Nile about 1
| | |mile N. of Alarebab, and opposite
Wad Medani | ½ | 220 |Wad Medani. Ferry across to left
| | |bank.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

30.—ITINERARY OF BLUE NILE—KHARTOUM TO FAZOGLI.

BY CAPTAIN H. F. S. AMERY, MARCH, 1903.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Khartoum | — | — |Up to Soba, cultivation good on
| | |both banks, though confined to a
| | |narrow strip—Sakias numerous.
| | |
Buri | 3 | 3 |L.
| | |
Kuku | 1½ | 4½ |R.
| | |
El Gereif | 2 | 6½ |Island here at low Nile.
| | |
Karkoj | 1¼ | 7¾ |R.
| | |
Um Dom Island | 2 | 9¾ |½ mile above the island are the
| | |hillas of Um Dom R. and El Hagirat
| | |L.
| | |
Soba | 4 | 13¾ |On the R. are the ruins of the
| | |capital of the once flourishing
| | |kingdom of Alwa; on the L. a small
| | |village. Soba is the name of the
| | |district on both sides of the
| | |river, and continues to Soba El
| | |Taib a village 3 miles further S.
| | |on the R. bank.
| | |
Butri | 4 | 17¾ |Two villages of this name L. the
| | |other is 1 mile further N. From
| | |here on for many miles the
| | |character of the country does not
| | |change. The eastern bank is
| | |covered with thick, low thorn
| | |jungle, while the western bank is
| | |open and sandy, very little scrub
| | |and half grass. There are patches
| | |of cultivation round the villages,
| | |and when the water falls, a narrow
| | |strip by the foreshore of the
| | |river is cultivated with heavy
| | |crops of dura, lubia, sesame,
| | |melons, and vegetables. Some of
| | |the islands also are under
| | |cultivation.
| | |
Eilafun | 3 | 20¾ |Wood station and village L., a
| | |track leads from here to Geili
| | |about 75 miles. About ¼ mile
| | |inland on the L. is the Government
| | |rest house of Sabil.
| | |
Dueikhla | 1½ | 22¼ |R.
| | |
Bageir | ¼ | 22½ |L.
| | |
Bageir Sharg | 2½ | 25 |R.
| | |
Bageir | 1 | 26 |L. Another small village of the
| | |same name.
| | |
El Shereig | 2 | 28 |R.
| | |
El Gedid | 1½ | 29½ |L. First of three villages of same
| | |name extending for 1½ miles S.
| | |Cultivation round the villages.
| | |
Awag El Darb | 3¼ | 32¾ |L. Between here and Masadia, a
| | |short distance inland on R. bank
| | |is the village of Sheikh El Obeid.
| | |
Masadia | 2½ | 35¼ |L.
| | |
El Nuba | 2½ | 37¾ |L. Largish village ½ mile from
| | |river.
| | |
Mahas Island, | ¾ | 38½ |
N. end | | |
| | |
Mahas, S. end | 2¼ | 40¾ |
| | |
Maid | 1 | 41¾ |Large village L. with Rest house
| | |on river bank and large mosque.
| | |
Alti | 1½ | 43¾ |L.
| | |
El Nur | 1 | 44¼ |L.
| | |
Um Magad | 3¾ | 48 |L.
| | |
El Tikena | 2 | 50 |
| | |
Bishagra | 1½ | 51½ |Villages L. and R. The one on L.
Island | | |large with three mosques. Former
| | |Dervish depôt and powder factory.
| | |
Fogur | 1 | 52½ |L. Small village.
| | |
Eidag | 1¼ | 53¾ |R.
| | |
Takela | ¾ | 54½ |L.
| | |
Sayal | ½ | 55 |R.
| | |
Wad El Turabi | 3 | 58 |L.
| | |
Wad Esheib | 1½ | 59½ |R.
| | |
Belula | ¾ | 60¼ |L.
Kasembar | | |
| | |
Kalkol | 1¾ | 64½ |L. Opposite S. end of island of
| | |same name.
| | |
_Kamlin_ | 2½ | 64½ |L. Head quarters of the Blue Nile
| | |Province, a large and growing
| | |village with market place, post
| | |and telegraph offices, and a good
| | |rest house in a grove of date
| | |palms at N. end of village.
| | |Inhabitants Jaalin and Danagla.
| | |More cultivation from here S.
| | |Country also much more wooded.
| | |Rest house.
| | |
Metemma | 1½ | 66 |R. 1 mile inland. The road on the
| | |R. bank to Rufaa goes inland _viâ_
| | |the villages of Metemma, Branko
| | |and Deim.
| | |
Hamed El Nil | 5½ | 71½ |
| | |
Branko | ½ | 72 |Some way inland R.
| | |
Um Degersi | ½ | 72½ |L. Two villages close together.
| | |
Abd El Magdi | 1 | 73½ |L.
| | |
Helalia | 2 | 75½ |R. Large village.
| | |
Abu El Ashr | 1½ | 77 |L. Helawin district commences
| | |here.
| | |
Bueida Island | 3½ | 100½ |
| | |
Hegeir | 3 | 103½ |R.
| | |
Wad Abu Furur | 3½ | 107 |L. Large village with Government
| | |Rest house. R. bank wooded.
| | |
_Hassa Hisa_ | 4¾ | 111¾ |L. Commonly called Hassai, largish
| | |village, the direction of the
| | |river after this is N.E. to Rufaa.
| | |Hassai and Rufaa being at the
| | |points of the curves of the S.
| | |known as the Rufaa bend. Rest
| | |house.
| | |
Rufa’a | 5 | 116¾ |R. Wood station. Former grain
| | |stores. Ali Wad Abu Sin, and Wakil
| | |el Amin Abu Sin, SS. Alla Hemrab
| | |L. Rufa’a is said to be the second
| | |largest town on the Blue Nile. It
| | |stands some little way back from
| | |the river, and is a fairly
| | |populous place. Its inhabitants
| | |are a branch of the Shukria tribe
| | |of Arabs, and call themselves
| | |Rufaa-Shukria. Good crops are
| | |raised on the foreshore and
| | |islands in the vicinity, and
| | |melons are cultivated, upon an
| | |extensive scale on the flats up-
| | |stream of the town. The river here
| | |is very wide and shallow, and
| | |navigation in summer is extremely
| | |difficult.
| | |
Amara | 2 | 118¾ |
| | |
Abid | 1 | 119¾ |L.
| | |
Ereibab | 4 | 122¼ |R. About 1½ miles inland.
| | |
Wad Belal | 4½ | 126¾ |L.
| | |
Fadassi | 4 | 130¾ |L. Large village and Rest house.
| | |Good garden on river bank
| | |belonging to Omda of village.
| | |
Fadassi Amrab | 2 | 132¾ |L.
| | |
Tayiba | 3 | 135¾ |L.
| | |
Hamid El Nil | 1½ | 137¼ |R.
| | |
Abu Haraz | 1½ | 138¾ |Starting place of caravan road to
| | |Gedaref.
| | |
Abu Ushur | ¾ | 139½ |R. Mouth of River Rahad. Water
| | |differs little from that of Blue
| | |Nile; rather more vegetable
| | |organic matter. Jungle begins both
| | |banks. This river, which rises in
| | |the N.W. slopes of the Abyssinian
| | |mountains, brings down a large
| | |volume of water when in flood. It
| | |enters the Nile at an angle of
| | |70°, and its bed in February was 3
| | |feet higher than the water surface
| | |of the Blue Nile at that time. The
| | |Rahad, with the exception of a few
| | |pools, is dry for many months of
| | |the year. Its banks at the
| | |junction are steep and high, quite
| | |39 feet over the bed, which has a
| | |width of 71 yards. The flood-marks
| | |show that the rise of the Rahad is
| | |from 15 to 19 feet in height. The
| | |Blue Nile at this junction forms
| | |an “S” curve, taking a sharp bend
| | |to the W., and again another to
| | |the E. Its width, is measured, 595
| | |yards. The banks of the Rahad
| | |River are covered with thick and
| | |dense jungle, as are both banks of
| | |the Blue Nile in this reach.
| | |Shortly before Wad Medani is
| | |reached, the W. bank becomes open
| | |again, but the forest on the E.
| | |bank is continuous.
| | |
Wad Medani | 5 | 144½ |L. Large and flourishing town,
| | |largest in Sudan after Omdurman.
| | |Head quarters of Sennar Province.
| | |Post and telegraph offices. A few
| | |European shops and good market.
| | |Civil population about 30,000.
| | |Soil limestone with sand and
| | |gravel—healthy; Mosque with high
| | |tower. Country S. of Wad Medani
| | |becomes thick jungle especially on
| | |E. bank.
| | |
| | |From Wad Medani the shortest road
| | |to Sennar leaves the river and
| | |goes inland by Sariba, Wad Shenan,
| | |&c., meeting the river again at
| | |Danagila.
| | |
Goz El Fil | 5 | 149½ |On island.
| | |
Ereibab | 1 | 150½ |
| | |
Kurdugeili | 5 | 155½ |
| | |
Ganneb | 6½ | 162 |L. About 1¼ miles from R. bank is
| | |Shabarga, the nearest point to R.
| | |Rahad at H. Sherif Yakub; about 7
| | |miles across.
| | |
Bagadi | 2 | 164 |L. Large village.
| | |
Abd El Karim | 6½ | 170½ |R.
| | |
_H. Sherif | 1¼ | 171¾ |L. Rest house.
Desis Yusef_ | | |
| | |
Doliba | 1¾ | 173½ |L.
| | |
El Beriab | 4½ | 178 |L. Large village on river bank in
| | |open ground. Supplies plentiful.
| | |
Mouth of River| 2 | 180 |Larger and more important river
Dinder | | |than Rahad. Breadth at mouth 120
| | |yards (_see_ page 114, Vol. I).
| | |
Hamed | 6 | 186 |L. Three miles inland is the large
| | |village of Shukaba.
| | |
Abu Sogra | 6¾ | 192¾ |L.
| | |
_Danagila_ | 5½ | 198¼ |L. Distant from Wad Medani by
| | |direct road 31½ miles. Rest house.
| | |
Santobar | 2 | 200¼ |L.
| | |
Banat | 2 | 202¼ |L.
| | |
Barsi El Fadl | 2¼ | 204½ |R.
| | |
Wad El Dai | 3 | 207½ |L.
| | |
Wad El Haddad | ½ | 208 |L.
| | |
_Wad El Abbas_| 6½ | 214½ |R. Rest house.
| | |
_Meshra El | 5 | 219½ |L. Rest house.
Hagirat_ | | |
| | |
Habbania | 1 | 220½ |L.
| | |
Shambata | 5 | 225½ |R.
| | |
Deim El | 5½ | 231 |L.
Mashaikh | | |
| | |
Sharif | 1½ | 232½ |R.
| | |
Sennar | 2½ | 235 |L. Now in ruins and deserted, old
| | |mosque with high tower still
| | |standing. _Vide_ Vol. I. Rest
| | |house at Kabush.
| | |
Abu Geili | — | — |
| | |
Kassab El Amin| 9 | 244 |R. Opposite large island.
| | |
_Shekh Talha_ | 6½ | 250½ |R. Rest house.
| | |
Ereidiba | 2 | 252½ |R.
| | |
Ereidiba | 2½ | 255 |L. About 2 miles inland—large
| | |village.
| | |
_Abdin_ | 4 | 259 |L. Rest house.
| | |
Abu Shoka | 3 | 262 |
| | |
Dakhla Shellal| 7 | 269 |L.
| | |
Rammash | 8 | 277 |L.
| | |
Mena Yusef | 6 | 283 |R.
| | |
Wad El Ghazali| 2 | 285 |L.
| | |
_Senga_ | 2 | 287 |L. Headquarters of a District and
| | |Detachment of Regular Troops here.
| | |Rest house.
| | |
Mena | 1 | 288 |R. People: Fungs and Hawazma; the
| | |sheikh Adlan is the descendant of
| | |the Fung sultans of Sennar. From
| | |here a direct road goes to Lueisa
| | |on the R. Dinder, distance about
| | |16 miles.
| | |
El Gazair | 6½ | 294½ |R.
| | |
Brodras | 7½ | 302 |R.
| | |
_Karkoj_ | 5 | 307 |R. Rest house. A large straggling
| | |village, surrounded by bush and
| | |tall grass. It is close to the
| | |river, the banks of which are
| | |steep. Inhabitants very poor and
| | |of various tribes:—Kongeri,
| | |Ashraf, Moghrabi, Kamatir, Jaalin
| | |and Agalin. Village on high
| | |ground, with small khors at
| | |intervals running into the river.
| | |Soil, limestone mixed with sand
| | |and alluvium—subsoil 9 to 10 feet
| | |from surface. Three small springs
| | |of clear water appear at south end
| | |of village, and reach the surface
| | |of the steep bank 9 feet from the
| | |top. On the L. bank in Nov. there
| | |is a large stagnant lagoon, which
| | |probably increases the
| | |unhealthiness of the site.
| | |
| | |One hundred and ten hours by steam
| | |from Khartoum.
| | |
| | |Karkoj used to be an important
| | |trading centre in the old days for
| | |gum arabic, tamarinds, cattle,
| | |cotton, coffee (from Abyssinia),
| | |vegetables, &c. This used to be
| | |the last place where one could lay
| | |in stores for further travel.
| | |
| | |The river here is at high Nile 470
| | |yards broad, average depth 23
| | |feet, current 5 miles per hour; at
| | |low Nile the figures are 330
| | |yards, 8 feet, and 1¼ miles
| | |respectively.
| | |
| | |Surroundings bare. Woods, chiefly
| | |acacia, &c., begin at some
| | |distance off.
| | |
| | |(Marno took 25 days in a nugger
| | |from Khartoum to this point, in
| | |February.)
| | |
| | |The Upper Sennar negro race, the
| | |Hameg, now begin to populate both
| | |banks; a dirty, indolent race.
| | |
| | |From Karkoj upwards both banks are
| | |highly cultivated and fertile, but
| | |only on the narrow strip which is
| | |liable to inundation at flood
| | |time. Camels become gradually
| | |replaced by donkeys and oxen. Too
| | |damp for horses; many mosquitos
| | |and poisonous flies (_serút_).
| | |Much rough cloth woven.
| | |
| | |Track on R. bank lies through
| | |cultivation and occasional thick
| | |woods.
| | |
_Seiru_ | 3 | 310 |L. Rest house.
| | |
Zumorka | 6 | 316 |R.
| | |
Lanni | 1 | 317 |L.
| | |
_Abu Tiga_ | 10½ | 327½ |R. On main track from Karkoj to
| | |Roseires. Rest house.
| | |
Barankwa | ½ | 328 |L. Swarms of birds in autumn.
| | |Water channel 700 yards.
| | |
_Abu Naama_ | 1½ | 329½ |L. Rather less vegetation; soil
| | |contains much iron peroxide.
| | |Reported immune from fever. Rest
| | |house.
| | |
Rumeila | 3 | 332½ |L.
| | |
Tangaru | 1½ | 334 |L. El Lakandi R.
| | |
_Regeiba_ | 6 | 340 |L. Rest house.
| | |
_Bunzoga_ | 8½ | 348½ |R. Boat building yard (?). Two
| | |miles before this the Khor El
| | |Malwai comes on L., and a track
| | |goes from there to J. Gule. Rest
| | |house.
| | |
H. Sherif | 24 | 372½ |R. Well-known point on river.
Ahmed | | |Cultivation considerable.
| | |
_Bados_ | 11 | 383½ |R. Rest house.
| | |
_El Gereif_ | 7 | 390½ |R. Village up a back-water. Broad
| | |conspicuous belt of dom palms
| | |begins, and continues along ridge
| | |to Roseires. Rest house.
| | |
El Karori | 2½ | 393 |R. On L. is mouth of Khor Dunia.
| | |
Abu Ramad | 9 | 402 |L.
| | |
_Roseires_[19]| 3 | 405 |R. End of telegraph. Headquarters
| | |of a District and residence of
| | |British Inspector; small garrison,
| | |post and telegraph offices. Old
| | |Roseires lies 3 miles further
| | |north. Hilly ground, thick dom
| | |palms along banks. Mimosa woods to
| | |the E. Plenty of game.
| | |Obstructions in the river begin
| | |some miles before here, and this
| | |is the limit of navigation for
| | |steamers or boats. About 2 miles
| | |south begin the Roseires
| | |cataracts. Malarial fever prevails
| | |during October and November. The
| | |soil here is composed of alluvium
| | |overlying granite, in which the
| | |quartz and mica are small-grained,
| | |evenly distributed throughout,
| | |with a minimum of felspar. Less
| | |frequently the blocks are of large
| | |grained quartz, combined with
| | |felspar. The granite has been
| | |extensively disintegrated.
| | |
_Abu Zoghali_ | 8 | 413 |R. Mouth of khor of same name.
| | |Rest house.
| | |
_El Dakhla_ | 11 | 424 |R. Best camping ground is where
| | |hospital was established after
| | |fight with Ahmed Fedil, 25th
| | |December, 1898. The village is
| | |over a mile from the river inland.
| | |Village Iwan marked on map is
| | |deserted. Latter part of road is
| | |thick jungle, and several deep
| | |khors intersect the path. Rest
| | |house.
| | |
_Abu Gemai_ | 12½ | 436½ |L. Abu Gemai, village on W. bank,
| | |about 20 people. Rest house.
| | |Sheikh el Imam Ramadan. Open road
| | |the greater part of the way, but
| | |there are several deep khors
| | |bounded by thick jungle. In 11th
| | |mile you come to watering place,
| | |Ardeiba.
| | |
Ardeiba | 11 | 447½ |R. Watering place.
| | |
_Abu Sheneina_| 3½ | 451 |L. Abu Sheneina, a village on W.
| | |bank, about 200 people; Sheikh Abd
| | |el Wahid Abu Shenein. Rest house.
| | |
Famaka | 9 | 460 |R. The latter part of road is very
| | |rough indeed, going over shoulder
| | |of J. Fazogli; very steep and
| | |rocky about 2 to 3 miles.
| | |
Fazogli | 1 | 461 |L. Easy path.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

[Footnote 10: No water here, January, 1901.]

[Footnote 11: There is now (1904) a colony of Baggara Arabs who were sent to this district after the fall of Omdurman (1893).]

[Footnote 12: This road has recently been straightened and improved.]

[Footnote 13: Not the same as Durraba on the Dinder.]

[Footnote 14: This report is on the old route. The new route at times follows the old one and at times the telegraph line, but the watering places are the same on both routes.]

[Footnote 15: On the 28th March, 1902, there were only a few inches of water in the well, and it took an hour to water 13 camels, using 2 girbas.—(Bonham-Carter).]

[Footnote 16: Uninhabited in March, 1902 (Bonham-Carter).]

[Footnote 17: Some of the names in this report will probably be unknown to many guides.]

[Footnote 18: Mafasa has rapidly developed, and now (1904) is about to be made the Head-Quarters of a District.]