The Anglo-Egyptian Sudan: a compendium prepared by officers of the Sudan government, Vol. 2 (of 2)

Chapter XXXII: Appendix: (routes Partly Outside the Sudan.) (1)

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122.—THE ARBAÏN ROAD.

(_Compiled by the Editor._)

The “forty days” road leads S.S.W. across the desert from Assiut, in Upper Egypt, _viâ_ the oases of Kharga, Beris, Sheb, Selima, Lagia, and Bir El Sultan to El Fasher capital of Darfur. It was formerly in considerable use for bringing slave caravans, &c., from the Sudan, and is still used in parts to a limited extent by natron caravans, occasional smugglers, and others. It is, however, now practically deserted.

In the summer of 1884 a reconnaissance was made by Lt.-Col. Colvile and Lieut. Stuart-Wortley from Assiut to Lagia, in order to find out whether the forces of the Mahdi could penetrate into Egypt by this road. The result of the patrol was satisfactory, and demonstrated that, owing to the paucity of water on the road, it would be quite impossible for a force of any size to traverse it.

The total length of the Darb El Arbaïn, from Assiut to El Fasher, is certainly not less than one thousand (1,000) miles. To cover this stretch in forty days would appear to necessitate particularly excellent camels, but the following is the normal time taken, according to native report:—

-------------------------+---------+-------+-------------
Place. |Marching | Rest |Total No. of
| Days. | Days. | Days.
-------------------------+---------+-------+-------------
Assiut | — | — | —
| | |
El Kharga | 4 | 1 | 5
| | |
Beris | 1½ | 1 | 2½
| | |
El Murra | 3 | — | 3
| | |
El Kassaba | 1½ | 1 | 2½
| | |
Sheb | 1 | 1 | 2
| | |
Selima | 2 | 2 | 4
| | |
El Lagia | 4 | 1 | 5
| | |
Natron Wells, Bir Sultan | 5 | 1 | 6
| | |
J. Anka or Meidob | 7 | — | 7
| | |
El Fasher | 3 | — | 3
+---------+-------+-------------
Total | 32 | 8 | 40
-------------------------+---------+-------+-------------

A day’s journey in summer lasts from El Asr (two hours before sunset) till one hour after sunrise; and in winter from sunrise till three hours after sunset.

DESCRIPTION.

The only points south of Kharga which have been astronomically fixed in modern times are Kassaba and Sheb (Talbot, 1903), and therefore the distances between the main points given below must be considered more or less approximate. The road is hardly defined at all throughout its length, and variations occur at different points. A road also joins the Arbaïn from Mut (Dakhla Oasis) at Terfawi (five days).

On no account should an intending traveller move without reliable guides, who may usually be obtained, or heard of, at Assiut.

(_a._)—ASSIUT, _viâ_ KHARGA, TO BERIS AND MAKS.

(“Kharga Oasis: its topography and Geology,” by John Ball, 1899,
Public Works Department, Cairo, pp. 20, 44-60, &c.; Captain Lyons,
R.E., February, 1894, &c.)

(_b._)—MAKS, _viâ_ MURRA, KASSABA AND SHEB, TO SELIMA.

(Lieut.-Col. Colvile, July, 1884; Captain Lyons, February, 1894;
Officers Egyptian Army, Spring of 1894, &c.)

(_c._)—SELIMA TO LAGIA.

(Lieut. Stuart Wortley, July, 1884; Captain H. Hodgson, 1901,
1903, &c.)

(_d._) LAGIA, _viâ_ BIR SULTAN, TO EL FASHER.

Captain H. Hodgson, Browne, and Natives.

Very little is known of this, the southern half of the Arbaïn road, and no European (since Browne, 1793, who left no record of any value) seems ever to have traversed it south of Bir Sultan.

From Lagia to Bir Sultan is 5[38] days’ going over easy country.

Bir Sultan, otherwise known as Wadi Natrun (the Natron Valley), Bir el Melha, or Bir Zaghawa, lies in the centre of a plain, bounded by hills to the N.W., N., and E. Three or four pans of good water; ground below the sand being white clay. A little N.W. lie the natron diggings, the natron being in a seam 2 inches deep, a few inches below the sandy surface. One and a half miles E. of the natron is J. Kashaf. Plenty of scrub and grazing. At Melani, under the eastern slope, the soil is quite damp.

Bir Sultan lies 10 days due W. of Old Dongola.

Zaghawa, which is marked on some maps as a definite place, is the name of the district inhabited by the nomad Arab tribe of that name. It is full of khors and wells, and is stated to be 4 days to S.W. of Bir Sultan. There is a little-used track from Lagia which passes through Zaghawa district and proceeds towards El Fasher, but it is not the Arbaïn Road. The Zaghawa people often come to the Bir Sultan.

From Bir Sultan to El Fasher the accounts of the road are contradictory. One account states that it is 10 days hard travelling, without water on the road, and that camels have to be specially trained for the journey. Other accounts say that from Bir Sultan to J. Meidob,[39] or to Bir Maharia (water at either place), the journey takes 4 to 5 days; on to Toma, in the midst of a cultivated populous district, 3 days; and on to El Fasher 1 day more. Another road appears to lead _viâ_ Anka, 7 days from Fasher, and is said to take 15 days altogether; this is the one said to be generally used.

(Browne, in 1793, went from Bir El Melha (Sultan), _viâ_ Medwa (?), S.W. to Wadi Mazruk and then S.E. to Kobe, but left a very meagre description of the actual journey.)

RECAPITULATION, showing approximate distances and days’ journey.

--------------------------+-------+---------
Place. | Miles.| Days.
--------------------------+-------+---------
Assiut | — | —
| |
Kharga | 126| 5
| |
Bulak | 15| ½
| |
Beris | 38| 1½
| |
Maks | 9| }
| | } 3
Bir Murra | 78| }
| |
Kassaba | 67| 2½
| |
Sheb | 25| 1
| |
Selima | 82| 3
| |
Lagia | 140| 5
| |
Bir Sultan | 157| 6
| |
J. Meidob (J. Anka 270) | 190| 7
| |
El Fasher (El Fasher 110) | 140| 5½
+-------+---------
| 1,067| 40
--------------------------+-------+---------

123.—ASWAN TO DERAHEIB.

COMPILED FROM A REPORT BY MR. JENNINGS-BRAMLY (1902).

_N.B.—Distances only approximate, and may be underestimated._

124.—KASSALA TO MASSAUA.

BY LIEUTENANT H. H. S. MORANT (1898); COMPLETED WITH MATERIAL TAKEN
FROM REPORTS BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT (1900) AND MR. F. B. HOHLER
(1901).

[Sidenote: General Description. The road.]

The general direction of Massaua from Kassala is almost due E. From Sabderat to Keren the Italians have cleared a roadway about 50 feet in width, from which most of the stones and all vegetation, except an occasional large baobab tree, have been cleared. It is so clearly marked that a stranger could march by it even on a dark night. The only point of any difficulty is the low saddle at Bisha, where there was still room for a good deal of work (1900). In its long straight lines it reminds one strongly of the old Roman roads; it crosses ravines and water-courses at whatever angle it happens to strike them, but at many of the steeper ascents and descents narrow ramps have been cut. In several places along it the Italians have made new masonry wells.

The accompanying road report was made before the construction of this newly cleared road—which from Sabderat to Daura Obel passes N. of the old route, _viâ_ Algeden and Eladal—and there is no detailed information at hand as to the water supply along that portion of the route, though there is said to be no difficulty in this respect for the ordinary traveller.

From Keren to Asmara, and thence after many zig-zags to Saati, there is an excellent driving road about 14 feet wide, with the exception of a length of about 6 miles before reaching Azteklezan, which had not (April, 1900) been completed to the full width, but was then practicable for wheeled vehicles. Throughout the length of this metalled road the gradients are occasionally of necessity rather steep; the kilometers are marked throughout.

[Sidenote: Country.]

From Kassala to Keren the general character of the country strongly resembles much of that between Kassala and Suakin, and consists as a rule of level waterless plains of firm soil, at times sandy or gravelly, covered with fine short grass and scattered bushes of the acacia tribe, and intersected here and there by shallow sandy khors, which during the rainy season carry off the drainage from the rocky volcanic hills and granite koppies, which are so characteristic of this particular part of Africa.

From Keren to Massaua the character of the country entirely changes and the waterless plains and thorny acacias of the Kassala-Keren route are replaced by running streams and precipitous mountains, overgrown with euphorbia and wild olives, both on the ascent to the Asmara plateau, as well as in the descent to the maritime plain of Massaua.

[Sidenote: Transport animals.]

For the entire journey mules are most suitable, but as far as Keren camels answer admirably. From Keren to Massaua, _viâ_ Asmara, wheeled vehicles, mules or horses. If the direct desert route from Keren to Massaua be taken, camels are desirable, if not indispensable.

[Sidenote: Supplies.]

Milk, goats, cattle, &c., are found, as elsewhere in the Sudan, throughout the route.

There are occasional small canteens at intervals, and fair stores at Keren, and some good shops at Asmara and Massaua, where most ordinary requirements are obtainable.

[Sidenote: Water.]

If desired to move a force larger than a company along this route, enquiries as to state of water supply should be made, as it varies considerably according to the time of year.

[Sidenote: Inhabitants.]

Speaking generally, the inhabitants between Kassala-Keren are Beni-Amer; after that a bastard type of Abyssinian, &c.

[Sidenote: Climate.]

The climate along this route is on the whole good. Between Kassala-Keren and Ginda-Massaua it is decidedly hot in March, April, and May—probably in other months also. These are also the more feverish portions of the route, though probably no part of it is so unhealthy as Kassala. Between the sea and Agordat there occur in April what the Italians call the “little rains,” which mean very heavy thunder-storms; these cease before the end of the month, and the rainy season proper begins towards the end of May.

The climate on the Asmara plateau is said to be delightful, though perhaps the rains are excessive.

[Sidenote: Game.]

There is little or no game along this route, except between Kassala and Keren, where ariel, gazelle, dig-dig, and guinea fowl may be met with.

ROUTE (JANUARY TO MARCH).

125.—TAKARASHORIT OR AMBARAB ON THE KHOR GASH _viâ_ SOGADA AND
KHOR MAIETIB TO UMBREGA ON THE RIVER SETIT.

BY CAPTAIN H. H. S. MORANT, MARCH, 1900.

[Sidenote: General remarks.]

From Ambarab to Sogada the road is good enough for camels, and is kept open by frequent small caravans. There was also said to be a route from Todluk to Sogada, which was however described as “bad,” probably hilly.

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The Anglo-Egyptian Sudan: a compendium prepared by officers of the Sudan government, Vol. 2 (of 2)Chapter XXXII: Appendix: (routes Partly Outside the Sudan.) (1)

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