Chapter VIII: (kordofan) (4)

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Keraia_ (J. | — | — |Leaving the wells at the bottom of
Tagale) | | |the hill the road turns south
| | |along the foot of the hills,
| | |crossing many small khors flowing
| | |westwards. Much dura cultivation
| | |seen near.
| | |
_Khor_ | 6 | 6 |A large khor, 50 yards wide,
| | |coming out of the hills and
| | |turning north-east. A mile up this
| | |khor are several good wells.
| | |Watered 250 camels there.
| | |
| | |The road now enters a narrow
| | |valley; thick jungle for 3 miles,
| | |and then ascends a steep hill.
| | |Camels have to be led. Hill
| | |terraced for cultivation; now
| | |deserted (1900); signs of
| | |elephant. Ground stony in places.
| | |Many khors, but not difficult to
| | |cross. High trees shut out all
| | |view. Nine miles from the khor
| | |descends a hill, and the road
| | |crosses a series of ridges and
| | |khors. Much bush.
| | |
Khor El Fedala| 13 | 19 |A deep khor. Camel corps had to
| | |dismount. Ridges and khor
| | |continue, but track improves.
| | |
_Mernia_ | 6 | 25 |Ruined village. Two wells, good
| | |water. Jebel of same name near.
| | |Road passes between J. Mernia and
| | |J. Abu Shok on to a level plain.
| | |J. Rashad seen due west.
| | |
_Rashad_ | 6 | 31 |Large Nuba village in a valley;
| | |both ends closed by strong
| | |sangars. Water quite near the
| | |surface in January, 1900, but
| | |dirty; watered 200 camels. In
| | |February, 1902, water was very
| | |foul. Good shade and grazing. Road
| | |turns south; rocky in places.
| | |
_J. Tendik_ | 15 | 46 |Head-quarters of District. Nubas.
| | |Well at foot of hill, road to east
| | |of jebel. Fair track.
| | |
J. Turum | 9½ | 55½ |Track crosses jebel; very bad
| | |going. Well. Nubas and Kenana
| | |Arabs. Fair going. Four or five
| | |miles on a large forest of deleib
| | |palms is entered and continues to
| | |Gurun.
| | |
_J. Gurun_ | 20 | 75½ |Well and village of Kenana Arabs.
| | |Track passes by many disused
| | |wells. Very stony in places.
| | |
Khor Wad el | 25 | 100½ |Flows south-east. Good track to
Hileisa | | |village north-west of J. Gedir,
| | |leaving J. Girada, inhabited by
| | |Kenana Arabs, to the east. Then
| | |very bad track to Mek Bosh’s
| | |village, south of J. Gedir. Two
| | |wells.
| | |
_J. Gedir_ | 26 | 126½ |Village protected by sangars.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

From Rashad to J. Gedir there is nowhere enough water for 200 camels.

100.—KAKA (KARWA) TO J. GEDIR.

BY COLONEL B. MAHON BEY, D.S.O., 8TH HUSSARS, OCTOBER, 1899.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Karwa_ | — | — |Site of camp on left bank White
| | |Nile just S. of Kaka. Good camping
| | |ground S.E. of village.
| | |
| | |The track leaves the river and
| | |runs practically W.N.W., but winds
| | |greatly through trees, bush,
| | |scrub, and high grass, which
| | |requires clearing for camel
| | |transport or guns.
| | |
| 6½ | 6½ |Track continues W.N.W. over a very
| | |extensive shadeless plain, covered
| | |with grass 3½ to 5 feet high, but
| | |not thick. Until beaten down or
| | |burnt, this grass makes marching
| | |difficult for infantry.
| | |
Domat, or | 8 | 14½ |There has been a lot of water at
Domaia, or El | | |Domat, but it is now (Oct.)
Zeif | | |practically dried up.
| | |
| | |At Domat there are two or three
| | |groups of dom palms, which show up
| | |well and can be seen for a long
| | |distance. From here the hills of
| | |Kau and Niaro can be seen bearing
| | |about 275° magnetic.
| | |
| | |From Domat, for the next 6¾ miles,
| | |there is no track, but, if from
| | |the largest group of dom palms on
| | |left of track you march due W.
| | |magnetic after going about 2
| | |miles, a thick clump of dark green
| | |bush is seen on the skyline at
| | |about 3½ miles distant, and on the
| | |same bearing. A few degrees to the
| | |right of the clump, the hill of
| | |Fungor can be seen from the same
| | |point.
| | |
Mohabia or | 5¾ | 20¼ |Beyond Mohabia, the above-
Hobobia | | |mentioned clump of bush, J. Fungor
| | |cannot be seen again until you
| | |arrive within about 2 miles from
| | |it, except from one point, viz.:
| | |Sahab.
| | |
| | |From Domat to the commencement of
| | |the forest a plain is crossed
| | |covered with grass from 3 to 5
| | |feet high. From Mohabia on, the
| | |track is again visible through
| | |grass, as before.
| | |
| | |At 22¾ miles the edge of the
| | |forest is reached. Track winds
| | |through forest and undergrowth,
| | |the latter not very thick. Timber
| | |much injured by fire. No good
| | |shade.
| | |
Sahab | 4½ | 24¾ |There was water till recently
| | |here; now (Oct.) dried up. J.
| | |Fungor visible bearing 275°
| | |magnetic.
| | |
| | |Track through forest as before.
| | |
_Safa, or | 8¾ | 33½ |Fine trees giving excellent shade
Sufa_ | | |at Safa. Two pools of water in
| | |sandstone rocks; one is 27 yards
| | |long by 16 yards wide, and 9
| | |inches deep, the other, circular,
| | |20 yards in diameter, and 9 inches
| | |deep. If the water remains as at
| | |present, enough to water all our
| | |animals.
| | |
| | |Path continues distinctly marked
| | |and through forest without much
| | |undergrowth except where one or
| | |two grassy khors are crossed. Very
| | |good ground for marching.
| | |
| | |Within 1 mile of Fungor, country
| | |has been cleared for cultivation,
| | |and there is some dura and high
| | |grass.
| | |
_J. Fungor_ | 12 | 45½ |Very good camping ground N.E. of
| | |the centre hill and close to the
| | |water.
| | |
| | |Several large tanks of good water
| | |were found besides several smaller
| | |ones of still better water amongst
| | |the rocks on the hill side. With
| | |the assistance of a heavy
| | |thunderstorm the water supply was
| | |ample for two battalions, 500
| | |cavalry, and some Camel Corps and
| | |transport for 3 or 4 days in
| | |October, 1899. In fact no
| | |impression was made on it.
| | |
| | |The village is situated on the E.
| | |side of the central hill, which is
| | |about 350 feet high. The hill is
| | |very steep and difficult to ascend
| | |with boots. The inhabitants are
| | |almost all Nubas. Mek’s name
| | |Khalil. There are also some Aulad
| | |Hameid under Sheikh Idris.
| | |
| | |For the first 2 miles the path
| | |winds through high grass and very
| | |thick bush, crossing one small
| | |khor, containing water from
| | |previous night’s rain. The bush is
| | |of low sunt, and was evidently
| | |once a clearing.
| | |
| 2 | 47½ |The path passes to the right of
| | |some low rocky hills, after which
| | |the forest opens out, and the
| | |trees, chiefly heglig and acacia,
| | |are bigger. The soil is sandy,
| | |grass very low, and little
| | |undergrowth.
| | |
| 2½ | 50 |At about 4½ miles the track is
| | |opposite the S.E. end of the Kau
| | |range, which is a ½ mile on the
| | |right. Country fairly open; going
| | |very good.
| | |
_Kau_ | 2½ | 52½ |The village of Kau is on the W.
| | |slope of J. Kau. It contains about
| | |500 inhabitants. Nubawi blacks;
| | |neither men nor women are clothed.
| | |Most of the houses are built high
| | |up amongst the rocks. Water
| | |obtainable from crevices on the
| | |rocky hillside. A good many dom
| | |palms near the village. A space of
| | |about 10 feddans to W. of hill was
| | |formerly cleared, but is now
| | |overgrown with small dom palms,
| | |about 4 feet high. After leaving
| | |Kau, the track winds through open
| | |forest, the trees improve in size,
| | |and more tropical plants are seen.
| | |Large numbers of bamboos, of
| | |apparently very good quality, grow
| | |in clusters along the small khors.
| | |Soil light and sandy.
| | |
| 5¾ | 58¼ |Nearly 6 miles from Kau the soil
| | |becomes heavy clay, and the grass
| | |is higher. The path winds a good
| | |deal, and is full of holes caused
| | |by subsidence after rain. It would
| | |be necessary to clear a track for
| | |guns or transport for the next 1¼
| | |miles, after which the path
| | |improves and the going is sounder.
| | |
_Shag el | 3¼ | 61½ |Here there are two large rocks;
Hagar_ | | |the higher, about 50 feet in
| | |height, commands a good view; the
| | |lower, about 12 feet high,
| | |contains a large supply of water
| | |in four large and several small
| | |natural tanks, three of these are
| | |each about 60 feet long and 6 feet
| | |to 10 feet wide, and vary in depth
| | |from 2 feet to 4 feet. The fourth
| | |is 150 feet long and 9 feet wide,
| | |and from 4 feet to 6 feet deep.
| | |The water is excellent; 550 men
| | |and 420 horses were watered twice
| | |in 36 hours at these tanks and
| | |made little apparent difference in
| | |the supply. As there is no
| | |catchment area, except the surface
| | |of the rock, it looks as if the
| | |tanks were fed by springs. Should
| | |the source of supply be capable of
| | |giving more water, the amount
| | |retained could be easily increased
| | |by building a small dam across the
| | |end of the large tank, which would
| | |increase the depth to 9 feet. One
| | |of the other tanks could be
| | |similarly treated, but the result
| | |would not be so great. Horses must
| | |be watered from buckets.
| | |
| | |Country around is covered with
| | |fairly open forest of good-sized
| | |trees, with a little undergrowth.
| | |No bamboos were noticed after
| | |this.
| | |
| | |For about 3 miles the track
| | |continues through forest. At 19
| | |miles it reaches a large open
| | |glade about 2 miles wide, with
| | |very few trees, and with grass 3½
| | |feet high. It is apparently a
| | |clearing made at some time by
| | |fire. Track then continues through
| | |open forest of very fine trees,
| | |many of which are tabeldi
| | |(Adansonia).
| | |
Khor Goz El | 7¼ | 68¾ |On this occasion, owing to the
Tabeldi | | |recent rain, there was sufficient
| | |water in this khor to water the
| | |men and horses, but water cannot
| | |be counted on. Country remains
| | |open; trees scattered, but
| | |sufficient for shade. Grass 5 feet
| | |to 8 feet high.
| | |
Khor El Waja | 4¾ | 73½ |This is a grassy khor, about ¼
| | |mile wide, quite dry, but said to
| | |hold water during rains. It is
| | |intersected by narrow water
| | |channels, 3 feet to 6 feet deep.
| | |The khor, whose soil is black
| | |clay, would be a serious obstacle
| | |to troops in the rainy season, and
| | |would, I think, be impassable for
| | |guns and transport while in flood.
| | |
Khor Melisa | 1 | 74½ |This is a sandy khor about 17
| | |yards wide, with steep banks 10
| | |feet to 14 feet deep, said to come
| | |from J. Girada. In the rains it
| | |must be a considerable obstacle.
| | |The country continues open, but
| | |with grass from 6 feet to 8 feet
| | |high, to within 2¾ miles of Gedir,
| | |when a belt of thick acacia and
| | |kittr scrub, 1¾ miles in width, is
| | |crossed. For guns or pack animals,
| | |it would be necessary to clear a
| | |path through this belt.
| | |
| | |About 1½ miles from Gedir, the
| | |sandy khor, Gedad, 8 feet wide and
| | |6 feet to 8 feet deep, said to
| | |come from J. Girada, is crossed.
| | |The last ¾ mile to Gedir is open
| | |ground with few scattered trees.
| | |
_J. Gedir_ | 7¾ | 82¼ |A rocky horseshoe-shaped hill,
| | |estimated altitude above the plain
| | |600 feet. The village is on the
| | |re-entrant. Near the gorge are two
| | |wells about 80 feet deep, with a
| | |little water. No other water was
| | |seen. There are about 500
| | |inhabitants. Many of the men have
| | |rifles. They are not naked like
| | |those of Kau, and appear to be a
| | |cross between Arabs and Nubas.
| | |
| | |The Mahdi’s Stone is a large
| | |boulder up the slope of the hill,
| | |outside of, and about ½ a mile
| | |from the northern heel of the
| | |horseshoe, and on the way to
| | |Girada, of the same colour as the
| | |surrounding rocks, and shaded by a
| | |heglig tree, which may account for
| | |the Mahdi’s partiality for it. No
| | |cultivation was seen, but the
| | |inhabitants said they had some
| | |dura fields ripening.
| | |
| | |Jebel Girada appears to be 5 to 7
| | |miles distant. It is said to have
| | |a plentiful water supply.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

101.—EL OBEID TO DAR EL JANGE.

BY MAJOR E. B. WILKINSON, JANUARY AND FEBRUARY, 1902.

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| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
El Obeid | — | — |Leaving the Mudiria, the road runs
| | |in a S.S.W. direction, and at 1½
| | |miles distance further on reaches
| | |the southern edge of the El Obeid
| | |basin, and low acacia bush and an
| | |occasional baobab tree take the
| | |place of dukhn cultivation.
| | |
Track to _El | 5 | 5 |At 5 miles distance from El Obeid,
Atshan Wells_ | | |a broad track runs in a S.W.
| | |direction to El Atshan wells,
| | |which are situated in Khor
| | |Fertangul, 22 miles from El Obeid.
| | |
| | |The road to El Merekib continues
| | |in the same direction, viz.,
| | |S.S.W., and one passes through the
| | |same kind of bush with sandy soil
| | |until the village is reached. The
| | |inhabitants consist of Bederia and
| | |Ghodiat Arabs.
| | |
_El Merekib_ | 5 | 10 |There is a well here, but the
| | |supply of water is very small.
| | |Dukhn is cultivated around the
| | |village.
| | |
| | |The road continues in a S.W. by S.
| | |direction until J. Fertangul is
J. Fertangul | 6½ | 16½ |reached. There are two small hills
| | |of the same name; one E. of the
| | |road, and 6½ miles distant from
| 1½ | 18 |Merekib, and the other on the W.
| | |of the road, and 8 miles distant
| | |from Merekib. The crest of latter
| | |is crowned with white limestone.
| | |
_Khor | 1 | 19 |One mile from the hill, Khor
Fertangul_ | | |Fertangul with wells in its bed is
| | |reached.
| | |
| 5 | 24 |Khor.
| | |
Khor Kashgil | 1½ | 25½ |Khor Kashgil with good shade and
| | |grazing.
| | |
| | |Here road changes direction to
| | |S.S.E., and runs through thick
| | |bush for 9¾ miles until khor
_El Edeidat_ | 9¾ | 35½ |crosses road; this place is known
| | |as El Edeidat. There are two wells
| | |in khor. (Plenty of water March,
| | |1904.)
| | |
Hella Abdel | 5 | 40¼ |Road runs S. from here, and 5
Samad | | |miles on a track runs S.E. to
| | |Hella Abdel Samad, which is about
| | |1 mile off the main road.
| | |
_El Birket_ | 2¾ | 43 |One and three-quarter miles on
| | |road turns due W., and 1 mile on
| | |brings one to El Birket; there are
| | |two villages here consisting of
| | |Bederia Arabs who have a good deal
| | |of land under cultivation. Here
| | |there is a large lake or
| | |reservoir, which I am informed
| | |contains much water for eight
| | |months in the year, but owing to
| | |this year being exceptionally dry
| | |there was no water (February,
| | |1902), and wells sunk in the
| | |centre 24 feet deep were also dry.
| | |The area of this reservoir is
| | |probably 2 square miles. Good
| | |timber and shade on the southern
| | |edge of the lake.
| | |
| | |From here the road runs S.W.
| | |through thick bush, and the soil
| | |changes to black cotton soil.
| | |
El Edaiya Faki| 7 | 50 |The district known as El Edaiya
Yasin | | |commences, and Hella Beni Fadl is
| | |reached.
| | |
Um Seneina | 2¾ | 52¾ |Hella Um Seneina.
| | |
Abu Habl | 3¼ | 56 |Khor Abu Habl is reached at
| | |Sessaban. This district is
_Um Sessaban_ | | |inhabited by Bederia Arabs; each
| | |village has a certain amount of
| | |land cleared and under cultivation
| | |(dukhn). Khor Abu Habl is here
| | |about 15 to 20 yards broad, with
| | |high banks varying from 15 to 20
| | |feet with good timber growing
| | |along them. A few wells are sunk
| | |at Sessaban, but the supply of
| | |water was not sufficient to allow
| | |of animals being watered (8.1.02).
| | |
H. El Daruta | 3½ | 59½ |H. El Daruta (Bederia), J.
| | |Belgulti and Fainar visible from
| | |here.
| | |
| 2 | 61½ |Track runs W., and
| | |
H. Balamat | 1 | 62½ |Hella Balamat is reached.
| | |
_Kururra_ | 2½ | 65 |Khor Abu Habl is again struck at
| | |Kururra well, which is situated
| | |under a very fine gemmeiza tree,
| | |and gives a large quantity of
| | |water.
| | |
| | |Well, 80 feet to water, and there
| | |was 20 feet of water in it.
| | |Kururra village ½ mile E. of well,
| | |Bederia, also water at this well.
| | |Hawazma Arabs.
| | |
_Sungikai_ | 3 | 68 |Wells of Sungikai—four in number,
| | |72 feet deep in khor; banks of
| | |khor 10 to 15 feet high. Large
| | |population of Hawazma Arabs.
| | |
| | |Sungikai village 1½ miles N.W.
| | |
| | |From Sungikai village a much used
| | |road runs N.N.W. to El Obeid,
| | |passing through El Atshan wells in
| | |Khor Fertangul, distance 48 miles.
| | |
Zeriba El Aguz| 2½ | 70½ |Leaving Sungukai wells, one enters
or H. El | | |a very rich district. Road runs
Birgid | | |S.W., and 2½ miles H. El Birgid
| | |(Bederia) is reached, and villages
| | |occur almost every mile till El
| | |Nila is reached. There is much
| | |cultivation in this district; the
| | |inhabitants (Hawazma) possess many
| | |cattle, and N. of Nila there is
| | |excellent timber.
| | |
_El Nila_ | 5½ | 76 |At _El Nila_ there are six wells,
| | |average 42 feet deep, giving
| | |excellent supply of water, and
| | |many hundreds of cattle, sheep and
| | |goats water there daily. Fine
| | |gemmeiza, sunt, haraz, and heglig
| | |trees. Four to five Arab (Ferikgs)
| | |or settlements. Khor 20 yards
| | |between banks, which in places are
| | |22 to 25 feet broad. All along
| | |bank there is very good timber.
| | |
| | |Leaving El Nila wells in a S.S.E.
| | |direction, there is an excellent
| | |and much used road to J. Watta,
| | |distant 30 miles, first 10 miles
| | |good shade, after that none.
| | |
_J. | 15 | 91 |Leaving El Nila, road runs S.W.
Dilling_[32] | | |and after 13 miles through forest
| | |of heglig and talh, and over
| | |cotton soils bring one to J.
| | |Dilling, consisting of a group of
| | |hills; thickly populated by Nubas
| | |who build their little conical
| | |huts in groups in suitable
| | |recesses among the boulders high
| | |up in the hills.
| | |
| ½ | 91½ |Half a mile S.W. wells in khor;
| | |khor 25 to 30 yards broad; good
| | |shade and grazing; good camp
| | |ground.
| | |
_J. Abu Sebah_| 4 | 95½ |Four miles S.W. is J. Abu Sebah, a
| | |small rocky hill ½ mile from khor
| | |along which there is a small
| | |population of Hawazma Arabs, who
| | |have dug wells, four in number, in
| | |khor, depth 21 feet to water.
| | |Deleib palms were first seen
| | |between Dilling and this, and the
| | |country intervening is cleared and
| | |cultivated.
| | |
| | |From J. Abu Sebah road to Gulfan
| | |runs S.E. over cotton soil for
| | |first four miles. Open bush and
| | |then talh, heglig bush, &c.
| | |
J. Samasen | 15 | 110½ |J. Samasen is passed, and
| | |
| 4 | 114½ |Four miles on, one reaches the
| | |foot of hills where soil becomes
| | |more gravelly, and contains a lot
| | |of detritus and broken rock, which
| | |makes going harder for camels. The
| | |road trends S. and then W.,
| | |winding over spurs from the main
_J. Gulfan_ | 3 | 117½ |hills and passing over large areas
| | |which are cultivated with dura,
| | |eventually entering between the
| | |hills crowned with many Nuba
| | |villages and Gulfan is reached.
| | |
| | |Here there was very little water.
| | |Wells mere holes 6 feet to 8 feet,
| | |and having a very slow yield.
| | |Hills are here terraced to the
| | |top, and dura grown in large
| | |quantities. The terraces are most
| | |carefully made and walls of stone
| | |are built.
| | |
| | |From Gulfan the road runs W. over
| | |rock, and going is bad, as one is
| | |continually ascending and
| | |descending spurs.
| | |
| 2 | 119½ |Two miles after leaving, wells
| | |(mere holes in the ground, about 6
J. Tarda | 1 | 120½ |feet deep) are passed, the road
| | |now running between two ranges of
| ½ | 121 |hills, and there is an Arab
| | |settlement. J. Tarda is left on
| | |the N. and J. Watta 4 miles N.E.,
| | |and road turns S. and S.W.,
| | |following the contour of the
| | |southern range of hills, and ½
| | |mile on a road branches, running
| | |N.E. to J. Watta, which is
| | |inhabited by Nubas and Arabs.
| | |
| | |The road to J. Watta runs N.E.
| | |through thick bush for 4½ miles,
| | |and crosses a khor close to the
| | |hill. There are many wells, but
| | |most give very little water which,
| | |however, is of good quality. The
| | |road to Kadaro and El Obeid from
| | |S. passes through here; and also
| | |there is an excellent road to
| | |Nila, running N.N.W. through talh
| | |and jungle. This road is greatly
| | |used by Hawazma Arabs, who migrate
| | |N. annually. Six miles after
| | |leaving J. Watta, J. Tungul is
| | |left on E., 3 miles off road, and
| | |at 16 miles J. Dilling el Khulla
| | |is passed, 1 mile W. of road. No
| | |shade for 20 miles, then good
| | |shade and grazing; total distance
| | |to Nila 30 miles.
| | |
_Katta_ | 2½ | 123½ |Nuba village Katta is passed, and
| | |there is an Arab settlement close
| | |by. Much dura is cultivated. J.
| | |Sheibun and Um Heitan is visible.
| | |
| 2 | 125½ |A large rocky hill with jagged
| | |crest; low bush, no shade. Here
| | |road runs S.S.W., and 2¼ miles on
| | |khor is passed which had water in
| | |a hole under S. bank on 21.2.02.
| | |Road continues in same direction
| 2¼ | 127¾ |and the country is very much the
| | |same as before, talh and heglig,
| 9½ | 137¼ |only the soil is more gravelly
| | |until Khor Debri and Debri wells,
| | |6 feet deep, are reached. Leaving
| | |Debri wells, where there is a
| | |small hill, road runs S.W. for 2
| | |miles, and ¾ mile further S.
| | |
_J. Debri_ | 2¾ | 140 |J. Debri, with village (Nuba) of
| | |the same name is passed. Here much
| | |land is cleared and dura
| | |cultivated at the foot of hills.
| | |
_J. Kega_ | 2 | 142 |Two miles south of Debri road
| | |bends to W., skirting the foot of
| | |the hills, and J. Kega Tummero is
| | |reached. This is a large conical
| | |hill, part of W. chain of other
| | |features, and up the sides of
| | |which the Nubas have built their
| | |huts, some situated right on the
| | |top, at the foot of which and in
| | |the re-enterants are also many
| | |huts belonging to them and also
| | |Arabs. There is a well here but
| | |the water is very bad.
| | |
_Khor Kega_ | 2 | 144 |Two miles on Khor Kega is reached,
| | |which flows from J. Kega el Abiad
| | |and Kega Libu. There are six wells
| | |in bed of khor, which is 20 yards
| | |wide, 6 to 8 feet deep; water good
| | |and abundant, good shade and
| | |grazing. Much dura is cultivated
| | |in the plain, and there is an Arab
| | |(Hawazma) settlement. Crossing
| | |Khor Kega road runs roughly S.
| | |over cotton soil with talh and
| | |heglig forest, and at 3½ miles
Khor El Kuek | 3½ | 147½ |Khor El Kuek is crossed.
| | |
_Hella Daud_ | 12 | 159½ |Eleven miles on Hella Daud, 35 to
| | |40 huts belonging to Hawazmas, who
| | |cultivate dura and have much
| | |ground cleared. From here to S.W.
| | |the Miri range and J. Demik and
| | |Kega Heg El Kheil are visible.
| | |Water is transported from wells in
| | |a khor E. of village at the foot
| | |of J. Tesein Dhanat.
| | |
| | |After continuing S. through the
| | |same kind of forest and crossing
| | |many small watercourses which flow
| | |W. from the hills, the road skirts
| | |the foot of J. Musta, and Kadugli
_J. Kadugli_ | 7 | 166½ |is reached. Here there is a
| | |population of Nubas and Hawazma
| | |Arabs. The Mek of the Nubas is
| | |named Rehal, and he exercises
| | |power over all the surrounding
| | |hills. The whole of this range of
| | |high hills containing J. Tesem
| | |Dhanab, J. Musta and J. Kadugli,
| | |is known by the name of El Goghub.
| | |J. Sabori, to the W., is also
| | |inhabited.
| | |
| | | FROM KADUGLI TO KEILAK.
| | |
_Khor Kadugli_| ½ | 167 |Leaving the camp at the foot of J.
| | |Kadugli one proceeds W. and ½ mile
| | |on brings one to the khor of the
| | |same name. Here there are three
| | |groups of wells. (1) ¾ mile W. of
| | |Arab village there are a group of
| | |some half a dozen wells,
| | |principally used by Arabs. (2)
| | |Central group, live wells 6 feet
| | |deep, used by Nubas. (3) 1 mile
| | |down stream and S., two wells 6
| | |feet deep, used by the Mek’s
| | |immediate household; all give a
| | |good supply of water. There is
| | |very good grazing all along the
| | |khor. Much dura cultivated.
| | |
J. Kaffari | 2 | 169 |J. Kaffari is passed S. of road
| | |which runs W. through much dura
| 1 | 170 |cultivation and along the banks of
| | |Khor Kadugli, which rises in Miri
| | |range. Road passes now between low
| | |range of hills, and continues W.
| | |by S. for 5 miles through level
| | |plain covered with heglig, talh,
| 5 | 175 |and haraz forest, with clearings
| | |for dura cultivation, with the
| | |hills close in on either side
| | |forming a narrow gorge scarcely
| | |200 yards wide, down which runs a
| | |khor some 10 to 15 yards broad.
| | |The ground being rocky it is very
| ¾ | 175¾ |bad going for camels and bulls.
| | |
| | |Gorge turns abruptly S., and road
| | |continues on through pretty
| | |scenery in a W. direction over a
| | |rocky saddle-back, and then one
| | |gradually descends into a valley
| | |in which a large and important
| | |khor rises which feeds Lake
| | |Keilak, and enters the Bahr El
| | |Arab. Water here obtained by
| | |digging in the sand in bed of
| | |khor.
| | |
| | |Plain surrounded by green
| | |vegetation; good timber, and there
| | |is much land cleared for dura
| | |cultivation. The hills are
| | |terraced to the tops and dura
| | |grown on them.
| | |
_Tuluk_ | 5 | 180 |Tuluk, the abode of Mek Hamed Abu
| | |Sekin, is reached, and there are
| | |many groups of villages in the
| | |surrounding hills; some low down
| | |near the foot, others perched high
| | |up near the crests. Here,
| | |surrounded on all sides by hills,
| | |is a large open area of ground
| | |with water within 2 feet of the
| | |surface, probably 1½ square miles
| | |of rich soil, which, if only
| | |tilled, would grow almost
| | |everything. The Nubas only require
| | |dura, however.
| | |
J. Kufa | 3 | 183 |Leaving Tuluk the track runs along
| | |side of khor, which now runs S.W.,
| | |and 3 miles on J. Kufa, with
| | |several large villages, is passed.
| | |Here roads divide; one, following
| | |khor, passes through plain much
| | |cultivated with dura by the Nubas
| | |of J. Kufa, Lima, and Kania. The
| | |khor here is walled across at
| | |intervals with large stones to
| | |hold back the water in the rains.
| | |Khor emerges from the hills at J.
| | |Kania.
| | |
_J. Abu Sinun_| 2 | 185 |The second road runs S.S.W. to J.
| | |Abu Sinun, where there are two
| | |Nuba villages under Mek Zakharia,
| | |and a Homr (Felaita) village.
| | |Water obtained from khor.
| | |
_J. Kanga_ | 3 | 188 |Three miles W. is J. Kanga, the
| | |southern side of which hill is
| | |fortified by a 6-feet stone wall,
| | |crowned by a zeriba to guard the
| | |Nubas from raids by the Homr
| | |Arabs. The huts are high up the
| | |hill. Khor emerges here between
| | |two hills, and is now 20 to 25
| | |yards broad; well 4 to 6 feet in
| | |khor; water good. Looking S. about
| | |20 miles off are two hills, and
| | |beyond as far as the eye can reach
| | |to the S. and W. is a dead level
| | |plain covered with forest. From J.
| | |Kanga, road runs W. and S.W., and
| | |for 1½ miles there is dura
| | |cultivation.
| | |
| 1 | 189 |Khor crosses road, and cotton soil
| | |takes the place of rocky
| | |decomposed gravel. The forest is
| | |of larger growth—talh and heglig,
| | |and the tracks of animals which
| | |have struggled through the deep
| | |mud that exists in the rains
| | |become visible.
| | |
| 3½ | 192½ |Road again crosses khor, and long
| | |grass hinders any view.
| | |
| 2½ | 195 |Road crosses outlet from Lake
| | |Keilak, which now becomes visible,
| | |and then goes due W. for two miles
| | |when Keilak is reached.
| | |
_Keilak_ | 2 | 197 |Keilak is a series of groups of
| | |tukls badly built and inhabited by
| | |Homr Arabs who possess few flocks,
| | |a few horses, and appear to live
| | |on the Nubas.
| | |
| | |The limits of the lake are very
| | |difficult to determine, as for 2
| | |miles on N.E. and N. sides long
| | |grass 8 feet high hides all view,
| | |but from what can be observed by
| | |riding round the length was
| | |computed to be 4 miles and the
| | |breadth 2 miles. On 22.1.02, there
| | |was a very large expanse of open
| | |water, and the natives reported it
| | |to be considerably over a man’s
| | |height in depth. In order to reach
| | |the open water one has to wade
| | |through a broad fringe of green
| | |grass and lilies. Soil surrounding
| | |lake excellent, rich soil and
| | |water could be found a mile from
| | |edge, 6 feet below surface. The
| | |forest on S. and W. sides very
| | |good, and there are some really
| | |fine timber trees.
| | |
| | |
| 2 | 199 |Leaving Keilak road runs N. for 2
| | |miles then S.S.E., and numerous
| | |Arab settlements are passed
| | |situated along the outlet of the
| | |lake.
| | |
_El Geref_ | 4½ | 203½ |4½ miles El Geref; Homr
| | |settlement; here there is water in
| | |any quantity, 8 paces broad with
| | |grass and water-lilies covering
| | |the surface. Water 1 to 2 feet
| | |deep in places. Current very
| | |slight; Arabs clear spaces and
| | |fence them round for fish to
| | |collect in.
| | |
| 1¼ | 204¾ |Road then goes S.W. for 1¼ miles,
| | |then S.S.E. for 2½ miles over a
| | |broad swamp, dry at date of
| | |crossing (25.1.02), but covered
| | |with long grass and pitted with
| | |elephant tracks, which were
| 2½ | 207¼ |terrible pitfalls for the baggage
| | |animals. After crossing this bit
| | |of country, track runs S.W., along
| | |edge of bed of river, which was
| | |dry, and going became better, and
| | |when track ran on the slightly
| | |elevated edge of forest; the soil
_El Yoi_ | 20¾ | 228 |was sandy and going good until El
| | |Yoi was reached. Along immediate
| | |edge of river, forest very good.
| | |To the E. and W. away from river,
| | |talh and heglig forest and cotton
| | |soil.
| | |
| | |At El Yoi two pools were found,
| | |containing good water sufficient
| | |for our wants, but likely only to
| | |last for a few days. Ground here
| | |much cut up and intersected by
| | |small water channels, while soil
| | |was baked hard and cracked in all
| | |directions, making it most
| | |difficult for bulls and donkeys to
| | |travel. At El Yoi itself, good
| | |shade and fine trees; forest in
| | |neighbourhood and to S. consists
| | |of talh, and ground covered with
| | |long grass.
| | |
_El Dirkoei_ | 7¾ | 235¾ |Road continues S.W., and after 7¾
| | |miles, El Dirkoei is reached; this
| | |place merely a reach of the river,
| | |which at the time contained a
| | |little water.
| | |
_El Debekir_ | 3½ | 239¼ |Three and a-half miles S.W., El
| | |Debekir was reached. Here there
| | |was an Arab (Homr) settlement;
| | |water in bed of river, 8 feet deep
| | |in places and covered with grass
| | |(27.1.02), but dry on 11.2.02.
| | |
| | |From Debekir road runs over black
| | |cotton soil very much fissured. W.
| 13¾ | 253 |by S. for 13¾ miles, then S.S.W.
| | |for 3 miles when heglig forest is
_El Anga_ | 3 | 256 |entered and El Anga on river is
| | |reached. Here there is an Arab
| | |settlement, and there was a little
| | |water (28.1.02).
| | |
_Kuek_ | 5½ | 261½ |Road now runs 1¾ miles S.W., and
| | |S. for 3¾ miles when Kuek is
| | |reached. Here the river is 50
| | |yards broad, and the water was
| | |from 2 feet 6 inches to 4 feet
| | |deep, but covered with grass.
| | |Large Arab settlement and many
| | |cattle.
| | |
_H. Debib_ | 6 | 267½ |Road runs S.W. for 6 miles, when
| | |H. Debib is passed; a few Homr
| | |Arabs living here; but in the
| | |rains there are many wells; one
| | |well 6 feet deep, water good.
| | |
| | |General run of road now S.S.W. to
| | |S.
| | |
Fula Hamadai | 3½ | 271 |Fula Hamadai with a little water
| | |sufficient to water animals on
| | |30.1.02; but dry on 9.2.02. Small
| | |villages—mere collection of three
| | |or four huts passed at El Jaart
| | |and Um Geren.
| | |
Fut | 11¾ | 282¾ |Eleven and three quarter miles
| | |from Fula Hamadai, village named
| | |Fut was passed. Country here more
| | |open and lower bush; going better,
| | |and road crosses river bed; dry
| | |and long grass.
| | |
_Fauwel_ | 4 | 286¾ |Fauwel is reached. Large Arab
| | |settlement; much water in river,
| | |and an open expanse 1¾ miles
| | |surrounded by reeds. Geese and
| | |waterfowl. Homr Arabs here very
| | |wild, but possess many cattle,
| | |goats and sheep.
| | |
| 8¾ | 295½ |Road now runs 1 mile S.W. and 5¾
| | |miles S.S.E. and strikes the
| | |river, then continues to run
| | |alongside of it for 2 miles, when
| | |the river takes a bend N.E. The
| | |river here is very broad, 300
| | |yards in places and the water is 3
| | |feet 6 inches deep, generally the
| | |surface is covered with grass and
| | |weeds, and very little open water
| | |is seen. The trees on bank are
| | |also much bigger.
| | |
Bahr El Arab | 5 | 300½ |The Bahr El Arab here has to be
| | |crossed, and this was done at a
| | |point where it was 120 yards
| | |broad, with water 3 to 3 feet 6
| | |inches deep, the baggage bulls
| | |being unloaded and the baggage
| | |being carried across by hand. Bed
| | |of river very muddy.
| | |
| | |From this point, which is known to
| | |the Arabs, as the district of
| | |Bara, the river flows S.S.E. as
| | |far as could be judged.
| | |
| | |Track now runs S., and at 5 miles
| | |divides one running S.S.W. to the
| | |country of a Dinka chief called
| | |Rueng, the other S.S.W. leads over
| | |a wide plain covered with long
| | |grass and a few bushes; surface of
| | |ground much fissured and soil much
| | |cut up.
| | |
| | |Country changes to forest after
| | |some miles.
| | |
Bongo | 14¾ | 315¼ |The first Dinka village of Bombo
| | |is reached. This district is now
| 3 | 318¼ |known as Bongo, and 3 miles on,
| | |S.W., is one of the villages of
Tehak | 2½ | 320¾ |Tehak, another of the same name
| | |being met 2½ miles on.
| | |
| | |These villages, neatly built, are
| | |used by the Dinkas in the rains
| | |and as long as the water lasts. At
| | |the present date, 2.2.02., all the
| | |inhabitants had left and were
| | |grazing their herds of cattle
| | |where grass and water were to be
| | |found.
| | |
_Etai_ | 2 | 322¾ |Reached Etai, where the first
| | |Dinkas were met. Here there were
| | |large settlements, and the people
| | |were most friendly. A chief named
| | |Lor has his headquarters here. A
| | |large watercourse flows in from
| | |N.E. and meets another
| | |watercourse, the Regabet El Lau,
| | |which comes from N.W., and then
| | |joining runs into the Kir, or Bahr
| | |El Jange, in a southerly
| | |direction.
| | |
_Kir, or Bahr | 5½ | 328¼ |Road continues for 3 miles through
El Jange_ | | |forest S.W., then runs W. for 2½,
| | |miles, and the Kir River, or Bahr
| | |El Jange, is struck, as one
| | |reaches the settlements of Sultan
| | |Rob.
| | |
| | |The river here is a most pleasant
| | |sight after the monotonous red
| | |talh forest and long grass, and is
| | |80 yards broad now, 3.2.02., 12 to
| | |15 feet deep, current 1½ miles an
| | |hour. Banks low but firm, with
| | |green rushes and grass along the
| | |edges. In the rains the banks are
| | |flooded and the river widens to
| | |200 to 400 yards. There are a few
| | |dugouts here; the natives say that
| | |canoes can go in open water to the
| | |Bahr El Ghazal. Fish are
| | |plentiful, as are also crocodiles
| | |and hippos.
| | |
| | |The district on N. bank is called
| | |Mareg. The district on S. bank is
| | |called Masian, and the Sultan Rob
| | |lives in the latter. Much dura is
| | |cultivated.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

102.—RIVER KIR TO FAUWEL.

BY MAJOR E. B. WILKINSON, JANUARY AND FEBRUARY, 1902.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
| 2¼ | — |Leaving Sultan Rob’s settlement
| | |the road runs N.W., and the river
| | |is left on the left, but is struck
| | |again 2¼ miles on, and the path
| | |keeps along the left bank. The
| | |country here is all open, and much
| | |dura cultivated. Dinka dwellings
| | |are dotted about, and the country
| | |presents a most prosperous aspect.
| | |
_Gohea_ | 2¾ | 5 |Village of Gohea on river bank,
| | |which here has become overgrown
| | |with reeds, grass, &c. River here
| | |turns to N.W., and road now runs
| 2¾ | 7¾ |N.E. for 2¾ miles, then E. by N.
| | |
| 1 | 8¾ |One mile on Regabet El Lau, coming
| | |in from N. and running S.
| | |
_El Niat_ | 1¼ | 10 |The commencement of a large swamp,
| | |now dry, called El Niat, but
| | |covered with long grass, and going
| | |is very bad.
| | |
| 4½ | 14½ |End of El Niat.
| | |
| 1½ | 16 |Direction of road changes to N.
| | |
Gulmaia | 9¼ | 25¼ |Gulmaia, a pool containing very
| | |bad water; almost dried up.
| | |
_Abu Kareit_ | 4 | 29¼ |Abu Kareit, on Bahr El Arab. Homr
| | |settlement. River here 100 yards
| | |broad, with water 2 feet 6 inches
| | |deep covered with grass; river
| | |here flows E. and W.
| | |
Mellum | 4¾ | 34 |Track follows river bank.
| | |
| | |Mellum, an Arab settlement, with
| | |Khor Famai running in from N.
| | |
_Regabet El | 6½ | 40½ |River now flows W. by N., and 6½
Shaib_ | | |miles on Regabet El Shaib; flows
| | |in the N. from river; now bends
| | |S.W., and enters district called
| | |Bara. Immediately at this point
| | |flows in Keilak El Yoi; and Fauwel
| | |flows in from N.E.
| | |
Fauwel | 3¼ | 43¾ |From Regabet El Shaib road runs
| | |N.E., and another 3¼ miles N.
| | |brings one to Fauwel.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF BAHR EL ARAB AND DAR EL HOMR.

Immediately one emerges from the hilly country of the Nubas a vast level plain meets the eye, absolutely devoid of landmarks: the soil changes abruptly to rich black cotton soil with fissures, some so broad and deep that it is dangerous for bulls and donkeys, owing to their getting their legs jammed in the cracks. The surface of the land is uniformly covered with talh and heglig trees; occasionally tamarind and kau trees are met. Only two india-rubber trees were seen. The natives do not appear to know the use of these. The Bahr El Arab in section is very shallow, with no defined banks, and at this time of year water is more or less in pools. All the confluents are the same shallow watercourses, and the country appears to be one vast swamp in the rains. Only in a few places, Fauwel, Keilak, and Kuek, do the Homr Arabs remain throughout the year, as they say that the flies and mosquitoes torment men and beasts to such an extent as to make life unbearable.

103.—EL OBEID TO SUNGIKAI, _viâ_ EL ATSHAN AND EL HAMADI.

BY DEPUTY INSPECTOR C. E. LYALL.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
El Obeid | 5 | 5 |After leaving El Obeid in a
| | |southerly direction, road divides,
| | |going S. to Mereikab and S.S.W. to
| | |El Atshan.
| | |
| | |Road continues in S.S.W.
| | |direction, and thorn bush does not
| | |impede travelling; going generally
| | |good.
| | |
El Atshan | 17 | 22 |El Atshan wells are reached, 22
| | |miles from El Obeid; quite
| | |dry—20.4.03.
| | |
| | |Leaving El Atshan, road divides
| | |S.S.E. to Kadero, S.W. to El
| | |Hamadi; country generally open
| | |bush and good going. Two khors
| | |with fine timber are crossed.
| | |
El Hamadi | 18 | 40 |El Hamadi is reached 18 miles from
| | |El Atshan. On 20.4.03 there was a
| | |little water in shallow wells in
| | |khor; it took about 2 hours to get
| | |two burmas. On 5.6.03 there was no
| | |water.
| | |
El Nebag | 7 | 47 |Leaving El Hamadi, road goes S.W.;
| | |at first a good deal of thorn
| | |bush, till passing El Nebag, which
| | |is a depression with many
| | |magnificent trees and in which
| | |there is water in the rains. After
| | |passing El Nebag the road opens
| | |out, and the going is good and
| | |hard. After travelling 18 miles
| | |from El Hamadi, El Hagiz, a
Khor El Haigiz| 11 | 58 |shallow khor with some good shade,
| | |is reached. Half a mile before
| | |reaching El Hagiz road is joined
| | |by road from Um (Girban) Durban.
| | |
Sungikai, H. | 12 | 70 |Road continues in a S.W. direction
Gaghgagh | | |till Sungikai is reached. The
| | |hella is 2 miles from the wells.
| | |Unlimited water.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

N.B.—On El Obeid, Hamadi Sungikai road, except in rains, there is very little shade, except at El Atshan, Hamadi, El Nebag and Umhagiz.

104.—DILLING TO EL OBEID, _viâ_ SUNGIKAI, UM DURBAN AND UM RAMAD.

BY DEPUTY INSPECTOR C. E. LYALL, JUNE 1903 AND MARCH, 1904.