Chapter VIII: (kordofan) (1)

* * * * *

69.—SHEIKH SADIK TO HOMRA.

There is a good broad track the whole way. Good grazing, but indifferent shade.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Sheikh Sadik_| — | — |A small and very dirty village.
| | |One well 120 feet deep. Shade in
| | |khor to the south. Tomb visable at
| | |a distance. Good mosque. People
| | |own many goats. Dura sometimes
| | |available. Leaving the village the
| | |track crosses a khor and leads
| | |over gravel soil across several
| | |shallow khors. The country is
| | |fairly open, much samr bush.
| | |Telegraph line is on the west.
| | |
Wadi Afu | 8 | 8 |Is reached soon after crossing the
| | |telegraph line. Much cultivation
| | |on the surrounding rising ground.
| | |The gravel is now much mixed with
| | |clay which makes the going bad
| | |during rain.
| | |
Goz El Leia | 15½ | 23½ |Sand commences and continues to
| | |Shageig. The marakh bush first
| | |appears.
| | |
_Bir Khanga_ | 6 | 29½ |Now dry. There is also a large
| | |fula. Many others exist in the
| | |neighbourhood. Heavy going in
| | |places (1903).
| | |
_Shageig_ | 13½ | 43 |Fula and many wells. Water
| | |practically unlimited. Small
| | |village. Fair shade but grazing
| | |bad in hot weather. The road now
| | |leads to the north end of J. Tius.
| | |There is little shade, but fair
| | |grazing.
| | |
J. Tius | 18 | 61 |About 300 feet high above plain.
| | |The road crosses the sand hill
| | |that has collected on the north
| | |side. The road now passes one or
| | |two fulas that only contain water
| | |in the rains.
| | |
_El Homra_ | 16 | 77 |Good rest house. Small Gowama
| | |village. Two good wells 125 feet
| | |deep. Fair shade near well.
| | |Moderate grazing, gets indifferent
| | |towards end of hot weather owing
| | |to the large number of convoys
| | |that pass through.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

70.—EL DUEIM TO HOMRA.

This is portion of the main route from El Dueim to El Obeid. There is a well defined track throughout.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
El Dueim | — | — |Leaving the town in a westerly
| | |direction, the track is at first
| | |difficult to pick up. Black soil,
| | |which during the rains becomes
| | |very swampy. Bush never bad, but
| | |many khors, which at times hold a
| | |great deal of water, have to be
| | |crossed.
| | |
_Id El Ud_ | 11½ | 11½ |Small Kurtan village, many wells,
| | |water practically unlimited. Fair
| | |shade near wells, but during the
| | |rains ground becomes very swampy
| | |and mosquitoes are very bad.
| | |
| | |Track continues over black soil at
| | |first. Then sand gradually
| | |increases and the bush disappears.
| | |After 4 miles no shade. Nothing
| | |but marakh bush. Slightly
| | |undulating country.
| | |
30th mile | 30 | 41½ |Telegraph line is struck, and soon
| | |after J. Helba is seen ahead.
| | |
_Helba_ | 8 | 49½ |Two wells 90 feet deep; good
| | |supply of water. Small Shuweihat
| | |village. Little shade near wells,
| | |but plenty ½ mile on. The road is
| | |on the south side of the telegraph
| | |line. There is a good deal of
| | |bush, sayal, heglig, etc.
| | |
_Homra_ | 13 | 62½ |_See_ Route No. 69.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

71.—HOMRA TO EL OBEID _viâ_ BARA.

(_Corrected to January_, 1904.)

Throughout this route there is plenty of grazing and firewood. Water is, however, apt to give out at Homra and Shegeila if more than 300 camels are watered in one day as may happen at times, but the wells quickly refill. Wide track the whole way.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Homra_ | — | — |Small Gowama village. Two good
| | |wells 125 feet deep. Good rest
| | |house, and fair shade near. Little
| | |dura for sale as a rule. Good
| | |track S. of telegraph line. Good
| | |shade for first 13 miles, then
| | |nothing but marakh bush, good
| | |grazing.
| | |
_Sakra_ | 21½ | 21½ |Small village S. of road. Well 100
| | |feet deep on N. side of telegraph
| | |line. Water for 100 men. Rest
| | |house; no shade.
| | |
_Shatib_ | 12½ | 34 |Small village; one well; no shade.
| | |
Old Well | 5½ | 39½ |In middle of track. Much
| | |cultivation near belonging to
| | |Gafala; a Maganin village visible
| | |1½ miles S.
| | |
_Shegeila_ | 6 | 45½ |Large Gowama village; two good
| | |wells 140 feet deep. Can water 200
| | |camels. Rest house. From here
| | |there are two roads to Baharia
| | |_viâ_ Wad Abu Suleiman and _viâ_
| | |Zereiga. The latter is the better.
| | |
| | | _Viâ_ ZEREIGA.
| | |
| | |Track follows telegraph line. Very
| | |little shade.
| | |
_Zereiga_ | 5 | 50½ |Two wells 125 feet deep. Small
| | |village; little shade, and bad
| | |grazing near wells.
| | |
| | |Country open; little shade.
| | |
_Baharia_ | 13½ | 64 |Two wells 80 feet deep. Rest
| | |house. Large Gowama village. Fair
| | |shade near village. Water very
| | |plentiful.
| | |
| | | _Viâ_ WAD ABU SULEIMAN.
| | |
| | |Road goes nearly S. at first; much
| | |gum and sayal bush, thick in
| | |places.
| | |
_Wad Abu | 9 | 54½ |Small village; one well 90 feet
Suleiman_ | | |deep. There is another village
| | |with well a mile to the S. on the
| | |Um Semeima-Um Dam road.
| | |
_Um Semeima_ | 2½ | 57 |Two small villages; each has a
| | |well. Road from Um Dam comes in
| | |here. Track leads due W.; marakh
| | |bush; no shade.
| | |
_Baharia_ | 6½ | 63½ |_See_ above.
| | |
| | |
| | |The country is now quite open.
| | |Marakh bush; no shade.
| | |
_Shereim_ | 17 | 81 |A small Gowama village on the N.
| | |side of the road. One well. A mile
| | |before reaching it gum, sayal and
| | |haraz bush appear. Road winds a
| | |good deal, and bush is thicker to
| | |within 1 mile of Bara when
| | |cultivation commences.
| | |
_Bara_ | 5 | 86 |Large village with mosque and
| | |small suk. Good rest house. Wells
| | |from 6 to 20 feet deep, water
| | |practically unlimited. Good
| | |grazing near.
| | |
| | |Leaving the S. end of the town
| | |there is a wide track E. of the
| | |telegraph line. Heavy going to 5
| | |miles beyond Um Sot.
| | |
_Daragai Well_| 9 | 95 |One well on road. Fair shade near,
| | |but ground much soiled by camels
| | |and cattle.
| | |
_Um Sot_ | 3 | 98 |One well on road 85 feet deep;
| | |good supply of water. Good shade
| | |under large haraz trees near
| | |village 3 miles S.E. Next 5 miles
| | |heavy going, then road improves.
| | |
Fula Faragalla| 12½ | 110½ |One hundred yards in diameter,
| | |generally dry by end of October.
| | |Good shade and grazing near. J.
| | |Kurbag is seen in front. Road
| | |passes to W. of jebel.
| | |
Fula Kurbag | 9 | 119½ |S.W. of jebel; 100 by 80 yards,
| | |usually dry by mid-October. Good
| | |shade.
| | |
| | |From here to El Obeid there is no
| | |shade. The track passes through
| | |dukhn cultivation. Good going.
| | |
El Obeid | 5 | 124½ |Main track goes to the town. For
| | |the Mudiria follow the telegraph
| | |line when struck. At night be
| | |careful to avoid the wire stays to
| | |the poles.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

72.—EL DUEIM TO EL OBEID, _viâ_ HASHABA.

BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, SCOT. RIFLES (MARCH, 1900), AND MR. R. E. MORE
(1903).

This is the shortest route between the river and El Obeid. There is good grazing throughout, though shade is sometimes wanting. After Hashaba, there are two routes to Um Sedeira, one _viâ_ Um Dam, the other _viâ_ Abu Areish. The former is the better, as there is plenty of water at Um Dam.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
El Dueim | — | — |Leaving the town in a westerly
| | |direction the track goes over
| | |black soil which, during the
| | |rains, forms a serious obstacle to
| | |transport. Bush never bad, but
| | |several khors have to be crossed,
| | |which, at times, hold a good deal
| | |of water.
| | |
_Id El Ud_ | 11½ | 11½ |Small Kurtan village; many wells,
| | |water practically unlimited. The
| | |Agaba is now entered. Track hard
| | |to pick up at first. During the
| | |rains it is often necessary to go
| | |some way to the N., as the ground
| | |W. of wells is liable to floods.
| | |Mosquitoes are then very bad. No
| | |shade.
| | |
J. Shwei (Rest| 24 | 35½ |Rest house. Low isolated hill S.
house) | | |of track. Country becomes more
| | |undulating and bush increases.
| | |Good grazing, but no shade. Well
| | |now being dug, but water not yet
| | |reached at 180 feet (September,
| | |1904).
| | |
_Hashaba El | 27 | 62½ |Maganin village. Three wells 140
Murad_ (Rest | | |feet deep. Rest house. Dôm palms
house) | | |near village form good land mark.
| | |Take the western road; after
| | |leaving the cultivation little but
| | |marakh bush is seen. Good grazing.
| | |
Shegela | 8½ | 71 |A small Maganin village. No well;
| | |water from Hashaba. Good track;
| | |slightly undulating country.
| | |Hashab trees commence and continue
| | |to within a few miles of Um Dam.
| | |Direction nearly due W.
| | |
_Um Dam_ (Rest| 23 | 94 |Head Quarters of Khursi District.
house) | | |Rest house and 3 good wells 130
| | |feet deep. Much cultivation all
| | |round and several small villages
| | |near. Leaving in a south-westerly
| | |direction, good track; gum and
| | |sayal bush. Gowama.
| | |
_Um Basira_ | 3 | 97 |Small village off road to N.;
| | |often called Fiki Taha; well. Good
| | |track; gum and sial bush, thick in
| | |places.
| | |
_Wad Kamuri_ | 5½ | 102½ |Two villages. One good well.
| | |Plenty of grazing and shade off
| | |road to S.
| | |
Goz El Hagiz | 3 | 105½ |A low sandy ridge running nearly
| | |N. and S. Country now becomes more
| | |undulating, and continues so to
| | |within 10 miles of El Obeid.
| | |
_Um Sedeira_ | 3½ | 109 |Three villages, with one good well
(Rest house) | | |80 feet deep; can water 30 camels.
| | |Good shade and grazing.
| | |
_Adara_ | 5 | 114 |One well 80 feet deep; good water.
| | |Good track, but heavy going.
| | |
Um Heim | 8½ | 122½ |One well 100 feet deep; can water
| | |15 camels. Um Beida, 6 miles S.E.,
| | |has a similar well.
| | |
_Um Busha_ | 3 | 125½ |Two wells 120 feet deep. Good
(Rest house) | | |shade and grazing near wells. Many
| | |haraz trees. Road now bears S. W.
| | |J. Gleit and J. Kurbag are left to
| | |the N. Well marked track all the
| | |way. Some bush, but cultivation
| | |for last 5 miles.
| | |
El Obeid | 33 | 158½ |

The following is an alternative route. There is, however, less water,
and the road is much less frequented.

_Hashaba El | — | 62½ |Leaving in a S.W. direction there
Murad_ | | |is little bush at first. Good
| | |track.
| | |
_Bagera_ | 25 | 77½ |Three small Gowama villages. One
| | |bad well 140 feet deep, not to be
| | |depended on. Good track; sayal
| | |bush.
| | |
_Abu Areish_ | 16 | 93½ |Small village. One well 120 feet
| | |deep. Can water 15 camels with
| | |difficulty. The road from Taiara
| | |to Um Dam crosses here. Good track
| | |over red sandy soil.
| | |
Goz El Hagiz | 4 | 97½ |Low sandy hill.
| | |
_Um Shidera_ | 3½ | 101 |As above.
| | |
El Obeid | 49½ | 150½ |As above.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

73.—GEDID TO EL DUEIM, _viâ_ UM DEISIS.

BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, THE SCOTTISH RIFLES, FEBRUARY, 1901, AND
COLONEL THE HON. M. G. TALBOT, R.E., DECEMBER, 1901.

The whole of this road is over black cotton soil, and is occasionally impassable during the rains, at which time tracks east and west leading from one patch of cultivation to another along the red sandy ridges are more generally used. There is practically no bush near the road and very little shade.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Gedid Wells_ | — | — |The road goes almost due N. from
| | |the wells. A few small villages
| | |are seen west of the road,
| | |inhabited only during the rains.
| | |
_Selia_ | 25 | 25 |A Gimma village on a hill,
| | |belonging to Sheikh Nur Hussein,
| | |and four other Ahamda villages.
| | |Thirty wells, 8 feet deep, 1½
| | |miles N.E. Good water, but they
| | |soon run dry. There are roads from
| | |here to Fachi Shoya and J. Kon.
| | |
_Um Deisis_ | 7 | 32 |About 40 wells, 30 feet deep.
| | |Plenty of water, This is a Kurtan
| | |village. The gum gardens and
| | |cultivation belong to them, but
| | |the Beni Jerar water their cattle
| | |here, and their camping places are
| | |frequently seen.
| | |
_Abu Sela_ | 18 | 50 |A Shanabla village situated on a
| | |hill. The country all round is
| | |very open, and firewood scarce.
| | |The wells (not seen) are 2½ miles
| | |S.E. of the village. The country
| | |now becomes more desert-like, but
| | |during the rains all the ridges
| | |are cultivated. A few miles before
| | |reaching Um Bueira many villages
| | |are seen to the east of the road.
| | |These belong to Um Bueira.
| | |
_Um Bueira_ | 11 | 61 |Some 20 very good wells, 28 to 30
| | |feet deep. The villages and
| | |cultivation to the E. of the road
| | |belong to the Mesellemia, to the
| | |W. of the road chiefly to the
| | |Shanabla. There is no bush about,
| | |and at this time of year (Feb.)
| | |very little grass. Hundreds of
| | |sheep and goats water daily.
| | |
_Shat_ | 2½ | 63½ |A large place with suk and many
| | |merchants. The wells are numerous;
| | |about 30 feet deep, and give a
| | |practically unlimited amount of
| | |water. No shade and little grass
| | |near wells, as it is eaten down by
| | |the cattle, sheep, and goats, who
| | |come to water. Many villages
| | |about, Mesellemia and Shanabla,
| | |and in the rains much cultivation.
| | |In rains water stands, and
| | |mosquitoes are bad.
| | |
| | |Three miles on the bush commences,
| | |but is never very dense and
| | |generally grows in patches.
| | |
Um Sunta | 10 | 73½ |A small pool.
| | |
| | |The bush now consists of kittr,
| | |heglig, and talh, but is never an
| | |obstacle to transport.
| | |
| | |The ground is a good deal cracked
| | |and is at intervals impassable in
| | |the rains.
| | |
El Dueim | 8 | 81½ |For description, _see_ Part I, p.
| | |66.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

74.—SHAT WELLS TO EL OBEID, _viâ_ J. KON.[28]

AS FAR AS ZEREIGA, BY COLONEL THE HON. M. G. TALBOT, R.E., DECEMBER,
1901; REMAINDER BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, THE SCOTTISH RIFLES, MARCH, 1901.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Shat Wells_ | — | — |The road bears nearly S.W., well
| | |marked and nearly straight,
| | |crossing several sandy ridges.
| | |Easy ascents and descents. The
| | |only “Id” passed is Abu Shareima,
| | |where there is a natural pool of
| | |little depth and quite dry. About
| | |1 mile to the N. is a new Shanabla
| | |village.
| | |
Goz Um Sibila | 5½ | 5½ |Goz Um Sibila is crossed. It does
| | |not seem more remarkable than the
| | |other ridges, but the name is well
| | |known.
| | |
_Zereiga | 5½ | 11 |Many wells, 15 to 20 feet deep,
Wells_ | | |good water. J. Bachi just visible
| | |in the evening from highest mound
| | |near wells. Water supply
| | |diminishes in summer. Water stands
| | |here after heavy rain, when
| | |mosquitoes are very bad.
| | |
| | |The country becomes slightly
| | |undulating, good well-marked
| | |track, red sand, a few hashab
| | |trees about, but country generally
| | |open; little shade.
| | |
Amara | 28 | 39 |Remains of about 30 old wells.
| | |Formerly a Baza village.
| | |
Um Ged | ½ | 39½ |Ditto; but remains of more wells.
| | |This is a well-known halting place
| | |for convoys from Ageila, as there
| | |is a little shade.
| | |
Road divides | 13½ | 53 |The southern track goes to Ageila,
| | |said to be “one day”; the other
| | |turns due W., crossing the sandy
| | |ridge that has collected N. of J.
| | |Kon. There is a good deal of bush
| | |about.
| | |
_J. Kon_ | 1½ | 54½ |A rocky ridge running nearly N.
| | |and S., ¾ mile long, and rising
| | |about 300 feet above the plain. A
| | |little water on the mountain, and
| | |many old wells on the W. side near
| | |the track. These are said to have
| | |formerly given plenty of water.
| | |
Hella Kon | 1 | 55½ |A small Gowama village. Water from
| | |J. Kon.
| | |
Alleiga | 3½ | 59 |A small Baza village. No well;
| | |water from Bint Joda.
| | |
Id Adam | 3 | 62 |Remains of eight old wells; said
| | |to have been 80 feet deep.
| | |
_Bint Joda | 3 | 65 |Twenty wells, 85 feet deep, not
Wells_ | | |much water in them. Five more
| | |being opened. There was formerly
| | |much cultivation about.
| | |
| | |The village is ¾ mile to the E.
| | |People are Baza and Gowama, and
| | |own many gum gardens.
| | |
| | |The country continues slightly
| | |undulating, covered with hashab
| | |bush, but the latter is never very
| | |thick near the road.
| | |
Um Bilbil | 1 | 66 |Old wells. Gowama. Formerly much
| | |cultivation.
| | |
Gogran | 1 | 67 |Ditto.
| | |
Elton | 3½ | 70½ |Ditto.
| | |
Fula Masuda | 1 | 71½ |Thirty yards in diameter, 2 feet
| | |deep, now dry.
| | |
Rabeisab Wells| 1 | 72½ |Now fallen in.
| | |
Rabeisab | 2¾ | 75¼ |Gowama village of thirty tukls,
| | |water from Wad Kasim.
| | |
_Wad Kasim_ | 2½ | 77¾ |Twelve wells open, 70 feet deep.
| | |Little water; it took an hour to
| | |fill 12 zigs, working four wells
| | |at the time. The wells and
| | |cultivation belong to the Messadab
| | |tribe.
| | |
Um Butran | 1¾ | 79½ |Deserted Gowama village.
| | |
Wad Delu | 3¼ | 82¾ |Old wells. Gowama. Much
| | |cultivation formerly.
| | |
Group of old | 3½ | 86¼ |About thirty. Guide did not know
wells | | |their name.
| | |
_Sayala_ | 7½ | 93¾ |Very small Gowama village. Sheikh
| | |Ahmed Omar (lives at Taiara). Two
| | |very bad wells. Signs of former
| | |cultivation now become less, and
| | |the hashab trees increase, until
| | |near Taiara the bush is in places
| | |thick enough to interfere with
| | |traffic.
| | |
_Taiara_ | 24½ | 118¼ |A large village, with good wells
| | |and market. Head quarters of a
| | |District. Many merchants, who buy
| | |gum with grain and cotton stuffs.
| | |It was once a large place, but in
| | |January, 1900, had not more than
| | |ten tukls. It is however growing
| | |very rapidly. Sheikh Ahmed Omar,
| | |Gowama Homran, and Sheikh Mohammed
| | |El Mahir, Gowama Gemeiia, are the
| | |two principal sheikhs.
| | |
| | |For the next 18 miles the track,
| | |which is well defined, crosses a
| | |series of ridges of red sand.
| | |These run from N. to. S., and,
| | |though never very steep, delay
| | |trotting camels and disturb the
| | |loads of transport animals. They
| | |are Goz Taiara, immediately W. of
| | |the town, Goz Um Ageiga, Goz Benit
| | |Ranim, Goz Multut, Goz Amarik
| | |Sinein.
| | |
Amarik | 6 | 124¼ |Village on side of last named
| | |hill. Next comes Goz Amarik El
| | |Fungara and then Goz Bartai.
| | |
Bartai | 3¼ | 127½ |A small village on the W. of the
| | |last-named hill.
| | |
| | |Goz Abd El Azim, Goz Gaabr.
| | |
Fula Gaabr | 3 | 130½ |There are two natural ponds, one
| | |to the N. and one to the S. of the
| | |road. They are usually dry by
| | |November. Goz Boli, at the foot of
| | |which is a pool called Um Butab;
| | |Goz Um Hemeira, at the foot of
| | |which is a small pond of the same
| | |name. Goz Fiki Gelalat El Din, a
| | |mile beyond which is a pool about
| | |35 yards in diameter called Fula
| | |Magbus; dry in October.
| | |
_Gafil_ | 4½ | 135 |A small village on the east side
| | |of the Goz El Hagiz El Ashgar,
| | |which forms the western boundary
| | |of the Gowama country. Water from
| | |a bad well, and from Fula Magbus.
| | |
| | |The track now enters more level
| | |country, but khors are crossed in
| | |many places, and the going is very
| | |bad in the rains.
| | |
J. Kao | 4 | 139 |Is left to the N. of the road. The
| | |hashab tree becomes rare, but in
| | |places the bush is dense though
| | |the actual track is clear enough.
| | |A few tebeldis.
| | |
J. Deigo | 9 | 148 |On the north of the track. There
| | |are two fulas, one S. and one W.
| | |Both dry up by November as a rule.
| | |
Deigo | 1¾ | 149¾ |A small village. Water from the
| | |above fulas and from El Obeid. The
| | |road from El Rahad comes in here.
| | |
El Obeid | 6½ | 156¼ |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

75.—SHAWAL TO GEDID _viâ_ FACHI SHOYA AND EL ALOB, THENCE _viâ_
DAR EL AHAMDA TO TAGALE.

BY CAPTAIN H. H. S. MORANT, THE DURHAM L.I., 1901, FROM PERSONAL
OBSERVATION AS FAR AS DAR EL AHAMDA, REMAINDER FROM NATIVE SOURCES
(FEBRUARY, 1901).

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Shawal | — | — |Is on the right bank, and nearly
| | |directly opposite to H. Sheikh
| | |Bordein, a small Sudanese wood-
| | |cutting settlement (1901) on left
| | |bank. From the latter a good track
| | |along left bank, through thick
| | |bush for first mile or two, leads
_Fachi Shoya_ | 12 | 12 |to Fachi Shoya, which is a
| | |flourishing village and the
| | |residence of Sheikh Gubara, head
| | |Sheikh of the Shankhab tribe.
| | |There are also some Greeks here,
| | |agents of Khartoum merchants, for
| | |the purchase of gum.
| | |
| | |(From here there is an alternative
| | |and rather shorter route to Gedid
| | |_viâ_ Bellali 17 miles, Abu Aadel
| | |21½ miles, and Menauel 29 miles).
| | |
| | |The track still continues within a
| | |mile or less of the river, which
| | |is accessible almost anywhere.
| | |There are many Arab encampments
| | |along the river, rather more than
| | |a mile inland.
| | |
_El Hasai_ | 4 | 16 |Shankhab, dry weather village on
| | |river bank. El Alob, a long sandy
_El Alob_ | 5½ | 21½ |“Goz” or hill is passed about half
| | |a mile to the E., and a little
| | |further on the villages of the
| | |same name are reached. The route
| | |to Gedid now leads W.S.W., and
| | |immediately after passing the rain
| | |village (about 100 tukls) of El
| | |Alob, the numerous sandy ridges so
| | |typical of S.E. Kordofan commence.
| | |
_Galet_ | 9 | 30½ |The name of the wells (not
| | |visited) and hill passed about ¾
| | |mile to the N. of the road. About
| | |½ a mile before reaching the
_Salogi_ | 2½ | 33 |wells, the rain village of Salogi,
| | |consisting of about 40 tukls, is
| | |passed on the top of a hill. There
| | |were eight wells in use (February,
| | |1901); water apparently plentiful
| | |about 12 feet below the surface.
| | |
_Gamas_ | 2½ | 35½ |About 30 tukls. Four wells about
| | |18 feet deep, but only giving a
| | |scanty supply of muddy water.
| | |
_Um Hagar_ | 3½ | 39 |Passed about 1 mile to S. of road.
| | |It is on the main road from Goz
| | |Abu Guma to Gedid, which joins in
| | |about 1 mile further on. There are
| | |four wells about 12 feet deep.
| | |Water fairly plentiful. These are
| | |the westernmost Shankhab wells.
| | |
_Menauel_ | 5 | 44 |Rain village; 20 tukls about ¾
| | |mile N. of track. Wells dry. Main
| | |road to Gedid (11 miles) goes
| | |direct, but if water is required,
_Um Beiru_ | 2½ | 46½ |must go about 2 miles W. to Um
| | |Beiru where there are about 60
| | |wells 15 feet deep. Water
| | |plentiful, good shade.
| | |
_Gedid_ | 9½ | 56 |Lies in a basin surrounded on
| | |three sides by low sandy ridges,
| | |on which are permanent villages.
| | |There are also several temporary
| | |encampments of Arabs who come to
| | |live near the wells in dry season.
| | |In the rains water stands in large
| | |pools in this basin, and in the
| | |dry weather there are many wells
| | |about 10 feet deep with plenty of
| | |water. It is the headquarters of
| | |the Gimma, and is a comparatively
| | |large gum centre; there are
| | |several Greek traders living here
| | |(February, 1901). Some of the best
| | |gum country in Kordofan lies
| | |westwards between here and Ageila.
| | |From here to Dar El Ahamda there
| | |are two roads, that _viâ_ Meika
| | |being the longer; but the greatest
| | |distance without water is only 17
| | |miles, whereas by the direct road
| | |there is no water for nearly 30
| | |miles. Gedid is now (1904) the
| | |Head Quarters of a District.
| | |
Goz Um Tibeir | 1½ | 57½ |The latter road runs due S. _viâ_
| | |Goz Um Tibeir, where are several
| | |villages watering from Gedid,
| | |after which no inhabitants are
Makheita | 10 | 67½ |met, except perhaps a few gum
| | |pickers at Makheita, until Dar El
| | |Ahamda is reached.
| | |
_Wad Mahmud_ | 5 | 72½ |There is an ‘id’ here, but the
| | |wells are dry very early in the
| | |year. This was the site of Abd El
| | |Rahim Abu Dugal’s deim, from which
| | |he raided Dar El Ahamda in the
| | |summer of 1899.
| | |
Khor Senitai | 3½ | 76 |Said to be boundary between the
| | |Gimma and Dar El Ahamda. There is
| | |very dense kittr bush about here,
| | |though it does not interfere much
| | |with travelling.
| | |
Um Wabar | 2 | 78 |The country here becomes more open
| | |and is studded with small kurmet
| | |bushes.
| | |
_Um Subagha_ | 8½ | 86½ |Four wells, 20 feet deep, little
| | |water. Road from Goz Abu Guma
| | |_viâ_ Id El Gim (9 miles) joins in
| | |here. This is the usual route to
| | |Goz Abu Guma taken by people from
| | |Tagale and Southern Kordofan.
| | |
| | |
Alternative | — | — |The alternative route from Gedid
route | | |_viâ_ Goz El Homara passes at
| | |first through thickish kittr bush,
| | |and then through more open country
| | |to Meika (10½ miles). The site of
| | |the Khalifa’s deim, defeat, and
| | |death (1899) lies a little to the
| | |W. of the direct road to Meika,
Rahad | 6½ | 62½ |and is reached _viâ_ Rahad
Asheishat | | |Asheishat, which contains water
| | |for some time after the rains (in
| | |March, 1901, it had still a little
| | |very foul water in it). People are
| | |said to collect here during the
| | |rains.
| | |
| | |The site of the battle is close by
| | |on the E. of the road, and the
Um Debreikat | 2½ | 65 |position of the deim which was
| | |alongside the road is still
| | |recognisable from the stumps of
| | |the trees cut down.
| | |
| | |There is also a large pool on S.
| | |of road, about 150 yards by 80
| | |yards, and there are the remains
| | |of a good deal of recent dukhn
| | |cultivation in the vicinity.
| | |
_Meika_ | 3 | 68 |Five groups of wells used by the
| | |Gimma and a few of the Selim
| | |Baggara. Water plentiful about 12
| | |feet down.
| | |
| | |From here the road runs S. to Goz
| | |El Homara (4 miles), the
| | |cultivating ground of the Selim
| | |and a few of the Gimma Arabs, and
| | |thence to Id El Gim (17 miles) in
| | |Dar El Ahamda, joining the direct
| | |road from Gedid at Um Subagha
| | |(portion Goz El Homara to Id El
| | |Gim was not traversed).
| | |
_Um Subagha_ | 27 | 95 |From here the road passes through
| | |very dense kittr bush, which
| | |impedes the rate of travelling
| | |considerably.
| | |
Mafri | 7 | 102 |A small village; water supply from
| | |Id Tefangerun.
| | |
_Id | 2½ | 104½ |In the Khor Ardeiba, which is said
Tefangerun_ | | |to originate in the Tagale
| | |mountains, and to flow S.E. to the
| | |Nile. In it are nearly all the
| | |wells in Dar El Ahamda, none of
| | |which however, except those of El
| | |Akaf, can be relied on to contain
| | |much water towards the end of the
| | |dry season.
| | |
| | |The Khor Ardeiba is not, as a
| | |matter of fact, known by the same
| | |name for more than a mile or two,
| | |as it takes the name of each
| | |successive district through which
| | |it passes. It has a shallow ill-
| | |defined bed, but is traceable by
| | |the number of heglig and other
| | |green trees which grow in it.
| | |
Dura | 3½ | 108 |The road follows the khor and
| | |passes wells at Um Desis and at
| | |Dura, a village (no well) from
| | |which J. Um Talha is visible; a
| | |track branches off southwards
| | |through very dense kadad bush, and
| | |1¾ miles on joins another track
_Gamelein_ | 1½ | 109½ |from Gamelein (1¼ miles), which is
| | |the usual starting point for
| | |Tagale, and where there are
| | |several wells. The track then
| | |leads S.W. across a cotton soil
| | |plain thickly covered with bush,
_J. Um Talha_ | 50½ | 160 |chiefly talh and kittr, to J. Um
(Tagale) | | |Talha, one of the Tagale group of
| | |mountains under Mek Geili Adam. It
| | |is inhabited by Nubas, and has
| | |several wells. _See_ route No. 98.
| | |
| | |The distance from Gamelein to Um
| | |Talha is only very roughly
| | |estimated, and cannot be relied
| | |on.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

76.—GOZ ABU GUMA TO DAR EL AHAMDA.

BY CAPTAIN H. H. S. MORANT, MARCH, 1901.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Goz Abu Guma | — | — |Goz Abu Guma, properly Zeinuba, is
| | |on right bank of White Nile and is
| | |the head quarters of a District.
| | |There is a post and telegraph
| | |office and a fair suk. In good
| | |years plenty of grain can be
| | |bought here. At low Nile in order
| | |to cross to left bank, a branch of
| | |the river is crossed by a ford to
| | |two islands, thence there is a
West bank | 1½ | 1½ |ferry to W. bank, where there are
| | |several gum depôts. The road from
| | |Dueim _viâ_ El Alob passes here
| | |and follows the river southwards
| | |to Kaka and Kodok. A much used
| | |road also leads to Gedid _viâ_ Um
| | |Hagàr (_see_ Route No. 9) 20
| | |miles, thence _viâ_ Taiara to El
| | |Obeid.
| | |
| | |The road to Dar El Ahamda leads
| | |S.W. over the usual more or less
| | |undulating and open bush covered
_El Koru_ | 3½ | 5 |country to El Koru; a largish
| | |village said to have wells (not
| | |seen). Soon after leaving this a
| | |road from the river coming from
| 3½ | 8½ |N.E. joins in and 3 miles further
| | |on another track branches off S.W.
| | |to Um Adda (6 miles) where there
| | |are several wells.
| | |
_Id Teheima_ | 1¼ | 9¾ |The track followed led S. to Id
| | |Teheima, several fair wells and
_Id Um Zaaf_ | 6 | 15¾ |villages, thence down a very bare
| | |valley to Id Um Zaaf situated in
| | |the middle of a perfectly open
| | |level grassy basin, which looks as
| | |if it might be swampy in the
| | |rains. Several wells or holes;
| | |water plentiful, not more than 5
| | |feet down.
| | |
_Um Zaaf_ | 1¼ | 17 |Goz Um Zaaf with a village on the
| | |top of it. Near the S. end of the
| | |goz there is another well, but
| | |with little water. A road runs
| | |from here eastwards to the river
| | |(12 miles?), and another westwards
| | |_viâ_ Waar (8 miles) to Gedid (24
| | |miles).
| | |
_Suda_ | 7½ | 24½ |Road followed runs S.W. through a
| | |good deal of kittr and gum bush to
| | |Suda, which is a small village
| | |perched on the usual Goz.
| | |
| | |There are two lots of wells and
| | |water is comparatively plentiful.
| | |Good shade. There are several
| | |other villages near. Here the road
| | |from Um Adda, another from Um
| | |Hagàr _viâ_ Waar, a third from
| | |Gedid _viâ_ Um Debreikat, and a
| | |fourth from Meika unite. A path
| | |also leads S.E. to Jebelein (25
| | |miles) _viâ_ Andaraba (no water
| | |_en route_).
| | |
Um Huta | 1½ | 26 |Continuing S. the road passes a
| | |village named Um Huta to the W.
Goz El Shubai | 5 | 31 |(no water), and later crosses Goz
| | |El Shubai, the highest hill in
| | |this part of the country. There is
| | |an “id” at its S.E. end, but it
| | |had no water (March, 1901).
| | |
| | |Here a track branches off
| | |eastwards to Goz El Homara, and
| | |about 2 miles further on another
| | |from El Homara runs eastwards to
| | |Um Gereib.
| | |
Um Sir | 6 | 37 |At Um Sir (Selim) there were
| | |several wells and plenty of water
| | |in March, 1901, but in the same
| | |month, 1902, there was said to be
| | |very little.
| | |
| | |There were also the remains of a
| | |good deal of cultivation about.
| | |
| | |A road leads from El Homara _viâ_
| | |these wells to Jebelein (about 18
| | |miles).
| | |
Mit El Ghaneis| 1 | 38 |Small cultivation village.
| | |
Goz El Gharak | 2 | 40 |A slight elevation on which is
| | |dukhn cultivation N. of track.
| | |
Rahad Waar | 3½ | 43½ |A large natural rain tank, dry
| | |soon after rains, but many Arabs
| | |congregate here whilst there is
| | |water.
| | |
Khor Talh | 3½ | 47 |After passing through thick talh
| | |bush, a shallow khor, probably
| | |that known on the Gedid Um Subagha
| | |road as Senitai, is passed.
| | |
Um Fatma | 3 | 50 |A well known belt of thick kittr
| | |about a mile in width, said to be
| | |N. boundary of Dar El Ahamda.
| | |
| | |After this is passed country is
| | |comparatively open.
| | |
Id Heidub | 10 | 60 |Several wells; water not very
| | |plentiful (March, 1901).
| | |
Id Nagi | 3 | 63 |One or two wells, but very little
| | |water (March, 1901). Splendid
| | |shade.
| | |
El Gedul | 3 | 66 |Rather large village (for these
| | |parts); water from Id Nagi.
| | |
| | |Soon after leaving El Gedul some
| | |very dense kadad, &c., bush is
| | |entered and continues to
| | |
Mageikha | 2½ | 68½ |A small cultivation village.
| | |
Wad El Khot | 1½ | 70 |Small village; water from Saneit.
| | |Dense kittr bush which interferes
| | |with camels is now traversed.
| | |
Saneit | 2 | 72 |Small village residence of Sheikh
| | |Abdel Rahman Taher, head Sheikh of
| | |Dar El Ahamda. Several wells in a
| | |shallow khor; fairly good supply
| | |of water. From here a road leads
| | |S. to El Akaf (4½ miles), good
| | |wells, thence _viâ_ Id Nemeid
| | |(wells 11½ miles) to the Nile,
| | |probably at Um Asherin, about 20
| | |miles beyond.
| | |
Gamelein | 2¼ | 74¼ |The road leads up the khor to
| | |Gamelein, described in Route 75,
| | |and thence to J. Tagale.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

77.—GOZ ABU GUMA TO EL OBEID, _viâ_ SHERKEILA AND RAHAD.

FROM A REPORT BY CAPTAIN C. H. LEVESON, 18TH HUSSARS, NOVEMBER, 1903.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Goz Abu Guma | — | — |Bad landing place—easily improved;
| | |also bad watering place at this
| | |season (November) for animals;
| | |buckets necessary. No good grass
| | |close. Camel fly bad.
| | |
_Menauel_ | 24 | 24 |Several pools; best, 50 by 30
| | |yards. Water good.
| | |
_Gedid_ | 11 | 35 |Good road. Several pools; water
| | |fair.
| | |
_Abu Rukba_ | 18 | 53 |Small fula, dirty water, 3 miles
| | |W. of village, would be dry by end
| | |of November. Drinking water from
| | |wells. Close cultivated country.
| | |
_Um Kueika_ | 25 | 78 |No water at Um Shokaba or Um
| | |Hagar, so went on to Um Kueika.
| | |Shallow fula, filthy water, more
| | |like liquid manure. Wells not much
| | |better. Thousands of water melons
| | |are grown instead.
| | |
_Sherkeila_ | 20 | 98 |No water at Ageila. Big lake at
| | |Sherkeila—fair water; also good
| | |water from wells. Road, before
| | |reaching here, heavy going. Bad
| | |place for horses.
| | |
_Um Ruaba_ | 18 | 116 |No Tebeldi trees, but big fula, 50
| | |yards by 40. Country more open.
| | |Passed big village, named Gogham.
| | |3 miles short of Um Ruaba. No
| | |water at Shamagatta, so marched
| | |_viâ_ Rahad.
| | |
_Gadadin_ | 6 | 122 |Big village.
| | |
_Abli_ | 6 | 128 |No village. Half a mile off road,
| | |in thickly wooded khor, were 3
| | |small pools, each 20 yards
| | |diameter; also another smaller
| | |pool of clean drinking water.
| | |
_Um Kheiran_ | 16 | 144 |Road over succession of ridges of
| | |deep red sand, rendering going
| | |heavy. After passing Village
| | |Eilafun, country open. Large fula
| | |at Um Kheiran, 70 yards wide—good
| | |water.
| | |
_Umbeil_ | 3 | 147 |Village.
| | |
_Fula Um | 4 | 151 |Large fula, 120 yards by 80, 3
Sheikh_ | | |feet deep. Good clear water.
| | |
_Rahad Lake_ | 11 | 162 |Lake 3 miles long, ½ mile broad,
| | |about 3 feet deep—good water.
| | |Numbers of mosquitoes and sand
| | |flies. Big village about 2 miles
| | |from lake.
| | |
_Mao_ | 10 | 172 |Tebeldi trees and well. Road from
| | |here onwards much obstructed by
| | |trees.
| | |
_J. Ein_ | 19 | 101 |At foot of rocky hill is a well,
| | |said to be a spring. 60 buckets
| | |did not empty it. Forest very
| | |thick and full of deep khors about
| | |here.
| | |
J. Deigo | 11 | 202 |2 small fulas of filthy water
| | |hardly drinkable by horses.
| | |
El Obeid | 9 | 211 |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

78.—GEDID TO EL RAHAD _viâ_ AGEILA.

BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, DECEMBER, 1901.

This road is very swampy in the rains.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Gedid_ | — | — |Two good wells. Many Gimma
| | |villages near. They are not
| | |occupied during the rains, as
| | |there is little cultivation near.
| | |Good shade. Track over cotton
| | |soil, thick bush.
| | |
Abu Rukba | 17 | 17 |Some old wells. The tomb of the
| | |Khalifa’s father is on a hill a
| | |little to the N. of the road.
| | |There are a great many tracks
| | |here. Local guide necessary.
| | |
_Um Afgheim_ | 18 | 35 |Pool and one well. Track now leads
| | |over many sandy ridges. Between
| | |the ridges black cotton soil. Bush
| | |thick in places.
| | |
_Ageila_ | 14 | 49 |Several wells (14) with good
| | |supply of water. The village of
| | |Sheikh Yasin Yusef head Sheikh of
| | |the Gowamas is a mile N. of wells.
| | |Good shade. Water stands here in
| | |rains and mosquitoes are very bad.
| | |(There is a road from here to
| | |Sherkeila, 12 miles). There is now
| | |less black soil, and the bush
| | |becomes less thick.
| | |
_Um Ruaba_ | 24 | 73 |A large fula with wells. The
| | |latter are very bad. Much trouble
| | |in watering ten camels. Good
| | |shade. The village is 1½ miles to
| | |the N.
| | |
Track to | 12 | 85 |[To Shamagatta 12 miles, Taiara 30
Shamagatta and| | |miles].
Taiara | | |
| | |Country becomes undulating, sandy
| | |ridges, black soil between.
| | |
_El Eilafun_ | 10 | 95 |A small place with one well, but
| | |little water.
| | |
Um Sereiha | 1 | 96 |Small village, water from El
| | |Eilafun. These two villages were
| | |once large places, now very poor.
| | |Good track.
| | |
_El Rahad_ | 22 | 118 |Several large villages, much
| | |cultivation and small suk. Lake
| | |now full.
| | |
| | |N.B.—Lake was dry in autumn 1902.
| | |When dry, wells are dug in bed of
| | |the lake.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

79.—KAKA TO OPPOSITE JEBELEIN, BY LEFT BANK.

BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, MARCH TO APRIL, 1903.