Chapter IX: (north-Western Sudan.) (2)

----------------+--------------------+--------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
----------------+-------------+------+--------------------------------
Ambugol | — | — |Possesses abundant indications,
| | |in the remains of an ancient
| | |masonry pier and in the
| | |considerable ruins in the town,
| | |of having been formerly of much
| | |greater importance. It was
| | |selected as the point at which
| | |the projected Sudan railway
| | |should leave the Nile, and
| | |strike across the Bayuda Desert.
| | |
_Korti_ | — | 4 |From Ambugol the caravan route
| | |follows the bank of the river
| | |for a few miles to Korti, and
| | |then branches off into the
| | |desert in a westerly direction.
| | |
| | |After about 25 miles, it strikes
| | |the Wadi Abu Gir and continues
| | |along it for many miles. Mr.
| | |Fowler states that the water is
| | |to be procured by sinking wells
| | |along the course of this wadi,
| | |and that its bed for its entire
| | |length is filled with all the
| | |vegetation of the Bayuda Desert—
| | |shrubs and grass, which are
| | |invaluable both as fuel, and as
| | |food for flocks.
| | |
| | |Water reservoirs, in tins, were
| | |established in March, 1885, at
| | |hills 12 and 30 miles
| | |respectively from Korti, as the
| | |wells at Hambok and Haweiyat
| | |showed signs of giving out.
| | |
_Hambok_ | 47 | 51 |Wells.
| | |
_El Haweiyat_ | 8 | 59 |Wells. Yielding in February,
| | |1885, 310 gallons daily, but
| | |decreasing. Three wells, 6 feet
| | |deep, open in February, 1897.
| | |
| | |Near the mountain of El
| | |Mesalima, situated a little to
| | |the right of the track, there is
| | |an abundance of small timber.
| | |
| | |In December, 1871, and January,
| | |1872, water in pools was found
| | |in many of the ravines issuing
| | |from the Jebel Gilif range. The
| | |plain S. of this range has a
| | |good deal of scrub upon it, and
| | |is said to be flooded
| | |occasionaly during the rains to
| | |a depth of 3 feet to 4 feet.
| | |
Miljik | — | — |Five miles E.S.E. of Haweiyat
| | |and 1½ miles from the track;
| | |reported to have a good supply
| | |of rainwater like Jakdul. Found
| | |to be dry, February, 1885.
| | |
_Abu Alik_ | — | — |Four miles E.S.E. of Miljik.
| | |Good supply of water in wells 6
| | |to 8 feet deep. Too far from
| | |track for practical use.
| | |
_Zobrik El Kelb_| 14 | 73 |A plainly defined hill of
(Miglig) | | |curious shape. One mile N. of it
| | |are the wells of Miglig (Megaga,
| | |or El Kelb). Natural reservoirs
| | |of rainwater. These are two
| | |pools situated up a narrow
| | |ravine. The lowest, containing
| | |5,000 gallons, is fit for camels
| | |and horses. The upper pool, 100
| | |yards beyond, contains over
| | |100,000 gallons of pure clear
| | |water. Tanks full, February,
| | |1897, but water unclean; tastes
| | |stagnant.
| | |
| | |These estimates (14th February,
| | |1885, by Colonel Todd, R.E.)
| | |were taken when the upper pool
| | |was 4 feet, and the lower 7
| | |feet, below its high water
| | |level.
| | |
_Abu Halfa_ | 17 | 90 |The wells of Abu Halfa, situated
| | |about 3½ miles N. of the camel
| | |track, consist of holes made in
| | |dry river bed. They vary in
| | |depth from 5 feet to 10 feet,
| | |and in diameter from 3 feet to 4
| | |feet.
| | |
| | |Some distance further up the
| | |Wadi Abu Halfa there is a large
| | |pool surrounded by dom palms,
| | |which is said never to be dry.
| | |Close by this pool is a conical
| | |black hill, surmounted by a
| | |natural breastwork; excellent
| | |landmark.
| | |
| | |Water is to be found nearly
| | |everywhere in this wadi, a foot
| | |or two below the surface, and is
| | |visible in several places at the
| | |foot of rocks.
| | |
| | |To a breadth of ½ mile on each
| | |side of river bed, acacia trees
| | |abound, and there is beautiful
| | |tabas grass; this, with the
| | |trees, forms the principal food
| | |of the flocks and herds—goats,
| | |camels, and cattle—belonging to
| | |the desert Arabs.
| | |
| | |For about 6 miles after leaving
| | |Abu Halfa, the ground falls
| | |slightly, about half this
| | |distance being over a sandy
| | |desert, with sandstone rocks
| | |cropping up all round.
| | |
| | |The ground then rises gently,
| | |and enters country wooded
| | |thickly with acacia, and covered
| | |with coarse grass.
| | |
| | |On the W. stand isolated rocks
| | |of sandstone, and on the E. is
| | |seen the extension of the range
| | |from Abu Halfa, which vanishes
| | |with an abrupt turn eastward.
| | |
_Jakdul_ | 10 | 100 |The wells of Jakdul, situated in
| | |one of the torrent gorges of
| | |Jebel Gilif, about 3 miles from
| | |the camel track, consist of
| | |three large water-worn cavities,
| | |each at a different level, and
| | |shut in by precipitous cliffs.
| | |The lowest of the pools forms an
| | |irregular oval in plan, about
| | |120 feet long by 60 feet broad,
| | |and for three-fourths of its
| | |length it is enclosed between
| | |perpendicular rocks. Whether any
| | |labour has been expended in
| | |making these excavations it is
| | |impossible to say, but it is
| | |evident that the cavities have
| | |been mainly produced by the
| | |torrents rushing through a small
| | |passage about 8 feet above the
| | |highest water level, and thus
| | |wearing away the softer portions
| | |of the rock to a considerable
| | |depth below the ground level.
| | |
| | |These reservoirs contain always
| | |sufficient water for two years’
| | |supply of the existing demand,
| | |and are never dry. The lowest
| | |well is daily visited by large
| | |numbers of animals, and the
| | |water is consequently unfit for
| | |any other use. The second pool,
| | |about 10 feet above the first
| | |one, lies in the bottom of an
| | |almost inaccessible channel, the
| | |sides of the gorge rising in
| | |some places nearly
| | |perpendicularly to a height of
| | |about 80 feet from the water.
| | |
| | |The approximate length of this
| | |pool is 200 feet, and its width
| | |is 40 feet. The quality of the
| | |water is excellent, and from
| | |this and the upper pool the
| | |skins used to carry drinking
| | |water are filled, a cord and
| | |bucket being employed to raise
| | |the water. The third pool is
| | |about 5 feet higher than the
| | |second, and lies in a direction
| | |at right angles to it. Its size
| | |is about 80 feet by 15 feet.
| | |
| | |A very tortuous and contracted
| | |channel, about 20 feet long, and
| | |3 feet wide at the bottom, forms
| | |the connection between the
| | |second and the lowest pool.
| | |Above this the gorge widens out,
| | |and by the construction of a
| | |dam, a fine reservoir and ample
| | |water supply might be obtained.
| | |
| | |These wells, forming the chief
| | |water supply on the
| | |Korti—Metemma route, were found
| | |ample for the requirements of
| | |the Desert Column, 2nd January
| | |to 15th March, 1885, but would
| | |not have lasted another
| | |fortnight.
| | |
| | |About 1 mile up the ravine,
| | |above the wells, are two more
| | |reservoirs, each holding
| | |(January, 1885) about the same
| | |as the middle Jakdul reservoir.
| | |They were not used in 1885.
| | |Numerous gazelle.
| | |
| | |After leaving Jakdul, the
| | |country for a few miles is
| | |entirely devoid of vegetation,
| | |but further on it is for the
| | |most part covered with a sandy
| | |deposit, producing tabas grass
| | |and acacia.
| | |
_El Fura_ | — | — |Eight or nine miles east of the
| | |wells of Jakdul, and some miles
| | |from the caravan track, are the
| | |wells El Fura. They consist of a
| | |number of holes, 3 or 4 feet in
| | |diameter, and a few feet in
| | |depth, and are sunk in the usual
| | |manner in the channel of a large
| | |river bed—Fura. They are rudely
| | |excavated and are unlined, their
| | |falling in, therefore, is a
| | |matter of frequent occurrence,
| | |and these accidents are repaired
| | |by the excavation of new holes.
| | |A basin with puddled sides is
| | |formed on the surface for the
| | |use of animals. During the rainy
| | |season the holes are rapidly
| | |filled with deposit, and they
| | |have then to be re-made. On the
| | |other hand, in the dry season,
| | |the wells are gradually
| | |deepened, as the water level
| | |falls through use, absorption,
| | |and evaporation. Cattle, sheep,
| | |and goats are driven here in
| | |large numbers. It is the custom
| | |during the hot season to water
| | |the sheep and goats once every
| | |four days, and the cattle every
| | |other day. In the winter season
| | |they are driven to the wells
| | |every sixth and fourth day
| | |respectively. The water at these
| | |wells is good, and the supply
| | |generally plentiful. Only once
| | |within the 30 years preceding
| | |1872[34] had they dried up, and
| | |then only after a continued
| | |drought of two years.
| | |
| | |These wells, being off the
| | |track, were not used by the
| | |Desert Column, 1885.
| | |
| | |Before reaching Jebel-el-Nus, a
| | |tract where much drift sand
| | |prevails is reached. This drift
| | |sand usually travels from the E.
| | |to the W., under the influence
| | |of the prevailing winds, in the
| | |form of low mounds, in plan
| | |somewhat of a crescent form,
| | |with the convex side turned
| | |towards the wind. This slope of
| | |the mound is about 6 in 1, up
| | |which the sand constantly
| | |travels to the summit of the
| | |ridge, and then rolls down the
| | |sheltered side where the slope
| | |is 1 in 1, every sandhill having
| | |in windy weather a slow but
| | |constantly progressive action.
| | |As all traces of the beaten
| | |camel tracks are often
| | |obliterated, the Jebel-el-Nus is
| | |an invaluable landmark. Bad,
| | |soft going here.
| | |
Jebel el-Nus | 22 | 122 |It is a remarkable conical rock
| | |of sandstone, and stands out
| | |prominently in the landscape.
| | |
| | |After this a valley is
| | |approached in which the drift
| | |sand becomes heavier, but where
| | |trees and grass grow abundantly.
| | |
| | |On either side, however, the
| | |aspect of the ground is most
| | |forbidding, the rocks
| | |surrounding the valley, seen
| | |from an elevation, having the
| | |appearance of a troubled stormy
| | |sea.
| | |
| | |The drift sand continues in the
| | |valley only for a distance of
| | |about 3 miles.
| | |
Jebel-el-Sergein| 10 | 132 |After crossing a grass-grown
| | |wady that partially drains a
| | |range of hills on the W., Jebel-
| | |el-Sergein (or Saddle Hill),
| | |another remarkable desert
| | |beacon, is passed.
| | |
| | |The valley round Jebel-el-
| | |Sergein is fertile and contains
| | |much grass, and many groups of
| | |trees. As it affords good
| | |pasturage for camels, it is
| | |always selected for a resting-
| | |place when the traveller cannot
| | |reach the nearest wells.
| | |
| | |Beyond this another wadi is
| | |crossed. It is about a mile in
| | |width, and well covered with
| | |trees and grass.
| | |
| | |For the next 12 or 13 miles the
| | |route runs through the district
| | |of Ummat Handal.
| | |
| | |The first part of it is covered
| | |with much broken sandstone and
| | |loose rock. This is followed for
| | |3 or 4 miles by a stretch of
| | |sand, which further on gives way
| | |to a more agreeable country in
| | |which grass and trees are
| | |plentiful.
| | |
| 15½ | 147½ |The scene of the battle (17th
| | |January ’85) was 2½ miles
| | |further on, ½ mile S. of the
| | |usual track.
| | |
_Abu Klea (Abu | 4½ | 152 |Some more wadis and low
Tleh)_ | | |intervening hills are crossed
| | |till the wells of Abu Tleh are
| | |reached.
| | |
| | |These wells are sunk in the same
| | |manner as those of El Fura, but,
| | |as the soil does not stand so
| | |well, they are constantly
| | |falling in, and have, therefore,
| | |very frequently to be
| | |reconstructed. The water is
| | |excellent for drinking, and the
| | |supply is good, having failed
| | |only once within the 30 years
| | |preceding 1872. These wells are
| | |directly on the camel track to
| | |Metemma and are constantly
| | |visited by caravans. They also
| | |form a favourite watering place
| | |for the flocks and herds of the
| | |Arabs.
| | |
| | |The route now enters a valley
| | |with grass and trees, and after
| | |following it for some distance
| | |across a plain covered with sand
| | |and black boulders, succeeded by
| | |a more favourable district,
| | |capable of cultivation during
| | |the rains.
| | |
_Shebakat_ | 16 | 168 |A little further on occurs the
| | |well of Shebakat.
| | |
| | |This well is also directly on
| | |the caravan route. It is 12 feet
| | |in diameter and 50 feet in
| | |depth, excavated through the
| | |sandstone rock to a bed of sandy
| | |shingle. It is situate on an
| | |extensive plain amongst thick
| | |scrub and coarse grass, and as
| | |there is no water channel in its
| | |vicinity, the supply must be
| | |obtained from low-level springs.
| | |The water being brackish, it is
| | |unfit for drinking purposes, and
| | |it is thick and clouded. The
| | |supply is abundant and never
| | |failing in the driest seasons.
| | |Small puddled basins are formed,
| | |as at other wells, on the ground
| | |surface for the use of cattle.
| | |
| | |An acacia forest, traversed by
| | |the Desert Column on the night
| | |of 18th January, 1885, lies a
| | |mile or two S. of the ordinary
| | |track hereabouts.
| | |
| | |The track to Metemma now leads
| | |over light scrub and tussocky
| | |gravel; that to Abu Khru or
| | |Khrug and Gubat is similar, but
| | |with less scrub.
| | |
| | |The caravan route ends at
| | |Metemma, which is situated near
| | |the W. bank of the Nile, and is
| | |separated from the desert by a
| | |low line of hills.
| | |
Metemma | 8 | 176 |A considerable tract of fertile
| | |land, about 1,200 yards broad,
| | |dividing the town from the
| | |river, is occasionally inundated
| | |during the season of the floods.
| | |
| | |Metemma contained (1885) about
| | |3,000 inhabitants, and was in
| | |1897 and 1898 the headquarters
| | |of Mahmud and his men. It now
| | |(1903) contains 2,500
| | |inhabitants who are chiefly
| | |women.
| | |
| | |This town in 1885 consisted of
| | |mud houses with straw roofs,
| | |with one or two earthworks W. of
| | |the town; two or more mosques.
| | |Bombardment with small 7-lb.
| | |guns produced no effect on the
| | |houses, the shells passing
| | |through without damaging them.
| | |Setting roofs on fire of no use,
| | |as it did not destroy the
| | |houses. It is now (1903) only
| | |just beginning to recover from
| | |the effects of Mahmud’s
| | |occupation and massacre.

SUMMARY OF WATER SUPPLY.

Ambukol | — | — |On the Nile.
| | |
Korti | — | — |On the Nile.
| | |
Hambok | 47 | — |Wells.
| | |
El Haweiyat | 8 | 59 |Wells.
| | |
Magaga | 14 | 73 |Two good reservoirs 1 mile N. of
| | |track.
| | |
Abu Halfa | 17 | 90 |Wells, 3½ miles from the camel
| | |track.
| | |
Jakdul | 10 | 100 |Three miles N. of the caravan
| | |track. Abundant supply of water
| | |good for a large force.
| | |
El Fura | — | — |About 8 or 9 miles from Jakdul,
| | |and some miles from the caravan
| | |track. Wells—water good, supply
| | |generally plentiful.
| | |
Abu Tleh | 52 | 152 |Wells—water excellent, supply
| | |fairly plentiful.
| | |
Shebakat | 16 | 168 |One large well. Supply abundant
| | |and never failing, but the water
| | |is brackish, and only fit for
| | |animals.
| | |
Metemma | 8 | 176 |On the Nile.
| | |
Shendi | — | — |On the Nile 3 miles below
| | |Metemma.
----------------+-------------+------+--------------------------------

113.—KORTI TO BAYUDA AND SEDEIRI.

BY CAPTAIN V. BUNBURY AND VISCOUNT SUDLEY, MARCH, 1897.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Korti | — | — |Road indifferent going for
| | |infantry; suitable for cavalry.
| | |
_Um Tub_ | 35 | 35 |One permanent well here, 10 feet
| | |in diameter, sides faced with
| | |stone. Water, 125 feet below
| | |ground level, good; constant
| | |supply. Fourteen hods at the
| | |well’s mouth in good order.
| | |Country open, good grazing. Well
| | |in the middle of a gravelly rise,
| | |easy for defence. It took 5 hours
| | |to water 115 camels.
| | |
| | |For the first 3½ hours (10 miles)
| | |after leaving this the route is
| | |very bad going, especially for
| | |cavalry, and lies along a broken
| | |wadi and many stony bits. Ground
| | |on either side rocky, hilly;
| | |efficient scouting impossible.
| | |After the broken ground the route
| | |lies over open country, and is
| | |good for cavalry.
| | |
_Um Sunt | 30 | 65 |The wells here are in a khor which
Bayuda_ | | |runs from S. to N. at this point.
| | |Only two wells were open to any
| | |depth (about 10 feet), but were
| | |quite dry. Dug in both of them,
| | |but had to desist in one after a
| | |short time, as it was too narrow
| | |for a man to work in. In the
| | |other, reached water after 3
| | |hours’ digging at a depth of 23
| | |feet below the ground level. Water
| | |flowed freely, and was good.
| | |
| | |The wells are commanded from E.
| | |and W. by high ground immediately
| | |above the river bed, and from N.
| | |and S. by hills from 100 to 150
| | |feet high at a distance of 200
| | |yards, and from N.E. by a range of
| | |hills about 800 feet high at a
| | |distance of 1 mile.
| | |
| | |Ten days later this well was
| | |revisited and found to be dry.
| | |
| | |The next 4 miles are through the
| | |Wadi Bayuda defile. Road very bad
| | |here; flanked on either side by
| | |rocky hills, which appear to run
| | |far inland on both flanks. All
| | |scouting on flanks impossible.
| | |After heavy rains a flood of 9
| | |feet deep is said to pour
| | |northwards through this defile.
| | |
| | |Two miles further on lies
| | |
_Monasieb_ | 6 | 71 |or Um-el-Nasaib. Two wide-mouthed
| | |wells; water in one of them 8 feet
| | |down. A few hods. Trees and bushes
| | |growing close around; unsuitable
| | |place for watering beasts, and
| | |unfavourable for defence.
| | |
| | |Road good to
| | |
_Um Sedeiri_ | 3 | 74 |Many wells here, mostly unused.
| | |Three wide-mouthed wells and one
| | |narrow well, newly opened in the
| | |sand, had water in them about 6
| | |feet below ground level. The water
| | |in the former was unfit for human
| | |consumption, but the camels drank
| | |it freely; the water in the latter
| | |was good. After clearing away some
| | |of the mud and slime from the
| | |large wells water came fairly
| | |freely. Also obtained a constant
| | |supply of very good clear water by
| | |digging 2 feet in one of the
| | |unused wells; the hods at these
| | |wells are not numerous, and
| | |require repairing. I consider that
| | |any amount of water can be
| | |obtained here by a little digging;
| | |it is of good quality, and appears
| | |to be about 6 feet below ground
| | |level. I was informed that there
| | |is water here all the year round.
| | |
| | |A great quantity of long coarse
| | |grass grows round the wells and on
| | |each side of the river bed. The
| | |wells are commanded from N. to
| | |S.E. by high ground from 60 to 30
| | |feet high, at distances of 500 to
| | |150 yards from N. to S.E.; also
| | |from W. by ground about 30 feet
| | |high, at distances from 80 to 100
| | |yards from S. to N. Some large
| | |trees and the long grass above-
| | |mentioned would afford cover near
| | |to the wells.
| | |
| | |The road back to Um Tub (35 miles)
| | |is good and open, with the
| | |exception of the 10 miles
| | |mentioned above.
| | |
| | |The direct road Um Sedeiri to
| | |Korti (70 miles) is good going,
| | |but no water.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

114.—MEROWE TO JAKDUL.

BY MAJOR HON. M. G. TALBOT, AUGUST, 1898.

[Sidenote: General Remarks.]

Except for patches of sand, heavy for infantry and horses, the road is good throughout, with the exception of the Magaga defile. Though the road frequently changes from one bank to the other of the Khor Abu Dom, up whose valley it generally proceeds till it crosses the watershed into the Magaga basin, none of the crossings present any difficulty; but there is always the danger in the summer months of a spate caused by rain near the head.

Firewood and camel grazing are plentiful throughout, but there is practically no grass for horses.

As far as, and including, Kalas the road may be considered as having been traversed at the driest time of year.

N.B.—Party consisted of 1 Squadron (Cavalry), and 1 Company (Camel Corps).

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Merowe | — | — |
| | |
Ghazali | 8¼ | 8¼ |General direction from Merowe, a
| | |little S. of E. No definite track.
| | |Troops can take shortest line
| | |across open plain, dotted with
| | |bushes and tabas grass. At 4 miles
| | |the Khor Abu Dom, whose very sandy
| | |bed is 100 yards wide, is struck,
| | |and the right bank ascended. At 6
| | |miles the low rocky hills close in
| | |to form a short, and very easy,
| | |defile; the hills soon recede and
| | |allow the valley to expand, and at
| | |7¼ miles the _first well_ is
| | |reached, at the foot of a low hill
| | |on right bank. A mile further on
| | |is _another well_ from which a
| | |small garden is supplied. There
| | |are one or _two water holes_ in
| | |between. Water good, plentiful,
| | |and near surface. No good camping
| | |ground.
| | |
_Hannek | 22¼ | 30½ |Road keeps up right bank of khor;
(Upper)_ | | |Geren hill at 3¾ miles marks site
| | |of well. At 5¾ miles road crosses
| | |to left bank at _Um Sayala wells_,
| | |and after 4 miles of good going
| | |through thickish scrub, Beida is
| | |reached. Both Geren and Um Sayala
| | |were said to have water, but were
| | |not visited. _Beida well_ is about
| | |20 feet deep. After a few minutes
| | |clearing out, it supplied a drink
| | |for all the horses. Good shade. At
| | |10¼ miles the road leaves the main
| | |khor, and keeps up an affluent
| | |called Ab Jowalis, which it leaves
| | |by a very low and easy saddle at
| | |14¼ miles, and after crossing the
| | |heads of many minor tributaries
| | |eventually returns to, and crosses
| | |the main bed of, the Khor Abu Dom
| | |at 20¼ miles. At ¼ to ½ mile below
| | |the point of crossing is the
| | |_Lower Hannek well_, which was not
| | |visited. After crossing, the track
| | |keeps up the right bank to _Hannek
| | |(Upper) well_ at 22¼ miles. The
| | |two wells here required clearing
| | |out, and then gave sufficient
| | |water of rather indifferent
| | |quality. Plenty of shade.
| | |
_Kalas_ | 32½ | 63 |The khor is crossed at ½ mile, and
| | |road then passes over an open
| | |plain, affording good going, until
| | |it strikes the khor again at _Um
| | |Jueiri well_ at 8½ miles. After
| | |this a few stony bits, and one or
| | |two stony ridges are crossed, with
| | |which exceptions road is excellent
| | |to _well at El Tawila_ at 14½
| | |miles. Water good; and well, after
| | |being a little cleaned out,
| | |afforded a drink for all horses,
| | |and some of the camels. Road
| | |continues good, and follows left
| | |bank of khor, except for a few
| | |hundred yards at 18½ miles, when
| | |the hills close in and drive it
| | |into the bed of the khor, under J.
| | |Lebarug. At 23½ miles it crosses a
| | |considerable branch of the khor,
| | |and at 26½ it crosses a low rocky
| | |saddle, and returns to basin of
| | |main khor Abu Dom, in bed of which
| | |at 28 miles is situated the _well
| | |of El Tueina_, lying about ⅓ mile
| | |to left of direct road to Kalas.
| | |From here to Kalas, 32½ miles, the
| | |road keeps crossing bed of khor,
| | |60 to 100 yards wide, and the
| | |narrow basin is enclosed by low
| | |irregular-shaped hills. _Two lots
| | |of wells at Kalas_, about 300
| | |yards apart. Water bad. Even after
| | |cleaning out, the horses and
| | |camels were watered with great
| | |difficulty. Little shade.
| | |
Abu Halfa | 25½ | 88½ |Road keeps up left bank over some
| | |stony ground, and crosses khor at
| | |2 miles and recrosses at 2½. After
| | |5 more miles of good going on the
| | |whole, the very low and easy
| | |saddle forming the watershed is
| | |reached at 7½ miles, and on
| | |crossing it the basin of the Wadi
| | |Magaga is entered. The road for
| | |the next 7 miles is down a
| | |gradually widening, but always
| | |stony, defile, along which it is
| | |preferable to lead horses almost
| | |the whole way. The path is mostly
| | |down the actual watercourse, which
| | |has all the characteristics of a
| | |mountain torrent. A dry water hole
| | |was passed at 10 miles, and some
| | |_pools of water_ at 13½ miles. At
| | |14½ miles the road emerges from
| | |the stony bed and crosses a low
| | |saddle at 15 miles, from which the
| | |first view of the plains to the S.
| | |is obtained. At 15¾, another low
| | |saddle is crossed, and the track
| | |then descends to the plain and
| | |keeps along the feet of the hills,
| | |crossing patches of stony ground
| | |alternating with flat khors,
| | |covered with scattered bush and
| | |thick tabas grass, to 25 miles,
| | |when it turns to left up Wadi Abu
| | |Halfa, and strikes the wells at 26
| | |miles, close to the junction of a
| | |tributary with the main khor, and
| | |at the foot of a low—but
| | |conspicuous—rocky hillock.[35]
| | |There is a _large pool_, said
| | |never to get dry, about ½ mile up
| | |the khor. Good camping ground.
| | |Some shade. Water plentiful.
| | |
_Jakdul_ | 10½ | 99 |Road crosses khor at once, and
| | |keeps straight along foot of
| | |higher hills, leaving some very
| | |low ones on its right. At 8 miles
| | |track turns to left up Wadi
| | |Jakdul, and reaches lower pool at
| | |10½ miles.
| | |
| | |The former descriptions of Jakdul
| | |still hold good, so it need not be
| | |described here. _Vide_ Route 112.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

115.—MEROWE TO BERBER, _viâ_ SANI.

BY CAPTAIN N. M. SMYTH (1897) AND COLONEL FRIEND (1902).

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Merowe | — | — |
| | |
El Dughayet | 14 | 14 |On left bank of Nile. Shaigia
| | |Arabs. Mud huts, and palms to
| | |shade one battalion in vicinity.
| | |Thorn bush and grazing for 1,000
| | |camels.
| | |
| | |A well-defined but narrow track,
| | |passable only in single or double
| | |file, leads across some rocky
| | |hills about 150 feet above level
| | |of High Nile, till at 6 miles it
| | |strikes the Khor Shingawi, which
| | |is broad and sandy, with a few
| | |scattered bushes.
| | |
Jebel El Dega | 8 | 22 |Is passed on the right of the
| | |road. From 6 to 8 miles the ground
| | |is firm, and admits usually of
| | |marching camels four abreast.
| | |
El Nus | 8 | 30 |El Nus is merely the name of a
| | |locality where the track crosses a
| | |spur from the north, whence Jebel
| | |El Ghanam is visible 10 miles
| | |north and Jebel El Khullal 5 miles
| | |south; no shade. Drainage, after
| | |Jebel El Dega crossed, flows
| | |south-west.
| | |
| | |The track generally continues
| | |good, mostly over hard shingle or
| | |firm sand. In many places several
| | |parallel tracks.
| | |
Jebel El | 10 | 40 |A rounded hill about 100 feet
Mgarfur (?) | | |high, is passed on the right. This
| | |is the first place where shade is
| | |to be got from thorn bushes. There
| | |is enough for about one battalion
| | |if scattered over about 2 square
| | |miles.
| | |
Um Geren | 5 | 45 |The well-known Arab camping
| | |ground, Um Geren, marked by a tall
| | |tree, is left ½ mile to the north
| | |of track in the wooded Khor Abu
| | |Siba.
| | |
_El Kua_ | 1½ | 46½ |The well El Kua is passed ½ mile
| | |north of track in the Khor Abu
| | |Siba. This well is 25 feet deep,
| | |and, though liable to run dry in
| | |winter, generally contains about 3
| | |feet of water from July to
| | |September.
| | |
_El Bar_ | 1½ | 48 |A similar well, El Bar, is passed
| | |½ mile to the north of track in
| | |the Khor Abu Siba, which all along
| | |here is well wooded with dom
| | |palms, sunt trees and bushes for
| | |camel grazing. Both these wells
| | |belong to the Hawawir sub-tribe of
| | |Monasir.
| | |
_Sani_ | 2 | 50 |Sani is a pool of rain-water with
| | |rock, sand, and shingle banks. It
| | |is said that the water is
| | |perennial, and if drunk dry, it
| | |refills to three-quarters former
| | |depth; more than 6 feet deep in
| | |centre. Water good; contained at
| | |time of visit about 26,000
| | |gallons. Thirty animals can drink
| | |at once; if buckets are used 60
| | |could drink. Sagias and
| | |cultivation.
| | |
_Abu Koreit_ | 14 | 64 |Many old wells, but disused, and
| | |water supply very small.
| | |
_Kurbai_ | 62 | 126 |Water, but supply bad.
| | |
_Abu Haraz_ | 19 | 145 |Well; good water.
| | |
Berber | 4 | 149 |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

116.—SANI TO EL ZUMA (NILE) _viâ_ JURA.

BY CAPTAIN ST. G. HENRY, AUGUST, 1897.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Sani Pool | — | — |Going good; in some places over
| | |rough, tussocky grass, but
| | |generally over firm sand. Features
| | |of country very indefinite, and
| | |drainage lines hard to trace;
| | |there is, however, no doubt that
| | |they all cross the track from
| | |right to left.
| | |
J. Sergein | 7 | 7 |From 6 to 8 miles the track
| | |crosses some rocky undulating
| | |ground. At 7 miles, J Sergein, or
J. El Hueish | 4 | 11 |Sargit, is left to the S., and the
| | |road passes N. of J. El Hueish, an
| | |isolated rocky hill with a patch
| | |of yellow sand halfway up.
| | |
| 21 | 32 |A branch of Wadi Argu or Argubi is
| | |now crossed. From this point J.
| | |Gormuli lay due N., and J. Ibnali
| | |(the mass of hills S. of Jura
| | |Well), lay due E.
| | |
| 15 | 47 |At 3 miles from Jura the track
| | |joins, in a branch of the Wadi
| | |Argu, the track from Kirbekan. At
| | |this point the direction of Sani
| | |bears 250 degrees magnetic
| | |(Tudway). For the next 3 miles the
| | |track winds in a south-easterly
| | |direction through low undulating
| | |hills, between the mass of the
| | |Jura range (J. Ibnali) on the
| | |right, and some sharp-pointed
| | |hills of considerable height on
| | |the left.
| | |
_Jura_ | 3 | 50 |The well at Jura is situated in a
| | |small rocky plain surrounded by
| | |hills N. of eastern end of J.
| | |Ibnali. It has been cut out of the
| | |solid rock and is about 2 feet in
| | |diameter. The water was about 6
| | |feet below the surface; it is good
| | |and sweet, and tastes like rain-
| | |water. One hundred camels were
| | |watered from it without emptying
| | |it. It is said never to dry up.
| | |There were formerly six other
| | |wells, equally good, close by, of
| | |which the marks are still visible.
| | |The natives say they only want
| | |cleaning out. Water can sometimes
| | |be got by scraping at the mouth of
| | |the khor about 110 yards distant.
| | |Near the well stands the ruin of a
| | |house, built at the time it was
| | |proposed to take the telegraph
| | |line to Berber by this route.
| | |
| | |It is a bad and confined camping
| | |ground, with very little shade,
| | |though there are a few dom palms
| | |and thorn bushes along the khor.
| | |Heat and dust very great.
| | |
| | |A flood is said to come down the
| | |khor once almost every year. The
| | |drainage appears to go to Wadi
| | |Argu.
| | |
El Zuma | 35 | 85 |On left bank Nile, opposite El
| | |Shereik. Government Rest House and
| | |ferry. There is also Rest House at
| | |Shereik.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

117.—JURA TO KIRBEKAN (ABOUT 1 MILE S.W. OF SITE OF BATTLE).

BY MAJOR TUDWAY AND CAPTAIN ST. G. HENRY, AUGUST, 1897.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Jura | — | — |
| | |
Wadi Argu | 3 | 3 |For the first 3 miles the track
| | |winds through low hills between
| | |main mass (J. Ibnali) and the two
| | |pointed hills to N. At 3 miles it
| | |strikes a branch of the Wadi Argu
| | |or Argubi. Here the Sani track
| | |branches off at a bearing of 250
| | |degrees magnetic, and the general
| | |direction of Kirbekan is 305
| | |degrees magnetic. The track
| | |continues in a north-westerly
| | |direction over undulating ground,
| | |draining from right to left to the
| | |Wadi Argu, passing a low hill
| | |called J. Barga, and striking into
| | |a main branch of the Wadi Argu,
| | |along which the road runs over an
| | |excellent track with good grazing
| | |and plenty of trees.
| | |
| 30 | 33 |At about 33 miles out from Jura,
| | |J. Gormuli, which is visible
| | |nearly the whole way, lay due N.
| | |
| | |As far as the 45th mile (Henry)
| | |the route continues to follow the
| | |Wadi Argu, when it turns up a khor
| | |to the left, and after some 11
| | |miles of a narrow, rocky pathway,
| | |descends to the river S.W. of J.
| | |Musa, the hill on which Kirbekan
| | |Battle was fought.
| | |
Kirbekan | 21 | 54 |The Wadi Argu joins the Nile at
| | |Kirbekan village. For the last 15
| | |miles of its course the trees and
| | |vegetation increase, and from the
| | |number of dom palms it is probable
| | |that water would be found near the
| | |surface. There is usually water in
| | |a rain pool, called El Sihani, 10
| | |or 12 miles from the river.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

118.—OMDURMAN TO GABRA.

BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT, R.E., NOVEMBER, 1903.

[Sidenote: General remarks.]

The only obstacles to taking a bee line for Gabra are the Abu Meru or Merkhait hills, which have to be skirted either on the N. or on the S., and the Goz Abu Delua which has to be crossed. The latter is a belt of undulating ground, covered lightly with sand in some places, and perhaps heavily in others, running generally in N.N.E. by S.S.W. direction and probably varying in width. The best place to cross it is at the Hanakat El Goz, where a khor cuts its way through it. This may be looked on as an obligatory point, and it is here and round the northern and southern sides of the Merkhiat hills only that one sees signs of a definite path until within a few miles of the wells. After rain, water is said to stand in a place called Shegeig or Mushgeig near the Goz, otherwise there is no water on the road. After passing the Merkhait hills firewood abounds and grass was plentiful at the time of this journey. Trees are chiefly “samr” with a few “kittr,” “heglig,” and other bushes. There is no “hashab” as stated on Khartoum Sheet. A great deal of spear grass is met with, and the guide informed me that, but for his skilful leading, I should have met much more.

Owing to the absence of any track and the tussocky nature of the “tabas” grass, the going is not good, except in the neighbourhood of the Id Ennala.

The distances given in this route report are obtained by assuming the camels to have marched at about 2½ miles an hour, checked by measuring wheel; but the route taken was far from straight.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Omdurman | — | — |Left old steamer workshops, turned
| | |N. at corner of Sur wall and, when
| | |clear of houses, made straight for
| | |Abu Meru hills; halted N. of them;
| | |a little grass; no firewood.
Abu Meru | 8½ | 8½ |Distance from Khartoum Sheet.
| | |
| | |On clearing hills track
| | |disappeared. “Tabas” grass and
| | |“samr.”
| | |
_Stony ridge_ | 14 | 22½ |Crossed by stony ridge.
| | |
| | |Crossed by another stony ridge.
| | |
| | |Crossed Khor Um Muherib (?) said
| | |to flow into Id Ennala; not a very
| | |apparent drainage line.
| | |
Id Ennala | 14¼ | 36¾ |After passing one or two very
| | |minor khors, crossed Id Ennala;
| | |much “tabas” and “spear” grass.
| | |Many “samr” and a few “heglig” and
| | |“kittr” trees. Good grazing.
| | |Ground rather broken in a very
| | |small way, but difficult for
| | |camels at night.
| | |
_Shegeig_ | 8¼ | 45 |Passed a place on right called
| | |Shegeig or Mushgeig, where water
| | |stands after rain, and crossed to
| | |further side of Goz Abu Delua
| | |which had long been visible on
| | |left, parallel to route we
| | |followed. About a mile wide. The
| | |Hanakat is about 40 yards to 60
| | |yards wide and full of “marakh”
| | |bushes. It is said the old
| | |Government tried to find water
| | |here, but failed. It is said to
| | |join the Shegeig, which is joined
| | |by the Id Ennala and falls into
| | |Nile at Wadi Bishara.
| | |
| | |From up stream end of Hanak, Gabra
| | |is not visible, but the guide
| | |pointed it out as on 300°
| | |magnetic.
| | |
| | |The Hanakat seems to have but a
| | |small basin W. of Goz.
| | |
| | |Continued over slightly undulating
| | |plain with grass and scattered
| | |bushes.
| | |
| | |Passed some dura cultivation on
| | |left. Seemed a poor crop.
| | |
Wadi Mogaddam | 10 | 55 |Turned more to N.N.E. and dropped
| | |over low stony ridge into the
| | |valley of the Wadi Mogaddam. Well
| | |but not densely wooded. Marched on
_Gabra wells_ | 3½ | 58½ |bearing 330° magnetic to wells.
| | |
| | |There are at least 15 wells of 60
| | |to 70 feet depth. They water a
| | |very large number of animals
| | |daily. Level of water fluctuates
| | |with rain, after which the whole
| | |of the ground round the wells is
| | |said to be underwater. Remains of
| | |Dervish mud fort, circular, 12
| | |yards diameter, loop-holed towards
| | |north, bears about 150° from
| | |wells, which are 400 yards
| | |distant; short shelter trench E.
| | |of wells. No remains of zeriba.
| | |
| | |Many Kababish with large flocks
| | |and herds.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

119.—GABRA TO KORTI.

BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT, DECEMBER, 1903.

[Sidenote: General remarks.]

Till within a few miles of Korti the Wadi Mogaddam was practically followed throughout. It seems not to be used at all as a caravan road, as there is no track and no caravans were met. At the same time it seems an easy road to Omdurman, and very straight as far as Gabra.

The country passed through is flat and uninteresting. No hills of any remarkable height were seen, the highest being to the W. and N.W. of Gabra.

None of those near the route exceed 200 feet to 250 feet, relative height.

The Wadi Mogaddam consists of a depression marked by a belt of trees or grass, without any water channel whatever. Evidently there is never any flow of water on the surface of the wadi.

The belt of trees varies in width and character. At Gabra it must be nearly ¾ mile wide, and thick though not dense. There are some good “sayal,” “heglig,” “tundub,” and “samr” trees; lower down the trees diminish in size, the “sayal” is rarely met, and with the exception of a little “arak” and “kurmet” there is hardly anything but “samr” to be seen, with “tundub” in places. From Gaerin “selem” begins to be seen, and soon it becomes the principal growth.

Below Um Harot no grass was seen except burnt-up “tabas,” but that must depend on the year. On the whole, grazing for camels was very fair, but practically none for horses.

The line taken presented no difficulties whatever in the way of rocks or gradients. From a camel point of view there is no heavy sand, but it is not recommended as a route for motor-cars.

No supplies to be obtained except sheep and milk. Firewood is plentiful everywhere. Water seemed good everywhere except at Um Harot, where it was a little salt. The wells are all about 120 to 140 feet deep, except at Gabra, where they were 60 feet to 70 feet.

A guide is indispensable. With a guide there is no difficulty in marching by moonlight.