Chapter VII: (bahr El Ghazal.) (1)

* * * * *

51.—MESHRA EL REK TO TONJ.

BY CAPTAIN H. D. W. LLOYD, JANUARY, 1904.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Meshra El Rek | — | — |Leaving the Nuzl, the track
| | |crosses a khor some 15 feet deep,
| | |by a bridge partly under water.
| | |After 100 yards bridge ends and
| | |you wade waist deep for 3 miles.
| | |
_Camp_ | 3½ | 3½ |Always dry, but mosquitoes very
| | |bad. Good water all the year
| | |round. Very bad track leading due
| | |S. between grass 7 feet high.
| | |Ground much cut up by cattle
| | |passing in the rains.
| | |
Unangarp | 7½ | 11 |A few Dinka tukls; no supplies N.
| | |boundary of Lau district. Head
| | |Sheikh Kwitol.
| | |
_Manashin_ | 2 | 13 |Water holes, which are said never
| | |to dry up completely, situated on
| | |W. of track. Good camp, well
| | |marked by a deleib growing out of
| | |centre of gemmeiza tree on track.
| | |No supplies.
| | |
| | |Track continues nearly due S.,
| | |winds a great deal, and much cut
| | |up. Bad going for man and beast.
| | |
_War Lai_ | 6¾ | 19¾ |A swamp, 300 yards W. of track. It
| | |is said never to dry up; 300 by
| | |200 yards. Fair drinking water.
| | |Animals easily watered by digging
| | |trenches.
| | |
_Fulbar_ | 6 | 25¾ |Road through an open forest, grass
| | |lately burnt. Track better, but
| | |much broken in places by old
| | |elephant tracks. Fulbar is a large
| | |swamp, said never to dry up. Many
| | |elephant tracks. Good water.
| | |
| | |Leaving the pool, the track joins
| | |the main road a mile on. Fair
| | |track.
| | |
_Amangnok_ | 7 | 32¾ |A large swamp, good water, lasts
| | |all the year, on W. of track,
| | |which goes S. to Marra Alangjok,
| | |passing the village of Sheikh
| | |Angong Marial.
| | |
Mana Alangjok | — | — |A large Dinka cattle enclosure,
| | |well-known throughout this
| | |district.
| | |
_War Gel_ | 7 | 39¾ |Pools in a swamp. Water said to
| | |last all the year. Bad shade.
| | |Half-a mile on Sheikh Tioing’s
| | |house is passed on the N. of the
| | |road, and Sheikh Malwal Mabior’s
| | |village over a mile long is left
| | |to the W.
| | |
_Haleik_ | 7 | 46¾ |A swamp, left to W. of road, water
| | |said to last all the year. Track
| | |generally good, but cut up by
| | |elephants in places. Sheikh Wal
| | |Mabior’s village is entered 2
| | |miles from Ateim swamp.
| | |
_Wal Mabior’s,| 5 | 51¾ |A mile wide from E. to W., and 1½
or Ateim_ | | |miles from N. to S. Very good and
| | |plentiful water.
| | |
_Mowok_ | 2 | 53¾ |A swamp 1 mile E. of road. Very
| | |good track through open country.
| | |Heglig trees and little bush.
| | |
_Mabior Dod’s_| 2 | 55¾ |Large swamps. Good water; called
| | |Katoi. Fair shade. Good track
| | |through rather open and perfectly
| | |level country. Soil sandy in
| | |places.
| | |
_Again Well, | 5 | 60¾ |Small water holes, little water.
Ewal Gor’s_ | | |There is a good deal of
| | |cultivation about, and Dinka huts
| | |every few hundred yards.
| | |
_Sheikh Bak | 4 | 64¾ |Four bad and one good water holes.
Bong Yep’s_ | | |Latter known as Abaing, after a
| | |small tree near it; watered 200
| | |men easily. The four other holes
| | |just satisfied 100 donkeys. Fair
| | |shade. Obtained some dura.
| | |
_Teing Teing | 1 | 65¾ |One fair well, or rather hole;
well_ | | |water for 30 or 40 men. Good going
| | |on the whole.
| | |
“Dug-Dug” | 4 | 69¾ |Site of an old cattle enclosure,
(ruins) | | |marked by some mounds of earth and
| | |some usher bushes.
| | |
_Atubbu_ | 11 | 80¾ |One water hole; dirty water, but
| | |enough to give 200 men a drink.
| | |
_Aweid_ | 2 | 82¾ |A small swamp, but plenty of fair
| | |water. Fair shade under heglig
| | |trees. Track passes across an open
| | |plain covered with grass, which in
| | |places is 10 feet high. Few trees,
| | |but trees of the Tonj valley seen
| | |in the distance to the S. Bad
| | |going for first 3 miles, then very
| | |good.
| | |
Atang’s (N. | 4¼ | 87 |The direct road to Tonj Post leads
end) | | |to the W.S.W. Another, down a
| | |khor, in which are several water-
_R. Tonj_ | 3 | 90 |holes strikes the River Tonj.
| | |Small camp on left bank. The river
| | |bed is 65 yards wide and 15 feet
| | |deep. Water 25 yards wide and 18
| | |inches deep. Good water; sandy
| | |bottom. No mosquitoes.
| | |
| | |Leaving the river the track for 3
| | |miles goes through long grass,
| | |then crosses a plain; grass at
| | |first, then covered with grass and
| | |bush.
| | |
_Abuior Sheikh| 9 | 99 |A small water hole (War Rual) on
Maton’s and | | |W. of track at N. end of Sheikh
War Rual_ | | |Matoin’s village (Abui). There are
| | |a few more wells to the W., but
| | |the best water is a mile to the E.
| | |in a swamp. Good shade near road.
| | |
_War Tit_ | 2 | 101 |A pool 50 by 30 yards, now dry.
| | |There is a small water hole near
| | |the road.
| | |
| | |Very good track through bush, with
| | |many large trees, until within a
| | |mile of the river, when a belt of
| | |forest is entered.
| | |
Tonj River | 5 | 106 |
Post | | |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

A great part of the above road is under water during the rains, and only passable to carriers.

52.—WAU TO MESHRA EL REK.

BY CAPTAIN H. D. W. LLOYD, MARCH, 1904.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
| | |The following is the Government
| | |route and is used by all convoys:—
| | |
Wau | — | — |Crossing the river Jur, the track
| | |enters high grass for a mile until
| | |the E. side of the valley is
| | |reached. Then thick bush and
| | |ironstone ridges.
| | |
_Sheikh | 4 | 4 |Rest house and well 150 yards S.
Malwal’s new | | |of track. Track continues over
village (Jur)_| | |ironstone ridges, but bush is much
| | |more open near the track.
| | |
_P. Rumbashia_| 5¾ | 9¾ |A rain pool 30 yards by 20 yards;
| | |3 feet 6 inches deep when full;
| | |now contains 18 inches water.
| | |Halting place for bull transport.
| | |A quarter-mile on there are 3 more
| | |small pools in the rock.
| | |
_Sheikh | 1¼ | 11 |Jur name Rurruish. Rest house, 2
Malwal’s old | | |tukls, 1 shelter, and good well.
village (Jur)_| | |Water trough. Bush now becomes
| | |thick; many deserted villages
| | |passed.
| | |
_Sheikh | 12 | 23 |So called, but he has now moved
Moyen’s | | |some way N. of the road, rest
(Dinka)_ | | |house, 2 tukls, 2 sheds, and 1
| | |rekuba. Well with good water. The
| | |ironstone formation is left.
| | |
| | |Track over level plain, now dry
| | |and covered with high grass, would
| | |be very wet in rains. A few Dinka
| | |houses are seen, many deserted
| | |ones passed.
| | |
_Water hole_ | 9½ | 32½ |Six feet deep, 8 feet in diameter,
| | |good, but much discoloured water.
| | |Used by Aiyum’s people.
| | |
_Sheikh | 2½ | 35 |Extensive Dinka village chiefly N.
Aiyum’s | | |of road. Rest house, 2 tukls, 2
(Dinka)_ | | |shelters, and large tukl for the
| | |bull transport.
| | |
| | |Open grass-covered plain with
| | |scattered trees. Swampy in rains.
| | |Mosquitoes troublesome.
| | |
_Bir El Jaalin| 7 | 42 |Old wells in clump of deleib
(Arab), Malau | | |palms, site of old village.
(Dinka)_ | | |
| | |
_Deleiba_ | 8 | 50 |Rest house, 3 tukls, 1 bad well;
| | |water gave out after 30 men had
| | |drawn their water, but well
| | |refills quickly. Many deleib
| | |palms. Mosquitoes.
| | |
| | |Track winds to avoid the bush,
| | |which is thick some 200 yards away
| | |from the track W.
| | |
“_Dug-Dug_” | 5 | 55 |Rest house, Dinka name Noi. 3
| | |tukls and 2 good wells.
| | |
| | |Track again winds about to avoid
| | |the thick bush. Very thick grass
| | |in places.
| | |
_Bir El Gurud_| 6 | 61 |Rest house, 3 tukls. Two wells
| | |(one now dry), 8 feet deep. Good,
| | |but muddy water. After passing
| | |through a belt of bush 300 yards
| | |wide the country becomes perfectly
| | |flat and open. Covered with high
| | |grass and scattered trees. Little
| | |bush anywhere. The going is bad as
| | |the track from here to Meshra. is
| | |mostly under water during the
| | |rains.
| | |
_Old wells | 7½ | 68½ |Could not obtain name. A well-
near single | | |known place and site of old Dinka
deleib palm_ | | |village.
| | |
_Sheikh | 3½ | 72 |So called. Sheikh Bok is the chief
Gadein’s_ | | |man. A large village. Rest house,
| | |2 good tukls, 1 shelter. Good
| | |water from wells. Depôt for bull
| | |transport. Road and country as
| | |before.
| | |
_Gemmeiza | 9 | 81 |Well-known halting place, as there
tree_ | | |is a pool 50 yards in diameter
| | |which holds water for some 6 or 8
| | |weeks after the rains.
| | |
_Rest house W.| 6 | 87 |Two tukls and shelter under
end of Sheikh | | |gemmeiza tree. Wells dry 13th
Mayik’s | | |March, 1904. Route winds much
village_ | | |through the village.
| | |
_Rest house E.| 5½ | 92½ |Two tukls, 1 shelter under a
end of Sheikh | | |single deleib palm. One well 15
Mayik’s | | |feet deep, 8 feet in diameter, 3
village | | |feet of good clear water. No
(Dinka)_ | | |people seen; they are said to have
| | |gone down to the river with their
| | |cattle.
| | |
| | |Country good, level, and open as
| | |before; but track somewhat better.
| | |
| | |Three miles from the rest house
| | |there is a water hole 50 yards S.
| | |of track near a small deleib palm,
| | |8 feet deep, 10 feet in diameter;
| | |good water.
| | |
_Sheikh | 9 | 101½ |Rest house at W. end of village; 3
Madal’s | | |good tukls, 1 shelter, good well.
(Dinka)_ | | |Dinka name of well Atien ful. The
| | |native houses are chiefly on the
| | |N. side of the wood and ½ a mile
| | |away.
| | |
_War Kul_ | 4¾ | 106¼ |(War = pool) Pool 20 yards by 10
| | |yards. Good water situated in a
| | |swamp now dry. There is a clump of
| | |bush on higher ground 100 yards
| | |N., which would be a dry spot for
| | |a camp.
| | |
_Sheikh | 1¾ | 108 |Rest house. Two tukls and well, at
Amien’s | | |W. end of village which is
(Dinka)_ | | |scattered along the route for 3
| | |miles. Road has been cleared in
| | |the village and ruts caused by
| | |traffic in rains filled up. The
| | |going then becomes bad. Black
| | |soil; grass, and a few scattered
| | |trees. Three miles from Meshra,
| | |high grass and a swamp is entered.
| | |Going very bad and water waist-
| | |deep in places. Close to the Nuzl
| | |a khor is crossed by a bridge, but
| | |it is now 2 feet 6 inches under
| | |water.
| | |
_Meshra El | 11 | 119 |
Rek_ | | |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

53.—TONJ POST TO WAU.

BY CAPTAIN H. D. W. LLOYD, FEBRUARY, 1904.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
| | |The whole of this road is over
| | |ironstone ridges, except where it
| | |is crossed by khors. The going is
| | |good and in many places the bush
| | |has been cleared. It is proposed
| | |to clear a route from Tonj Post,
| | |_viâ_ Jur Ghatas to Kawagana, and
| | |thence follow this route to Wau.
| | |
| | |There was sufficient water
| | |everywhere in February, 1904,
| | |along this route for 300 men and
| | |100 mules.
| | |
Tonj Post | — | — |The route follows the left bank of
| | |the river Ba, at first, to Morgan
| | |Bongo’s house, and thence bears
| | |slightly N. of W. Good track, but
| | |thick bush, and grass on both
| | |sides until within a mile of
| | |Aiidu’s wells, when cultivation is
| | |entered.
| | |
_Sheikh | 10 | 10 |A small Jur village, to W. of
Aiidu’s_ | | |which is the rest house; 2 good
| | |tukls. Good water from wells.
| | |
| | |Track continues through thick bush
| | |and grass, crossing some grass
| | |covered swamps, now dry.
| | |Ironstone, good going. A mile from
| | |the next rest house the track
| | |descends a steep bank, 81 feet
| | |high, and crosses a small khor.
| | |
_River house | 8½ | 18½ |On right bank. One good hut, but
at River | | |little shade near. Water from
Mulmul_ | | |pools in bed of river. The track
| | |now crosses the valley of the
| | |River Mulmul, which is flat,
| | |covered with thick grass, and very
| | |swampy in the rains. There is a
| | |khor on the left bank of valley,
| | |and some wells 2 feet deep. Good
| | |and plentiful water. Route passes
| | |through Sheikh Agan’s village and
| | |over a stony ridge to the rest
| | |house.
| | |
Rest house, | 4½ | 23 |The village is called Mudi. Two
_Sheikh | | |good tukls. Water from wells in
Agan’s_ (Jur) | | |River Mulmul.
| | |
| | |Good track, but much high grass.
| | |
_Sheikh | 3½ | 26½ |A small village with little
Arum’s_ | | |cultivation. Two tukls for rest
(Bilanda) | | |house. Road now winds a good deal
| | |through high grass and bush, and
| | |crosses several places that are
| | |swampy in the rains.
| | |
_Sheikh | 6½ | 33 |Rest house of 2 tukls and a
Akuong_ (Jur) | | |rekuba; water from well.
| | |
_Munga well_ | 2½ | 35½ |There is a small rekuba on N. of
| | |road. The wells are 300 yards S.,
| | |and consist of 3 holes 4 feet deep
| | |with 2 feet of good water, which
| | |flows in quickly. Full of frogs.
| | |Immediately beyond cultivation and
| | |the village commence.
| | |
_Sheikh | 1½ | 37 |Rest house is at N. end of
Kangor’s_ | | |village. Four tukls, water from
| | |Manga well. Bush and high grass.
| | |Route crosses one place that must
| | |be very wet in the rains.
| | |
_Kawagana_ | 3½ | 40½ |A rock-pool 60 yards by 25 yards,
| | |and 2 feet 6 inches deep. Good
| | |clean water, said to last all the
| | |year. Rain water; no spring. Two
| | |tukls, bush thick. The direct road
| | |from Tonj Post, _viâ_ Jur Ghatas,
| | |comes in here.
| | |
Khor | 4 | 44½ |300 yards wide and 30 feet deep,
| | |ironstone sides; no water. Only 80
| | |yards show signs of being swampy
| | |in the rains. Track crosses
| | |another khor and then ascends a
| | |ridge (60 feet) which it follows
| | |for 2 miles and then descends into
| | |Khor Mbili, where there is a rest
| | |house with ghafir.
| | |
Rest house in | 4 | 48½ |Three tukls. Water from wells in
_Khor Mbili_ | | |khor. Road has been cleared for 2
| | |miles on each side.
| | |
Khor Tala | 3 | 51½ |20 yards wide and 10 feet deep,
| | |bridged. Route now ascends an
| | |ironstone ridge for a mile and
| | |then winds round it. Wide valley
| | |to the E., with deleib palms. 3¼
| | |miles from next rest-house there
| | |is a steep ascent of 50 feet. Bad
| | |going. The track then crosses
| | |greyish soil for a mile and again
| | |passes over ironstone rock.
| | |
Rest house, | 9 | 60½ |Eight tukls (4 old). Many deleib
“The | | |palms about. Good water from
_Deleib’s_” | | |wells. For the next 3 miles there
| | |is thick bush. The grassy valley
| | |of the Khor Abongo is then struck.
| | |
_Khor Abongo_ | 4 | 64½ |Khor which is 20 yards wide and 10
| | |feet deep, bridged. The river Jur
| | |is now to the W. of the track
| | |which follows its right bank,
| | |between the high grass which
| | |covers the valley and an ironstone
| | |ridge 30 to 50 feet high, covered
| | |with very thick bush. Wau is seen
| | |on the left bank.
| | |
| | |East of Wau the track crosses the
| | |valley (1 mile wide) through very
| | |high grass. The river Jur here is
| | |on the W. side of the valley, 100
| | |yards wide with banks from 15 to
| | |20 feet high. On 3rd February,
| | |1904, there was 2 feet 9 inches
| | |water in the ford. Sandy bottom.
| | |
Wau | 5½ | 70 |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

54.—TONJ TO RIKTA’S VILLAGE.

BY CAPTAIN H. D. W. LLOYD, FEBRUARY, 1904.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
| | |There is no obstacle on this route
| | |to the movement of men, mules or
| | |donkeys, during the dry season.
| | |But a very little rain would make
| | |many of the khors impassable to
| | |animals. The river Ba during the
| | |rains would have to be crossed in
| | |boats. There was ample water for
| | |500 men and 300 mules or donkeys.
| | |The route lies chiefly over
| | |ironstone rock, with black
| | |alluvial soil in and near the
| | |khors.
| | |
Tonj River | — | — |Leaving the fort the road follows
Post | | |the left bank of the river Ba;
| | |good track.
| | |
Khor | 3 | 3 |20 yards wide, 5 feet deep, muddy
| | |bottom, if not bridged would be a
| | |serious obstacle. Track skirts the
| | |forest.
| | |
River Ba | 3 | 6 |The actual valley is 1½ miles
| | |wide, alluvial soil covered with
| | |grass 6 to 8 feet high, now dry.
| | |The river channel 75 yards wide,
| | |12 feet deep, and has been bank
| | |full of water this year. Water in
| | |January 30 yards wide, 20 inches
| | |deep, sandy bottom. No difficulty
| | |in ascending banks.
| | |
| | |There is now a slight track only.
| | |The route followed the edge of the
| | |forest on the right bank of the
| | |river Ba. Good going, but the
| | |khors running into the river would
| | |be difficult after rain. Water for
| | |drinking obtained from khors.
| | |
13th mile | 7 | 13 |Route leaves valley of river Ba
| | |and follows the right bank of Khor
| | |Sunni. Good going, khor from 50 to
| | |1000 yards from route which
| | |followed the edge of the forest.
| | |Bush seldom very thick, but grass
| | |troublesome in places.
| | |
Pool Dam Lkobo| 20½ | 33½ |Route crosses to left bank of Khor
| | |Sunni 20 feet deep, 3 yards wide
| | |at bottom, 25 yards wide at top;
| | |running water 6 inches deep.
| | |
Pool Gutti | 2 | 35½ |Large pool in khor, said never to
| | |dry up. Guide was not very sure of
| | |name, but place unmistakable. Bare
| | |ironstone running from edge of
| | |forest to khor. Running water now
| | |ceases and the only water is in
| | |pools.
| | |
| | |Route crosses several shallow but
| | |wide khors full of elephant
| | |tracks; high grass.
| | |
Da Kobi | 12 | 47½ |(Called by another guide, Akkuir).
| | |Da = pool in Bongo. Dirty water
| | |but quite drinkable.
| | |
Pool Dormunga | 6½ | 54 |Pool 100 yards long in khor, very
| | |good water. Good shade near; road
| | |crosses several ironstone ridges
| | |and some low ground now dry, but
| | |would be very swampy in rains.
| | |
Pool Higoli | 7½ | 61½ |Pool in khor. Good water. Good
| | |going but thick bush.
| | |
Pool Kunga | 44¾ | 66¼ |Pool in a khor running into Khor
| | |Sunni, 80 yards in diameter, good
| | |clean water. Said always to
| | |contain water.
| | |
Minobolo | 4¾ | 71 |Two miles before reaching
| | |Minobolo, two deleib palms are
| | |seen and the track crosses a small
| | |khor. For 1½ miles this khor
| | |contains a succession of pools.
| | |Minobolo is the site of an old
| | |slave dealers’ zeriba, 30 feet
| | |above khor. Water said to last all
| | |the year.
| | |
| | |The route follows the Khor Sunni,
| | |crossing it twice and passing
| | |several small pools.
| | |
Pool Riggu | 8 | 79 |In the midst of many deleib palms,
| | |good water. Much game about. This
| | |is the last pool on the Khor
| | |Sunni.
| | |
| | |The country now rises slowly until
| | |the route passes between two red
| | |ironstone hills (rising 100 feet
| | |above the track) covered with
| | |bush. The route then descends and
| | |enters the valley of the Khor
| | |Takor which flows S.W. to the
| | |river Ba.
| | |
Toko | 5½ | 84½ |Pool of good water; said to last
| | |all the year.
| | |
Da Higi | 2½ | 87 |Pool of good water; said to last
| | |all the year. Site of old Bongo
| | |village. Route now follows right
| | |bank. Good going.
| | |
Ungulu | 2¼ | 89¼ |Pool in khor; drying up rapidly in
| | |February. Route crosses to left
| | |bank, and a mile on there is a
| | |large grey granite rock 30 feet
| | |high, 50 yards in diameter.
| | |
Mungola | 2¾ | 93 |Pool in khor; said never to dry
| | |up. Good water; some bad going due
| | |to elephant tracks.
| | |
Dih | 3 | 96 |Several large pools which are said
| | |never to dry up. Good shade.
| | |
| | |From here to Higola pool there are
| | |two routes, an eastern and a
| | |western. The former is the better
| | |going but the latter has more
| | |water on it.
| | |
| | | WESTERN ROUTE.
| | |
| | |Follows the Khor Takor for 2
| | |miles, then turns S., crosses the
| | |Khor Teih at the Pool Ngomala, and
| | |half a mile on enters valley of
| | |the Khor Biuku, which flows
| | |northwards and westwards to River
| | |Ba; much bush and grass. Three
| | |miles from Ngomala, route crosses
| | |khor; rocky ground, bad going.
| | |After 7 miles, Angaga, a pool in
| | |Khor Biuku, is reached. Water said
| | |to be dry up; much high grass. A
| | |mile S., route again crosses the
| | |khor and ascends an ironstone
| | |ridge, which it follows for 5
| | |miles; good going; to Higola 5½
| | |miles, a pool fed by a spring,
| | |situated on E. side of ridge in
| | |the Khor Todor.
| | |
| | | EASTERN ROUTE.
| | |
| | |Route goes nearly S.E. for 2½
| | |miles, then turns lightly W. of S.
| | |
Khor Teih | 2½ | 98½ |Now nearly dry. One or two small
| | |dirty pools. Khor 20 yards wide, 8
| | |feet deep, steep banks. Flows W.
| | |to River Ba. A mile and a half on
| | |the Khor Todor is seen E. of route
| | |which follows the left bank to
| | |Higola. Good going skirting the
| | |bush. Valley of khor full of high
| | |grass. The Khor Todor flows
| | |northwards into the Khor Teih.
| | |
Higola | 5½ | 107 |Bad going for first 2 miles,
| | |ascending a rocky ironstone ridge.
| | |Thick bush. Then along the level
| | |for 2 miles, when the end of the
| | |ridge is reached. There is then a
| | |rapid but easy descent of nearly
| | |200 feet to the Khor Veitatei.
| | |Route followed right bank to the
| | |River Ba, but it is better to
| | |cross the khor from 1 to 2 miles
| | |before reaching the river.
| | |
River Ba | 11 | 118 |Forty yards wide and unfordable,
| | |with slight current E. to W.;
| | |following the bank for a mile
| | |through high grass and crossing
| | |the Khor Veitatei the river bends
| | |S. Near a large Bolo tree. S. of
| | |this tree is a good ford. Water 2
| | |feet 6 inches deep. Sandy bottom.
| | |
| | |Right bank easy, left bank had to
| | |be ramped. Good shade on right
| | |bank. None on left.
| | |
| | |Route now nearly due S., through
| | |high grass. Near River Ba for 2
| | |miles. Then crosses a small khor
| | |with running water and ascends a
| | |hill to Sheikh Toin’s, the River
| | |Ba being left to the eastwards.
| | |
Sheikh Toin | 5¼ | 123¼ |Village burnt 11th February.
| | |Situated on top of a grey
| | |sandstone hill. Water from pool in
| | |Khor Maposho, a mile S. From this
| | |village to Rikta’s there is a good
| | |track. Much bush and high grass.
| | |
Khor Maposho | 5¾ | 129 |Track again crosses the khor. Two
| | |good pools. Long grass and thick
| | |bushes.
| | |
Hukwar’s | 7 | 136 |Small place. Good pools ¼ mile
| | |N.W. Burnt 10th February. Track
| | |continues through high grass and
| | |bush for 4½ miles to the first
| | |houses of Rikta’s village.
| | |
Khor Menza | 5½ | 141½ |A narrow but deep khor with
| | |thickly wooded banks. Many pools
| | |both above and below track.
| | |
| | |High grass, with clearings for
| | |cultivation: dura, telibun and
| | |maize (very little).
| | |
Khor Nabazibi | ¾ | 142¼ |A large khor, with thickly wooded
| | |banks. Many pools of good water,
| | |both above and below track. Was
| | |bridged by Rikta, but bridge
| | |burnt. There must be 7 feet of
| | |water in the khor at times. The
| | |width varies from 30 to 60 yards
| | |wide, the more narrow portions
| | |being between ironstone rock.
| | |
Rikta’s | — | — |The Sheik’s house (burnt 10th
| | |February, 1904) was 250 yards from
| | |the bridge. The village was
| | |scattered along the higher ground
| | |on both banks of the Khor
| | |Nabazibi. Except where cleared for
| | |cultivation, the country is
| | |covered with scattered trees and
| | |high grass.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

55.—WAU TO TEMBURA.

BY CAPTAIN A. B. BETHEL, R.A., AUGUST, 1904.

[Sidenote: Water, etc.]

In the dry season, I consider that this road would present a good many difficulties in the way of water supply for troops or animal transport using it.

[Sidenote: Transport.]

In the wet season, the road is only fit for carrier transport, as many of the khors are so full that it would entail swimming the animals across, and carrying the baggage over by hand; bridging one or two more of the khors would assist matters a good deal, but the River Bo is too wide for a bridge to be thrown across it, and I think it quite possible that these small native-made bridges would be swept away in the deep khors. A small Berthon boat is indispensable to anyone using this road in the wet season.

[Sidenote: Track and country.]

The track is a well marked one the whole way. After leaving the Zeriba of Kutsuk Ali, the country becomes undulating till Khor Abera is reached, and there are several ridges, with steep ascents and descents; from this, the track is fairly flat till it reaches Tembura’s village, though, S. of Gedi’s village, it runs along the foot of the Undili Mountains. In the wet season, the track is very much overgrown with grass and short scrub to the S. of Ali’s Babai; N. of it, the grass is not so high, nor so thick, but the going is bad, as much of the track is under water, and it is especially so between Khors Gullamba and Gumbola.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Wau | — | — |
| | |
River Wau | 4 | — |Good ford in dry season, about 2·6
| | |to 3 feet deep.
| | |
_Sheikh Kwol’s| 10 | 14 |3 rest houses, well in village,
village_ (Rest| | |river 2 miles away.
house) | | |
| | |
_Zeriba Kutsuk| 3 | 17 |2 small wells close to Zeriba.
Ali_ | | |
| | |
Khor Kossukali| 12 | 29 |2 rest houses.
(Rest house) | | |
| | |
_Khor Abera_ | 5 | 34 |2 rest houses, water all the year.
(Rest house) | | |
| | |
Khor Tela | 7 | 41 |2 rest houses.
(Rest house) | | |
| | |
_Khor Borda_ | 9 | 50 |Water said to be in a pool here
| | |all the year.
| | |
Khor Nyeka | 9 | 59 |2 rest houses.
(Rest house) | | |
| | |
_Khor Gumbala_| 10 | 69 |2 rest houses, water said to be in
(Rest house) | | |pools all the year.
| | |
_Khor | 11 | 80 |1 rest house, deep khor, 5 feet
Gullamba_ | | |deep in wet season, water probably
(Rest house) | | |all the year. Rest house.
| | |
Khor Gomereh | 3 | 83 |
| | |
_Khor Deboka_ | 16 | 99 |Deep khor, water all the year,
and Sheikh | | |Tukls in old village still intact.
Ali’s Babai | | |2 rest houses.
(Rest house) | | |
| | |
_River Bo_ | 12 | 111 |2 rest houses, easily crossed in
(Rest house) | | |dry season; boat necessary in wet
| | |season, as it is 80 yards wide.
| | |Water all the year.
| | |
_Khor Gutti_ | 19 | 130 |Water probably all the year.
| | |
_Sheikh Wura’s| 6 | 136 |2 rest houses, water all the year.
village_ | | |
(Belanda) | | |
(Rest house) | | |
| | |
_Gedi’s | 12 | 148 |1 Tukl and 1 Dahr-El-Tor, water
village_ (Rest| | |all the year.
house) | | |
| | |
_River Duma_ | 19 | 167 |Bridge, water all the year.
| | |
_Sheikh | 6 | 173 |Water all the year.
Bumangedi’s | | |
son’s village_| | |
| | |
_River Yebbo_ | 6 | 179 |Bridge, water all the year, about
| | |15 yards wide.
| | |
Tambura’s | 3 | 182 |
enclosure | | |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

56.—WAU TO DEIM ZUBEIR.

MAJOR W. A. BOULNOIS, APRIL, 1901; AND LIEUTENANT-COLONEL SPARKES,
APRIL, 1903.

[Sidenote: The country.]

All forest and jungle. Cultivated patches round Biselli. Country gets gradually more undulating, and hills and ridges are higher towards Deim Zubeir. Granite boulders and ironstone intermingled.

[Sidenote: Rivers.]

The Bongo and the Kuru. Both much the same, nearly dry in dry weather, probably full, and difficult to cross between May and October. Many khors, which would be a great obstruction to donkey or even mule traffic.

A waterless stretch for 30 miles from Khor Gitti to the Bongo in dry weather. There is a well out of use at Khor Gombolo, 11½ miles west of Khor Gitti, otherwise water is found at no greater distance than 15 miles interval in pools in the khors.

[Sidenote: The track.]

Is very indistinct in places.[27] Elephant tracks lead off which help to confuse it. Bushes and trees constantly intercept.

[Sidenote: Natives.]

Biselli is fairly populated with Golo and a few Kreich and Bari, originally from Deim Idris.

Deim Zubeir almost entirely Kreich.

Natives live on barley, roots, and berries of trees, and on honey a great deal at this time of year (April).

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Fort Dessaix- | — | — |Track leaves the river nearly due
Wau Post | | |W.; several khors are crossed:
| | |Khor Ganna at 2 miles, Khor Ngoa
| | |at 9 miles, Khor Alfell at 10
| | |miles.
| | |
_Absaka’s_ new| 12 | 12 |Water from Well. Rakuba and hut
village | | |for traveller.
| | |
| | |A track crosses the route at 12
| | |miles from the Jur Village Nuara
| | |to iron furnaces 15 miles S.W. and
| | |S. At Absaka’s old village, at 17½
| | |miles there is well water.
| | |
Ganna | 4½ | 16½ |A village taking its name from
| | |another Khor Ganna is passed. Golo
_Biselli (old | 9 | 25½ |villages to and at Biselli. Rest
zeriba)_ | | |Rakuba for travellers. The old
| | |zeriba is in ruins—few trees are
| | |left; ½ mile further west the huts
| | |and zeribas of Golo—Sheikh Limbo.
| | |Water from Khor Gitti ½ mile N.,
| | |flowing N.E., always good.
| | |
| | |The track nearly all the way so
| | |far is thoroughly thickly wooded
| | |country, much intercepted by
| | |shrubs, bushes, and branches.
| | |
| | |Hence track goes slightly S. or W.
| | |for 4 miles along right bank of
| | |Khor Gitti, passing French wooden
| | |bridge over the khor to Village
| | |Gumsi Golo, thence W. across Khor
| | |Gitti.
| | |
_Khor Gombolo_| 10 | 35½ |Well giving bad water in dry
| | |season (March to end of May).
| | |Rakuba and huts. Dry route
| | |crossing Khor Gombolo and Gamus
| | |(native name, Ingataba), much
| | |intercepted by bushes and trees to
River Bongo | 20 | 55½ |River Bongo—steep banks; trees
| | |close up to river banks; marsh ½
| | |mile broad, left bank; flowing
| | |N.E. from S. about 30 yards broad
| | |from bank to bank. Banks at low
| | |water (14.3.01) about 20 feet
| | |high, sandy bottom, always good
| | |clear water in pools. Rakuba and
| | |huts. A species of Tetse fly
| | |infests the banks of this river.
| | |
| | |Thence through forest
| | |country—higher ground—crossing
| | |several khors, past Aboko hills at
| | |11 miles, 1 mile N. of track,
| | |whence a view is obtained. Granite
| | |ridges about 600 feet high, trees
| | |growing up to the summit. Khors
| | |Karra and Ganna flowing towards
| | |the Bongo water.
| | |
_Khor Ganna_ | 13½ | 69 |Water always in Khor Ganna (in
| | |well in dry season). Rakuba and
| | |huts.
| | |
| | |Several more khors are crossed.
| | |Country getting slightly more
| | |undulating. Several granite
| | |outcrops and boulders are passed.
| | |
_Khor Gongoba_| 6½ | 75½ |Khor Gongoba, dry in dry season.
| | |Three and a half miles further on,
| | |Khor Idris, always water (both
| | |have rakubas and huts).
| | |
_Khor Raml_ | 12 | 87½ |Khors Raml and Tena hold water in
| | |pools in dry season, and flow S.
_Khor Tena_ | 3½ | 91 |to Bongo. The former has rakuba
| | |and huts.
| | |
_Deim Idris_ | 5 | 96 |Well situated on high ground
| | |(gives bad water). Now in ruins.
| | |Rakuba and huts. Small trees,
| | |jungle, and wilderness. Palisades
| | |of burnt wood poles show the
| | |outlines of Gessi’s fort. The
| | |earthworks of a battery and ruins
| | |of two houses are visible. Two or
| | |three wells are traced, now tilled
| | |up. Three-quarters of a mile
| | |further W. the ruins of Suleiman’s
| | |fort is passed, touching the
| | |track, and shortly after Khor
| | |Gelaba is crossed, where once
| | |stood houses and a Suk, now
| | |wilderness.
| | |
| | |Country more undulating, and after
| | |passing over a long ridge, the
| | |khors are more numerous, and flow
| | |northwards to Kuru river. Some
| | |years nearly all hold _pools of
| | |water in the dry season, but they
| | |are often dry_.
| | |
_River Kuru_ | 23 | 119 |Steep banks 20 feet high, 30 to 50
| | |yards from bank to bank, very
| | |slight current in stream, 6 feet
| | |deep. Good water. Rakuba and huts.
| | |
| | |Very pretty banks with overhanging
| | |trees on both sides.
| | |
_Khor Mubenga_| 7½ | 126½ |Always water. Rakuba and huts.
| | |
_Khor Ghanam_ | 17½ | 144 |Khor Ghanam. Crossed at the horse-
(flowing S. to| | |shoe bend mentioned by Dr. Junker.
Kuru) | | |Banks steep, 15 feet high, 15
| | |yards from bank to bank, always
| | |water in pools. Rakuba and huts.
| | |
| | |Remains of Gessi’s entrenchments,
| | |ironstone, 100 yards W. of left
| | |bank.
| | |
| | |Track follows right bank of Khor
| | |Uiri running into Khor Ghanam for
| | |1 mile, then rising over a ridge
| | |of 4 miles drops down the W.
| | |slope, facing a valley with the E.
| | |slope of Deim Zubeir ridge
| | |opposite. Open ground—dura fields
| | |and the fort in the front—Khor
| | |Ujugu (spring water) is crossed ¼
| | |mile E. of the Fort of Deim
Deim Zubeir | 6 | 150 |Zubeir.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

N.B. No inhabitants between Biselli and Deim Zubeir.

57.—CHAK CHAK TO DEIM ZUBEIR.

BY LIEUTENANT FELL, R.N., APRIL, 1904.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Chak Chak | — | — |Track lies nearly due S. Very good
| | |going along broad road to village
_Khor | 6 | 6 |of Baraguei, on khor of same name;
Baraguei_ | | |thence through straggling village
| | |to house of Sheikh Limliffo
_Sheikh | 3 | 9 |(Kreich), 1 mile from river.
Limliffo_ | | |Thence through forest to small
(Rest house) | | |Shat village, Sheikh Ramadan on
| | |Khor Mwelli. Road difficult to
| | |follow owing to numerous elephant
| | |roads.
| | |
_Khor Mwelli, | 20 | 29 |Good water in khor, but not very
Sheikh | | |much of it (April, 1904).
Ramadan_ (Rest| | |
house) | | |
| | |
| | |From here, track is better defined
| | |and lies through forest to rocky
| | |khor. Rain pools in rocks. Small
| 5 | 34 |hill to E.
| | |
_Khor Kobshum_| 6½ | 40½ |Good going to Khor Kobshum. Water
(Rest house) | | |in large pool and again in several
| | |pools half hour further on, 1 mile
| | |W. of rocky hill with another hill
| | |further to the E.
| | |
_Khor Kobshum_| 1½ | 42 |From Kobshum, through forest, to
(Rest house) | | |Khor Klippi. Road crosses this
| | |khor —no water, but strikes it
Khor Klippi | 3½ | 45½ |again after 1 mile. Water in pool.
| | |Thence through undulating forest
| | |country, crossing many khors to
Khor Agok | 8 | 53½ |Khor Agok, plenty of water, track
(Rest house) | | |difficult to follow owing to many
| | |elephant and game roads. From Khor
| | |Agok, road crosses many khors, but
| | |none at present (April 13) holding
| | |water.
| | |
_River Chel_ | 8 | 61½ |River 100 yards wide. W. bank
(Rest house) | | |steep and high. Plenty of water in
| | |pools above and below the road;
| | |leaving Chel river track passes
_Pools in | 2½ | 64 |through slightly more open country
forest_ | | |to 2 pools with plenty of water, 1
| | |mile apart.
| | |
| | |Thence through thick forest over
| | |high ground, passing small rocky
_River Biri_ | 11 | 75 |Jebel to E. of track to River
(Rest house) | | |Biri. Plenty of water.
| | |
| | |Thence track is never far from
| | |bank of river. Bad going for
| | |animals.
| | |
River Biri | 7 | 87 |Road joins Kossinga road at Biri
| | |River, 5 miles from Deim Zubeir.
| | |
Deim Zubeir | 5 | 92 |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

58.—DEIM ZUBEIR TO KOSSINGA.

BY MAJOR W. A. BOULNOIS, 8TH MAY, 1901.

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Deim Zubeir | — | — |A track is followed N.N.W. down a
| | |spur of the ridge to River Biri,
_Biri River_ | 5½ | 5½ |which is crossed at some rocks in
| | |a shallow at a sharp bend, between
| | |two deep pools. Stream about 1
| | |mile an hour (23.3.01); granite
| | |boulders in the bed—trees
| | |overhanging the banks. Banks 15
| | |feet high, and steep, except at
| | |crossing; 40 yards bank to bank;
| | |very pretty scenery. Thence
| | |through forests, free from shrubs.
| | |Five and a-half miles on from the
| | |rocky spur Tuambu, a view of Hill
| | |Tokingaran about 6 miles W.N.W. is
| | |obtained; the track to Boko, where
| | |Zemio has an outpost, runs close
| | |under this hill.
| | |
| | |Half a mile further the huts of
| | |Sheikh Mattar (Kreich) are passed,
| | |and many deleib palms stud the
| | |country side. The district and a
| | |hill N.E. about 10 miles are
| | |called Deleib.
| | |
_Khor Jangwi_ | 8½ | 14 |Khor Jangwi is crossed running E.
| | |to Biri river, a small deep khor
| | |about 20 feet broad with pools; a
| | |grove of deleibs marks a good pool
| | |and camping site.
| | |
Khor Rogoko | 4½ | 18½ |Thick forest to pool Rogoko, where
| | |there is a deserted village,
_Khor | 5½ | 24 |thence no track through forest
Odagombo_ | | |past Odagombo, where there is
| | |always water, running east to
| | |Biri; ruins of village on N. side,
| | |and cross Khors Aparipi and Achon
_Sopo River_ | 19 | 43 |to River Sopo. Thick bushes on the
| | |edge of the bank impede the
| | |crossing; 70 to 80 yards broad;
| | |granite bed in places. It is
| | |crossed at a regular floor of
| | |granite rocks, stretching 200
| | |yards down the river and damming
| | |the stream at low water, thus
| | |making a fine pool above; deep
| | |drains and khors running down to
| | |the river from gradually sloping
| | |ridges, on either bank.
| | |
| | |Hence E. of N. across a bend of
| | |Sopo river, which is crossed at 12
| | |miles and followed and recrossed
| | |again at the cataract or falls of
_Kaloka_ | 20 | 63 |Kaloka, fine granite boulders and
| | |a deep pool. Shortly after the
| | |river is crossed again, and the
| | |regular track from Deim Zubeir is
| | |joined at Khor Regaba, a village
_Khor Regaba_ | 11½ | 74½ |of Mandallas on the left bank of
| | |Sopo river is passed.
| | |
Hill Lutu | — | — |Thence Sopo is left gradually a
| | |few miles E., and the Hill Lutu (a
| | |steep granite hill about 500 feet
| | |high, shaped like half an egg) is
| | |passed at 7 miles. Thence an open
| | |valley across _Khor Lutu_ where
| | |there is _always water in pools_.
| | |Quarter mile further on the
_Kossinga_ | 9½ | 84 |village of Sultan Nasser of
| | |Telgona is reached, nestling under
| | |the rocks of Kossinga, three
| | |granite peaks from 200 to 400 feet
| | |high, with trees growing up to the
| | |summit.
| | |
| | |Kossinga is a large village with
| | |about 300 inhabitants, Mandallas
| | |being the Negro portion, but the
| | |majority being a breed half Arab
| | |(Baggaras and Jaalin) and half
| | |Mandalla.
| | |
| | |Sultan Nasser lives here. The men
| | |are armed with a certain amount of
| | |Remington rifles, and a lot of
| | |useless guns of sorts. I saw four
| | |or five Lebel rifles—altogether
| | |about 200 rifles, and no doubt the
| | |outlying districts and villages
| | |would bring it up to 2,000 rifles.
| | |(?)
| | |
| | |There is a market; dura semsem,
| | |salt, bamia, beans (ful Sudani or
| | |monkeynuts) can be bought, and
| | |occasionally an Arab merchant
| | |makes his appearance and sells
| | |cloth, &c., generally coming from
| | |Omdurman.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

NOTE.—The regular track was not followed as the guide elected to try a short route and lost his way in the forest.

59.—KOSSINGA TO WAU (FORT DESSAIX).

BY MAJOR W. A. BOULNOIS, MAY, 1901.