Chapter VIII: (kordofan) (5)

--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Dilling | — | — |The road from Dilling to Sungikai
(Nuba)_ | | |soon after passing Jebel Dilling
| | |separates from the Dilling-Nila
| | |road and keeps W. of it. The
| | |general direction is N.E., the
| | |road is good going and fairly free
Gad El Kerim | 16 | 16 |from thorns. There are a few
(Hawazma) | | |patches of black cotton soil;
| | |after 10 miles the road crosses
| | |the Khor Abu Habl,[33] and
| | |continues N.E. till Hellet Gad el
| | |Kerim is reached.
| | |
| | |The inhabitants of this village
| | |drink from the wells at Nila,
| | |except during the rains, when they
| | |drink from pools in Khor Abu Habl.
_Sungikai | 6 | 22 |The road keeps up on the rising
(Zeriba El | | |ground, passing numerous villages
Aguz)_ | | |till the largest village in the
| | |immediate neighbourhood of
| | |Sungikai, Zeriba el Aguz, is
| | |reached.
| | |
_Sungikai_ (H.| 2 | 24 |Leaving this village the road from
Gaghgagh) | | |Sungikai after being joined by
| | |roads from the numerous
| | |surrounding villages continues in
| | |a N.E. direction till El Hagiz is
| | |reached, ½ mile after passing
| | |which the road divides N.N.E. to
| | |Um Durban. The road, after passing
| | |to the W. of Zeriba el Aguz, goes
| | |H. Gaghgagh and thence to El
| | |Hagiz, where it divides W. to Um
| | |Durban and E. to El Hamadi.
| | |
_Um Durban_ | 24 | 48 |The road is at first very winding
(Kenana) | | |with a good deal of shok, after
| | |about 6 miles it opens out, and
| | |continues fair till Um Durban is
| | |reached; where on 5.6.03, there
| | |was a little water from wells in
| | |khor; in March 1904, the water had
| | |dried up.
| | |
| | |Leaving Um Durban the road goes
| | |N.E., after about 6 miles Hellet
| | |Kafawa is passed some 4 miles to
| | |the W. of the road.
| | |
| | |The road continues in the same
| | |direction N.E., the going being
| | |uniformly good and free from shok,
| | |except in a few depressions and
| | |khors till after some 24 miles,
| | |when the soil becomes heavy red
_Um Ramad_ | 30 | 78 |sand, which continues till Um
(Bederia) | | |Ramad is reached. At this village
| | |there are numerous shallow wells
| | |and water holes, but they were
| | |quite dry on 6.6.03, but plenty of
| | |water 1.5.04. The people drink
| | |from Abu Haraz and Obeid. The road
| | |from Um Durban joins the Abu Haraz
| | |road ½ mile from Um Ramad.
| | |
| | |After passing Um Ramad the road
| | |broadens out into a track about 15
| | |feet wide, and continues in a N.E.
| | |direction till El Obeid is
| | |reached.
| | |
_El Gika_ | 5 | 83 |Five miles after leaving Um Ramad,
| | |the first El Gika village is
| | |passed ½ mile to the left of the
| | |road. Plenty of water 1.5.04.
| | |
| | |There are five villages at El
| | |Gika, each about a mile from the
| | |other; the road to El Obeid from
El Obeid | 11 | 94 |El Gika runs parallel to the Abu
| | |Haraz-El Obeid road until it joins
| | |it about 3 miles from El Obeid. On
| | |this road from Sungikai there is
| | |very little shade, except at the
| | |villages.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

105.—ROUTES IN DAR NUBA—SOUTHERN KORDOFAN.

BY CAPTAIN C. H. LEVESON, 18TH (P.W.) HUSSARS, DECEMBER, 1903-MARCH,
1904.

(i.) Jebel Tendik to Lukka.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Tendik | — | — |Large Nuba village of 1,200
| | |people. Most of the village is
| | |built in a hollow about 600 feet
| | |up the jebel and on a ridge above
| | |it. Good water up on the mountain,
| | |also good below, where there is a
| | |garrison of half company 12th
| | |Sudanese. Quiet, peaceable people;
| | |much cultivation; sheep and goats,
| | |but not many cattle. A big khor
| | |runs along E. and S. of jebel,
| | |through dense deleib palms. The
| | |road runs nearly due S., and
| | |crosses the big khor at 2
| | |miles—re-crossing it again almost
| | |at once.
| | |
| — | 5 |A jebel about 30 feet high on W.
| | |Cross a ridge and a khor a mile
| 1 | 6 |further on. All good going over
| | |gravel.
| | |
| 1 | 7 |
| | |
| 1 | 8 |Cross another khor, when road runs
| | |between parallel ridges of stony
| 2¼ | 10¼ |hills for 2¼ miles, when the Khor
| | |Sesaban is reached.
| | |
J. Odam | 1¼ | 11½ |A small hill, 400 feet on right.
| | |Cross Khor Ardeib, 8 feet deep.
| | |
Khor Ardeib | 1½ | 13 |
| | |
| | |For 5½ miles there is a range of
| | |low hills on right of road and for
| | |the next 5½ a low range on left of
| | |road.
| | |
| 11 | 24 |Cross a khor.
| | |
_Khor Nueila_ | 1 | 25 |A mile further on, and the Khor
| | |Nueila is reached. The main
| | |channel about 15 feet deep and 30
| | |yards wide. Beyond is a swampy
| | |track 600 yards across, with pools
| | |of water (December, 1903), biggest
| | |100 yards long and 3 feet deep.
| | |Good clear water. Much game;
| | |tracks of lion and leopard.
| | |Hartebeeste and wart-hog seen.
| | |Elephants live about here in
| | |rains. After crossing swamp, track
| | |leads up on to higher ground,
| | |crossing a small khor, and at 1½
| 1½ | 26½ |miles and further another khor.
| | |
| 1½ | 28 |
| | |
| ½ | 28½ |A small hill on right.
| | |
| ½ | 29 |Cross khor.
| | |
| ½ | 29½ |A hill on right, cross the Khor Id
| | |El Simoa, 6 feet deep, 30 yards
| | |wide.
| | |
| 1¼ | 30¾ |Small hill on right.
| | |
| 1 | 31¾ |Cross Khor Jogham, 6 feet deep, 20
| | |yards wide.
| | |
| 1 | 32¾ |Small hill, J. Gelabi, on right.
| | |
Khor Hash | 3¼ | 36 |A little water still standing in
Hashi | | |marshy ground behind main channel,
| | |which is 12 yards broad and 10
| | |feet deep. Cross khor, and for 2½
| | |miles there are low hills on left
| | |of road.
| | |
J. Thaba | 4 | 40 |J. Thaba on right of road, cone-
| | |shaped hill, with bald, smooth
| | |top, about 70 feet. A good
| | |landmark.
| | |
_Khor Um | 3 | 43 |Khor Um Idara, plenty of water
Idara_ | | |here now. Tracks of lion. As
| | |usual, swarms of guinea fowl. Main
| | |channel 20 yards wide, 8 feet
| | |deep.
| | |
| 3½ | 46½ |Khor Um Aleik, shallow, broad,
| | |sandy khor.
| | |
J. Obni | 1¼ | 47¾ |J. Obni, half a mile away on right
| | |of road.
| | |
| ¾ | 48½ |Khor Dabdub—small.
| | |
J. Doga | ½ | 49 |J. Doga, 1 mile away on right of
| | |road—jagged top.
| | |
J. Lukka | 3¾ | 52¾ |Road curves round to right in a
| | |wide sweep and enters valley at
| | |foot of mountain. (Described in
| | |Kologi-Lukka road.)

(ii.) J. Lukka to J. Errio.

J. Lukka | — | — |Road leads N. out of valley for ½
| | |mile, then curves to left along
| | |high ground on northern spurs of
| | |J. Lukka. Good going over gravelly
| | |ridges; by making short detours to
| | |right, at khors, all dismounting
| | |may be avoided. Much cultivation
| | |on right.
| | |
Khor Tuffa | — | 6 |The Khor Tuffa 20 yards broad, 12
| | |feet deep; must dismount
| | |here—quite dry. Road becomes stony
| | |after khor.
| | |
_Errio_ | 2 | 8 |Village of Errio is reached after
| | |bending round sharp to left and
| | |crossing a “nek,” or “col.” Many
| | |cattle. Population, Kawahla Arabs
| | |crossed with Nubas. Population
| | |about 700, under Sheiks Badei Bakr
| | |and Abballa Adam. No rifles seen.
| | |Quiet people; do not raid. Plenty
| | |of dura.
| | |
| | |Water plentiful but dirty. Best
| | |camp ½ mile beyond village to
| | |S.W., on Tira El Akhdar road.

(iii.) Route J. Errio to J. Talodi, _viâ_ Tosi and J. Meselli.

J. Errio | — | — |Road runs S.W. through thorn bush
| | |over cotton soil. Open country
| | |both sides; also cultivation.
| | |
| 0 | 5½ |Pass small hill on right.
| | |
| 3 | 8½ |Hillock ¼ mile away on left.
| | |
| ½ | 9 |Cross khor, 12 feet deep, 12 yards
| | |broad.
| | |
_Tosi_ | ½ | 9½ |Tosi village of about 500 Kawahla
| | |Arabs crossed with Nubas, under
| | |Sheikh El Fadl Didigair, lying at
| | |south end of small stony hill 400
| | |or 500 feet high. Water supply
| | |poor. Supplies poor.
| | |
| 4½ | 14 |Road now passes between hills and
| | |drops down about 100 feet over an
| | |“agaba,” and leads through cotton
| | |soil for 1 mile to
| | |
Khor Kagala | 2¾ | 16¾ |A broad shallow khor in thick
| | |bush. A hill about 300 feet high
| | |on right of crossing. Good going.
| | |
K. El Kirki | 2¼ | 19 |Khor El Kirki—small.
| | |
J. Meselli | 2 | 21 |J. Meselli—on right.
| | |
K. Um Sinin | 2 | 23 |Khor Um Sinin; forest land.
| | |
K. Joghan | 5 | 28 |Khor Joghan; forest land.
| | |
| ½ | 28½ |Crosses ridge and drops down about
| | |100 feet to
| | |
_Amuti_ | 1½ | 30 |300 yards on left of road several
| | |big pools of clear good water.
| | |Best watering place; better than
| | |Tosi and Talodi after February.
| | |Good going to
| | |
_Um Dual_ | 5½ | 35½ |A small hillock and (in January,
| | |1904) a pool of clear water 120
| | |yards long, 40 yards wide, 4 feet
| | |deep. No shade.
| | |
| | |Cultivation by people of Talodi.
| | |About 1½ or 2 miles south is an
| | |odd needle-shaped rock some 200
| | |feet high, visible for 20 miles
| | |round.
| | |
| | |Road now leads through thick
| | |forest for 4 miles. Roan antelope
| | |seen.
| | |
| 4 | 39½ |Cotton soil and light bush.
| | |
K. Abu Um | 1 | 40½ |The Khor Abd Um Jamad no obstacle
Jamad | | |in dry weather. Cultivation begins
| | |again.
| | |
_Talodi_ | 3 | 43½ |The village of Tebeldia, at E.N.E.
(Tebeldia) | | |corner of Talodi, is passed. It
| | |lies a mile away in valley to
| | |right.
| | |
_Talodi_ | 1 | 44½ |Village of Felaita and barracks of
(Felaita) | | |half company 12th Sudanese.
| | |
| | |J. Talodi is a rugged precipitous
| | |mountain, about 1,300 feet high
| | |and 28 miles in circumference. On
| | |its eastern face is a valley
| | |running a short way into mountain
| | |(village of Felaita in opening),
| | |which is said to communicate by a
| | |rough path, known as “Darb El
| | |Haramia,” with a corresponding
| | |valley on the western face.
| | |
| | |There are three villages, all
| | |nominally under the head sheikh,
| | |an old man called Sherif Wad Abu
| | |Omo:—
| | |
| | |Tebeldia, population 800, Sheikh
| | |Mamun.
| | |
| | |Felaita, „ 2,200, „ Abdalla
| | |Shamsham.
| | |
| | |Ageira, „ 800, „ Shanna Wad El
| | |Aris.
| | |
| | |The last named village lies some 7
| | |miles away to the S.W. of the
| | |mountain. The inhabitants are
| | |descendants of freed and escaped
| | |slaves of the Homr. There is a
| | |small colony of true Nubas at the
| | |south end of the mountain.
| | |
| | |They used to be notorious for
| | |their success in raiding. They
| | |possess about 300 or 400 rifles.
| | |Cultivation insufficient for their
| | |own needs. Water supply poor. They
| | |begin to trade for grain in
| | |February with the Nubas of J.
| | |Moro, at Kororak.
| | |
| | |Half company 12th Sudanese and
| | |Mamuria at Felaita.

(iv.) J. Errio to J. Talodi, _viâ_ Tira El Akhdar, Tira Mandi and
Kindirma (February, 1904).

J. Errio | | — |Road leads out S.W. for ½ mile,
| | |then west and through cultivation.
| | |Good going.
| | |
| 2½ | 2½ |A khor—rough broken ground.
| | |
| 1¾ | 4¼ |A broad shallow kohr.
| | |
| 2¾ | 7 |Khor 11 feet deep. Had to
| | |dismount.
| | |
| ¼ | 7¼ |Khor 10 feet deep. Dom palms.
| | |
| 3¾ | 11 |Slight descent to deep broad kohr,
| | |travel along it for 400 yards, and
| | |then climb out.
| | |
| ½ | 11½ |Beginning to ascend a ridge among
| | |rough rocky hills.
| | |
| 1¼ | 12¾ |Track leads over a smooth gravelly
| | |plateau for 1 mile.
| | |
| 1 | 13¾ |Road descends to cultivation;
| | |rough stony going.
| | |
| 1 | 14¾ |Track leads sharp to right down
| | |rocky side of hill into a grassy
| | |valley about 3 miles long.
| | |
| ½ | 15¼ |Cross broad sandy khor, with
| | |rivulet a yard wide in centre
| | |(February, 1904). Water disappears
| | |a mile further down. Dom palms.
| | |
_Tira El | ½ | 15¾ |Good camping place under shady
Akhdar_ | | |trees by stream. The Nuba village
| | |is situated on the hills to the
| | |west of the valley, which is only
| | |½ mile wide.
| | |
| | |They possess few rifles, but many
| | |spears and clubs. Population about
| | |1,200, under Meks
| | |
| | |(1) Shega.
| | |
| | |(2) Amiri.
| | |
| | |(3) Atuira.
| | |
| | |(4) El Gamal.
| | |
| | |(5) Ti.
| | |
| | |They are greatly feared and hated
| | |by surrounding Jebels, owing to
| | |their raids. They are true Nuban,
| | |and wear no clothing. They own a
| | |lot of cattle and goats.
| | |
| | |The track, rough and stony, leads
| | |S. along the edge of Western hills
| | |of the valley, and turns to the
| 4 | 19¾ |right (W.) over a slight rise, a
| | |“nek” or ridge, and runs through
| | |forest land. Going better. Gravel.
| | |
| 2½ | 22¼ |Track turns slightly N., and
| | |passes by a khor, banks 20 feet,
| | |breadth of all channels 100 yards,
| | |and then runs through thick
| | |forest. Good going.
| | |
| 7 | 29¼ |Crosses a broad sandy khor 50 to
| | |90 yards wide, and runs along W.
_Tiramandi_ | ½ | 29¾ |bank half mile to Tiramandi camp.
| | |Village is two miles away to the
| | |S.W., on a spur of the hill.
| | |
| | |Mek Nuwai; population, 700 Nubas.
| | |Very poor, and had been lately
| | |raided, very few cattle, but are
| | |clearing forest along W. bank of
| | |khor for cultivation. No rifles
| | |seen.
| | |
| 2 | 31¾ |Track leads S.W. from camp, one
| | |mile to village, and then passes
| | |over low spur below village round
| | |S. of hill, direction S.W. Rough
| | |and stony, much cut up by small
| | |khors.
| | |
| 2 | 33¾ |Gold is found here in the rainy
| | |season, the rain displacing rocks
| | |and stones on the ridge to the N.
| | |side of the road. The people
| | |search for it among the debris.
| | |They state that by hard work a man
| | |can get sufficient to pay his
| | |tribute (apparently not worth
| | |working).
| | |
| 1¼ | 35 |Road crosses a broad khor, and the
| | |hills on right of road trend away
| | |to the N.W.
| | |
| | |Many small khors are crossed. Road
| | |bends round Southern end of a
| | |ridge at right angle to road.
| | |
| 4 | 39 |Road crosses a broad sandy khor.
| | |Spur from J. Kindirma runs down on
| | |right to the khor. After crossing,
| | |road bends round to left (S.),
| | |along Eastern face of Kindirma.
| | |
_Kindirma_ | 1¾ | 40¾ |A valley in the Eastern face of a
| | |mountain down which a stream forms
| | |a succession of waterfalls and
| | |deep pools. 20 to 30 feet across,
| | |and six feet deep. A rough path
| | |leads up along the waterfall to
| | |the top of the ridge, some 400 or
| | |500 feet, and on either side the
| | |mountain rises nearly sheer to a
| | |height of 110 feet. The Nubas live
| | |on top of the right or Northern
| | |side, and their village is
| | |approached by a precipitous path
| | |winding up the face of the cliff,
| | |and at times disappearing in
| | |clefts in the rocks, reappearing
| | |again 10 feet higher up.
| | |
| | |On reaching the top of the ridge
| | |one finds oneself in a valley
| | |formed by the mountains which
| | |curve back outwards from either
| | |side of the waterfall and unite
| | |again three miles from the ridge,
| | |forming a bowl-shaped hollow, the
| | |stream flows along the bottom of
| | |this basin and falls over the
| | |ridge to the level of the main
| | |road outside Kindirma.
| | |
| | |The Mek’s name is Gandal. The
| | |population is about 800 or 1,000.
| | |They have about 20 or 30 rifles.
| | |Lots of cultivation, both in the
| | |valley, inside the mountain, and
| | |down by the road below, but few
| | |cattle. Have suffered a good deal
| | |from raids.
| | |
| | |Road leads due S. through thick
| | |bush towards small jebel, in
| | |direction of E. corner of Talodi.
| | |Good going.
| | |
| 1 | 41¾ |Light forest.
| | |
| 2 | 43¾ |Cross broad sandy khor.
| | |
J. Mavlul | 2 | 45¾ |A small jebel, known as J. Mavlul,
| | |about a mile long, is passed.
| 6¼ | 52 |Close to road on left a small
| | |village on the N.E. spur of
| | |Talodi. Good view of J. Eliri and
| | |all surrounding country.
| | |
_Talodi_ | 1¼ | 53¼ |Corner of main jebel and village
| | |of Tebeldia on right in valley.
| | |
| 2¼ | 55½ |Felaita village entrance to
| | |valley. Mamuria and military post.
| | |Wells and water three feet from
| | |surface (February, 1904).

(v.) J. Talodi to J. Eliri.

| | |The track leads straight out from
| | |the village of Felaita towards the
| | |centre of J. Eliri. First three
| | |miles good going through light
| | |bush.
| | |
| 3 | 3 |Bush gets thicker. Cotton soil,
| | |bad going.
| | |
A hillock | 4½ | 7½ |A small hill on the left is
| | |passed.
| | |
J. Abu Ghor | 3 | 10½ |Track leads S.E. round Jebel Abu
| | |Ghor, a small hill; better going.
| | |
| 4¼ | 14¾ |Thick bamboo clumps obstructing
| | |track for four miles.
| | |
| 7 | 21¾ |Bad going. Cotton soil.
| | |
| 1½ | 23¼ |Good going. Light bush.
| | |
_Tebeldia | 1¼ | 24½ |Two small wells in depression in
wells_ | | |the ground, water two feet from
| | |surface, only sufficient for a
| | |dozen camels. Takes an hour to
| | |fill again.
| | |
_El Egheibish_| 3½ | 28 |A string of five or six wells;
| | |sufficient water for 200 men and
| | |animals. Road hence much cut up by
| | |small khors. Lots of deleib palms.
| | |
_Taira | 4 | 32 |Small village at foot of mountain;
village_ (J. | | |population, about 800 revolted
Eliri) | | |slaves of the Rowauga tribe of the
| | |Hawazma Arabs; much water and
| | |cultivation; Sheikh Rizkalla, 20
| | |rifles. Few cattle. Plenty of
| | |sheep and goats.
| | |
| | |Road good from Taira through dura
| | |cultivation and light thorn bush.
| | |
_Tanguru_ | 4 | 36 |A large village, population about
| | |1,100 revolted slaves of the
| | |Rowauga tribe of the Hawazma
| | |Arabs. Sheikhs Mohammed Geiga and
| | |Ismail Wad Umbaga. About 50
| | |rifles.
| | |
| | |Much water and cultivation, a
| | |stream falls from the cultivated
| | |plateau 700 feet above in the
| | |mountains and there are many wells
| | |besides. There is a rough track
| | |leading up the glen alongside the
| | |waterfall to the Nuba village on
| | |top (Sultan Bilula); population,
| | |1,000 pure Nubas. No clothes at
| | |all, very few rifles, all spears
| | |and knobkerries, lots of dura,
| | |cattle and sheep. They hold little
| | |or no communication with the
| | |villages below; able to hold their
| | |own in case of raids.
| | |
| | |Supplies sufficient for 500 men
| | |for 3 days. Road hence to Kurondo,
| | |a jebel to the S. Good road round
| | |jebel to Dallass.
| | |
_Dallass_ | 4½ | 40½ |Small village; population, about
| | |600 revolted slaves of Abdul Ali
| | |tribe of the Hawazma Arabs. Sheikh
| | |Rizgalla Mursul. Twenty rifles,
| | |sufficient cultivation and water
| | |for own needs.
| | |
_Lakolo_ | 2 | 42½ |Good road round jebel, but stony;
| | |could be easily improved. Large
| | |village; population, about 1,200
| | |revolted slaves of the Khalifa
| | |tribe of Hawazma Arabs. Sheikhs
| | |Zaid Barsham and Abdalla Kaki.
| | |
| | |Lots of water and cultivation.
| | |Road hence up spur of mountain to
| | |Nuba village on top. A solitary
| | |hill ½ mile S.E. of village. Was
| | |told the river was 1½ days’
| | |journey due S., and that the
| | |people took 4 or 5 days more from
| | |there to Kodok by boats. Many
| | |cattle and goats. About 50 rifles.

(vi.) J. Eliri (Lakolo) to J. El Amira.

J. Eliri | — | ½ |Pass hill on right.
| | |
| 1 | 1½ |Cross khor.
| | |
| 2½ | 4 |Cotton soil and thick thorn
| | |trees—very bad going.
| | |
_Village_ | 2 | 6 |Good going; road curves round
| | |jebel by rocks, and reaches
| 2¼ | 8¼ |village among deleib palms and
| | |tebeldi trees. Little cultivation
| | |and poor water supply; population,
| | |about 200, no arms; very poor.
| | |Remains of Nuba village on top.
| | |Was told the Nubas left the jebel
| | |and went S. to river to live in
| | |Dinka country a year ago. River
| | |said to be 1½ days’ journey due S.
| | |A few sheep and goats.
| | |
| | |Road hence to J. Kuronde, about 5
| | |miles S.W.

(vii.) J. Eliri (Lakolo) to J. Werna.

Lakolo | — | — |
| | |
| — | ½ |Road runs E., cross khor which
| | |runs along right of road.
| | |
| ½ | 1 |Cross khor. Road runs between low
| | |parallel ridges of hills named
| | |Lohno. Rough and stony.
| | |
| 1 | 2 |Road bends sharp to left.
| | |
_Lohno_ | ½ | 2½ |Village of Lohno, small,
| | |population about 200. Very little
| | |cultivation, bad water supply.
| | |Road now bends to right, crossing
| | |rocky ridge.
| | |
| ½ | 3 |Cross khor, bad going.
| | |
| ¼ | 3¼ |Cross big deep khor, and turn
| | |sharp to right.
| | |
| ¼ | 3½ |Recross big khor, road turns sharp
| | |to left.
| | |
| ½ | 4 |Cross another khor.
| | |
| ½ | 4½ |Going becomes better, road runs
| | |through forest land.
| | |
| 3¼ | 7¾ |Cross khor.
| | |
| ¼ | 8 |Cross khor.
| | |
| 1 | 9 |Going becomes rough.
| | |
| 3½ | 12½ |Turns sharp to left to Nuba
| | |village of
| | |
_Tekeim_ | ½ | 13 |Tekeim, small village; population
| | |about 400; good water supply;
| | |little cultivation, very few
| | |cattle, but lots of goats.
| | |
| 1½ | 14½ |A cross road leads to the Tekeim
| | |dura fields.
| | |
| ½ | 15 |An “agaba.” Camels had to be led
| | |up; cross a khor other side of
| | |“agaba.”
| | |
| 1 | 16 |Cross another khor, going becomes
| | |better.
| | |
| 1¾ | 17¾ |Cross a khor, track leaves hills,
| | |good going.
| | |
El Girid | 1¼ | 19 |A cone-shaped peak amongst hills
| | |to right known as El Girid, about
| | |3 miles off. Bush very open.
| | |
| 4 | 23 |Bad going, cotton soil begins, a
| | |most dreary view.
| | |
| 4 | 27 |Going better.
| | |
| 1 | 28 |Small hill ½ mile to right.
| | |
| 2 | 30 |Low hills ½ mile on left.
| | |
| 4 | 34 |Cross khor.
| | |
_Werna_ | 1 | 35 |Enter Werna hills, a group of five
| | |or six rocky hills about 300 to
| | |400 feet high on smooth open
| | |ground.
| | |
| | |Population about 1,100, mainly
| | |revolted slaves of the Khalifa
| | |tribe of Hawazma Arabs under
| | |Sheikh Abdul Naim. The original
| | |population was Nuba, but are now
| | |very much in the back ground. The
| | |real “Mek” is Abu Gabr Azaz. They
| | |have about 40 rifles.
| | |
| | |Plenty of water and cultivation,
| | |few cattle, many goats. People
| | |trade to river at Kodok.

(viii.) J. Werna to Lukka, _viâ_ J. Morung, J. Gedir and J. Kologi.

Werna | — | — |
| | |
| | |Road takes a wide curve out N. (to
| | |right) to avoid a swamp which
| | |exists all the year round. Good
| | |going until cotton soil, then bad
| — | 2 |going. Very open country.
| | |
Swamp | 2¼ | 4¼ |Cross 100 yards of marshy ground
| | |(end of the swamp).
| | |
| ¾ | 5 |Cultivation for ½ mile, huge crops
| | |of dura.
| | |
| ½ | 5½ |Road turns to left over very bad
| | |cotton soil and through dense
| | |thorn trees.
| | |
| 3 | 8½ |A big khor, water standing in
| | |pools 100 yards long and 4 feet
| | |deep. Duck of two kinds and lots
| | |of game. Roan antelope and tetel.
| | |
| 1½ | 10 |Firm ground; good going.
| | |
| 1 | 11 |Cultivation as far as Morung.
| | |
_Morung_ | 2 | 13 |Village on conical hill;
| | |population: Kawahla tribe of
| | |Hawazma Arabs, much mixed with
| | |Nubas. Sheikh: Hassan Wad Tieb.
| | |
| | |Population about 1,000; 30 rifles.
| | |A fula supplies village with water
| | |until end of January; they then
| | |open wells. Good water supply.
| | |Plenty of cattle, sheep, goats and
| | |donkeys.
| | |
| | |After leaving Morung for first 13½
| | |miles going very good, through
| | |light bush and forest, perfectly
| | |flat; no hills.
| | |
| 13½ | 26½ |A khor, cotton soil and thorn bush
| | |begins.
| | |
| 1 | 27½ |Good going again.
| | |
| 1½ | 29 |Cotton soil, and a big khor with
| | |pools of water, dry by end of
| | |February.
| | |
| 1½ | 30½ |A khor, bad going.
| | |
| 1 | 31½ |Good going.
| | |
| 1 | 32½ |Road bends to right, towards S.E.
| | |corner of Gedir, and runs along
| | |base to corner.
| | |
| 4 | 36½ |Track runs round corner and bends
| | |sharp to left to village of Mek
_Gedir_ | ½ | 37 |Bosh, of Gedir. Population about
| | |1,200, about 60 rifles; fair water
| | |supply 10 feet from surface. Much
| | |dura cultivation. Population:
| | |Nubas. Plenty of cattle and sheep.
| | |
| | |Two other villages, Semat and
| | |Gheibish, described on road to
| | |Kologi.
| | |
| | |Road leaves Mek Bosh’s village and
| | |runs round another spur at E. end
| | |of jebel, passing the Mahdi’s rock
| | |where he used to preach to the
| | |people, and follows North-eastern
| | |face.
| | |
_Semat_ | 1 | 38 |Small village of Semat, about 200
| | |people.
| | |
| 1½ | 39½ |Track enters gorge, rough, stony
| | |going—between main jebel and a
| | |ridge of rocky hills running out
| | |N. to J. Girada, 4 miles off.
| | |
| | |Road clears N. end of the
| | |mountain, and at the end of a spur
_El Gheibish_ | 1 | 40½ |is El Gheibish, a small village of
| | |about 400 population, 40 rifles;
| | |fair water supply, lying among dom
| | |palms. Road hence straight to J.
| | |Lukka.
| | |
| 1¼ | 41¾ |Another road leads over very bad
| | |cotton soil to a khor, light thorn
| | |bush, bad going, cotton soil.
| | |
| 2½ | 44¼ |Firm ground and good going through
| | |light forest, passing one village
| 4¾ | 49 |at 11 miles, and reach main
| | |village of Kologi, lying among dom
| | |palms under the hill.
| | |
_Kologi | — | — |Population of the two villages,
villages_ | | |about 1,500. They are sedentary
| | |Arabs (much crossed by Nubas) of
| | |the Kawahla tribe of the Hawazma
| | |Arabs. Sheikhs Gadum Hassib El
| | |Nebi and Akhman Fadlalla.
| | |
| | |No arms to speak of; quiet people;
| | |do not raid. Fair water supply
| | |from wells; water eight feet from
| | |surface. Much dura cultivation.
| | |Many cattle, sheep and goats.
| | |
| | |Road leads out due N. towards J.
| | |Lukka.
| | |
K. Harrug | ¾ | 49¾ |The khor Harrug; no obstacle.
| | |
| ½ | 50¼ |Cross a ridge; rough stony going.
| | |Road leads straight towards Lukka
| | |between small rocky hills.
| | |
| 3¾ | 54 |Road turns to right to get round
| | |Eastern spurs of J. Lukka, through
| | |thick thorn bush, and across
| | |broken stony ground and small
| | |khors and ridges, and bending
| | |round to left enters a valley and
| | |the village of Lukka.
| | |
_Lukka_ | 2¼ | 56¼ |Kawahla Arabs, with a cross of
| | |Nuba; Sheikh Janga Rahma. A large
| | |village of 1,000 people; no rifles
| | |to speak of. Quiet people; do not
| | |raid. Much dura cultivation. Water
| | |supply bad at camping place and
| | |insufficient for 50 men and
| | |animals. Good clear water is
| | |obtained about 600 feet up the
| | |mountain, where the Nuba colony
| | |get their water. Good camping
| | |ground. Shade. Plenty of supplies,
| | |cattle, sheep, and goats.

(ix.) J. Talodi to J. Kadugli, _viâ_ Kororak, Um Dorein
(in J. Moro), Homra and Sema.

Talodi | — | — |Road leads S.W. along face of
(Felaita) | | |mountain, through the villages of
| | |Felaita, and turns W., following
| — | 2 |Southern and South-western face
| | |along the base of the hills.
| | |
| | |J. Burham is seen 8 or 10 miles
| | |off to the W., and J. Krongo a
| | |long way off to the W.S.W.
| | |
| 5 | 7 |Here the road leaves the mountain
| | |and strikes off across the plain
_Swamp_ | ½ | 7½ |in a W.N.W. direction over cotton
| | |soil to a swamp, water one foot
| | |from surface (February, 1904).
| | |
| 2 | 9½ |Firm, good going.
| | |
| 5 | 14½ |A small rocky wooded hillock on
| | |right of road.
| | |
Kororak | 6 | 20½ |The road, skirting N.E. corner of
| | |Durham, leads straight to Kororak,
| | |a Nuba village in J. Moro. The
| | |village is high up on the face of
| | |the cliff. Population, about
| | |1,500. The various Meks’ names
| | |are:—
| | |
| | |(1) Tambura.
| | |
| | |(2) Toto El Azrak.
| | |
| | |(3) Toto Agari.
| | |
| | |Plenty of dura, very few cattle or
| | |sheep; no rifles.
| | |
| | |People of Talodi come here to buy
| | |grain.
| | |
| | |Mountains of Digig and Masakin to
| | |south. Road follows base of hills
| | |at Kororak for 1 mile, and then
| | |strikes off West across rough
| | |gravelly soil and thorn bush.
| | |
| 2 | 22½ |Cotton soil and thick thorn bush.
| | |
| 1 | 23½ |Firm ground and light bush.
| | |
_Dorein_ | 3½ | 27 |Road strikes the hills again at Um
| | |Dorein. Very small Nuba village on
| | |spur on left of road; small hill
| | |on right. Meks’ names are:—
| | |
| | |(1) Toto El Ahmah;
| | |
| | |(2) Abu Falang.
| | |
| | |Road passes over ridge, still
| | |going West over a small cultivated
| | |plain, with hills ½ mile away to
| | |left and ¾ mile on right.
| | |
| ½ | 27½ |Small rocky ridge in front. Best
| | |road leads to the left and then
| | |turns sharp to right round the
| | |ridge and over broken rocky
| | |ground.
| | |
| 1 | 28½ |Track descends on to very bad
| | |broken cotton soil. Impassable
| | |swamp in rains for animals.
| | |
_Well_ | 1¼ | 29¾ |Track strikes mountain again. Well
| | |(water 2 feet from surface) on
| | |side of road after leaving the
| | |swamp.
| | |
| 2 | 31¾ |Road runs West along south face of
| | |hill and at 2 miles turns half
| | |right. Good going.
| | |
| 1 | 32¾ |Road leaves J. Moro and strikes
| | |off W.N.W. across plain through
| | |light bush; very good going to
| | |
_Homra_ | 4½ | 37¼ |Large Arab village, population
| | |1,200. Great number of cattle,
| | |sheep, and goats. Wells, water 8
| | |feet from surface.
| | |
K. Meshisha | 1½ | 38¾ |Cross big Khor Meshisha, 40 yards
| | |across, 5 feet deep.
| | |
| 1½ | 40¼ |More Arab encampments, inhabited
| | |in rainy season, but deserted now
| | |(March, 1904).
| | |
| 1 | 41¼ |Cross deep khor, 8 feet, 8 yards
| | |wide. Alternate cotton soil and
| | |fair going through thick thorn
| | |bush to
| | |
| 3½ | 44¾ |A khor known at Sema and Kadugli
| | |as the “Wadi.” A small hill on
| | |right; cotton soil.
| | |
| 5 | 49¾ |Alternate good and bad going
| | |through thorn bush.
| | |
| ½ | 50¼ |A shallow khor; light bush.
| | |
Sema | 1½ | 51¾ |Village of Sema, open stony
| | |country at foot of hills;
| | |population about 300. Mek Guru.
| | |
| | |Three or four wells. Water 15
| | |feet; bad supply; only sufficient
| | |for five or six men and animals at
| | |a time.
| | |
| | |From here road turns N.W. and
| | |follows base of hills over stony
| | |ground.
| | |
| 1 | 52¾ |Rough going; pass small rocky hill
| | |on right; a good deal of thorn
| | |bush.
| | |
| 2 | 54¾ |Track becomes clearer and leads
| | |over cotton soil past the wells in
| | |a khor to
| | |
_Kadugli_ | 1 | 55¾ |Kadugli (Arab encampment), a few
| | |tukls against the S.W. end of a
| | |ridge of small hills. Kadugli Nuba
| | |village is 1 mile due E. on the
| | |main range called Ghuhub.
| | |
| | |The Mek is Rahal Andal, an
| | |energetic and trustworthy man. Has
| | |great influence for 50 miles
| | |round.
| | |
| | |The Sudanese infantry barracks, ½
| | |company, are just beyond the
| | |encampment, and the garrison has
| | |opened several wells of excellent
| | |clear water 6 feet from surface.
| | |
| | |Supplies unlimited from Kadugli.
| | |Population of village about 1,200.
| | |They have about 50 rifles.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

[Footnote 28: Between J. Kon and Taiara there is now a more direct road, _viâ_ Yasin (W. Lloyd, 1903), but water is said to be very scarce (More, 1904).]

[Footnote 29: It is better to go to Bir El Wuz, N. of J. Um Durrag.—H. H. S. M.]

[Footnote 30: There is.—H. H. S. M.]

[Footnote 31: In October 1900 Captain W. Lloyd found several pools of water from 20 to 30 feet in diameter and 4 feet deep; probably rain-water.]

[Footnote 32: There is a more direct road from Dilling to J. Gulfan, 26 miles.]

[Footnote 33: There is an upper road which does not cross Khor Abu Habl at all. Distance by it much the same and it is more practicable in the rains. It passes W. of H. Gad El Kerim.]