Chapter XXI: Section 1: Country Between the Atbara and the Niles—from El

DAMER SOUTHWARDS TO ABU HARAZ-SOFI LINE.

[Sidenote: General description.]

The vast tract of country from the junction of the Atbara with the Nile southwards to about the line Abu Haraz-Sofi, bounded on the east and west by these rivers, and on the south-west by the Blue Nile, has been generally called by cartographers “the Island of Meroe”; this name in reality, however, has long ceased to be applied to it locally, and is quite unknown to the Arabs of the present day. By the latter it is divided into four districts. The northern one, forming the triangle El Damer, Adarama, Shendi, is called _El Daheira_ (the high stony ground). The western district, including Shendi, Halfaya, Geili, and Abu Deleig, is known as _El Karaba_; south and south-east of this the country north of the Blue Nile from Khartoum North to Abu Haraz is called _Sharg El Adeik_; whilst the whole of the eastern portion from Adarama southwards, bounded on the west by Um Hatab, El Hawad, Geili, and Galaat Arang, forms the well-known _El Butana_ grazing district.

[Sidenote: El Daheira.]

[Sidenote: El Karaba and Sharg El Adeik.]

The northern or El Daheira district is, as its name denotes, a sandstone plateau generally bare, level, and desert-like. On the west, there are considerable ranges of sandstone hills. The soil, which is more sandy than further south, is, as a rule, poor and unfertile, except in the wadis, a few of which are usually cultivated in favourable years, and are generally marked by stunted selem and kittr bush. Further south, in the El Karaba and Sharg El Adeik districts, there is much more land suitable for cultivation, though even here it is generally seen in the wadis only, notwithstanding that the rainfall is markedly heavier. Selem, kittr, samr, sayal, and tundub trees grow plentifully, though they are rarely thick enough to obstruct free passage through them, and homra and maheirib grass are everywhere to be met. In the two last-named districts wells are comparatively numerous, though often excessively deep, occasionally as much as 250 feet, and the water rather salt.

In El Karaba, saltworks are frequently seen. Hafirs or tanks for holding up rain water, many of which are said to have been made by the ancients, are here particularly numerous compared to other parts of the Sudan, and are quite a distinctive characteristic of this part of the country.

[Sidenote: El Butana.]

The region known as “El Butana” is wonderfully open and flat, indeed, so much so, that, as a rule, not a single tree or bush is visible for miles, except along an occasional wadi. These, as a rule, drain northwards, and, as elsewhere in this part of the country, are usually the localities selected for cultivation, though the soil, generally speaking, is here richer than in the other districts.

The great product of El Butana is, however, Hantut grass and Siha plant, both particularly good for camels, and thus during the rains it was, and is still to a lesser extent, customary for camel-owning Arabs from all parts of the Sudan to visit this district for grazing. Water at this time of year, being comparatively plentiful, the Arabs are not tied down to the very limited number of wells existing in the dry season, and are thus free to wander far and wide wherever it suits them. A month or two after the cessation of the rains the grass becomes dry, weather-beaten, and broken, and the greater part of this region is then bare and desolate.

Though the Shukria are probably the rightful owners of this district, yet the Debania (Gedaref), Abu Rof, Kenana, Kawahla (Blue Nile), and other tribes were always accustomed to graze here gratuitously, though without, it seems, the permission of the owners, who apparently were not strong enough to effectively resist this invasion. An arrangement has now been made by the Government assigning specified areas to the various tribes for grazing purposes.

[Sidenote: Wells.]

The principal localities, and, in fact, the only known wells where the Nomad Arabs congregate during the dry season, are given below. At all these places the Arabs live by families in small groups of dom-mat tents.

I. UM HATAB.—About 30 miles east of Kabushia, 10 wells, 36 feet deep, less in the rains. Arabs here are Fadnia, Kawahla, and Jaalin, under Sheikh Mohammed Suleiman. Belongs to Shendi District of Berber Province. Last wells on road from Gedaref to El Damer. It is just outside the north-west limits of El Butana.

II. UM SHEDIDA.—Some 30 miles east of Um Hatab. 30 wells, 36 feet deep. Arabs and Sheikh same as Um Hatab, belong to Berber province. Situate in north of El Butana.

III. BIR AMBASA.—Between Abu Deleig and Um Hatab, is said to be 300 feet deep, water plentiful. However, no Arabs live here, presumably on account of the great depth of well and consequent labour in drawing water. It is said to have been dug by the Ancients (infidels), and to have inscriptions on it, though this appears open to doubt.

Bir Geheid about 20 miles east of Ambasa and on the eastern side of El Hawad—a very large well, 30 feet in diameter and 330 feet deep. No water at present and well partially filled in. Said also to have been built by the Ancients.

IV. DEBBAGHAT.—16 wells, 60 feet deep, in Khor Jegjegi. Lies about 6 miles E.N.E. from Abu Deleig. Arabs, Jaalin, Ahamda, Batahin, under Hassan Nimr, a sub-Sheikh under Mohammed Suleiman. It belongs to Berber Province.

V. ISNABIR.—23 miles east of Abu Deleig, on road from Goz Regeb to that place. Arabs, Batahin, under Sheikh Mohammed Talha, belonging to Gezira Province. Wells contained little water in April, 1900.

VI. ABU DELEIG.—84 miles by road E.N.E. from Khartoum. 50 wells, 30 to 70 feet deep, extending for some miles in the Wadi Jegjegi. Headquarters of the Batahin and residence of Sheikh Mohammed Talha. Other tribes here are Mogharba, Hassania, Jaalin, etc.

Abu Deleig belongs to Gezira Province, and there is a Mamur, Police Officer, and Police Post here.

Up to February, 1898, Abu Deleig was always held by a Dervish force, latterly under the command of Abd El Rahim Wad Abu Dugal. This post was surprised by Irregulars from Kassala in February, 1898, who in turn, however, were themselves surprised on their way back to Kassala and suffered severely.

VII. GEILI.—About 25 miles due south of Abu Deleig. About 30 wells, 100 to 150 feet deep, situated around a flat topped granite hill about 250 feet high, on the summit of which is the tomb of Bint El Mek, a daughter of one of the Fung kings and wife of one of the early Shukria sheikhs. Arabs, Batahin and Mogharba, belonging to Gezira Province. There are ancient carvings here on the south side of the hill. (_Vide_ also “Route Report Khartoum North to Kassala” Vol. II, Chap. IV).

VIII. UM RUEISHID.—50 miles south-east of Abu Deleig on the road from Kassala to Khartoum, three wells, 100 feet deep in the dry season. They are the westernmost wells in the Kassala Province. Arabs Shukria, Mogharba, and Awaida, under Shiekh Ali Wad El Had.

IX. EL GELEITA.—12 miles north of Um Rueishid, on Goz Regeb-Abu Deleig road. Eight wells, 70 feet deep, water plentiful, Arabs mostly Shukria. Belongs to Kassala Province.

X. SHAG (EL WALIA).—12 miles east of El Geleita, first water after leaving Goz Regeb, on Abu Deleig road. Four wells, 70 to 100 feet deep. Inhabitants chiefly Shukria, few Mogharba, etc. Belongs to Kassala Province.

XI. EL SOFEIYA.—72 miles rather north of west from Asubri. 20 wells, 100 feet deep, water plentiful. Arabs same as at Um Rueishid. Residence of Ahmed Mohammed Abu Sin, wakil of Head Sheikh of Shukria in the Kassala Province.

XII. RERA.—About 10 miles south of El Sofeiya, 10 wells, 100 feet deep. In the eastern and highest ridge, of which there are several close by, there are two or three rock tanks containing water. Arabs, Shukria, Mogharba, Awaida, etc., under Ali Wad El Had, of Kassala Province. 48 miles south of Rera is the well of El Adeid a few miles south of J. Tawal. Water is scarce in the dry season, and only a few Shukria are found here.

XIII. EL SADDA.—22 miles south-east of Rera, 20 wells, 90 feet deep, ¼ mile west of south end of J. El Sadda, a low ridge running north and south; Arabs and sheikh same as at Rera. From here a road leads to Gedaref, which lies about 90 miles S.S.E. No water on the road except during rains at Hafir El Igl.

[Sidenote: Cultivation.]

The Arabs cultivate considerably in favourable years, when dura can be purchased at PT.25, or even less per ardeb. As before stated, the wadis known locally as “Atmurs” are the localities selected for cultivation; the chief of these being El Hawad (12 miles east of Abu Deleig), which extends probably some distance to the south, and northwards it trends towards the Nile at Kabushia. It receives the water of Khor Jegjegi. “Hemeisi” and “Feterita” dura are the crops most generally grown.

[Sidenote: Herds, etc.]

All these Arabs own large numbers of sheep and goats, but cattle and camels are now comparatively scarce, owing to the depredations of the Dervishes. The Shukria camels are remarkable for their size and carrying capacity, but are not, as a rule, suitable for fast work.

[Sidenote: Riverain population.]

Along the left bank of the Atbara, from El Damer to Goz Regeb, the Arabs are chiefly Nomad Bisharin and Jaalin. There are few permanent villages south of Adarama.

[Sidenote: Atbara.]

Amid the ruins of Goz Regeb live the few survivors of the former inhabitants under Sheikh Gaffa Ageil. South of Goz Regeb are Shukria, under Amara Abu Sin, who has a permanent village at Gandaua, a few miles north of Asubri.

In the neighbourhood of Fasher are the Lahawin, a tribe which formerly belonged to the White Nile.

[Sidenote: Nile.]

Along the Nile (right bank), from El Damer to Khartoum North, there is a considerable and much mixed riverain population, for the most part living in mud-built villages, and cultivating with both sagias and shadufs. The chief tribes are Jaalin, Ababda, Shaigia, Hassania, Mogharba, Aonia, etc.

[Sidenote: Villages on the Nile. (R.B.)]

EL DAMER.—Population about 700; Jaalin, etc. This town was formerly famous for its University and learning. It suffered much during the Mahdia, but its population and prosperity is now rapidly increasing, and there is quite a good market; principal trade, dom-mats, baskets, etc., and salt. A few caravans come here direct from Gedaref. There is a railway station here. It will be the capital of the Berber Province in 1905.

KABUSHIA.—26 miles down the river from Shendi. Population about 250, Shaigia and Jaalin; Awaida, Aliab, and Fadnia Nomads come here for grazing and cultivation. There is a comparatively large market.

The ruins of the ancient Meroe are situated about 4 miles to the north, and there are traces of an old temple at El Bagarawia. There are 25 pyramids (Tarabil) about 5 miles north-east. Some of these pyramids were examined in 1903, but little of interest was discovered. (_Vide_ Appendix D.)

SHENDI.—Population about 500, majority Shaigia and a few Jaalin also Nafiab, Awaida, and Ababda. Headquarters of the Egyptian Cavalry: four squadrons, also one field artillery battery. Railway workshops and good railway station. Headquarters of Shendi District and residence of a British Inspector, Mamur, etc. Post and telegraph offices. Excellent climate. Houses of mud. There is a good market, but not to be compared with that of former days, when Shendi was an important place and had 7,000 inhabitants. The town was once the capital of the ancient kingdom of Meroe, and is said by some to have been the residence of the Queen of Sheba. Bruce says the women of Shendi were noted as being the most beautiful in the Sudan. It was here that Ismail Pasha, son of Mohammed Ali, Khedive of Egypt, was burnt in his hut by Mek Nimr, in 1822, in revenge for his barbarities. To avenge Ismail’s death the town and inhabitants were destroyed in 1823 by order of Mohammed Ali. The Nimr family are now in poor circumstances.

There is excellent grazing along the banks of the river at almost all seasons of the year.

Shendi was occupied by Major T. Hickman with the 15th Egyptian Battalion on 26th March, 1898, after a short fight.

Government steam engines have been erected here with a view to cultivation by the Supply Department of the Army. The natives here have learnt to appreciate such agricultural implements as iron sagias and ploughs of English pattern, and are anxious to acquire them.

WAD BAN NAGA.—There is a railway station here about 24 miles from Shendi. Sauarab and Aonia Arabs, and others, such as Deshiab Batahin, Ababda, and Hassania, come here for grazing. It belongs to the Shendi District, of the Berber Province. For the antiquities in the neighbourhood _vide_ Appendix D.

GEILI.—Situated on right bank of Nile, 28 miles north of Khartoum North, is the residence of Zubeir Pasha and his following, who belong mostly to the Gemaab tribe, a branch of the Jaalin. There are also Batahin and Hassania here. There is a railway station at Wad Ramla, 1½ miles to the north.

[Sidenote: Villages on the Blue Nile. (R.B.)]

KHARTOUM NORTH.—On the right bank of the Blue Nile immediately opposite Khartoum. The name applies to several small detached villages, such as Gubbat Khojali, Hellet Hamad, etc. The inhabitants consists of Jaalin, Shaigia, Mahas, Mogharba, Khojalab, etc., under Omda Mohammed Osman Ibrahim. (For description _see_ Chap. II, p. 49.)

EILAFUN.—On right bank Blue Nile, 19½ miles by road from Khartoum. A very neatly-kept village of Mahas and Shaigia, under Omda Mohammed Abd El Kader. It belongs to Kamlin district of Gezira Province. There is a mosque here, as to the Khalifaship of which there are frequent squabbles.

About 7 miles east of Eilafun is the village of Um Dibban, the abode of the three brothers, sons of the famous religious Sheikh El Obeid, the powerful and fanatical Mahdist leader who defeated Mohammed Ali Pasha at Um Dibban in September, 1884, and who was the first Dervish Commander to besiege Khartoum. They have a private mosque here, and though primarily a religious family, they aspire to considerable temporal power.

RUFAA.—Situated on the right bank of Blue Nile, 95 miles by land, by river 104 miles, from Khartoum. The population of the town and surrounding district numbers 30,000, and is mainly composed of Shukria Arabs. Others are Batahin, Sherafa, Jaalin, Mogharba, etc. There is one Greek trader here who carried on business here throughout the Mahdia. The houses are mostly grass tukls. No post or telegraph office. Nearest is at Kamlin.

_Routes._

Route reports referring to the principal caravan routes are given in Vol. II, Chap. IV. There is also a caravan route from Gedaref, _viâ_ El Sadda, Rera, Abu Deleig, and Um Hatab to El Damer. Caravans, however, usually strike the Nile at Kabushia after leaving Um Hatab. From Kabushia a track leads due east to Adarama.