Chapter XII: Section 2: Merowe to Khartoum (1)

SUB-SECTION (A). MEROWE TO ABU HAMED.

The distinguishing feature of the river between Merowe and Abu Hamed is the difficulty of navigation, and also of communications along either bank. A variety of rapids, mostly impassable except at high Nile, form the 4th Cataract, which extends practically from Belal to Shirri, a distance of about 67 miles, whilst there are little or no cultivation or supplies, except in patches on either bank. This (Rapids) portion of the river was ascended in whale boats by most of the River Column in 1885, and the right bank was traversed by General Hunter’s flying column in 1897, when proceeding to attack Abu Hamed. Otherwise it is not now generally in use for communications,[25] owing to these obvious difficulties. A telegraph line now connects Merowe with Abu Hamed.

[The reader who may wish for further detail than that given below is referred to “N.O.” 1st and 2nd editions (1897 and 1898), which give some additional reports by slightly different routes.]

REMARKS ON THE SHAIGIA CATARACTS.

(_Lieut. Poore, R.N., October_, 1884.)

The prevailing winds are north-easterly and boats can rarely use their sails, excepting occasionally at high Nile when a southerly wind may blow for a few days.

Boats leaving Ambugol for Abu Hamed invariably have to tow the whole way.

The pilots state the average passage of a nugger[26] from Merowe to Abu Hamed as being from 35 to 40 days, but they appear to perform the journey in parties of about 10 boats, in order to supply their own hauling labour, thus considerably increasing the time of passage.

Nuggers generally leave Debba on the trip to Abu Hamed 20 days before high Nile and try to time their arrival at Abu Hamed as soon as possible after the river begins to fall.

Steamers should not leave Merowe for Abu Hamed later than 10 days after high Nile.

Nuggers should not leave Merowe for Abu Hamed later than 15 days after high Nile.

There are men in the village of Bela at the foot of the Gerendid Cataract and in a few of the villages near Merowe who are acquainted with the different cataracts, but would seem to be more useful as guides to point out the different channels than as pilots, their knowledge of boats or nuggers seeming very limited.

It would be advisable to take pilots for the cataracts from the rais of nuggers.

Supplies between the cataract of Gerendid and Abu Hamed are very scanty, a few scattered patches of date palms, wheat and dura constituting all cultivation.

Between the different cataracts the banks appear to be rocky and badly adapted for towing. The stream is swift with frequent sharp bends and the river studded with rocks and small islands.

Confusion may arise from the custom of the pilots and natives in continuing the terms east and west as regards the river banks after the river has turned to the northward at Ambugol; the right bank being invariably termed the east and _vice versâ_ without reference to the direction of the river. Thus, between Ambugol and Abu Hamed, a wind which is termed by the pilots south-westerly is in reality north-easterly.

REPORT ON PASSAGE OF 4TH CATARACT BY NUGGERS AND GAYASSAS.

(_Captain W. Doran, August_, 1897.)

The following is a report on the river between Kassingar and Amari, together with remarks on points that have come under my observation:—

Nuggers with a strong favourable wind can get up to Meshra El Abiad, but there is a strong current below Meshra El Abiad for about 3 or 4 miles, and the track (on the right bank) is rocky, or much obstructed by sunt trees.

Meshra El Abiad presents no great difficulty. About 50 men will pull a nugger of 200 ardebs through in half an hour.

For about 3 miles after leaving Meshra El Abiad, the channel on the right bank presents no difficulty, though the stream is strong, and the banks steep and covered with sunt bushes, which at high Nile will impede towing.

About 5 miles from Meshra El Abiad the banks become rocky, and rapids are met with; the water being very bad, and rocks numerous. I crossed this rapid, which is about a mile in length, and extends to just below the village of Shebabik, in half a gale. Otherwise, I should think the passage would be difficult, as the rocks on the right bank are very steep, and without a strong wind portage would probably be necessary. From Shebabik village, by following a channel on the right bank past the village of Abu Haraz, good water is met with for about 6 miles, till the cataract of Halfaya is reached.

From Halfaya to the village of Amari, a distance of about 2 miles, the river is very difficult, tortuous, and rocky, towing being necessary throughout.

From Amari, I am informed, the river is not difficult.

It must be understood that these remarks refer to the river as I found it. Any rise or fall may make difficult places easy, and _vice versâ_.

I would venture to make the following suggestions for future river convoys:—

1. That only boats of 150 ardebs should be sent up at present. Large boats are unwieldy, cause great delay, break ropes, and run the risk of losing stores. For example, one of my boats of 300 ardebs took 4 hours to get up a place which boats of 150 ardebs crossed in an hour. It broke two ropes, and was nearly wrecked on several occasions, besides being always a source of delay to the rest of the convoy. The exertion caused to the men in hauling these heavy boats is very great, much greater than that of hauling two boats of half the capacity.

2. Each convoy should consist of not more than 20 boats under a British officer, and should have with it two companies (200 men) of an Egyptian battalion to haul the boats over the cataracts, and in the ordinary stream when the wind is unfavourable. If the water proves easy beyond this place, Amari, these men might return to Merowe from here by return convoy. Men who are good swimmers should be selected, if possible, and, as the work entails great exertion on the men—most of them having to stand work in the water all day—the companies should be relieved after one or two trips.

Unless considered necessary for safety, these men should not bring arms or ammunition with them, except just sufficient for a small guard, as these have to be portaged across bad places, causing delay.

The large cooking pot, “kazan,” is not suitable for these occasions, as men are often separated on islands from the rest of the convoy at night time, and are unable to get their proper food after a hard day’s work. Something of the Flanders kettle type would be better.

3. Each convoy should be provided with four strong hemp ropes of at least 200 fathoms each, in addition to the smaller ropes carried by each boat. These latter should be inspected before the convoy starts.

A small boat of about 50 ardebs would also be most useful to enable the officer in charge of the convoy to go up and down his convoy, and also to assist in the portage of stores from the nearer boats when they get stuck in shallow places or rocks.

REPORT ON THE PASSAGE OF GUNBOATS FROM MEROWE TO ABU HAMED, 9TH
TO 29TH AUGUST, 1897 (_vide_ 1489, MEROWE AND ABU HAMED SHEETS.)[27]

(_Commander Colin Keppel, R.N._)

To Kasinjar on right bank, river broad, navigation simple. No obstacles. Thence to Kenisha, navigation easy.

At Meshra El Abiad there is a difficult, narrow passage between two rocky islands, with a very sharp turn. Water very rapid, which continues until Um Deras Island is reached.

N.B.—The cataract marked on the official map as El Dermi was not recognisable at this time of the year.

Um Deras Island is practically at the foot of what is termed the Gab El Abd, or 4th Cataract, it was from thence that a course by the left bank was followed by the river column in 1884-85. This channel was found to be so difficult and dangerous at high Nile, it was decided to examine the channel by the right bank. This was found to be more easily navigable for steamers at this time of the year. It should, however, be noted that this channel, though navigable for steamers at high Nile, and undoubtedly the only channel to be followed with safety at that time, would be impassable at any other time of the year. As at low Nile, many parts of it are dry.

From Um Deras Island to the point marked Khor Abu Herejil (north bank) (A),[27] no great difficulties are encountered.

At this point all guns, ammunition stores, and heavy gear of every description were taken out of the steamers and portaged to the camp of El Bana, a distance of about 2 miles.

The following arrangements were then made for passing the steamers over this cataract:—

A wire hawser was fastened round the ship. Two hawsers were then led out of the steamer, one for hauling, and other to serve as a guy to steady her, and to prevent her bow from being taken round by the force of water.

About 600 yards up-stream, at the junction of a smaller channel (B), these hawsers were slipped, and the steamer reached the southernmost point of the next bend (C).

From this point to a point 1,100 yards up-stream (D) the greatest difficulties were met with, owing to the necessity of passing ropes on to the island 300 yards up-stream (E). As many men as could swim had to cross over to this island. The steamer was then hauled up to the southern end of the island.

The rope had now to be passed from the island (E) to point (D).

At point (D) the haulage became very difficult, as the river thence, for 600 yards, to point (G), in mid-stream, is intersected by isolated rocks, upon which it was necessary to have groups of men in order to pass the rope from one rock to another. From point (G) the hawser was then led to the mainland. Guy ropes were used throughout.

After passing the rock marked (G) powerful steamers, of the “Zafir” class, were able to steam, without further haulage, to El Bana, but otherwise it was necessary to use ropes for hauling up to El Bana.

On leaving El Bana, the channel on the right bank was followed, and though the water was rapid in places, rushing between numerous small islands, no great difficulty was encountered until arrival at the foot of the Geridu (Geriddo) Rapids (3¼ miles up). Here it was necessary to tie up to the bank in order that each steamer might pass over the rapid separately.

It will be seen that the channel takes a very sharp turn here (between points A and B); a large volume of water rushes with considerable force between an island (440 yards long, with a rock at the west end) and the south bank (a promontory on the south bank), where a rope was attached to a rock, and then gradually eased off to let the bow go round.

From Geridu to Hosh El Geruf the channel is devoid of obstacles.

The channel taken was by the right, until El Shwadiyat was reached, whence it crosses to the left bank and continues thus as far as Rakabat El Gamal; here the river becomes a maze of small islands. The channel continues by the left (?) bank of Dulka Island (known by the natives as Dirbi), smaller islands being left on the starboard side.

The current thence became very strong, and continued so until Kirbekan Rapids was reached.

At the bottom of these rapids the steamers were stopped, but the cataract, after examination, having been considered passable without haulage, each steamer went over it separately, in order to prevent any risk of one hampering another.

The main stream was then followed as far as Uss Rapids; here the volume of water was very great. From the top of Uss Rapids the channel followed was by the left bank as far as Sherari Island, whence it passes by the right bank of that island, and thence between it and Shirri Island to the right bank of the river.

The river now becomes very broad, and navigation is practicable on either bank from Salamat to Hebi. From Hebi to Abu Selem the channel is by the left bank. In Huella Rapids there was a strong rush of water.

The river now becomes much intersected by small islands, and, though navigation is not very difficult, skilful pilotage is necessary.

Wood was found in the following places:—

El Bana. Salamat.

Hosh El Geruf. Abu Selem.

Uss village. Left bank, just below Mograt Island.

ITINERARY (LEFT BANK) FROM ABU DOM SANAM TO OPPOSITE HEBI (OR HEBBA)

(_Major Slade, R.A., February_, 1885.)

--------------+---------------------+--------------------------------
| Distance in miles. |
Names of +-------------+-------+
Places. | | Total | Description.
|Intermediate.| from |
| |Merowe.|
--------------+-------------+-------+--------------------------------
El Dueim | 3 | 3 |A small scattered village; a
| | |large white-domed tomb makes it
| | |visible for some distance.
| | |
Sagag | 1 | 4 |A compact hamlet, mostly of
| | |straw huts, ¼ mile from the
| | |river. The banks, which for the
| | |last 4 miles have been bare,
| | |here become studded with palms.
| | |
Gereif | 1 | 5 |A collection of wells and
| | |sagias from which the ground is
| | |cultivated. The uncultivated
| | |ground is covered with coarse
| | |grass. A low range of hills
| | |here touches the south of the
| | |road.
| | |
Nurri | 2 | 7 |This village extends a
| | |considerable distance inland.
| | |Near it, to the south of the
| | |road are 11 pyramids. Soon
| | |after leaving them the alluvial
| | |ground over which the road has
| | |hitherto passed gives place to
| | |sand.
| | |
Belal | 1 | 8 |A large well-built village. The
| | |road here runs close to the
| | |river between small patches of
| | |cultivation and a track of very
| | |broken rocky ground, which
| | |comes to within ¼ mile of the
| | |river. This stony tract is
| | |about 50 feet above the
| | |alluvial ground. At the east
| | |end of the village a break in
| | |the cultivation leaves room for
| | |a small camp on the river bank.
| | |
Khor-el-Sorawi| 3 | 11 |A dry watercourse, 20 yards
| | |wide. It shows signs of out-
| | |pouring a considerable stream
| | |in the rainy season. 1 mile
| | |further to the east the river
| | |makes a sharp bend to the
| | |north-east, the edge of broken
| | |ground continuing to run in an
| | |easterly direction. The road
| | |takes an intermediate course
| | |across a plain of firm gravel
| | |which lies between the rocks
| | |and the river.
| | |
Kanisa | 1 | 12 |A small village ½ mile to the
| | |north of the road, at the foot
| | |of a small rocky hill, in an
| | |angle of the river.
| | |
El Dugaiyet | 1 | 13 |A scattered village. The broken
| | |ground here again comes to
| | |within ½ mile of the river.
| | |There is a good camping ground
| | |on the river bank near the
| | |village. The road to Bir Sani
| | |and Berber here branches off.
| | |It runs at first over very
| | |rocky ground. There are said to
| | |be 90 islands in the river
| | |between this place and Belal.
| | |The cultivation of the district
| | |is for the most part on these
| | |islands.
| | |
Hamdab | 5 | 18 |A very long village with a fair
| | |amount of cultivation. The road
| | |from Dugaiyet runs between the
| | |broken ground and thick bush.
| | |Just before reaching Hamdab the
| | |rocky ground opens out
| | |considerably at the mouth of
| | |the Khor El Shungui. A good
| | |camping ground on the river
| | |bank. The road described from
| | |Hamdab onwards was followed by
| | |part of River Column, 1885.
| | |
| | |Dates, dura, cotton, dukhn, and
| | |barley grown. The road to
| | |Berber leaves the river about 2
| | |miles below Hamdab, crossing
| | |the rocky ground at a point
| | |marked by two solitary dom
| | |palms.
| | |
| | |Good camping ground for a large
| | |force, commanded by rocky
| | |ridge, 400 yards from river.
| | |
Jebel Kulgeili| 4 | 22 |The road as far as Jebel
| | |Kulgeili skirts the belt of
| | |cultivation, which is
| | |interspersed with a few native
| | |houses. It is commanded the
| | |whole way by a low ridge of
| | |rocks, at a distance from the
| | |river varying from 50 to 500
| | |yards.
| | |
| | |Jebel Kulgeili, 400 feet high,
| | |commands the surrounding
| | |country for a distance of
| | |several miles. The direct
| | |desert road to Berti (19 miles)
| | |leaves the river at the foot of
| | |this hill.
| | |
| | |The road, after leaving
| | |Kulgeili, becomes rocky and
| | |much cut up by ravines and
| | |sandy khors, gradually becoming
| | |more difficult as the islands
| | |of Auli are approached. The
| | |river between Hamdab and Auli
| | |is quite open, and free from
| | |broken water.
| | |
Auli | 8 | 30 |At Auli the cataract of Terai
| | |commences; but it is not
| | |difficult. There are several
| | |houses and much cultivation on
| | |the islands and on the left
| | |bank. Good camping grounds are
| | |to be found.
| | |
El Kabur | 3 | 33 |Cultivation extends along the
| | |road, broken at times by rocky
| | |and barren ground. At El Kabur,
| | |which is situated at the end of
| | |the nest of islands which forms
| | |the 4th or Edermi Cataract,
| | |there is scanty cultivation and
| | |a few houses.
| | |
| | |From Auli to El Kabur by water
| | |the boat channel follows the
| | |right bank. There is one
| | |difficult gate, about two-
| | |thirds of the way up, at which
| | |heavy stores have to be
| | |portaged. The country to the
| | |east of the road along the left
| | |bank is very rocky and broken,
| | |and nearly impracticable for
| | |cavalry.
| | |
Kabeinat | 1 | 34 |The road leaves the river at El
(ruined forts)| | |Kabur and follows the bed of a
| | |sandy khor until an old ruined
| | |fort built upon a rocky
| | |prominence commanding the river
| | |is reached. The rocky and
| | |broken ground skirts the river
| | |between El Kabur and Kabeinat,
| | |and is impracticable for
| | |cavalry. Opposite this ruined
| | |fort there is another of a
| | |similar kind. The river between
| | |these two forts is very narrow,
| | |and forms the commencement of
| | |the Kabeinat Cataract.
| | |
Mushani ridge | 5 | 39 |The road skirts the river bank;
| | |but although the country is
| | |more open than that previously
| | |travelled it is broken at parts
| | |by rocky ridges and deep
| | |ravines. Much acacia and many
| | |dom palms are found.
| | |
| | |Kabeinat Cataract presents no
| | |difficulty to navigation, and
| | |although the current is rapid,
| | |no broken water offering
| | |serious impediments to the
| | |passage of boats, is met with
| | |until the Gab El Abd Gate, 2
| | |miles above the ruined forts,
| | |is reached. Here there is a
| | |direct fall of water which,
| | |however, can be avoided by
| | |going over to the right bank.
| | |From this point to Mushani
| | |ridge, which may be called the
| | |upper end of Gab El Abd
| | |Cataract, the river presents
| | |most serious difficulties.
| | |Tracking from rocks and islands
| | |has invariably to be resorted
| | |to, and at low Nile it is
| | |doubtful whether even light
| | |boats could be taken up this
| | |part of the river.
| | |
| | |Mushani Ridge commands the
| | |country to the north-east as
| | |far as the distant hills
| | |overlooking Berti. The ridge
| | |runs at right angles to the
| | |river, and the rocks and
| | |boulders in which it terminates
| | |come down close to the left
| | |bank of the river. There is but
| | |little cultivation along this
| | |part of the river, except on
| | |the islands of Umderas and
| | |Amri, the former of which is
| | |passed just after leaving
| | |Kabeinat, and at the village of
| | |Shebabik on the right bank
| | |opposite the lower end of
| | |Umderas Island.
| | |
Warrak | 1 | 40 |There is a large tomb and a few
| | |detached huts at this point,
| | |with a certain amount of
| | |cultivation, very good camping
| | |grounds, much mimosa, and many
| | |dom-palm trees.
| | |
| | |The cataract of Um Hababoa is
| | |here met with, lying between
| | |Kandi Island and the left bank.
| | |It is very difficult, and it is
| | |supposed, from the remains of
| | |wreckage found lying about, it
| | |was near this point that Ismail
| | |Pacha abandoned his boats in
| | |1820.
| | |
| | |This cataract can be avoided at
| | |high Nile by going between the
| | |islands of Amri and Kandi, the
| | |passage between which islands
| | |was nearly dry in February,
| | |1885.
| | |
| | |A track leads from Warrak to
| | |Berti, across rocky and broken
| | |ground; but it is not much
| | |shorter than that generally
| | |followed.
| | |
Gamra | 2 | 42 |The road skirts the river
| | |through considerable
| | |cultivation, mostly dukhn. At
| | |Gamra, which is opposite the
| | |upper end of Kandi Island,
| | |there are several native huts,
| | |and good camping grounds can
| | |everywhere be found.
| | |
| | |The river between Warrak and
| | |Gamra is not difficult; but
| | |there is a very swift current,
| | |and tracking is necessary at
| | |certain points from the left
| | |bank.
| | |
| | |One mile beyond Gamra the road
| | |leaves the river to avoid the
| | |rocky kopjes which command the
| | |foot and mark the commencement
| | |of the Rahami Cataract. It
| | |strikes the river again 2 miles
| | |below Berti. It is very rocky,
| | |and much cut up by deep khors
| | |and ravines.
| | |
| | |A broad, sandy khor leaves the
| | |river 1½ miles above Gamra, and
| | |runs away to the east until
| | |lost in the desert.
| | |
| | |By following this khor until it
| | |strikes the Kulgeili-Berti
| | |road, the mountains and rocky
| | |country overlooking Berti can
| | |be avoided, and Berti entered
| | |at its upper end.
| | |
| | |The river between the foot of
| | |Rahami Cataract and Berti
| | |offers most serious obstacles
| | |to navigation. The boat channel
| | |lies along the right bank.
| | |
Berti | 6 | 48 |Berti is a scattered village
| | |extending over a length of 2
| | |miles. It is situated mostly on
| | |an island which, however, forms
| | |part of the mainland at low
| | |Nile. The cultivation is very
| | |rich and plentiful, and barley,
| | |dura, cotton, wheat, beans,
| | |dates, and dukhn grow in great
| | |abundance. This is the boundary
| | |between Dongola and Berber
| | |Provinces.
| | |
| | |The lower end of the village is
| | |situated in rocky ground, but
| | |the larger portion lies in the
| | |open.
| | |
| | |The direct road from Jebel
| | |Kulgeili enters near the house
| | |of Suleiman Wad Gamr, about
| | |half-way up the village.
| | |
| | |Berti is the head-quarters of
| | |the Monasir tribe, and is on
| | |the boundary between Berber and
| | |Dongola Provinces.
| | |
| | |The island of Ishashi is passed
| | |just before reaching Berti, and
| | |is very richly cultivated.
| | |
Jebel Kirbekan| 8 | 56 |Between Berti and El Kirbekan
| | |there are several pieces of
| | |broken water, but nothing
| | |worthy of the term “cataract”
| | |is to be met with until
| | |opposite Dulka Island, where
| | |the cataract of Ragabat El
| | |Gamal obstructs the river; it
| | |is not difficult. Boni Island
| | |lies on the right side of the
| | |river, abreast of and
| | |overlapping Dulka Island, and
| | |between it and the right bank
| | |the cataract of Abu Sayal is
| | |situated. It is impassable at
| | |low Nile. In the centre of Boni
| | |Island, and in prolongation of
| | |the Kirbekan ridge, is a
| | |remarkable round-topped
| | |mountain, which can be seen for
| | |several miles before Boni
| | |Island is reached.
| | |
| | |On leaving the belt of
| | |cultivation at Berti, the track
| | |leaves the river and winds
| | |through a mass of rocks and
| | |boulders until it again strikes
| | |the river opposite a small
| | |island, on which are the
| | |remains of a ruined castle
| | |(Castle Camp of River Column);
| | |distance from Berti, 6 miles.
| | |Scant cultivation and a good
| | |camping ground for a small
| | |force are here to be found.
| | |
| | |After leaving the bank opposite
| | |the ruined castle, the track
| | |again quits the river and
| | |follows the bed of a sandy
| | |khor, interrupted in parts by
| | |belts of rocks and boulders
| | |until the river is again struck
| | |opposite Dulka Island (6½ miles
| | |from Castle Camp), where there
| | |is a good camping ground amidst
| | |patches of cultivation. One and
| | |a half miles beyond this point
| | |the long razor-backed hill,
| | |running at right angles to the
| | |course of the Nile, and known
| | |as Jebel Kirbekan (300 feet),
| | |is situated. It completely
| | |blocks the road, but can be
| | |easily turned by marching round
| | |its south-west extremity.
| | |
| | |The action of 10.2.85 took
| | |place here.
| | |
El Kirbekan | 4 | 60 |On leaving Jebel Kirbekan, the
(village) | | |track follows the bed of a
| | |sandy khor, much broken in
| | |places by rocks, &c., for 4
| | |miles, when the village of El
| | |Kirbekan, at the lower entrance
| | |of the Shukuk Pass, is reached.
| | |Here there are a few mud
| | |houses, palm trees, and some
| | |scant vegetation; barley, dura,
| | |and dukhn.
| | |
| | |The Wadi El Arku, which breaks
| | |up into several outlets on
| | |nearing the river, comes out at
| | |this point, and it is here that
| | |the direct road to Abu Egli (78
| | |miles), _viâ_ the Jura Wells
| | |(48 miles), leaves the river.
| | |
Shukuk Pass | ½ | 60½ |The Shukuk Pass is entered
(south end) | | |immediately after leaving El
| | |Kirbekan. The track leaves the
| | |river, and follows the bed of a
| | |sandy khor, completely
| | |commanded by rocky heights
| | |varying from 20 feet to 100
| | |feet, until Jebel Shukuk (350
| | |feet) is reached. This
| | |mountain, with its conspicuous
| | |marble tops, marks the half-way
| | |through the Pass.
| | |
| | |Leaving Jebel Shukuk on the
| | |left-hand side, the track
| | |inclines towards the river, the
| | |Pass becomes narrower and more
| | |difficult, and at places it is
| | |impossible for more than one
| | |loaded camel to pass at a time.
| | |The track at this point is
| | |nearly impracticable, and it is
| | |with the greatest difficulty
| | |that even horses can keep their
| | |footing.
| | |
Shukuk Pass | 7½ | 68 |The Shukuk Pass terminates
(north end) | | |suddenly opposite the upper end
| | |of Uss Island, and at the
| | |commencement of Shoar Island,
| | |on which latter island there
| | |are many small villages, and
| | |much cultivation.
| | |
| | |The Shukuk Pass can be turned
| | |by leaving the river at El
| | |Kirbekan, striking into the
| | |desert and skirting the whole
| | |block of mountains through
| | |which the pass runs. This is an
| | |easy half-day’s camel ride, but
| | |there is no water along the
| | |road.
| | |
| | |Capt. Maxse says (1897) the
| | |pass is 7 miles long; there is
| | |water at each end, and the
| | |going is good, with the
| | |exception of ½ mile at the
| | |south-west entrance, and ¾ mile
| | |at the north-east exit.
| | |
| | |During that first ½ mile at the
| | |entrance the roadway is narrow
| | |and intricate, the path being
| | |strewn with quantities of small
| | |loose locks and boulders. These
| | |could be cleared away. The
| | |labour thus expended would
| | |greatly facilitate all
| | |subsequent movements of troops
| | |and transport.
| | |
| | |The ¾ mile of exit could
| | |similarly be much improved by
| | |manual labour. A little
| | |blasting would help still more
| | |here.
| | |
| | |There is, however, 100 yards of
| | |pathway at the bottom of a deep
| | |cutting, which would defy
| | |ordinary appliances. Still
| | |there is room for a loaded
| | |camel, and the removal of loose
| | |stones would make even this bit
| | |easy.
| | |
| | |The interior of the pass is
| | |mostly a broad, level, sandy
| | |khor, varying in width from 5
| | |yards to 200 yards.
| | |
| | |Should the pass be held by a
| | |stubborn foe, it can be turned
| | |without difficulty from the
| | |east.
| | |
| | |The river between El Kirbekan
| | |and the end of the Shukuk Pass
| | |is clear and free from
| | |obstacles, though it flows at
| | |times between steep and rocky
| | |banks.
| | |
| | |Just as the upper end of Uss
| | |Island is reached, a small
| | |rapid has to be passed which is
| | |not, however, very difficult.
| | |
| | |Both north and south of the
| | |Shukuk Pass there are numerous
| | |drawings of a rough description
| | |representing cattle, monkeys,
| | |and dogs, probably the same
| | |period as those at Murrat—2nd
| | |and 3rd century A.D. (Major Sir
| | |H. Hill, Bart.).
| | |
Salamat | 12 | 80 |On debouching from the Shukuk
| | |Pass, the country commences to
| | |open out, and the hills to
| | |recede further from the river.
| | |The track follows the bank,
| | |which now commences to become
| | |more generally cultivated. Just
| | |before coming abreast of Shoar
| | |Island, the track ascends a
| | |rocky plateau, from the summit
| | |of which the first view of
| | |Jebel Osma is obtained.
| | |
| | |The Island of Sherrai follows
| | |Shoar Island, but it is very
| | |barren and rocky. One mile up
| | |this island the cataract of
| | |Tuari is passed. It is very
| | |difficult, and the river is
| | |here much broken by rocks and
| | |shallows.
| | |
| | |After passing Tuari Cataract
| | |the cultivation increases still
| | |more, and sagias and groups of
| | |date palms occur at frequent
| | |intervals along the bank. The
| | |fertile and densely populated
| | |Island of Sherri succeeds that
| | |of Sherrari.
| | |
| | |The track continues along the
| | |bank of the river, deviating
| | |occasionally to avoid clusters
| | |of rocks on a khor, until
| | |Salamat, opposite the upper end
| | |of Sherri Island, is reached.
| | |
| | |It is at this point that the
| | |cataract of Um Deras is placed
| | |on the official maps, but no
| | |impediment to navigation
| | |exists.
| | |
| | |Salamat, the principal village
| | |in the Monasir country, is a
| | |long straggling village of
| | |fairly-built mud huts, the
| | |principal of which belong to
| | |Suleiman Wad Gamr and his
| | |uncles, Omar and Abu Bakr. The
| | |country is very rich and there
| | |are several large groups of
| | |palm trees.
| | |
| | |The desert comes down to the
| | |bank of the river on the right
| | |bank, just above Salamat.
| | |
| | |The track, after leaving
| | |Salamat, follows the bank of
| | |the river until Jebel Osma is
| | |reached, 3 miles
| | |
| | |Leaving this solitary mountain
| | |on the left, a detour of 1 mile
| | |is made, where the river is
| | |again struck. A broad sandy
| | |khor runs at the foot of Jebel
| | |Osma. The bank is now followed
| | |until abreast of the village of
Opposite Hebi,| 8 | 88 |Hebi, situated on the right
or Hebba | | |bank. The road is good
| | |throughout. Patches of rich
| | |cultivation are constantly met
| | |with, near groups of huts built
| | |in the rocks and boulders,
| | |which are left on the right-
| | |hand side.
| | |
| | |There are two broad khors
| | |running into the desert between
| | |Salamat and Jebel Osma. Mimosa
| | |or sûnt trees, of an unusually
| | |large size, are met with along
| | |the road. The river is free
| | |from obstruction.
| | |
| | |If going to Abu Hamed, it is
| | |advisable to cross the Nile
| | |opposite Hebi, where the river
| | |affords great facilities for
| | |crossing and swimming animals.
| | |The island of Kan and smaller
| | |islands on the right bank may
| | |be utilized in the crossing.
| | |Lieut.-Colonel Stewart’s
| | |steamer, on its way from
| | |Khartoum, was wrecked on the
| | |island of Kan on the 18th
| | |September, 1884, and he and his
| | |party were treacherously
| | |murdered in the house of one
| | |named Othman Fakri, commonly
| | |known as Othman Amian, in the
| | |village of Hebi.
| | |
| | |Hebi is a straggling village,
| | |composed of small mud huts,
| | |built in the rocks. There are
| | |some conspicuous palm trees on
| | |the bank of the river. The
| | |village was completely
| | |destroyed by the British troops
| | |in February, 1885. There is
| | |much cultivation in and near
| | |Hebi: dura, dukhn, barley,
| | |beans, etc., growing in
| | |luxuriance.
--------------+-------------+-------+--------------------------------

OLD MEROWE TO ABU HAMED, BY THE RIGHT BANK OF THE NILE.

(_Major Hon. M. G. Talbot, R.E., October_, 1897.)

General Notes.

(i.) The grazing for camels is moderate.

(ii.) The places where water can be obtained depend on the time of
the year. The bed of the river is the only source of supply.

(iii.) No considerable elevation is crossed anywhere. Probably the
road is never more than 100 to 150 feet above high Nile level.

(iv.) Telegraph line follows road where not otherwise mentioned.

(v.) No supplies obtainable on right bank.

--------------+---------------------+--------------------------------
| Distance in miles. |
Names of +-------------+-------+
Places. | | Total | Description.
|Intermediate.| from |
| |Merowe.|
--------------+-------------+-------+--------------------------------
Old Merowe | | |Village.
| | |
J. Barkal | 4 | 4 |Two miles inland. Ancient
| | |ruined pyramids at base. Desert
| | |road from Dongola joins river
| | |here.
| | |
Kasinjar | 4 | 8 |Telegraph line crosses from
| | |left to right bank here.
| | |
| | |Small fort.
| | |
Amrao | 19 | 17 |On leaving Kasinjar fort the
| | |road curves round with the
| | |river, but gradually recedes
| | |from it. After 2 miles of good
| | |firm sand, with thin thorny
| | |scrub, the road turns away from
| | |the river to the north-east,
| | |passing to the right of Jebel
| | |Wad El Duga, beyond which it
| | |turns N.N.E., over undulating,
| | |stony ground, draining to
| | |right. The going is good to 11
| | |miles. At about 13 miles road
| | |passes into a shallow basin
| | |draining east, from which it
| | |emerges at 14½ miles, and
| | |begins to descend to river by a
| | |bad path down and across small
| | |khors. Reaches river at Meshra
| | |El Abiad, a good watering
| | |place, at 15¾ miles. From 11 to
| | |14½ miles the road, though
| | |generally good, is less so than
| | |before, and passes over bits of
| | |stony ground, which would be
| | |very troublesome at night or
| | |even for a considerable body
| | |marching by day. From Meshra El
| | |Abiad road runs along river
| | |bank; good going for camels,
| | |and some grass and thorn
| | |grazing. A few huts at Amrao,
| | |where there is plenty of room
| | |to camp and some shade.
| | |
| | |There is also a road by the
| | |river, which was used by
| | |General Hunter’s column. It is
| | |said to be bad and to take
| | |baggage camels 5 hours.
| | |
| | |Desert road leaves river at
| | |once and follows telegraph wire
| | |for 3½ miles, when latter
| | |strikes off to right to river,
| | |and continues along it to Abu
| | |Haraz. To 3½ miles road is
| | |good, in flat khor, few bushes
| | |on left, and gigantic boulders
| | |on right. Keeps on straight to
| | |8 miles, crossing plain strewn
| | |with scattered ridges of
| | |granite boulders, and then
| | |turns slightly to right down to
Abu Haraz | 9½ | 36½ |river at Abu Haraz, 9 miles,
| | |where there are a few ruined
| | |mud houses, and a clump of
| | |palms at 9½ miles, with camp
| | |and shade for a battalion. No
| | |water along road.
| | |
| | |For 4½ miles road winds in and
| | |out of low slaty and granitic
| | |ridges, with strip of good sand
| | |between, keeping generally near
| | |the river. It then leaves the
| | |river near Khor Abu Herejil and
| | |strikes across low slatey
| | |ridges to about 7½ miles, when
| | |it again strikes an arm of the
| | |river, dry at this season,
| | |along which it keeps for 1
| | |mile, and then across broad,
Hosh El Geruf | 12 | 48½ |low open plateau to Hosh El
| | |Geruf. Like all the names in
| | |this part, Hosh El Geruf is
| | |applied to a strip along the
| | |river, rather than to any one
| | |spot or village. The spot
| | |referred to here is a clump of
| | |palms, at the foot of a low
| | |hill, near a little
| | |cultivation.
| | |
| | |Road generally bad, quite
| | |unsuitable for wheels. It
| | |follows river at starting for 1
| | |mile, and then, leaving it,
| | |winds up and down khors and
| | |over low rocky ridges almost
| | |the whole way. From about 8½ to
| | |10 miles is the worst bit. Here
| | |horses should be led in single
| | |file, after that road enters
| | |sandy plain and is good to 13
| | |miles, when it commences to
| | |cross low ridges again. At 13½
| | |miles the river is seen for the
| | |first time and the road
Salmia | 14 | 62½ |descends to Salmia, which
| | |consists of two or three groves
| | |of palms, with a field or two
| | |of dura and three or four
| | |houses of Monasir. Room to camp
| | |three or four battalions, with
| | |a little shade.
| | |
| | |Road leaves river at once, and
| | |for 1¾ miles crosses stony
| | |ground strewn with boulders. It
| | |then gets on to sandy and more
| | |open ground, and is good to 3
| | |miles when it drops down to
| | |valley of river by a bad path.
| | |Then very good sand to 4 miles,
| | |where it strikes river bank at
| | |Kamasab, just opposite Jebel
| | |Us. From here road is bad
| | |nearly to 6 miles, when a strip
| | |of good going takes it as far
| | |as Shukoka, 9 miles, where
| | |there is a little cultivation
| | |on the bank of the river and on
| | |a backwater. Southern end of
Dakhfili, | 12½ | 75 |Dakhfili is reached at 12½
south end | | |miles, road being partly along
| | |river and never very far from
| | |it, and passing several small
| | |groups of huts. Dakhfili is a
| | |large camping ground ¾ mile
| | |long, opposite Shirri Island.
| | |It has a few palms and some
| | |large sunt trees. No
| | |cultivation to speak of.
| | |
| | |There is another route to
| | |Dakhfili from Hosh El Geruf,
| | |which leaves the river at much
| | |the same place, and keeps
| | |straight across the desert to
| | |Dakhfili. It was much used by
| | |convoys, even at night, and is
| | |undoubtedly much better going
| | |than the Salmia route, and
| | |probably a couple of miles
| | |shorter, but there is no water
| | |along it.
| | |
| | |At the north-east end of
| | |Dakhfili, road leaves the
| | |river, and after 1 mile over
| | |heavy sand and sand-covered
| | |rock, emerges into the open
| | |Khor Haweili, 500 to 600 yards
| | |wide, and bounded by low sand-
| | |covered slopes. (From this
| | |point a track leads to the
| | |river and round by it to Um
| | |Duema, distance 14 to 15 miles,
| | |bad going.) Road continues up
| | |khor to 7 miles over sand and
| | |gravel, generally very good for
| | |camels, but a little soft for
| | |men and horses. Room to march
| | |in any formation. (From here
| | |desert road continues almost
El Gab, _viâ_ | 19 | 94 |straight on to El Gab, 17
Um Duema | | |miles, mostly good going, but
| | |some heavy sand for the last 3
| | |or 4 miles.) At 7½ miles the Um
| | |Duema road strikes off to right
| | |by an easy but unfrequented
| | |path over low hills partly
| | |covered with sand, and descends
| | |by a baddish path between Ab
| | |Rumeila and Hebi at 11 miles.
| | |Road continues easy but narrow
| | |along the bank, passing Hebi,
| | |12 miles, where there are a few
| | |houses, with some palms and a
| | |little cultivation, and Um
| | |Duema at 13 miles, which is
| | |similar to Hebi. At 14 miles,
| | |road enters sand which lasts to
| | |El Gab. It is heavy in places
| | |and bad for men and horses. El
| | |Gab is an ancient ruined post
| | |on a low rock overlooking the
| | |river. There is a small patch
| | |of cultivation and a few palms.
| | |Plenty of room to camp.
| | |
| | |Sand continues heavy to 2½
| | |miles, where direct road by
| | |desert leaves river and strikes
| | |it again at about 10 miles. (I
| | |did not follow this, but
| | |believe it is fairly good
| | |going.) It is possible to march
| | |along the river bank, a little
| | |longer, but the sand is
| | |heavier.
| | |
Khulla, north | 16 | 110 |Khulla is a strip of the bank
end direct | | |some 4 miles long; no houses
road | | |nor cultivation, only a few
| | |shepherds’ huts; many sunt
| | |trees and dom palms. Much room
| | |to camp and plenty of shade.
| | |The sand is piled with hillocks
| | |along the bank, and the road
| | |runs on lower ground from 100
| | |to 600 yards from river.
| | |Northern boundary of Khulla is
| | |Khor Hamadein. This was the
| | |furthest point attained by the
| | |River Column, 1885.
| | |
| | |After crossing Khor Hamadein,
| | |road keeps due east for about 4
| | |miles and passes through
| | |Gemmeiza, a district similar to
| | |Khulla, but not so well wooded.
| | |Low gravelly hills approach on
| | |right bank, and at several
| | |points tracks branch off to the
| | |left forming short cuts over
Ab Tin, by | 20 | 130 |these hills towards Ab Tin. (I
river road | | |did not travel by any of these,
| | |but I understand they are easy
| | |going.) The telegraph line
| | |follows one of these. At 4
| | |miles road turns north by
| | |baddish track, heavy and stony,
| | |following river bank, and
| | |passes small village of Tibna
| | |at 6 miles. Fair but heavyish
| | |going to 10 miles, where short
| | |cuts from Khulla and telegraph
| | |line join in. Bad going to 11
| | |miles over low, rocky ridges
| | |covered with sand; then
| | |excellent going to Ginefab, 14
| | |miles. Then ½ mile of bad
| | |going, and 5 miles good going
| | |to Shellal Gurgurib over open
| | |ground with many sunt trees; ¾
| | |mile more of good going to Ab
| | |Tin at 20 miles. This, though
| | |quite a small place, is the
| | |largest village that has been
| | |passed. It has a small area of
| | |cultivation and some palms.
| | |
| | |Road good and open, though
| | |heavy in places, for 5 miles,
| | |till it strikes railway; then
| | |heavy sand with small hillocks
| | |and many dom palms and other
| | |trees to 9 miles, where road
| | |and river turn south and track
| | |gets harder. The railway
| | |station is about 1 mile north
| | |of Abu Hamed village. Residence
| | |of Mamur and headquarters of
Abu Hamed | 10 | 140 |the district.
--------------+-------------+-------+--------------------------------

[Sidenote: Abu Hamed.]

Abu Hamed used to be chiefly notable as being the point of arrival and departure of the various caravan routes which traverse the Korosko Desert, and takes its name from a highly venerated sheikh, whose tomb is here situated. The merchants were in the habit of depositing here any articles with which they did not wish to encumber themselves during their journey through the desert, and the environs of the tomb used to be surrounded by every sort of superfluous impedimenta, left by their owners to await their return, with no other protection than that afforded by the sanctity of the defunct sheikh.

Considerable plantations of acacias and doms are found in the neighbourhood of the village, which is also remarkable for the numerous “dunes” or sand hills collected by the winds from the surrounding desert.

It is a small village, utterly destitute of supplies. The sterile desert extends to the very margin of the Nile. Altitude 1,040 feet above sea level. Desert perfectly flat. Deep sand. Major-General Hunter attacked and took the place from the Dervishes on the 7th August, 1897. (_Vide_ p. 254.) The railway reached this point from Wadi Halfa on 31st October, 1897. It is now a watering station for trains, with modern bathrooms for tourists, etc. It is the residence of the Mamur and inspector of the Monasir and Robatab Districts. It is also proposed as the junction of a branch line to Merowe.

SUB-SECTION (B).—ABU HAMED TO KHARTOUM.

Little has been recorded of the actual navigation of the river and the description of its banks between Abu Hamed and Khartoum, and especially of the stretch between Abu Hamed and Berber.

Between these two latter places the desert is broken by numerous ravines and studded with acacias and “dom” palms; the river channel is full of reefs and rapids, and navigation is at all times difficult and somewhat dangerous; cultivation only exists in scanty patches, and the inhabitants are poor and few in number. The inhabitants and cultivation are, however, increasing on both banks.

[Sidenote: Mograt Rapid.]

A couple of miles above Abu Hamed is the Mograt Rapid, consisting of a few miles of bad passages (at low Nile). After clearing the Mograt Rapid, the navigation of the river is unimpeded for about 32 miles, until Mero Island, opposite Abu Hashim, is reached.