Chapter IX: Front Matter (9)

After we had past the great and rough mountains, and were come into a very fruitful valley, which extendeth itself for a small days journey to _Orpha_, there appeared presently on each side several villages, and afterwards, the costly city against us with the castle situated on the hill, very pleasantly. Into this we got on the thirtieth at night very early, and went to lodge in the large and very well built camp, and staid there for 3 or 4 days. This town is very pleasant, pretty big with fortifications well provided. It was formerly, together with the whole country, belonging to the Kings of _Persia_, but now it is as well as the greatest part of the country, brought under the subjection of the _Turkish_ Emperor. _Orpha_ is a town of very good trade; they deal in tapestry of several sorts, some whereof are made there, and sent out to us; there is also a great deposition of merchandizes, which are brought thither from _Aleppo_, _Damascus_, _Constantinople_, and other places, to go to _Carahemit_, five days journey distant from hence, and so to be carried farther into _Media_, _Persia_, the _Indies_, _&c._ yet all these goods are brought thither in caravans by land, because there is no navigable river belonging to it. Some say that this town was anciently called _Haran_ and _Charras_, from whence the Patriarch _Abraham_ departed with his wife _Sarah_, and his brother’s son _Lot_, according to the command of God, _Gen._ chap. xii. and went forth to go into the land of _Canaan_ which the Lord had promised to give him, and there is a plentiful well still to this day called _Abraham_’s well, where the servant of _Abraham_, whom he sent into _Mesopotamia_ to the town of _Nahor_, to fetch a wife for his son _Isaac_, from his own kindred, did first see _Rebecca_, when she gave him and his camels some water to drink out of this well. And so did afterwards the Patriarch _Jacob_ when he fled from his brother _Esau_ at this same well, make himself known to _Rachel_ the daughter of _Laban_ his mother’s brother, when he removed the stone from the head of the well, and so let her sheep drink. The water of this fountain hath a more whitish troubledness than others. I have drunk of it several times out of the conduit that runs from thence into the middle of the great camp, and it hath a peculiar pleasantness, and a pleasant sweetness in it’s taste. To the same did also come the son of the pious _Tobias_, conducted by the angel _Raphael_, whom his father sent to _Rages_, now called _Edessa_, as is above-mentioned, to call in a debt from _Gabel_, as you may read in the 11th chapter of his book, when they returned by the way of _Haran_, which is half way to _Nineveh_.

After the _Jews_ had done their business there with good success, we went on in our travels again, and came again into the high and rough mountains, where we spent also the next day with great trouble and hardship, until we came again to the great river _Euphrates_ into the town _Bir_, whereof I have made mention before. And although we had no more but two half days journey to _Aleppo_, yet the _Jews_, my fellow travellers, had business in the famous town _Nisib_, which is situated on this side the river on the borders of the lesser _Armenia_, so that we were bound to go thither; so we put out again on the 6th of _February_ after their sabbath, and went through very fruitful and well cultivated corn fields to _Andeb_, towards evening. It is a pretty big town, but not very strong. It lieth on two small hills very pleasantly, so that you may see it plainly and distinctly, as soon as you come from out of the valley by the lake into the fields. Yet notwithstanding that it is so pleasantly situated, and looketh so stately at a distance, it is but pitifully built when you come within it. In former ages this town hath been several times besieged by the Kings of _Persia_, by whom it was taken at last, and kept so long, until the _Roman_ Emperor _Galienus Odenatus Palmyrenus_, took it from King _Sapor_, together with the town _Orpha_, and laid it to the _Roman_ empire again. But in these our times, to our grief, it is brought again, together with all the country, under the _Ottoman_ slavery. The inhabitants have very little trade, they live for the most part upon their estates, by cultivating their grounds, and chiefly from the fruits of vineyards and orchards, which are planted with pomegranates and figs, _&c._ so thick (that from the great quantity of trees they may have the more fruit) that you would at a distance, rather take them to be woods of wild trees, than of fruitful ones. So they send yearly many sorts of fruits, but chiefly _Cibebs_, into the eastern countries, by great caravans, whereof I have met many. After we had staid here, and I had lost a whole day, for their business sake, we broke up again directly for _Aleppo_, and having passed for several miles through rough, bad, hilly ways, we came at length into a plain, delicate and fruitful country, so fruitful of wine and corn, that on all my journey I have seen none like unto it. This did almost extend itself to _Aleppo_, where we arrived early, with the help of the Almighty God, in very good health, on the 10th day of _February_. At my arrival, because my comrade _Hans Ulrich Krafft_, with the rest, were not there, then present, presently some _French_ Merchants, which I had cured of several distempers before my departure, came to me, and carried me home with him, desiring me to live with them until my business, which caused me to come back, were done, wherein really they did me a very great kindness. For I having very well torn my cloaths, which never came from my back in half a year’s time, I had there an opportunity to rest myself and to procure myself some new ones. _I thank the Almighty God for his many mercies and favours bestowed on me, and the assistance he graciously afforded me in this voyage, returning him praise, honour and glory, ~&c.~_

CHAP. XI.

_Of the ~Turkish~ Physicians and Apothecaries; of my comrade ~Hans Ulrich Krafft~ of ~Ulm~’s hard Imprisonment. Of the great danger that I was in, in the towns of ~Aleppo~ and ~Tripoli~. Of the murdering of some Merchants, and what else did happen when I was there._

At my return to _Aleppo_, where my business obliged me to stay a while, I came to understand, that during my absence, several _Italians_ and _French-men_ were in their sickness but very slightly served by the _Jews_ their Physicians; wherefore I did not only soon recover my former acquaintance and practice by them, but might have also stept into great business with the _Turks_; for I was presently so well known, that I had much to do to excuse my self with discretion to get off of them, that I might escape their anger and displeasure, which I must have got, if I had served them never so faithfully, which I knew several had before me found by experience. Wherefore at the instance of several good friends, I only cured two great persons, whereof one was a _Georgian_, and at that time _Sangiack_ of _Jerusalem_, which were very well pleased with me, and requited me accordingly. The Physicians generally in these parts, agree before hand for the cure with their patients for a certainty, according to the condition of the patient and his distemper, and have security for their money, but yet it is not paid to them before the patient is cured. They have a great many Physicians, but they are very unskilful, chiefly the _Turks_, which know none but their own language, and so cannot read the authors of Physick that have writ in another language as the _Jews_ can. But seeing that the _Jews_ are very much addicted to covetousness, they endeavour rather to promote their own interest than that of their patients; so that the _Turks_ are but slightly provided with Physicians, and therefore rather die like flies, than take advice of their Physicians, chiefly of the _Jews_, which are not contented with a small reward; to this add also that the _Turks_ never put any confidence in the _Jews_, and esteem their counsel but little; and besides, they believe that God hath already pre-ordained every one his death, so that he that is born to be drown’d cannot be hang’d. And besides all this, the _Jews_ do not stick close to them in time of necessity, but fly presently, and first of all in time of sickness (which certainly happens once in seven years, if not in five or sooner) just like hirelings, as they have sufficiently experienced in the last plague in the year 72, with the loss of several persons of worth and quality; chiefly among the rest a _Turkish_ Pay-Master, by them called _Daftedar_, and another eminent _Turk_, and their own sons, which both of them (although this proferr’d to lay 3000 duckets, and the other 10000 into the hands of a third person) yet were neglected and left by their Physicians and died. It is very much in use among them, that if any body doth find himself not well, another puts his arms cross before him, and so graspeth him about his back, and lifteth him up, and sets him down again, and shaketh him several times, just as they use to do sacks with corn, to make them lie the closer, and to hold the more. As the Physicians are, so are also the Apothecaries, where you find nothing of any great compositions, nor purging electuaries, as _Elect. Diacatholicon_, _Diaphœnicon_, _&c._ although they have the best ingredients thereof, for we have them all sent from them, except they be sent to them from _Marseilles_ or _Venice_, _&c._ If you have occasion for any herbs, roots, or seeds, _&c._ you must go yourself, not without great trouble and loss of time, and find them either in the fields, or else at the Grocers and other shop-keepers. Among the rest of the things they had, I soon knew the Rob Ribes by it’s antient name and pleasent sourish taste, whereof they make a great quantity in this place, and send it farther into other countries, but chiefly to the _Turkish_ Emperor; wherefore in the _Easter_ week they had already gathered several sacks full of the stalks of the true Ribes of the _Arabians_, (which are hairy almost, two foot long, and of the thickness of an inch, of a greenish colour, and underneath, as also _Serapio_ mentioneth, reddish) from the mount _Libanus_, and brought it to the _Cadi_ to make _Rob_ of it for him. I saw them lie in his court-yard, and several of them were given me to taste, and to take away with me. What herbs I found at my return else, because there are but a few of them, therefore I have put them among the rest here above in a peculiar chapter. I saw there several strange birds, and among others, some of a delicate green and blue colour, which were about the bigness of our nut-crackers, by them called _Sucuruck_, and by others _Alsecrach_. I also found their _Alhabari_, which are not unlike our Peacocks, and almost as big, and could not fly much. Of four footed beasts, I saw several, and among them some civet cats, which were brought thither in caravans from remote parts, and the _Indies_. In the _Fundique_ of the Consul of the _Venetians_, I saw a very sharp sighted one like unto a _Lynx_, exactly of the shape of a cat, so that it was not easily distinguished from it, save only in it’s bigness, for it is much higher and slimmer. This is a very wild and fierce beast, so that his keeper himself was afraid of it. It once got loose, and got through the yard below into an Apothecaries shop, wherein he had just then put a great many glasses that were sent him from _Venice_, whereof it broke the greatest part before it could be taken again. When I was there, a young _Rhinoceros_ was carried through the town to _Constantinople_. It came from the most eastern parts, and had killed above 20 men before they could take it. They also lead daily some Lions about the town in small chains, which have small bells before, that every body may take the sooner notice of them; they are so tame, that their keepers sometimes wrestle with them in open places, neither do they easily grow wild, except they should see sheep, then their keepers have enough to do to keep them off and to appease them. Without in the fields in high and bushy places, are sometimes found Camelions, which are somewhat bigger than our green Lizards, but a great deal leaner and higher upon their legs; they walk very slowly and lazily, they live a great while without meat like the Serpents, and are a very ugly creature. If we put it upon a coloured, red, yellow, or black cloth, it hath by degrees changed it’s natural green colour into the same that the cloth was of.

Having ended my business I had, and in the mean time received a letter from my comrades that were at _Tripoli_, I parted from thence according to their desire, and came on the 5th of _May_, _Anno 75_, to them in _Tripoli_. After some days, arrived also with some goods, one of their chiefest Carriers, which they call Mockeri, which swore to me by his head, that is, he affirmed upon his faith and reputation, that the Sub-Bashaw of _Aleppo_, when he was departing from thence, had sent his Bailiffs to my lodging to apprehend me, and to fling me into the publick _Turkish_ gaol, because they were very well assured that when I was on the hills (where they had seen me look for plants) I had observed the situation of the town, and all the country very diligently, that I might, when I should have an opportunity, betray them to their enemies, and shew them the best way to take it. But all this was contrived that they might have an opportunity to take an _Avaria_ on me, as the Merchants call it there in these countries, that is to say, they would accuse me falsly to make me punishable, that they might get a sum of money out of me. And the Carrier also really believed, for as much as he heard of them, that they would not have let me come off for less than 200 _Saraffi_ or ducats, one whereof maketh two of their gilders. _Thanks be to our Lord God, who hath delivered me from their unjust accusations and contrivances, and brought me safe to this place._ At my arrival at _Tripoli_, when I expected to live securely and quietly, and thought that I was passed all danger, I fell, notwithstanding all this into another; for when my comrades, and with them also _Hans Ulrich Krafft_ (yet without any transgression) were flung into the _Turkish_ gaol, by the contrivances of some _Turks_, the same rogues had also a mind to contrive something against me, to bring me in also. But the _French_ Vice-Consul, _Andrew Bianchi_, who was my very good patron, took my part, insomuch that he did recover my liberty by the _Turks_, in spite of my accusers, and not only got me licence to walk freely without molestation in and about the city where-ever I pleased, but did also procure me a free and safe access to my comrades, to see them in prison as often as I pleased. Into the prison wherein they were kept, I must always go through three small and low doors, which the keepers did always very freely and without any grumbling open unto me, to go in or out, and sometimes I have staid there all night with them. I was always in very great hopes that God Almighty would have ordered it so, that their adversaries might have agreed with them, so that I and my dear friend, whom I loved as my own brother, _Hans Ulrich Krafft_, might have been returned home again with joy. But it pleased God to order it otherways, for the differences grew the longer the more difficult, and were so long produced, that these young gentlemen, particularly _Hans Ulrich_, was kept there in this hard imprisonment very near three years. To tell all that he suffered and indured there, would be too long here; only this I cannot omit to tell you, that he did endure and conquer all these troubles and adversities (as I did see myself) with such a courage, patience and good conduct, that notwithstanding all these, although he was almost left quite comfortless, he was rather fit to comfort others than to be comforted. When I went thus in and out to them, I observed very well that the _Turks_ have very great compassion on poor distressed prisoners, and are very free to give them alms; and a man used to come in daily with bread or boiled meat, as rice, and other sorts of boiled corn, chiefly on feast days after the afternoons lecture was over, and when he distributed them, he did also always as he went by, fling in for each of them a little loaf (very like unto them they bake in lent in our country) into their apartment before them upon the ground, wherewith they must make shift, except they could live on their own means, or get something by their hand labour, whereof there was a good many that did, to maintain themselves. These alms, the _Turks_ give rather freely, without being ask’d for it, for they believe that God is better pleased with that which they give freely, than that which is begged of them. Wherefore they have very few or no beggars in their towns, which beg alms as they do in our country. During my stay at _Tripoli_, I did at the request of the Consul, live in his Fundique, who entertained me very honourably, that I might give attendance; and if any of the Merchants or Seamen should happen to be sick, I might use my best endeavour to cure them. So I did in the space of three months cure only in our Fundique, above forty men of all sorts of distempers, _viz._ malignant fevers, violent gripings of the guts, _&c._ which generally befell them that were lately arrived, and were not yet acquainted with the air and diet of the country. There happened in these days, a miserable cruel case, that some (among whom were five _Italians_ and one _Frenchman_) did arrive at _Tripoli_, which made themselves soon ready to go from thence farther to _Aleppo_, with their merchandizes to sell there. Upon the road they left their caravan too far behind them, and met with some horsemen which spoke to them, and desired them that they would halt at the command of their master the Sub-Bashaw, and dismount, and go into the next camp (which I found very desolate and ruined when I went by formerly) to stay there until he came to them, which would not be long, for he had something to say to them; the Merchants obeyed them readily, fearing that if they should not, they would be punished severely by the Sub-Bashaw for their disobedience. After they were gone into the camp, the murderers immediately fell upon them, shooting and striking at them, until they killed them all at last, then they buried them in the ground, mounted their horses and rode away. After these murderers thought they were very secure, one of these rogues, which were said to be _Arabians_, met one of the Mockeri, or Carriers, of the same caravan, he knew the horse immediately, and perceiving it to be bloody, his heart gave him that it was not right, wherefore he made haste up to him, and thrust his bended bayonet into his side, and took him prisoner, and carried him to _Aleppo_, where he was, as I did hear afterwards, having confessed the fact when he was upon the torture, executed for it. They did also seek for the rest, but did apprehend none of them in the time of my staying. The Sultan else taketh great care to keep the roads safe and free from highwaymen, that trading may go on without hindrance. Yet sometimes there are some of the great ones, and men of note, that put others upon it for gain’s sake, so that one must be very careful in these countries. It is not long ago when we had news, that not far off the Christians had taken some ships from the _Turks_ and carried them off, and also formerly in the beginning of _July_ of the last year, they lost some more, and as, I am informed, among them were four great ones, three fly-boats, and two other that were taken by six gallies of the Christians, which made the _Turks_ mightily discontented; wherefore the Emperor sends out many gallies into several places, chiefly to _Rhodes_, to cross the seas up and down to keep them clear from pirates, and to hinder them from making incursions or descents upon him. These come sometimes into this port, but our Merchants and the Masters of our ships do not care for their arrival, for they are forced to present them with cloths, woollen cloaths, money, _&c._ if they will remain in favour with them.

CHAP. XII.

_Of the large and high mount of ~Libanus~, it’s inhabitants and strange plants that are found there._

When I staid with the Consul at _Tripoli_, and had not a few of his in cure in his Fundique, some others of other nations did sometimes between whiles desire my assistance and advice, and among the rest an eminent Patriarch of the _Maronites_, which reckon themselves to be Christians, and are called so from the heretick _Maro_ to this day. This did live in the mount of _Libanus_, and was carried down, although he had a whole day’s journey to _Tripoli_, and was afflicted with that painful distemper the gout very severely, to be cured by me. After some days, when he was pretty well recovered again, so that he intended to return home; he spoke to some of us in our Fundique, that we would be pleased to conduct him up the hill home again; which was agreed unto very readily, considering that this mountain is the most famous in all the country of _Syria_, whereof the holy Scripture maketh several times mention, speaking of it’s great heighth and famous rivers (of which _Jordan_ is one), of it’s sweet smelling plants, and pleasantly tasted fruits; and also because there is a great many strange plants to be found. So we rode along with the Patriarch (who had no little reason to be afraid of the _Turks_ clandestine assault) with all possible diligence, and came immediately from the town upon the heights of the promontories of the mount _Libanus_, which were very fruitful at the top, and had many pleasant plain fields, which extended themselves for three leagues to the high mount, so that this was a very pleasant road, where we saw sometimes on one side delicate vineyards, then on the other, fruitful fields sowed with barley, white _Indian_ millet, _&c._ After this we came to pleasant woods, where sweet singing birds let themselves be heard, and recreated us; sometimes we saw some hares and some deer, so that we could not but fancy that we went through thick and dark woods. When we came out of them, and were very near unto the mountain, there lay some small villages before it, and we went to one of them, and very near unto it, in a green shady place, we sat down, and refreshed our selves with some victuals, which we had taken along with us before we began to go up the mountain.

The Patriarch was very merry with us, and presented us with some _Venice_ bottles of his wine, whereof we drank a good deal, for it was so pleasant that I must confess that I never in all my life drank any like it. Soon after we broke up again, with an intention to reach his monastery that night, called _Our Lady_’s, which lieth on the middle of the mountain as we travelled towards the top thereof; in the beginning we came into a narrow and rough valley, which had on both sides very steep walls, wherewith it was inclosed of a vast height, chiefly at our left hand, and yet towards the top, there were several caves within them, wherein Christians live, whereof we saw a great many that appeared so near to the edges as they went about, that we that travelled underneath, had much to do to keep us from being giddy. In that place (where from the height one may plainly see the whole neighbourhood to the very seas, as if it was a Specula, such as the ancients used to have) is always a strong watch kept by the inhabitants of these mountains (because they are not under the jurisdiction of the _Turks_, as others are, nor in any league with them) to hinder the _Turks_ from making incursions upon them. When we went farther, and got over some little hills, we came out of this narrow place into wide meadows, pastures, corn fields, and to some fruitful vineyards; then again into narrow and deep rocky roads where we had enough to do to climb over; and afterwards again into pleasant groves, by delightful rivulets that arose from springs that made so sweet a noise, that those mountains are therefore admired and commended, chiefly by King _Solomon_ in the 4th chapter of his Song, verse 15. in comparison, where he mentioneth the streams from _Lebanon_, which make _Damascus_ one of the most pleasant and delicious places in the world.

On this mount grow here and there, besides ordinary trees and bushes, thick shrubby vines, _Zizipha alba_ & _ratila_, Poplars, two kinds of Dwarf-cedars with pointed and obtuse leaves, _Eupatorium Mesuæ_, _Absinthium Ponticum_, _Elæagni Math._ by the inhabitants called _Seisesun_; and wild horn beams, a peculiar sort of willows, _Phyllireas_, _Styrax_-trees, the fragrant Gum whereof is to be found in apothecaries shops; but chiefly, and in the greatest number were the Maple-trees, which are large, big, high, and expand themselves very much with their branches. After we had rested ourselves, and were a little refreshed underneath these, our labour began again, to climb up these high and steep steps. When we were thus a climbing, some country people, that we saw up so high before, came out of their caves down to us, with mugs full of wine, which they presented first to their master the Patriarch that was on horseback, receiving him with a great deal of reverence (bowing themselves down to his feet) and loving kindness, and afterwards they did detain us also, and presented each of us with a mug of wine to bid us welcome, which I and the rest received very willingly, but having pretty well heated myself with going, I at that time loved spring water with bread dipt in it very well, I only tasted a little of it. After we were got up these stairs, a great many more came running to present their master with chickens, pullets and other poultry, which his man took and carried up with them. Then the ways were pretty good and much straighter, so that we went on apace, until at length we came to the monastery, which we could not see before we came just upon it. Just before it without is a most incomparable copious spring, that floweth with delicate water, which is worthy to be often visited.

This monastry, which is not extraordinary built, lieth towards the left, almost in the middle of the mountain, under a great rock, which doth so cover and preserve it, that it cannot easily receive any harm from above. At our arrival the Monks came immediately, whereof I saw no more than ten, and received us very kindly, and shew’d us presently our lodging, which because they had no chambers to spare, was an arch’d chapel, that we might know whither to repair: Yet we kept more upon the top of the house, which was like others, cover’d with plaister, which was the delicatest and pleasantest place of all the buildings, where we could see the situation of the snowy hill towards the east above the Cedars, which was a very pleasant sight, and also below us several other hills, whereon they feed their cattle, together with the deep and dark valley: and, the monastry being but small, so that they had not much room in it, we also supp’d there in the open air with the Patriarch and some of his Fraternity, on a long table. They treated us very well, and gave us some white wine to drink, which was better than that we drunk on the hill, in _Venice_ glasses, the like whereof is not to be found, neither in _Candia_ nor _Cyprus_. But they feed, according to their order, only upon plain food as beans, and _French_ beans, and the like leguminous fruit, _&c._ At night when they conducted us to our lodging to go to rest, they shew’d us instead of beds some straw mats and tapestry, spread upon the ground in their church on which we were to lie, and so we did and rested that night. In the morning they came very early before break of day into the church, when we were still very sleepy, to do their office, and began immediately to ring two bells, which made underneath the rock such a resounding noise, that it stupify’d us, and made us (chiefly because some of us had heard none in two years time, and were full of sleep and but half awake) so dull, that we did not for a good while know where we were, until we came a little to ourselves again. Afterwards I heard them with attention for a good while, and did look into their books which were written with _Arabian_ letters; but what religion they were of, I shall tell you hereafter, when I shall make mention of other Christians.

At break of day we made ourselves ready to go farther up the hill, to the height thereof where the Cedars stand, to see them, so that we might come to the monastery again. Along with us went two Monks to shew us the way; they conducted us back again to the rich springs of water, to the stairs, which were very rough, and so steep that we were often forced to hold ourselves by the bushes, which we could reach at both sides; but chiefly when we turned on a sudden, of which turnings they had very many. So we got up higher and higher, with a great deal of labour, until we came to a little chapel standing just at the top of the stairs on the hill. Near to this chapel is a small village, which we went through, and saw spacious fields well cultivated, so that the inhabitants of these mountains, could have no want of corn, wine, flesh or oyl, _&c._ although their neighbours should not supply them for years with any thing; and besides, their lands are so well secured on the height, and so lock’d up, as if they were surrounded with high walls and deep ditches; and moreover they are a very stout and warlike people, very well provided with bows and guns, _&c._ so that their neighbours cannot easily hurt nor do any mischief to them; and they are also soon alarm’d, which we found, when these two Monks did immediately raise twelve men well arm’d, in the farthermost village towards the snowy hill, to conduct us safe up to the Cedars of the highest mount, that their neighbours the _Trusci_ might not hurt us. But as I understood afterwards the _Trusci_ are in confederacy with the inhabitants of mount _Libanus_, so that they need not to fear any harm from them. But they rather did it to frighten us, to get a good recompence from us that they might rejoice, and treat us the better, as Christians, on our return. So these twelve went before us and conducted us up to another, but very barren and rough plain, where we found ourselves to be upon the highest point of the mountain, and saw nothing higher but only a small hill before us, all cover’d over with snow, at the bottom whereof the high Cedar-trees were standing, some whereof King _Solomon_ ordered to be cut down to be employ’d for the use of the building of the temple of _Jerusalem_. And although this hill hath in former ages been quite cover’d over with Cedars, yet they are since so decreased, that I could tell no more but twenty four, that stood round about in a circle, and two others, the branches whereof are quite decay’d with age. I also went about in this place to look out for some young ones, but could find none at all. These trees are green all the year long, have strong stems that are several fathoms about, and are as high as our Fir-trees. They have very large twigs that bend the tree, and make it lean that way, which somewhat spoileth their straightness. Branches grow up straight, as also do the cones thereof, which are large and round, and extend themselves a great length, in so delicate and pleasant order and evenness, as if they were trimm’d, and made even with a great deal of diligence, so that at a distance, you may see the tops of them very even to one another. So that one may immediately see at a great distance, a great difference between these and other Fir-trees. They are else very like unto the Larch-trees chiefly in their leaves, which are small, and all close together, but stand farther asunder upon small brown shoots, which in their length and bigness are like unto them of the _Muscus terrestris_.

After we had rested awhile underneath the Cedars, and began to be coldish in this windy, snowy, and cold place, we began to return to the monastry again. By the way I saw about the river three sorts of _Tragacantha_, one whereof I took according to it’s shape to be that of the learned _Carolus Clusius_, which is very like unto the true _Tragacantha_. The second is somewhat lower than the first, else it is very like unto it, only it beareth yellow flowers, each whereof groweth by itself in round yellowish bags, and several of them stand one above the other on long stalks. The third is almost of the same height, and hath more brown colour’d strong stalks, with white woolly heads of _Poterius_, whereon you see purple coloured flowers. I found also by them another plant, which to be brief, considering it’s brown colour’d flexible twigs, and longish fat leaves, is very like unto the _Chamælea_, of a very sharp taste, I think to be the first kind of _Sanamunda_ of _Carolus Clusius_. Besides these I saw hereabouts two thorny shrubs, one whereof was, with it’s red colour’d grapes (setting the leaves aside as far as I remember) very like unto our _Oxyacantha_. The other, which was full of thorns, and had small red purple colour’d flowers, was like unto the first kind of _Scorpius_ of _Carolus Clusius_. Among the bushes I saw the _Scorzonera_ with yellow flowers, and also a pretty sort of Tulips with yellow stripes, and not far from it the true _Ribes_ of the _Arabians_, which I found in autumn at an ill time, without flowers or seeds, only with two leaves, as if it was just sprung up. The leaves thereof are rough and round, as big very near as those of _Petasites_, call’d Butterburn in our language, which grow upon short yet thick stalks, which are also full of a pleasant sowrish juice, as well as their stalks, whereof chiefly the true _Rob Ribes_ is prepared, as I have seen it myself, and _Serapio_ testifieth. This loveth moist grounds, hath a strong brown colour’d root, which is pretty long, wrinkly, bended, and of a very unpleasant taste. On the height of the mount I saw more plants, some whereof I had not time to mind, and others that are not yet known, wherefore I omit, for shortness sake, to say more of them.

The mountain is very high, so that it may be seen in _Cyprus_ about 200 _Italian_ miles off; wherefore the day breaketh later at _Tripoli_, and, not until the morning sun appeareth before it: And moreover you find there snow all summer long, which they bring down from the mountains, into the Batzars or Exchanges to sell, to cool their drink with it, chiefly in the dog-days, and fling it in by handfuls. Yet when we were at the top, we could not see far about, being hindered by some hills.

After we were come down from the mountains into the little village again, our conductors brought us into a pleasant garden where their wives came to us, who brought to us several yet strange sorts of milk-meats to eat, and very good wine to drink; so we sat down in the grass according to their fashion, to eat and drink, and to make merry, and spoke to them in the common _Arabian_ country language, and what we could not speak out, we made them understand by signs. After we had dined, we return’d them many thanks, for all their kindnesses and good cheer, and so we went away. By the way we saw more plants, _viz._ the _Alyssum_ of _Dioscorides_; a delicate kind of _Cynoglossum_. And also near the stairs some wild Fir-trees, _Polium Montanum_, _Marrubium Creticum Lobelii_, as I judged according to it’s shape. A delicate yellow _Jacea_ with scaly heads, and prickles like unto the _Spina Solstitialis_, which is low, yet it hath a long and strong root, cover’d with a gray and hairy rind, like unto the _Victorialis_, the leaves are jagg’d or laciniated, of an ashen colour and hairy, as also the two before-mention’d; and another kind of _Jacea_, with purple colour’d flowers, which is very like unto the yellow one of _Lobelius_ (which I have also found in _Provence_ in _France_ near _Aix_) saving only the prickles that are about the heads. Just before we came quite down, I found two kinds of _Linaria_, one whereof, that is of a pretty bitter taste, puts forth long and slender stalks from the root, closely surrounded with a great number of _Linaria_ leaves, and hath at top one, two, or three long scaly heads, from whence issue small purple colour’d flowers; the other groweth also in leaves and stalks almost like unto the first, only they are smaller and tenderer, and hath quite to the top abundance of light and small purple colour’d flowers round about it as the blue one of our gardens. At length after a long travelling and climbing, we came just when the night broke in, down to the monastry again; after supper we went strait to rest, that we might be up early again to go for _Tripoli_. After break of the day when we had taken our leave of the Patriarch and his brethren, and made ourselves ready for our journey, we came strait away. By the way we saw several of _Arbores Judæ_, with their red colour’d husks; and also in the rock a fine _Gnaphalium_, with ash-colour’d roundish mouse-ear leaves, and snow white double flowers. As we went on, and were almost come to the house that stood upon the height, whereof we made mention before, these inhabitants came down again, got before us, stopt us, and would not let us pass until we had drank with them. Then we went on again, and I found in the deep and dark valley the right _Medium Dioscoridis_, and _Mindium Rhasis_, which I did spie immediately among the bushes, by it’s height and spacious purple colour’d flower. This plant is very like unto the _Viola Mariana_, of the learned _Rempert Dodonus_, very stately, so that no great difference can be found but only in the leaves, which in this are more carved, like unto those of _Plantain_, and in the flowers which are more open, and spread themselves with their long and narrow leaves, whereof each hath eight, into a round circle; the seeds I saw not because they were not yet ripe, yet I found a greater austerity in the root than in the seed vessels. Not far off, I also saw in the valley a strange plant, which was of the height of a cubit, and had whitish and wolly leaves, like unto our _Mullein_, only they are less, and grow quite to the stalk, as those of _Tabaco_, or of _Hyosciamus Peruvianus_ of _Rempert Dodon._, at the top thereof grow fine purple colour’d and white double flowers which stand close together, as those of the yellow _Amaranth_, or in the little _Auricula Muris_ of _Fuchsius_, so that according to all this, having also fragrant roots, and like unto those of black Hellebore, which broke, because I pull’d it up in haste, as I judged by that part thereof which still was left to them, I clearly take it to be the true _Baccharis_ of _Dioscor._ In the valley farther down towards the water, grew also the _Oleander_, and the _Apocynum Repens_, which climbeth upon the trees that stand nigh it, and covereth them so that it hangeth down again at the sides, like the _Ephedra_ of _Pliny_. After we came out before the mountain, there appeareth the _Italian Spondylium_, _Visnagia_, _&c._ there we went into the next village, and look’d after the victuals we had left, to refresh ourselves. When we came from thence I found the black _Chamælion_ with it’s handsome blue colour’d tops; _Origanum_, _Onites_, _Lycium_ call’d also _Zaroa_ by the inhabitants; the second _Acacia_ with trefoil leaves, and when we came near to _Tripoli_, to the old and high rivulet, between the mountains, I found the second _Tragoriganum_ of _Carol. Clusius_, _Ceterach_ and low St _John_’s _Wort_, a fine _Chamædrys_, &c. but above all, a thorn-bush, about the hight of a cubit, very thick of twigs and stalks, so that some of them lie on the ground; the stalks, whereof many grow out of a root of a drying quality, and somewhat bitter, are surrounded with a tender gray rind, underneath which is another reddish one to be found. It’s long tender leaves that grow one against the other, which are of the colour of ashes underneath, and green above, are very like unto the leaves of our _Sanguisorba_; between them at the top or the crown sprout out many thorns, the biggest whereof divide themselves at the top into other less ones in very good order, so that some point down, and some upwards, and others towards the sides, and some thereof sprout out farther before the rest, which sprout out early in the spring, and bear small greenish colour’d starry flowers; from underneath them grow out small soft berries of a whitish colour, and some reddish, which are so close together, and stand in their ranks, at the top whereof the flower is still plainly to be seen, like unto our currans. The seeds thereof I have raised in the famous garden of the generous and eminent _Hans Heinrich Herwarts_, Alderman of this place, very easily, and they grew up until they were ready to blow; but as other outlandish plants do seldom endure our climate, so did this also die the next winter; it is call’d by the inhabitants _Bellen_, but I am of opinion according to it’s shape, for of it’s virtue and use I can say nothing, because I never try’d it, that it is the _Hippophië_ of _Dioscor._ so long until others give me a better instruction. Not far from hence I found on the height, near to the town in a rough place, another fine plant, not unlike unto our _Gingidium_, only that it hath less fenil leaves and beareth a roundish seed, with many smooth wings hanging round about it, which close themselves almost into a knot together, with it’s tender leaves, which sprout out underneath the crown, like unto the black coriander; which induced me to inquire after it more narrowly what to call it, and being I found that it had a small white root, tender leaves, and a bitterer taste than our wild parsnip, and also in the middle of the crown a blewish knob, I cannot judge it but to be the true _Gingidium_ of _Dioscor._ From thence we soon went down the stairs again, and came by some _Turkish_ burying places, and some wild figg-trees, by them call’d _Mumeitz_, whereof a great many are growing in these grounds, into the town of _Tripoli_.

Soon after an honest and skilful _Botanist_ to whom I came to enquire after plants, told me that a great many more were to be found thereabouts. Wherefore I went out again to look for them, and to get them also. So I found first upon the height near the vineyards a _Cassia Monspeliensium_, which he call’d _Mackmudi_ and _Macmisi_, and the berries thereof _Habel Mickeness_. But whether this is to be taken for the _Avacsium Rhasis_, or no, I cannot certainly affirm. This is so common in these places that they make brooms of it’s twigs. Moreover I found in the vineyards another stately, fine and strange plant, which was about two cubits high, and had whitish, woolly, and long, sharp pointed leaves, which are set round with small prickles about the edges, and had on each side towards the stalk little ears, as our sorrel and spinage have; it is of a bitter taste, and at top thereof on long stalks grow many smooth hands which in their bigness and flowers are very like unto the yellow _Jacea_.

But that I may not be too tedious, it being not my intention to treat here of every one at length, I will mention but one more before I conclude, which I found just at the spouts where in rainy weather the water runs down from the mount _Libanus_; which is the true white _Beheen_ of the _Arabians_, and is still to this day call’d _Behmen-ahied_, as the red is call’d _Behmen-ackmar_, which also doth not stand far off, as my friend, that experienced Botanist, hath informed me. But because I was daily ready to go on ship board, to come home again, I had not time to obtain it; this was at that time almost decay’d, yet I found still some green leaves, about it, so that by all appearance it doth endure the winter, and so shoots out in new by degrees, which grow up yearly again instead of the old ones, these put forth long, great and pointed leaves, as big, sharp and as thick as a leaf of a pear-tree; they have partly underneath on the stalks four much less, which stand two and two against one another; and one also finds out a few of them on round stalks, many whereof grow out of the same root, about the height of a cubit, where the uppermost stick quite close to it, as you may see on the _Smyrnum Creticum_; on the top it puts forth oblong scaly yellow buttons, each of them on their peculiar stalk from whence issue flowers of the same colour; it hath a very long root, which at the top shoots out great branches, that grow so thick, that in time they may be separated and transplanted; but else they have but very few fibres, so that they rather are smooth, and also almost as tough and pliable as liquorish root, to which it is very like in it’s bigness and colour, only it is somewhat whiter, and not so strait. But why _Avicenna_ maketh mention also of it’s wrinckles, I am of opinion that he rather speaketh of the greater sort, which is more wrinkly and rougher, and also for above a span long, seem to be shrunk of age and turn’d woody, or decay’d and dry’d up, although within they are still juicy, limber, and have kept their natural colour. I was also inform’d of others, _viz._ of the _Costus Syriacus_, which they still know by the name of _Chast_, and is found about _Antiochia_: And not far off from thence is also found the _Nux vomica_ as some esteem them, by the inhabitants call’d _Cutschula_; which together with a great many other famous ones I might have obtained, if I could have had a true, faithful and experienced guide; but for want of such a one, and also because I could stay no longer, I was forced to leave them behind, to be hereafter found out by such that shall undertake the like journeys.

CHAP. XIII.

_Cunning and deceitful stratagems of the ~Grand Turk~ against the inhabitants of mount ~Libanus~, the ~Trusci~, and ~Maronites~: And how he made war with them, and what damage they sustained by it._