Chapter X: Front Matter (10)

Having here before made mention of the _Maronites_ and _Trusci_ their neighbours and allies, I cannot but must also go farther, and briefly relate, how the _Turk_ did make war against them, (as to whom they are not yet quite subjected) during the time of my staying in these countries. But from whence this war did first arise, and had it’s beginning, I was thus inform’d, that it broke out about one of their governours, which lived then for a little time at _Damascus_. For when the Grand Signior observed that these people did daily grow in number and strength, he consider’d that if he should let them go on so, and neglect to curb them in time, they might probably after a while grow too potent for him; wherefore he thought it requisite to study and make it his business to find out ways and means to subdue them, and to reduce them under his power. In order thereunto, he apprehended the governour that lived then in _Damascus_, and put him into prison, and at length took away his life unjustly, under pretence as if he had endeavour’d to raise a rebellion; not doubting but that when he had removed their head, he might the easier subdue and reduce the people. But when the _Trusci_ and _Maronites_ understood this cruel and abominable fact, not without grief and trouble, they were not only not at all discouraged from resisting so great and formidable an enemy, but rather took new courage that was promoted by the great anger this detestable fact put them into, so that they united themselves the firmer, and did unanimously resolve to oppose him with all their might and power, and to stand by their antient liberty; and accordingly they began immediately to arm themselves, to fortify their villages, and chiefly their passes, and to provide themselves with guns, bows, and arrows, and all other things necessary for their defence, so that in case of necessity they might be ready to resist their enemies, being such a kind that kept neither faith nor promise, which they had often experienced to their great grief and losses. So that in all probability it was like to be a war, which also broke out with great violence within a little time after. But because I went for _Bagdat_ at the same time, where in former years the potent Caliphi did reside, I did hear no more of it in all my journey until at my return, when my comrade _Hans Ulrich Krafft_ of _Ulm_, then prisoner in _Tripoli_, did relate it to me, so as it was reported to him by credible hands; who told me that the _Trusci_ are very numerous, that they were divided into several regiments, of several colours, and that those that live in the middle of the high mountains were the most numerous of them all, that they live in a country that is very well secured and surrounded, so that they need not, nor will not be subject either to the _Turks_ or any other potentate. They are warlike people, for the generality good gunners, that make their own guns and any other sorts of arms, _&c._ they have plenty of corn, oil, wine, good meat and good fruit, so that they need not any assistance of strangers. They chiefly deal in silk, whereof they wind (from silkworms) about one hundred rotulas in a year (which is about 450 C. weight) to send from thence into other countries. These have their white colours, and their confederates that live on the outward hill towards the sea, at _Baruti_ near _Tripoli_, have red ones, and have also their colonel whom they call _Ermin Mackfur_, who also those that belong unto the white colours acknowledge to be theirs, as well as their own, who was lately murder’d. This because he could not entrench himself as well as the other _Trusci_ on the hill, agreed with the Great Sultan, and made peace upon this account, that if he would let him live peaceably and quietly, he would help him to protect the country, and pay unto him yearly the accustom’d tribute, but if the Grand Signior would not be pleased with this proffer, he would join and assist them. The Emperor accepted of this, and did not only make this _Ermin Mackfur_ Lord of all _Baruti_ and _Scide_, call’d _Sidon_, but did also procure him a great and plentiful yearly revenue out of these countries; thinking thus to oblige him, to help him with his _Trusci_ to subdue the others, not doubting but that he might easily overcome these, when once the other on the mountains were kill’d. But they would not get up the hill, but did profer to the _Turks_, that if their men and the _Moors_ should go up, they would be ready in the valley about _Baruti_, to cut off all that should fall into their hands. This answer they gave to the Sultan, only for fashion’s sake, for no _Truscus_ killeth the other. When the Sultan saw that they would not bite one another, and that he was not like to obtain any great matter from the Colonel, he did notwithstanding send up the Bashaw of _Damascus_ with six other Bashaws and seventeen Sangiacks, about 200,000 strong, both foot and horse well arm’d, to subdue the before mention’d _Trusci_ which were about 60,000 strong, to burn, demolish and destroy their towns, villages, houses and plantations. After they were come up to the ascent two days journey from _Damascus_, they found the roads so steep that no body could pass them on horseback, for there was nothing to be seen but rough and sharp pointed rocks. So they agreed to dismount, and to go up to them on foot, and so they took presently six or seven villages, whereof there is said to be twenty seven in all, but they found nothing in them but some women and children and very few men (the rest were got upon the hills where they had entrench’d themselves) which were all cut in pieces, and the villages burnt.

The _Turks_ and _Moors_ thought themselves obliged, according to their Emperors command to go on farther, so they endeavour’d and got up higher, but could not do any more harm to the _Trusci_, being hinder’d by the bad ways; but on the contrary the _Trusci_ met them sometimes and poured their shot upon them from all sides, before they were aware of it, so that they were but in an ill condition. Then when the _Turks_ would pursue these men, they were too quick for them, as being born and bred in these mountains; so they did only laugh at them, and bid them kiss their breeches; so the _Turks_, partly for want of provision, partly being tired by the steep roads, were sometimes forced, not without great damage and loss of their men, to retire again to take better measures. Sometimes also the _Trusci_ would stand between the rocks cover’d and when they found any of their enemies appear, chiefly those that endeavour’d to climb up the rocks, they would all of a sudden shoot among them as among a flock of pigeons, so that many of them did precipitate themselves and broke their necks. They would also sometimes decoy the _Turks_ into a good road and after eight or ten thousand of them were passed, they would with six thousand _Trusci_ fall in the rear of them, to drive them up higher, where others soon did appear that came down upon them; so they surrounded them sometimes and received them so warmly, that but very few of them came back again to tell what was become of the rest. After this war had continued for about two months, the Bashaw at last was forced to make a shameful retreat with the remainder of his forces, and that so much the sooner because the winter began to approach, so that it was impossible to endure the frost and snow, which occasion’d many to die, and the chiefest of them came home sick.

The _Trusci_ pretend to be Christians, and the posterity of those that some years ago by might and strength recover’d the Holy Land; so that still to this day they have a great affection for Christians, which those that travel among them to buy silks can testify, whom they treat and entertain very civilly with good meat and good wine, yet refuse to take any money for it; and say, that what God hath given them they are bound to distribute among us Christians. But they hate _Mahometans_ and Jews, and keep very good intelligence with the Christians of this country. Yet they themselves are neither Christians, _Turks_, _Moors_ nor Jews; for they do not go to mass, nor any other publick worship of God; they cry out sometimes to heaven that God would be pleased to protect them. They also believe according to the opinion of _Pythagoras_, that the souls of the deceased according to their merits, transmigrate from one body into another; that the soul of a pious man goeth into a new born child, and that of an ill man into the body of a dog or other wild beast; chiefly if he hath lived very ill. As they believe so they live also. Among them they marry to their nearest relations, the brother to his sister, the son to his mother, the father to the daughter, and they lie all together a night, but they will not marry into a strange family. The father or the mother says, seeing that God hath given me this child as a seed unto me, why should I throw it away upon a stranger; or else, I have a garden, and God giveth me flowers in it, is it not reasonable that I should enjoy them rather than a stranger? _&c._ they make use of a great many of these and the like expressions. They also keep a yearly feast with their wives which then they change one with the other as they please. Else they are not given to stealing, killing or any such like crimes, because they want for nothing, but if any be taken that hath transgressed he is executed immediately. So they live in peace together, and care not for any other Monarch.

_End of the second Part._

Dr _Leonhart Rauwolff_’s

TRAVELS

INTO THE

Eastern Countries.

Wherein is chiefly treated of the Land of Promise, the city of _Jerusalem_, and also of several opinions, beliefs and Errors of the _Turks_ and _Christians_.

PART. III.

CHAP. I.

_A short description of his departure from ~Tripoli~, a town of ~Phœnicia~ in ~Syria~, and how he went from thence to ~Joppa~._

After my return to _Tripoli_, when I found myself near to the confines of _Canaan_, the land of promise, promised and given to the _Israelites_ by the Lord of _Zebaoth_, and considered, that our long before promised _Messias_, Lord and Saviour of the _Gentiles_ was there, according to the prophecies of the prophets born in _Bethlehem_ of the virgin _Mary_, and by the _Jews_ suffered the shameful death of crucifixion at _Jerusalem_ on the mount of _Calvaria_, and afterwards was laid in the new tomb of _Joseph_ of _Arimathea_, that was cut out of a rock, _&c._ I found in me a great desire to see these and other the like holy places: Not that I thought still to find there _Christ_ our Lord, as the two young men _Peter_ and _John_ and the three _Maries_ did, but to exercise my outward senses in the contemplation thereof, that I might the more fervently consider with my inward ones his bitter passion, death, resurrection and ascension, and to appropriate to myself, and to apprehend the better, and to make my own, by faith and firm confidence, _Christ_ our Lord himself together with his heavenly gifts and treasures, as he has manifested himself in the holy scriptures; wherefore I was fully resolved to look out for fellow travellers to accompany me in this journey before I returned home again. I staid not long in quest of company, but quickly met four Pilgrims that came out of the Low Countries that had the same intention; there also came to us a _Grecian_ Monk of the order of the _Carmelites_ whom I knew before when he lived with his master, that I cured of a very dangerous distemper, and desired to go in company with us. So we agreed together, and bespoke a small _Turkish_ vessel with eight oars, by them called _Caramusala_ whereof there were many in the harbour, that wait constantly for travellers, goods and provision, to be carried into the neighbouring towns and provinces, _viz._ to _Antiochia_, _Caramania_, anciently called _Cilicia_, _Cyprus_, _Baruthi_, _Caramania_, or quite into _Egypt_. We bought some biskets, cibets, eggs, cheese, pompions, which the _Arabians_ call _Batticas_, _Margeropfel_, oranges, good wine, _&c._ which we had occasion of for our journey, of which as much as would last us eight days; for the ship-masters do not willingly land, chiefly with Pilgrims, because of the great customs the roguish _Turks_ demand unjustly from us Christians every where, until we arrive at our designed stations.

After we had thus fitted ourselves, and got a good wind, we went aboard the ship on the seventh of _September_, in the year 1575, and put off, and came before night to the point _Capugio_, to the village _Aniffe_, anciently called _Neuphrus_, which was in former ages very well fortified, as still appeareth by some remainders to this day. This village is pretty big, but every where open, that one might easily take it with a handful of men; it is situated on the foot of mount _Libanus_, which is very high there, and reacheth unto the sea. It is chiefly inhabited by _Maronites_, as are also many more villages of this mountain, chiefly those that lie in vallies towards _Aleppo_, where I have inned many times when I went through it, and was very kindly received; they keep very good wine by them, which the _Turks_ know very well, and come there very often for it, altho they are forbidden (by the laws of their Mahometan Koran) to satisfy their desire. These _Maronites_ are Christians, and speak the _Arabian_ language, and have their Patriarchs, which are first chosen by the people, and then confirmed by the Pope. After we had went on from thence very well all night long, all along the steep mountainous shore, and had made the utmost point of the promontory of _Baruthi_, we saw in the morning a far off, that famous town lying behind it, where formerly great commerce has been drove, well fortified with strong towers towards the sea, and surrounded with fruitful orchards and vineyards. In this, and also in more adjacent towns and villages, live a very warlike people, called _Trusci_, very nimble and expert in shooting with guns and bows, and call themselves the posterity of the ancient _Frenchmen_, which took and possessed many years agone, under _Godfrid_ and _Baldwin_, _Jerusalem_, and all the Land of Promise. They are still a free people to this day, and not subject unto the Great Sultan as others are; wherefore he hath many times attempted to bring them under his yoak. And in order thereunto he did send in the year 1574 last past, a great army consisting of two hundred thousand horse and foot to subdue them; but what harm he did them I have already mentioned in the preceding part of this Journal. They are very willing to accommodate and serve outlandish Christians, as _Germans_, _Frenchmen_ and _Italians_, whereof they make no difference, and to take them up into their habitations, and to shew them all civility and kindness; nay, and what is more, to assist them according to their utmost power against the common enemy of Christendom, as we have formerly found indeed before _Cyprus_ was taken by the _Turks_; for after they were informed that some _Italian_ gallies were to arrive to make an incursion into the adjacent towns and places, chiefly to plunder _Tripoli_, they raised seven thousand men very well armed to help them, and to come to their assistance, some of which did then appear and shew themselves on the frontiers; but finding that their gallies did not arrive, they also returned home again, and left their design unaccomplished. The _Trusci_ have a head called _Ermin Mackfur_, that is, a judicious man, and a very experienced soldier, whom they acknowledge to be their supreme governor, and are obedient to him; he liveth in a castle on the bottom of the mountain not far from the town we went by; he taketh great pains, chiefly now after the _Turkish_ war, and maketh great provision to keep the country in peace and security. He also keepeth good correspondence with the neighbouring people, chiefly the _Maronites_, that have lived long before in these mountains, with whom he hath lately renewed the old confederacy again, as I know very well, and their Patriarch himself was with him, before I was called to cure him of his distemper. He also leaveth no stone unturned to get in with others, and to make them his confederates; so that he hath already secured to himself the _Syrians_, which are also Christians, yet not without gross errors, by paying to them a yearly pension. These speak also _Arabick_, and are very like unto them in shape, manners, fashion and cloaths; and I found two of them among our seamen, that confirmed this to me.

After we had gone on a great while, and were passed by the point of the promontary of _Barnti_, which extendeth itself far into the sea, our ship-master, who was a _Turk_, and understood the _Arabian_ language, shewed me a village lying beyond it, called _Burgi_, and told me, that that was also inhabited altogether by _Harani Quibir_, that is, great robbers and murtherers, as they always call these people. But I being better informed beforehand, I prayed by myself that God would be pleased to let the poor slaves that live in hard servitude under the _Turks_, who were these they call _Harani_; and I do not at all question, but they would soon take their refuge to them to make themselves free of their servitude, as those might easily do, that live about these countries in _Syria_.

We saw also upon the shoar some ancient towers, and among them chiefly two, which are renewed again, wherein the _Trusci_ keep watches to observe the pirates, but the others whereof there are a great many not above a league distant from one another, are for the greatest part by age decayed. Some say that they were formerly built by the potent Emperors, that if any nation should rise up in rebellion, they might immediately give notice thereof to _Constantinople_. These gave notice, before guns were invented, in the night by a flaming fire, and by day-time by a great smoak. And they still keep to this in many places, altho’ guns are now invented.

In the afternoon we were becalmed, and so our journey went on but slowly, we saw late at night a small village called _Carniola_ upon the height: and soon after at the foot of the high mount of _Libanus_, southward of the city of _Sidon_, by the inhabitants still called _Scida_, which is not very great, but as far as I could see, very well built, and defended by two castles, one whereof is situated towards the north on a high rock, the other on a little hill. Those that are going to _Saphet_, which is a day’s journey distant from it, land there. Before we could reach it, night befel us, and brought contrary winds, which hindered us so much, that we could hardly reach the glorious and rich town of _Tyrus_, now by the inhabitants called _Sur_, which lieth in a manner close to it, until the next morning. This is still pretty large, and lieth on a rock in the sea, about five hundred paces distant from the shoar of _Phœnicia_. In former ages _Alexander_ the Great did besiege it for seven months, and during the siege he filled up the streight of the sea, and did join it to the continent, and after he had taken it, he laid it into ashes, so that punishment was inflicted on the inhabitants which the Prophet _Esaias_ denounced against them four hundred years before.

On the confines of _Tirus_ and _Sidon_, that _Cananean_ woman came to _Christ_ on behalf of her daughter that was possessed of an unclean spirit, whereof the Lord, seeing her faith, did deliver her immediately.

Just before it, we heard a great noise of large running springs, which rise within the country with so great a vehemency, that they drive several mills. Within a large distance from thence, we saw a very fine new house called _Nacora_.

Two miles farther near mount _Saron_ within, southward, we saw a large village called _Sib_, without it in the sea round about were several banks and rocks, behind which we hid ourselves, the wind being contrary, and staid for a more favourable one; in the mean while, some of our men got out among the rocks to catch fish, and to find oisters, where they also gathered so much sea-salt, that they filled up a great sack with it.

Between this and mount _Carmelo_, which are eight leagues distant, and run out a great way into the seas, lieth almost in the middle thereof, as it were in a half moon, the famous town of _Acon_, anciently called _Ptolemais_, on a high rocky shoar, which some years ago, when _Baldewin_, the brother of _Gotefrid_, first, and _Guidon_ after him, did possess themselves of the Holy Land, was not without great loss of many men taken by them, from _Saladine_ King of the _Saracens_ in _Ægypt_, which had (after some obtained victories) surrendered itself again a second time, after a long siege. This town hath very good fields of a fertile soil about it, and is at this time, together with the Land of Promise and others, (to the great grief of the Christians) subjected under the yoak and slavery of the _Turkish_ Emperor.

The next day the wind favouring us, we hoisted up our sails, and got out at sea, with less danger to get before the point of the mountain, but our design was frustrated; for about noon a contrary wind arose, which did not only hinder us in our course, but violently drove us back again, so that we were forced to have recourse to our old shelter behind the rocks again. After midnight when it began to be calm, and another wind arose, we put out two hours before break of day, and went along the shore towards the town _Hayphe_, formerly call’d _Caypha_ or _Porphyria_, four leagues beyond _Acon_, lying just within mount _Carmel_, where on the evening when we came very near it, several frigats came out of all sides to surround us. As soon as the master of our ship perceived them, he did not like it, wherefore he let fall his sails, and exhorted his men to ply their oars to get clear of them. When they saw they could not reach us, they left their design and went back; but we landed without on that mount _Carmelo_, to put out again in the night. This mountain is very high and famous in Scripture; for we read in the third book of the _Kings_, and the eighteenth chapter, that the holy Prophet _Elias_ call’d before him upon the hill the people of _Israel_, the four hundred and fifty of _Baal_’s priests, and the four hundred of _Hayns_, to chide them for their idolatery; where also God heard him, and consumed his sacrifice by fire that came down from Heaven; but the priests of _Baal_ were not only not heard by their idols, but kill’d as idolaters near the river _Kison_; and also in the fifth of the epistle of _James_; that after the Heavens had been lock’d up for the space of three years and an half, _Elias_ did pray to God on this mount, and the Lord heard him, and let rain fall down upon the dry and barren earth. From this mountain, the (presumed) holy order of the _Carmelites_ taketh it’s name, which was first there endowed with several privileges by Pope _Innocent_ the third, and _Albert_ the Patriarch of _Jerusalem_, in the year 1205; and afterwards when they were encreased to a great number, under pretence of greater holiness, confirmed by the name of _The Brothers of our Lady_, by Pope _Honorius_ the third, in the year 1226. These pretend to be the followers of the doctrine of _Cyrillus_, wear daily black girded coats, and over them, when they say mass, white Monks habits. Some years ago without doubt, have a great many of this order lived hereabouts, as still to this day doth appear, by their cloisters and churches, which by age are so mightily decay’d, that they are left deserted and uninhabited. This mountain is also round about towards the sea-coast very bare and rough, that we may very well say with the holy Prophet _Amos_, _That the pastures of the herdsmen shall look miserably, and the top of the mountain dry up_.

The town _Hayphe_ lieth at the bottom of the mount _Carmelo_, is pretty large but very ill built, and the houses are so decay’d, that half of it is not fit to be inhabited. _Salidinus_, King of the _Saracens_, who in his time carry’d on long and heavy wars against the Christians, and was almost hardly able to resist them, caused the walls of it, and also that of _Cæsarea_ in _Palestina_, and others of less strength, to be pull’d down, that his enemies might not find any place of reception against him.

Out of this port, as we were afterwards inform’d, was a little time before taken away a pretty large and richly loaden ship by some pirates, which vexed the inhabitants very much, and being that the Christians chiefly were much suspected by them, they had a great desire to revenge it upon them again; so that we, had not our master been very honest, should have suffered for the loss they had sustain’d.

After we had lain there at anchor till after midnight, not without danger, as you may imagine, our master made haste to get out to sea, although it was very calm, in hopes to get good weather. After they had wrought very hard, a good wind arose behind us towards the morning, and drove us along, so that we got soon about, and pass’d the point of the mountain, and saw the country on the other side, which was above on the height so pleasant, green and shady, that there in a village resides a _Turkish_ Sangiack for pleasure’s sake.

Nor far from thence lieth the castle of the Pilgrims in the sea, by the inhabitants call’d _Altlit_, where most of them touch that take their way through _Galilæa_ and _Nazareth_ to _Jerusalem_. This hath been in former ages so well fortify’d with walls and bastions, that it was thought to be impregnable; but now it is on two sides towards the sea so demolish’d and destroy’d, that one may very reasonably guess, that it hath been formerly taken by storm.

The wind still encreasing more and more, we went on with such a swiftness, that although two little ships pursued us towards morning, yet they were forced to leave us, and so we soon passed the castle, and came towards _Dor_, three leagues distance from thence; it lieth near mount _Carmel_ in the country of _Phœnecia_, as _Josephus_ testifieth; and it is so decay’d that there is nothing more extant than a large and high tower, which the inhabitants still call _Dortaite_. In this country when the Jews took _Canaan_ the Land of Promise, they let the inhabitants remain, as you may read in the first chapter of the _Judges_.

At a leagues distance from thence, you see the ancient and famous town _Cæsaria_ of _Palestine_, situated by the sea on a high bank, which King _Herod_ did renew; and call’d it after the Emperor _Cæsarea_, which still to this day, among the _Turks_ and _Moors_, retaineth it’s ancient name _Kæsarie_. In this town did live the pious centurian _Cornelius_, who was baptized there with his whole family by _Peter_ the Apostle, who was call’d thither from the town _Joppe_. There did also live _Philip_ the Evangelist, one of the seven Deacons, into whose house the holy Apostle _Paul_ did go, and staid there some days; where also the Prophet _Agabus_ did foretel him, That he was to be made a prisoner at _Jerusalem_. Now although this town in those days was very well built, as one may still see by the important and stately antiquities that are still remaining there, yet now in our times it is in walls and buildings so mightily decay’d, that it is hardly fit to be inhabited, much less to be defended, or to make any resistance. And for all that it is still pretty large, but so lonesome and so depopulated, that we could hardly see any body in the large and broad streets thereof as we passed by.

For some leagues before, or about it, I saw nothing remarkable, only a _Turkish_ Mosque, or church, in the height upon a hilly shore, where they meet to worship _Mahomet_.

When the evening broke in, we had still ten leagues to sail to the port or harbour of _Joppe_, where the pilgrims use to go ashore to travel by land to _Jerusalem_, yet the wind drove us on with such a force, that we got into it two hours after sun-set.

CHAP. II.

_A short relation of my travels by land from the harbour of ~Joppe~, to the city of ~Jerusalem~._

In the morning early as soon as the day did appear, which was the thirteenth day of _September_ 1575, we got on shore, and dispatch’d immediately some to the town of _Rama_, two leagues distant from thence, to get us a safe conduct or pass, from the Sangiack, and to bring along with them some Mockeri, or ass-driving carriers, to provide us carriage to _Jerusalem_. In the mean while we stay’d upon the high rocky shore, where the town _Joppe_ did stand formerly, which at this time was so demolish’d that there was not one house to be found, where the pilgrims at their arrival could shelter themselves, save only three large vaults, which went very deep into the hill, and extended themselves towards the sea. Into these are sometimes the Pilgrims let in, but being that at that time, a great deal of corn was laid up there, whereunto they still daily added, on purpose to supply _Constantinople_ during the scarcity, it was forbidden that any body should be let in.

The town _Joppe_, by the inhabitants call’d _Japha_, is by it’s old name very well known to us, by the books of the Prophets and Apostles, _&c._ where we read, That the Prophet _Jonas_, when the Lord bid him to preach to the _Ninevites_ desolation and destruction, for fear did retire thither, and there took ship, where he was thrown out into the seas in the great storm and tempest, and swallow’d up by a great fish; and after he had been there for three days and nights he was vomited out again. And we read also in the _Acts of the Apostles_, in the ninth and tenth chapter, from _Peter_ the Apostle, That he lay, or tarry’d, for a while at the house of _Simon_ the Tanner, where he raised the sister _Tabitha_ from the dead, _&c._

_Joppe_ at that time was very well built and fortify’d, which doth appear, because a good many of the Jews did, at the time of the desolation of _Jerusalem_, retire thither, to defend themselves against the might of the _Romans_, although it was but in vain; for being that the time of the punishment, that was to befall them, was at hand, the city therefore was two several times one after another, besieged and taken, and demolish’d, and as _Josephus_ testifieth, about 12600 Jews were kill’d in it. We also read, That after the time of _Gotfrid de Boullion_, when the Christians lost again the Land of Promise, that then this town was also retaken again by the infidels, and razed to the foundations; so that now there are no antiquities at all to be seen. And I should have doubted very much whether there did ever stand such a town there, had I not seen some large pieces of the ancient town walls still remaining, which are so near to the sea, that there is hardly room to go at the outside of them.

Hard by this I suppose was the habitation of _Simon_ the Tanner, where _Peter_ sojourn’d, because the Evangelist St _Luke_ saith, That it was near to the sea shore.

Above it on the height stand two towers, where some watchmen attend to look after the vaults and ships in the harbour, that they may not be assaulted by the pirates; this harbour, although it is surrounded with rocks and banks, yet it is but very slightly secured, and very narrow and shallow, so that ships of any great bulk or heavy laden, cannot ride in it.

Near to them groweth the _Hemerocallis_, which I have also found about _Montpelier_ and _Aigemort_ near to the sea. And also in the adjacent moist and mashy meadows, I found a delicate kind of _Limonium_ which hath about ten or twelve _Aspleniun_ or _Cetarach_ leaves on both sides; these proceed from a long root of a brown colour without, and red within; between them sprout out two three-square stalks, about a cubit high, with a great many joints, that have three long small leaves, and are adorn’d at the top with beautiful and stately blue and purple colour’d flowers; they are of a drying nature, and the inhabitants use to eat them in sallads.

Presently after dinner our men return’d, and brought along with them the pass and the carriers; our master of the ship left some of the crew in his _Caramusala_ to look after it in our absence; we mounted and went away, and came soon into the plain fields where _Jonathas_, slew _Apollonius_ the Captain, as is said in the first of _Maccabees_ the tenth chapter.

Soon after we saw a pleasant village call’d _Jasura_, and when we came a little nearer, a camp of a great _Turkish_ Lord, who sent (as soon as he espy’d us on the road, and found that we were pilgrims) some of his men to us, to call us before him, and also to tell us, That he was one of them to whom the Grand Sultan had given charge of the Temple and the mount _Calvaria_, with strict order to let no Pilgrim in before they had paid a certain sum of money. So we went along with them, and appeared before him in his tent, put our right hand on our breast, bended ourselves forwards, and made him, according to their custom, his compliments. After he had look’d upon us for a great while, he bid his men to receive the money of us; so each of us paid him nine ducats that had their full weight, except the _Grecian_ who paid only five, and at their request we staid with them all night, because their master intended to send a Janizary with us the next day, to let us into the temple. This Lord, who was an Eunuch, had a great many offices; for in these countries they are by the great ones, as Bashaws, Sangiacks, Cadees, _&c._ so much esteem’d, that in their absence they make them stewards over all their goods and chattels, wives and children, _&c._

At that time he was there to gather great quantity of corn from these fruitful countries, it being harvest time, and to send it from thence to _Joppe_, to go by sea for _Constantinople_.

After midnight we mounted again, and came early in the morning to the town _Rama_, and went into the house of the pilgrims, which _Philip_ Duke of _Burgundy_ bought, and gave it to the Pilgrims as their inn. This is very large, and hath a great many arched chambers within, and a fine well; within the inner court is a pretty large place, all grown over with green Aloës, the juice whereof is brought over to us in large pieces, from the eastern countries, and is very useful in many tedious distempers; _Nicodemus_ did also bring with him, together with myrrh, to the quantity of one hundred pounds, to the grave of _Christ_ our Lord, to bury his body decently according to the Jewish fashion, as you may read in the nineteenth chapter of St _John_. Here we staid almost three days, and had all along enough to do to agree with the Cadi, Subashaw, Clerks, Janizaries and Paityfs, _&c._ about our free passage; so unjust, malicious, and infidel a people are they, that one would hardly believe it.

The town is situated on an ascent in plain fields, as is before said, which extend themselves for two leagues to the hill of the city of _Jerusalem_. These fields are very fruitful, and very well till’d and sown with corn, cotton, and _Indian_ millet. Hereabouts do also grow _Indian_ muskmelions in great quantity, by the _Arabians_ call’d _Batiere_, which are very pleasant and well tasted, chiefly those that are red within; so that in all my travels I hardly met with the like.

The town is pretty large, but very open like unto a village, very pitifully built, where one may still see here and there some signs of old building.

From thence northwards within half a league lieth the town _Diospolis_, formerly call’d _Lidda_, where _Peter_ did visit the Saints, and cured one named _Æneas_, that had had a palsie for eight years. Nothing else is to be seen there, but the church of St _George_, whom the _Turks_ chiefly honour, as a Knight and _Hero_, before all other Saints. After they had quite tired us, during this time, with their continual impertinencies, we agreed with them, and went away early in the morning, and came in good time over the plain, to the mountain of the city of _Jerusalem_, to which we had still four leagues to travel. By the way there appeared presently on the mountains several _Arabians_, and ran before us in great clusters to cut us off in our way, with such violence, that we were almost forced to come to our defence, and to push our way through them by force; for our Janizaries had already flung their iron club into the backside of one of them, and had almost spoil’d him. When they found us to be in earnest, they took something to drink of us and let us alone. So we must, before we arrived at the old destroy’d and ruinated _Jerusalem_ (where there is no joy nor hopes to get any thing, as is in the Heavenly one) soon one after another pay them, just like boys that have lost their game and run the gauntlet.

After we had endured all these brushes we went on, and came to the middle of the way of the mountains, where it was very rough and stony, into a small village call’d _Anatoth_, lying on a height, where we rested a little, and water’d our beasts at a very rich spring, that runs through it by an ancient little church down the hill; this is situated (as _Josephus_ writes in his tenth book and tenth chapter of his Antiquities, or Ancient History) within twenty furlongs of _Jerusalem_. There was born the holy Prophet _Jeremiah_, as you may see in his first chapter; and it is also call’d by _Esaiah_ a pitiful village, which, together with the town _Rama_, did formerly belong to the inheritance of the children of _Benjamin_. Thither went also _Abiathar_, when King _Salomon_ did depose or exclude him from his priesthood, to live on his own ground. A little before it they shew’d us at the top of the height of _Silo_, of mount _Ephraim_, some relicts of the grave of the Holy Prophet _Samuel_, where we could look about for several leagues round, which was of _Ramatha_, or _Arimathea_, as also _Joseph_ the Just, who helped to take _Christ_ down from the cross, and did put him into his own new grave. The town was underneath the mountain where the Prophet _Samuel_ was buried at first, but carry’d up to _Silo_, after the town was taken.

Just when you come to _Jerusalem_, _Nicopolis_ lieth on the left hand upon the height, formerly call’d _Emmaus_, from _Jerusalem_ threescore furlongs distant, as the Scripture telleth us; whither _Christ_ did accompany the two disciples, and explained the Scriptures to them, and at last made himself known to them. We left it and went up to _Jerusalem_, which is now call’d _Gotz_ by the _Arabians_ and _Turks_. The road is very rough and rocky; so that we saw very little, but on each side in the valleys many delicate large olive-trees, and some few vineyards.

The city lieth on the height of the mountains, as the 125th Psalm testifieth. It is not to be seen, until you come over the bare and rough mountains intercepting the prospect of it on this side.

Just before it without on the top of mount _Gihon_, are to be seen still some antiquities of the town _Helia_, which _Adrian_ the Emperor built after the desolation of _Jerusalem_, and called it after his own name _Helia_. This was first taken by _Cosroë_, King of _Persia_, in the time of the Emperor _Heraclius_ who did overcome him again, and afterwards by _Homar_ the third King of the _Saracens_, who demolish’d it; afterwards it was more contracted, and somewhat built again in it’s old place. In these days it is, as well as all that country, under the dominion of the _Turkish_ Emperor.

Before it we dismounted, for no outlandish man hath permission to ride into their towns, and went under the gate _Hebron_, to stay there for the Father Guardian, to whom we had by one of our carriers given notice of our arrival, and also desired him to get us license from the Sangiack to come in. In the mean time some Mendicant Friars came out of the monastry, and received us very kindly. Soon after the Ermin came also riding with his clerk, and ask’d us from whence we came, how many there were of us, and what our names were. And after they had written it down, and every one had paid him his due, to have safe conduct to see the holy places, the Ermin promised it us, and put his right hand upon his head, which is the fashion in these countries, and bended forwards to let us know that we might confide in his promise. Then they let us pass, and the Friars conducted us in, towards the left hand, through some small streets or lanes into the monastry, which is behind on the town-wall towards the west.

This although it is not large and spacious, yet is it very handsome and strong built; we went into lodge there as all Pilgrims do that come there, where Father _Jeremy_ of _Brixen_, a brother of the order of the _Minorites_ of St _Francis_, a Guardian of the holy mount _Zion_, who had been president of this monastry of _Jerusalem_, and of the other of _Bethlehem_ for eighteen years together, received us very kindly. There are but very few Monks in it, and they are of all sorts of nations, as _Italians_, _Spaniards_, _French_, and _Germans_, yet of the last named I found not one when I arrived there. These lead the Pilgrims about, together with an interpreter or _Truschemant_, that understands the _Arabian_ and _Turkish_ language, and shew them the holy places as well within as without the city. But before we went out the Father Guardian admonish’d us, that we must have a care, and not go to the graves of the heathens, which are almost throughout _Turkey_ without the towns near to the highways; for if one or more should, before he was aware of it, which may easily happen, go to them, the _Turks_ would be very much offended at it, partly because they take any one that is not circumcised to be unclean, and so they fear that they might make them also unclean; partly because they are very jealous of their wives, wherefore they permit them not easily to walk or appear in the open street, except they have a mind to go into the bath or bagnio, or to visit the graves of their deceased parents or relations; and where women are present, every one had best to come away, to avoid danger.

After he had said this he went on, saying, That if any should be among us, that were come over the sea, hither, that could not bring very good proof, that they did appear before his Holiness the Pope at _Rome_, and were there absolved by him, that such were in his Holiness’s excommunication, and therefore could not be admitted to see those holy places, much less obtain the indulgences, which in former ages had been left with them, out of great kindness of the Popes, to be distributed among the Pilgrims, wherefore he desired, that every one might shew him their certificates. All these points he used to propound to every one that cometh there, in course, as I had heard before of several that had been there formerly; that they were very glad to see Pilgrims arrive, and that they used to shew the holy places to them also that bring no recommendation from his Holiness the Pope, hoping that they will recompense them at their departure. Wherefore I did not much mind this excommunication, but let that remain in it’s ancient credit; but my comrades, two whereof were Priests that used to say mass, were very much astonish’d at it, and full of trouble, that they should be under his Holiness’s excommunication before they were aware of it; wherefore they began to excuse themselves, and said, That they did not know any thing of it, neither had they had any opportunity in their travels to come to _Rome_; but although this had been omitted before their arrival, yet they would certainly do it as they went back. Notwithstanding all this the Guardian seem’d to be very earnest, and made shew as if he could not absolve them; yet at last, after he had long enough kept them in this fear, he began to declare, that he had also received full power from his Holiness, and the whole _Roman Catholic_ church, to absolve all those that did not bring any certificates. And so at last absolved us in the cloisters of his monastry in _Latin_ with these words: _I absolve you of all your sins in the name of the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost._ And with this he concluded his speech.

CHAP. III.

_A plain description of the city of ~Jerusalem~, as it was to be seen in our time; and of the adjacent countries._

The glorious and kingly city of _Jerusalem_ (which formerly the _Saracens_ called _Kurzitadon_, but now is named _Chutz_ by the inhabitants) is still situated in the old place, in the middle of _Judea_ on the high mountains, and as the head is extolled above the rest; which may be concluded, partly because from thence you may see all the country as from a center, partly also because the springs rise here, and so run down, as from a higher place, every way and to every part thereof; as the holy Prophet _Ezekiel_ doth testify in his fourteenth chapter, where he saith; _That at that time fresh streams shall flow from Jerusalem, half thereof to the sea toward the east, and the other half towards the farthest sea_. There are also many other places of Scripture that[4] testify the high situation of _Jerusalem_, as in the eighth chapter of the _Acts_, verse 26. where the angel of the Lord spake unto _Phillip_, saying, _Arise and go towards the south, unto the way that goeth down from Jerusalem unto Gaza_, &c. And in the tenth chapter of St _Mark_, and the thirty-second verse, _And they were in the way going up to Jerusalem_. And the tenth chapter of St _Luke_, verse 30. _A certain man went down from Jerusalem to Jericho._ And verse 31. _And by chance there came down a certain priest that way_, &c.

The situation of _Jericho_, together with the great plains thereabout, through which the river _Jordan_ runs from the north towards the south, together with the Dead-sea, where formerly _Sodom_ and _Gomorrah_ stood, you see from the town, over a barren hill below, so plainly, that one would think we might go thither with ease in three hours, and yet it would require a whole day’s journey. Beyond the river that separateth _Arabia_ from _Judæa_, lie the high hills _Abarim_ and _Nebo_, over-against _Jericho_, whence _Moses_, (as is said, _Deuteronomy_ the 32d and 34th chapters) had a full prospect of the land of _Canaan_, promised to _Abraham_, _Isaac_ and _Jacob_; one may see them thence so plainly, as also the mount _Seir_, which toucheth them beyond the Dead-sea in the land of the _Moabites_ and _Ammonites_, that one would also think they were very near.

They bring yearly a vast quantity of sheep to _Jerusalem_ from off the mountains, which feeding upon the fragrant, delicate and hearty herbs that grow there, have meat that tastes very pleasantly, the tails thereof are very fat, above half a span thick, and one and a half broad and long. The Levetical Priest (as we read in _Leviticus_ the ninth chapter, and other places) used to burn this together with all the fat of the entrails, and the two kidneys for a sin-offering.

There are also goats, with hanging ears almost two foot long. And therefore some _Arabians_, called _Balduini_, keep in the desarts, that have no certain abode, but lie continually in the fields, and go from country to country in great numbers, wheresoever they find good pasture for their beasts and camels. I have met with many of them in my travels, and have some time staid with them all night in their tents, they are commonly soldiers armed usually with bows and long pikes made of cane, as the other _Arabians_, and because of their nimbleness and courage they are very much preferred before the rest.

This Holy Land (which, according to the promise made to the Patriarchs, was for many years in the possession of the _Israelites_) was, as you read in _Deuteronomy_ chap. viii. a most fruitful and rich country, abounding with corn, fruits, wine, and all that is required to the maintenance of man’s life. So the Lord himself saith, _That he will give them a land, that still floweth with milk and honey_. For it hath rich valleys, hills, fields and gardens, richly adorned with fountains and trees, so that it was very well chosen to be the worldly Paradise, wherein _Adam_ and _Eve_ did live, honour and serve God. Now as the land in it’s goodness surpassed other lands, so did _Jerusalem_ excel all other cities in building, glory, fortification, and number of inhabitants. Moreover God visited the _Israelites_ from the beginning, and had a house built in this city for himself, which he chose before all others to sanctify his name there. And above all this he provided them with High Priests, Kings and Prophets, until God the Father did send his only begotten Son, our Lord _Jesus Christ_ in the flesh, to reveal to them his will with teaching and miracles.