Chapter VIII: Front Matter (8)

When I was thus enquiring from one or other, and endeavouring to inform myself and learn whether it were more commodious for us two to go by water to _Ormutz_, or by land through _Persia_ into the _Indies_, and we thought of nothing else but to begin our voyage daily to go farther; I was call’d on a sudden by a letter to come away for _Aleppo_ immediately, which troubled me very much, and that the more when I considered, that I was past the wilderness and come into the fruitful eastern countries, which would have been very well worth seeing. So after I had considered a while, I agreed with my comrade that he should go on with the voyage in hand, and that I, because besides the letter, I had others no smaller hindrances, would go back again. So I fitted him out for his voyage with all necessaries, so that two days after, he went with other merchants into the ship for _Balsara_. Not long after, I had a very mournful message, or account, that the ship, wherein he went from _Balsara_ to _Ormutz_, was perished in a great storm near the Island _Baccharis_ in the _Persian_ sea, where they find good store of oriental pearls, and that he and several other merchants, and rich merchants sons from _Aleppo_ were drowned. At the same time I might have returned back again with a great caravan to _Aleppo_ but because they took the straightest way through great and sandy desarts, which lasted for fifty days journey or thereabouts, where we had but two places to pay custom in, where we could buy provision, as water and other necessaries, I resolved within myself to go by more fruitful places, and famous towns (although I went about) where I might see and learn something more; so I did stay in the great _Camp_ longer until I met with some companions. In the mean time, while I stayed there, I made my self acquainted with an eminent Merchant, that lived in _Aleppo_, and had been several times in the _Indies_; who told me, that the Jesuits had begun to set up a very severe inquisition in the _Indies_; chiefly in _Goa_, where they observed diligently those that did not take off their hats to the images (which were set up in several streets of the town) that they might put them into prison, which he did very much dislike, believing it to be very great idolatry.

After he had said this, he began to talk farther to me concerning religion, and chiefly of the articles of our Christian faith; and made me immediately (when he began to be sensible that I was of the same) so fine a confession of his Christian faith, so plainly and with such grounds of scripture, that I was astonished, for I could never have believed I could have met with the fellow of him in these countries. So he began to have a great love for me, and desired me to go along with him, and to stay with him in his house, until I had an opportunity to go farther, or that I might make him a companion in his voyage into the _Indies_, that during those travels he would shew me all kindnesses he could; nay, be as careful of me, as if I were his own son. And after he understood that I was a Physician, he proferred of his own accord to recommend me to the _Bashaw_, who was then sick, and his very good friend, to be his Physician. But I having understood before, that others that had done the same, had been but very ill rewarded for the pains and care they had taken, and chiefly by those they did cure; I would not undertake it, fearing I should have the same measure, and instead of a reward have my liberty taken away from me, wherefore I thanked him for his kindness. Had it not been for this, I should have accepted of it, notwithstanding that they have no Apothecaries shops that are any thing provided, but I must have bought the ingredients from one shop-keeper or other and so collected them from several places, for I could hardly find any thing by them, saving some strange sort of turpentine nuts, whereof they have abundance, and they are as good, as _Pistachios_; wherefore the inhabitants keep them by them, and eat them as we eat small nuts in our country. I have eaten several of them, and found them of a saltish taste and of a drying quality. These are called by the _Arabians_, _Botn_, and by the _Persians_, _Terbaick_. I have chiefly seen two kinds of them, the greater and the less, and so the _Arabians_ distinguish them into _Botnquibir_ and _Sougier_. The bigger is in shape pretty like unto the pistach nut, only it is a little rounder and shorter; the lesser is with it’s hard shell of the bigness of a pea, and are shaped like unto an hart, or the _Dora_, that is, the _Indian-Hart_. A great many of them grow in _Agemia_, _Persia_, _Mesopotamia_ and _Armenia_, &c. and grow together in clusters like Grapes as the _Pistachios_ do, or rather the Berries of our _Turpentine-Trees_, for which they ought to be taken; chiefly, because the trees whereon they grow, are in their long leaves pretty like unto the _Turpentine-Tree_ whereby they are easily distinguished from the _Pistachio-Tree_ which hath roundish ones. This being so, I take the little one for the _Bell_, and the great one for the _Fael_ of _Serapio_, _Avicenna_ and _Rhasis_, which (as authors say) grow chiefly in the _Indies_: And this the rather, because authors attribute the same virtue and operation to them. So may according to this, chiefly the great nuts _Fael_ be taken for the fruit of the _Indian Turpentine-Tree_, whereof _Theophrastus_ in his fourth book and chapter five, maketh mention; all which would be too tedious to be related here at large. Besides these nuts, the before-mentioned authors (chiefly _Serapio_ in his 251st chapter) makes still mention of another sort of fruit, called by him _Sel_, and by _Avicenna_, _Scal_, which are not in hard shells, but as I saw them, quite bare, of the bigness of a _Pistachio_-nut, and of the colour of the kernel of our _Wall-nut_; they have a pretty bitterish taste, and sensibly sharp. I did find none of them in these parts by the shop-keepers, but had it only after that in the monastery of the _Minorites_ in _Jerusalem_, of one of their order, who told me also that they did grow in these countries. Of coloquints, of white gourd apples, still known to the people by the old name _Handhal_, there grow so many hereabout, that they send them to _Aleppo_, and from thence into our countries; and also the delicate round _Cyperus_ root, by the inhabitants called _Soëdt_, whereof one may find great quantities growing in mossy and wet grounds. I did also find by the shop-keepers, the white seed of _Machaleb_, which are in hard shells, which are long and pointed, and covered without with a tender skin, like unto the _Pistachio_-nut. A great quantity of them are carried from thence into _Syria_, and used to perfume soap-balls. The trees whereon they grow I did not see, yet, as I am informed, they grow hereabouts, but chiefly on the mountains that are by the way to _Persia_. They are still to this day by the inhabitants, as by _Serapio_, call’d _Nahandt_. But although there are several sorts of them, yet they all boil them (after they have been steep’d for some hours in water, to get off the thin shells, as we do with Almonds) in milk or wine into a pap, and put sugar or honey to it, chiefly to the white ones to take away their bitterness. I found farther a strange gum in great pieces, somewhat like unto Frankincense, or _Ammoniacum_, which the inhabitants chew all day long instead of _Mastich_, and they attribute the same virtues to it. Wherefore great quantities thereof are brought thither (chiefly from _Persia_) which they call _Taxa_, as I am informed from the Tree _Tax_, which are very like unto _Cypresses_ in shew and bigness, only their roots are not so long, wherefore they are the easier over-turned by the wind. According to this, I remember of the Trees _Thuja_, whereof _Theophrastus_ maketh mention in book v. chap. 5. and of _Thya_ of _Pliny_. I also saw without the _Batzars_ or Exchanges, very high and big _Caper-trees_; and here and there in the fields a peculiar sort of red-grass, like unto that of _Babylon_, according to the description of _Dioscorides_, and hath still retained it’s ancient _Arabian_ name _Negil_ among the inhabitants. This hath long fibrous and yellowish roots, with many joynts, and puts out by them yearly several buds, which grow into hard leaves, which are long and pointed, and at each side very sharp and cutting, like unto them of the red-grass; between them come out small stalks or holms, each whereof hath a peculiar ear at the top coming out of it’s grass sheath, which is long, thin, and it’s seeds grow in two rows, between small leaves, like unto the wild _Galengal_. This doth not only grow hereabouts, but also in several other places and provinces, where the ground is sandy, as _Susiana_, _Persia_, &c. in great quantity, and because it is by reason of it’s sharpness and cutting, very pernicious to beasts, as to bullocks, horses, _&c._ so that they die of it, therefore they have or keep the fewer of them, but instead thereof they keep buffles (which can feed upon it easier than other beasts) to eat this grass, which maketh the buffle very cheap in these countries, for I have seen one buy three of them for eight ducats (_which is in our money about 48 Shillings_) that was bigger than an _Hungarian_ bullock. Thus much I had to relate of _Bagdat_, it’s situation, trade, and strange plants, so much as I could find and see at that improper time.

Being that I expected daily company to go with me to _Aleppo_ again, by the way of several towns, and not straight through the sandy wildernesses, a _Persian_ that I got acquainted withal in the mean while did inform me, that the Sophi, King of _Persia_, had several unicorns at _Samarcand_, which he kept there; and also in two islands _Alc_ and _Tylos_, which lay from _Samarcand_ nine days journey farther towards the east, near _Spaam_, some _Griffins_ (by them called _Alera_) which were sent him out of _Africa_ from _Prester-John_. They are a great deal bigger and higher, have a red coloured head, a bearded bill, and a neck over-grown with feathers, a thick body, black wings like unto an eagle, and a long tail like a lion, and feet like a dragon, they are very eager for flesh; while they are yet young, the King taketh them along with him, and goeth often thither for sport and pleasures sake; but as they grow up and strong, he hath them chained about their necks very strongly. I did believe this the sooner[3], because he could also tell me what trees and fruit grow there, and chiefly those whereof _Theophrastus_ maketh mention, and out of him _Pliny_. He also gave me an account besides these of others that grow out of _Persia_ in several places, as of the tree _Palla_, which _Theophrastus_ and _Pliny_ mention, which the wise men did eat in the eastern countries, and of the _Musa_ of the _Arabians_, whereof the former bear delicate sweet-tasted, and very wholesome fruit, by them called _Wac_, which are round, reddish, and as big as the _Indian_ Melons. But whether this be the noble fruit _Mangas_, (whereof _Clusius_ maketh mention in his _History_ of _Indian Plants_, which for goodness sake is carried over sea into _Persia_) I leave to the learned to decide. But the _Musa_ (which is as aforesaid, also common in _Syria_) beareth a great deal smaller fruit, which is smooth, yellowish, and bended almost like unto citruls in shape. These are also of a sweetish taste, and therefore the pleasanter to eat; but are very unwholesome, so that _Alexander_ the Great was forced to forbid his soldiers to eat of them. The same _Persian_, did also inform me of the poisonous fruit _Persea_, which is still known to them by the name of _Sepha_; which they esteem very little; and also the _Peaches_ (called _Het_) which are not so poisonous (as some say) as the above-mentioned; for they esteem the kernels thereof to be good, wholesome physic. But yet that they are not esteemed by them, the chief reason is, that they perswade themselves, that _Nimrod_ (who was a great Magician or Necromancer) poisoned them by his black-art, and that since that time, they could not be eaten; wherefore they have not been esteemed ever since: This I thought convenient to mention, rather for the sake of those, that have a mind to travel, that if one or more of them should go into these countries, they might have occasion to make a more accurate enquiry after these things.

CHAP. IX.

_Which way I came in my return from ~Bagdat~ through ~Assyria~, the confines of ~Persia~, and the province of the ~Curters~, to the town ~Carcuch~, ~Capril~, &c. and at length to the river ~Tygris~, to ~Mossel~, that famous town, which was formerly call’d ~Nineveh~._

When hinder’d in my travels, for several weighty reasons, I was forced to go back again; I look’d up my goods, as I was advised by my good friend the Christian, whereof I made mention here before, and fitted myself for my journey. I got for my companions three Jews, one whereof came down the _Euphrates_ with me, the others came from _Ormutz_, for I could get no others, to travel with me to _Aleppo_. We set out on the sixteenth of _December_ in the year 1574, for _Carcuch_ distant six days journey, in the confines of _Media_, on the other side of the river _Tygris_, which is still call’d by them in their language _Hidekel_. By the way we first saw some well-till’d fields, and above us on the river _Tygris_ some villages, so that I could not but think I should meet with a country that had plenty of corn, must and honey, _&c._ as it was commended by the Arch-koob-bearer of the King of _Assyria_, and compared even with the Land of Promise, but the farther we went, the greater grew the wildernesses, so that we were forced to lodge all night in the fields.

The next morning there appeared a great way off more little villages belonging to the King of _Persia_: But we went on through the desarts, and my fellow-travellers told me that they extend themselves to _Persia_ and _Media_, where we lost our way, and came in the evening into a bog which hindered us so much, that I, because their Sabbath began, whereon according to their laws they must not travel, was forced to stay there with them all night long in it, and also the next day, in great showers of rain, not without great inconveniency and trouble. During our staying there I look’d about me for some plants; but found none, because they did but first begin to sprout; but in the moist places some wild Galengal with great round roots, by the inhabitants call’d _Soëdt_, and by both _Latins_ and _Grecians_, _Cyperus_.

The nineteenth day, after we were not without trouble, got out of the mire, our way extended itself still farther thro’ desolate places and desarts. I thought of _Julian_ that impious _Roman_ Emperor, and of his army, which when it went against the _Persians_, and was very numerous, over the river _Tygris_ near to _Ctesiphon_, he was by an ancient _Persian_ that was a prisoner, decoy’d into these desarts, where he was beaten and routed by the _Persians_. In this great fight when the Emperor himself was mortally wounded, he took up, as _Nicephorus_ and _Eusebius_ say, a handful of blood and flung into the air, yielded the victory and said, Then _Galilean_ (so he call’d Christ, in whom he at first believed, and afterwards deny’d and persecuted) thou hast beaten and conquer’d me. After we had lived for several days very hardly in the desarts, and spent our time in misery, we came on the twentieth by _Scherb_, a village over an ascent, into another more fruitful and well till’d country, situated on the confines of _Persia_, and for the most part inhabited by them, which we could conjecture by the common language. Now, though travelling through the confines uses commonly to be very dangerous, yet, I thank God, we met with none, so that we without any stop or hindrance reach’d that night, the twenty first of _December_, to _Schilb_, a curious village, where we rested all night and refresh’d ourselves.

From thence we went on through large and fruitful vallies, but I found nothing (for it was but just at the beginning of ploughing time) that was worthy to be mention’d, for the plants did but just begin to sprout; we had by the way several villages, and so we had better opportunity to buy provision. The twenty third at night we came to one where we could buy near one hundred eggs for two pence.

The next day we got up early again, and saw before us the high mountain _Tauri_, all covered with snow (which extended itself a great way from north and west to the eastward) at a great distance. We went on a-pace, and advanced to _Tauk_ early in good time, and before their Sabbath began again. This town is not very strong and lieth on a plain. We went into a camp without it, and rested there all the Sabbath. After Sun-set, when it began to grow dark, they desired of me to light a candle. I remembred then immediately, that they could not do it themselves, being forbid by law, as you may find in the thirty fifth chapter of _Exodus_, where you may see that they must kindle no fire in any of their habitations, wherefore they furnish themselves the day before with all sorts of provisions and necessaries, that they may not need to do any labour on the Sabbath, and yet may not want. When these Jews say their prayers, they use the same ceremonies as the Christians and Heathens in the eastern parts do: For first they lift up their hands, then they bow down forwards with their whole body, and at last they kneel down and kiss the ground. These Jews bragged continually of their Patriarchs, and made mention of the laws; but of the ten commandments they knew nothing, wherefore I took an occasion to repeat them before them in the _Portugal_ language, which is very much spoke in the _Indies_, as well as I could, and they did admire when they heard them, how I came to know them. But when I began to speak of Christ and his offices, they burst out into such blasphemies, that I was glad to say no more, but hold my tongue.

Not far off from _Tauk_, we saw a very strong castle, near unto a wood, that is guarded by a _Turkish_ garrison: This is situated in the province of the _Curters_, which beginneth there, and lieth between _Media_ and _Mesopotamia_, all along the river _Tygris_ and reacheth to _Armenia_. These _Curters_, which are almost all _Nestorians_, speak a peculiar language, which was unknown to my fellow-travellers, wherefore they could not speak to them in the _Persian_ nor _Turkish_ language, which is spoke all along from _Bagdat_ through _Assyria_, in the confines of two potent monarchs, to that place. We were therefore forced to desire others that understood both languages, to be our interpreters through the country of the _Curters_. But whether this language did run upon that of their neighbours the _Medians_ or no, I could not certainly learn; but yet I was inform’d that the _Parthians_, _Medes_, and _Persians_, as peculiar nations, had their peculiar languages, as histories tell us, and we may also perfectly see in the _Acts of the Apostles_ the second chapter and the eight verse, where it is thus written: _And how hear we every man in our own tongue, wherein we were born? ~Parthians~ and ~Medes~, and ~Elamites~, and the dwellers in ~Mesopotamia~, &c._ All which people almost are subject unto the Sophi, the mighty King of _Persia_. The before-mention’d _Curters_ were formerly call’d _Carduchi_, and afterwards also _Cardueni_ (as chiefly _Xenophon_ testifieth) have had their peculiar policy and government. But after many changes and wars, they are at length subdued and brought under the dominion of the _Turkish_ Emperor, to whom they are still subject to this day, and he hath every where his garrisons in opposition to the Sophi. But what is farther to be said of them, chiefly concerning their religion, shall be hereafter mention’d, when I shall give you an account among other Christians, of those that live in the temple of mount _Calvaria_ in _Jerusalem_.

After the Sabbath of the Jews, my companions, was over, we went on again, and came the twenty sixth of _December_ to _Carcuck_, a glorious fine city lying in a plain, in a very fertile country; at four miles distance is another that lieth on an ascent, whither we also travell’d, my companions having business in both of them, and so we spent two days in them before we were ready to go on again.

The twenty ninth we travell’d through large and dry heaths, and came at night to some tents, which were made of hair or hair-cloath, wrought out of goats and asses hair, and fix’d in such an order, that they made streets and allies like unto a market-town. In one of these we went to lodge with these poor people, (that were white _Moors_, and like unto the _Gypsuns_ in their shape and figure) and to stay there all night long. But whether these people are subject to the _Turkish_ Emperor, or to the King of _Persia_, or to any other, I could not find out by their cloaths, because they all wear the same hereabouts, nor could I discern any thing by their language. To us came a little after some more travellers, so that we had hardly room to lie down in. These people were very diligent and busy to get us some meat and drink, for the husband went soon out of doors to gather dry boughs and stalks of herbs, which I could not at that time discern what they were, and brought them to us to boil or dress some meat with them. The woman was not idle neither, but brought us milk and eggs to eat, so that we wanted for nothing; she made also some dough for cakes, which were about a finger thick, and about the bigness of a trencher (as is usual to do in the wilderness, and sometimes in towns also) she laid them on hot stones and kept them a turning, and at length she flung the ashes and embers over them, and so bak’d them thoroughly. They were very good to eat, and very savory. This way of baking cakes is not new, but hath been very usual among the ancients, so we find in Scripture mention made of bread bak’d among the ashes; the _Romans_ call’d it, _Panes Subcineritios_; and so we read in _Genesis_ the eighteenth chapter, of cakes made upon the hearth, which _Sarah_ made in haste when the three men came to see _Abraham_.

The thirtieth we went from thence, and about noon we came to a town call’d _Presta_, which is chiefly towards the river whereon it lieth, very well fortify’d, but what the inhabitants call that river, I do not remember, but according to it’s situation it must be that which _Ptolomy_ call’d _Gorgus_, which runs below into the _Tyger_. In this place they make floats, which although they are not very big, nor have much wood in them, yet they have abundance of bucks and goats skins blown up, hung or fixed underneath the bottom, without doubt, by reason that they may load the more upon them, and also because the river is rapid, that they may have the less fear or danger. On these floats they carry several sorts of merchandizes, but chiefly fruit, _viz._ Figs, Almonds, Cibebs, Nuts, Corn, Wine, Soap, _&c._ a great part whereof goeth farther into the _Indies_.

The last day of _December_ we travell’d on, and came through well till’d fields about night into the town _Harpel_, which is pretty large, but very pitifully built, and miserably surrounded with walls, so that it might easily be taken without any great strength or loss; there we rested again the next day being the Sabbath, and on the same day fell New-Years-Day. In the mean time I understood that the _Turkish_ Sangiack did a few days ago condemn and put to execution eight great malefactors, which made it their business to rob and to commit murder up and down on the high-way, for there are a great many of these rogues in this province, chiefly on the borders of _Armenia_, which are very mountainous, and maketh travelling very dangerous. The relations and friends of these murderers and robbers did take this very ill, that the Sangiack should execute them, and were resolved to be revenged of him one way or other. In order thereunto they combined and agreed all together, and had every thing ready, and only staid for the word to fall upon him, which would have been done accordingly, if he had not had good intelligence of this their intention, wherefore he went away _incognito_ for _Constantinople_, to complain to the _Turkish_ Emperor of this their unjust proceedings, and what they must expect for this, they will know in a short time. This Sangiack, when he found necessity of making his escape, and found that he wanted money, which is very seldom, he took up from an _Armenian_ Merchant, that was very rich, and was arrived there to buy several merchandizes, chiefly Gauls, whereof grow many in these parts, 300 ducats, which put the Merchant into great danger; for when these rebellious people came to understand it, they took it very ill of him, and threaten’d him very much, so that he was forced to stay some days longer for more company, that so he might go the safer.

After we had joined him, we went from thence on the fifth of _January_ in a very handsome number, for the Merchant alone had about fifty camels and asses, which were only loaden with Gauls, with him, to carry to _Carahemit_, where he lived, and to send from thence to _Aleppo_, where they are bought by our Merchants, to be sent into our country. So we travell’d all day long and also half the night, without eating or drinking, very fast, and began to rest about midnight. After we had for the remaining part of the night hardly refreshed our beasts and ourselves with eating and drinking a little, we broke up again before day-light, to go on in our way. When we were gone a good way through fruitful and pleasant vallies, we came betimes to another river by _Ptolomy_ call’d _Caprus_, which although it is not very broad, yet it is very deep, so that we had much to do to get through, which I found not without a great detriment to my plants, which I carry’d on horse-back before me.

Soon after noon a great way off before us, appear’d a great market-town, _Carcuschey_, where we arrived by night, and fix’d our camp without and pretty near to it. This is quite inhabited by _Armenians_, which we could presently find by the alteration of the language and their habit. They received us very willingly, and let us want for nothing. After we had staid with them till night, and refresh’d ourselves and our beasts, we broke up again immediately and travell’d all night, which was so dark, that we heard several caravans that met us, but could not see them, much less know how strong they were, or from whence they came. At break of day we came to another much larger river, by the inhabitants call’d _Kling_, if I do not mistake, and by _Ptolomy_, _Licus_, which hindred us very much in our day’s journey; for the river being very broad, at least a long mile, it was very hard to hit exactly the right ford, and not without great danger, which the _Curters_ knew very well, so that we were also in great fear of them. But after some were found in our company that had often forded that river formerly, we ventured it, went in, and got over, thanks be to God, very safe, only one ass which went over below us, where the stream went stronger, was drown’d, so that we arriv’d very early on the seventh of _January_, to the _Tygris_ again, and went into the famous city _Mossel_, that lieth on this side of the river, over a bridge made of boats. This is situated in the country of the _Curters_, and so we were forced still to keep our interpreter. It belongeth to the _Turkish_ Emperor, as do all the rest hereabouts. There are some very good buildings and streets in it, and it is pretty large; but very ill provided with walls and ditches, as I did observe from the top of our camp which extended to it. Besides this, I also saw just without the town a little hill, that was almost quite dug through, and inhabited by poor people, where I saw them several times creep in and out as pismires in ant-hills. In this place and thereabouts stood formerly the potent town of _Nineveh_, built by _Ashur_, which was the metropolis of _Assyria_, under the Monarch of the first monarchy, to the time of _Sennacherib_ and his sons, and was about three days journey in length. So we read that the Prophet _Jonas_, when at the command of God, he preach’d repentance to them, did go into it one day’s journey, which the people did hearken willingly unto, and did amend their lives, but they did not long remain penitent, but turn’d to their former iniquity again, wherefore their destruction and ruin was prognosticated to them by the Prophets _Nahum_ and _Zephania_, and also by the pious _Tobias_, that did live there again, which did also not long after follow. Yet was it re-built again afterwards, and did suffer very much upon changes of governments, until at length _Tamerlane_ came and took it by storm, burnt it, and reduced it to that degree, that afterwards in the same place grew Beans and _Colocasia_, _&c._ So that at this time there is nothing of any antiquities to be seen as in old _Babylon_, save only the fort that lieth upon the hill, and some few villages, which as the inhabitants say, did also belong to it in former days. This town lieth on the confines of _Armenia_, in a large plain, where they sow the greatest part of their corn, on the other side of the river; for on this side in _Mesopotamia_ it is so sandy and dry, that you would think you were in the middle of the desarts of _Arabia_. Yet there is a very large deposition of merchandizes, because of the river; wherefore several goods and fruits are brought thither from the adjacent countries, both by land and water, to ship them for _Bagdat_. Among the rest I saw abundance of small and great Turpentine-nuts, by the inhabitants call’d, as above-said, _Bont-quiber_ and _Sougier_; and also another sort of Manna as big as a double fist, which is very common here, and is brought from _Armenia_, as they told me. It is of a brown colour, a great deal bigger and firmer, and not so sweet as that of _Calabria_, yet very good and pleasant to eat. Within it are several red grains, so small that one taketh no notice of them when one eats it. It looseneth the body very well, but not so much as ours, wherefore the inhabitants eat great pieces thereof in the morning, as the country-men on the mountains of _Algaw_ eat cheese. But whether the _Arabians_ make mention thereof, if it be not the _Manna Alhagiezi_, whereof _Avicenna_ in his second book, the second treatise, and the 758th chapter maketh mention, I know not neither what it is to be reputed. The town _Mossel_, is as abovesaid, for the greatest part inhabited by _Nestorians_, which pretend to be Christians, but in reality they are worse than any other nations whatsoever, for they do almost nothing else, but rob on the high-ways, and fall upon travellers and kill them: therefore being that the roads chiefly to _Zibin_ (to which we had five days journey, and for the most part through sandy wildernesses) are very dangerous, we staid some days longer, expecting more company that we might go the surer.

CHAP. X.

_Which way we went through ~Mesopotamia~ by the way of ~Zibin~ and ~Orpha~, to ~Bir~, not without a great deal of danger; and afterwards how we passed the great river ~Euphrates~, and came at last into ~Syria~ by ~Nisib~, to the famous town of ~Aleppo~._

After our journey had been deferr’d for four days, we broke up on the eleventh of _January_ several hundred strong, and went on for the whole day without eating, with all speed until the sun-set at night, when we encamp’d on an ascent near a small village, to keep our beasts and goods safe, and to refresh ourselves and them. We watch’d all night long, and went continually three and three together, round about our camp by turns.

The next day we proceeded on again in our journey with all speed, rather for a good fountain or spring’s sake, as they do in these countries in the vast desarts, than to reach a good inn, where we arrived late at night, and encamp’d near it, to stay all night to rest. A little after when we were at supper, some of the _Curters_ came to us into our camp, spoke to us kindly, and ask’d us whether we did want any thing that they could help us to, but we soon perceived them to be spies, that were sent by their companions, to see what strength we were of. But when they perceived that we were not pleased with them, they did not stay but went away, and we composed ourselves to rest, but kept a good guard as we had done the night before. About midnight when we were in our first sleep, our watch-men perceived a great number of the _Curters_ to approach, wherefore they awak’d us with a great shouting to alarm us the sooner, and to bring us into good order, and to frighten our enemies, and to drive them away. But they did not only not mind us, but made all haste they could up to us, and that so near that we could see them, although it was dark, before our camp, by their heads. But when they found us in a good order and condition to oppose them, and did hear that our gunners and archers, which were ready to let fly at them, call’d with a loud voice to them, _tahal, tahal Harami_, that is, come hither, come hither you thieves, _&c._ they halted for a little while and were so afraid of us, that they turn’d their backs and run away. Afterwards when we fear’d nor expected their assault any more, they came quickly again a second time, in a far greater number than before. They led before them one camel and several horses, which in the dark we could only discern by their heads looking against the sky, in their hands, without doubt, that we might look upon them as travellers, or else that we might not be able to discern their number. But notwithstanding all this their first assault was still in fresh memory, wherefore we did not tarry, but drew soon up in our former order again, wherein I was the left hand man in the first rank again, with my scymeter drawn, and had before armed my breast with several sheets of paper, that I had brought with me to dry my plants in, expecting their assault every moment. But when they made a halt again, fearing their skin as much as we did ours, and did neither shout nor move up towards us, one of ours provok’d them, and did shoot at the camel, and did hit it so that it gave a sign thereof, but the rest forbore to fire. So they staid a little while, and then went off a second time.

So we kept awake all the rest of the night, and kept a good watch, and went on our journey again early the next morning about break of the day; and came again to wide and dry heaths, where we saw neither men nor beasts, and so we went on till noon, where we encamp’d in a large place, which was surrounded with walls and ditches pretty well, just like unto a fortress, whereof there are several in these dangerous places to be seen. When we staid there, two _Curters_ came again to us into our camp, and spoke to us, pretending that they came to demand the toll that was due there, it being their place: But our Merchants soon perceived, that they were not in a right cause, wherefore they would allow them nothing, which put these two into such a passion, that they drew their swords, and would have at us; but our friends did not stay idle neither, but took their swords away, and laid on with dry blows at them, and so flung them out of our camp. After this hubbub was over we dined, and that the rather that we might not be too much weaken’d by our hard travelling, and so be the less able to resist these robbers, for want of strength if they should fall upon us, which we were not wont to do before night, chiefly in great desarts, for there we used to get up presently after midnight, and travel all day long with all speed without eating, which I had often experimented before; wherefore I used to provide myself always with bread, and when I had a mind to eat it, I did either stay behind or go before; for no body eats openly by the way in the sight of others, except he has a mind to run a hazard, because that most of them are very hungry, and so eager at it, that they will assault one another for it, and take it away from their very mouths. After we had refresh’d ourselves and fed our beasts, which useth to be done also but once a day, we broke up with our caravan, and went on again. We quickly saw some mountains before us, where, when we approach’d them towards the evening, there appear’d sometimes, on a high one, that before the rest lieth nearer to the plain, some of them, so that we might very well presume, that there was more of them behind in _Ambuscado_, which also proved very true: For no sooner were we pass’d it, but before we went up the hill, they came out from behind the mountain, in great troops on horseback, which immediately drew up into order in the fields, in two squadrons, three and three in a rank, to the number of about three hundred, almost as many as we were. They exercised their horses, which were very lank, very swiftly, turn’d sometimes on one, and then on the other hand, and come at length to us within a bow’s shot. They had most of them darts, which they play’d withal in their full speed, sometimes holding it downwards as if they would run through a deer, which was a pleasant but very dangerous sight to us. When they shew’d themselves so as if they would fall upon us instantly, we drew our caravan close together, in order to resist them. Wherefore we stood still, and tied our beasts together, and bound the fore-feet of each of them, that they could not stir; behind them stood our mockery, with their bows, and all those that were not well provided with arms and horses, either to shoot at the enemy, or else in case of necessity, if they should come too near us, to sally out, and cut off their horses with our scymeters. Near unto us our horses were drawn up into a troop, ready for their assault, to venture their success. After a whole hours delay we sent at length two of our company to them, and they sent also two of theirs to meet them to parley together; but which way they made up an agreement I know not, but they prevailed so much with them, that soon after they left us, and rode away, and we went on in our journey. After this we kept our caravan, (that is so much to say as a great many people, with loaden camels, asses, and horses) in far better order than we had done before, and came that same day a good way, to a small village, where we encamped and stay’d all night. We found no wood thereabouts, wherefore we made shift with bread instead of other victuals, and were very glad, we had it. In the mean time the inhabitants came to us, to gather the dung of our beasts as they do in several other places, chiefly in the desarts of _Arabia_, to burn it instead of wood, which they do after the following manner.

They make in their tents or houses a hole about a foot and half deep, wherein they put their earthen pipkins or pots, with the meat in them closed up, so that they are in the half above the middle, three fourth parts thereof they lay about with stones, and the fourth part is left open, through which they fling in their dry’d dung, and also sometimes small twigs and straws, when they can have them, which burn immediately and give so great a heat, that the pot groweth so hot as if it stood in the middle of a lighted coal-heap, so that they boil their meat with a little fire, quicker than we do ours with a great one on our hearths; so that these poor people must make very hard shift, and do sometimes as the _Israelites_ did in the siege of _Jerusalem_, where they also in their greatest necessity did boil their meat with dung of men and beasts, as you may read in the 4th chapter of _Ezekiel_. This night, and several others before, we passed more with watching than with sleeping, so that sometimes we contemplated the constellations of the skies, which are very much observed by these nations, but chiefly by the _Arabians_, which lodge always in the open air, and have no shelter, so that by the stars they know the hour of the night, and when it is time for them to break up. They care not for beds, but rather have cloaks or tapestry wherein they wrap themselves up and keep themselves warm, so that no frost nor rain, nor dew can hurt them.

The next morning we broke up (that we might not expose ourselves any farther) only after day-light, and travelled all day long without any molestation or hinderance a long way after several rough mountains: and also the next day through sandy desarts, which were deep and hindred our going on very much. When it began to be night, our beasts were almost ready to lie down under their burthens in the sand, which was very tiresome to us, and that the rather, because we saw the town _Zibin_ far off before us, at four miles distance, but at length we got out of this bad road, into green meadows, to very clear springs, which run over in several places to water them: so that we began to make more speed, and came the same night yet very late into the town. It is a fine place subject unto the _Turkish_ Emperor not very big, lying on ascent, very well surrounded and fortified with walls and ditches. It is full of conduits or springs, but chiefly in the great _Camp_, where we rested for five days to stay for more company. There live abundance of _Armenians_ in it, for it lieth in the confines of the greater _Armenia_, and so we were no more in so great danger as we were in the country of the _Curters_. During my staying there, the abovementioned rich _Armenian_ Merchant, and also an eminent _Turkish_ gentleman (which were very kind to me upon the road) desired me several times (having heard from the _Jews_ that I was a Physician) that I would be pleased to go along with them to _Carahemit_, which town was four days distant at the other side of the _Tygris_, to cure some of their relations that were not well, they proffered me good entertainment, and to recommend me to the young Bashaw son of _Mahomet_ Bashaw, who was also sick at that time, and to bring me into good business; which I would have done with all my heart, and nothing could have pleased me better, than to have served the _Armenian_ for his kindness. Yet because I was sent for to come to _Aleppo_, and could not but be as good as my word, wherein I had also no small interest, I was obliged to leave that journey, and to strive with all speed and diligence to get thither. Now as this Bashaw is among the rest (except the Visir-Bashaws, whereof there are four or five, which are always at court about the _Turkish_ Emperor, as being his Privy Council) the chiefest in _Turky_, so he hath larger and more fruitful territories than he of _Bagdet_, or any other, to govern, _viz._ _Assyria_, _Mesopotamia_, and a large part of the greater _Armenia_, and of the province of the _Curters_, _&c._ all which border upon the dominions of the Sophi King of _Persia_.

After we had refreshed our selves during this time, very well, and other companies had joined us, we broke up on the 20th towards night, and went away. By the way we saw several plough’d fields and villages, and we could speak better with the people, for they understood the _Armenian_, _Turkish_, or _Arabian_ languages, which are generally used in these countries. So our travels went on with great speed, so that we reached on the 21st late, the town of _Hochan_, where the _Jews_ rested and kept their Sabbath. Here we received the news that _Solyman_ the _Turkish_ Emperor was deceased.

The 23d we got up early again, and went the next way to _Orpha_, another town, to which we had five days journey. From thence, the nearer we came to the mount _Tauri_, which separateth _Armenia_ from _Mesopotamia_, towards the south, the worse grew the roads, which we found very sufficiently the next day, for when we came farther into the mountains, the ways were so full of stones that we were hindered very much. Going thus on, after it had snowed a little, which I have never seen but twice in these countries, it happened, that one of the _Jews_ horses which was empty, was frightened at something, and flung itself over and over. The _Jew_ hearing this noise, looked back, and seeing me stand by it, he grew angry with me, as if I had done it, and began to handle his bow and arrows to shoot at me, when I found him in earnest, and remembered how I lost my wine in the ship, when we went down the river, I did not delay, but went to hinder him, took him by his leg, and flung him off his horse, before he could take his aim at me; so we fell a boxing one another so long, until at length I tripped up his heels. When the other two saw that we spoiled thus the figure of the snow, and that I was too hard for him, and had given him several hard blows, they came immediately to separate us, and to make peace again between us; I seeing that they did not come to wrong me, and also considering that we were to travel together still farther, took their council, and was friends with him again, and so we went on in our way. At night we came to another village again, in a narrow valley lying at the bottom of a great ascent, near which we found a great stable wherein we went; this was cut quite into the hill, and so was that wherein we loged the night before, so that you could see nothing of if, but only the entrance, for they are commonly so in these hilly countries under ground, that the caravans may safely rest there and defend themselves from cold in the winter. This stable (being 25 paces long and 20 broad, and all through equally high) was cut out of a rock. About midnight, when we were in our first sleep, one of the Grand Signior’s Chiaus, or Chamber messengers, knocked at the door of the stable, who was come back from _Bagdet_ in six days to this place, to look about for some fresh horses, because he had tired his own, and could not have others by the way, as in our country where posts are ordered. So he went in, took away from one Mockeri or Carrier, three pack horses, and two more from the _Jew_, that I had contention with before, for these messengers of the chamber have great privileges, and in case of necessity, where-ever they see horses in city or country, they may take them leaving theirs in the room thereof: They value one no more than another, except Merchants and strangers, whom they excuse before others to incourage trade; those that they come to, must deliver up their horses without any reluctancy, except they have a mind to be soundly bang’d, as one of our friends was that did not open the gates immediately, or else to fare worse. When this Chiaus believed he had got very good horses, he soon found his mistake, for the _Jew_’s horses had galled backs, wherefore he let him have them again for a small recompence, which was a child’s coat made of delicate _Indian_ stuff. When our journey was thus stopp’d, chiefly because of the Mockeri, or Carrier, until he could procure himself other horses in the room thereof, at least for that day; we rose the earlier the next day, and traversed several rough mountains, and went through narrow vallies that day, until at night we came to a village inhabited by _Armenians_. These are good hearted Christians, which have great compassion on their fellow Christians, and love to entertain and to be kind to strangers, which I have very often experienced, but chiefly in this village, where one of the _Armenians_ took me and the _Jews_ into his house, and would fain have kept us also the next day. Being at leisure, I would fain have conferred and discoursed with him concerning our Christian faith, and so was he willing; but being that we could not understand one another, and the _Jews_ were in this case by no means proper interpreters, we were forced to have patience by silence, and to look at one another. About that time they kept Lent, which I could perceive by their small sort of diet, for they did eat nothing but leguminous food and bread and water. After he had set before us some boiled eggs at night, and I being hungry, fell on them, not imagining that they kept such strictness and difference in their diet, he admired that I did not refuse to eat the eggs, and asked me by one of the _Jews_, whether I did not know that it was not allowed to Christians to eat eggs and the like victuals in Lent; at this I would fain have answered him, that it became Christians to keep Lent rather with soberness and abstinency, than with distinctions and differences of foods. But I not understanding the language, only answered him briefly, that our Lent was not yet begun, nor would until three weeks hence begin, which did content him presently.

The 28th we went on our journey again, and came right among the high mountains, which were very rough, and full of bushes; we got out of them before night, and lodged our selves in the next village, which lieth on an ascent in the plain, where we also staid the next day being the Sabbath. By the way, when the _Jews_ were in fear of having their horses taken away, as was done some days before, they often gave them to me to lead them, as if they were mine, hoping to carry them off the easier, so that although they were my guides, yet I was their safe-guard.