Chapter XI: Front Matter (11)

But when they would not acknowledge his merciful visitation, nor receive his messengers, but did rather abuse, ridicule, and kill them, rejected the Lord of Glory himself, and adhered to, and adored strange Gods and served them; God did reject and disperse them among the heathens, burnt and destroyed their city and temple, and reduced their fruitful country into barren desarts and a desolate wilderness, and so the punishment came upon them, which the holy Prophet _Esaiah_ did foretel them in the thirteenth chapter, and ninth verse, saying, _Behold the day of the Lord cometh, cruel both with wrath and fierce anger, to lay the land desolate; and he shall destroy the sinners thereof out of it_. And further in the twenty-fifth chapter, and second verse, _Thou hast made of a city a heap; of a defenced city a ruin; a place of strangers to be no city, it shall never be built_. And _Daniel_ also maketh mention of this in his ninth chapter, _&c._ This ought to serve us and all men as an example of the fervent anger of God, to be a warning to us for ever. For if of the glorious city of _Jerusalem_, which God had chosen before others, and of it’s vast buildings that made her famous before her desolation, there is at this day nothing at all to be seen, so that one might very well doubt whether it ever stood there, were it not for some holy places and it’s situation, that give us demonstration thereof. If I say this worldly _Jerusalem_, because of it’s unbelieving inhabitants, that would not acknowledge the Blessed _Messias_, nor adhere to his doctrine to their salvation, is quite rooted out; and instead thereof, the way of the heavenly _Jerusalem_ opened to us heathens by the holy apostles: _How shall we escape if we neglect so great salvation?_ This way to our Lord _Christ_, hath for many years past been shewed us sincerely by the ministers of the holy word of God, but we do not only not much care for it, but seek rather other by-ways, that lead us to idolatry, sin and vices, nay, to our utter ruin. Wherefore it is to be feared, that if we do not repent in time, and return to God again, that he will come upon us with his wrath (as he hath already begun) and deliver us up into the hands of our adversaries, that we may fall by their swords (as _Ezekiel_ doth threaten us in his thirty-ninth chapter) and to punish us according to the deserts of our sins. Wherefore we ought to lay to heart the terrible example of the _Jews_, and turn from our evil ways, that we may avoid the punishments that befel them. We see that those who were formerly the people of God, are now come to be so blind, and full of errors, and of so depraved a life, that there is hardly any like them to be found even among the infidels and impious. Wherefore they are by all men despised and hated, chiefly by the _Turks_ (who hate them more than any other nation) so that they would not let them live among them, if the _Turkish_ Emperor had not for a great sum of money given them a peculiar freedom. And besides all this, now-a-days, their towns and countries are inhabited by _Turks_, _Moors_, and _Arabians_, that do not love to till or cultivate the ground, but will rather starve than take pains to get a good livelihood by their hand-labour. And although the country about _Jerusalem_ is very rocky, rough, stony, and ill managed, yet notwithstanding they will not endeavour to mend and improve it, but find out the fruitful lands that are here and there, and over-run the country like grashoppers, so that you may observe it yearly to decay more and more. Seeing then that there is but little tillage about the city, therefore the product of the earth there is but very small, so that they must have almost all necessaries brought them from other places.

The town of _Jerusalem_ which is still pretty large; but very ill built, hath within it’s wall, which the _Turkish_ Emperor caused to be built about twenty years ago, large places that lie desolated, and are so full of stones and rocks, that one can hardly walk in them. The gardens (even those that are within the city, and are but ill managed) are surrounded with mud walls, not above four foot high, so that one may climb over them without any difficulty. These are washed down again by rain in a very little time, so that they want mending continually.

Their habitations are also little and low, have clay walls, and many of them are decayed, some lie quite in a heap. The churches of the two Apostles, that of St _John_ and St _Peter_, are in the same condition, as also the prison where St _Peter_ was kept, the habitation of _Veronica_, which the Cordeliers shew us for them, and a great many places more. In some streets chiefly near to their _Batzar_, or exchange, are very old vaults, part whereof are decayed and broken, part filled up with dust, which runs out into the streets; wherefore (chiefly in the summer) the dust lieth so thick in them, that you may see every step in it, as in snow or sand.

All which sheweth, that the _Turks_ destroy or ruin more than they build; wherefore they are deservedly called _Turks_, that is to say, _destroyers_. The present town, as to the extent of it’s walls, is not much less than the old one was, wherefore one should admire, considering how it is built now, how it was possible it should hold so many people as it is said were in it at the time of it’s desolation, _viz._ a million of men, or as _Josephus_ and _Eusebius_ say, three millions. _Jerusalem_ was formerly surrounded with very steep cliffs, deep ditches and vallies, chiefly on three sides towards the south, east and west, so that one could not easily get up to it but only on the north side, where the town was low, lying in a plain; therefore did _Titus_ first attack it in a place near the village called _Scapas_, seven miles distant from it, and afterward advanced and took it; which the holy Prophet _Jeremiah_ did foretel many years before, in the first chapter and twelfth verse, saying, _Out of the north an evil shall break forth upon all the inhabitants of the land_.

These ditches and vallies are now quite filled up with the ruins of the broken walls and buildings, so that one may go into the town, as into an open village, without any hinderance or pain. But when the Grand Signior, after he had taken it, saw that the town was open, and that the Christian Pilgrims came thither in great numbers from all places and countries, he feared that they might make themselves masters of it again, as they had done some years agone, wherefore he ordered it to be surrounded again with new walls, which although they are very high, yet they are so thin and slight, that they are not able to withstand the least violence. But as the town was anciently built four square, so it is now built more round, chiefly towards mount _Calvaria_, which formerly was without the town, but now is walled in; so that you may still see two corners, one whereof is towards _Galilee_, where the gate of that corner is which is still open, and almost one of the handsomest, through which you go to _Nazareth_, distant three days journey; as also to _Cæsarea Philippi_, which is now called _Balbec_, where still are to be seen some very fine antiquities; and also towards _Damascus_, which is six days journey distant from _Jerusalem_, and from thence six days journey more to _Aleppo_, the greatest town for trade in all _Syria_. _Jeremiah_ maketh mention of this gate in his 31st chapter and the 38th verse. _Behold the days come saith the Lord, that the city shall be built to the Lord, from the town of Hananeel unto the gate of the corner._ And also _Zacharias_, in his 14th chapter, and in the 2d book of _Chronicles_, the 26th chapter, and 9th verse: It is said _Uzzia_ built towers in _Jerusalem_ at the corner gate, and at the valley gate, _&c._ The second corner mount _Zion_ maketh, where it doth end toward the south, whereon, as also on the mount _Moria_, the city is rising towards the north. The old city had twelve gates, as you read in the _Revelation_. The 1st, the _Fish-gate_, which was also called the gate of _Hebron_, because the road of _Hebron_ went through it, which is about seven or eight hours walking distant from it. 2. The _Old-Gate_. 3. The _Prison Gate_, whereof _Nehemiah_ maketh mention in his 12th chapter, through which our Saviour Christ carried his cross. 4. _Rayn-Gate._ 5. The Gate of _Ephraim_, before which St _Stephen_ was stoned to death, as you may read in the 2d book of the _Ecclesiastical History_ in the 1st chapter. 6. The Gate of _Benjamin_, where the holy Prophet _Jeremiah_ was taken and imprisoned, as he saith himself in the 37th chapter. 7. _Corner-Gate._ 8. _Horse-Gate._ 9. _Valley-Gate_, thro’ which they went into the valley of _Josaphat_. 10. _Dung-Gate_, through which the water carried out all the soil into the valley of _Josaphat_; and about this river is still to this day a great stink. 11. _Sheep-Gate._ 12. _Fountain-Gate_, which is now walled up. The Prophet _Nehemiah_ maketh mention of them in his 3d, 8th, and 12th chapter, so that it is not needful to say any more. These gates are so mightily decayed, that there is not to be seen the least of the old buildings. The _Turks_ have instead of them, built others in the new raised wall, but yet not half so many in number, whereof some (according as the town is inlarged in some places, and contracted in others) are displaced; others are erected again in the same places, according to the old streets, _viz._ 1. The _Fish-Gate_, which is still standing towards the west behind mount _Sion_, and over-against mount _Gihon_, as you may conclude out of the words of the 2d book of _Chronicles_ in the 33d chapter and 14th verse. _Manasses_ built a wall without the city of _David_, on the west side of _Gihon_, in the valley, even to the entring in at the _Fish-Gate_. This gate hath it’s name, because they brought many fishes from the sea side through this gate into the city. So is also still standing, on the outside of the valley _Tiropæon_(which distinguished the two mounts, _Sion_, and the temple mount called _Moriah_) the gate of the fountain, which hath it’s name because it leadeth towards the fountain of _Siloah_, which _Nehemiah_ his 2d chapter, verse 14. calleth the _King’s Pool_. Through this was our dear Lord _Christ_, the true promised _Siloah_, brought a prisoner bound from the mount of _Olives_ over the brook _Kidron_, into the house of _Hannas_ and _Caiphas_ in the upper town, as we read in the 12th chapter, verse 37, that by the _Fountain-Gate_ they went up to the city of _David_. The same way also the two disciples, _Peter_ and _John_, were sent to bespeak the paschal lamb by _Christ_, where they met the man with the pitcher of water.

The _Sheep_, or _Beast-Gate_, is also still standing by _Moriah_, the mountain of the temple, which the _Turks_ have taken to themselves, and have built on it a _Turkish_ mosque, or temple, because that God Almighty hath done many and great miracles on this mount; and besides _Mahomet_ did find himself again on this mount, after he had been carried up (as his lying writings tell us) through the heavens before God by the angel _Gabriel_. Wherefore they take this mount to be holy, so that none that is not circumcised and so unclean, dare approach or come near it, nor take the nearest way without over the height of the mount as _Nehemiah_ did, as you may see in the before quoted place; so that the Christians must take a farther way about, and from the gate _Siloah_, go below through the valley of the brook _Cedron_, between this and the mount of _Olives_ to the _Beast-Gate_, which hath it’s name because the beasts that were to be offerr’d in the temple were driven through it.

Near the gate you see still the sheep pond, which is large and deep, yet hath but little water in it, wherein the _Nathineens_ used to wash the beasts, and then to give them to the priests. And also immediately within towards the north, a conduit, which was the pool by St _John_ the Evangelist (in the 2d verse of his 5th chapter) called _Bathesda_, erected by King _Ezechia_; _that had five porches, wherein lay a great multitude of impotent folk, that waited for the moving of the water_. Through this gate is the straight way over the brook _Cedron_, by the mount of _Olives_ toward _Bethania_, down to _Jericho_ on the river _Jordan_, into the valley of _Josaphat_, wherefore this also, being nearer now in these days, is called the _Valley-Gate_.

There is also still the _Corner-Gate_ in it’s old place, where the north and east walls meet on large and high rocks, and is called still by some the gate of _Napthali_.

This I thought convenient to say of the city of _Jerusalem_ in the general of it’s buildings, fruitfulness, and adjacent countries; what famous and holy places are within and without the city, thereof I intend to treat in particular.

CHAP. IV.

_Of Mount ~Sion~, and it’s Holy Places._

Mount _Sion_, very famous in holy Scripture, hath round about it steep sides, high rocks, deep ditches and vallies, so that it is not easy to climb up to it, only on one side towards the north, where it buts upon the lower town, so that the castle and town of _David_ situated on it, was very strong, and almost invincible, as you may read in the 48th Psalm, verse 2. _The joy of the whole earth is mount Sion, on the sides of the north, the city of the great King. God is known in her places for a refuge, for the Kings were assembled_, &c. Seeing then that the castle, and the upper town _Millo_ was so well fortified with towers and walls, that it was not easily to be taken, the _Jebusites_, after that _Canaan_ the whole Land of Promise, together with the town of _Jerusalem_ was taken, did defend themselves in it against the whole force of _Israel_ for a long time, although they often attempted to take it, and called the town of _Jerusalem_ after their name _Jebus_, until the kingly Prophet _David_ came, who took it by force; and after he had rebuilt the upper town, and joined the castle with it into one building, and surrounded it with walls, he called it after his own name, The city of _David_, and kept his court there, and gave also lodgings to his hero’s and officers, whereof _Uriah_ was one, who had his lodgings near to the King’s palace, wherein the King walking on the roof of his house, saw the fair _Bathsheba_ his wife, and committed adultery with her.

These their habitations, as they are still built in these days, have instead of thatch or tiles, plaistered roofs, so that one may walk on them, as you may see here, that King _David_ walked on it. And also in the second chapter of the book of _Joshua_, where is said, That when the two spies sent into the Land of Promise to _Jericho_, came into _Rahab_’s house, and the King sent to search after them, they went at her request up to the roof of the house, where she hid them with the stalks of flax, which she had laid in order upon the roof. But seeing there is nothing so strong in this world that is not transitory, therefore is also this worldly mount _Zion_, together with it’s strong building and fortification (which was rather a type of the true rock in _Zion_, _Christ_ our Lord, and his heavenly kingdom and holy church that was built thereon) so ruined and desolated, that the greatest and highest part thereof before the town, except a _Turkish_ mosque, some tile houses and a few acres of it, lieth quite a desart, covered with rocks and stones. So it is come to pass, what _Micah_ in his third chapter and the twelfth verse predicted: ‘Therefore shall _Zion_ for your sake be plowed as a field, and _Jerusalem_ shall become heaps, and the mountain of the house, as the high places of the forest.’ And _Jeremiah_ in his _Lamentations_, chap. 5. verse 18. saith, ‘The mountain of _Zion_ which is desolate, the foxes walk upon it.’ And _Isaiah_ in his thirty-second chapter, verse 14. ‘The palaces shall be forsaken, the multitude of the city shall be left, the forts and towns shall be dens for ever, a joy of wild asses, a pasture of flocks.’

The great castle of the _Turks_ is situated at the top of the inward part of the mount, towards the west side near the _Fish-Gate_, which is also newly built, and very well surrounded with walls and ditches; under the gate are several great guns to frighten the Christians that come thither in great flocks, chiefly against great feasts from all nations, _Armenians_, _Georgians_, _Abyssins_, _Latinists_, &c. for they fear that else the town might be taken from them again.

Within the fort near the _Fish-Gate_, is still a strong high tower, built up with great free-stone, which is quite black through age; wherefore some say, that it did anciently belong to the fort, and was built by one of the Kings of _Juda_.

So much I thought convenient to mention of mount _Zion_, concerning other famous places that are to be seen upon and about it, I will only mention the chiefest thereof.

First, As you go out of the _New-Gate_ of mount _Zion_, there is a long street wherein on the left hand is an ancient church, of the holy Apostle _James_ the Greater, brother of _John_, which _Helena_ the mother of _Constantine_ the Emperor, as also many more did build on the market place of the upper city where he was beheaded. The _Armenians_ that have possession thereof, did conduct us into it, shewed us the building, and the place where the holy Apostle was beheaded with the sword (as you read in the _Acts of the Apostles_, the twelfth chapter) by order of _Herod Agrippa_, to whom he was delivered out of spite, as a seditious person, by the High Priest _Abiathar_.

Then we came to the place of the habitation of _Hannas_, whereto _Christ_ our Lord was first of all brought a prisoner and bound, or fetter’d, wherein was nothing observable, only a large court, and in it an old chapel, called the _Angels_, which we soon left, and went out of the gate of mount _Zion_ to the habitation of _Caiaphas_, where we saw an orange tree planted in the place where the holy apostle _Peter_ did warm himself when he denied our Saviour the third time; farther within a chapel, called St _Salvators_, where, in former ages was the place of the High Priest, where _Christ_ was severely accused by _Caiaphas_, and by his servants mocked, spit upon, and beaten; wherein is an altar, whereon the great stone of the grave still lieth, that stopped the door of the sepulchre, which is very like unto the rock of the grave in it’s breaking. That the habitation of the High Priest was in the upper city, _Josephus_ does testify in the seventeenth chapter of his second book of the _Desolation_ of _Jerusalem_, where he saith thus: ‘When the rebellious _Jews_, that had the lower town in possession with the temple, did undertake to possess themselves also of the upper town, they did assault it with all might and power, and at last take it; then they drove out the soldiers, which had the chief priests and men in power with them, out of the upper town, set the habitation of _Ananias_ the High Priest on fire and burnt it.’

Before this, on the top of the mount, stands on the plain a large church, which the _Franciscan_ monks had not long ago in possession, and lived in it, wherefore their father did call himself a Guardian of the holy mount _Zion_. But after that the _Turks_ did about twenty years agon possess themselves of it, and kept it to themselves, and made a _Mahometan_ mosque of it; the monks were forced to fly, and take the habitation where they now live instead thereof.

Of this church or mosque, we saw only the outside of the habitation of _Caiaphas_, for no Christian is allowed to go into it. It was built many years agone by _Helena_, mother of _Constantine_ the Emperor, as _Nicephorus_ testifieth in the thirtieth chapter of his eighth book; wherein is also included the habitation the Disciples were lock’d up in for fear of the _Jews_; and also the paved dining room, or hall, wherein _Christ_ with his Disciples did eat the Passover; where he also washed their feet, and sent the Holy Ghost after his ascension to them; where also _James_[5] the _Lesser_ was elected Overseer, and first Bishop of _Jerusalem_. In this temple, which is above a thousand paces distant from _Golgotha_, or the place of a skull, was, for some time kept the stone pillar, whereto _Christ_ our Lord and Saviour was tied and whipped. Near unto this, in the place of the palace of _Caiaphas_, the same Queen _Helena_ ordered a church to be built for the holy Apostle _Peter_, and many more, whereof mention is made at large in the above quoted place.

This mount extendeth itself towards the south, out before the city, and hath on the other side where it is highest, other higher ones about it, distinguished with ditches and vallies, viz. towards the west mount _Gihon_, at the bottom whereof _Solomon_ was anointed King by the Priest _Zadock_ and the Prophet _Nathan_, as we read in the first chapter of the first book of _Kings_; upon this, at the top towards the road of _Bethlehem_, lieth the field of blood, in their language called _Hakeldemas_, that was bought for thirty silver pieces to bury the pilgrims there, where you see still to this day here and there large and deep holes, and one among the rest very big, wherein are still to be seen several whole bodies lying by one another.

A deep valley separates this mount from mount _Zion_, which beginneth at the _Fish-Gate_, and goeth down to the brook _Cedron_; in it is a conduit by the upper pool called _Asuia_ in the third chapter of _Nehemiah_, which is pretty large, yet without any water, which receiveth it’s water from the high spring of _Gihon_, this was covered by King _Hezekias_, and laid down to the town of _David_, as we read in the second book of _Chronicles_, chap. 32. The holy Prophet _Isaiah_, chap. 7. verse 3. mentioneth it, when the Lord saith to him; ‘Go forth now to meet _Ahaz_, thou and _Shearjashub_ thy son, at the end of the conduit of the upper pool, in the path of the fullers field, _&c._’ And in the fourth book of _Kings_, in the eighteenth chapter, verse seventeen: ‘The King of _Assyria_ sent a great host against _Jerusalem_, and when they were come up, they came and stood by the conduit of the upper pool, which is in the high way of the Fullers field.’

Before mount _Zion_, towards the south, at the other side of the rivulet _Kidron_, lieth the mount of _Transgression_, in the fourth book of _Kings_, chap. 23. called _Mashith_; between this and mount _Olivet_ is a valley, through which goeth down the road by _Bethania_ to _Jericho_, &c. This is higher and steeper than any hereabout. There you see still some old walls of the habitation wherein the concubines of _Solomon_ did live, after whom the King ran in his old age; and they did so possess him, that they turned his heart from God Almighty after their gods, and so he did that that did not please the Lord God, as you may read in the first book of _Kings_, chap. 11. verse 4.

Underneath the mount was the valley _Benhinnom_, wherein the Kings of _Jerusalem_ did build a temple to the idol _Moloch_, and did worship him, _viz._ _Solomon_, _Ahaz_, _Manasseh_, &c. whereof we read in several places in the holy Scripture, _Levit._ 18. 21. ‘Thou shalt not let any of thy seed pass through the fire to _Moloch_.’ And also _Jerem._ 7. 30. ‘And they have set their abominations in the house which is called by my name to pollute it. And they have built the high places of _Tophet_, which is in the valley of the son of _Hinnom_, to burn their sons and their daughters in the fire, which I commanded them not, neither came it into my heart, therefore behold, the days come saith the Lord, that it shall no more be called _Tophet_, nor the valley of the son of _Hinnom_, but the valley of slaughter; for they shall bury in _Tophet_ till there be no place.’ And also 2 _Chron._ 18. 2. ‘_Ahaz_ made molten images for _Baalim_, and burnt incense in the valley of the son of _Hinnom_, and burnt his children in the fire after the abominations of the heathen.’ The holy Prophet _Amos_ doth also make mention of these abominable idolatries in his fifth chapter; which St _Luke_ in the seventh chapter, verse the forty third, of the _Acts_ doth thus explain: ‘Ye took up the tabernacle of _Moloch_, and the star of your god _Remphan_, _&c._’ which the holy Prophet calleth _Sicchuth_ and _Chiun_: But the heathen called them _Jupiter_ and _Saturn_, the Devourer of children, and so he is also painted. This statue was hollow within, of cast brass, whereinto they did put the children, and burnt them alive, and did believe they served God in it, as _Abraham_ when he would sacrifice his son _Isaac_; they had also kettle drums and other musical instruments which they played on, that the parents might not hear their children cry; wherefore _Christ_ gave unto hell itself, and it’s perpetual flames, the name of the valley _Benhinnom_, calling it _Gehenna_; to give us warning and exhortation, that we hate false and abominable idolatries, introduced contrary to his command, worse than the devil himself.

Besides this, there is little else seen hereabout, only above on the steepest and highest part of the mount many little tents and habitations, as if they hung at it, which in these times are not inhabited either by _Turks_ or _Moors_; in the valley you see the rivulet _Kidron_, where over they brought our Lord Christ bound as a prisoner, from mount _Olivet_; this proceedeth only from rain water near to the place _Gethsemane_, and runs without by the town from south to west. Beside this brook did King _Asa_ burn the images of _Priapus_ as _Josias_ and _Hezekiah_ the idols of _Baal_, all incenses and uncleannesses that are found in the temple of the Lord.

Farther towards the east you see from the top of mount _Zion_ the fountain and pool of _Siloah_ below in the valley, call’d by _Josephus_ _Tiropæon_, which divideth this and the temple mount, and becometh to be very narrow between them, and extendeth itself from the rivulet _Kidron_ towards the north to the place of skulls, where it groweth so large again, that the lower town of _Jerusalem_, (by _Isaiah_ in his tenth, and _Zachariah_ in his ninth chapter, call’d _The Daughter of Zion and Jerusalem_) was situated therein. Out of which near to the gate of the fountain of _Siloah_, which is now wall’d up, the way goeth up to the gate of _Zion_ into the upper town, thro’ which two our Lord Christ was brought a prisoner to the houses of _Hannas_ and _Caiphas_.

This valley hath been since the desolation so fill’d up, that no depth at all appeareth in our days; but only without the fountain-gate by the fountain _Siloah_, that is very rich of water, where is still the pool wherein the blind man wash’d his eyes, that were anointed with clay and spittle, St _John_ ix. 6. according to the command of our Lord, and did see.

Just by it are still the two hills whereof _Josephus_ maketh mention, with a very steep cliff, very rocky on both sides, one whereof towards the east, call’d the rock of the pidgeons, hath a great cave, out of which the fountain springs, and runs off immediately below through a channel, that goeth so strait and smooth through the rock, as if it had been made on purpose.

Near to the fountain and gate of _Siloah_, stood the tower of _Siloah_, that killed eighteen men, as we read in St _Luke_, chap. xiii.

Without between the fountain and stream of _Kidron_, they shew a great mulberry-tree, fenced in below; this stands in the place where the holy Prophet _Isaias_ was buried, whom the King _Manasse_ ordered to be cut in pieces with a wooden saw, as being an Heretick.

This may suffice of mount _Zion_, it’s situation and some adjacent places.

As we went about, and came to one of the places, the Monks did shew the Pilgrims in each of them, the number of the years for the pardons laid there by his Holiness, as in some seven years and seven indulgences; but in some others, as in the place where the Holy Ghost was sent, where Christ did eat the Passover with his disciples, and wash’d their feet, and where he at several times appeared when the doors were shut; and where also, as _Nicephorus_ saith, the Virgin Mary, after the resurrection of Christ her dear child, did dwell for fourteen years, _&c._ full absolution and indulgences from all sins and facts for ever.

Now that all those that come there, may receive it more worthily, the monks exhort them to kneel down before every of such places, and to pray the Lord’s Prayer and Ave Maria with devotion; and that when they have done so, they need not to doubt, but that they have fully received the absolution that was given for that place by his Holiness. After they had thus pray’d in several places, some of our company rejoiced mightily, and confessed, that after it they were holy, and so innocent, that if they should die then, they were secure, that their soul should go immediately out of their mouth into heaven, and eternal life. To this I answer’d them: That I expected remission of sin no other ways but only in the name and for the merits, of our Lord Jesus Christ; and that I had not undertaken this pilgrimage as they did, to get any thing by it as by a good work; nor to visit stone and wood to obtain indulgence; or with opinion to come here nearer to Christ; because all these things are directly contrary to Scripture. As the Lord himself saith: ‘Time will come that you shall neither on this mount nor at Jerusalem worship the Father.’ And he also forewarneth us of those that say: ‘Lo Christ is here, Christ is there, he is in the desarts, he is in the chamber;’ that we should not believe them, nor go out, but rather confide on his promise, that he will be with us, to the end of the world; and where two or three are met together in his name that he will be in the middle of them. Wherefore our dear Lord Christ hath no need, because he is himself present with them that believe in him, of any Vicegerent, that should on earth usurp such power, and take such honour and glory to himself, as to give indulgence at his pleasure; because all these things belong only to God. When I saw, that they did not much mind this my discourse, I let them alone in their opinions, but yet I saw here and there all these places, and considered by myself what our Lord Christ had, by his bitter sufferings and death, by his glorious resurrection and ascension, procured us from his Heavenly Father. When the Pilgrims came to one of the above-mention’d places of mount _Zion_, and had said their prayers, they went into it, and contemplated it, fell down again before it, and kissed it with great submission and devotion; pull’d out several pieces, _viz._ beads and rosaries turned of the wood of the trees of the mount of Olives, some wrought points, laces, _&c._ tied together in bundles, to touch the holy place with it; they also knock’d off in some places (where they might) some small pieces, to take them along with them as consecrated sanctuaries, to distribute them among their friends at their return.

All the while that they were thus busy, I consider’d rather standing behind, what our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ had suffered for us in these places, how he had humbled himself, and came down to us miserable sinners, to help us, and to extol us that were fall’n, and to make us free of the heavy burthen of our sins; how he was led before the seat of judicature of _Caiphas_, that we might not be led before the severe Judgment-seat of the Almighty God; that he suffer’d himself to be led captive and bound, to deliver us from the bands of the devil and death, and to save us from the jaws of hell; and as _Esaias_ saith in his fifty third chapter vers. 5. ‘He was wounded for our transgressions, he was bruised for our iniquities, the chastisement of our peace was upon him, and with his stripes we are heal’d.’ But that our dear Lord Christ was delivered to the high Priest, and Scribes, _&c._ for our sakes, and that he was obedient to his Heavenly Father, unto death, even the death of the cross, to deliver us from the curse of God and eternal death. And to make us certain, that he had procured these his unspeakable benefits and heavenly treasures for us, and that we really should be partakers thereof; before his passion he did institute his holy Supper upon the mount, in the large upper room, wherein he doth not only communicate them to us, but giveth us also (if we receive the holy broken bread, and the blessed cup with true faith according to the institution) his real body and blood, to feed us to eternal life; where we then shall sit with our Lord Christ, and all the elected ones (after this life) as coheirs in the high upper room of his Heavenly Father, at his table, to eat and drink it with him anew. And that we might heartily comfort ourselves with these his unspeakable benefits, he also, after his ascension, sent us on the day of Pentecost his Holy Ghost, the Spirit of Truth, to incline our hearts, to believe steadfastly all that he hath promised us in his holy Word and Sacraments. So the sending of the Holy Ghost, which was long before predicted by the holy Prophets was fulfill’d on this mount; whereof we read in several places of the holy Scripture, _viz._ _Joel_ ii. 28. ‘And it shall come to pass afterwards that I will pour out my spirit upon all flesh, _&c._ For on mount _Zion_ and in _Jerusalem_, must be a deliverance according to the promise of the Lord.’ And _Isaiah_ ii. 3. ‘Come ye and let us go up to the mountain of the Lord, _&c._ For out of _Zion_ shall go forth the law, and the word of the Lord from _Jerusalem_.’ So that the preaching of Christ’s holy Gospel, and his kingdom did begin from _Zion_ and _Jerusalem_, and was afterwards spread abroad by his holy Apostles throughout the whole world.

‘Grant then, O our dear Lord Christ, unto us, thy Holy Ghost; that he may keep us in the knowledge of thy holy Word, and that he may so strengthen and comfort us in it, that we may freely and without any fear confess it before the face of our enemies and adversaries; and if they offend and prosecute us, that we may overcome our crosses and persecutions with patience; that thy honour may be advanced, and our constancy appear. Grant us also that he may plant these thy graces in our hearts, that we may comfort ourselves with the hope and expectation of those treasures which thou hast by thy death and passion merited and purchased for us. So that we may abide in thy Tabernacle, and dwell in thy holy Hill for ever, _Amen_.’ _Psalm_ xv. 1.

CHAP. V.

_Of the mount ~Moria~ and the glorious temple of ~Solomon~._

Within the city near, to mount _Zion_ lieth another call’d _Moria_, divided from it by the valley of _Tiropæon_, which is now fill’d up and made even with the top, as I have said before, that hereabouts is hardly any depth or unevenness to be seen. This as well as the other meets with the rivulet or brook of _Kidron_ towards the north, and on both of them the town lieth on the sides or descent. This is very famous in the holy Scripture, as you read _Genesis_ xxii, That the pious Patriarch _Abraham_ was ready to offer his son _Isaac_ on this hill, for a burnt-offering to the Lord; whereon _Melchisedec_ the first founder and King of the town _Salem_, and Priest of the Almighty God, did first build a temple, and therefore named the city _Jerusalem_. So we read in the second book of _Chronicles_, chap. iii. That on the same holy mount King _Solomon_ did begin to build a house for the Lord, at _Jerusalem_, many years afterwards. This was formerly very high, surrounded with deep ditches and cliffs, so that it would make a man giddy to look down from the top into the depth. Wherefore _Pompey_ and _Titus_ took a great deal of pains before they could get upon it, to take and destroy that glorious and well-built temple, which was in the last desolation, as well as before in the first burnt by _Nabuchodonosor_, demolish’d and razed to the foundations, as Christ foretold them, _Mark_ xiii. ‘That there should not be left one stone upon another that should not be thrown down, because they did not acknowledge the gracious time of their visitation.’

And that all hopes might be taken away from the Jews to return and to build the temple again, to re-establish their worship; _Hadrian_ the Emperor to prevent all, order’d, in the year of Christ 134, all to be broken down that was left, and to root it up, to demolish all heights, to fill all ditches, to level cliffs, and to make the ground even all over; he did also alter the name and religion of the inhabitants, and instead thereof introduced the heathenish idolatry. In the place of the grave of Christ he built a temple for the idol _Jupiter_; on mount _Calvaria_ another for the idol _Venus_; and another at _Bethlehem_ to the idol _Adonis_; and at last in the place where formerly in the temple of _Solomon_ did stand the _Sanctum Sanctorum_, he erected his own image on a high column for his memory, which was still standing, in _Hieronymus_’s time. The height of this mount cannot be observed any where else now than without by the fountain _Siloah_, and in the valley of _Benhinnom_, and so it did remain desolate to the times of the great Emperor _Constantine_.

After that when the Jews undertook to re-build the temple at the charge of _Julian_ the Apostate, who would make Christ a liar, the Lord having said that their house should be left unbuilt, a great earthquake (when they had open’d the ground to lay the foundation) did move and shake the whole place to that degree, that every thing was turn’d upside down, and abundance of Jews did perish in it. But when the Jews did not matter this, but endeavour’d to go on with the work in hand, the next day flames of fire broke out of the ground, and fiery beams struck down from Heaven, which destroy’d more than the earthquake, and burnt all their tools, _viz._ saws, axes, shovels, hammers, &c. When the Jews would not leave their error for all this, the night following some small glittering crosses like stars fell down upon their cloaths, which they could not wash off the next morning, nor get out by any means; and an earthquake and such a violent hurricane came upon it, that it dissipated all their mortar and other materials into the air, so that frightened and full of fear, they were forced to confess, that Christ, whom their ancestors crucified, was the true and only Lord and God.

Seeing that the temple, together with the mount it stood upon, are razed and desolated, so that one can hardly now discern what they have been anciently, every one that goeth by, because the Lord did not favour his own house, where his name was sanctify’d, hath reason to be astonish’d at it, and to call to mind the strange anger of God against those that leave the Lord their God, and adhere to other gods, serve and adore them.

Now a-days the _Turks_ have taken possession of this mount, and all the ground whereon _Solomon_’s temple did stand, and have built a _Mahometan_ Mosque on it; which _Homar_ the third after the great Imposter _Mahomet_ built when he had taken the holy land and the city of _Jerusalem_. This is not very large nor high, but fine and cover’d with lead, hath a great court-yard about it, paved with white marble, and here and there orange and date-trees are planted in it, which is very pleasant; about the sides thereof are some high towers and gates, one whereof is vastly bigger than any of the rest, which is near to their Batzar or exchange, which is very old, high, and hath very good workmanship in it, wherefore the _Franciscan_ Monks shew it instead of the gate of _Solomon_’s temple, before which lay the man that was lame from his mother’s womb, that begg’d alms from _Peter_ and _John_, to whom _Peter_ said: ‘Silver and gold I have none, but such as I have give I thee: In the name of Jesus Christ of _Nazareth_, rise up and walk.’

At the end of the gate of this yard, as commonly in all their church-porches, hung some lamps. I could have willingly gone in before them, to see the rock and fountain, whereof _Ezek._ in his forty seventh chapter maketh mention, together with the inward building, but because according to their _Mahometan_ laws, all those that are not circumcised are accounted to be unclean, therefore going into their churches is forbid to Christians: if any one is catch’d within, he is in danger of his life, or else he must deny his faith, and be made a _Mamaluck_ or _Renegado_.

In this court-yard is still another gate, call’d the Golden Gate by the _Franciscans_, but because it stands just over against the mount of Olives, therefore it is to be taken to be the gate _Sur_, or rather, as _Nehemiah_ iii. _Ezek._ xlvii. and 2 _Chron._ xxxi. say, for the gate of the stairs, which _Semia_, the son of _Sahamia_, the keeper of them did build; thro’ which our Lord Christ did go into the temple on Palm-day, to drive out the buyers and sellers. Now altho’ this is wall’d up in the new town wall, so that you cannot go either out or in; yet considering it’s ancient arches, it looketh rather like a church than a town-gate.

In the middle of the yard stands a _Turkish_ Mosque or temple, call’d the Rock; this is esteem’d very much by the _Turks_, and next to those of _Mecca_ and _Medina_ reputed to be the most holy. Because God Almighty hath wrought many great miracles there; and that there _Mahomet_, as they falsly write of him in their books, call’d by God to be the last and greatest Prophet, did ride from _Mecca_ to that of the holy Rock of the temple of _Jerusalem_, which is forty days journey, on a very swift beast call’d _Elmparae_, conducted thither by the Angel _Gabriel_, who at his arrival did help him off of his beast, ty’d it up, and then led him by the hand into the temple, where he found many Prophets standing together in a circle, which God had resuscitated for his honour, and to receive him, and to acquaint him with new good tidings, and what God had prepared for him, (I suppose ever burning flames of fire): Among the rest he did also find _Abraham_, _Moses_, and Jesus the son of _Mary_, each of them presenting him, first _Moses_ with a fatt of wine, _Abraham_ with a fatt full of milk, and Jesus with a fatt of water. Then a voice spake to him from heaven saying ‘If thou chusest the fatt with wine, thou and thy people shall perish; if thou chusest the fatt with milk, thou shalt also perish; but if thou chusest the fatt of water, thou and thy people shall be saved eternally.’

These and many more insipid lies of their _Mahomet_, which are very ridiculous and silly fables, are believed to be as true as the Gospel by the _Turks_, _Moors_, and _Arabians_, &c. They also certainly believe (chiefly these that live at _Jerusalem_ as the Pilgrims know) that on the last day their _Mahomet_ is to come and seat himself on the rock of the temple of _Moria_, and Christ on the other side of the valley of _Josaphat_ on the mount of Olives, over-against him. Then when all the people of the earth shall appear before the Lord of Judicature, he shall ask _Mahomet_, who the rest are (meaning the Christians that have been under the yoak of the _Turkish_ Emperor) then shall _Mahomet_ answer and say, _They are these that served me faithfully_; whereupon Christ shall let them pass into Paradise and eternal felicity; which they believe to consist in gratifying fleshly lusts and desires, in eating and drinking, fine cloaths, costly jewels, gold, silver, pearls, pleasant spring gardens, beautiful and cleanly women. Therefore the temple is so highly esteem’d by the _Turks_ and others of the same faith, and believed to be so holy, that they go into it on their bare feet with great devotion, and come twice a year thither in pilgrimage in great Caravans from all places, moved thereunto by the great zeal they have towards their _Mahomet_; but chiefly these Pilgrims that have been at _Madina-Talnabi_, and _Mecca_, that is three days journey farther, who return by the way of _Jerusalem_ (which is now by them call’d _Chutz_) to say also their prayers there, and are of opinion that if they should do otherwise, than to come thither, their peregrination would not be acceptable to God. Amongst these are a good many Renegado Christians, that go with them to _Mecca_, to get by their devotion into greater preferment and wealth, wherefore they are esteem’d by them as holy and creditable ones, although they are full of knavery and roguery, as those that come from _Mahomet_’s own blood; they keep them very honourably, and pray for them as their victors, and endue them with great and peculiar privileges, so that their single witness is as valuable as three, four, six, or ten of others, according as they have been oftner in these places. And that every body may know them, they put upon their turbants on their heads, their _Mahomet_’s green colours, as those of their priests do, who esteem themselves to be his relations, who are only permitted, (as the _Persians_ wear their red colour) to wear such turbants. Wherefore the _Turks_ believe it to be a sin to cover those members, which nature hath made secret, with that colour which their Prophet did bear on his head. When the before-mention’d Renegado Christians are come to this degree, they are bought by every body for money, to bear witness before the Cady, or any other _Turkish_ magistrate, and that even in causes whereof they have not the least knowledge. So it happens daily, that those that give larger bribes to the magistrate, and do exceed their adversaries in number of witnesses, make their lost and foul cause good; and of this they make no conscience, because their _Koran_ teacheth them, that God does not impute to them perjury, but only if they do not invoke him; so that it is full satisfaction, if they feed ten poor ones for this transgression, or if they cloath them, or if they redeem one prisoner; but if they are not substantial enough to do this, they fast three times. This is of a very ill consequence, because they are not afraid to be perjur’d and to cheat others. And although these and other the like sins, are very common amongst the _Turks_, _viz._ robbing, and to break their faith, _&c._ which are directly against God, yet for all that these (because they have lost all remembrance of confession, penitence or mending of their lives) exceed them in this by far. Besides all this they do not let the Christians know who or what they are, but rather study to their utmost power, to abuse and hurt them as often as they find an opportunity, nay they would not spare their very lives, if they dare do it for fear of the _Turkish_ magistrates. In this they are very like unto the _Abyssins_, who in former ages were subject unto the _Soldans_ of _Ægypt_, and did live on the south side of mount _Libanus_, who, as defenders and protectors of their own religion, were set out before other _Saracens_, to murder and kill clandestinely all those that did oppose their _Mahometan_ laws and religion. But after the _Turkish_ Emperor did beat the _Soldan_, and took his dominions from him, the fury of these assassinators was also soon quelled; for the great _Turk_ doth not allow, in any of his provinces, of murthers, as the _Saracenes_ did, but punish’d them severely, and keepeth very strict laws that no body may hurt the other; which you may conclude by this, that if one doth but fetch blood from the other in the least, he is not only mulcted in one or two ducats, but sometimes in forty, fifty, nay sometimes in a hundred, according to the heinousness of the crime, and the ability of the offender; and so he keepeth subjects in peace and quietness.

Besides these Pilgrims that go to _Mecca_, there are many others in their great Caravans, that rather, like unto pedlers, endeavour to get thither with small charges, by the help of their _Carvatschares_, or Inns, and Hospitals, to make good profit there, by buying and selling, than out of devotion to wait on their _Mahomet_, and amongst them there are also sometimes Christians, but at their arrival they must not visit the holy places, much less touch them. Wherefore they buy before hand all sorts of merchandizes, chiefly at _Cayro_ (from whence to _Jerusalem_ it is ten days journey) to sell or swap them at _Mecca_, and other places. Which custom we need not think to be strange among the _Turks_, seeing that a great many are found among the _Roman_ Pilgrims, that pretend to be good Christians, that go pilgrimages to _Rome_, St _Jacob_, _Jerusalem_, &c. not only to get his Holiness’s absolution and indulgences, but rather to make good profit of goods they buy for that purpose; or which is more, they pass over their estates during their absence, into the hands of others, to reap the benefit thereof with this condition, that if they return home from these places where they vow’d to go to, they shall have them restored again with great profit. Now as among all these Pilgrims, chiefly those that have been oftnest at _Mecca_ are by the _Turks_ in greatest esteem, and that green colour (which only belongeth to the Priests to wear) is the sooner allow’d them, whereby they may be known, as the brothers of St _Jacob_ are known, by the scallop-shells. The fame it is also with their camels, for on the lower part of one of their fore-feet you may see as many small chains hung as they have been times there in Caravans, so that you also may soon discern them.