Chapter III: Preface: To Volume VIII (2)

After spending three days in this neighbourhood, we returned to my friend’s house. The vessel which was to carry the gentleman’s family was expecting to sail in a few days, and I intended to start as soon. But a day or two before we were ready to proceed, standing at my friend’s door, we saw a gentleman riding up in great haste, who informed us that war had taken place between the United States and Great-Britain. This was sorrowful news indeed to me; and my only remedy was, if possible, to make my way back into the United States. Accordingly I harnessed my horses to the waggon, and drove with all possible speed down to the ferry and called for the boat; but judge of my surprise and sorrow, when, instead of the ferryman handling their oars, I was accosted {23} by sentinels walking with their guns, who said they had strict orders to forbid any one crossing over. I stood some time looking to the opposite shore, which was about one mile, and could see the same business going on. I then returned in haste; was advised to take my horses into the woods and secrete them, which I did. Finding ourselves destitute of many articles which we wanted, such as tea, sugar, tobacco, &c., and not being able to procure them on this side, as there were no stores on the Canada side where they were kept, we resolved to make an adventure upon the other side. Accordingly when night came on, we fitted out a boat with four men with oars, and sent them to accomplish our object. They had eighteen miles to cross the lake, which was performed before daylight. The next morning, unperceived by any one except the storekeeper, who was always ready to supply the wants of any one when he was sure of cash in return, the boat was hauled into the bushes, and the men secreted during the day. In the meantime the articles wanted were put up and at night put on board, when the boat was shoved off, and they steered their course directly back again. Owing to the darkness of the night they steered too much up the lake, and at daylight found they were about six miles from shore. They pulled very hard, but did not arrive until after sunrise. Fearing they might be discovered from Fort Erie,[6] they carried their goods up into the bushes and hauled the boat after them, when they came up to a house a little distance from their landing, and went about their daily employment. About two hours afterwards a non-commissioned officer, whom we found to be a serjeant, and four men belonging to the cavalry, rode up to the door, armed and in British uniform, and demanded if there had been a boat across the lake to this place. The answer was no. They then dismounted, and walking in, began to search in and about the house, but found nothing. Observing their disappointment, we took pity on them, invited them in, and gave them some spirits to drink. The morning was warm, and after drinking several times, they concluded that all was as it should be, and returned to their station. I remained here several days, and began to grow quite discontented with my {24} present prospects; I therefore concluded to call on General Brock,[7] the Commander-in-chief of the Province of Upper Canada, and solicit his aid. His headquarters were at Fort George,[8] forty-seven miles below, near the head of Lake Ontario. The second day of July I started with a horse and gig, went to Chippewa and stayed over night. Next morning, wishing to know my fate, I proceeded on till within about one mile of the Fort, when ascending a hill, I fell in the rear of five hundred Indians, who were marching in Indian file, painted, and in their war dress. Not wishing to interrupt them at this critical time, I moved slowly after them until I had an opportunity of passing them without molestation to either party. They walked with their faces down, and paid no attention to any one. On coming on to the plain near the Fort, I discovered warlike preparations; flying artillery, cavalry and foot, not in great numbers, but exercising and preparing for an attack. The American Fort Niagara,[9] and the English Fort George, lie nearly opposite, one mile distant from each other, and on the opposite sides of the Niagara river; they were each under fearful apprehensions. I rode up to the General’s house and inquired for him, and was conducted to the garden. I walked up to him and made known my business, and my anxious desire of crossing the river with my property. He politely replied, he had no objection to granting my request, provided the officers of the United States would grant the same indulgence to his Majesty’s subjects; but until then he could give me no permit. After many questions, to which he received my answers, he said I should see him at Fort Erie the next forenoon, which I did, about ten o’clock. While conversing with him this morning, a cannon was discharged at Black Rock,[10] two miles below, which at this time had become fortified by the United States; he started, and said, “I must consider you as a prisoner of war, and unless you can procure bonds of fifty thousand dollars to remain within this Province, you must immediately be committed to prison.” My friend accidentally standing by at this time, passed his word for me, which was sufficient, and I was set at liberty. The cause of this discharge from the cannon, and many others which followed, was the celebration of the fourth of July, it being that day of the month.

{25} I remained under this bond seventeen days, but was allowed to go where I chose without molestation. Waggons were daily coming in from the back woods loaded with men, women and children, many of whom were in a very distressed situation; they begged for permission to cross to the United States, many of whom were formerly from there; but instead of this request being granted, many of the men were made soldiers, and their horses taken and employed in the service of government. Bad as this may seem, yet it was far preferable to remaining in the woods among the savages, who assumed the right of plundering whatever came in their way. These people were truly in a bad situation, for they were neither safe at home, nor on the frontiers, as the soldiers were few and provisions scarce. As for my part, I was allowed to go where I pleased; and oftentimes fell in company with the officers, who treated me very politely. On the seventeenth day of my bondage, while at my lodgings, I received a line from an officer, ordering me to appear at Fort Erie; which I did. I was then conducted two miles below, to the ferry, where a boat was prepared, and I was ordered to go on board, and soon arrived on the United States’ shore. When I first received this order, suspecting what would take place, took my friend aside, told him I knew that a gentleman in Buffalo had petitioned General Brock for my release, and thought it possible this would take place, and should I not return that day, he might be assured that I was at liberty; and that I wished him at night to build a large fire on the lake shore, and have my horses and carriage ready if I should call.

My object now was to get a boat sufficiently large to carry two horses and a waggon. I was told that I could obtain one by going eighteen miles up the lake. I immediately hired a horse, and went to the place, but found the boat was gone twelve miles further up. I passed on, and when I arrived there, found the boat had gone still further up, and was obliged to give over the pursuit. This being the only suitable boat in the vicinity, and not being able to obtain that, I began almost to despair of ever getting my horses across to the United States’ shore. When night came on, I could plainly discern the light {26} which my friend had kindled on the opposite shore; which was for a mark for me to steer by, had I found a boat; and although I was determined to run every risk, and venture all hazards, to cross, and get my property on board; yet I was obliged to relinquish all hope, and had the mortification to see all my attempts frustrated. I therefore returned back to Buffalo, purchased a horse and gig, and returned home to Massachusetts.

I remained at home till the third of July, eighteen hundred and fourteen, when a gentleman, who was going to Kentucky, wished me to accompany him. I took a horse and waggon, and we set out on our journey; pursuing the same route which I formerly took, to Batavia, in the western part of New-York. Our intention was to go by land to Cincinnati, at the south-western part of Ohio, where we should meet the Ohio river. But falling in with a gentleman who observed that he was well acquainted with all that part of the country, and who advised us to steer southerly to the head of Alleghany river, the distance being but about forty-five miles, where we should find a pleasant water carriage the remaining part of our journey; we agreed with him, and sold him my waggon and harness, as there was no road for wheels a part of this route, purchased provision, and packed all our effects on to the horse, and set out on foot, driving our horse before us. We travelled on two days, seldom seeing any house, having very bad roads, such as by many people would be considered no road at all. We stopped at night at a log hut, found the people more friendly than intelligent; inquired how far we had come, and were informed we had travelled forty miles, and had forty miles further to go. We were greatly disappointed and mortified at our informer’s account of this route, especially as provision was very scarce both for man and beast. However, the next morning we continued on our journey till about twelve o’clock, when we stopped at a log hut. There had been several acres of land cleared, and we noticed a very tall hemlock-tree at the farther end of this clearing, and a man chopping it down. It being of an extraordinary size, we thought we would go to the root and see it fall. The man who was chopping observed, it would be some time before it {27} would fall; and my friend walked away to some little distance. I remained a few minutes, and then followed him. When I had proceeded about half of the length of the tree I heard a cracking noise, and looking back, I saw the tree coming directly upon me. There was no chance of escaping; I therefore clung my arms to me and partly sat down; the tree fell, the body touching my left shoulder, and a large limb my right. I was completely covered with the limbs and leaves, but without the slightest injury. I soon cleared myself of this uncouth situation, and looked on my narrow escape with surprise; the other two men stood motionless with fear. We soon pursued our journey; and the next day, about four o’clock in the afternoon, were overtaken by a boy, who observed he was travelling our way about one mile and a half, when he said we should come to a tavern. This was joyful news to us, as our provision was almost exhausted, and we had but few chances of renewing it. The clouds had been gathering fast, and there was an appearance of rain; in a few minutes the wind began to blow violently, the limbs of trees were falling on all sides, and large trees were blown up by the roots; we could scarcely escape the danger of one, before another presented itself. The cracking and falling of the trees was terrible, not only to the hearing, but the sight also. I jumped from tree to tree, not knowing which way or direction was most safe. Heavy thunder, sharp lightning, and the rain falling in torrents, made the scene doubly terrible, and seemingly, nothing but death awaited us every moment. This gale continued about twenty minutes, when the wind ceased, and all was still. My first object was to find my companions and horse, if still alive. I had not seen them since the commencement of the gale. I called aloud, sometimes by name, at other times halloo, but no answer being made, this gave me reason to believe that all was lost. After renewing my calls for some time, I heard a voice and followed it; found it to {be} my companion, and soon after the little boy came up. Our next search was for the horse, which we found about one hundred yards from where we stood, standing still among the fallen trees, stripped of every thing except the bridle on his head. We made him fast, then {28} went in search of the baggage, which we found, at considerable distance from him, almost buried in the mud. Placing it on the horse’s back once more, we related our danger to each other, and proceeded on our way, when we soon arrived at the tavern which the boy had mentioned.

This tavern was an old log building of about twenty feet square, and contained the landlord, his wife, and six children. Here we found some pork, a small quantity of bread, and some whiskey, but no food for our horse. This was the greatest accommodation we had found since leaving Batavia. Finding a man who was going on to the end of our land voyage, about seven miles, we left the boy, and about one hour before sunset, we pursued our course. The mud and fallen trees very much retarded our progress; but notwithstanding our wading in water, blundering over trees and stumps, &c., at ten o’clock we arrived at the Alleghany river.

The next morning we met with three soldiers who had purchased a canoe, and were bound down the river; we made an arrangement with them, paid one half for the boat, sold my horse, and began to prepare for a trip down the river. We endeavoured to purchase provision, but could not obtain it for money. Having a blanket, I traded with a good lady for a few pounds of bread and pork. The truth is, the land about this place is so poor, the few inhabitants who are settled here have no resources only from the country, back a considerable distance; and hence they may be called real speculators on travellers, who happen to take this course for the Ohio river. Our company, now consisting of five in number, embarked on board this about three o’clock in the afternoon, and at sunset we came to a sandy beach, hauled our boat ashore, and concluded to remain here during the night. We built us a fire, cooked some provision, and encamped for the night. The weather being warm, we made but little provision against the cold; about one o’clock I awoke, and found myself very chilly. The rest being all asleep, I got up, and found I had been lying in water about two inches deep. Mustering all hands we went further up on to the shore, drawing our boat after us, built a fire, got warm and partly dried {29} when daylight appeared. Each one now taking a piece of bread in one hand and a piece of pork in the other, made a hearty breakfast; after which we took to our oars and continued on our course. The river being very low at this season of the year, made the navigation of our boat, although small, very difficult. Sometimes, for a long distance, we would row in almost still water, then coming to rapids, we were urged on with great velocity among rocks and trees, which had lodged among them. One of the soldiers being acquainted with this river, rendered our situation much safer, as he served as our conductor; otherwise we should hardly have dared to run the venture. The log houses on this river were few in number, and from the poorness of the land, and the then existing war, the inhabitants were left destitute almost of the necessaries of life for themselves, much more so for travellers. Deer, bears, and other small game being plenty, their principal dependence was on these for sustenance. The fourth day of our voyage, in the afternoon, we discovered a house on the bank of the river. We pulled ashore, went up and requested to stay over night. Our request was granted, and we had plenty of venison, and fed to our full satisfaction. The man observed he had just killed a fine buck, and was glad to entertain all strangers. We remained here during the night, leaving what little provision we had in a knapsack on board the boat, which we hauled on the bank, thinking all would be secure. Next morning went down, and found all safe except the provision, which had been carried off in the night by some dogs, their footsteps being plainly to be seen. We mentioned this to the man of the house, who observed he was very sorry for our misfortune, especially as it must be his own dogs, he keeping a pack of hounds. There was no remedy however for this accident; we therefore made ourselves contented, he saying that he would furnish us with every thing in his power, which was but little; and for this little he was careful to charge us an exorbitant price. He however entertained us with many amusing stories of his great feats in hunting, particularly his great success in killing catamounts, which are numerous about the Alleghany mountains. He led a horse up to the door, sounded a horn, {30} and immediately the beast was surrounded by twenty or thirty dogs, barking, howling, and jumping almost into the poor animal’s mouth, which stood with great patience, and seemed not to notice them. This, said the man, is my pleasure and support, and what I would not exchange for all the luxury of an eastern city. Pleased with this history, we took to our oars, pushed on, working hard during the day, camping on the shore during the night, with short provision till the eighth day, when we came within thirty miles of Pittsburg. Being tired of these waters, we sold our boat, and proceeded on by land. Here we came to a plentiful part of the country, and the next day we arrived at Pittsburg,[11] at the head of Ohio river, three hundred miles from where we first took water. We staid here one day, then parted with the three soldiers, and took passage in a keel boat bound down the river. On board of this boat we had every accommodation we could wish. Forty of the passengers, besides twelve of the boat’s crew, stopped at Wheeling, a pleasant town in Virginia, and then proceeded on to Marietta, at the mouth of the Muskingum river, and so on to Cincinnati, Ohio. Here we went on board a flat-bottomed boat, and proceeded to Louisville, Kentucky, at the falls of the Ohio river, seven hundred miles below Pittsburg. I tarried at this place several days, then purchased me a horse, saddle and bridle, parted with my old friend, who had found his brother and wished to remain, started for the eastern States, passed through Frankfort, the seat of government in Kentucky, and came on to Cincinnati in Ohio.

Here I met three gentlemen who were travelling on to the head of the Alleghany river; their company was very acceptable to me, as I was a stranger through that wilderness country. The day after we commenced our journey together, it began to rain, and continued raining most of the time for ten days, which made the roads extremely bad, and hard travelling. The soil being of a clayey nature, in many hollows, which, in a dry season, are perfectly dry, we now found the water quite deep, in strong currents, almost impassable for horses, and quite so with carriages. Our feet were constantly wet during the day, and our horses frequently mid-rib deep in water. {31} There being but few bridges in this quarter, and these mostly log ones, we were frequently compelled to encounter these vallies or guzzles, without bridges, full of water, and extremely difficult to pass. In some places, in low grounds, there would be log-causeways for a considerable distance, which, at this wet season, were very slippery, and rendered travelling doubly difficult and dangerous; although in a less wet time they might assist in keeping travellers out of the mud. The accommodations on the road for ourselves and horses were very good until we came to the north part of Pennsylvania. Here I was attacked with fever and ague, and was obliged to stop several days. All the company, except one man, left me, they being very anxious to arrive at their places of destination. I waited here until I was a little recruited, and then proceeded on, although very weak and feeble, both from the disorder and the medicine I had taken. The third night after our departure, we stopped at a hut, where we found provision for ourselves and food for our horses. During the night it rained very hard; the next morning we inquired of our landlord the distance to the next house, and were told it was twenty miles and a very rough road, which proved strictly true. We climbed over rocky mountains, often meeting with fallen trees, and no way of getting round them. My fellow-traveller would get off his horse and assist me in getting off mine, as I was unable to dismount alone; he would then leap the horses over the trees, and then help me on again. Thus we continued ascending and descending these high hills; and, although we started very early in the morning, and were diligent during the whole day, we did not arrive at the above mentioned house until sunset, and were completely drenched in rain. We stopped, went into an old cabin, found a woman and a half a dozen children, asked permission to stay, and it was granted. There was nothing for our horses but a bunch of old straw lying out of the doors; the saddles were taken off, and the horses tied to it, where they remained all night. We then took off our coats and sat down to dry ourselves; but there was but very little difference between our present situation and out of doors. This place we named Hobson’s choice, (that or none). We then inquired of {32} the woman whether she could furnish us with a supper. She pleasantly replied she could, with such a rarity as she had not seen in the house, till that day, for three months and a half; it was some Indian meal, which she would make into pot-cakes, and which with a little butter, some pickles, and a kind of tea, which grew around her cabin, she said was good enough for any gentleman. These delicacies being ready, we sat down, and I ate extremely hearty, not having eaten or drank anything since sunrise; it was a delicious meal. The next morning we partook of the same fare, paid two dollars each, put our saddles on to our trembling, half starved horses, and bidding our hostess good bye, proceeded on our journey. On our way we stopped at a house in an Indian village belonging to the Seneca tribe,[12] which was improved as an inn. Here we found plenty of good provisions, and food for our horses. It was a small log house, very neat inside, and the accommodations superior to any we had found on the road. They had all kinds of spirits, and, from all appearance, made but little use of them themselves; a circumstance not characteristic of these wild men of the woods. One man introduced himself as Major Obee; his manners did not appear like the rest of the Indians, and we understood the reason was, he was educated at Philadelphia. After several days more of hard travelling, we came out on the great western turnpike in New-York.[13] This was a pleasant sight to us, and probably would have been to our poor animals could they have expressed their feelings; for in travelling among mud, rocks and stumps, they had scarcely any hair left on their legs. I now considered myself almost at home, although three hundred miles from it. After this nothing material happened to me; I soon travelled these three hundred miles, and safely arrived in Massachusetts the beginning of October.

In my absence, I had agreed to return again; accordingly on the third day of February, 1815, I set out, and travelled nearly the same road as before, to the head of the Alleghany river; what they call the head of navigation. This place is called Olean Point,[14] and was much altered in appearance since my former visit here; instead of a few log huts as before, there were forty or {33} fifty shanties, or temporary log houses, built up, and completely filled with men, women and children, household furniture thrown up in piles; and a great number of horses, waggons, sleighs, &c., &c. These people were emigrants from the eastern States, principally from the State of Maine,[15] and bound to different States down the Ohio river. Two gentlemen undertook to take a number of these people, and found it to be about twelve hundred, of all ages and sexes. They had a large number of flat-bottomed boats built for their conveyance; these were boarded up at the sides, and roofs over them, with chimneys suitable for cooking, and were secure from the weather. There were also many rafts of boards and shingles, timber and saw logs, which would find a ready market at different places on the Ohio river. There are many saw-mills on the streams above this place, where these articles are manufactured from the fine timber which grows in vast quantities in this vicinity. The river at this time had risen full bank, and I should suppose was navigable for vessels of fifty tons burden; but was frozen over to the depth of ten or twelve inches; this was the cause of so many people being assembled here at this time, as many of them had been here two months waiting an opportunity to descend the river. I waited about ten days, which brought it nearly to the close of March. On Saturday night sat up late, heard some cracking of the ice, several of us observing that we should soon be on our way; went to bed. Next morning at daylight found the river nearly clear, and at eight o’clock it was completely so. The place now presented a curious sight; the men conveying their goods on board the boats and rafts, the women scolding, and children crying, some clothed, and some half clothed, all in haste, filled with anxiety, as if a few minutes were lost their passage would be lost also. By ten o’clock the whole river for one mile appeared to be one solid body of boats and rafts. What, but just before, appeared a considerable village, now remained but a few solitary huts with their occupants. Myself with the adventurers now drifted on rapidly with the current, and in six days we were in the Ohio river, and should have been much sooner had it been safe to have run in {34} the night. We found this river had risen in the same proportion as the Alleghany; and several houses at which I had stopped the July before, and which then stood thirty or forty feet above the surface of the water, were now so completely surrounded with water that we could float up to the doors; and on my arrival at Cincinnati I was told that the water had risen sixty feet above low water mark. Small boats would run just below the city, and come up in back water into the streets. Much damage was done in many places by this extraordinary freshet.

In this part of the country I remained for a considerable time, part of which I spent in this state, and part in Kentucky; but was soon attacked with fever and ague again. This complaint seemed to be quite attached to me, and no effort which I could make was sufficient to remove it while I remained on the banks of this river. I imputed the severity of this complaint to the heavy fogs which were experienced at this place; and determined to leave it, and go either to the North or South.

Having concluded on the latter, I took passage on board a boat to Shipping’s Port,[16] just below the Falls of the Ohio. Here I went on board a barge of eighty tons burthen, bound to New-Orleans. There were but a few steam boats traversing these waters at this time, for which reason these large boats of burden were built principally for conveying merchandize up the river; although they commonly went with full freight of country produce down. They are built with two masts, and sails, which are of little service, the stream being so crooked that many times the sails are hoisted with a fair wind, and in running a few miles the bend will be so great as to bring the wind ahead. In going down we stopped at many places on the Illinois and Tennessee side. Getting into the Mississippi river, our first stop at any town was at New Madrid.[17] We made the boat fast to the shore, and about twelve o’clock at night was awaked by a noise which appeared like a cable drawing over the boat’s side. I started and went on deck; found all quiet. My fear was that the boat had struck adrift, and was running over a log; but on inquiry found it was an earthquake. Next morning got under way, and the water having become {35} low, the sawyers made their appearance plentifully, some several feet out of the water. These sawyers are large trees, washed from the shore, which drift down till the roots or branches, reaching the bottom, fasten into the mud and become as firm as when standing in the forest. Should a boat be so unfortunate as to strike one of these, it would in all probability prove fatal; therefore every precaution is necessary to avoid them. We had run but a few days when our boat rubbed on one of these logs, which lay so far under water as to escape our notice. Coming to the rudder, it lifted it from its hinges, and took it overboard. We immediately pulled for the shore, made fast, and sent the boat in search of it; luckily about one mile below we found it and returned. We then proceeded on, and in two days after the same accident occurred again. Diligent search was made, but without effect. We then went on shore, cut down a small tree, and made a steering oar, about sixty feet long. The stern of the boat was so high, it was with difficulty this could be managed. In turning round points of land, we had many narrow escapes. Our usual custom was to get to the shore and make fast before night. At one time we concluded to drop anchor in the river, which we did; and next morning attempting to raise it, found it fast below. After working till ten o’clock, found there was no possibility of raising it, and cut away. This was unfortunate for us, as we had formerly occasion for it, and more so afterwards. Several nights on this trip, we made fast to the shore near the cane brakes. These grow here very thick, and many miles in extent; at this season of the year they are dry; when setting fire to them they will crack, making a noise like soldiers’ musketry; which caused great amusement for the passengers and crew. We arrived at Natchez,[18] Mississippi, and stopped there a part of two days. Immediately on leaving the place, found we had left one man on shore. We hailed a man standing there, and requested him to bring this man on board, who had just come in sight. They jumped into a boat, and when come within two hundred yards of us the man fell overboard, which was the last we saw of him.

{36} The river now becoming much straiter than we had found it before for three hundred miles, made the trip easier and safer, and on the eighth day of January, 1817, we arrived at New-Orleans.

During my stay I remained the principal part of the time on board this barge. The weather some part of the time was cool, and three nights the ground froze quite hard. Oranges and other fruits froze on the trees. By accounts from Natchez we learned that the snow had fallen six inches deep; a circumstance never known before by the oldest person resident there.

The poor negroes, I was informed, suffered much, and many of them died. Having tarried till my business was closed, I determined to return by land; and finding a number of persons, who were going on the same route, I provided myself with a knapsack, a blanket, a tin quart pot and necessary provisions, and on the 23d day of February shouldered my knapsack and set out on my journey. I travelled three miles to the northward to Lake Pontchartrain;[19] there found a vessel in the afternoon ready to cross the lake, being about thirty miles. The wind being light, the next day at twelve o’clock we met the opposite shore; went to a tavern, took dinner, and found eight men travelling the same way, mostly strangers to each other, and but one who had travelled the road before. After collecting our forces, we went on, and travelled about fifteen miles that afternoon. The country being flat, we had to wade in water and mud a considerable part of the way, and in many places knee deep. This we found to be attended with bad consequences, as many of us took cold thereby. At night we stopped at a small house, the occupants of which gave us leave to sleep on the floor. We wrapped our blankets around us, with our wet clothes on, placed our feet to the fire, and so remained through the night.

The next morning our joints were so stiff we were hardly able to walk; yet we travelled on about two hours, when we stopped by the way-side, struck up a fire, cooked some victuals, refreshed ourselves, and marched on; the same we did several times during the day; and at night found we had gained forty miles. We again refreshed ourselves with food, and went to our repose {37} for the night, it being the custom among these travellers to start very early, as much as two hours before day. Not being accustomed to this way of travelling, myself as well as several more wished to alter this course, and wait till a later hour for starting; but the major part refused our proposal, saying they wanted to get home as quick as possible.

No one wishing to be left alone, in the morning we all followed our leader; and went fifteen miles without refreshment of any kind. My feet had now become very sore in consequence of travelling through mud and water, and I was much exhausted with fatigue. We stopped, I ate and drank with the rest of my comrades, but felt quite unwell. After sitting half an hour, felt unable to travel; they endeavored to encourage me, but I found it impossible to keep pace with them. I was sorry to be left alone, nevertheless observed to them, I did not wish to detain any one, and requested them to pursue their journey. I got from them all the information possible for the journey, bid them farewell, and we parted. At this time I was only one hundred miles from New-Orleans, and nine hundred miles to complete my journey to the Ohio river, and to add to my misfortune, five hundred of this lay through an Indian country, with but few white men on the road, and their friendship not to be relied on so much as the natives.

When my companions left me, I was at a very friendly man’s house, who condoled my misfortune. Here I tarried about three hours, when, having determined to pursue my journey, I took leave of these friendly people, and commenced my lonely journey, moving but slowly along; and soon found I had entered the boundaries of the Choctaw nation.[20] I had no difficulty in finding the way, as a few years before this, a road had been cut through the Choctaw and Chickasaw nations to the Tennessee river;[21] and as young trees and brush had grown up in this road, the trees were marked to assist the traveller. By strictly observing these marked trees I felt secure, and proceeded slowly along, sometimes ten, and sometimes fifteen miles in a day.

At night I generally found an Indian hut, where they {38} would receive me very friendly in their way, and throw down skins for me to sleep on.

Seven days had now elapsed, and my health not in the least recruited, when, as I was walking on very deliberately, thinking of the decrease of my provision, and the distance I had yet to travel, I was overtaken by a white man, who asked me from whence I came, and where bound, at the same time observing that I looked sick, which probably must be the cause of my being alone; I answered it was. He then said, “I live but one mile from this, go with me.” I did so, and found his wife and several children in a small log hut, by whom I was received very kindly.

This favor could not have come more opportunely, as I was both fatigued and sick. This man was from North Carolina; and his motive for thus exiling himself and family to this part of the country was not my business to inquire; I have only to say, that they look suspicious. With this family I remained two days, and no brother, who had been long absent, could have been treated with more kindness and affection.

I gave him a narrative of my life, which he and the family listened to with great attention; he also narrated his great adventures in hunting.

The principal food which this cabin afforded, was dried venison and bread; the venison, for want of salt to preserve it, is cut in slices, dried and smoked, which makes what they call jerk.