Chapter XIII: Preface (9)

The judicial proceedings at New-Orleans are recorded both in the French and English languages; and the juries there consist of men of both nations. In all cases, excepting those of a criminal nature, the Code Napoleon prevails; but in criminal cases, {238} the Common Law is the rule of action. Here genius is not trammelled by the rules of special pleading. The allegations of the parties, if intelligible, have to encounter no quibbles.

The science of special pleading is, no doubt, a science purely logical; and so far the courts of New-Orleans recognize it; but in the New-England states many rules, in relation to this subject, which have no foundation in reason, and which are the vestiges of ancient sophistry, are adhered to, by some of our lawyers, with all the pedantry of ignorance, and the pertinacity of dullness. Many a genius has left the bar of our judicial tribunals, because he would not consent to argue upon rules which had no foundation in common sense, and to quibble upon points, upon which effrontery and nonsense may prevail over modesty and reason.

The lawyers in New-Orleans acquire immense fortunes by their profession; and it may be added, that physicians and surgeons are equally successful. It requires almost a fortune there to fee a lawyer, or to obtain medical advice; and real estate is so valuable, that actions upon land titles often involve several hundred thousand dollars.

In this city, a building is about being erected for a Presbyterian society. Over this congregation, the Rev. Mr. Larned is to be ordained. The eloquence of this gentleman is highly spoken of.

There is, perhaps, no place in the civilized world, where the influence of the gospel is more needed than at New-Orleans. There the light of Revelation exists; but the people walk in moral darkness. The thunder of divine displeasure alone can arouse them from their deep slumber. It may, indeed, be supposed, that they are “dead in trespasses and sins.”

Here I may observe, that the success of the gospel {239} depends, _as far as it respects human means_, upon modes of preaching; and these modes should always have a reference to the education and habits of the people. Where there is little or no sense of the obligations of morality, it is truly unwise to expatiate upon abstruse doctrinal points. It is very doubtful whether discussions upon the mysterious parts of scripture are ever useful; and it is certain that such discussions are often productive of contention, discouragement, and unbelief. Although a layman, I would respectfully recommend to some of our clergy, to doubt their own wisdom; to suspect their ability to understand those secret things which belong unto God; and to take with them the following words of the son of Sirach:—“Seek not out the things which are too hard for thee, neither search the things which are above thy strength; but what is _commanded_, think thou upon with _reverence_.”

The love of money in New-Orleans is conspicuous; and the vast sums, which may there be accumulated, render keen the spirit of avarice. This spirit is too prevalent throughout the United States, and much fraud is the consequence of it. It is truly disgusting to hear people continually inquiring respecting this and that man’s property; as though property was the only subject worthy of remark, and the only test of merit.

The love of wealth in this country is making rapid inroads upon the love of principle; and nothing can retard its progress but the exclusive patronage of virtue and talents.

These two last terms constitute true taste; and this should be the only distinction in society. The distinction of wealth is odious; and that of birth is nonsensical. Neither is learning the _exclusive_ test of merit. High talents may exist without much learning, {240} and can easily overthrow the tinsel of the schools. Integrity, noble principles, polished sentiments, and a becoming deportment, constitute the real gentleman; and such a man, whether he originated in a palace, or in a straw-built shed, is an ornament to society, and an honour to any company.

There are, no doubt, public and private advantages in wealth. As a motive, it enlists the passions in behalf of science, industry, and commercial enterprise; but no man is justified in desiring a great estate, excepting for the purpose of aiding private charity, and institutions which have in view the welfare of mankind. Gold and silver are of consequence to a state, both as a circulating medium, and as a means of dividing property, and distributing it to those, whose gains are small, and whose pecuniary independence is important both to them and to the community; but those who regard this shining dross more than justice and prudence warrant, ought to be despised. Compared with the vast estates frequently accumulated for selfish purposes, mankind want but little. Artificial views incur unnecessary expenses, and fraud is frequently made to cater for their discharge.

It may be supposed that I ought, ere this stage in my tour, to have mentioned some particular, relative to the prevailing manners and customs of the people situated in those parts of the country through which I passed. But my course did not lead me through many settled places, and I met with no peculiarities, in relation to this subject, worthy of remark. Indeed, the Yankees are so scattered over the whole country, and their influence in society is generally so considerable, that their habits and modes of living are, in a greater or less degree, imitated every where. These observations apply particularly to that part of the country west of the Ohio. At {241} New-Orleans, the population being principally French, the manners and customs of the place are, generally speaking, peculiar to them.

Upon my arrival at New-Orleans, and in looking back upon my course, I could not but be forcibly impressed with the wonderful wealth and physical force of the United States. In comparing the present situation of the country with what it was when first discovered by Europeans, the mind is astonished; and in dwelling upon its probable increase, in the course of one hundred years, numbers fail, and calculation becomes alarmed. Here too, the hand of Providence is visible in the discovery and settlement of the country; in the protection of the infant colonies of our forefathers, and in the great events of our history to the present time. With reference to these ideas, the thoughts of the Psalmist interestingly apply:—“Unto thee will I give the land of Canaan, the lot of your inheritance.” And again: “When there were but a few men in number, yea, very few, and strangers in it; He suffered no man to do them wrong!—He reproved _kings_ for their sakes.”

Any comparison, which I may make between the country situated on the Mississippi, and the New-England States, will, perhaps, be partial. That I prefer the latter, in every point of view, will be readily accounted for. It may appear strange, however, that my principal objection to the former, is the productive capacity of its soil. Both in a moral and political point of view, this is a serious evil. Industry is indispensable to the health of the mental and physical nature of man; and also to the preservation of his virtue. On the Mississippi, plenty may be obtained by a very small degree of labour. An additional exertion produces wealth; and indolence, luxury, and dissipation are, in this {242} part of the United States, its general consequences. This is too, in a measure, the case with all the western country. There are many other objections; but they are too numerous to mention. The country on the Mississippi is not a grazing country. The hills of New-England feed, on the contrary, the finest cattle, furnish the most delightful prospects, and produce the hardiest plants of freedom. New-England too, is a peculiarly happy country with respect to religion, morals, education, and health. Here industry gives a zest to the ordinary enjoyments of life, strengthens the mind for the acquisition of knowledge, prepares the heart for the defence of principle, and nerves the physical man for the maintenance of national right.

I might now consider my _pedestrious_ tour as finished; but it may not be amiss to continue my narrative to the time of my arrival in New-Hampshire. As this, however, will be rather an unproductive field, I must introduce, in my course, some brief reflections upon foreign topics.

About the first of July I sailed from New-Orleans for Boston. The course of a vessel from and to these places is circuitous, and nearly as long as that of a voyage across the Atlantic. The distance is about 2,500 miles.

Having hauled off from the Levee into the current, we beat down the river with a light breeze; at length took in our top-gallant-sails, moved briskly about thirty miles, and moored along the bank for the night. I had previously been below the city, about seven leagues, for the purpose of visiting General Wilkinson. In the General’s library I met with many rare and interesting works. During this excursion I viewed the celebrated battle ground, five miles below New-Orleans.[201] The Americans were fortified, having a marsh in front, the river on {243} the right, an impervious wood on the left, and the resources of the city in the rear:—an admirable position! The enemy displayed the most desperate courage in attacking the Americans thus situated. British glory never shone brighter than upon this occasion; and British troops never experienced a greater overthrow.

Below New-Orleans snakes, lizards, and alligators are numerous; and the bees and grasshoppers are very large. Here one almost supposes himself in the West-Indies. Cotton does not flourish well so low down as General Wilkinson’s plantation; but sugar cane is here remarkably productive. The craw-fish, which naturalists say is a fresh water lobster, here passes under the banks of the Mississippi to a considerable distance, and comes up through the earth into the fields. This circumstance proves that the land in this part of the country is afloat, and also that this species of animated nature is amphibious. It is exceedingly interesting to notice the economy of nature in her transitions from the vegetable to the animal world; and in some measure, from the mere animal to human existence. With respect to the former we may inquire whether the oyster and sponge are animals or vegetables? The oyster is rooted to the earth like a plant, and yet it feeds upon animals. The dexterity which it displays in closing its shells upon those worms, which are so unfortunate as to creep into them, is worthy of remark. There are two amphibious plants as well as amphibious animals. The flag is considered an aquatic; but it flourishes best between land and water. An amphibious fish, such as the craw-fish appears to be, is a new link in the chain of existences.

About eighteen miles below New-Orleans is the English Turn.[202] This is a bend in the river, which {244} is thus called, because the English ships, in their first attempt upon the city, were obliged to return. Twenty-five miles below the Turn is Fort Plaquemine.[203] This fort is on the left side of the river, and makes a very elegant appearance. Not far from this place, the country immediately becomes very low; trees soon disappear; and the river flows over both its banks, watering immense marshes, covered with flags and high grass.

Two days after leaving New-Orleans for the eastward, we passed the above mentioned fort, and towards evening, anchored near the shore. Here the prospect from the top gallant-masts of the vessel was gloomy. In the course of the evening, a black and ragged little schooner floated by us; and she proved to be the vessel, from the fore-yard of which the Indian Chief Hemattlemico, and the Indian Prophet Francis were hung, by order of General Jackson.[204]—

“Oh! what doth that vessel of darkness bear!
The silent calm of the grave is there:—
Save now,——and again, a death knell rung;
And the flap of her sails, with night fog hung.”

The late conduct of General Jackson has excited much interest, both in Europe and America. Some advocate his proceedings, and like himself, seem determined to brave the tempest which is ready to overwhelm him. That is a dear and glorious cause, which involves moral strength and physical weakness; and I should rejoice in enlisting under the banners of a virtuous man, when unjustly assailed by popular prejudice, and popular indignation. But General Jackson has violated the principles of humanity, and tarnished the glory of the nation. Whatever may be the services of our public men they must be taught that they are the servants of the {245} people, and at all times officially accountable to them. No one is disposed to deny that General Jackson has done much for the United States; but this is only one side of the subject: Julius Cesar was a celebrated general, and achieved great victories for Rome; but Julius Cesar became a tyrant.

I do not pretend to know what were the motives of General Jackson in putting to death the above mentioned Indians, who, it appears, had been decoyed into the custody of his officers, and were prisoners of war; but we have reason to believe that they were bad motives. Conscious of his high military reputation, the native ferocity of his disposition, cloaking itself under the garb of energy, burst upon these poor, ignorant savages, who, being prisoners of war, were perfectly harmless. And why was this? because they refused to answer a question which he put for the purpose of entrapping them.—_The very essence of tyranny!_

Neither General Jackson, nor the government had any more right to take the lives of these Indians, than the British, _even setting aside the idea of rebellion_, would have had to execute General Washington, had he, during the Revolutionary war, been taken prisoner. The Indians, engaged in the Seminole war, were at issue with the United States. The parties were equally independent,—their rights were equal. The law of nature is the original source of all national right, and Indian tribes are in a state of nature.

General Jackson’s conduct upon this occasion is a disgrace to the country. The act was as unmanly as it was inhuman. It may be said by ignorance, affectation, and prejudice, that Indians sometimes destroy our men when taken prisoners. What! shall we abandon the precepts of religion, the principles of humanity, and the polish of civilization, to {246} learn manners and customs in the ferocious schools of savage life? The displeasure of the American people alone can remove from themselves the disgrace, with which such conduct on the part of a public servant naturally clothes them.

As to the course which General Jackson took, relative to the execution of Arbuthnot and Ambrister, it was entirely inconsistent with that dispassionate investigation which ought ever to characterize the American Government.[205] Admitting, for the sake of argument, that this course is sanctioned by the law of nations, is this law our _only_ guide? And is this law perfect?—It is the work of man,—the work of those civilians, whose dust has long since been scattered by the winds! It is, too, the common law of independent communities. But what are they? Precisely what their courts are made of:—tyranny, intrigue, and dissipation. Oh! there is a higher rule of action than the law of nations. Our conduct should be regulated by those great and pure principles, which will stand the test of reason and conscience, both on earth and in heaven.

Why is General Jackson so fond of blood? Why so disposed to crush every forsaken individual, whom the fortune of war places in his hands? Is this _moral_ energy?—or is it a barbarous animal impulse? With the modesty of a _true_ soldier, General Jackson should have transferred to the Government his prisoners and his trophies. Time might have thrown some light upon the subject of the persons executed; and they might, at some future period, have had a fairer trial. There is reason to believe, that both General Jackson and the Court Martial were prejudiced against the prisoners. As these persons were supposed to have been the instigators of the war—a war which was, at first, so lamely {247} maintained on our part—a war which resulted in the death of some of our people, it was natural for General Jackson, and the persons composing the Court Martial, to entertain hostile feelings towards the accused. And shall prejudice and hostility be the triors in a case of life and death? This transaction too, is a disgrace to the country; and although, as Mr. Secretary Adams says, General Jackson will not, in relation to it, incur the censure of the Government, those of the people who wish to see their country exemplary in every thing, will endeavour, by condemning the act, to shield that country from reproach.

Mr. Adams’ letter to our Minister at the Court of Spain, relative to this subject, does the nation injustice; and it is surprising that it should be so much eulogized.[206] I am disposed to entertain a high opinion of the talents and patriotism of Mr. Adams; but his communication is undignified. It evinces spirit, but it is the ephemeral spirit of political paragraphists. Why does this great man condescend to flourish about “M’Gregor’s mock-patriots, and Nicholls’ negroes?” To say nothing respecting the _ostentatious threats_, which the communication contains, its pinks and posies but illy become the silvered brow of a diplomatic veteran. To threaten is the peculiar privilege of little minds. To warn with gravity, and to act with decision, become the United States in her negociations with Spain.

Admitting, as I have said, that the proceeding, relative to Arbuthnot and Ambrister, is warranted by the law of nations, yet as this law, as far as it respects the present question, is unjust and unreasonable; and as it also is grounded upon principles which, relative to expatriation, we have ever contested, both duty and policy dictate our decided opposition to it. It is a rule which originated in the {248} despotic courts of Europe; and one which Freedom detests. May not an individual expatriate himself? And if so, may he not become a citizen or subject in a foreign country? He may become a member of a savage as well as of a civilized community. And by acquiring the right of citizenship under a foreign government, an individual may attain to the distinction of a leader. By being a citizen he becomes interested in the destinies of the state, and is bound to defend its rights.

If Arbuthnot and Ambrister expatriated themselves, and united their fortunes with those of the Indians, they were, upon every view of the subject, mere prisoners of war; and as such should have been treated. By taking it for granted that they had not expatriated themselves, we act upon the ground that there can be no such principle as expatriation, and thereby do injustice to the cause of liberty, and expose our own citizens to terrible inflictions from those tyrannical governments, who advocate this side of the question.

As to General Jackson entering the territory of Spain, and taking possession of Spanish posts, it was illegal, because unnecessary; and highly improper, because not authorized by the government. The Indians were dispersed; and an immediate renewal of the war on their part was not apprehended. So far this proceeding was without a legitimate object. And if the Spanish government were to blame in relation to this war, the United States, and not General Jackson, _who was a mere servant of the people, acting under limited orders_, were to decide as to the course to be pursued.

The day after leaving Fort Plaquemine we arrived at the Balize.[207] There are here the remains of an old Spanish fort, and three or four miserable dwelling houses. The latter are occupied by pilots. The {249} place presents a most wretched aspect, being scarcely above the water, and covered with flags and reptiles. About three miles below this situation are the principal passes into the Gulf of Mexico. The water of the Mississippi, when the river is high, rushes with such force through these passes, that fresh water may be obtained several miles from the land. Old passes are frequently filled, and new ones made, by the rapid descent of the water of the river during the seasons of its rise. The coast, viewed from the Balize, presents, as far as the eye can reach, a broken and desolate aspect, reminding one of the destruction of the Antedeluvian world.

After waiting one or two days for a wind, we received a pilot, sailed through the north-east pass, and with a light breeze nearly ahead, moved slowly in a south-south-east course. We left quite a fleet of vessels at the pilot-ground, and there were, at this time, several large ships beating into the Balize. The north-east pass is not more than eight rods wide; and on both sides of it are low banks of mud. There are several other passes, which are taken by the pilots according to the wind and the draught of the vessel.

For many days we experienced light winds on our larboard bow; our progress, of course, was inconsiderable. For many days too, previous to our making the islands of Tortugas, and even after reaching the island of Cuba, our progress was completely retarded by calms and light head winds. Being in the calm latitudes at this season of the year is very unpleasant. An almost vertical sun pours his rays upon the deck, and produces an insufferable heat.

During this state of things, I may look back, for a moment, to New-Orleans. No place in the world furnishes a greater field for speculation upon physiognomy, and for reflection upon national characteristics, {250} than this city. The former is a science too much neglected. A knowledge of human nature is of consequence to all; and particularly so to the philosopher, and man of business. The human countenance is the index of the human heart. But little dependance, however, can be placed upon those rules, which relate _altogether_ to the lines of the human face. In relation to this subject men of penetration, who have acquired a habit of forming an opinion upon every stranger who presents himself, experiences, upon these occasions, a kind of inspiration, which seldom errs. This effect is not surprising, because the human countenance always expresses, both morally and physically, the ruling passions of the heart; and practice, in all sciences and arts, produces wonderful proficiency.

With respect to national characteristics, I fear that I cannot be impartial without giving offence. But the truth is as much against myself as any other person. I speak only of _national_ characteristics; of course the opinion is general, and there may be _individual_ exceptions. Besides, as to individuals, transplanting sometimes improves the original stock. This, I apprehend, is particularly the case with the English in America. My partiality, perhaps, begins to display itself. How natural is it for one to think well of his own country! Yet truth should be more dear to a man than his native land. The Americans are a mixed people; but the institutions of the country direct their affections to one common centre. They are, therefore, one people; and their principles and feelings comport with our noble systems of polity. All nations have their faults; but I think the Americans possess the greatest virtues and the fewest imperfections. I need not occupy much ground upon this subject. The most prominent nations are the best tests of national characteristics. {251} Small communities are almost innumerable; and they, generally, partake, more or less, of the dispositions of long established, and mighty sovereignties. I confine my views to the English, Irish, French, and American nations. The Irish are intelligent, hospitable, and courageous; but they are credulous, resentful, and violent in all their affections:—great virtues, and great vices characterize them. The English are sensible, generous, and brave; but they are supercilious, overbearing, and vain glorious. The French are perspicacious, enthusiastic, and intrepid; but they are fickle, vain, and, in prosperity, impertinent. The Americans seem to be a people distinct from every other.—They possess all the good qualities of the English, and they are real gentlemen in the bargain.

I now return again to the Gulf of Mexico. Here we frequently experienced heavy squalls, accompanied by severe thunder and lightning. In one instance several of our men were stricken by the latter. The squalls generally commenced at day break. Such a scene as they produce is truly sublime. Here man feels, that however small may be his merit, his nature is noble. In the midst of an apparently shoreless ocean, his little bark, tossed by the winds and waves, he is sensible of the grandeur of his temerity, and prides himself in the efficacy of his skill. It is not surprising that sailors are generous. A little mind could not exist upon the deep. Its mighty influences will either enlarge or petrify the heart:—raise the noble soul, or drive the narrow spirit into the cockboats, and creeks of the interior. The rough manners too, of the children of the sea are perfectly natural:—they have long conversed with winds and waves.

Whilst in the Gulf of Mexico, we caught a great many dolphins; and sharks frequently came around {252} our vessel. Several times, about a dozen of these voracious creatures presented themselves. Our mate caught one of them, and it measured ten feet in length. The pilotfish, which attends the shark, is only a few inches long; and like the jackall, accompanying the lion, seems to cater for prey, and to partake of the spoil. The suckerfish, frequently found on the shark, is worthy of notice. It is very small, and its colour is black. Its gills are on the top of the head, instead of being in the usual place; and the sucker itself is under the head, and has the appearance of the bars of a gridiron. Its capacity to adhere to any thing, by suction, is great. Nature seems so fond of variety, and her modes of existence appear to be so infinite, that there is much reason to deny the existence of a vacuum. The flying-fish is remarkable, for its uniting the aspect of the fish with the principal capacity of the bird. The dolphin is the implacable enemy of this fish; nature has, therefore, given it the power to fly. Whilst at sea, I witnessed an interesting chase between these two species of fish. When the dolphin, the speed of which is very great, overtakes the flying-fish, the latter rises out of the water, and descends at a considerable distance; but the dolphin, swimming on the surface, often sees its prey alight, and speedily overtakes it. The dolphin furnishes an excellent model for ship building.

Sixteen days after leaving the Balize we discovered land from the top-gallant-mast-head; and it proved to be the principal island of Tortugas. After running up within three leagues of it, we bore away, and made the island of Cuba. This is the largest of the West-India islands. Its length is about seven hundred miles; and the face of the country is mountainous. In coasting along this island we came within a league of the Moro Castle, which, together {253} with several Forts, protect the city of Havana. On all the works are mounted about one thousand cannon. The Havana is a great commercial place. It is the usual station of the principal maritime force of Spanish America, and the place of rendezvous for the vessels from the Colonies, on their homeward voyage. It is too, a place of immense wealth, and its population amounts, probably, to 80,000.

Whilst coasting along the Island of Cuba, and particularly during the evening of our arrival off the Havana, we experienced high winds. In one instance the aspect of every thing around us was black, windy, and wild; and we found it necessary to lower our topsails, and take two reefs in our mainsail. At this time there were several ships in sight; and each laboured, in darkness, her boisterous course.

The next day a land bird, of the heron species, having been driven from the coast by the late gale, sought an asylum on board of our vessel. For hours, she wandered, like the Antedeluvian dove, and found no rest for her feet. It was interestingly painful to see the exhausted bird winging her tedious way along the surface of the deep; and it spake of the hopeless spirit,—a wanderer over the fields of its own desolation.

After passing Port Matansas, we doubled Cape Florida, entered the Gulf of this name, and came in sight of the Keys, and of the principal island of Bahama. Here the Gulf stream quickened our progress about three knots per hour. The waters of this stream, influenced by the trade winds and other causes, flow through the Caribbean islands, and enter the Mexican Gulf between Cuba and the Promontory of Yucatan. Compressed by the surrounding coasts, it pursues its course between East-Florida and the Bahama Islands, and runs along the coast of North America to the Banks of Newfoundland. From thence, it passes through the Azores {254} to the south, and gradually mingles its waters with those of the ocean. Some suppose, that this impetus is preserved until the water strikes that part of the Equator from whence it commenced its course. It is probable that the trade winds operate, at first, with great violence; because, owing to the centrifugal force of the water, occasioned by the diurnal motion of the earth around its axis, the sea is elevated at the Equator, much more than at the poles.

The nearest distance of the Gulf Stream from the United States is about seventy-five miles; and its breadth is about forty miles. Such is the rapidity of this stream, that it retains a considerable degree of its tropical heat, even after reaching its most easterly point of destination. The colour of the water of the Gulf is dark, and its depth very great. This latter circumstance is, probably, occasioned by the force of the current at the bottom, and by its curvilineal form on the surface. It may be presumed, that in the _vicinity_ of the Gulf the progress of vessels, bound to the north is retarded. Some portion of the Gulf water will, by being propelled faster than that which precedes it, fly from the centre, and rebound so as to produce a counter current.

When opposite Cape Canaveral, in latitude 49, we experienced a high wind on our larboard quarter. Here we lowered our topsail, and took two reefs in our fore and mainsail. At this time there was a large English ship under our starboard bow. The next day the weather again became variable, and we experienced another squall.

As nothing worthy of remark occurred for a day or two from this period, I again suppose myself in New-Orleans, for the purpose of noticing some of the languages spoken there.

The French is the principal language spoken in this city; and it is of consequence for an American to become acquainted with it, not only because it {255} introduces him to many valuable French authors, whose genius is peculiar and interesting, but because it is the language most generally spoken throughout Europe.

The Spanish language is also much spoken in New-Orleans. This language resembles the Latin; but is inferior to it. The Emperor Charles the fifth, however, entertained a different opinion. He observed, that he would speak to his horse in German; converse in French; make love in Italian; and pray in Spanish. His partiality was very natural. He thought the latter most precise and comprehensive. The Portuguese language also is often heard in New-Orleans; and it is very much like the Spanish.

The Greek language, although so long dead, is, no doubt, the best of the known languages of the world. The Latin is nearly as good; and the English is probably not inferior to any of the others. But all languages, _abstractedly considered_, are poor:—poor as to the precision of thought, the expression of sentiment, and the harmony of diction.

The usual manner of acquiring a knowledge of foreign languages, is both unnatural and tedious. Foreign languages should be acquired precisely as we learn our native tongue. In becoming acquainted with our own language, we acquire a knowledge of language in the abstract; and this knowledge applies to all foreign languages. There must, for example, be in every language a name attached to a thing, and also a mode of conveying an idea of the qualities of that thing. The particular meaning of a word, the manner of its pronunciation, the combinations of the several necessary parts of speech, and other peculiarities of language, depend upon compact;—upon the common consent of each distinct people. Hence the great diversity of languages.

{256} To become what is generally understood by the phrase a linguist, it is necessary to possess only a common understanding, accompanied by a good memory and by application; but to become a real philological scholar requires genius.

I now return to the vessel, and find her in the latitude of Cape Fear. Here we experienced a very heavy squall, took in several of our sails, lowered our main peak, and scud. The scene was highly interesting. At this time a little black schooner from Bassatere hurried by us, like the messenger of death, and our captain hailed her, through night. The sea laboured in wrath, and the moon, partially covered by a cloud, looked at the storm askance.

The next day the weather was calm, and for several succeeding evenings delightful. During these, there were many vessels in sight, and we spoke the brig Commerce.

From Cape Hatteras to the latitude of 40, we experienced very favourable winds; and during most of the time progressed at the rate of ten knots per hour. I now considered my course nearly finished; and it was natural for me to reflect upon the voyage of _human life_. The ocean is, in many respects, a true emblem of man’s probationary state.—Its rolling waves resemble successive generations; its storms and calms remind him of human vicissitudes; the rocks of its coasts speak of the stability of virtue; and its havens direct the thoughts to the security and peace of a better world.

After a passage of thirty days, I arrived at Boston, immediately proceeded to New-Hampshire, and there found my friends in the enjoyment of that protection, which results from the wisdom of our laws, when aided by the approbation of a virtuous community.

THE END

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Footnote 1:

These biographical details are from Bell, _Bench and Bar of
New-Hampshire_ (Boston, 1894), p. 343.

Footnote 2:

This description of the natives is given as they were found in 1805.
How far they have since become conformed to civilized life, the author
is unable to say.—BUTTRICK.

Footnote 3:

For a description of Albany written a few years later, see Evans’s
_Tour, post_.

Buttrick followed the Genesee Road, the well-established route to Lake
Erie. In 1794 the legislature had appropriated money for the
construction of a road six rods wide from old Fort Schuyler (Utica) to
the Genesee River at Canawagus (Avon, twenty-seven miles south of Lake
Ontario), passing the outlets of Cayuga, Seneca, and Canandaigua
lakes. Being but little better than an Indian path in 1797, lotteries
were authorized for its improvement. In 1799 a stage began to run over
the road, and the following year it was made into a turnpike. A
highway was opened the same year from the Genesee River to Buffalo,
thus completing the connection between Albany and Lake Erie.—ED.

Footnote 4:

Old Fort Schuyler was erected upon the present site of Utica during
the French and Indian War (1758), for the defense of the frontier, but
was not maintained after the Treaty of Paris. The village was first
settled in 1787–88, its importance dating from the construction of the
Genesee or State Road. It obtained a city charter in 1832.

The site of Canandaigua, at the foot of Canandaigua Lake, was selected
by Oliver Phelps and Nathaniel Gorham for the principal town of their
purchase; they and a company of associates having bought from
Massachusetts (1788) her pre-emption rights to land in
New-York—namely, to all territory west of a line drawn through Seneca
Lake. The village was surveyed and opened for settlement in 1789, and
the following year contained eighteen families and a hundred other
persons.

Bloomfield, the location of an old Seneca village, is nine miles
north-west of Canandaigua, and was surveyed and settled at the same
time, chiefly by emigrants from Sheffield, Mass.—ED.

Footnote 5:

Batavia bore the same relation to the Holland Purchase that
Canandaigua bore to that of Phelps and Gorham. These proprietors
extinguished the Indian title to their land only as far,
approximately, as the Genesee River. Being unable to pay for the
remainder, they returned it to Massachusetts (March, 1791), which, two
days later, resold it to Robert Morris. He, in turn, sold to a company
of associates in Amsterdam (1793), and the tract became known as the
Holland Purchase. The Holland Company marked off a village and opened
a land office (October, 1800) at Batavia, in an unsettled wilderness
fifty miles west of Canandaigua. Two years later they surveyed and
placed upon the market a second village, called by them New Amsterdam,
and located at the mouth of Buffalo Creek. This stream being well
known on the frontier, the name was transferred to the settlement, and
“New Amsterdam” never came into general use. Buffalo received a
charter in 1813. See Turner, _History of the Holland Purchase_
(Buffalo, 1850).—ED.

Footnote 6:

Old Fort Erie, at the head of Niagara River, on its western bank, was
built by the English in 1764. The location proving unsatisfactory, a
new fort farther back from the river was begun in 1805, and completed
at the outbreak of the War of 1812–15. This was captured by the
Americans, July 3, 1814. Although successfully resisting the siege of
the British during August following, the fort was blown up in
September and the troops retired to Buffalo. It was never rebuilt.—ED.

Footnote 7:

General Isaac Brock, born in Guernsey in 1760, entered the English
army, and after serving in Jamaica and Barbados, came to Canada in
1802. He was placed in command at Fort Niagara, and in 1811 was
appointed lieutenant-governor of Upper Canada. Immediately upon the
outbreak of the War of 1812–15, he ordered an attack upon Mackinac,
and marched with the main body of his troops to Detroit, receiving
Hull’s surrender in August, 1812. Brock planned a most efficient
defense of Upper Canada, but was killed in the American attack on
Queenstown (October, 1812). Perhaps no English officer has been more
beloved by the people of Upper Canada; several towns have been named
in his honor, and a monument was erected to him on Queenstown
Heights.—ED.

Footnote 8:

When the English withdrew from Fort Niagara, in accordance with the
provisions of Jay’s Treaty, they constructed this fort directly across
the river. It was captured by the Americans (May 27, 1813), but
abandoned at the end of the year. After the War of 1812–15 it was
dismantled and allowed to fall into decay.—ED.

Footnote 9:

For the early history of Fort Niagara, see Long’s _Voyages_, volume ii
of our series, note 19.—ED.

Footnote 10:

The Black Rock ferry across the Niagara River was in existence as
early as 1796, and was much used for transporting merchandise,
especially salt. It owed its name to the low black rock about a
hundred feet broad, from which teams entered the ferry. Passing into
the control of the state in 1802, the ferry continued to run until
1824, when the harbor was destroyed and the black rock blown up in the
construction of the Erie Canal. The village of Black Rock was laid out
in 1804, but grew very slowly, and in 1853 was incorporated in the
city of Buffalo.—ED.

Footnote 11:

For notes on the places mentioned in this paragraph, see A. Michaux’s
_Travels_, volume iii of our series: Pittsburg, note 11; Wheeling,
note 15; Marietta, note 16; Cuming’s _Tour_, volume iv of our series:
Cincinnati, note 166; Croghan’s _Journals_, volume i of our series:
Louisville, note 106; F. A. Michaux’s _Travels_, volume iii of our
series: Frankfort, note 39.—ED.

Footnote 12:

This village was probably on the Allegheny reservation—one of the ten
reservations retained by the Seneca Indians when the Holland Company
in 1797 extinguished their title. It lay along the Allegheny River,
extending from the Pennsylvania line north-eastward about twenty-five
miles.—ED.

Footnote 13:

The Great Western Turnpike was the second road leading into western
New-York. Unlike the Genesee Road, it was built by private companies
and in several sections. The First Great Western Turnpike was built
from Albany to Cherry Valley in 1802. At the time of Buttrick’s voyage
it had been extended by the fourth Great Western Turnpike Company as
far as Homer, a hundred and fifty miles from Albany. It was later
continued past the head of Cayuga and Seneca lakes, and under the Lake
Erie and Oil Spring Turnpike Company was completed to Lake Erie,
terminating just north of the Pennsylvania boundary line.—ED.

Footnote 14:

A small settlement was begun at Olean Point in 1804. For some time its
projectors expected it to become an important place on the route of
Western immigration; on one occasion two thousand people are said to
have collected there, while waiting for navigation to open. But with
the construction of the Erie Canal, the Allegheny route to the West
was abandoned and Olean lay dormant, until the development of the oil
interests in south-western New-York gave it new life.—ED.

Footnote 15:

The hard times following the War of 1812–15 caused a great increase in
immigration from New-England, especially Maine. The “Ohio fever”
became a well-known expression for this desire to move West, and in
the years 1815–16 it deprived Maine of fifteen thousand of her
inhabitants. See Chamberlain, _Maine: Her Place in History_ (Augusta,
1877).—ED.

Footnote 16:

For the early history of Shippingsport, see Cuming’s _Tour_, volume iv
of our series, note 171.—ED.

Footnote 17:

A brief account of New Madrid may be found in Cuming’s _Tour_, vol. iv
of our series, note 185.

For a description of an earthquake on the Mississippi River, see
Bradbury’s _Travels_, vol. v of our series, pp. 204–210.—ED.

Footnote 18:

For the early history of Natchez, consult F. A. Michaux’s _Travels_,
vol. iii of our series, note 53.—ED.

Footnote 19:

Lake Pontchartrain was discovered by Iberville on his exploring
expedition in 1699, and named in honor of Count Pontchartrain,
chancellor of France under Louis XIV.—ED.

Footnote 20:

For the Choctaw Indians, see Cuming’s _Tour_, volume iv of our series,
note 187.—ED.

Footnote 21:

This road extended from Columbia, Tennessee, forty-five miles
south-west of Nashville to Madisonville, Louisiana, two miles north of
Lake Pontchartrain. It was begun under the direction of the war
department (March, 1816), and was one of three roads constructed about
that time by United States troops.—ED.

Footnote 22:

Beginning with the Mississippi River at 34° 30′, this boundary was an
artificial line drawn south-east to Noosacheahn Creek, thence
following that creek to the Tombigbee River.—ED.

Footnote 23:

For further information on the customs of the Chickasaw and Choctaw
Indians, consult Adair, American Indians (London, 1775); Pickett,
_History of Alabama_ (Charleston, 1851).—ED.

Footnote 24:

A brief account of Nashville and Lexington may be found in A.
Michaux’s _Travels_, vol. iii of our series, notes 28, 103.—ED.

Footnote 25:

Madison, on the Ohio River fifty miles above Louisville and the
county-seat of Jefferson County, Indiana, was settled in 1808. A
description of its appearance in 1816 states that it contained three
or four brick houses, twenty frame houses, and about a hundred
cabins.—ED.

Footnote 26:

Lower Sandusky, at the head of navigation of the Sandusky River, was
until Wayne’s victory at Fallen Timbers, an important Wyandot village.
A fort was built there during the War of 1812–15, for the history of
which see Evans’s _Tour, post_, note 52. From the close of the war the
growth of settlement was continuous. About 1850 the name of the town
was changed to Fremont, in honor of the Rocky Mountain explorer.—ED.

Footnote 27:

This village was laid out in 1816 at the mouth of Cold Creek, three
miles west of Sandusky City. It developed but slowly, owing to the
unhealthfulness of the climate; see Flint’s _Letters_, vol. ix of our
series. Flour mills were constructed in 1833, and it became a centre
for the industry in Ohio.—ED.

Footnote 28:

President Monroe made two tours. On the first, lasting from May to the
middle of September, 1817, he visited the New-England States,
journeyed thence through New-York to Niagara, west to Detroit, and
returned to Washington via Zanesville and Pittsburg. On the second,
undertaken in 1819, he went as far south as Augusta, Georgia, passed
through the Cherokee region to Nashville, and thence to Louisville and
Lexington.—ED.

Footnote 29:

Fort Malden, or Amherstburg, on the Canadian shore sixteen miles south
of Detroit, was established by the British in 1798, soon after they
had evacuated Detroit in accordance with the terms of Jay’s Treaty.
During the War of 1812–15, it was occupied by General Proctor until
Perry’s naval victory (September, 1813) compelled him to retreat.
Before leaving, he set fire to the fort and it was not rebuilt until
1839.—ED.

Footnote 30:

For the early history of Detroit, see Croghan’s _Journals_, vol. i of
our series, note 18.—ED.

Footnote 31:

An account of these battles is given in Evans’s _Tour, post_, note
63.—ED.

Footnote 32:

Buttrick was now in the Black Swamp; for a description of which, see
Evans’s _Tour, post_.—ED.

Footnote 33:

General Wayne built a fort at Greenville, seventy miles north of
Cincinnati, in December, 1793, and marched thence against the Indians.
He made it his headquarters after the victory at Fallen Timbers, and
there (August, 1795), the treaty of peace was signed. The village was
laid out in 1808.—ED.

Footnote 34:

Portland, falling within the Connecticut “firelands,” was laid out by
Zalmon Wildman of Danbury, Connecticut, in 1816, in the centre of his
tract. A few years later the plat was enlarged and the name changed to
Sandusky City.—ED.

Footnote 35:

This island, twelve miles north-west of Sandusky City, owed its first
name to a French Indian trader called Cunningham, who lived there from
1808 to 1812. It contained few inhabitants—only six acres having been
cleared—when in 1833 the greater part of it was purchased by Datus and
Irad Kelley. In 1840 the name was by legislative enactment changed to
Kelley’s Island.—ED.

Footnote 36:

It is an inflammation of the conjunctiva, with a purulent
discharge.—ED.

Footnote 37:

Geneva was originally the site of a populous Seneca village. Lying
within the Phelps and Gorham Purchase, it was surveyed by them in
1789; settlement began immediately, the village containing fifteen
houses in 1791. In 1797 a newspaper, _Ontario Gazette and Genesee
Advertiser_, was established. Geneva was incorporated, June, 1812.—ED.

Footnote 38:

The Erie Canal was constructed in three sections; the middle section,
extending from Seneca River to Utica, being completed by 1820. The
history of the construction of this canal is most interesting. As
early as 1808 the legislature ordered a survey of a feasible route.
Two years later a board of canal commissioners was established.
Unsuccessful in appealing to the national government for aid, DeWitt
Clinton presented an elaborate memorial to the legislature (1816),
signed also by the other commissioners. The bill authorizing its
construction was passed in April, 1817, and work was begun at Rome on
July 4 following. It was completed in 1825 and opened with much
ceremony.—ED.

Footnote 39:

Here was at one time an important Mohawk village, the capital of the
Five Nations. In 1662 Van Curler and certain other Dutchmen in Albany
and Renselaerswyck bought the land from the Mohawk and founded the
present city of Schenectady. Being a frontier town, it suffered
severely in the early Indian wars, and in February, 1690, a general
massacre of the inhabitants occurred.—ED.

Footnote 40:

Amherst, on the Souhegan River, twenty-eight miles south of Concord,
is situated on the tract of land granted by the general court of
Massachusetts (1733), to the families of soldiers who had served in
King Philip’s War (1674–76). It was incorporated in 1760, and named in
honor of Lord Jeffrey Amherst, at that time commander general in
America.—ED.

Footnote 41:

Milford is on the Souhegan, five miles south-west of Amherst. It is
located partly on the Amherst Grant, partly on the Duxbury School Farm
(land granted to Duxbury by the general court of Massachusetts to aid
in establishing schools). Settlement was begun about 1750, and the
town was incorporated in January, 1794.—ED.

Footnote 42:

Milton is a misprint for Wilton, a town on the Souhegan, nine miles
west of Amherst.

Temple is three miles west of Wilton.—ED.

Footnote 43:

Keene, fifty-five miles south-west of Concord, has become one of the
most important manufacturing cities in New-Hampshire. It was first
settled in 1734; but Indian attacks becoming frequent, was abandoned
from 1747 to 1753.

Marlborough, five miles south-east of Keene, is part of a grant made
by Massachusetts (1751), to Timothy Dwight and sixty-one
associates.—ED.

Footnote 44:

Fort Dummer was erected on the present site of Brattleborough as early
as 1724. The land in that region was granted by George II (1753) to
certain men of Massachusetts, among them William Brattle, after whom
the town was named.—ED.

Footnote 45:

From Brattleborough to Albany, Evans followed a much travelled route.
As early as 1774, a road had been made from Albany to Bennington,
thence directly east for forty miles to Brattleborough. A line of
stages was established in 1814, which made the trip between the two
places in one day. It was considered the easiest and safest route to
Boston.—ED.

Footnote 46:

A play written by Henry Brooke (1706–83), containing reflections on
the Prime Minister (Robert Walpole). It was not allowed to be put on
the stage in 1739, but later was printed by the author, the Prince of
Wales subscribing for four hundred copies. Dr. Johnson vindicated it
and scored the government for attempting its suppression.—ED.

Footnote 47:

Bennington was the first township granted within the present state of
Vermont, being chartered by Benning Wentworth, governor of
New-Hampshire, in 1749. Settlement was not begun, however, until the
fall of 1761.—ED.

Footnote 48:

The Great Western Turnpike did not pass through Schenectady, but was
the one that led to Cherry Valley, while the Schenectady road
connected with the state road, which extended to Buffalo. Strictly
speaking, the two roads did not meet but ran nearly parallel to Lake
Erie; however, a turnpike leading from Cherry Valley to Saline
(Syracuse), intersected the state road at about the distance stated.
Evans took this path. For the Great Western and State roads, see
Buttrick’s _Voyages_, _ante_, notes 2 and 12.—ED.

Footnote 49:

For a brief account of the Erie Canal, see Buttrick’s _Voyages_,
_ante_, note 37.—ED.

Footnote 50:

Wayne’s campaign, 1793–94, terminated in victory at the decisive
battle of Fallen Timbers (August 20, 1794), where the confederated
Indians under Little Turtle were completely routed.—ED.

Footnote 51:

Evans was now passing through the settlements of the Schoharie and
upper Susquehanna valleys. They had constituted the western frontier
of New-York in the period of the Revolutionary War, and in consequence
had borne the brunt of the Iroquois and Loyalist attacks under the
leadership of Joseph Brant. The Susquehanna Valley was virtually
reconverted into a wilderness, the most important single attack being
the Cherry Valley massacre, November 11, 1778. The first settlers had
been chiefly Palatine Germans and Scotch-Irish; those that repeopled
the country after the war were almost entirely from New-England. See
Halsey, _Old New-York Frontier_ (New-York, 1901).—ED.

Footnote 52:

A fortified town on the Dniester in Bessarabia, Russia, where Charles
XII took refuge after the battle of Poltowa.—ED.

Footnote 53:

At Onondaga village was formerly located the council house of the Six
Nations. In the treaty of Fort Stanwix (1788) this village was
retained as a reservation; but ten years later a large part of it was
sold to the state, and the town of Onondaga was incorporated
thereon.—ED.

Footnote 54:

Evans was now in the military district. The legislature (1789) had set
aside 1,680,000 acres as bounty land for the soldiers of the
Revolutionary War. The tract extended from the eastern border of
Onondaga County to Seneca Lake, and was surveyed into twenty-eight
townships, upon which the governor bestowed classical names.—ED.

Footnote 55:

The Housatonic Indians who had formed a mission settlement at
Stockbridge, Massachusetts, were granted a township by the Oneida—the
present New Stockbridge, Madison County. Thither, immediately after
the Revolutionary War, they removed to the number of about four
hundred. The Brothertown Indians had preceded them. In 1774 the Oneida
had given to the remnant of Narragansetts, Pequots, and other tribes
living for the most part at Montville and Farmington, Connecticut, a
piece of land fourteen miles south of the present Utica. They
emigrated with their pastor and organized a new tribe, the Brothertown
Indians. Both tribes later removed to Wisconsin, the Stockbridge
Indians settling at South Kaukauna on Fox River (1822–29), and the
Brothertown Indians on the east side of Lake Winnebago a few years
later. See Davidson, _In Unnamed Wisconsin_ (Milwaukee, 1895).—ED.

Footnote 56:

At Geneva, Evans left the military district and entered the Phelps and
Gorham Purchase. For a brief account of this tract and the towns
located upon it, see Buttrick’s _Voyages_, _ante_, notes 3 and 36.—ED.