Chapter XI: Preface (7)

Near the Swiss settlement I met with many trees and bushes quite new to me. The thorn bush here produces thorns, which would answer the purpose of nails. They are three inches long, and so sharp and hard that they can be pressed, with the hand, through an inch board. The buck eye, of which I have spoken, is, probably, the horse chesnut of Europe. The magnolia bears blossoms very beautiful and fragrant. The coffee tree resembles the black oak, and bears a pod enclosing a seed, of which a drink is made, not unlike coffee. The papaw resembles the locust, or custard apple tree, and bears a pod, containing several very rich kernels, of the size and colour of a tamarind.[167]

The principal river in Indiana is the Wabash. The banks of this river are high and fertile, and its aspect very beautiful. It is navigable, at certain seasons of the year, upwards of six hundred miles. White, Theakiki and Calumet rivers are its greatest tributaries.[168]

{180} Just above Vincennes is Fort Knox, and a little above the latter are situated the Watenaus.[169] The Pootewatomies are settled not far from the southerly end of Lake Michigan. It may here be observed, that the Indians of North America, especially those who reside within the boundaries of the United States, are continually changing their place of residence; that they divide their tribes into many small societies, and each of these occupy one village. These societies, although of the same tribe, frequently acquire a new name. Hence arise, in part, the almost innumerable number of names, which suggest the idea of new tribes. Different names too, are sometimes given to the same tribe or society. But the tribes of the north and west are still very numerous. It has been supposed that our government is too desirous of obtaining Indian lands upon fair purchase. As to this particular I can only say, that many tracts which are sold, are not worth a cent to their occupants, in as much as they have ceased to be good hunting grounds, and the owners are about to abandon them.

The river Tippecanoe is a branch of the Wabash. It is well known that in 1811 a bloody battle was fought on the former, between the Americans and Indians.[170] The history of this engagement is very interesting. It is worth one’s while to recur to it. Our troops, headed by the intrepid Harrison, penetrated through a dreary wilderness for the purpose of destroying the Town of the Prophet, who, together with Tecumseh, a brother of his, had been endeavouring to excite, in several tribes of Indians, hostile feelings towards the United States. The troops of Harrison were, during their march, surrounded and menaced by many hostile tribes. After arriving at their place of destination, they encamped for the night. Just before daylight the {181} next morning, a furious and determined onset was made by the Indians, and a bloody contest ensued. Before our troops could form, there were engagements, man to man, in the tents. The tawny Indian and the hale soldier grappled for mastery. The march of the Americans had been very laborious and fatiguing; and both by day and by night the strictest watch, and the utmost readiness for action had been maintained. But flesh and blood must have repose. The soldier slept upon his arms. He saw the approach of the savage, but awaking, found it was a dream. He slept, and dreamed again;—he awoke no more:—some of our troops were found dead, and even scalped in their tents. This was a night full of horror. It was dark and rainy, and the air was rended by savage yells.

The vigilant Harrison was up, and giving orders, just as the attack commenced. Our officers and men quickly stepped to their posts. In their way they met the savage foe, and contended with him in darkness. The General ordered all his fires to be immediately extinguished; his troops were soon formed, and the contest was, for some time, maintained with unabated fury. The result is well known.

Those of our countrymen, who fell in this engagement, deserve our grateful remembrance; and those who survived it should be rewarded.

After the battle the wounded suffered exceedingly. Carried in waggons over so rough a way, their ligatures were loosened, and death daily lightened the load. In this contest the renowned 4th regiment breasted, with an immoveable aspect, the fury of the savages; and thereby saved from destruction the rest of the troops. Many of the militia, thus supported, behaved well; but some of them fled, like whipp’d curs, under the baggage waggons.

{182} Colonel Davies,[171] who fell upon this sanguinary field, possessed a high military genius. His enthusiasm was lofty; and had he survived this bloody conflict, the last war would, probably, have felt his giant energies. Other great souls fell on this trying night; but my humble records cannot do them justice.

Near the head waters of the Wabash some of the Kickapoos are settled; and here too the Shawanese have some of their hunting grounds.[172] This last idea suggests the subject of Zoology. There is no topic in nature more interesting than this. The great variety of species which this genius presents, and the dispositions peculiar to each, render this subject an inexhaustible source of instruction and entertainment. From the animal world, man may derive important lessons in relation to industry, economy and perseverance. Indeed, here are displayed all the passions and affections incident to human nature;—all that is exalted, and all that is mean:—the generous courage of the lion, the selfish cunning of the fox, the ferocity of the bull dog, and the fawning of the spaniel. Here is a fund of simile illustrative of dispositions, manners, and morals, which are exceedingly forcible.

The relations of this subject are too numerous for incidental remark. Unless the whole of it is embraced, one hardly knows where to begin, or where to leave off. That part of natural philosophy, which relates to the animal and vegetable worlds, have an intimate connexion with moral nature. The whole creation presents to the human mind the most engaging subjects of contemplation;—subjects which speak to his heart, and eloquently persuade him to love and adore his Heavenly Father. The Scriptures derive from this source moral and religious illustrations, which are truly impressive: In the 80th {183} Psalm the Deity speaks of his chosen people under the similitude of a vine brought out of Egypt; and on account of transgression, “the boar out of the wood doth waste it, and the wild beast of the field doth devour it.” David, in representing the happiness, security, and comfort of a christian spirit, exclaims, “the sparrow hath found an house, and the swallow a nest for herself;—even thine altars, O Lord of hosts!” And in speaking of the universal care of Providence, he says, “He giveth to the beast his food, and to the young ravens which cry.” Jeremiah too, in censuring the Jews for their insensibility and impenitence, declares, “yea, the stork in the heaven knoweth her appointed times; and the turtle, and the crane, and the swallow, observe the time of _their_ coming: but my people know not the judgment of the Lord.” Lastly, how _supremely_ interesting, in view of the innocence of the lamb, is the exclamation, “Behold the Lamb of God which taketh away the sins of the world!” The Author of the Scriptures is, indeed, the great God of nature; and in his Word, he has employed that wonderful pencil, with which he has garnished the heavens.

The opossum of Indiana is said to possess peculiar qualities. This animal has ever excited the attention of naturalists, by its extraordinary means of cherishing and securing its young. Under the belly of the opossum is a bag, composed of a thick skin completely lined with soft fur, and this skin fully covers the animal’s teats. Into this bag the young of the opossum lie; and, in a time of danger, the parent closes this bag, the young hang upon her teats, and in this situation she endeavours to escape from her pursuers.

It is well known that the opossum, at its birth, is remarkably small; but the account which I received {184} from an intelligent farmer of Indiana, in relation to this particular, is almost incredible. This account, however, seems to be supported, analogically, by the testimony of naturalists. The young of the marmose, a species of opossum, is, when first born, not larger than a bean. This animal has two longitudinal folds of skin, near the thighs, in which her young are comfortably kept until they acquire strength enough to take care of themselves.

The Indiana planter says, that the young of the real opossum has been found, in the bag described, not larger than a grain of barley. We may here inquire, in what way the opossum is propagated? The above account of the young of the opossum is not absolutely incredible. Nature’s modes of production are astonishingly various. Aristotle says, that she abhors a vacuum; and certain it is, that she dislikes similarity. Some of her animated existences she produces through the instrumentality of one sex, some of two, some of three, and some without any sex. The snail is an hermaphrodite; and some shell-animals in the East-Indies require, in order to their production, the union of three individuals. The polypus is very prolific, and yet is destitute of sexual distinction. Upon its body appear protuberances, similar to buds upon trees, and these are the real animal in miniature. Whilst in this state, they are nourished, apparently, as buds are nourished by sap, and when they are capable of taking care of themselves, they fall off like ripe fruit.

Two other peculiarities of the opossum are its dread of water, and indifference to fire. It is said that this animal, upon being slightly stricken, pretends to be dead; and continues to appear so even when its paws are burning off; but when put into water it immediately becomes alarmed, and struggles to save itself. Naturalists say, that this animal subsists, principally, upon birds.

{185} Leaving the state of Indiana, I passed into the Illinois Territory. This territory is generally level, but I think it more diversified than Indiana. The Illinois Territory is of immense extent. It is bounded on the east, by Lake Michigan and Indiana; on the south, by the Ohio river; on the south-west and west, by the Mississippi; on the north by Lake Superior; on the north-west by the Lake of the Woods; and west-south-west, by the most northern source of the Mississippi. It constitutes the whole of the North-West Territory, excepting Ohio, Michigan, and Indiana, and contains about 200,000 square miles, exclusive of the waters of Lake Superior and Michigan.

The meadows on the river Illinois are very extensive. The aspect of the river is expansive and gentle; and at its confluence with the Mississippi, it is about four hundred yards wide. The other principal rivers in this territory, are the Ouisconsin, and Fox rivers. The former runs very near Fox river, which enters Lake Winnebago. This Lake is the nearest average point of communication between the waters of the St. Lawrence, and the Gulf of Mexico. On the Illinois river, there is pit coal, salt springs, and in other parts of the territory, lead and copper mines. Between the rivers Kaskaskias, and Illinois, there is an extensive tract of rich land, which terminates in a high ridge. In this fertile vale are a number of small French villages.[173]

There is a communication, between the Illinois river and Lake Michigan, by the way of Chicago river, and two small portages.[174] The Illinois strikes the Mississippi about twenty miles above the Missouri, and its principal branch runs in the direction of Detroit.[175]

The principal towns in the Illinois Territory are Kaskaskia, Cohokia, and Goshen.[176] Shawne town {186} lies on the Ohio, and is an inconsiderable place.[177] Here are several taverns, a bake-house, and a few huts. Some of the settlements in Illinois are ancient, and very considerable.

Formerly there were about twenty tribes of Indians inhabiting the Illinois Territory; and a large proportion of the lands here still belong to them. The Winnebagoes still reside on Fox river; the Saukies on the upper part of the Ouisconsin; and the Ottiganmies near its mouth.[178]

Fort Massac is situated in Illinois, near the mouth of the Ohio.[179] Its site is elevated; but the adjacent country is frequently overflown.

The Illinois Territory possesses a fine climate, a variety of rich soils, and many peculiarities, which are calculated to render her, at some future period, a very distinguished state.

About ten miles beyond Cumberland river, on the Ohio, is the river Tennessee. This river finds its most remote sources in Virginia, passes through the state of Tennessee from east to west, and in its course enters the State of Mississippi. This is the largest source of the Ohio. It pursues its course about one thousand miles before it enters the Ohio, and at its junction with it, its width is about six hundred yards. It is navigable, for the largest vessels, to the Muscle Shoals, a distance of two hundred and fifty miles. These shoals are about twenty miles in length; but the navigation here may be easily improved.[180]

At no far distant period, a considerable part of the produce of the Ohio, and its tributaries, will, probably, find a market in West-Florida, instead of New-Orleans. This will be more particularly the case, should Pensacola become the property of the United States; and of this event there can be no doubt. It will soon become ours by purchase, or by {187} conquest. For an honest purpose Spain, or her secret ally, will not wish to own it; she will, therefore, forfeit it by transgression, or when it shall become useless to her in this respect, she will sell it. There can be no doubt, that, ere long, East-Florida, and that part of West-Florida which belongs to Spain, will become ours.[181]

Pensacola, Mobile, and other places on the coast of West-Florida will soon become places of immense trade. The great cause of the business and wealth of New-Orleans, is the union, which there takes place, between a vast inland and foreign commerce. Such a union at Pensacola, or Mobile would be much more advantageous. The planters on the Ohio and its waters, could carry their produce to these markets at much less expense; and the shipper could here freight vessels for its exportation at a lower rate.

Boats on the Ohio, instead of passing into the Mississippi, may ascend the Tennessee as far as the Muscle Shoals, or within fifty miles of them, and then entering the Tombecbee by a canal, which may easily be made, pass down to Mobile. The current of the Tennessee to the Muscle Shoals is gentle, and boats may be pushed up the stream without much expense. Coosee river, a branch of the Alabama, also approaches very near to the Tennessee; and from the Alabama to the river Perdido, near Pensacola, the distance is very small.

If these ideas are correct, the trade of New-Orleans, both foreign and domestic, will not increase so rapidly as might otherwise be expected. It is well known, that the expense attending the navigation of vessels up the Mississippi to New-Orleans, and in passing from thence to the mouth of the river, is frequently great. Vessels are sometimes from thirty to sixty days in ascending this river to the city; and in descending it the detention, both on the {188} river and at the pilot-ground, near its entrance into the Gulf of Mexico, is often considerable. Besides, the danger attending this navigation is far from being small.

Should the produce of that part of the Western Country, which lies on the Ohio, pass into the Tombecbee and Alabama rivers, Mobile will rapidly increase; and should the United States acquire a right to Pensacola, it will probably become, in time, one of the greatest commercial places in the world. No maritime city will, in this event, possess a back country so extensive, rich, and populous; and none more completely combine the energies of inland, and foreign commerce. The harbour of Pensacola is one of the best in the world.

Before I leave the Ohio, it may be well for me to introduce a general idea of the courses of this river. Its minor sinuosities are too numerous to mention. From Pittsburg, this river proceeds in a north-west course about thirty miles;—west-south-west, five hundred miles;—south-west, one hundred and seventy miles;—west, two hundred and eighty miles;—south-west, one hundred and eighty miles;—and the residue of the distance, west-south-west.

The Ohio is a wonderful river. Its utility, and beauty are highly conspicuous. Its banks, where not cultivated, are covered with a thick growth of trees, and bushes, which, bending over the water, yield a prospect at once serene and rich. Some of the banks, especially on the upper parts of the river, are covered with lofty forests of sycamores.

The fish in this river are of various kinds; among which is the catfish, weighing from five to one hundred pounds. The fish in the western waters are generally very fat.

Whilst on the Ohio, and near the mouth of the Cumberland, I witnessed a deer hunt, if it may so {189} be called, which excited no little sensibility. Several keels were passing silently down the current. It was noon day, and the river was full, expansive, and calm. The men on board of the boats espied, a mile ahead, several deer swimming across the river. One of the deer had proceeded nearly half way across, when the skiffs belonging to two of the keels were manned, and went in pursuit of him. Each skiff contained two oars-men, and one in the bows with a boat hook. The rival skiffs ploughed through the silver stream. The deer retreated towards the wood; but one of the boats outsped him. He was now between two enemies. The scene was interesting: I almost prayed for his rescue. For twenty minutes the fate of this guileless animal was doubtful. The calm which prevailed seemed to listen to the dashing oar, the successless blow, and the almost breathless efforts of the poor deer. At length all was silent; the boats were on their return;—no deer was seen in the river. The tired, yet sprightly oar, told the tale of death; and nature, for a moment, seemed to darken on the scene.

The deer was a buck, two years old, remarkably large, and elegantly proportioned. When I beheld this bleeding victim, and heard the boatmen’s song of triumph, my heart involuntarily exclaimed, if men must butcher, for Heaven’s sake, let them not do it in mirth!

Viewing the Mississippi from the banks of the Ohio, its appearance is narrow, and confined; but it is, generally, much wider, and in many places expansive and elegant.

All the sources of the Mississippi, above the Ohio, are not yet known. The Missouri, however, is, no doubt, its largest tributary, and perhaps its main branch. The principal source of the Mississippi above the Missouri appears to proceed from Bear lake.

{190} The river Missouri is several thousand miles in length, and runs in a direction north of west. This part of the country has been explored by order of the American Government; but so vast is it, that many years must elapse, and much population be introduced into it, before information, to be fully depended upon, can be obtained respecting it. We have, by the efforts of Lewis and Clark,[182] and other hardy spirits, obtained some general ideas respecting the vast tract of country, between the mouth of the Missouri and the Pacific Ocean, which will assist us in making more particular discoveries; but at present, caution should be exercised in relation to every record which is made upon this subject. The American people are considerably interested in it, and, of course, will be disposed to believe every assertion in favour of the country. Our government, it appears, are preparing for several expeditions into the interior of the Louisiana purchase. It certainly is well to be engaged, during the present season of tranquillity, in ascertaining our boundaries; in order that our resources may be known, and that, having the whole state of the nation before us, we may know what policy to pursue towards its respective parts, how to guard against evils which may be apprehended, and to promote interests which may present themselves to our view.

The principal town in the Missouri Territory is St. Louis. This town is very pleasantly situated, about fifteen miles below the river Missouri, and contains two or three hundred houses. St. Genevieve is situated about seventy miles below St. Louis.[183] Near this place are inexhaustible lead mines. St. Louis is rapidly increasing, and is the centre of the fur trade, west of the Mississippi. It is probable that the country west of the river Missouri is elevated and broken, and contains a great variety of ores. It is probably too, a very rich fur country.

{191} How far the Louisiana purchase will ultimately prove beneficial to our country, time alone can determine. It was certainly of consequence to us to possess the right of deposit at New-Orleans; and this, it is presumed, might have been acquired without a purchase of the soil. We were rich enough in territory, and in every other physical means of rendering ourselves a great and a happy people. I am aware, however, that wealth is beneficial, if it does not corrupt. In the hands of the virtuous, it is a means of doing good.

I am also sensible that there was a powerful motive for the purchase of the soil, in relation to a change of government in the city of New-Orleans. To this place the people of the west would, as a matter of course, resort for a market. In relation to this particular, lies the principal motive, and the principal objection with respect to the purchase; and whether it shall prove beneficial or otherwise, depends upon ourselves. If the manners of this city shall not be improved by our own population, who may emigrate thither, where will be the moral advantage of the purchase? Indeed will not our citizens, by its being their own territory, more readily imbibe, and more freely communicate the corrupt practices of this place? But, if by the praiseworthy conduct of our citizens residing in New-Orleans, immorality shall be checked, and good principles introduced, then, indeed, it will prove a purchase, not only for our country, but for mankind. Should this be the case, those demoralizing effects, which could not but have been apprehended from the intercourse between our citizens and the mixed multitudes of Louisiana, will not only be removed, but in the place of these exotic weeds will flourish our own indiginous plants. There were, no doubt, other motives for the purchase, but whether they ought {192} to have operated under such a political system as ours is questionable.

The United States resemble, in many particulars of their history, the Jewish nation; and it is not improper to say that we are a peculiar people. We seem to be treading in every direction, upon the heels of the savages: they are receding, and we are following them.—Happy shall we be if we eye the hand which leads us, and the stretched out arm which supports us!—happy will it be for us, if instead of corrupting those whose places we occupy, we do them good, and teach them to be virtuous!

When we behold the United States every day extending their boundaries, and increasing their resources—when we see the moral and physical energies of a single constituent part of the Union, in possession of more real force than many of the states of Europe, we are astonished at our own power, and our own responsibility. Millions are yet to be influenced by our example. It is impossible that so much power, and so much enterprise should remain inactive. Our western boundary will, ultimately, be the Pacific Ocean; our northern, the North Pole; our southern, the Isthmus of Darien; and on the ocean we shall have no competitor. May our justice ever direct our power, and may we be the patron and protector of oppressed nations.

Before I proceed from the Ohio towards New-Orleans, it may be observed that what is generally understood by the Western States and Territories, is all that part of the territory of the United States, which lies west of the Alleghany mountains, and east of the Mississippi river.

I have expressed a few general ideas upon this vast and excellent tract of country. Much more might be offered; but it would be both useless, and improper to retail the records of geographers. {193} However few may be my statements upon this subject, they shall be dictated, exclusively, by my own observations.

I may add, that the timber of the west is much more various than that of the east, and equally useful. The sugar maple tree is here so numerous, that they would probably supply the whole United States with sugar. The Spanish oak is peculiar to the west. Here too, are the lynn tree, gum tree, sugar tree, iron-wood, aspen, crabapple, bark-spice, leather-wood, &c. &c. The sugar tree produces a sweet pod, like that of a pea, and furnishes very nutritious food for swine.

The weather in the west is milder than on the Atlantic coast; but it is also more changeable. Rheumatism, pleurisies, consumptions, bilious complaints, &c. cannot but prevail here. The exhalations from the earth, and rivers is great, and the general aspect of the people, situated near these rivers, is pale, emaciated, and feeble; but in these respects the country, in time, will be less disagreeable.

The earth here, in summer, is covered with a luxuriance of vegetation, which, together with the absence of varied scenery, sicken the eye, and heart of the traveller. In some places one can, after a shower, almost hear the earth teem. The very atmosphere seems fattening to the cattle; and garden weeds grow in great profusion upon the uncultivated grounds. The cane, which grows here, bears a wide leaf, like those of herds grass; and for cattle it is palatable, and nourishing. The stalk of the cane is used for angling poles, and for making chairs, looms, &c.

I now suppose myself on the banks of the Mississippi. The average width of this river is about a mile, and its length, from the mouth of the Ohio, is {194} about twelve hundred miles. It contains a great many islands, some of which are several miles in length, and its course is very serpentine. Owing to the soil in its vicinity being alluvian, it frequently changes its course. Sometimes its tributaries inundate the whole country on both sides of it. The banks of the river are generally a little higher than the adjacent country; the water, therefore, which rises over them never returns, but passes off into the swamps. These swamps are very extensive, and being incapable of cultivation, will ever render the climate of this part of the country insalubrious. During freshets the water of the Mississippi breaks through points of land of the width of many leagues. By these inundations vast trees are uprooted, carried into the main channel of the river, and there lodge. In consequence of these circumstances the navigation of the river is very dangerous. Hundreds of boats, laden with valuable cargoes, are annually wrecked, and destroyed here. Here too, sudden squalls, attended with severe thunder and lightning, are frequent. Even on the Ohio, there is, at times, such an undulation of the water, as to render being in a small boat very dangerous. Upon the appearance of squalls on the Mississippi, the boats put ashore as soon as possible; and it is interesting to see them moving in with so much labour, bustle, and difficulty. There is frequently much danger in landing, and the boats in doing so sometimes make a great crash.

The principal obstructions to the navigation of the Mississippi, are sawyers, planters, and snags. The first are trees, the tops of which are fixed in the bed of the river near a strong current; which causes them to rise and sink, so as to resemble the action of a saw in a mill. These make a formidable appearance, and are very dangerous. Sometimes {195} the sawyers continue under water for fifteen or twenty minutes, and then instantaneously rise above the surface, to the distance of eight or ten feet. They frequently make their appearance very near the bows of the boats, in which case much judgment, and activity are necessary to escape the impending destruction. Some of the sawyers do not appear above the surface at all; and by being concealed, are the more dangerous. Planters, are trees likewise lodged in the bed of the river, but they are immoveable. These trees, at first, lie horizontally; but by the force of the current, the end up the river is raised, and sometimes presents a sharp point considerably above the surface of the water. Snags, are trees which lie upon the shoals of the river; and the branches of them extend into the channel. There are several difficult passes on the Mississippi, in which these obstructions abound. The principal of these passes, are the Devil’s Race-ground, and Picket-Island passage.

During the last summer two steam boats, and many boats of other kinds were sunken by planters. Floating barrels of flour are often seen in the Mississippi; and hundreds of barrels of wheat, and hogsheads of tobacco, lie on its shores in a state of ruin.

The thunder and lightning which prevail on this river are truly grand; and the sunken islands here are interesting. This effect was produced by the earthquakes, which were experienced in the west in 1811. The traveller too, on the bank of Mississippi, frequently sees huge masses of earth fall from them into the bed of the river. These masses sometimes constitute an acre, and are covered with a heavy growth of trees. The noise, occasioned by the falling of the banks, is as loud as distant thunder, {196} but far more impressive. It speaks of nature’s final grave.

There are other dangers incident to the navigation of the Mississippi. The falling banks frequently crush the boats laying along side of them. Boats too, are sometimes dashed to pieces upon huge masses of wood, which, having lodged near the shore, continue to accumulate so as to produce near them a very rapid current. The fogs, which sometimes exist on this river, are so thick that one cannot see an object at the distance of fifty feet. The whirlpools in the Mississippi appear formidable; but they are not sufficiently large to endanger boats of a considerable size.

The general aspect of the country on both sides of the Mississippi, from its junction with the Ohio to the Gulf of Mexico, is perfectly level and exceedingly rich. A very few situations near the river are higher than the adjacent country, and the soil of these eminences is sandy and sterile. The timber in this part of the country, is in some places very large, but generally it is small, and apparently young. The soil here is subject to such frequent revolutions, that sufficient time is not allowed for trees to obtain their full growth. The banks of the river are not, generally, high enough to warrant settlements upon them; consequently almost the whole country, from the Ohio to Natches, is a pathless wilderness. This is particularly the case with respect to the western bank of the river. Much of the Louisiana purchase is not worth a cent.

Below Natches, there are a great many superb plantations, and the country is under a high state of cultivation. Here, however, the water of the river is confined to its bed by a levee, or embankment.

{197} The cane thickets near the banks of the Mississippi are very luxuriant; and the extensive groves of willows upon them form an impervious shade, and present a gloomy aspect.

About fifty miles below the mouth of the Ohio, on the west bank of the Mississippi, stands New Madrid.[184] Owing to destructive freshets and other causes, it is unflourishing.

After leaving this side of the river, I entered Tennessee on the east. This state is bounded on the Mississippi, from the Iron Banks to one of the Chickasaw Bluffs,[185] a distance of about one hundred miles. The length of the state is four hundred miles. That part of Tennessee, which lies on the Mississippi, is a perfect wilderness, and inhabited, principally, by Indians. In and near this part of the state reside the Cherokees and Chickasaws. The Chickasaws have always been well disposed towards the United States, and their physiognomy and general appearance are much in their favour. The language of this tribe, and of the Choctaws is very similar. The Cherokees were once very numerous; but being much disposed to war, and frequently contending unsuccessfully with the northern Indians, their numbers have become small, and their spirits broken. The Chickasaws are likewise the remnant of a great tribe. They originally resided further west; and were slaughtered by the Spaniards, towards whom they still entertain much hatred.[186]

The principal rivers which run directly from the state of Tennessee into the Mississippi, are the Obian, Forked, and Wolf rivers. Just below the latter is Fort Pike.[187] Some parts of Tennessee are so mountainous as to be even incapable of cultivation; but its soil generally is fertile, and on the banks of the rivers very rich. Some of its mountains are stupendous. The state is exceedingly well watered; {198} and its principal rivers are the Mississippi, Tennessee, Cumberland, Holston, and Clinch. The face of the country is uneven, and presents a pleasing variety of aspect. Although its eminences are fertile, and its levels rich, it contains some barrens, similar to those of the Carolinas and Georgia. The productions of this state are unlike to those of Ohio; and it also produces large quantities of cotton, tobacco, and some indigo. It is too, well calculated for rice. Its commerce is similar to that of Kentucky; but it derives many of its foreign goods from Virginia, by the way of Richmond, as well as from Philadelphia, and Baltimore, by that of Pittsburg.

Indigo is raised upon a rich, deep, and mellow soil well pulverized. The seed is sown in beds, during the month of April. The stalk is cut three times a year, and steeped for eight and forty hours. The impregnated liquor is then drawn off, and lime water added, to produce a separation of the particles of indigo from the aqueous fluid. This fluid is then again drawn off, and the indigo spread to dry. Afterwards it is pressed into boxes, and whilst soft, cut into square pieces. Finally, these pieces are placed in the sun, until they become hard, and then are packed for the market.

The state of Tennessee is, in many respects, peculiar. It will become a great, and a polished republic. Its mountains, rivers, minerals, fossils, botany, zoology, and natural curiosities, all promise developments of much interest to the philosopher, politician, and man of science.

In marching through the woods, near the banks of the Mississippi, nature presents, to the traveller from the east, a novel aspect. In moving hundreds of miles, he does not see a single rise of land. His eye is pained by the absence of variety; and he feels {199} that he would undergo much labour to obtain the prospect of a hill-country. Here too, in the spring and summer, he sees nothing around him but the most umbrageous growth of trees, bushes, and cane. The earth here teems with a sickening luxuriance; and the perpetual hum of myriads of musquetoes, and other insects, renders the rays of the sun doubly oppressive. The musquetoes near the Mississippi are very large, and not at all ceremonious. When in the woods, my nights were rendered completely sleepless by them.

In bathing in this river, I found the water remarkably soft. It is well known that the human body is much less buoyant in fresh than in salt water; but the water of the Mississippi is conspicuous in this respect: many persons, who were good swimmers, have fallen into this river, and in a moment were seen no more. After travelling in the heated wood, and being much bitten by musquetoes, I found bathing in the Mississippi very refreshing. The water of this river is always thick, so that a tumbler full of it will deposit a sediment of one sixteenth part of the whole. It is, however, not very unpalateable, and is, I think, not unwholesome.

The fish in this river are numerous, and large; but they are too fat to be delicate. Geese, ducks, and swan, are also numerous here. The latter are very beautiful. Wild ducks, with their broods, are frequently seen moving in the coves of the river, and numerous paroquets occupy the trees on its banks.

The swan is well known; but pleasure is derived from dwelling upon the beauties of this bird. There is nothing very interesting in its colour; but its milk-white feathers, connected with its large size, renders this species of bird an object of attention even in this respect. The grace of its motions, however, {200} is indescribably charming. The mild majesty of its appearance, when moving upon the calm and glassy bosom of the water, and the wonderful elegance of the positions and motions of its neck, excite admiration. Poets feign, that the swan, in the hour of death, beguiles the pains of dissolution with the most plaintive notes. It is no doubt true, that her voice, at such a season, charms the ear of those who love to feel innocent and resigned. The ways of nature are wonderful; and she enables man, by her operations, to catch some faint impression,—to receive some prophetic foretaste of the sublimity of her principles, and the eloquence of her sentiments.

The paroquet is smaller, and more beautiful than the common parrot. They go in flocks, and their notes are rapid, harsh, and incessant. It is remarkable, that this bird is subject to a disease resembling apoplexy.

There is much music near the Mississippi. Amidst the silence of the wood, rendered even more impressive by the umbrageous aspect of the trees, by the teeming earth, the darting serpent, the creeping turtle, and the hum of innumerable insects;—amidst this silence, the bag-pipe, or violin, or fife, strikes the ear with an almost celestial sound. Sometimes the busy silence of nature is interrupted by the fall of a bank of the river; and sometimes the whoop of the Indian, hunting in the wood, tells the traveller to tread lightly in his path.

On board of a boat, on the Mississippi, into which I stepped for a few hours, there was a lad from the Highlands of Scotland. He had with him his bag-pipe, trimmed with plaid, and he tuned his instrument to several interesting airs, connected with the history of his country. During his exhibitions, there was in his countenance something singularly wrapt, which, to those acquainted with the fortunes, manners, {201} and national characteristics of the Scotch, could not fail to produce much effect.

Whilst in Tennessee I met with a whole tribe of Indians, who were about going to war with some tribe situated north-west of them. As they were about to cross the Mississippi, some persons on board of a descending boat whooped at and insulted them. The Indians fired upon the boat, but no injury was done. How natural is it to man to persecute the unfortunate and weak! How natural is the abuse of power! The Indians are a wronged, and an insulted people. Their cruelties, no doubt, surpass description.—Their conduct is by no means justifiable; but how can we rationally expect from them that human mode of warfare, which is the consequence of civilization? Their revenge, is the natural effect of their weakness. They improve every opportunity to lessen that power, which, they fear, is destined to destroy them. And what should they do with prisoners? They have no extraordinary means of feeding them, and no castles for their confinement. Besides, think of the examples which have been set them by England, by France, by Spain, and by America. Many a harmless, humane, and magnanimous Indian, has been murdered, in cold blood, by the sons of civilization; and many a charge of robbery and murder, committed by white men, has been made against the peaceable, and inoffensive children of the forest. But I wish to be understood, that I believe the disposition of the General Government of the United States towards the Indians, to have ever been fair and friendly.

The boatmen on the western waters are great marksmen, and pride themselves in sharp shooting. One morning, whilst on the Mississippi, a solitary little duck, probably not a fortnight from the shell, passed the bows of the boat, on board of which I {202} then was, and the captain immediately raised his rifle to blow this little being to pieces. How wanton in cruelty is man! The young duck, conscious of its danger, plied, with all its might, its little feet and wings. I pitied its pert and apprehensive spirit, and seizing the captain’s gun said, he is yours,—I will give you a dollar for him as he is. The captain accepted my offer, and the little duck hiding himself under the reeds of the shore, we passed on.

After being sometime in Tennessee, I crossed the river, and entered the Missouri Territory. There is no great difference between the soil and aspect of the country here, and those of the Tennessee side of the Mississippi. In the latter, however, there are some rises of land, called banks and bluffs, which present a sandy and an unproductive appearance. The bluffs are known by the words first, second, third, and fourth bluff. The aspect of the second one is interesting, and is evidently one of the ends of those mountainous ridges in Tennessee, which, passing into South-Carolina and Georgia, terminate in the vast savannas of the Alabama and Appalachicola.

The musquetoes are more troublesome on the Missouri than on the Tennessee side of the river. The smoke of my fire would hardly keep them at a respectful distance; and the only way to avoid, by night, being completely blinded by them, was, to cover my face with small bushes. No covering of cloth could resist their stings.

The river near the lower part of the Missouri Territory is very crooked, and the islands numerous. These islands are formed by the current, during freshets, cutting through the soil and making new channels for itself. The islands are covered with trees and bushes, but are low, and frequently overflown. Near some of these islands I saw many pelicans. {203} This bird interested me because it is both a scriptural and poetical bird. David said, “I am like a pelican of the wilderness,” and the poets of fabulous times supposed that she nourished her young with her own blood.

The seasons of the greatest rise of the Mississippi are early in the spring, and in July. During the latter period the crops are on the ground, and of course much damage is sustained. But here I may again observe, that the country on the Mississippi, for a thousand miles below the Ohio, is, with a very few exceptions, a perfect wilderness; and that much of it will never admit of cultivation. The rise of the river, frequently appears to be occasioned by some secret causes, operating beneath the surface. Indeed it is to be presumed, that many of the sources of the river proceed from under the surface of the adjacent land.

On the banks of the Mississippi, I frequently passed the graves of the boatmen. The rudely sculptured monuments of their lowly dwelling, prove that there is still charity for the dead; and that a fellow-feeling seldom leaves, under any circumstance, the human breast.[188]

Having progressed some way in the Missouri Territory, I again crossed the river, and entered the Indian Village at one of the Chickasaw Bluffs. The settlement here is considerable; and the Chickasaws, being friendly to the United States, evince in their appearance, the beneficial consequences of a peaceful policy. White men of little or no reputation frequently intermarry with this tribe; and the Indians are much pleased with the connexion. On this Bluff is situated Fort Pickering.[189]

The evenings in this part of the country are delightful; especially in the woods, far from the haunts of men. The aspect of the heavens is here {204} peculiarly serene; and the human mind is disposed to dwell upon the power, wisdom, and goodness of God; the station of man in the scale of being; his probationary state, with all its relations and events; and his hopes of happiness beyond the grave.

The traveller, in proceeding from a cold to a warm climate, is forcibly impressed by a sense of the revolutions of the seasons; especially if he commences his tour in the midst of winter. Those who are acquainted with astronomy, who know what are the effects of the annual motion of the earth; and particularly the beneficial consequences of its declination, will, if they have any sense of moral power and goodness, unite with Milton in his sublime fiction:—

“Some say He bid his angels turn askance
The poles of earth, twice ten degrees and more,
From the sun’s axle; they, with labour,
Push’d oblique the central globe.”

The remembrance of those aspects in nature, which are peculiar to the various seasons of the year, are delightfully painful. There is a religious influence in them;—they are connected with the recollection of a thousand events which mark the stages of man’s pilgrimage through life.—The winds of spring; the autumnal evening; the equinoctial gale; the frozen ground; the January thaw; all eloquently speak of childhood, the vicissitudes of time, and of a better world.

In addition to the difficulties, attending the navigation of the Mississippi, already mentioned, there are here many bends, points, and sand bars, which cause the current to set in a great variety of directions, and render necessary, not only constant watchfulness, but much practical knowledge.

{205} Whilst in the Missouri Territory, and not far from the bank of the river, a bald eagle, perched upon a tall and blasted oak, attracted my attention. It was in the forenoon, and he viewed the sun with an unblinking eye. Whilst I was admiring the strength of his form, and the majesty of his aspect, a wild turkey flew from a neighbouring tree, and alighted on the ground. The eagle immediately pounced upon his prey; but ere he could effect his object the turkey was shot. I might too, have killed the eagle, but admiration and awe prevented me. I felt that he was the emblem, and the inspiration of my country; and, at that moment, I would not, for ten thousand worlds like ours, have cut a feather of his wing.

There is something wonderfully impressive in the nature of this bird; and it is not surprising that the Romans were devoted to it. When quite a lad, I mortally wounded an eagle, supposing it to be a hawk. It was a half hour before it died, and during this time my heart was filled with mingled emotions of regret and awe. I felt as though I were witnessing the last moments of some mountain hero, who had fallen upon the hills of his fame. This noble bird fixed his eyes upon me, and without a single blink supported the pangs of death with all the grandeur of fortitude. I could not endure his aspect,—I shrunk into my own insignificance, and have ever since been sensible of my inferiority.

After remaining a day or two on this side of the river, I crossed it and entered the State of Mississippi. This state is bounded by this river west; north by Tennessee; east by Georgia; and south by West-Florida. The principal rivers in this state are the Yazoo, Pearl, Big Black, Tombecbee, and Alabama. The grand chain of mountains, called the Alleghany, terminates in this state. On the {206} Tombecbee is situated Fort Stoddard.[190] The city of Natches is the only considerable settlement in this state. The aspect of the country is level, and generally very fertile; but some parts of it are sandy and unproductive. Its principal products are tobacco, cotton, indigo, and rice. Live oak of the best quality abounds here. In this state are tribes of the Creeks, Cherokees, Choctaws, and Chickasaws. These tribes are acquainted with agriculture, and with some manufactures. The Natches Indians, formerly a powerful, and, in many respects, a civilized people, were exterminated by the French in 1730.[191] The Creek Indians consist of about twenty tribes, who united for the purpose of exterminating the Choctaws. The names of these tribes are derived from those of several rivers in the states of Georgia and Mississippi, and the whole are called Creeks, from the great number of streams which pass through these parts of the country. They are sagacious, bold, and jealous of their rights. General Jackson has made great havoc among them.

On the twenty-sixth of May I passed through a little settlement called Point Sheco. Vegetation here was, at this time, very backward. The inhabitants are principally French. The small-pox prevailed among them, and they appeared sallow and emaciated. The land here is very rich; but indolence characterizes the place. The people, however, possess many herds of fine cattle, and much poultry. The musquetoes here are literally intolerable. My journal says, “they are three times as large as Yankee musquetoes; my face, neck, hands, and feet are covered with their inflictions, and for several nights I have not slept a moment.” The people in this part of the country always sleep under close curtains, called musqueto bars.

The Mississippi, a little below this place, is very {207} wide and expansive. I have spoken of its islands. There are about one hundred and thirty between the mouth of the Ohio and New-Orleans. These islands are sometimes formed by the lodgment of floating trees upon a bank in the bed of the river, and by after accumulations of the various substances which freshets bring from the country above. The river here deposits a sufficient quantity of floating soil to produce vegetation, and the island is soon covered with a thick growth of bushes and trees. The current of the Mississippi moves from three to five miles an hour, according to the rise and fall of its water. I have also spoken of the boats on this river. They are as various, and their number as great, as on the Ohio. The usual passage of barks, and barges, from New-Orleans to the mouth of the Cumberland, on the Ohio, is ninety days; sometimes, however, they are six months in getting up thus far, and sometimes lose all their hands on the way, by sickness. These boats generally carry from sixty to seventy men each, whose compensation is from fifty to eighty dollars a trip. Many old sailors prefer this inland navigation to that of the ocean. Here they spend their second childhood; and venture only on those little seas which met the earliest efforts of their boisterous career. The vessels of which I have been speaking, are from eighty to one hundred tons burthen. The freight from New-Orleans to the Cumberland is about five dollars a hundred weight. Down the river the price is fifty per cent less.

The cotton-wood tree abounds near the Mississippi, and is said to be the New-England poplar; I think, however, that this is not the case.[192] Here too are bulrushes;, such, probably, as concealed the child Moses on the Nile. There is a very interesting connexion between the scenes and productions of {208} nature, and the simple stories of inspiration. In view of it the enlightened agriculturalist is charmed. The situation of our first parents, the patriarchal days, and the history of the Judean Shepherds, furnish him, whilst he is tilling his ground and tending his flocks, with sources of reflection, which at once delight his mind, improve his heart, and prepare him for that state of innocence and love, which awaits the good beyond the scenes of time.

The animal and vegetable worlds furnish an inexhaustible source of illustration and imagery; and in the scriptures, they are employed with all the simplicity of truth, and the sublimity of inspiration.

The sight of the bulrushes, connected with several other circumstances, forcibly reminded me of the River Nile, and the story of that forsaken babe, who, by the might of Heaven, conducted Israel from Egypt to the Promised Land, in type of that Great Leader, who is now calling man from the thraldom of iniquity to the liberty of the heavenly Canaan. On the Mississippi there are arks, and alligators, which resemble the crocodile; and the general appearance of this river is similar to that of the Nile.

Not far from the Iron Banks, before mentioned, are the Chalk Banks; and a little below the latter is the Bayau de She.