Chapter XII: Siberia and Kamchatka 275 (10)

Knowing how well the natives of that country understand the weather,
although I could see nothing that indicated a storm, I gave orders as
he directed, and he led the way with his own dogs. These, he said,
were his hunting dogs, and could be relied on. We went on quite well,
and briskly, until a little before twelve o’clock, when, all of a
sudden, the wind began to blow with great violence, and, drifting the
snow in quantities, thickened the atmosphere so that we could not see
a yard before us. For the first part of our progress the sky above
our heads was clear; but this, after a while, became covered with
black clouds, and a kind of sharp sleet descended, which was borne
on the wind so violently that we could no longer keep our faces to
windward, and were obliged to stop. As we had lost our way from the
commencement, the Toyune came to me to hold a consultation as to what
was to be done. I told him he was an inhabitant of the country, and
must be the better judge, and I should leave it to him to decide. He
said, “As it is impossible to make a fire, if we remain here and the
poorga continues all night, we shall all be frozen to death. We had,
therefore, better keep moving; but don’t you give a dram to any one
till I tell you; for watky is not good at such a time. I have great
confidence in my dogs, and if there is a reindeer on the plain they
will find him.”

After this speech he pushed on his dogs to take what road they liked,
first giving orders to the party to watch each other strictly and
not to separate on any account. To our surprise the dogs, instead
of taking what we imagined to be the road, turned off from the sea
and brought the wind nearly on our backs. Although this alarmed
many, who thought they were going wrong, they found it much more
comfortable than to go against the sharp sleet which tore the skin
from their faces. We continued travelling in this manner for upwards
of two hours. The poorga raged with redoubled fury; the clouds of
sleet rolled like a dark smoke over the moor, and we were all so
benumbed with cold that our teeth chattered in our heads. The sleet,
driven with such violence, had got into our clothes, and penetrated
even under our parkas, and into our baggage, wherever there was the
smallest crevice.

At length the Toyune’s dogs began to snuff the air, bark loudly,
and set out at full speed. It was like a shock of electricity. The
rest of the dogs followed this example, and strained every nerve
to keep pace with them. Our hearts now beat high, for we were sure
the dogs smelt the reindeer, and this emotion had already infused a
warmth through our veins, as we anticipated the happiness of finding
shelter from a dreadful storm that threatened us with death. In about
ten minutes more we had the ineffable pleasure of finding ourselves
near a large Karaikee jourta, where we saw a fine fire blazing. The
Karaikees had all run out with their clubs and spears to defend
their reindeer from the dogs, which our drivers, benumbed as they
were, could hardly keep from running on the herd that surrounded the
jourta. The Karaikees, who were to leeward of us, had heard the dogs
for some time, and, anticipating our arrival, had already killed a
fine fat buck, and the women were skinning him when we arrived.

Our host was a fine hospitable old man, who possessed a herd of
nearly three hundred sleek reindeer, and he seemed overjoyed to have
us for guests. He made me sit down on some nice warm bear-skins
spread near the fire, which was in the centre of the jourta. Behind
me was a place apart, well hung and lined with deer-skins, for me to
sleep on.

My interpreter, who was of Karaikee origin, found out at last that
the host was a relation of his. This circumstance occasioned much
joy, and was the cause of the death of another fine buck to regale
his relation. The Toyune of Evashka being in possession of an order
from government to collect the tax and tribute from the Reindeer
Karaikees in that quarter, he made the interpreter explain his powers
to the other Toyune, and ask him if he was prepared to pay them. He
replied that he would pay the tribute with great cheerfulness, but
he could not pay the tax in money, because he had none, nor did he
know how to get it. “I wish,” said he to me, “as you are going to St.
Petersburg you would tell the Emperor that the Reindeer Karaikees,
though a wild people, are good loyal subjects, and are always ready
to pay the tribute in furs, although they cannot pay him money. Our
habits of life,” continued he, “are such that we never buy or sell
anything for money; how then can he expect us to find it? When I want
tobacco, knives, kettles, needles, or watky, I buy them with fox,
sable, and deer skins, and I know nothing farther of trade; besides,
I have heard that amongst you who trade for money the effect often
spoils the heart and creates bad blood between man and man. I am
glad, therefore, there is so little money amongst our Karaikees,
who are warm-tempered.” After having made this speech, which was
delivered in a serious tone, he ordered a bundle of fox and sable
skins to be brought, and, throwing them at the feet of the Toyune,
“There,” said he, “is our tribute. Let the interpreter write me a
paper and do you sign it to say you have received it.”

This request being complied with, and the afternoon being very fine
and serene, we deemed it best to resist the kind invitation of the
chief to pass the night with him, and proceeded on our journey.
After leaving Tolbachik, the roads were good, and we soon arrived at
Oushkee. Here the inhabitants were few, and those few miserable. I
therefore distributed some presents amongst them which I had brought
for that purpose. My distribution was nearly finished when I observed
a lad whose features I recognized, and I immediately asked him where
he belonged. He said, “I am from the Tigil coast, and have been sent
here to assist travellers, and I helped to row you down the river
last summer. As I have been always very busy I have been but once at
the chase; but I killed a sable, and I kept it on purpose to repay
your kindness for the knife and flints you gave me.” Seeing that this
poor fellow was misery personified, not a shirt on his back, and the
skin dress he had on all in tatters, I refused to accept his offer.
He burst into tears and was about to leave the room when I made him
return, and took his sable from him in return for what I had ordered
to be given him, at which he seemed quite happy.

“Look further on,” said Uncle Fritz. “Find that which I have marked ‘A Gentle Hint.’ It tells how they cut short visits when the stores run low.”

And Hugh read first:--

A GENTLE HINT.

The Kamtchadales are not only grateful for favors, but they think
it absolutely necessary to make some return for a present, and are
highly offended if it is refused. One of my Chinese servants, who was
a very good-hearted fellow, was so affected at the circumstance I
have told and the miserable appearance of the boy, that he went and
brought one of his blue Nankin shirts and made him a present of it.

All the Kamtchadales I met with were Christians of the Greek
persuasion, and appeared attentive to their devotions. Their
hospitality is excessive, and it is carried to an extreme amongst
themselves that becomes ridiculous. They pay one another visits which
last for a month or six weeks, until the generous host, finding his
stock of provisions exhausted, is forced to give a hint to his guest
to take his departure. This is managed by presenting to him at dinner
a dish called _tolkootha_, a kind of olio, or hodge-podge, composed
of a number of meats, fish, and vegetables, all mixed together, and
very difficult to prepare. It is the _dernier ressort_ of the master
of the house, and the moment this dish is served up the guests take
the hint and leave him the following day without feeling in the least
dissatisfied.

The first thing a traveller must do, on arriving at a Kamtchadale
house, is to treat the family with tea, of which they are excessively
fond. I once saw a Kamtchadale drink eleven half-pint bowls of tea
at a sitting, and he declared he could have completed the dozen had
there been water enough in the kettle. They speak very slowly, with
rather an effeminate voice, making use of the simplest language, but
almost always with good sense. When they do not wish to come to the
point directly they convey their meaning by some curious allegory,
having relation to bears, dogs, fishing, and hunting.

PRINCE ZACHAR.

A circumstance occurred whilst we were at Govenskoy that inspired
me with respect for the greatness of soul, the courage, and the
_sang-froid_ exhibited by my friend, the Prince Zachar, and revealed
to me at once the cause of the great influence he possessed over the
Karaikees of the coast. My Klutchee Kyoorchiks begged of me to give
them some watky to buy reindeer, silk, parkas, and boots, and one of
the prince’s men, who had drunk too much of it, became quite furious.
With a large knife in his hand he sought the prince, crying out that
he was an unjust man, and he would stab him. The other Karaikees
tried in vain to stop him until he had got quite near to the prince’s
dwelling, when he called with all his force, “Come out, Zachar,
if you dare! I am prepared to kill you!” Zachar, who was quietly
drinking tea with me, heard all of a sudden this extraordinary
summons, which the interpreter immediately explained to me. The
prince put down his cup of tea and, rising slowly from his seat, went
out of the jourta. I followed him closely, with a pair of loaded
pistols, which I always kept ready in case of necessity. When he
perceived that I followed him he desired the interpreter would tell
me not to interfere, as he would very soon settle the affair himself.
During this time the drunken Karaikee foamed with rage and was trying
to extricate himself from the crowd that surrounded him. Zachar,
who had already thrown off his parka, now unbuttoned his shirt,
exposed his breast, and ordering the crowd to stand aside, advanced
boldly up to the Karaikee, and then, with a terrible voice and an
undaunted countenance, he said to him, “Here is the breast of your
prince; strike at it if you dare!” The Karaikee seemed thunderstruck;
he raised his hand, but was afraid to strike, and the knife fell to
the ground. “Coward,” said Zachar, “you have saved your life, for if
you had aimed a blow at me I would have thrown you down at the same
instant, and your own knife should have drawn your heart’s blood.”
He then ordered his men to confine him till he should be sober, and
returned with me to finish his tea.

THE REINDEER.

The reindeer may fairly be called the ox of these countries, and not
the horse, as some people have called him. He does not possess either
the noble temper or the docility of the latter animal. When the snow
is deep and the roads are difficult, if the reindeer be pressed to
exert himself, he becomes restive and stubborn, and neither beating
nor coaxing will move him. He will lie down and remain in one spot
for several hours, until hunger presses him forward; and if, at the
second attempt, he is again embarrassed, he will lie down and perish
in the snow for want of food.

A Karaikee related to me the story of a keeper whose herd was
dispersed in that way, but who, by very great exertions, after four
or five days, collected them together again. However, he found he had
wandered far beyond his usual haunts, and lost his way, so that he
remained and roamed about with his herd nearly two years before he
had the good fortune to meet with any of the Reindeer Karaikees.

We had now arrived at the last Karaikee ostrog on that coast, and it
became necessary to direct our course to Kammina, across the moors,
for two hundred and fifty versts, where there was scarcely a forest,
much less a hut, to afford us shelter from the weather, should it
prove bad again.

Here I separated from my friends, the Toyune of Evashka and the
Prince Zachar, with real regret, for they had behaved to me with the
kindness of brothers. On parting Zachar observed to me, “You are too
late in the season; but you must do the best you can. I therefore
advise you, even though the distance will be greater, to follow, as
much as possible, the course of the creeks and rivers. There you will
find shelter should a poorga commence; but on the moors, at this late
period, it is very dangerous.”

SLEEPING IN SNOW.

Early on the morning of the 19th we started again. It began to
snow not long after our departure, and before mid-day the wind had
increased to a storm, and my guide said we should have a regular
poorga. We therefore directed our course for a small creek or branch
that unites Veyvinskoia to Kammina River. We were not long before we
got there, and followed its winding course, whilst its high banks
defended us from the rigors of the snowstorm. After travelling in
this way about an hour, we stopped to prepare our dinner, but found
the wind and snow beat over the banks with such violence that we
could not keep our fire burning five minutes at a time. After many
attempts we persisted no longer, and contented ourselves with eating
some cold boiled venison that had fortunately been prepared the day
before; and very happy were we that my Chinese cook had been so
provident. By the time we had finished our cold repast, we found it
impossible to proceed any farther, and, drawing our sledges close
under the windward bank of the creek, with the dogs in front, we
passed the night on this dreary spot. A dismal night it was, for
the snow and sleet beat in whirlwinds over the bank with unceasing
violence; and it was impossible to hold one’s face towards the wind
for an instant. Although I slept in a kibitka that I tried to close
up as tightly as possible, the snow beat into the crevices; and when
I first awoke I found myself completely covered, and with difficulty
extricated myself. The dogs, sledges, and men were so entirely
concealed that I could only discern the marks where they lay; and I
beat about and trampled amongst them some time before I could rouse
them.

As the latter part of the night was warmer, and the snow fell in
immense quantities, or rather drifted over us, we slept very warmly
and comfortably. On the 20th, the wind having abated, and the weather
proving mild, we determined to set off again, first spending an hour
or two in shaking the snow off our clothes, baggage, and sledges,
where it was found in abundance. It was absolutely necessary to
depart, for not a stick of wood, nor even a twig, could we find
to make a fire; and we travelled on until near eleven o’clock in
the day before we arrived where there was wood enough to boil the
tea-kettle. With what pleasure and satisfaction did we swallow a warm
and cheering cup of tea, that delicious beverage, far exceeding every
other when one is cold and weary! Ardent spirits will warm you more
quickly, but their effects are not so lasting, and occasion a stupor
that makes you feel afterwards quite drowsy.

SLEIGHING IN MAY.

We got off early on the 8th, and, although the surface of the snow
was still soft, I found we got forward much better than on the day
before. Travellers in this country during the spring should always
take advantage of the night; indeed, the sun in the day being
excessively hot, shining upon you for fourteen hours, and thawing
a deep snow, is sufficient to prove the advantage of travelling by
night. A tedious spring day, in a high northern latitude, with a hot
sun reflected from the glassy surface of an immense snow-covered
plain, entirely destitute of trees, not only inflames the eyes, but
creates a lassitude of the body and mind. We had now a plain to
cross of about a hundred versts in length, and about twenty versts
in breadth, bounded on either side by steep mountains. Here the
snow, which we frequently fathomed, was often four, and never less
than three orshins deep, a measurement equal to from seven to nine
English feet. We got away early on the 12th of May, and took care to
move briskly, the surface being frozen, and still strong enough to
bear the deer. The guide directed his course towards the centre of
the plain, from an idea that when the snow became soft, we should
find it not so deep there as close under the mountains. However, it
proved the contrary; and we were not a little alarmed at the fearful
distance that lay between us and the only places where we could
procure food for our deer, now scarcely able to crawl, either by
driving or coaxing.

Although I beat the road myself for them, on snow-shoes, they
plunged in so deeply as to be obliged to stop and lie down every
ten or twelve yards, panting for breath. My Karaikee interpreter,
with one of the Tongusees, drew the sledge after them; and about one
o’clock in the day we were all so worn down we were obliged to rest
ourselves. To add to our disappointment the nearest mountain appeared
yet a considerable distance off. After a while the driver said we
must continue our journey, and force the deer on in the best way
we could, for if they remained twenty or thirty hours more without
food, they would be too weak to proceed at all, and must perish in
the snow. Indeed, I was well aware of the danger, and was prepared to
walk as long as I had a sinew to support my tired limbs.

Having been every day since I left Towisk on snow-shoes, I became
a practised pedestrian in this way; nor found myself inferior to
the natives of the country. In fact, without snow-shoes, I should
have been like a man in the middle of the ocean, who knew not how
to swim, and was without even a chip to save him from drowning. It
was impossible to drive through such snows, when a deer with the
greatest difficulty carried a small portion of baggage, and when that
oftentimes was obliged to be taken from his back to enable him to
extricate himself. I had taken care also to teach my servants to walk
in snow-shoes whilst in Kamtchatka.

Between six and seven in the evening I thought I perceived the last
row of trees which intercepted our view of the mountains; and we
pushed eagerly on to pass it. Our disappointment was excessive when
we could plainly distinguish two more intersections; but again,
not seeing anything beyond them, we consoled ourselves with the
idea that those were certainly the last. Arriving at them, we were
chagrined to find the largest stream we had yet encountered. This,
however, after being completely soaked through, and our strength
almost exhausted, we contrived to pass. When on the other side, there
were yet some versts between us and the foot of the mountain, which
the Karaikee declared he was too weak to accomplish. The Tongusee
likewise complained, but said we were now so near that, if I could
give him a little food of any sort to recruit his strength, we might
remain on the spot where we were until the baggage-deer came up with
us, while he would take his own to the mountains to pasture. I now
recollected that my cook formerly kept in my sledge one of the small
vessels with the deer’s feet he had boiled down. On examination I
found it, together with a little salt, and we were all not a little
rejoiced thereat, being at a great distance from my baggage, and
having taken nothing but water all the day. As we had no bread, and
but a small portion of jelly for each person, we were obliged to make
up the deficiency by drinking two or three large draughts of water.

Scanty as was our repast, we were all much refreshed. I had often
supped more plentifully, but certainly never with a better appetite.
Immediately after, the Tongusee, whom I armed with a Spanish knife
and a spear to protect him against the bears, left us, whilst the
Karaikee and myself collected wood, made a large fire, and placing a
quantity of bushes before it on the snow, wrapped ourselves up in our
parkas and went to sleep.

Between three and four in the morning of the 13th, I was awaked by
the arrival of my servants and the baggage-deer. They had followed
the track we had made, without which, they said, the deer would
never have been able to accomplish the distance. We now got a good
breakfast, and then started again under the hottest sun I had yet
experienced. Both deer and men suffered so much from the heat they
could scarcely crawl, and it was eleven o’clock before we arrived at
the mountain. Our deer were obliged to go to the summit before moss
could be procured.

After getting over the first mountain, on looking round to examine
our party, we found these two fellows had absconded with two of
the reindeer that were not laden. This was a most unpleasant
circumstance, as I was told that they knew the road better than any
of the rest. The road proved like that before described, except that
the snow was not quite so deep. Descending the mountain, we came to
an open stream, narrow, deep, and rapid, and were obliged to make a
bridge to take over the sledges, the deer going about a verst higher
up, where there was a spot fordable. One of them had the slender
remains of my stock of biscuit and my skin coverings on his back,
which he contrived to shake from him into the stream; and, before
we could recover them, the biscuits were all completely soaked and
spoiled. Pitching our tent on a rising ground on the opposite side,
I dried a dozen of them that were not broken in the sun; the rest we
consumed at once, as we perceived they would not keep in that state.

A MOUNTAIN HOME.

It was my intention, on going to rest, to have awakened about ten
o’clock at night in order to set out early; but the severe fatigue
we had undergone the day before made me sleep soundly until after
midnight. On awaking I called aloud for some time before any one
came. At length one of my Chinese servants entered my tent, and told
me the Tongusees were nowhere to be found! I now roused my guide
and the Karaikee, when, to our grief and astonishment, we perceived
these unfeeling rascals had gone off in the night, not leaving us
even a single deer for food, and returning by the road they came.
We were now five in number, namely, the Cossack, a Karaikee, two
Chinese servants, and myself, left, with all our baggage, on one of
the highest mountains in Siberia, in a wild, uninhabited country! We
had already been twelve days from Towisk, and had therefore every
reason to believe we were not more than three or four days’ march
from some Tongusee tabboon; but, as we were all totally ignorant of
the road, it was difficult to decide which way to direct our course.
The Cossack, who did not deserve the name, was a perfect woman in
character, more alarmed than anybody else, frightening the young
Karaikee and my servants, and proposing a hundred different schemes.
I would not listen to any of them, until I had weighed the matter
maturely, and examined well the country about us. The first thing,
however, was to see what stock of provisions we had. I found it to
consist of a few pounds of reindeer meat almost spoiled, two or
three pounds of rice, a small quantity of Manilla sweet chocolate,
our biscuits reduced in number to twelve, about the size of a dollar
each, two or three small lumps of sugar remaining, and a very small
quantity indeed of salt and pepper, but fortunately a little box full
of good tea. After this review of our provisions, I felt assured
that, with rigid economy, we could keep our bodies and souls together
for at least twelve or fifteen days. In the mean time it was highly
probable I should be able to shoot something to assist in preventing
us from starving. I had a map of Kamtchatka that included the shores
of the Ochotsk Sea, on the Siberian side, as far as Zamsk, and,
assisted by a pocket-compass, showed me on which side the sea lay.
But the Cossack declared he had seen it the day before from the
mountain on the opposite side of the rivulet. I therefore determined
we should go together to a high peak only a few versts distant, to
assure ourselves whether it was or was not the sea that he had seen.

When about to depart we looked in vain for our snow-shoes, of which
it appeared those fellows had robbed us to prevent our overtaking
them suddenly. About six o’clock on the morning of the 17th we left
the encampment, and, although we kept in the tracks of the reindeer,
we sunk above our knees at every step and suffered the severest
fatigue before attaining the height from whence we expected to behold
the sea. At the first view the expanse appeared to me no more than an
immense extent of low ground covered with fog. The Cossack persisted
to the contrary and showed me a valley on the opposite side where
we could distinguish the trees and which appeared so very different
from that before us that I was induced to give in to his opinion of
its being the ocean. Not feeling perfectly satisfied, however, on the
subject I told him we must visit, on the following morning, the ridge
of mountains that surrounded us in the form of a crescent, about
thirty versts in extent. This, I added, might be easily accomplished
by making ourselves snow-shoes with the boards of our sledges. He
seemed lost, and wavering every minute, sometimes proposing one
thing and sometimes another, and at length asked that he and the
Karaikee might go in search of reindeer men, while we remained on the
mountain to await their return. I was obliged to put a stop to any
further proposals of that kind by telling him that I was perfectly
aware of his cowardice and deceit, and that, as I was ignorant of
the character of the Karaikee, I should watch them both narrowly.
“You see,” said I, “how I am armed, and I shall put the first man to
death who attempts anything improper or disobeys my orders.” This
threat had the desired effect; he became instantly more obedient.
On my return to the tent I armed my Chinese servants, privately
desiring them to keep a strict watch on the other two, as I had
reason to believe they wished to rob us of our provisions and make
their escape. At night, before I went to sleep, I collected all the
provisions together, also my little axe, knife, guns, and pistols,
and slept near them. The Karaikee and Cossack I placed in the middle
of the tent, and my Chinese servants at each side of them.

I should have premised that previously to going to rest I visited
another height, about two versts off, on the same side as that where
our tent stood. Though I could not discover the sea I had the good
fortune to find my snow-shoes amongst the bushes, the Tongusees
having hidden them purposely.

On the 18th of May, at three o’clock in the morning, we set out on
our excursion after I had armed myself with two guns, in full hopes
that, as we had seen some tracks in coming up the mountain, we
should have the good fortune to meet with a bear. With much labor
and fatigue we contrived to climb the summit of the highest mountain
of the opposite ridge. We had now an extensive view of the country
around us and were most wofully disappointed in beholding the sea
that we thought we had seen the day before transmuted into trees,
hills, and plains! We now found ourselves immediately opposite our
tent, having a steep descent to make, a rivulet of considerable size
to cross in the valley, and the high mountain to ascend on which it
stood. As the snow was soft and my snow-shoes large I drew them both
together, and, sitting down on them, held my two guns with my left
arm, the butts resting on the snow-shoes, and with a short stick
in my right hand to guide myself I went down with the rapidity of
lightning. The Cossack followed safely in my path.

LOST IN A WILDERNESS.

Our companions were greatly dejected on hearing that all appearance
had vanished of the sea, which the Cossack was so confident of having
seen. The Karaikee said he had been considering the distance we had
made, and thought it was too great to attempt to return, and he was
willing now to obey my orders and accompany me through whatever road
I chose to take. I explained to them the necessity of firmness and
an unaltered resolution, telling them that they must put their trust
in God, while exerting every nerve and all their fortitude of mind
to keep themselves from sinking under the incessant fatigue we must
inevitably experience, for that we had but a scanty allowance of
food, and must push on in full hopes of being able to procure more by
the road, though we could form no judgment as to when the period of
our troubles and labors would arrive.

I made the Cossack and the Chinese join their hands to ours, and,
turning to the East, cross themselves as I did to confirm their
promise, assuring them that I would eat, drink, sleep, and work the
same as the rest, nor require of them one single act that I was not
ready and willing to assist in performing myself. We left on this
spot everything superfluous in the way of clothes, etc., making the
sledges as light as possible. The Cossack and myself led the way. I
soon perceived that we should have some difficulty in accomplishing
the business, but the danger was not so great as we imagined. Having
only a scanty portion of food we drank tea twice every twenty-four
hours, and in the morning we took thin rice-water, with a small lump
of chocolate each, to make it palatable. We perceived that, laborious
as was our march, this nourishment was enough to keep us alive
until it should please Heaven to direct us where we might procure,
with our guns, the means of living well. I was pleased at finding
my companions more cheerful and seemingly determined to exert all
their fortitude, courage, and perseverance so necessary to conquer
difficulties and insure our safety. We were an unfortunate little
band, thrown upon a wide wilderness, but relying on heaven and our
good stars, entirely ignorant of the country, and having nothing but
a pocket-compass to direct us towards the ocean, as to which, whether
it was one hundred or twenty versts distant, we could not possibly
tell....

On the 31st we threw everything away except what was absolutely
necessary. Just as we were about to depart, on the evening of this
day, two wild geese flew over us. I fired at them and thought I
had missed, but my Chinese boy declared he heard the shot strike
and had seen them alight, about two hundred yards off, on a spot
which he pointed out. The Cossack and myself repaired thither with
all possible speed. One of the geese fled at our approach, and the
other that was wounded remained in the middle of a large bog, where,
if shot, I was fearful we should find great trouble in getting it.
After shooting it I entered the bog, but found the surface of a tough
sod that sank down, bringing the mud and water to my middle without
breaking. I had used the precaution to take a large stick in my
hand, or I should not have been able to extricate myself. The sod
at length broke and let me down to my arm-pits, and I was obliged to
tell the Cossack, who was a much lighter man, to try what he could
do. He succeeded remarkably well until he got nearly back with the
goose, when he sunk suddenly up to his neck, and began to roar and
bawl in a most hideous manner, being so alarmed at the same time that
he could hardly make use of the stick. I had the utmost difficulty
to get near him with the other stick, which he laid hold of, and I
pulled him out, almost suffocated with mud. Dangerous as was the
situation of my companion, his ridiculous figure made me burst into
a fit of laughter, and the Chinese joined me heartily; this caused
him to scream the more loudly, in order to impress me with the fuller
idea of his perilous situation. When extricated from the bog he
crossed himself a dozen times and then laughed as heartily as myself.
Indeed, the goose was such a prize as gave us spirits to laugh....

In the evening I went to the summit of the mountain again, imagining
that as the sun descended I might discover better what was on the
opposite side of some extensive low grounds that lay before us.
Whilst there, and holding my compass to take the direction for our
route of the following day, I thought I plainly saw, at a great
distance to the northward and eastward, three or four men, and as
many reindeer or horses. I immediately called out to the two Chinese
to light a large fire, and making the Cossack and Karaikee come up to
me endeavored to point out to them the objects that had just met my
eyes. Although I felt confident I saw men and animals moving, I could
not with all my care direct their sight so as to distinguish them,
and they persisted in saying they could see nothing. This made me
quite unhappy....

Scarcely had we made our fire when the grass all around us was in
a blaze, obliging us to move to another spot; and the fire raged
with such violence it was in vain to attempt extinguishing it. At
length the woods--the whole country around--were on fire. We were
not sorry for an accident that might, perhaps, if any of the natives
were near, bring them to the spot. It also helped to destroy some
large swarms of mosquitoes that plagued us not a little on our
arrival. Indeed, we suffered almost as much from these insects as
from fatigue and hunger. Those flying leeches of Siberia never
quitted us day or night, unless when on the mountains, or when the
wind blew hard enough to sweep them away. We got off early on the
4th, and had a most fatiguing time till twelve o’clock, when the
sun became so oppressive it was impossible to proceed any farther
without refreshment. The skin being chafed from our shoulders, and
our feet sore, added to the difficulty of wading the deep marshes
that occurred at every instant; we were all completely exhausted.
My two Chinese, for the first time, lay down and began to cry! I
consoled them with the assurance that we must either discern the
sea, or arrive at some place where we should find plenty of food, in
the course of a day or two; and that it was a folly to give up when
we were now at the moment of getting over our difficulties. Taking
out the rest of the small biscuits that I had carefully preserved,
I divided them equally between the Cossack, the Karaikee, and
themselves, and having boiled our kettle, and drunk heartily of tea,
the whole party was soon put into good spirits again. As I kept no
part of this slender provision for myself, it was some time before
I could prevail upon the two Chinese to eat their biscuit without
sharing it with me. However, I would not take it from them; for,
although I was tired, I did not feel my strength exhausted as they
did.

While my companions slept I drew on my boots, that scarcely deserved
the name, and made an excursion with my gun to see if I could find
any game, and also to examine the route necessary to be pursued
in the afternoon. It grieved me considerably to perceive that the
impediments we had met in the morning increased so much as to render
it necessary to proceed due south. I was almost in despair, when I
beheld six large sea-gulls flying in that direction, and which at
length seemed to alight near a forest some distance off, which place,
however, I thought we should be able to reach, by exerting ourselves,
before seven or eight in the evening. I returned immediately to my
companions, who were not a little delighted by this joyful news, the
Karaikee assuring me there must be a large river or lake near, as the
kind of gulls I had seen strongly indicated this.

We now found the way moss-covered, dry, and even, and between six and
seven in the evening arrived at the forest. To our great astonishment
we beheld what we supposed a narrow lake of great length, forming a
crescent, the opposite banks being also covered with fine timber.
Here we determined to pass the night, and pitched our tent behind a
small copse, that concealed it from the lake, in order to prevent
its frightening away any water-fowl that might visit it. This being
accomplished, leaving the Chinese and Cossack to boil the tea-kettle,
the Karaikee and myself went to examine the lake. On approaching
the banks I discovered two small ducks quite near the shore, and
had the good fortune to shoot them both at one shot. Running to the
water-side to pick them up, God only knows the inexpressible joy that
filled our hearts when we beheld the water move, and satisfied our
senses that we were on the banks of a large river. It was somewhat
remarkable that the obstacles I had met with during the last two
days, and which disheartened me so much, had yet, by turning me aside
from the route I wished to take, been the cause of our falling in
with this fine stream so favorable to our wishes. We felt satisfied
it must bring us to the ocean, from which, by all appearances, we
could not be far removed. My companions were overjoyed beyond measure
at this discovery, since we could now make a raft, and descend to
the sea without undergoing such severe fatigue as heretofore, not to
mention the pleasing anticipation of being daily enabled to procure
plenty of food.

On the 6th of June I went out very early with my gun, but finding no
game, picked some handfuls of keesletya to make soup for our dinner
with the remaining duck, and returned to my companions. A number
of fine trees lay before us on the ground. I therefore marked out
those which I thought best suited for our raft. The Cossack said he
would cut them whilst I should go out in search of food, so that we
all might be enabled to work the following morning, and leave that
place in the evening. Although I walked a considerable distance
during the morning, and saw a deer and several geese, ducks, and
gulls, they were all so wild it was impossible to get within shot
of them. I returned, quite dejected and tired, along the banks of
the river, seating myself in the bushes, about two hundred yards
above our tent, where I was determined to stay and shoot something
to afford us a dinner on the following day. It was not long before a
gull came flying over my head. I shot it, and shortly after a fine
duck that fell into the river just before me. Leaning on my gun, I
pulled off my boots in order to wade after it. Just as I had got them
off, seeing the current seizing my prize, I rushed into the water,
fearful of losing it, and forgetting I had a gun in my hand until I
was out of my depth and obliged to swim. The weight of my clothes and
of the double-barrelled fowling-piece embarrassed me so much that
I could not keep myself above water, and, sinking several times, I
was at length obliged to let go my favorite gun, and even then with
difficulty kept myself from sinking. Luckily, some bushes grew up not
far below me, having their tops above the water, which I attained
and laid hold of, though I still found myself out of my depth. Here
the duck was entangled, and I secured it. There was a bush for every
four or five yards between me and the shore, and I swam from one to
another, holding the duck in my mouth, and arriving where it was
shallow enough to wade before my friends got near enough to aid me.
I regretted exceedingly the loss of a gun that had been so useful,
but we had two remaining which were sufficient for our purpose. On
the 7th we all labored hard to finish our raft, as we had food for
that day, and were to trust to our good stars to furnish us on the
following. I employed myself in cutting down immediately two large
dead trees for the side-pieces; and before two o’clock in the day we
had all the timbers well lashed together, and the raft ready to be
launched in the water. After dinner we launched our raft, which to
our great joy did not swim too low, and proved in fact everything
that we could have wished. It was composed of fifteen lower timbers,
of the thickness of a man’s thigh, and about sixteen or eighteen
feet long, two cross-pieces at each end, to which they were strongly
lashed with manilla rope and thongs, and a layer of poles and bushes
placed above all to sit on. Thus prepared, we placed our baggage upon
it, and committed ourselves to the surface of a fine large river
with a current running at the rate of more than five miles an hour.
Before quitting this place we all returned thanks to Heaven in the
most solemn manner for having conducted us thus far in safety, and
prayed fervently for a continuation of the Almighty protection we
had so often experienced. We soon discovered a material difference
between walking and our present method of travelling, having floated
at our ease, before nine at night, a greater distance than we had
made during any three days before. We had also the pleasure, for the
first time, of being free from mosquitoes and gnats. Just before
we stopped for the night I killed a fine large sheldrake that came
flying by. I determined to stop every night at ten or eleven o’clock,
and start again at four in the morning, being fearful lest during the
twilight we might run foul of rocks or trees in the way, and injure
our raft so as to oblige us again to go on foot. We encamped this
night close on the bank of the river amongst some dry grass, and not
far from a mountain called Sunkapskoy, which the Cossack thought he
knew he had traversed in the winter, and near to which was a Tongusee
tabboon. Between two and three in the morning a swan came floating
down the river. I fired at it with my rifle, and missed. Seeing it
fly toward a lake at the back of the tent, where we heard another
one, I repaired thither and got a shot at it from behind a bush,
within forty or fifty yards. The bird rose and flew a little way,
and then to our great joy fell dead in the middle of the lake. The
Cossack, tying two pieces of old timber together with a thong he had
in his pocket, floated himself along on them, and brought the swan
safely to shore. This stock of animal food put the whole party in
good spirits, and we continued our route on the raft, finding the
current increasing every hour, and promising to convey us rapidly
to the ocean. During the day I shot another swan and a duck. We
soon discovered that the mountain that the Cossack thought he knew
was much farther from the sea than he imagined, and after we had
floated near it, he did not recollect any of the country around. The
river was extremely crooked, sometimes carrying us west, sometimes
east, and in fact to all points of the compass. On the 8th, in the
evening, we stopped early, and had, for the first time since we left
the mountain, what we thought a good supper, though we were still
fearful of consuming meat more than once a day, the wild fowl being
excessively shy and difficult to shoot.

The weather became so raw and uncomfortable, being accompanied with a
drizzling rain, that we stopped earlier than usual, and continued to
halt until four o’clock in the morning of the 10th, when we proceeded
again, though a chill fog prevailed, and a good deal of wind. We had
a most unpleasant time, but, anxious to arrive at the ocean, would
not lie by, particularly as the stream had increased in rapidity, and
now hurried us along with considerable swiftness. About one o’clock,
although we were nearly in the middle of the river, which was here
upwards of a verst wide, we were suddenly seized by a whirlpool; and
in spite of our utmost efforts, having nothing but poles to guide the
raft, were drawn violently towards the left bank, and forced under
some large trees, which had been undermined by the water, and hung
over the surface of the stream, the roots still holding them fast to
the shore. I saw the danger to which we were exposed, and called out
to every one to lie flat on his face and hold fast to the baggage.
The branches were so thick it was impossible for all to escape, and
there being barely room to admit the raft under them, they swept off
the two Chinese, the Karaikee, my tin box with all my papers and
valuables, our soup-kettle, etc., etc. Nothing now remained but a
small tea-kettle and a few other things that happened to be tied fast
with thongs. The Karaikee and one of the Chinese seized hold of the
branches that swept them off, and held their heads above water, but
the youngest of the Chinese having floated away with the current, the
Cossack and myself had the greatest difficulty in paddling the raft
up to him. We came just in time to poke our poles down after him as
he sank for the third time. Fortunately he seized it, and we drew him
upon the raft half drowned. As the current was running at the rate of
six or seven miles an hour, we were carried more than half a verst
down before we gained the shore. The other Chinese and the Karaikee
crying out aloud for assistance, I ran up the shore as quickly as I
could, taking a long pole with me, and leaving the Cossack to take
care of the raft and the young Chinese. When I arrived at the spot
my Chinese cook informed me he had seized my tin box with one hand,
and was so tired of holding with the other that, if I did not come
soon to his assistance, he must leave it to the mercy of the current.
Whilst I attempted to walk out on the body of the tree, whose
branches they were holding, one of the roots broke, and very nearly
separated it from the shore. I was therefore obliged to jump off and
stride to one that was two feet under water, hauling myself along by
the branches of the others, and at length I got near enough to give
the Chinese a pole. He seized fast hold, and I pulled him between
two branches, enabling him to get a leg over one, and keep his body
above water. Thus placed, he tied the tin box with his handkerchief
to the pole, and I got it safely ashore. I was now obliged to return
and assist the Karaikee, who held by some branches far out, and where
there were no others near enough for him to reach, in order to draw
himself in. After half an hour’s labor I got them both on the bank,
neither of them knowing how to swim, and both much exhausted by the
cold and the difficulty of holding so long against a rapid current.
As the wind commenced blowing very hard, we concluded to stay all
that day where we were, it being likewise necessary to dry our
clothes, papers, etc., which were all completely wet.

In the afternoon the wind died away, and the sun shone out clear,
when I commenced drying my papers, and found many of the most
valuable of them totally ruined. The ink in some was quite effaced,
and others were so stuck together that they were destroyed in my
attempting to separate them. At six in the evening we made an
excursion along the banks of the river, to see if we could discover
any of the things we had lost, and kill some game. In our rambles
we frightened a duck from off her nest, and got six eggs. Shortly
after I killed a swan with my rifle, and the poor Karaikee going for
it, had the pleasure to find his bundle of clothes that had been
swept from the raft. We had lost nearly all our cooking utensils:
fortunately our spoons and cups were in our pockets. A small
tea-kettle without a cover had to serve for every purpose. The top of
my tin box we employed as a dish, pouring our soup into it that we
might eat it more conveniently with our spoons. We felt severely the
loss of our soup-kettle, being obliged to make our dinner and drink
our tea from the same vessel. In consequence of the high wind that
prevailed, and its being quite unsafe for our frail bark to proceed,
we remained here until four o’clock in the afternoon of the 11th,
when we departed, though it was still blowing hard, with drizzling
rain, making the weather quite cold and uncomfortable. We became
so wet and chilled that we stopped early in the evening. We left
our resting place between four and five on the 12th, with a rapid
current that conveyed us swiftly along. About mid-day we espied a
Tongusee canoe hung up between two trees, and the appearance of some
wood freshly cut made me immediately push for the shore, inspired
with the hope of finding there some inhabitants. In this expectation
we were disappointed, though there was every appearance of persons
having visited the spot but a short time before. We were not a little
overjoyed to find the canoe with paddles and everything complete. Our
raft was much water-soaked and swimming deep, and without the canoe
we should have been obliged to remain a day somewhere in order to
repair it, and put some additional logs to make it float higher. The
canoe we now lashed to one side, put the Karaikee in one end and the
Cossack in the other, with a considerable portion of our baggage,
and lightened the raft, so that it swam as high as we could wish. We
found those two persons with their paddles could turn it more quickly
and better than all five of us had been able to do with poles.