Chapter IX: Part 9

Should any feathers be disengaged during the mounting, they must be kept, and, when the bird is dry, we can replace them in their proper situations with a pair of forceps, after they have been touched on their shafts with the cement; the feathers around the place in which we intend to insert them, must be held up with the probing-needle.

If any of the feathers are deranged in mounting, and have got a wrong set, the only way to remedy the defect is to pull them out with forceps, and re-insert them with cement.

=Of Mounting Birds, Feather by Feather.= Rare birds are frequently received from foreign countries, the skins of which are in such a state of decay, that it is impossible to mount them by the ordinary processes above described. The only way in which they can be preserved, is to mount them feather by feather, which, however, is a very tedious method. It is as follows:

Procure a piece of soft pliable wire, such as is used by bell-hangers; or take some of the ordinary wire used, and make it red-hot in the fire, and allow it to cool gradually, when it will become quite pliable. Take five pieces of this, of different lengths, and form them into the skeleton of a body; namely, two for the back, one on each side, and one to represent the breast bone. Imitate the shape of the bird’s body, as nearly as possible. The wires must be roughened with a file, at the place where all the wires meet, at the neck and rump; and first wrap the place next the neck round with strong thread or fine brass wire. Two pieces intended for the back must bend gently downwards, and be gradually separated from each other towards the center, and brought together again at the place intended for the rump, where they must intersect each other, and be twisted two or three times, to keep them in their place; they are then spread out as supports for the tail; the side pieces are next formed, so as to represent the natural bulge of a bird’s body, and attached to the rump; the piece representing the breast is then formed, joined at the rump, and afterwards continued as long as the other tail-pieces, to support the center of the tail; while at the front extremity a piece is left, for the purpose of forming a neck to which to attach the head. The leg-wires are attached to the side-wires, being rolled round them for several turns, making a framework the shape of the bird.

After this body has been properly formed, it must be wrapped round with tow-sliver, and the neck thickened to its required dimensions. When this is accomplished, the head, legs, wings and tail are softened in the usual manner; the eyes are then fixed in with some cotton introduced into the orbits, with a little of the cement. The wings and tail are now placed on a table, with a flat leaden weight above each, to restore them to their natural shape. The leg-wires are then passed through the legs, commencing at the top, and bringing them out at the soles of the feet, and left with a piece extending beyond the claws.

The tail is now fixed on, by first attaching to it a quantity of cotton with the cement, and, when dry, it is fixed to the part intended as the rump.

The feet of the bird must be fixed into a piece of wood, as a perch, the ends of which must be left some inches beyond the body. The end next the tail is fixed into a table-vice, with the belly upwards, and the head pointing towards the operator. The feathers are now put on, commencing, under the tail, or crissum, with what are termed the under-tail coverts; a coating of cement must be previously laid on, to attach the feathers with. It is proceeded with upwards to the breast, and finally the length of the neck, taking care to put the proper feathers on their respective sides, as the side-feathers have all an inclination to one side. The bird is now turned with the back up, still keeping the head towards the stuffer; and the wings are fixed on with cement, and pins forced through the beards of the feathers to conceal the heads. When this is done, put on the feathers of the rump, and proceed upwards, as has been done with the belly. After reaching the top of the neck, the head is then fixed on with some cotton immersed in the cement, and allowed to dry before attempting to put on the feathers.

In this mode of mounting a bird there are several things which must be attentively adhered to; these are—first, not to put the feathers too thick, for there is a danger of running short; secondly, all the shafts of the feathers must have a small bit cut off the tip, so as to admit the cement and to give them a firmer hold; and thirdly, that the feathers should all occupy their respective parts; and fourthly, that they should be arranged as they are in nature on these parts, as the disposition of every part of the body is peculiar to itself.

At first, this mode of setting up birds will be found a difficult task, but, by a little practice and experience, it will become familiar and comparatively easy, although it will always be found a tedious process. We have seen some specimens set up in this way, which we could hardly detect from those mounted in the ordinary manner.

Besides what we have already said concerning the stuffing and preparing of birds, there are many details connected with particular species which demand our attention, and which can only be described as regarding that species. It will, however, be impossible for us to enter into all these minutely, but only give a few examples as general guides. We shall take these in systematic succession.

=Preservation of Colors.= In the preservation of the feathers of birds, little else is required to prevent the dissipation of their colors than to keep them as much as possible from air and light. These two agents, which were indispensable to their beauty and perfection in a living state, now exercise their influence as destroyers, and that influence will sooner or later work its ends according to the quality, texture, or color of the object with which it is contending. The feathers are now deprived of two agents, which in a living state contributed to their vigor and their beauty, namely, the internal circulating juices which they received from the body of the animal, and the external application of oil by the bill of the bird, supplied from a gland which is placed over the rump of all birds.

The colors of the rapacious tribes are not so evanescent as those of many others, as they, for the most part, are composed of intense browns and blacks, which are not so easily absorbed by light or air, so that they continue for a very long period without any sensible difference. There are, however, certain other points which are liable to almost immediate change of color after the death of the animals, and these are the cere and skin of the legs and feet, and the naked skin on the heads and necks of vultures and their congeners. We shall treat of these individually.

Now, as all these colors which we have described are liable to change immediately after death, it is evident that considerable nicety will be required to give the preserved specimen the appearance of nature. These must, therefore, be supplied artificially with the varnish colors, which we have particularly described in their proper place, as also the combinations for the formation of compound colors. The reddish-brown color mentioned, of which the fold is composed, must be touched by a mixture of the scarlet varnish, with a little powdered burnt umber, and the blue streaks with which it is traversed, colored above with cobalt blue. All the varnish colors have a tendency to shine, which, it will be evident, is not the character of any part of the skin or caruncle of the bird described. As soon, therefore, as it is thoroughly dry, which will be in about an hour, the whole surface must be gently rubbed with very fine sand-paper, which will completely remove the gloss and give the appearance of nature.

Some nicety will be required in painting betwixt the hairs, but it can be easily managed with a little caution. Sometimes these hairs are liable to become brown, in which case they can be touched with the black varnish.

As these birds are inhabitants of warm climates, some care is requisite after killing them, to prevent decay; the tendons of the legs should be extracted to prevent their being attacked by moths, and their place supplied by some cotton and preservatives. The tendons are extracted by means of a longitudinal incision made behind the tarsus. The edges of this incision can easily be brought together when the bird is under the process of preparation.

COLLECTING AND PRESERVING BIRDS’ EGGS AND NESTS.

Few objects of natural history are more interesting than the nests of birds. To the reflecting naturalist they open up a wide field for inquiry. Speaking of the examination of birds, in the exercise of their mechanical arts of constructing nests, Professor Rennie says: “This work is the business of their lives—the duty which calls forth that wonderful ingenuity which no experience can teach, and which no human skill can rival. The infinite variety of modes in which the nests of birds are constructed, and the exquisite adaptation of the nest to the peculiar habits of the individual, offer a subject of almost exhaustless interest.” The number and variety of the eggs of birds are curious subjects of contemplation, and should be carefully noted whenever opportunity offers. They are as essential to the personal history of the species, as any other part of our inquiries.

The eggs are emptied of their contents by making a very small hole at each end with a point. By blowing at one of the ends, the contents will escape by the other, unless the young has been already formed; in which case a larger hole must be made in the side of the egg, and the contents removed with a small hook. The hole should then be stopped up by pasting a little goldbeater’s leaf over it. The eggs are then either returned to their nest, in which they ought to be cemented, or should be fixed down by one side to cards, with the name and locality attached.

The best manner of conveying loose eggs to a distance, is to put some cotton at the bottom of the nest, and then another layer above them. The nests should all be put in separate boxes if possible, and so packed that the pressure of the lid may not injure the eggs, or a box with several compartments should be used, taking care that each is carefully marked. It would also be of consequence to have the nests attached to the branches, with those species which build on trees, which will enable us to trace the ingenious means employed by those little animals in constructing their habitations. In sending home specimens from a foreign country, the seams of the box should be covered by pitched cloth to protect them from the influence of moisture.

To preserve the shells of eggs, first take care to clear them of their contents; get a small, fine-pointed common syringe, such as is sold in toy-shops for a penny or twopence, and inject the specimen with water until it comes out quite clean. When an egg has been partly hatched or addled, the removal of the contents generally includes that of the internal membrane or pellicle; this makes the shell weaker. When the specimens are quite clean internally, and have become dry (which will be in a day or two), take the syringe and inject them with a strong solution of isinglass (with a little sugar-candy added to prevent its cracking); blow this out again whilst warm. Let the shell get dry, and then wash the outside with a soft wet cloth to remove saline particles, dirt from the nest, etc. This method varnishes the inside, and the first specimen on which it has been tried was the before-mentioned hedge-accentor’s egg, which is to this day as bright in color as a fresh specimen.

Also in a pair of nightjar’s eggs, of which species the delicate gray tint is particularly evanescent, one was injected in the manner described, and the other was not; in the first the gray is still perfectly defined, in the other it has entirely disappeared. Eggs which have lost their internal pellicle become strengthened by this process, and those which have not lost their color greatly improved.

SKINNING, PRESERVING, AND SETTING UP REPTILES, AND MOLLUSCOUS ANIMALS,
ETC.

TORTOISES AND TURTLES.

Skinning. The first operation is to separate the back and breast shells with a strong short knife, or chisel. If the force of the hand is inadequate, a mallet may be used, taking care not to strike so hard as to crack the shell.

These two bony plates being covered by the skin, or by scales, the scapula, and all the muscles of the arm and neck, in place of being attached to the ribs and spine, are placed below, from which cause the tortoise has been termed a retroverted animal. The vertebral extremity of the scapula is articulated with the shield, and the opposite extremity of the clavicle with the breast-plate in such a manner that the shoulders form a ring for the passage of the windpipe and gullet.

After the turtle is opened, all the flesh which adheres to the breast-plate, and also to the upper shell, is removed, while attention is paid to the parts as above described. The head, fore-feet, and tail are skinned as in quadrupeds; but none of these must be removed from the upper shell, but left attached.

All the fleshy parts being removed, the shells are washed out with a sponge, and carefully dried. They are then slightly rubbed with the arsenical soap.

=Stuffing.= Wires are now passed through the middle of the legs, after the skin has been rubbed with the preservative. The skull is returned to its place, and the whole of the head, neck, and legs stuffed with chopped flax or tow. The parts of the skin which have been cut are then sewed together. The back and breast-plates are then united by four small holes, being bored at their edges, and united by strings or small wires. The junction of the bones may then be attached with the cement, colored so as to correspond with the shell.

If the calipash is dirty, it may be cleaned with a slight solution of nitric-acid and water; afterwards clean washed, oiled, and then rubbed hard with a woolen rag, to give it a polish.

CROCODILES AND LIZARDS IN GENERAL.

=Skinning.= All this tribe are skinned in the same manner as quadrupeds. Care is, however, required in skinning the tails of the smaller species, as they are very liable to break. The skins being of a dry nature, require but little of the preservative. After they are thoroughly dried they will keep a very long time without decay.

=Stuffing.= Stuff them as directed for quadrupeds. They admit of but little variety of attitude. The small species are exceedingly apt to change color in drying, which must be imitated with the colored varnishes, and afterwards dimmed with sand-paper. To keep them in their natural colors, they should be preserved in spirits.

The skins of such as are glossy should be varnished after they are perfectly dry.

SERPENTS IN GENERAL.

=Skinning.= In skinning serpents there is some nicety required, to cut them so as not to disfigure the scales; the opening should be made in the side, commencing at the termination of the scales; and they should on no account be divided, as upon their number the species is mostly determined.

It is a very frequent practice to send home serpents without the head, which renders them quite unfit for any scientific purpose. This proceeds from the fear of receiving poison from the fangs. But there is not the slightest danger of being affected, as these can easily be cut out by means of pincers. The head should be cleaned and the brain removed, in the same manner as recommended for birds and quadrupeds, the skull anointed and then returned into the skin.

When the skin is removed, it may be rolled up and packed in small space. The simplest way to preserve small species is to put them in spirits, which must not be too strong, as it will destroy the colors.

Mr. Burchell, in his four years’ journey through Africa, glued the skins of the smaller serpents perfectly flat on paper, which preserved the size of the animal, and the skin retained all the beauty of life.

=Stuffing.= The skin, if not recent, must be first softened in the manner recommended for birds. A piece of wire is taken, the length of the animal, which must be wrapped round with tow till it is of a proper thickness, and above the whole a spiral band of sliver should be carefully wrapped. It is then placed inside of the skin, and sewed up. The eyes are placed in, as directed for quadrupeds and birds. When dry, give the serpent a coat of varnish, and then twist it into any attitude wished. A favorite and striking one is to have it wound round some animal, and in the act of killing it.

FROGS AND TOADS.

=Skinning.= The mouth is opened, and the first vertebræ of the neck is cut. The whole inside of the mouth is cut out with scissors. The two jaws are next raised up and the skin is pushed back with the fingers of the right hand, while the body is drawn back in a contrary direction with the other hand, and the whole body is then drawn out at the mouth. The legs are then returned to their proper place.

=Stuffing.= The simplest method of stuffing these animals, is with sand. A small funnel is placed into the mouth, and pour in well dried sand. When full, a small piece of cotton is pushed into the throat, with some of the cement, to keep the sand from escaping on moving the animal.

The frog is then placed on a board, and in an attitude. When quite dry, give it a coat of varnish. When this has perfectly dried, very small perforations are made under the belly with the point of a needle, and the sand allowed to escape, leaving the body in its natural form.

These animals are liable to change of color from drying, and should, therefore, be painted with the varnish to their natural hues. There is less difficulty with toads in this respect, as they are usually of a brown color, and not liable to much change.

They may be perfectly preserved in spirits.

PRESERVING SPIDERS, GALLY-WORMS, AND INSECTS.

SPIDERS.

The general directions which we shall give respecting insects, hold good as to spiders, only we must mention there is considerable difficulty in preserving the bodies of spiders, which generally, in a very short time, shrink into a shapeless mass. To prevent this, the body should be pricked with the triangular awl and the contents pressed out; it should then be stuffed with very fine carded cotton or down, which can be pushed in by a pricker, blunted a little at the point. When properly distended, the small aperture should be filled up with a little cement, or a solution of gum-arabic. The legs of the larger species, such as the bird-catching Mygale and the Scorpions, are also liable to shrink, and should be stuffed in the same manner as that of the body.

In those species of spiders which we have thus prepared, and whose colors are rich and likely to be affected by the action of the atmosphere, we must endeavor to arrest its progress by immediately imbuing the animal, after it is set up, with the solution of corrosive sublimate, and in an hour after with a thin coating of a very weak white-spirit varnish; for this purpose, take a teaspoonful of the ordinary white-spirit or elastic varnish, and add to it two teaspoonfuls of spirit of wine; apply this wash with a fine camel hair brush, which will quickly dry, and have a strong tendency to preserve the color. The varnish, being thus reduced in strength, will not leave any gloss on the insect, nor will it be at all perceptible.

Mr. Samouelle, author of “The Entomologist’s Useful Compendium,” in speaking of preserving spiders, says: “The best preserved specimens that I have seen are those where the contents of the abdomen have been taken out and filled with fine sand. I have preserved several in this way, and find it answer the purpose.”

Mr. Donovan makes the following observations on the preservation of spiders:

“To determine whether some species of spiders could be preserved with their natural colors, I put several into spirits of wine; those with gibbous bodies soon after discharged a very considerable quantity of viscid matter, and therewith all their beautiful colors; the smallest retained their form, and only appeared rather paler in the other colors than when they were living.

“During the course of last summer, among other spiders, I met with a rare species; it was of a bright yellow color, elegantly marked with black, red, green, and purple; by some accident it was unfortunately crushed to pieces in the chip-box wherein it was confined, and was, therefore, thrown aside as useless; a month or more after that time I observed that such parts of the skin as had dried against the inside of the box, retained the original brightness of color in a considerable degree. To further the experiment, I made a similar attempt, with some caution, on the body of another spider, and, though the colors were not perfectly preserved, they appeared distinct.

“From further observations I find, that if you kill the spider and immediately after extract the entrails, then inflate them by means of a blow-pipe, you may preserve them tolerably well; you must clean them on the inside no more than is sufficient to prevent mouldiness, lest you injure the colors, which certainly, in many kinds, depend on substance that lies beneath the skin.”

Scorpions, and all the spider tribe, may be sent home in spirits, which will preserve them perfectly, and when taken out and dried, they will be found to have suffered nothing from their immersion. We have seen some specimens set up, after being sent home in spirits, which rivaled any which have been preserved in a recent state. The animals of this class are particularly liable to the attacks of insects, particularly in warm countries, on which account the mode of transporting them and keeping them in spirits is, perhaps, superior to all others. If, however, they are set up in a warm climate, they should be well soaked with the solution of corrosive sublimate, made according to the recipe of Mr. Waterton.

For the setting up of this class, see the directions for preserving insects.

INSECTS.

Every country of the world is replete with this extensive and interesting class of beings, whose forms are infinitely diversified, and whose species are the most numerous of any class in the animal kingdom.

Before any attempt is made to collect insects, certain apparatus must be provided, not only to enable us to secure them, but also to preserve them after they are caught.

First, then, we must be provided with a quantity of wooden boxes, from 18 to 20 inches long, 15 to 17 inches wide, and two inches deep. These should have well-filled lids, with hinges, and fastened by a wire catch, or small bolt. The bottom should have a layer of cork, about the sixth of an inch in thickness, which should be fixed down with very strong paste, made according to our recipe; and also some wire nails, to prevent it from springing. Over the cork should be pasted white paper. The box should be anointed inside with oil of petroleum. If that cannot be procured, make an infusion of strong aromatic plants, such as cinnamon, aloes, thyme, laurel, sage, rosemary, or cloves, and wash the inside with it. A small packet of camphor should be wrapped in a piece of rag, and deposited in a corner of the box.

We must also be provided with a quantity of _insect pins_ of different sizes, corresponding with the size of the insect. The pins used for setting should be longer than those which are taken to the field.

Bottles, with mouths from an inch and a quarter to two inches in diameter, must also be procured, and these must be three-fourths full of spirits, such as weak brandy, rum, gin, or whisky.

=Hunting-Box.= We must, besides, have what is termed a hunting-box, for carrying in our pocket, when seeking after insects. This should be made of strong pasteboard or chip, for lightness, or, if this is no consideration, of tin. It must be of an oblong-oval shape, rounded at the ends, for the convenience of the pocket. It should be from eight to ten inches long, four to five inches wide, and two-and-a-half to three inches deep. It must have a layer of cork both in the bottom and top of the lid, inside for attaching insects to, when caught during the day. The larger insects are placed at the bottom, and the smaller ones on the lid.

=The Entomological.= We next procure a net, as in figure 26, constructed similar to a bat-fowling net. This is either made of fine gauze or coarse muslin; it may either be green or white—the latter is the best for observing small insects which may be caught; the green, however, is better adapted for catching moths. The net-rods should be made of hickory, beech, hazel, or holly; they ought to be five feet in length, quite round, smooth, and tapering to an obtuse point, as at figure 24; the oblique cross-piece at the point should be of cane, and fitted into the angular ferrule; the rod must be divided into three or four pieces, so that it may be taken asunder and carried in the pocket; the upper part of each joint must have a ferrule affixed to it, for the purpose of articulating the other pieces. Each joint should have a notch or check to prevent the rod from twisting.

The net itself, figure 31, must have a welting all around it, doubled so as to form a groove for the reception of the rods. In the center of the upper part or point it must have a small piece of chamois leather, so as to form a kind of hinge; this must be bound round the welting and divided in the middle, so as to prevent the cross pieces from slipping over each other; it shows about four inches of the gauze turned up, so as to form a bag; there are strings for the purpose of passing through the staple, to which the net is firmly drawn on each side. When the net is used a handle is to be held in each hand.

If it is intended to take insects on the wing, by means of this net, for which it is admirably adapted, it may be folded together in an instant. If the gauze is fine enough, and preserved whole, even the smallest insect cannot escape. It may be also applied in catching coleopterous insects, which are never on the wing, as well as caterpillars. When used for this purpose the entomologist must hold it expanded under trees, while another must beat the branches with a stick. Great numbers of both insects and larvæ will fall in the gauze, and by this means many hundreds may be captured in a day.

Another method is to spread a large table-cloth under trees and bushes, and then beat them with a stick. An umbrella reversed has frequently been used for the same purpose. Bose, the celebrated naturalist, used this last method—he held the umbrella in the left hand, while he beat the bushes with the other.

=The Hoop or Aquatic Net, Figure 26.= This net is used for capturing aquatic insects, which are either lurking at the bottom, swimming through the liquid element, or adhering to plants. It may also be successfully used in sweeping amongst grass and low herbage for coleopterous insects and others which are generally to be found in such situations. The socket, for the handle, may be made of such dimensions as will answer the second joint of the entomological net-rod, which will save carrying another handle; or a walking-stick may be made to fit it.

=A Phial, Figure 33.= This may either be made of tin or crystal, and used for collecting coleopterous and other creeping insects. The mouth should be nearly an inch wide, and a cork exactly fitted to it, in the center of which must be inserted a small quill, to afford air, and inserted about an inch beyond the cork, to prevent the insects from escaping. If the bottle is made of tin, and of a larger size, a tin tube must be introduced into its side, and terminating externally at the surface.

=A Digger, Figure 28.= The instrument is either made of iron or steel, and is about six or seven inches in length, fixed into a turned wooden handle. It is used for collecting the pupæ of lepidopterous insects, at the roots and in the clefts of the bark of trees; and also for pulling off the bark, particularly from decayed trees, under which many curious and rare insects are frequently found. It is most useful with an arrow-headed point.

=Setting Needles, Figure 29.= Fitted into a small wooden handle, the needle itself should be about three inches long, and about the thickness of a small darning-needle, slightly bent from about the middle. Figure 30 is a straight needle which is used for extending the parts of insects; at one end of the handle is the needle, and at the other a camel-hair pencil, which is used for removing any dirt or dust which may be on the insects. The pencil may be occasionally drawn through the lips, brought to a fine point, and used for disposing the antennæ and palpi of insects of the minute kinds.

=Brass Pliers, Figure 25.= These are used for picking up small insects from the roots of grass, etc. They may also be used for laying hold of small insects, while they are yet free and not set up.

=Fan Forceps.= This very useful instrument to the entomologist, must be made of steel or iron, and about eight or ten inches in length; its general construction is like that of a pair of scissors, and it is held and used in the same manner. Towards the points are formed a pair of fans, which may either be square, oval, hexagonal, or octagonal in the edges, and the centers covered with fine gauze. The general size of the fans is from four to six inches. These are used for capturing bees, wasps, and muscæ. They are also used for catching butterflies, moths, and sphinges. If an insect is on a leaf, both leaf and insect may be inclosed within the fans; or if they are on a wall or the trunk of a tree, they may be very easily secured by them.

If a butterfly, sphinx, or moth, are captured by the forceps, while yet between the fans, they should be pressed pretty smoothly with the thumb-nail, on the thorax or body, taking care, however, not to crush it. It may then be taken into the hand, and a pin passed through the thorax, and then stuck into the bottom of your hunting-box.

=Quills.= These are of great use in carrying minute insects. They should be neatly stopped with cork and cement at one end, the other end should be provided with a small movable cork for a stopper. Each end should be wrapped carefully round with a silk thread waxed, to prevent them from splitting.

=Pocket Larvæ-Box.= For collecting caterpillars, this box is very essential: it consists merely of a chip-box, with a hole pierced in the center of the top and bottom, and covered with gauze, for the admission of air. It will be necessary to put into the box some of the leaves on which the larvæ feed, as they are very voracious, and cannot long exist without food.

=Pill-Boxes.= No entomologist should be without five or six dozen of these useful articles. They are of great value in collecting the smaller species of lepidopterous insects, such as the tinea, etc., and only one specimen should be put in each box, as, if more than one, they are apt to injure each other’s wings by beating against each other.

=Setting Boards.= These must be made of deal board, from a foot to fifteen inches long, and eight or ten inches broad, with a piece of wood run across the ends, to prevent them from warping. They are covered with cork, which must be perfectly smooth on the surface, with white paper pasted over it. Several boards will be required, by persons who are making collections, as some of the insects take a considerable time to dry, so that they may be fit for introducing into a cabinet.

The boards should be kept in a frame made for the purpose. It should consist of a top, bottom, and two sides; the back and front should have the frames of doors attached by small hinges, and their centers covered with fine gauze, for the free passage of air; the sides should have small pieces of wood projecting from them, for the boards to rest on; which should be at such a distance from each other that the pins may not be displaced in pushing the boards in or drawing them out. The frame should be placed in a dry, airy situation.

=Braces.= These are merely small pieces of card, cut in the form exhibited, Fig. 36, attached to the butterfly and other insects; and also at Fig. 39. They are pinned down on the insects, to keep their wings, etc., in a proper state, till they acquire a set.

SETTING AND PRESERVING INSECTS.

Of the orders Coleoptera, Orthoptera, and Hemiptera. These are easily preserved.

They are killed by immersing in scalding water, and then laid upon blossom or blotting paper, for the purpose of absorbing as much of the moisture as possible; or they may be placed in a tin box, with a little camphor in it, near the fire, which soon kills them. This is, besides, of considerable effect in their preservation.

Insects of the genera _Gryllus_ (Cricket), _Locusta_ (Locusts), etc., have tender bodies, and are sure to shrivel in drying. The intestines should therefore be extracted, while they are yet moist, and skin filled with cotton, as directed with some of the spiders.

When Coleopterous insects are set with the wings displayed, the elytra should be separated, and the pin passed through their body near the middle of the thorax, as in Fig. 35. The wings are exhibited as in the act of flying, and are retained in this situation until they are quite dry, by the cord braces. The insects of this order should always have the pin passed through the right elytra on the right side, as shown at Fig. 37, that is, it should pass underneath, between the first pair of feet and the intermediate ones.

The legs, palpi and antennæ should be displayed in a natural order on the setting board, and retained in the position by means of pins and braces, as shown in Figs. 35, 37. These must be kept in that state, either longer or shorter, according to the insect and the state of the weather, as, if placed in a cabinet before they are quite dry, they are sure to get mouldy, and will ultimately rot.

Minute insects should be attached to cards with gum, as shown, Figs. 34 and 39, with the legs and other organs displayed. Entomologists generally adapt triangular cards as at Fig. 38, as less liable to hide the parts of the insects.

=Order Lepidoptera.= Mr. Haworth, in mentioning the tenacity of life in the Goat Moth, states that “the usual way of compressing the _thorax_ is not sufficient to kill this insect. They will live several days after the most severe pressure has been given there, to the great uneasiness of any humane entomologists. The methods of suffocation by tobacco or sulphur are equally inefficacious, unless continued for a greater number of hours, than is proper for the preservation of the specimens. Another method now in practice is better, and however fraught with cruelty it may appear to the inexperienced collector, is the greatest piece of _comparative mercy_ that can, in this case, be administered. When the larger Moths must be killed, destroy them at once by the _insertion of a strong, red-hot needle_ into their thickest part, beginning at the front of _the thorax_. If this be properly _done_, instead of _lingering through several days, they are dead in a moment_. It appears to me, however, that insects being animals of _cold_ and _sluggish juices_, are not so susceptible of the sensations we call pain, as those which enjoy a warmer temperature of body, and a swifter circulation of the fluids. To the philosophic mind it is self-evident that they have not such acute organs of feeling pain as other animals of a _similar size_, whose juices are endowed with a quicker motion, and possess a constant, regular and genial warmth.”

Butterflies are soon killed by passing a pin through the thorax. The pin passed through the thorax of small moths generally proves almost instantly fatal to them.

The best manner of preserving the minute species of moths is by pill-boxes, as above stated, each moth being kept in a separate box. We have found the following the best mode of destroying them:

A piece of flat hardwood is taken, and a circular groove cut in it, sufficiently deep to admit the mouth of a tumbler being placed within it. In the center of the wood, pierce a hole about a third of an inch in diameter in its center: place the pill box under this tumbler, with the lid off, and the insect will soon creep out; but whether it does so or not, a match well primed with sulphur is lighted and placed into the hole under the center of the tumbler, which will suffocate the insect in a few seconds. I have also found this an effectual method of killing the larger species of butterflies, and moths. In piercing them, the pin should be quite perpendicular, that no part of their minute frame should be hidden by its oblique position.

The larger insects of this order are set by braces chiefly. A single one should in the first place be introduced under the wing, near the thorax, as shown in Fig. 36, and a longer brace extending over the wings. These should not bear upon the wings, but be ready to rest gently on them, when required. The wings are now elevated to their proper position by the setting needle, and other braces are used as necessity dictates. The feet and antennæ are extended and kept in their places by means of pins, in which operation small braces are also occasionally used.

The French entomologists set butterflies, moths, and sphinges, on a piece of soft wood, in which they have excavated a groove for the reception of the body, as deep as the insertion of the wings. They are otherwise preserved as above directed.

In the larger butterflies, moths, and sphinges, the abdomen should be perforated, its contents extracted, and then stuffed with fine cotton, after having been washed internally with the solution of corrosive sublimate. Indeed, the cotton should also be rubbed with arsenical soap before being introduced, as these insects are particularly liable to the attack of smaller insects, such as the mite.

Several of the moth tribe are extremely liable to change their color some time after they have been placed in a cabinet. This change is frequently occasioned by an oily matter which is common to many of them. This first makes its appearance in small spots on the body, but soon spreads itself over the abdomen, thorax, and wings; and ends in a total obliteration of all the beautiful markings. A method which has been sometimes successfully adopted is to sprinkle all the wings with powdered chalk, and holding a heated iron over it; the chalk absorbs the grease, and may then be blown off by means of a pair of small bellows. Another way of applying the chalk, and perhaps the better of the two, is to throw some powdered chalk on the face of a heated iron, and then put it into a piece of linen cloth, and apply it to the body of the insect; the heat of the iron will soften the grease, and the chalk will absorb it.

Another method is to hold a heated iron over the insects for a few minutes, and then to wash the spotted or greasy places with ox-gall and water, applied with a camel-hair pencil, and afterwards wash it with pure water, and dry it by an application of blotting paper, and when perfectly dry imbue it with the solution of corrosive sublimate. But grease seldom appears where the contents of the abdomen have been removed.

=Orders Neuroptera, Hymenoptera and Diptera.= The Dragon Flies (_Libellulæ_) are frequently very difficult to kill, being powerful and nervous animals. When caught they should be transfixed through the sides, and it sometimes becomes necessary to put braces on their wings to prevent them from fluttering while in the hunting box. They may also be killed sometimes by placing them under a tumbler and suffocating them. Some entomologists put them in scalding water for an instant.

The contents of the abdomen should always be removed from Dragon Flies, otherwise it will become black and shining through the skin, and destroy the beautiful bands with which they are ornamented. They can be stuffed with cotton or a small roll of paper introduced. If these precautions are attended to, the insect will preserve the perfect beauty of its living state.

The other species of these orders soon die after being transfixed. They may be set by braces and pins, as represented in Figs. 35 and 37.

Some of the _Dipterous_ insects are very perishable in point of color after death, particularly in the abdomen, the skin of which is very thin. The only way of remedying this is to pierce the abdomen, and after taking out the contents the cavity should be filled with a powdered paint the same color as the living subjects, which will shine through and give it all the appearance of nature.

METHOD OF RELAXING DRIED INSECTS.

Insects frequently get stiffened before the entomologist has leisure to get them set; and it usually happens that those sent home from foreign countries have been ill set, and require to be placed in more appropriate attitudes after they have fallen into the hands of the scientific collector. They may be relaxed and made as flexible as recently killed specimens by the following simple process, from which they can receive no injury: Pin them on a piece of cork, and place the cork in a large basin or pan of tepid water, and cover the top tight with a damp cloth, taking care that it is sufficiently high not to injure the insects. In most cases a few hours is sufficient to restore them to their original flexibility, so that they may be easily put in their proper positions. In some instances, three or four days are necessary to relax them thoroughly, so as to set the wings without the risk of breaking them; no force whatever must be used with any of the members. When set up, after being relaxed, they must be treated in exactly the same manner as recent specimens.

We must again caution the entomologist to be careful that he applies the solution of corrosive sublimate to all his species, otherwise there is little chance of their continuing long without being attacked by the mite; they ought to be frequently imbued.

Mr. Waterton, who has studied deeply the subject of preserving animal substances, and applied them not only in our own country, but also under the influence of a tropical climate, makes the following observations on the preservation of Insects: “I only know of two methods,” says he, “to guard preserved insects from the depredations of living ones. The first is, by poisoning the atmosphere—the second is, by poisoning the prepared specimens themselves, so effectually that they are no longer food for the depredators. But there are some objections to both these modes; a poisoned atmosphere will evaporate in time if not attended to, or if neglected to be renewed; and there is great difficulty in poisoning some specimens on account of their delicacy and minuteness. If you keep spirits of turpentine in the boxes which contain your preserved specimens, I am of opinion that those specimens will be safe as long as the odor of the turpentine remains in the box, for it is said to be the most pernicious of all scents to insects. But it requires attention to keep up an atmosphere of spirits of turpentine; if it be allowed to evaporate entirely, then there is a clear and undisputed path open to the inroads of the enemy; he will take advantage of your absence or neglect, and when you return to view your treasure you will find it in ruins. Spirits of turpentine poured into a common glass inkstand, in which there is a piece of sponge, and placed in a corner of your box, will create a poisoned atmosphere and kill every insect there. The poisoning of your specimens by means of corrosive sublimate in alcohol, is a most effective method. As soon as the operation is properly performed, the depredating insect perceives that the prepared specimen is no longer food for it, and will forever cease to attack it; but then every part must have received the poison, otherwise those parts where the poison has not reached will still be exposed to the enemy, and he will pass unhurt over the poisoned parts till he arrives at that part of your specimen which is still wholesome food for him. Now, the difficulty lies in applying the solution to very minute specimens without injuring their appearance; and all that can be said is, to recommend unwearied exertion, which is sure to be attended with great skill, and great skill will insure surprising success.”

I am convinced that there is no absolute and lasting safety for prepared specimens in zoölogy from the depredations of insects, except by poisoning every part of them with a solution of corrosive sublimate in alcohol.

Mr. Waterton is of opinion that tight boxes with aromatic atmospheres are not to be depended upon in the preservation of insects. He says: “The tight boxes and aromatic atmospheres will certainly do a great deal, but they are liable to fail, for this obvious reason, viz.: That they do not render forever absolutely baneful and abhorrent to the depredator that which in itself is nutritious and grateful to him. In an evil hour, through neglect in keeping up a poisoned atmosphere, the specimens collected by industry and prepared by art, and which ought to live, as it were, for the admiration of future ages, may fall a prey to an intruding and almost invisible enemy, so that, unless the solution of corrosive sublimate in alcohol is applied, you are never perfectly safe from surprise. I have tried a decoction of aloes, wormwood and walnut leaves, thinking they would be of service on account of their bitterness. The trial completely failed.”

Many entomologists are satisfied with possessing the insect in its perfect or image condition. But it is exceedingly interesting to be able to trace these through their different states of existence from the egg to the perfect insect. Besides, we are certain to produce the insects in the highest state of preservation when we breed them ourselves, and it is besides very interesting to have the eggs of the different species as well as the caterpillar and pupa.

=The Eggs of Insects.= The eggs of insects preserve their form and color in a cabinet, in general, without much trouble. Swammerdam had a method of preserving them when they appeared to be giving way. He made a perforation within them with a fine needle, pressed out their contents, afterwards inflated them with a glass blow-pipe, and filled them with a mixture of resin and oil of spike.

=The Larvæ, or Caterpillars.= The easiest way of destroying the Caterpillar is by immersion in spirits of wine. They may be retained for a long time in this spirit without destroying their color.

Mr. William Weatherhead had an ingenious mode of preserving larvæ. He killed the caterpillar, as above directed, and having made a small puncture in the tail, gently pressed out the contents of the abdomen, and then filled the skin with fine dry sand, and brought the animal to its natural circumference. It is then exposed to the air to dry, and it will have become quite hard in the course of a few hours, after which the sand may be shaken out at the small aperture and the caterpillar then gummed to a piece of card.

Another method is, after the entrails are squeezed out, to insert into the aperture a glass tube which has been drawn to a very fine point. The operator must blow through this pipe while he keeps turning the skin slowly round over a charcoal fire; the skin soon becomes hardened, and, after being anointed with oil of spike and resin, it may be placed in a cabinet when dry. A small straw or pipe of grass may be substituted for the glass pipe. Some persons inject them with colored wax after they are dry.

=The Pupa.= When the insects have escaped from their pupa skin, the skin usually retains the shape and general appearance it did while it contained the insect. It is therefore ready for the cabinet, without any preparation whatever. But if the animal has not quitted its envelope, it will be necessary either to drop the pupa into warm water, or to heat it in a tin case before the fire; the former mode, however, is the best, and least liable to change the colors of the pupa.

METHOD OF BREEDING INSECTS.

=Breeding Cages.= These must be made of oak, or other hard wood, as pine is apt to kill the caterpillars from its strong smell of turpentine. The best form for these is represented in Fig. 32. The sides and front are covered with gauze; a is a small square box, for the reception of a phial of water, for placing the stalks of plants in, on which it is intended the caterpillars are to feed. The most convenient size for a breeding cage is eight inches in breadth, four deep, and one foot in height. It is not proper to place within a cage more than one species of caterpillar, as many of them prey upon each other. Indeed, animals of the same species will devour each other if left without food. The caterpillars of insects, for the most part, will only eat one particular kind of food, so that it is better to have no more than one sort in a cage.

There must be at the bottom of the cage earth to the depth of two inches; this should be mixed with some fine sand and vegetable earth, if possible, to prevent it from drying. The cages should be kept in a cool cellar or damp place, because many insects change into the pupa condition under the earth; so that it would require to be somewhat moist, to prevent the destruction of the animal. The shell or case of the pupa also becomes hard, if the earth is not kept moist; and, in that event, the animal will not have sufficient strength to break its case at the time it ought to emerge from its confinement, and must consequently die, which but too frequently happens from mismanagement.

Some seasons are more favorable than others for the production of caterpillars, and to keep each kind by themselves would require an immense number of cages, as well as occupy much time in changing the food, and paying due attention to them. To obviate this, some persons have large breeding cages, with a variety of food in them, which must be cleaned out every two days, and fresh leaves given to the caterpillars; as, on due attention to feeding, the beauty and vigor of the coming insects will much depend.