A steam voyage down the Danube, vol. 1 of 2

Chapter VIII

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First appearance of Wallachia--The Iron Door--Reform of the Hungarian representation--Corporations--Finances--Education--Justice--Wallachian Gladova--Servian Gladova--Trajan’s bridge--Navigable stations on the Danube--Wonders of steam--Speech of Prince Milosch--Neighbourhood of Gladova--Wallachian hut--Matrimonial speculation--Tea-drinking--Music-- Charms of procrastination--Departure from Gladova--Bends in the Danube--Approach to Vidin--Magnate’s costume--Visit to Hussein Pacha--The pacha’s deputy--An interpreter--Explanations--Pleasures of disguise.

♦ APPEARANCE OF WALLACHIA ♦

Count Szechenyi had already apprized me of his intention to go down the Danube as far as Rutschuk. As we were preparing, on the following morning (October 3), to set out from Orsova, he added, that his object was to land at Giurgeva, a Wallachian town, nearly opposite Rutschuk, and thence to proceed to Bucharest, in order to obtain the sanction of the hospodar, for the improvements which were meditated in the bed and on the banks of the river within his principality. I took my seat with the Count in his phaeton, and we were followed by another carriage, occupied by his secretary, Mr. Tasner. Our road by the side of the river was scarcely practicable for such vehicles, as frequently we had to be drawn over narrow abrupt rocks, which, sloping towards the Danube, afforded the agreeable prospect of a cold bath, as well as of fractured limbs, in case of a break down. In an hour after quitting Orsova we passed the frontier of Wallachia, where, if we were to Judge from first appearances, misery seemed to have taken up her favourite abode. The cabins of the poor people were constructed of hurdles, not defended, even by the addition of mud on the inside, from wind and rain. Crowds of children appeared at the doors, literally naked, in company with pigs and goats, dogs, cocks and hens, and ducks, as if all were of the same order of existence. Some of these wretched habitations were altogether underground.

♦ THE IRON DOOR ♦

We soon arrived at the commencement of the celebrated “Iron Door” of the Danube. It is a series of rapids so called from the extreme difficulty of passing them, and also probably from the almost impenetrable nature and ferruginous colour of the rocks, which form the entire bed of the river to the distance of nearly three miles. These rocks, though so long washed by the torrent are still as rough as when the river first found or forced its way amongst them. They are in large masses, tumbled about in every sort of shape and position, and now that they were completely exposed to view, in consequence of the depression of the river, they looked terrific; the gaping jaws, as it were, of some infernal monster. When the Danube is at its ordinary height, replenished by its usual tributaries, the roar of its waters in hurrying through the “Iron Door,” is borne on the winds for many miles around, like the sound of continued peals of thunder.

The present state of the river was taken advantage of by the engineers, for the purpose of making an accurate survey of the channel. This is another of the passages in which it will be necessary either to excavate a canal in the bosom of the rocks, or to erect one upon them which might be fed from the springs of the neighbouring heights.

♦ HUNGARIAN REPRESENTATION ♦

I had noticed on the Servian bank, opposite Vedran’s Cave, a tablet cut in the face of the rock, with an inscription upon it which seemed to be in good preservation, though we were not near enough to read it. It records, as the Count informed me, the completion of a line of road on that side of the river, cut through the solid rock by order of Trajan, of which a considerable portion still remains visible as far as the Iron Door.

Though reminded occasionally by jolts which threatened the entire dissolution of our carriage, that we were traversing no Roman road, I had every reason to hope that a few years would bring about great changes in Hungary, in that respect. As to the other reforms in contemplation, I believe there is no objection to the nomination by the sovereign of the high sheriffs for the fifty counties, of which Hungary, including Croatia, is composed, the more especially as in each of the counties two under-sheriffs are selected by the nobles. But the state of the representation stands greatly in need of amendment. At present each of the counties sends to the diet two deputies, who are chosen by the nobles, comprehending under that title all persons who are descended from noble families. There are besides, eighteen chapters of cathedrals which return two deputies for each, and fifty free towns, each of which returns also its two members. But the representatives of the chapters and the free towns have no vote in the lower chamber of the diet, they have only the privilege of delivering their opinions upon any measure under discussion. It is obvious that this difference between the powers of the several classes of deputies must be speedily done away.

Again, if a magnate, who is called to the diet by the king’s letter, cannot attend, he sends an individual as his proxy; but this substitute does not sit in his principal’s place in the upper house; he sits in the lower one, where, however, he has no vote. This is a useless privilege which ought to be abolished.

♦ CORPORATIONS ♦

In the free towns the deputies are chosen by the burghers, who form close corporations. Now, as was formerly the case in England, some free towns which have greatly declined in population continue to elect deputies, while other towns which have much augmented their population are altogether without the elective franchise. Schedules A and B are much wanted in those parts of Hungary; the right of election requires to be more extensively diffused, and thus the work of reform would be conducted without any great difficulty to a successful conclusion, inasmuch as a strong spirit of freedom exists throughout the country, which is sustained by the custom long established, of holding public meetings, and also assembling at public dinners, at which speeches are made in every respect after our English fashion. Indeed, as I have before observed, political topics are as openly discussed in Hungary as they are with us; and though it can scarcely be said that a press exists as yet in that country, nevertheless it possesses a certain current of public opinion, against which the emperor has no means of contending, however disagreeable it may be.

♦ FINANCES ♦

It is understood that the finances of Hungary are in a most disordered condition; so much so, that before long a crisis must arrive, dangerous to the union of the two crowns, unless measures for averting that peril be adopted in time. It will be impossible to mature any such measures, still less to carry them into execution without the concurrence of the diet, which will then assuredly take advantage of its power to incorporate a complete political reform with that of the exchequer.

♦ EDUCATION--JUSTICE ♦

The imposition of a toll upon all persons, without exception, who will pass over the new bridge about to be constructed between Pesth and Buda, is but the commencement of the abolition of those unjust privileges which exempt the nobility in general from contributing to the taxes. The clergy have at present a monopoly of all the means of education. It is intended to put an end to that system, to establish public schools upon the Lancasterian plan, in every parish of Hungary, which shall be supplied with masters educated especially for their duties at Pesth. The administration of justice requires also a complete revision, and the wealth of the church is supposed very considerably to exceed the real wants of a Christian establishment. The magnates are disposed to assume a decided part in favour of all these reforms, but it cannot be doubted that they will take care not to make the people too strong by widening beyond what they deem to be strictly inevitable, the democratic basis of the constitution.

♦ SERVIAN GLADOVA ♦

We arrived about noon at Gladova, where we found the Argo steamer waiting for us. But as the carriages and general articles of merchandise which had been forwarded from Moldava to Orsova had not yet made their appearance at the Wallachian station, I was obliged once more to draw somewhat liberally on my stock of patience. Here were five days already spent in making a journey, for which two ought to have been amply sufficient. An excellent dinner, however, which had been previously ordered by the Count, and a bottle of Champagne from a case provided by him for our voyage, consoled us for our disappointment.

The mornings began to be rather sharp. Nevertheless we breakfasted on deck (Oct. 4) on dry toast and coffee; after which, taking with us a quarantine inspector, we crossed the river in a small boat to Servian Gladova, which is a fortified town of some pretensions. We walked through the environs; our inspector not permitting us to enter the interior of the town, unless we were disposed on our return to take up our abode in the lazaretto. The country around seemed remarkably fertile, but it was almost wholly uncultivated. Such of the inhabitants as we saw were pictures of indolence--they were mostly dressed in the Turkish costume, though many were apparelled in the European fashion. We saw only one woman, in the course of our peregrinations, and she was closely veiled.

♦ TRAJAN’S BRIDGE ♦

On our return to the steamer, some discussion arose as to the exact site of Trajan’s bridge across the Danube, which, though recorded in history, had hitherto puzzled all the commentators; as, in fact, no trace of that once magnificent edifice had been discovered for many ages. The Count suggested that, as the river was now so low, there was a chance of our settling the question by a personal examination. Accordingly, we proceeded on foot along the Wallachian shore, until we arrived at the ruins of an ancient tower, built on an eminence, which had been evidently raised by artificial means. The tower was of Roman construction, and, as we conjectured that it might have been intended as a guard-station for the defence of the bridge, we ascended the eminence with no slight feelings of curiosity.

♦ TRAJAN’S BRIDGE ♦

Looking down the river, which is here of no very great width, and divided by a sandbank, which, however, cannot be perceptible in the ordinary state of the Danube, we distinctly observed the water curling over a series of impediments extending in a right line from bank to bank. At both extremities of this line we perceived on the land the remains of square pillars; and, on approaching the ruin on our side, we found it constructed of blocks of stone, faced towards the river with Roman tiles, evidently forming the buttress of the first arch of the bridge. In the river itself we counted the remains of six or seven pillars, which had manifestly served to sustain as many arches, connecting the bank on which we stood with the opposite one. No doubt therefore could remain that here was the site of Trajan’s celebrated bridge, a marvellous work for the times in which he lived, considering that it had been constructed on one of the most remote confines of the Roman empire. I calculated that these interesting ruins were about three English miles from Gladova. I brought away a fragment of a tile, as a rude memorial of our discovery.

♦ STATIONS ON THE DANUBE ♦

The Count, who was seldom idle, sat down, upon our return to our cabin, and wrote for me, in English, a memorandum of the distances of the navigable stations on the Danube, which I here copy.

As the voyage by steam, however, can only be made from Presburg to Constantinople, the distance is reduced to about fourteen hundred and forty English miles; which, when the steam-boat establishment and works on the Danube are completed, might be easily traversed in eight days and nights. At present, the journey overland from Vienna to Constantinople cannot be made in the ordinary mode of travelling within less than three weeks. The new route by the Danube will exhibit, therefore, one of the most important triumphs over time which the steam-engine has yet accomplished.

♦ WONDERS OF STEAM ♦

The advantages destined to arise out of this great enterprise to Hungary, to Servia, Wallachia, and Bulgaria, and, indeed, to all Turkey, are incalculable. Those countries, which have hitherto seemed scarcely to belong to Europe, will be rapidly brought within the pale of civilization; their natural riches, which are inexhaustible, will be multiplied; their productions will be vastly improved; their institutions and laws will be assimilated to those of the most advanced nations; and new combinations, not only of physical but also of moral strength, will be created, which may give birth to important changes in the distribution of political power on the continent. Indeed, while I am writing this page from my notes, I learn from an authentic source that the people have demanded and obtained a representative constitution from Prince Milosch in Servia, and that the first assembly of the states has been already held at Karagozovatz, where, on the 28th of February last, he delivered a speech, of which I have procured from the same quarter an accurate translation. As this speech exhibits an interesting and characteristic picture of the patriarchal condition of that principality, and as no copy of it has yet been published, I need not apologize for placing it before my readers.

♦ SPEECH OF PRINCE MILOSCH ♦

“_Speech pronounced by Prince Milosch, before the General Assembly held on the 16th (28th n. s.) of February, 1835, at Karagozovatz in Servia._”

“A year has gone by since we met in greater numbers, and on a more important occasion. It was our intention when we separated to assemble in greater numbers on St. George’s Day, but owing to want of forage we were under the necessity of holding only a small reunion some time after that epoch. During the summer, as well as the autumn, it became impossible to convoke a national assembly; first, because in consequence of the extraordinary drought, neither water nor hay could be procured; and secondly, because we had not been able to terminate the various reports to be laid before the general assembly. Even up to the present moment it has not been possible to complete the census of our population, and ascertain the amount of the income drawn from tithes and other sources of revenue. It has not been in my power either, within so short a space of time, to establish many of the institutions of which I yet perceive the urgent necessity. It is but a year since Servia has become a state. In laying down the foundation of a new one, it is necessary to go slowly to work, to take care not to utter even a single syllable which to-morrow, perhaps, we shall have to retract; much to the detriment of the public interest, and greatly to our own dishonour. Centuries have gone by before the different states in the world could attain the position in which we at present see them. Yet every day their institutions require some alteration. Such must also be Servia’s fate; Servia cannot in one year become a state so perfectly administered as to be faultless. Many are the peculiarities which yet distinguish the Servian nation. These must be sacrificed to the civilization and enlightenment characterizing the nations of Europe, before we can aspire to be ranked among them. First of all, we do not possess yet amongst us the sufficient number of men capable of directing the administration of the country, as is the case in Europe. This has been the great drawback to the foundation of those institutions which it is my wish to establish in our country.”

“On so solemn an occasion as the present, surrounded by the dearest members of my family, our metropolitan and bishops, the members of the Servian legislative body, those of the provincial tribunals, the captains from the different districts, the elders of the principal commonalities, and the high clergy, I appear before you, beloved brethren, to recal to your memory the speech I delivered last year on St. Tryphon’s day, before the general assembly, and which I caused to be printed and distributed among the people. In that speech I acquainted you with the desire I had of forming a regular administration; secondly, of assessing taxation in a manner both equitable and simple, and at the same time convenient for the treasury; thirdly, of paying the debts of our former bishops, which were a great burden on the provinces lately incorporated with Servia. I have uninterruptedly during a year devoted my attention, both in the council and when consulting the legislature of our country, to ascertain the administrative system best adapted and most advantageous to our country, and have come to the firm determination, first, to promulgate a statute for Servia, accurately defining the rights and duties of the Prince of Servia,--the rights and duties of Servian magistrates,--as well as those of every Servian. This statute shall be read in your presence. You will then see that the general national nights are the rights which every Servian is to enjoy,--are such as humanity demands; that the person of every Servian is free;--that every Servian is master of his property. Obedience to this statute we must swear,--not only we who are now here assembled, but also every one of our brethren who happens to be absent. We must swear one to the other;--the prince to the magistrates and people, the magistrates to the prince and people, the people to the prince and magistrates,--that we consider this statute sacred and inviolable as we hold the gospel to be inviolable and sacred,--that we shall not depart an inch from it, or alter a single syllable of it, without previously obtaining the approval and consent of the whole nation.”

“Secondly, I have resolved to form a council of state, constituting the first and highest magistrature in the country after me, the prince. It will consist of six ministers, each of whom will preside over a department of the administration, and of various privy councillors. The ministers are to draw up reports on affairs, the councillors are to examine them,--then authorize acts to be laid before me for my approval. Ministers, as well as the councillors, are responsible to the prince and people for their acts, and especially for every abuse they may be guilty of in the exercise of their power.”

“Thirdly, I have caused our civil and criminal code, to the digestion of which four years have been consecrated, once more to be revised, improved, and rendered more intelligible. These will be laid before our judges, that they may, according to their contents, protect the innocent and punish the guilty. Henceforth, every Servian will meet with protection and justice, not as formerly, in the opinions of the judge, but under the ægis of the law. Through similar institutions, the internal administration, will, I trust, become strengthened and connected as by a chain. The people will be placed under the elders, the captains, and judges; the judges under the council of state; the council under the prince, and in contact with the prince; the prince himself under the law, and in constant relation with the council. A similar institution will, I hope, act as a curb on the arbitrary will of us all in general, and of each of us in particular. It is possible, that even in these institutions, imperfections may be detected; they will, in the course of time, come to light, and be remedied. Neither my judgment, nor the information I am possessed of, nor the time I have at my disposal, have sufficed to bring to perfection so important a task, that is, so as to enable me to say, ‘No one will be able to find fault with my work,’ or ‘It is the most perfect work upon earth.’”

“Having thus fulfilled the promise I made, to introduce order in the internal administration, I shall beg your attention to the other important question, mentioned in my speech of last year,--namely, how should contributions be levied on the people?”

“The Servian nation is placed under the necessity of meeting annually the following expenses: The tribute to the sultan; the salary of the prince and his family; the salaries of persons holding situations under government; the salary of bishops; expenditure for the maintenance of a military force at home for the police, and also for the troops on the frontiers; for post establishments; for the quarantine establishment; for the mission at Constantinople; for the agents at different places; and lastly, expenses for unforeseen circumstances.”

“Hitherto, revenues drawn from different sources, have enabled us to defray the above indispensable expenses; in future, the Servian nation must, as for the past, furnish us with the necessary supplies. I have, in concert with the legislative body, endeavoured to find out the means of satisfying the imperious claims of necessity in the lightest and most equitable manner for the people, and, at the same time, the most convenient for our government. We had, during the course of last year, several discussions on the subject; some entertaining one opinion, others a different one. I perceived, at last, that it was preferable to draw up an estimate of the expenditure of Servia, and to collect the amount directly, and in one sum, from the people. The collection of this tax shall be made at two different epochs of the year, one half being paid at the feast of St. George, 23d April, the other at that of St. Demetrius, 9th November, thus to afford the people time enough in the interval to collect the sum requisite before the appointed day.”

“To prevent the people from being hourly teased by small indirect contributions, I have established but one tax, one of three dollars every six months, from every one; let every one, I say, pay three dollars half-yearly, and thus be exempt from paying any thing; whether for poll-tax, church taxes, matrimony tax, mill and distillery tax, a corn tax, and also the tenth on Indian corn, wheat, barley, and oats; the tenth on bee-hives and wine; and lastly, let the people be exempted from all kinds of obligatory service to men in office, except in those cases where government requires labourers for works of public utility; but even in this case, government shall pay wages to every man who shall work a whole day. Roads and bridges alone shall be constructed at the expense of the different villages. Forests and pasture-grounds shall, in future, be a national property; the whole nation paying contributions for them, it is but fair that the whole nation should enjoy the privilege of making use of them. Now if the people will duly weigh the numerous advantages that will arise from this new mode of taxation, I trust every one will allow that no nation in Europe is more lightly taxed than the Servians.”

“It remains to be seen, whether the produce of this tax is sufficient for the annual expenses. Our administration must now ascertain whether it be so or not. It will be the duty of the minister of finances at the expiration of the year to lay the accounts before me, the council and the national assembly, exhibiting the income as well as the expenses of government.”

“In order, however, that the assessment of this tax may be made in such a manner, that the richest as well as the poorest Servian may remain satisfied, I lay before you the census of the population, in which the number of married, as well as unmarried individuals is marked: the property of every Servian is also noted down, and of course the elders of every village are aware of the amount of each man’s tithes. It is according to this list, and to each man’s income, that the assessment of this tax is to take place. To decide what portion of this tax each individual has to pay is neither my business nor government’s; this is to be determined by the elders of each municipality. They should examine this list, compare the amount of the tithes paid by each person, and in concert with the captains and judges of the district, make the assessment of this tax in such a manner as not to give to the poor motives for accusing them of partiality.”

“These words I address to you, Brethren and Gentlemen, and request you will let me hear, or communicate in writing, your undisguised and unanimous opinion on the subject, in order to enable me to ascertain whether you approve of the institutions I have alluded to,--whether you agree with me on the amount of taxation as well as on the mode of levying it. Let me hear your opinion, now that you are assembled, and after having sworn to-day the statutes, choose amongst you the most capable individuals, and invest them with full powers to act as your representatives here so as to enable me to act in concert with them and the Council of State. These persons will afterwards return to their homes and acquaint you with the result of our combined labours. Chosen by yourselves, these persons will be your deputies; and those whose representatives they are must provide for their entertainment;--they will assist at every meeting in order to examine the accounts, and communicate information to the people on the subject.”

“So considerable a reunion of men as the present one, cannot, owing to the expense it occasions, take place annually; but Deputies of the People, such as I propose to you, exist in other countries and are equally necessary in our own.”

Private letters further state that the death of the Emperor Francis has been followed by very serious agitations in Hungary and Transylvania; that the sultan is proceeding rapidly and boldly with his plans of reform at Constantinople; and I observe that a company has been established in London for the purpose of connecting Marseilles with Constantinople by a line of steam-packets. Thus preparations are in progress throughout all that region for great changes; and communications between Vienna by the Danube, the Black Sea, the Mediterranean, and London, may be said to be on the eve of completion, which will afford the merchant, the politician, or the summer traveller the opportunity of visiting most of the principal cities of Europe, within the brief period of a month or six weeks--a tour upon which hitherto no person could think of entering who had not at least a full year at his disposal. Such are some of the miracles of the age of steam!

♦ NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GLADOVA ♦

The country around Gladova presents a picturesque succession of hills, which sloping gradually towards the Danube, open their bosoms to the southern sun. At present they are scarcely cultivated, but it can hardly be doubted that in a few years they will be converted into vineyards, for which the soil is well adapted. The Count looked forward with singular pleasure to the improvements which his efforts were calculated to produce in all the countries washed by his native river.

♦ WALLACHIAN HUT ♦

We were invited in the evening to take tea with the military, or rather the quarantine, commandant of the place. As we quitted our boat the day had just closed. There was a golden hue along the verge of the horizon towards the east, and the new moon appeared in the transparent sky of Servia a delicate crescent of silver. I had never before beheld our satellite at so early a period of its monthly course. It seemed to have but that moment received on its mountain tops the first rays of the sun. I no longer wondered that it should have been adopted as a national ensign in that country: seen, as I then saw it, suspended like the bow of an angel in the heavens, it was an object almost for adoration.

Our host, a Wallachian officer in blue uniform, was a well-looking young man, full of good nature. His house, or rather his hut, was constructed of hurdle, plastered on both sides with mud, and on the inside whitewashed, the walls betraying all the irregularities of the wicker-work. The flat roof was in the same style. His bed, a mattress, which lay in one corner, raised a few feet from the ground, was the common sofa. His chamber boasted of two tables, on one of which his museum and toilet were established, consisting of heads and amber mouthpieces of Turkish pipes, a silver bell, a pair of scissors, a snuffbox, a musical box, a dressing-case, a huge silver watch, a penknife, a smelling-bottle, and a pot of pomatum; all enshrined beneath a brown gauze veil. On the wall a gay rug, exhibiting in the middle a Mameluke holding a hound in the leash, was suspended, and within this compartment were tastefully displayed his sword, gun, cartouche-box, powder-horn, ataghan, belt, and epaulets.

♦ MATRIMONIAL SPECULATION ♦

Our party was soon increased by one of our friend’s brother officers, an ill-looking guest with one eye, who was accompanied by a great, fat, ugly woman, without a tooth in her head, dressed out in all her finery of “tinsel and brocade.” Though not young it was apparent that she had won the heart of her attendant, who having found for her a chair, placed himself on a stool at her feet, holding her brawny hand in his, which he frequently kissed. I learned afterwards that she was very rich, and that hearing of the establishment of the steam-boat she removed from the interior of the country to Gladova, with a view to look out for a husband. She appeared to be on the highway to success.

♦ CHARMS OF PROCRASTINATION ♦

We had tea in tumbler glasses, mixed with milk and rum, which, as the evening was cold, we unanimously pronounced excellent. The musical box in the mean time was wound up, and afforded the _lovers_ a treat. The Count entered into the spirit of the scene with the most playful goodhumour, exhibiting that unaffected condescension, that happy power of placing himself upon an equality with those around him, without at the same time impairing the natural dignity of his manner, which have procured for him unrivalled influence amongst his own countrymen. We finished the night in our cabin with a rubber of whist, the count taking “dumby” against Mr. Tasner and myself.

Morning came again (October 5), but still no sign of the carriages or merchandise, for which we were waiting. We were all really provoked by this protracted delay, which seemed unaccountable, as we had received intelligence of their arrival at Orsova. The Count, having procured a horse, said he would ride on as far as the “Iron Door,” hoping to meet the caravan on the way. He hoped in vain, and rode on to Orsova, where he found the oxen and men engaged for the purpose, all asleep! He set about putting the oxen to the cars himself, and remained until he saw the whole team on the road. The laziness of these Wallachians is indomitable. They would have remained at Orsova for a week, without thinking of moving, if the Count had not luckily paid them a visit.

♦ DEPARTURE FROM GLADOVA ♦

Our cargo having been once more arranged on board, we most willingly took our departure from Gladova at noon the next day. The Danube being extremely low, we were obliged to proceed at a cautious pace until after we passed Trajan’s bridge, where the water became deeper. The Count pointed out to me the tops of the higher range of the Balkan mountains, which appeared at a great distance, like a blue vapour in the sky. The country on each side of the river seemed wholly uncultivated; it was composed of gently-swelling hills, which, when subjected to the plough, will, doubtless, abundantly repay the toil of the husbandman. The grass was parched by the long-continued drought, which had scarcely been interrupted by more than partial showers during the preceding seven or eight months. In spring those hills clothed in fresh verdure must look beautiful. Naked and desolate even as they then appeared, every bend of the Danube, and the bends were innumerable, opened a new and ever-varying prospect.

♦ BENDS IN THE DANUBE ♦

The Wallachian bank, exposed to all the fervour of the noonday sun, appeared peculiarly destined for the vintage. But the whole of that country had been so long distracted by anarchy, that the people, who had fled to Hungary are only now beginning to return. Their cottages are still constructed in the most simple and temporary style, because they do not feel assured of the continuance of that domestic peace, which happily they now enjoy. When the population increase--when their habitations are improved--when their industry is encouraged by the influence of order and the laws, and they feel themselves protected from the spoliation of marauding armies--they will be enabled, with the assistance of a few years, to convert the whole of that region into a Paradise. The Servian territory also, on our right, seemed capable of great things. The soil looked rich and crumbling; nor was beauty of scenery wanting to its other attractions.

Some hours after leaving Orsova, such is the extraordinary manner in which the Danube winds in its course, that it actually retrogrades towards Moldava, and I came again in sight of the mountains through which I had passed in the fishing-boat. These mountains stretch across the north-east angle of Servia, where they form a cluster like the Apennines, and partly divide that principality from Bulgaria. We stopped for the night at Vervo.

♦ APPROACH TO VIDIN ♦

Having resumed our voyage at the dawn (October 7), we arrived early at Kalefat, where we took on board three Wallachian officers of the quarantine, as the Count intended to pay a visit to the Pacha of Vidin. The redoubts still remain here which were thrown up by the Turks during the late war with Russia, and in the neighbourhood of which a severe engagement took place. The Russians are supposed to have lost eight thousand men on that occasion, although in their report of the battle they took no note of the slain. The important city of Vidin, in Bulgaria, exhibited at this point a very imposing aspect. I counted twenty minarets shooting up their whitened spires above the domes of the mosques, and amidst the tall cypresses, which are found in almost every Turkish town. Several troops of infantry were encamped on a plain in the neighbourhood; the activity which prevailed about their tents, and the marching and countermarching of divisions in order of battle, informed us that they were under review at that moment by the Pacha. The regiments seemed well accoutred, and thoroughly conversant with the evolutions which they had to perform.

♦ MAGNATE’S COSTUME ♦

As we approached Vidin, the scene became extremely animated and picturesque. Numerous boats were gliding up and down the river, between the town and the camp, or stationed near the bank, where crowds of the inhabitants, including a large proportion of females, were collected in order to see the steam-boat. Two or three groups of ladies, who appeared to be persons of distinction, as I concluded, from the respect which was paid to them, as well as from their snow-white lawn veils and their long green and scarlet cloth pelisses, were seated apart from the multitude. They had no male attendant with them, and they occasionally rose and walked about, as if to show that they were under no sort of restraint.

The Count having obtained permission from the Turkish authorities to go ashore, exchanged his ordinary dress for the court costume of a Hungarian magnate, which is peculiarly splendid and becoming. It resembles the uniform of an officer of the hussars, with the exception that the jacket, as well as the short mantle, are of purple velvet. The Count’s sword and sword-belt, with its large gold clasp, were magnificent. He wore, moreover, the gold key as chamberlain to the emperor, and three or four Austrian collars and orders. He had the goodness to invite Mr. Tasner and myself to accompany him on his visit; the former had already a character as his secretary, and as it was necessary for me to comply so far with Turkish customs as to appear also a member of the Count’s travelling suite, I became for the hour his _physician_!

♦ VISIT TO HUSSEIN PACHA ♦

The pacha to whom we were about to pay our respects was the celebrated Hussein, who had so bravely defended Shumla against the Russian army in the last war. He is known to be the best soldier, and one of the most able men in the Ottoman empire; but having failed in the expedition to Syria, where he was twice beaten by Ibrahim, he was recalled in disgrace. His enemies at the Porte strenuously exerted themselves to have him introduced to the acquaintance of the eunuch who has possession of the bowstring; but the sultan respected the talents of Hussein, and never doubted his fidelity. Had he remained at Constantinople, he would have probably regained his former ascendancy in the state: he was therefore _exiled_ with the extraordinary rank, however, of Field-marshal to the Pachalic of Vidin, where he endeavours to forget his reverse of fortune in his exertions to form a few regiments who are intended to be models of discipline to the whole army. Hussein is a sincere patriot--a thorough hater of Russia; and there is no doubt that, if a revolution were to occur at the capital, threatening a change of dynasty, he would be found a formidable champion of the Mahometan cause.

♦ THE PACHA’S DEPUTY ♦

Upon landing with our quarantine attendants, we were conducted through an immense crowd of the people on shore, who received us with every possible degree of civility, to the pacha’s palace, which is just at the entrance to the town. Ascending an open staircase we were shown, in the first instance, to a large balcony which commanded a fine view of the river. Here we found the pacha’s chief officer sitting in state in the usual Turkish fashion, on a wooden sofa, which was covered with a carpet. He had two or three pillows to support his back, was smoking a long pipe with an ordinary amber mouthpiece, and was surrounded by eight or ten domestics, some of whom were most wretchedly attired in the Greek or European dress, barefooted, and wearing on their heads the red Greek cap, which, in fact, is like a red cloth nightcap with a blue silk tassel at the top, and to my mind peculiarly unbecoming.

♦ AN INTERPRETER ♦

The Count had forgotten to provide an interpreter. The embarrassment, therefore, may be easily conceived, which was felt by both parties, when the vice-governor could not ask us what we wanted; and if he did ask any such question, we could make no reply. We examined each other, so far as looks could serve, with unfeigned curiosity, and resolved that we were mutually in a very ludicrous situation; from which, however, we were, after half an hour’s delay, fortunately released by the entrance of Hussein’s physician.

This man was a Florentine by birth; but he had been sent to Turkey at a very early age to seek his fortune, and had now almost wholly forgotten his native language. He affected to speak French, and was looked up to by the vice-regal court of Vidin as a linguist of the first order. He was dressed in the Greek cap, blue round jacket and trousers, gray worsted stockings, and yellow slippers. There was a sinister expression in his eye, and a consciousness of guilt upon his flushed forehead, as well as in his nervous utterance, which warned us at once that we were in the presence of an adventurer, who for an adequate consideration would never refuse the secret exercise of his skill against the enemy of his employer. We felt as if we could read in his countenance a volume of crime, and we afterwards learned from our quarantime companions that our suspicions were by no means unfounded.

♦ EXPLANATIONS ♦

The Count explained in French, that he had come to pay his respects to the pacha, upon which we were informed that the pacha was not at home; that he had gone out with his favourite son to review the troops encamped near the town, but that he was expected back every moment, as his carriage had been sent for him, and a messenger would be despatched to hasten his arrival. The physician stood at the end of the sofa, covered, as in fact we also were, in compliance with the manners of Turkey; whenever he had occasion to speak to the vice-governor he put his hand to his forehead, then to his lips and breast, the established mode of giving the salaam, which by the way constantly reminded me of a Roman Catholic making the sign of the cross. Our carpet stools meanwhile were brought from the steam-boat, in order that we should strictly observe the quarantine laws, by not touching any thing capable of communicating the plague. We then sat down, looking at each other, as before, for nearly an hour, the silence being now and then interrupted by a question addressed to the physician by the vice-governor, then interpreted to the Count, who gave his answer, which was again interpreted to the vice-governor, who nodded his head, looked surprised, and again puffed a more than ordinary cloud of smoke from his distended cheeks.

♦ PLEASURES OF DISGUISE ♦

I own I did not feel quite at ease in my medical character. I was apprehensive that the physician would have interrogated me on professional matters, and would have discovered my entire ignorance of the subject, for in truth I had never opened a medical book in my life. Luckily he avoided every topic of the kind as much as I did, and most probably for the very same reason. Pipes and coffee were brought, which varied the scene for a moment, the attendants taking scrupulous care while they handed us the little china cups on a tray, and the long pipes, to keep themselves from touching any part of our dress with their own habiliments.

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A steam voyage down the Danube, vol. 1 of 2Chapter VIII

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