Chapter LIII: Page

Departure for Timbúktu. — The Hilly North-Western
Provinces of Bórnu 1

My Situation at the Death of Mr. Overweg. — Pecuniary Circumstances. — Inroad of the Tawárek. — Take Leave of the Sheikh. — Projects. — My Servants. — The two freed Africans. — The Méjebri. — Encampment in Kalíluwá. — Great Cold. — Súwa Búwa. — District of Koyám. — The old Inhabitant of Birni. — Fertile Districts. — The farming Village. — The Drain of the Komádugu. — Fractions of Tribes. — Character of the Komádugu. — Fúlbe Cattle-Breeders. — Site of Ghasréggomo. — The Ruins. — The Komádugu at Zéngiri. — Considerable Current. — Province of Manga. — Manga Warriors. — Manga Females. — Borzári. — The Bedde and their Komádugu. — Meeting with Mohammed ben Áhmed. — Daring Theft. — Wall of Gesma. — Immense Anthills. — Donárí. — Reach again Zurríkulo.

CHAP. LIV.

The Mountainous Territory of Múniyó and its Governor 42

Busy Scene at Ngárruwa. — Well of Berbéruwá. — Notice of Auyók. — Chelúgiwá. — Natron Lake of Búne. — New and Old Búne. — Conflagration. — Peculiar Character of Múniyó. — Palmgrove of Túnguré. — View of Gúre. — Estate of Múniyóma. — Audience with Múniyóma. — His Character. — Slave Hunting. — Site of Gúre. — Peculiar Site of Wúshek. — Sacred Site of Gábatá. — District of Keléno. — The Natron Lake or Ábye. — Lakes of Badamúni. — Plan of the Oasis of Badamúni. — Varied Vegetation. — Fresh Lake and Natron Lake. — Survey of the Lake. — Governor of Badamúni. — Mírriya, a favoured Locality. — Character of Zinder. — Ground Plan of Zinder. — Importance of the Town. — Pecuniary Supplies.

CHAP. LV.

Departure from Zinder. — The Border Region between the Bórnu
and the Fulfúlde Empires. — Second Stay in Kátsena 84

Line of Route. — Highway Robbers less to be feared than rapacious Governors. — An old Acquaintance. — Unusual Mode of drawing Water. — Conspicuous Valley, with dense Grove of Dúmpalms. — Gazáwa again. — The Ex-governor and rebel Chief Sadíku. — Night’s March. — Arrival before Kátsena. — Interview with the Governor. — The Ghaladíma of Sókoto. — New Stores laid in in Kátsena. — Approach of the rainy Season. — The Fáki ʿAbd e’ Rahmán. — His Arguments in favour of Polygamy. — Unforeseen Difficulty. — Conduct of the Governor of Kátsena.

CHAP. LVI.

Journey from Kátsena to Sókoto 105

Setting out from Kátsena. — The Dorówa Tree. — Tobacco and Yams. — Great Detour — on account of hostile Army. — Kúlkadá. Kúrayé. — Expeditionary Corps. — Kúrrefi and its Fortifications. — An agreeable Incident. — Unsafe District. — Town of Zékka. — Desertion of Servant. — Dangerous Night’s March. — Búnka. — Zyrmi. — State of Zánfara. — Trade with Dodówa Cakes. — Dúchi. — Market of Badaráwa. — The Zanfaráwa and Goberáwa. — Tribute of Kátsena. — First Rúdu. — Sansanne ʿAísa. — Night’s March through the Wilderness of Gúndumi. — Arrival in Gáwasú. — First Meeting with ʿAlíyu. — Kind Reception. — Presents, how received. — Letter of Franchise. — Arrival at Wurno.

CHAP. LVII.

Residence in Wurno 143

Superior Position of the Fúlbe. — Their Origin and Intermixture with other Tribes. — Different Nationalities absorbed by them. — Their Divisions. — Progress of the Tribe from the West. — Fúlbe in Sixteenth Century. — Rise of Sheikh ʿOthmán the Reformer. — Sultan Bello. — Present State of the Empire. — My Quarters in Wurno. — General Character of Wurno. — Particular Description. — Ground Plan of Wurno. — Unsafe State of the Province. — Dread of the Góberáwa. — Gloomy Prospects for my Journey. — Occupation. — Aspect of the Country. — Captain Clapperton’s Route. — Fine Valley of Bamúrna. — Excursion to Sókoto. — Appearance of the Town. — The Syllebáwa and their Chief Hámedu. — Clapperton’s Death. — The Valley of Sókoto. — Ground Plan of Sókoto. — Return of the Sultan. — Musical Presents. — My Friend ʿAbd el Káder of Ágades. — Literary works of ʿAbd Alláhi and Bello. — Death of the Ruler of Másina.

CHAP. LVIII.

State of Insecurity along the most frequented Highroad. —
Gando 189

Departure from Wurno. — Leave Sókoto. — Heavy rain. — Fields of Yams. — Bodínga. — Dendi. — Shagáli. — Señína. — Character of Gando; Ground Plan. — The Sultan Khalílu. — Difficult Transactions. — Áhmed Bábá’s History of Songhay. — Climate of Gando. — Extent of Empire.

CHAP. LIX.

The Province of Kebbi and its River. — The Valley of Fógha. —
Reach the Niger 204

Leave Gando. — Extensive Rice-Grounds. — Kámbasa. — Swampy Valley with Rice-Grounds. — Gaúmaché. — Unsafe State of the Country. — Gúlumbé, rich Vegetation. — Solitary Pilgrim. — Kardi. — Hausáwa. — Bírni-n-Kebbi. — Situation at the Brink of the wide swampy Valley. — ʿOthmán Záki. — Kóla, and its Governor. — Júggurú. — Zogírma and its Governor. — Dangerous Road. — New Companions. — Tilli. — A Day in the Wilderness. — Site of Bírni-n-Débe. — Dallul Máuri. — Shallow Vales. — The Valley of Fógha. — The Salt of Fógha. — Character of Fógha People. — Importance of Fógha in Ethnological Respect. — Plenty of Kóla Nuts, but no Corn. — Unexpected Generosity. — Dense Forest. — A Solitary Limtúni. — Bóso. — Garbo. — Lanadéji. — Peculiar Cornstacks. — Songhay Farming Hamlets. — Avoid Támkala. — Short Marches. — Tóndifú. — Reach the Niger. — Aspect of the River. — Large Canoes. — Town and Market of Say. — State of Market. — Traffic. — Governor of Say. — No Songhay Interpreter.

CHAP. LX.

The hilly Country of Gurma 250

Leave Say. — Low Situation. — Sandwind and heavy Thunderstorm. — Town of Champagóre. — Architecture. — Mohammed Galaijo. — His Residence. — His former State. — His new Settlement. — His Court. — The Gurma and the Songhay. — Songhay Towns. — Torrent Górebi. — Champaláwel, and its Governor. — Gúro Caravan. — Smelting Furnaces. — Bangapelle. — Elephant Traces. — Bosebángo. — River Sírba. — Frail Raft. — Smoking Disposition. — Mode of carrying Water. — Country beyond the River. — Bundóre. — Denga. — Fine Timber for Boat building. — Sebba, Capital of Yágha. — Description of Huts. — Reception by Governor. — Provisions. — Holiday. — The Kádhi.

CHAP. LXI.

Province of Libtáko. — South-eastern Limit of the Range of the
Commerce of Timbúktu 281

Plenty of Water-Courses. — Character of Country. — Namantúgu. — The Arab from the West. — Wandering Fúlbe. — Tumpénga, and Reformatory Struggle. — Unhospitable Reception. — Dóre, capital of Libtáko. — Importance of Market of Dóre. — Difficulty of supplying my Wants. — Mósi traders. — Drought. — Anarchy. — Various Names of Dóre. — Interesting Relations of Water Communication. — Political Situation. — Delay. — News from Timbúktu. — Unlucky Fate of a Letter.

CHAP. LXII.

Unsettled Provinces obstructed by Nature, and infested by Man. —
Áribínda. — Hómbori 298

Uncertain Distance from Timbúktu. — Departure from Dóre. — The Ponds or “Wéndu.” — Providentially detained in Wúlu. — Numerous Sheets of Water. — Difficult Watercourse. — Serious Encounter. — Crossing a Swamp. — Áribínda. — Fíliyo, a Songhay Village. — Independent Character of Inhabitants. — Tinge. — Ground Plan of Dwelling. — Character of Inhabitants. — Habits of Industry. — Heavy Rains. — Caillié’s Kissour. — Fúlbe Cattle Breeders. — Hómbori. — The Black Worm. — Kúbo. — District Tondi. — Craftiness of El Waláti. — March of Red Worms. — Isolated Mounts. — Native Dwellings. — Dúna. — Governor of Dalla. — Mundóro. — Curious Thatchwork. — Hómbori Range. — Variety of Huts of Ísayé. — Approach Hómbori Mountains. — Castellated Mounts. — Bóne.

CHAP. LXIII.

Imóshagh or Tawárek Encampments South of the Niger. — Lakes and
Backwaters of the Great River 338

Visit Encampment. — Tawárek Tents and Comforts. — A Cascade. — Apparel. — Conduct of El Waláti. — District of Imeggélelé. — Native Horse Dealers. — Bélé, Chief of the Haw-n-Ádak. — Tawárek Women and Boys. — Presents. — Camels knocked up. — District of Mínta. — Bámbara or Hudári. — Its Importance. — Personal Relations. — The Méhedí expected. — The Chief Somki.

CHAP. LXIV.

The Network of Creeks, Backwaters, and Lakes belonging to
the Niger. — Sarayámo. — Navigation to Kábara 361

Creek of Bámbara. — Character of Bámbara. — Great Heat. — Indiscreet Inquiries. — Lake Nyéngay. — Character of Country. — Somki’s Camp. — Mohammed Bonyámi. — Town of Sarayámo. — Various Performances. — Embark on the Creek. — Character of Creek. — Good Fish. — Very winding Course. — Wide open Branch. — Animated Scenery. — Town of Banáy. — Island of Kóra. — Sanyáre. — Enter the principal Branch of Niger. — Majestic Scenery.

CHAP. LXV.

Arrival at Kábara. — Entrance into Timbúktu 391

Tásakal. — Koróme. — Large Number of Boats. — Branch of Koróme. — Arrival at Kábara. — Description of Kábara. — The Inspector of the Harbour. — Unwelcome Visitors. — Interview with Sídi Álawáte. — Approach to Timbúktu. — Momentous Meeting. — Entrance into Timbúktu.

CHAP. LXVI.

General Observations on the History of Songhay and Timbúktu 406

Áhmed Bábá, the Historian. — His Authority. — Origin of Timbúktu. — Form of Name. — Sonni ʿAlí. — Háj Mohammed Áskíá. — Condition of Songhay Empire. — List of Provinces. — Power of the Governors. — Despotic Rule. — Heir Apparent. — Political Condition of Songhay. — Intercourse with Egypt. — Commerce. — Army. — The Rumá. — Political Situation of Timbúktu. — Latest Events.

CHAP. LXVII.

First Month of Residence in Timbúktu 437

Awkward Position. — Presents to Sídi Álawáte. — View of the Town. — Caillié’s Sketch. — Purchase of Calico. — The Name for Cotton mentioned by El Bekrí. — First Trial. — Firmer Position. — Different Meaning of Words in different States of Society. — Letter to El Bakáy. — My own Quarters. — False Prospects of Home Journey. — First Interview with the Sheikh. — Major Laing. — Presents. — Illness. — Orders from Hamda-Alláhi. — Intrigues successfully overcome. — Night’s Watch.

CHAP. LXVIII.

First Residence in the Desert. — Political Combinations. —
Great Mosque. — Ground Plan of the Town 463

Leave the Town. — The Camp. — Political Schemes. — Attempt at Proselytism. — Return to Town. — Movements of the Fúlbe. — Annoying Circumstances. — Excursion to Kábara. — Note on the Royal Residence in Hamda-Alláhi. — A few Palm-trees. — The Great Mosque. — Ground Plan of the Town. — Circumference. — Wall. — The Different Quarters of the Town. — Inhabitants. — Another Stay in the Camp. — Sand-eating. — Private Life in Camp. — Tediousness of Position.

CHAP. LXIX.

Political State of the Country. — Dangerous Crisis 489

Interruption of Caravan Trade. — The Tájakánt. — Position of the Fúlbe in Relation to the Berber Tribes. — Dangerous Situation. — Officer sent from Hamda-Alláhi to catch me. — Host repulsed. — Letter from Hamda-Alláhi. — Interview with the Chief of the Tademékket. — Knowledge is Power. — Presents. — Large Troop of Bérabísh Horsemen. — Letter and News from Europe. — Hostile Gathering. — Leave Town again. — An Embassy. — Return to Town. — Áwáb’s Account of Mungo Park. — Letter of Franchise. — Momentous Death of the Chief of the Bérabísh ʿAlí Weled ʿAbéda. — Out to the Camp. Chanting in the Desert. — Christian and Mohammedan Principles. — The Inundation. — Stream of running Water in the Desert. — State of Trade. — Small Tájakánt Caravan. — Close of the Year.

* * * * *

APPENDIX I.

Present Condition of the Province of Zánfara 521

APPENDIX II.

A few historical Facts relating to Góber and Zánfara. — Fúlbe
Tribes 526

APPENDIX III.

Song of Sheikh ʿOthmán 531

APPENDIX IV.

Partition of Kebbi. Kebbi according to its Partition between the
Empire of Sókoto and that of Gando 533

APPENDIX V.

PART I.

Towns and Villages of Déndina 538

PART II.

A few Remarks on the Province of Yáuri and on those of Máuri
and Zabérma 545

APPENDIX VI.

Information with regard to the Provinces of Gurma, Mósi, and
Tombo 550

APPENDIX VII.

Pedigree of the Sheikh Sídi Áhmed el Bakáy 566

APPENDIX VIII.

Two Poems of the Sheikh El Bakáy, wherein he satirizes the
Fúlbe of Másina 568

Translation of the two Poems of Áhmed el Bakáy 574

APPENDIX IX.

Chronological Table of the History of Songhay and the
neighbouring Kingdoms 579