Chapter VII: First Glimpse of the Herzegóvina

Talismans and Phylacteries—Connection between the Geology
of Illyria and her Cabalistic Science—Roman Gems, and
Altar of Jove the Thunderer—Amulets against the Evil
Eye—On our Way again—The Gorge of the Želesnica—Pursued
by Armed Horsemen—Sleep under a Haystack—Chryselephantine
Rock-sculpture—Wasting her Sweetness on the Desert Air!—Mt.
Trescovica—The Forest Scenery of Mt. Igman—Transformations
of the Herb Gentian—Reminiscences of the Karst—No Water!—A
Race against Night—Strange Bedfellows—A Bosnian-Herzegovinian
House—We encounter Bashi-Bazouks—Cross the Watershed
between the Black Sea and Adriatic—First Glimpse of the
Herzegovina—Signs of a Southern Sky—Coinica, the Runnymede
of the Old Bosnian Kingdom—Great Charter of King Stephen
Thomas—Our Host: the Untutored Savage—Absence of Nature’s
Gentlemen—Democratic Genius of Bosniacs and Southern
Sclaves—The Narenta and its treacherous Waters—Iron
Bridge—Entertained by Belgian Engineer—Murder of Young
Christian by two armed Turks—Trepidation of our Host
and Preparations for Flight—Touching Instance of Filial
Affection!—A Village of Unveiled Mahometans—_Rhododactyls_:
Darwinianism refuted at last!—The Tragic Lay of the Golden
Knife—Magnificent Scenery of the Narenta Valley; Amethystine
Cliffs and Emerald Pools—A Land of Wild Figs and Pomegranates 285