Chapter CXXIII: Act 1895: , may be given to a married woman on applying to (12)

Starting from the Col d'Altare or di Cadibona (west of Savona), the main chain extends first south-west, then north-west to the Col de Tenda, though nowhere rising much beyond the zone of coniferous trees. Beyond the Col de Tenda the direction is first roughly west, then north-west to the Rocher des Trois Eveques (9390 ft.), just south of the Mont Enchastraye (9695 ft.), several peaks of about 10,000 ft. rising on the watershed, though the highest of all, the Punta dell' Argentera(10,794 ft.) stands a little way to its north. From the Rocher des Trois Eveques the watershed runs due north for a long distance, though of the two loftiest peaks of this region One, the Aiguille de Chambeyron (11,155 ft.), is just to the west, and the other, the Monte Viso (12,609 ft.), is just to the east of the watershed. From the head of the Val Pellice the main chain runs north-west, and diminishes much in average height till it reaches the Mont Thabor (10,440 ft.), which forms the apex of a salient angle which the main chain here presents towards.the west. Hence the main watershed extends eastwards, culminating in the Aiguille de Scolette (11,500 ft.), but makes a great curve to the north-west and back to the south-east before rising in the Rochemelon (11,605 ft.), which may be considered as a re-entering angle in the great rampart by which Italy is guarded from its neighbours. Thence the direction taken is north as far as the eastern summit (11,693 ft.) of the Levanna, the watershed rising in a series of snowy peaks, though the loftiest point of the region, the Pointe de Charbonel (12,336 ft.), stands a little to the west. Gnce more the chain bends to the north-west, rising in several lofty peaks (the highest is the Aiguille de la Grande Sassiere, 12,323 ft.), before attaining the considerable depression of the Little St Bernard Pass. Thence for a short way the direction is north to the Col de la Soigne, and then north-east along the crest of the Mont Blanc chain, which culminates in the peak of Mont Blanc (15,782 ft.), the loftiest in the Alps. A number of high peaks crown our watershed before it attains the Mont Dolent (12,543 ft.). Thence after a short dip to the south-east, our chain takes near the Great St Bernard Pass the generally eastern direction that it maintains till it reaches Monte Rosa,whence it bends northwards, making one small dip to the east as far as the Simplon Pass. It is in the portion of the watershed between the Great St Bernard and the Simplon that the main chain maintains a greater average height than in any other part. But, though it rises in a number of lofty peaks, such as the Mont Velan ( 12,353 ft. ), the Matterhorn (14,782 ft.), the Lyskamm (14,889 ft.), the Nord End of Monte Rosa (15,132 ft.), and the Weissmies (13,226ft.), yet manyof the highest points of the region, such as the Grand Combin (14,164 ft.), the Dent Blanche (14,318 ft.), the Weisshorn (14,804 ft.), the true summit or Dufourspitze (15,217 ft.) of Monte Rosa itself, and the Dom (14,942 ft.), all rise on its northern slope and not on the main watershed. On the other hand the chain between the Great St Bernard and the Simplon sinks at barely half a dozen points below a level of 10,000 ft. The Simplon Pass corresponds to what may be called a dislocation of the main chain. Thence to the St Gotthard the divide runs north-east, all the higher summits (including the Monte Leone, 11,684 ft., and the Pizzo Rotondo, 10,489 ft.) rising on it, a curious contrast to the long stretch just described. From the St Gotthard to the Maloja the watershed between the basins of the Rhine and Po runs in an easterly direction as a whole, though making two great dips towards the south, first to near the Vogelberg (10,565 ft.) and again to near the Pizzo Gailegione (10,201 ft.), so that it presents a broken and irregular appearance. But all the loftiest peaks rise on it: Scopi (10,499 ft.), Piz Medel (10,509 ft.), the Rheinwaldhorn (11,I49 ft.), the Tambohorn (10,749 ft.) and Piz Timun (10,502 ft.).

From the Maloja Pass the main watershed dips to the south-east for a short distance, and then runs eastwards and nearly over the highest summit of the Bernina group, the Piz Bernina (13,304 ft.), to the Bernina Pass. Thence to the Reschen Scheideck Pass the main chain is ill-defined, though on it rises the Corno di Campo (10,844 ft.), beyond which it runs slightly north-east past the sources of the Adda and the Fraele Pass, sinks to form the depression of the Ofen Pass, soon hends north and rises once more in the Piz Sesvenna (10,568 ft.).

The break in the continuity of the Alpine chain marked by the deep valley, the Vintschgau, of the upper Adige (Etsch) is one of the most remarkable features in the orography of the Alps. The little Reschen lake which forms the chief source of the Adige is only 13 ft. below the Reschen Scheideck Pass (4902 ft.), and by it is but 5 m. from the Inn valley. Eastward of this pass, the main chain runs north-east to the Brenner Pass along the snowy crest of the Oetzthal and Stubai Alps, the loftiest point on it being the Weisskugel (12,291 ft., Oetzthal), for the highest summits both of the Oetzthal and of the Stubai districts, the Wildspitze (12,382 ft.) and the Zuckerhutl (11,520 ft.) stand a little to the north.

The Brenner (4495 ft.) is almost the lowest of all the great Carriage-road passes across the main chain, and has always been the chief means of communication between Germany and Italy. For some way beyond it the watershed runs eastwards over the highest crest of the Zillerthal Alps, which attains 11,559 ft. in the Hochfeiler. But, a little farther, at the Dreiherrenspitze (11,500 ft.) we have to choose between following the watershed southwards, or keeping due east along the highest crest of the Greater Tauern Alps. (a) The latter course is adopted by many geographers and has much in its favour. The eastward direction is maintained and the watershed (though not the chief Alpine watershed) continues through the Greater Tauern Alps, culminating in the Gross Venediger (12,008 ft.), for the Gross Glockner (12,461 ft.) rises to the south. Our chain bends north-east near the Radstadter Tauern Pass, and preserves that direction through the Lesser Tauern Alps to the Semmering Pass. (b) On the other hand, if from the Dreiherrenspitze we cleave to the true main watershed of the Alpine chain, we find that it dips south, passes over the Hochgall (11,287 ft.), the culminating point of the Rieserferner group, and then sinks to the Toblach Pass, but at a point a little east of the great Dolomite peak of the Drei Zinnen it hends east again, and rises in the Monte Coghans (9128 ft., the monarch of the Carnic Alps). Soon after our watershed makes a last bend to the south-east and culminates in the Terglou (9400 ft.), the highest point of the Julio Alps, though the Grintovc (8429 ft., the culminating point of the Karawankas Alps) stands more to the east. Finally our watershed turns south and ends near the great limestone plateau of the Birnbaumerwald, between Laibach and Gorz.

As might be expected, the main chain boasts of more glaciers and eternal snow than the independent or external ranges. Yet it is a curious fact that the three longest glaciers in the Alps (the Great Aletsch, 16 1/2 m., and the Unteraar and the Fiescher, each 10 m.) are all in the Bernese Oberland. In the main chain the two longest are both 9 1/4 m., the Mer de Glace at Chamonix and the Gomer at Zermatt. In the Eastern Alps the longest glacier is the Pasterze (rather over 6 1/4 m.), which is not near the true main watershed, though it clings to the slope of the Greater Tauern range, east of the Dreiherrenspitze. But the next two longest glaciers in the Eastern Alps (the Hintereis, 6 1/2 m., and the Gepatsch, 6 m.) are both in the Oetzthal Alps, and so close to the true main watershed.

The so-called alpine lakes are the sheets of water found at the foot of the Alps, on either slope, just where the rivers that form them issue into the plains. There are, however, alpine lakes higher up (e.g. the lake of Thun, and those in the Upper Engadine, in the heart of the mountains, though these are naturally smaller in extent, while the true lakes of the High Alps are represented by the glacier lakes of the Marjelensee (near the Great Aletsch glacier) and those on the northern slope of the Col de Fenetre, between Aosta and the Val de Bagnes. The most singular, and probably the loftiest, lake in the Alps is the ever-frozen tarn that forms the summit of the Roccia Viva (11,976 ft.) in the Eastern Graians.

Among the great alpine rivers we may distinguish two classes: those which spring directly from glaciers and those which rise in lakes, these being fed by eternal snows or glaciers. In the former class are the Isere, the Rhone, the Aar, the Ticino, the Tosa, the Hinter (or main) Rhine and the Linth; while in the latter class we have the Durance, the Po, the Reuss, the Vorder and middle branches of the Rhine, the Inn, the Adda, the Ogho and the Adige. The Piave and the Drave seem to be outside either class.

5. Principal Passes.--Though the Alps form a barrier they have never formed an impassable barrier, since, from the earliest days onwards, they have been traversed first, perhaps, for purposes of war or commerce, and later by pilgrims, students and tourists. The spots at which they were crossed are called passes (this word is sometimes though rarely applied to gorges only), and are the points at which the great chain sinks to form depressions, up to which deep-cut valleys lead from the plains. Hence the oldest name for such passes is Mont (still retained in cases of the Mont Cenis and the Monte Moro), for it was many ages before this term was especially applied to the peaks of the Alps, which with a few very rare exceptions (e.g. the Monte Viso was known to the Romans as Vesulus) were long simply disregarded. The native inhabitants of the Alps were naturally the first to use the alpine passes. But to the outer world these passes first became known when the Romans traversed them in order to conquer the world beyond. In the one case we have no direct knowledge (though the Romans probably selected the passes pointed out to them by the natives as the easiest), while in the other we hear almost exclusively of the passes across the main chain or the principal passes of the Alps. For obvious reasons the Romans, having once found an easy direct pass across the main chain, did not trouble to seek for harder and more devious routes. Hence the passes that can be shown to have been certainly known to them are comparatively few in number: they are, in topographical order from west to east, the Col de l'Argentiere, the Mont Genevre, the two St Bernards, the Splugen, the Septimer, the Brenner, the Radstadter Tauern, the Solkscharte, the Plocken and the Pontebba (or Saifnitz). Of these the Mont Genevre and the Brenner were the most frequented, while it will be noticed that in the Central Alps only two passes (the Splugen and the Septimer) were certainly known to the Romans. In fact the central portion of the Alps was by far the least Romanised and least known till the early middle ages. Thus the Simplon is first certainly mentioned in 1235, the St Gotthard (without name) in 1236, the Lukmanier in 965, the San Bernardino in 941; of course they may have been known before, but authentic history is silent as regards them till the dates specified. Even the Mont Cenis (from the 15th to the 19th century the favourite pass for travellers going from France to Italy) is first heard of in 756 only. In the 13th century many hitherto unknown passes came into prominence, even some of the easy glacier passes. It should always be borne in mind that in the Western and Central Alps there is but one ridge to cross, to which access is gained by a deep-cut valley, though often it would be shorter to cross a second pass in order to gain the plains, e.g. the Mont Genevre, that is most directly reached by the Col du Lautaret; and the Simplon, which is best gained by one of the lower passes over the western portion of the Bernese Oberland chain. On the other hand, in the Eastern Alps, it is generally necessary to cross three distinct ridges between the northern and southern plains, the Central ridge being the highest and most difficult. Thus the passes which crossed a single ridge, and did not involve too great a detour through a long valley of approach, became the most important and the most popular, e.g. the Mont Cenis, ihe Great St Bernard, the St Gotthard, the Septimer and the Brenner. As time went on the travellers (with whatever object) who used the great alpine passes could not put up any longer with the bad old mule paths. A few passes (e.g. the Semmering, the Brenner, the Tenda and the Arlberg) can boast of carriage roads constructed before 1800, while those over the Umbrail and the Great St Bernard were not completed till the early years of the 20th century. Most of the carriage roads across the great alpine passes were thus constructed in the 19th century (particularly its first half), largely owing to the impetus given by Napoleon. As late as 1905, the highest pass over the main chain that had a carriage road was the Great St Bernard (8111 ft.), but three still higher passes over side ridges have roads---the Stelvio (9055 ft.), the Col du Galibier (8721 ft.), in the Dauphine Alps, and the Umbrail Pass (8242 ft.). Still more recently the main alpine chain has been subjected to the further indignity of having railway lines carried over it or through it---the Brenner and the Pontebba lines being cases of the former, and the Col de Tenda, the Mont Cenis (though the tunnel is really 17 m. to the west), the Simplon and the St Gotthard, not to speak of the side passes of the Arlberg, Albula and Pyhrn of the latter. There are also schemes (more or less advanced) for piercing the Splugen and the Hohe Tauern, both on the main ridge, and the Lotschen Pass, on one of the external ranges. The numerous mountain railways, chiefly in Switzerland, up various peaks (e.g. the Rigi and Pilatus) and over various side passes (e.g. the Brunig and the Little Scheidegg) do not concern us here.

6. Divisions.---The Alps, within the limits indicated under (2) above, form a great range, consisting of a main chain, with ramifications, and of several parallel minor chains. They thus form a single connected whole as contrasted with the plains at their base, and nature has made no breaks therein, save at the spots where they sink to comparatively low depressions or passes. But for the sake of practical convenience it has long been usual to select certain of the best marked of these passes to serve as limits within the range, whether to distinguish several great divisions from each other, or to further break up each of these great divisions into smaller groups. As these divisions, great or small, are so to speak artificial, several systems have been proposed according to which the Alps may be divided. We give below that which seems to us to be the most satisfactory (based very largely on personal acquaintance with most parts of the range), considering, as in the case of the limits of the chain, only its topographical aspect, as it exists at the present day, while leaving it to geologists, botanists and zoologists to elaborate special divisions as required by these various sciences. Our selected divisions relate only to the High Alps between the Col de Tenda and the route over the Radstadter Tauern. while in each of the 18 subdivisions the less elevated outlying peaks are regarded as appendages of the higher group within the topographical limits of which they rise. No attempt, of course, has been made to give a complete catalogue of the peaks and passes of the Alps, while in the case of the peaks the culminating point of a lower halfdetached group has been included rather than the loftier spurs of the higher and main group; in the case of the passes, the villages or valleys they connect have been indicated, and also the general character of the route over each pass.

As regards the main divisions, three are generally distinguished; the Western Alps (chiefly French and Italian, with a small bit of the Swiss Valais) being held to extend from the Col de Tenda to the Simplon Pass, the Central Alps (all but wholly Swiss and Italian) thence to the Reschen Scheideck Pass, and the Eastern Alps (wholly Austrian and Italian, save the small Bavarian bit at the northswest angle) thence to the Radstadter Tauern ro:ite, with a bend outwards towards the south-east, as explained under (2) in order to include the higher summits of the SouthEastern Alps. Strictly speaking, we should follow the Reschen Scheideck route down the Adigevalley, but as this would include in the Central Alps the Ortler and some other of the highest Tirolese summits, it is best (remembering the artificial character of the division) to draw a line from Mals southwards either over the Umbrail Pass (the old historical pass) or the Stelvio (wellknown only since the carriage road was built over it in the first quarter of the 19th century) to the head of the Valtellina, and then over the Aprica Pass (as the Bergamasque Alps properly belong to the Central Alps) to the Oglio valley or the Val Camonica, and down that valley to the Lake of Iseo and Brescid.

Assuming these three main divisions, we must now consider in detail the 18 sub-divisions which we distinguish; the first 5 forming the Western Alps, the next 7 the Central Alps, and the rest the Eastern Alps, the heights throughout being, of course, given in English feet and representing the latest measurements.

I. WESTERN ALPS

1. Maritime Alps (from the Col de Tenda to the Col de l'Argentiere). Punta dell' Argentera . . . . . 10,794 Mont Tinibras. . . . . . . . . . .9,948 Cima dei Golas. . . . . . . . . 10,286 Mont Enchastraye . . . . . . . . .9,695 Monte Matto . . . . . . . . . . 10,128 Monte Bego . . . . . . . . . . . .9,426 Mont Pelat. . . . . . . . . . . 10,017 Mont Monnier . . . . . . . . . . .9,246 Mont Clapier. . . . . . . . . . 9,994 Rocca dell' Abisso . . . . . . . .9,039

Chief passes of the Maritime Alps.

Passo del Pagarin (Vosubie Valley to Valdieri), snow . . . . . . . . . . .9,236 Col di Fremamorta (Tinee Valley to the Baths of Valdieri), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,688 Bassa di Druos (same to same), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,629 Passo di Collalunga (Tinee Valley to Vinadio), bridle path. . . . . . .8,531 Coll dell' Agnel (Tenda to Yaldieri), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,426 Col della Ciriegia (St Martin Vesubie to the Baths of Valdieri), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,370 Col des Granges Communes (St Etienne de Tinee to Barcelonnette), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,242 Col de Pourriac (Tinee Valley to Argentera), foot path. . . . . . . . .8,222 Col della Finestre (St Martin de Vesubie to Valdieri), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,107 Col di Guercia (Tinee Valley t0 Vinadio), foot path . . . . . . . . . .8,042 Col della Lombarda (same to same), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,858 Col de la Cayolle (Var Valley to Barcelonnette), carriage road. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,717 Col di Santa Anna (Tinee Valley to Vinadio), bridle path. . . . . . . .7,605 Col del Sabbione (Tenda to Valdieri), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . .7,428 Col d'Allos or de Valgelaye (Verdon Valley to Barcelonnette), carriage road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,382 Col de l'Argentiere (Barcelonnette to Cuneo), carriage road . . . . . .6,545 Col de Tenda (Tenda to Cuneo), carriage road, railway beneath. . . . . . .6,145

2. Cottian Alps (from the Col de l'Argentiere to the Mont Cenis and westwards to the Col du Galibier).

Chief Peaks of the Cottian Alps.

Monte Viso . . . . . . . . . . 12,609 Dents d'Ambin. . . . . . . . . . 11,096 Viso di Vallante . . . . . . . 12,048 Mont d'Ambin . . . . . . . . . . 11,080 Aiguille de Scolette . . . . . 11,500 Pointe de la Font Sancte . . . . 11,057 Aiguille de Chambeyron . . . . 11,155 Punta Ferrant. . . . . . . . . . 11,037 Grand Rubren . . . . . . . . . 11,142 Visolotto. . . . . . . . . . . . 11,001 Bree de Chambeyron . . . . . . 11,116 Rochebrune . . . . . . . . . . . 10,906 Rognosa d'Etache . . . . . . .11,106 Punta Sommeiller . . . . . . . . 10,896 Bric Froid . . . . . . . . . . 10,860 Tete des Toillies . . . . . . 10,430 Grand Glavza . . . . . . . . . 10,781 Monte Granero. . . . . . . . . . 10,401 Rognosa di Sestrieres . . . 10,758 Mont Chaberton . . . . . . . . . 10,286 Panestrel. . . . . . . . . . . 10,673 Tete de Moyse . . . . . . . . 10,204 Roche du Grand Galibier. . . . 10,637 Monte Meidassa . . . . . . . . . 10,187 Peou Roc. . . . . . . . . . 10,601 Pelvo d'Elva . . . . . . . . . . 10,053 Pic du Pelvat. . . . . . . . . 10,558 Mont Politri . . . . . . . . . . 10,009 Pointe Haute de Mary . . . . . 10,539 Mont Nlbergian . . . . . . . . . .9,974 Pic du Thabor. . . . . . . . . 10,316 Brio Bouchet . . . . . . . . . . .9,853 Mont Thabor. . . . . . . . . . 10,440 Punta Cournour . . . . . . . . . .9,410 Pointe des Cerces. . . . . . . 10,434

Chief Passes in the Cottian Alps.

Col Sommeiller (Bardonneche to Bramans), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,718 Col de la Traversette (Crissolo to Aliries), mainly bridle path beneath pass tunnel made in 1478-1480 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,679 Col d'Ambin (Exilles to Bramans), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,364 Col de St Veran (Val Varaita to the Queyras Valley), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,331 Col n'Etache (Bardonneche to Bramans), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . .9,144 Col dell' Agnello (Val Varaita to the Queyras Valley), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,003 Col Girardin (Ubaye Valley to the Queyras Valley), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,855 Col de Sautron (Val Maira to Barcelonnette), bridle path . . . . . . . . .8,823 Col de Longet (Ubaye Valley to Val Varaita), bridle path . . . . . . . . .8,767 Col de Mary or de M iurin ( Ubaye Valley to Val Maira), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,708 Col d'Abries or de Prali (Perosa to Abries), bridle path . . . . . .8,695 Col de la Roue (Bardonneche to Modane), bridle path . . . . . . . . . .8,419 Col de Freius (same to same), carriage road, beneath which Col de Clapier (Bramans to Susa), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,173 Col d'Izouard (Briancon to the Queyras Valley), carriage path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,835 Col de la Croix (Torre Pellice to Abries); bridle path. . . . . . . . .7,576 Petit Mont Cenis (Bramans to the Mont Cenis Plateau), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,166 Col de Vars (Ubaye Valley to the Queyras Valley), carriage path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,939 Mont Cenis (Lanslebourg to Susa), carriage road. . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,893 Col de Sestrieres (Pignerol to Cesanne), carriage road . . . . . . .6,631 Mont Genevre (Briancon to Cesanne), carriage road . . . . . . . .6,083 Col des Echelles de Planpipinet (Briangon to Bardonneche), partly carriage road. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5,774

3. Dauphine Alps (from the Col du Galibier, westwards and southwards).

Chief Peaks of the Dauphine Alps.

Pointe des Ecrins . . . . . 13,462 Pic Felix Neff. . . . . . . . 10,571 Meije. . . . . . . . . . . . . 13,081 Vieux Chaillol . . . . . . . . . 10,378 Ailefroide . . . . . . . . . . 12,989 Tete de Vautisse. . . . . . . 10,375 Mont Pelvoux . . . . . . . . . 12,973 Grand Pinier . . . . . . . . . . 10,237 Pic Sans Nom . . . . . . . . . 12,845 Pic de Parieres . . . . . . . 10,007 Pic Gaspard. . . . . . . . . . 12,730 Mourre Froid . . . . . . . . . . .9,830 Pic Coolidge . . . . . . . . . 12,323 Belledonne (highest) . . . . . . .9,781 Grande Ruine . . . . . . . . . 12,317 Rocherblanc (Septlaux) . . . . . .9,617 Rateau. . . . . . . . . . . 12,317 Taillefer. . . . . . . . . . . . .9,387 Montagne des Agneaux . . . . . 12,oo8 Pic du Frene. . . . . . . . . .9,219 Les Bans . . . . . . . . . . . 11,979 Tete de l'Obiou . . . . . . . .9,164 Sommet des Rouies. . . . . . . 11,923 Grand Ferrand. . . . . . . . . . .9,059 Aiguille du Plat . . . . . . . 11,818 Pic de Bure (Aurouse). . . . . . .8,898 Pic d'Olan. . . . . . . . . . 11,735 Grand Veymont. . . . . . . . . . .7,697 Pic Bonvoisin. . . . . . . . . 11,680 Mont Aiguille. . . . . . . . . . .6,880 Aiguilles d'Arves (highest Chamechaude. . . . . . . . . . . .6,847 point). . . . . . . . . . . 11,529 Dent de Crolles. . . . . . . . . .6,779 Grandes Rousses. . . . . . . . 11,395 Grand Sore . . . . . . . . . . . .6,670 Roche de la Muzelle. . . . . . 11,349 Mont Granier . . . . . . . . . . .6,358 Sirac. . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,280 Dent du Chat . . . . . . . . . . .4,593

Chief Passes of the Dauphine Alps.

Col de la Lauze (St Christophe to La Grave), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . 11,625 Col des Avalanches (La Berarde to Vallouise), snow. . . . . . . . . . 11,520 Col de la Casse Deserte (La Berarde to La Grave), snow . . . . . . 11,516 Col Emile Pic (La Grave to Vallouise), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,490 Col des Ecrins (La Berarde to Vallouise), snow . . . . . . . . . . 11,205 Col du Glacier Blanc (La Grave to Vallouise), snow . . . . . . . . . . . 10,854 Col du Sele (La Berarde to Vallouise), snow . . . . . . . . . . 10,834 Breche de la Meile (La Berarde to la Grave), snow. . . . . . . . . 10,827 Col de la Temple (La Berarde to Vallouise), snow. . . . . . . . . . . 10,772 Col des Aiguilles d'Arves (Valloire to St Jean d'Arvesl,snow . . . . . . 10,335 Col du Says (La Berarde to the Val Gaudemar), snow. . . . . . . . . . 10,289 Col du Clot des Cavales (La Berarde to La Grave), snow. . . . . . . . 10,263 Col du Loup du Valgaudemar (Vallouise to the Val Gaudemar), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,210 Col Lombard (La Grave to St Jean d'Arves), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,171 Breche des Grandes Rousses (Allemont to Clavans), snow. . . . . . . . 10,171 Col du Sellar (Vallouise to the Val Gaudemar), snow. . . . . . . . . . . 10,063 Col de la Muande (St Christophe to the Val Gaudemar), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,037 Col des Quirlies (St Jean d'Arves to Clavans), snow. . . . . . . . . . . .9,679 Col du Goleon (La Grave to Valloire), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . .9,449 Pas de la Cavale (Vallouise to Champoleon), carriage road . . . . . . .8,990 Col d'Orcieres (Dormillouse to Orcieres), bridle path. . . . . . . .8,859 Col de l'Infernet (La Grave to St lean d'Arves), foot path . . . . . . . .8,826 Col du Galibier (Lautaret Hospice to St Michel de Maurienne), carriage road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,721 Breche de Valsenestre (Bourg d'Oisans to Valsenestre), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,642 Col de Vallonpierre (Val Gaudemar to Champoleon), foot 8,596 path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,596 Col de Val Estrete (same to same), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,596 Col de Vaurze (Val Gaudemar to Val souflrey), foot path. . . . . . . . . .8,531 Col de Martignare (La Grave to St lean d'Arves), foot path . . . . . . . .8,531 Col des Tourettes (Orcieres to Chateauroux), bridle path . . . . . .8,465 Col de la Muzelle (St Christophe to Valsenestre), foot path. . . . . . . .8,202 Col de l'Eychauda (Vallouise to Monestier), bridle path. . . . . . . . . .7,970 Col d'Arsine (La Grave to Monestier), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . .7,874 Col des Pres Nouveaux (Le Frenev to St Jean d'Arves), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,523 Col dessept Lanx (Allevard to Bourg d'Oisans), bridle path . . . . . . . .7,166 Col du Lautaret (Briancon to Bourg d'Oisans), carriage road. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,808 Col de la Croix de Fer (Bourg d'Oisans to St Jean d'Arves), carriage road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,765 Col du Glandon (Bourg d'Oisans to La Chambre), carriage road. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,401 Col de l'Alpe de Venose (Venose to Le Freney), bridle path . . . . .5,446 Col d'Ornon (Bourg d'Oisans to La Mure), carrigae road . . . . . . . . . .4,462 Col Bayard (La Mure to Gap), carriage road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4,088 Col de la Croix Haute (Grenoble to Veynes and Gap), railway line over . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3,829

4. Graian Alps (from the Mont Cenis to the Little St Bernard Pass). These are usually divided into three groups, the Central (the watershed between the two passes named), the Western or French, and the Eastern or Italian; in the following lists the initials ``C,'' ``W,'' and ``E'' show to which group each peak and pass belongs.

Chief Peaks of the Graian Alps.

Grand Paradis (E). . . . . . . 13,324 Grande Aiguille Rousse Grivola (E). . . . . . . . . . 13,022 (C) . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,424 Oirande Casse (W). . . . . . . 12,668 Granta Parey (C) . . . . . . . . 11,395 Mont Pourri (W). . . . . . . . 12,428 Roc du Mulinet (C) . . . . . . . 11,382 Mont Herbetet (E). . . . . . . 12,396 Aiguille Pers (C). . . . . . . . 11,323 Pointe de Charbonel (C). . . . 12,336 Pointe de la Sana (W). . . . . . 11,319 Aiguille de la Grande Cima dell' Auille (C). . . . . . 11,306 Sassiere (C) . . . . . 12,325 Pointe de l.Lchelle (W). . . . . 11,260 Dent Parrachee (W). . . . . 12,179 Punta Foura (E) . . . . . . . 11,188 Tour du Grand St Pierre Pointe des Sengies (E) . . . . . 11,182 (C) . . . . . . . . . . . 11,424 Pointe de la Gliere (W) . . . 11,109 Uja di Ciamareila (C). . . . . 12,061 Pointe de la Galise (C). . . . . 10,975 Cima di Charforon (E). . . . . 12,025 Pointe de la Traversiere Grande Motte (W) . . . . . . . 12,018 (C) . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,962 Albaron (C). . . . . . . . . . 12,915 Pointe de Mean Martin Roccia Viva (E). . . . . . . . 11,976 (W) . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,949 Levanna (C). . . . . . . . . . 11,943 Punta Lavina (E) . . . . . . . . 10,854 Bessanese (C). . . . . . . . . 11,917 Ormelune (C) . . . . . . . . . . 10,77i Punta di Gaij (E). . . . . . . 11,887 Roche Chevriere (W) . . . . . 10,768 Dome de l'Arpont (W) . . . . . 11,874 Signaldu Montlseran (C). . . . . 10,634 Pointe de Ronco (C). . . . . . 11,871 Pointedela Rechasse (W) 10,575 Bec de l'lnvergnan (C) . . . . 11,838 Crand Assaly (C) . . . . . . . . .10,44 Tsanteleina (C). . . . . . . . 11,831 Roisebanque (E). . . . . . . . . 10,381 Dome de Chasseforet (W). 11,802 Bocca di Nona (E). . . . . . . . 10,309 Croce Rossa (C). . . . . . . . 11,703 Torre d'Ovarda (C) . . . . . . . 10,089 Aiguille de Peclot (W). . . 11,700 Pointe du Pousset (E). . . . . . .9,994 Mont Einilius (E). . . . . . . 11,677 Dome de Val d'Isere (C) . . . .9,951 Punta d'Arnas (C). . . . . . . 11,615 UJa di Mondrone (C). . . . . . . .9,725 Aiguille de Polset (W) . . . . 11,608 Bellagarda (C) . . . . . . . . . .9,643 Rochemelon (C) . . . . . . . . 11,605 Monte Marzo (E). . . . . . . . . .9,023 Mont Chalanson(C). . . . . . . 11,582 Petit Mont Blanc de Tersiva (E). . . . . . . . . . 11,526 Pralognan (W).. . . . . . . .8,809 Grande Traversiere (C). . . 11,467 Mont Jouvet (W). . . . . . . . . .8,409 Tete du Rutor (C) . . . . . 11,438 Monte Civrari (C). . . . . . . . .7,553

Chief Passes of the Graian Alps.

Col de la Grande Rousse (Rhemes Valley to the Val Grisanche), snow (C). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,483 Col de Gebroulaz (Arc Valley to Mofitiers Tarentaise), snow (W) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,385 Col de Monel (Cogne to Locana), snow (E) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,247 Col du Grand Paradis (Ceresole to the Val Savaranche), snow (E). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,988 Col du Charforon (same to same), snow (E). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,929 Col de Teleccio (Cogne to Locana), snow (E). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,913 Col de Lauzon (Cogne to the Val Savaranche), bridle path (E) . . . . . . 10,831 Col du Bouquetin (Bonneval to Val d'Isere), snow (C). . . . . . . . . 10,827 Col de St Grat (Val Grisanche to La Thuille), snow (C) . . . . . . . . . 10,827 Col de l'Herbetet (Cogne to the Val Savaranche), snow (E). . . . . . . . 10,686 Col du Collerin (Bessans to Balme), snow (C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,506 Col du Grand Etret (Ceresole to the Val Savaranche), snow (E). . . . . . 10,361 Col de Bassac (Rhemes Valley to the Val Grisanche), snow (C). . . . . 10,345 Col du Carro (Bonneval to Ceresole), snow (C). . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,302 Col d'Arbole (Comboe to Brissogne), snow (E) . . . . . . . . . . . 10,292 Col de la Goletta (Va Id'Isere to the Rhemes Valley), snow (C) . . 10,237 Col de Rhemes (same to same), snow (C). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,174 Col de la Grande Casse (Pralognan to the Premou Glen), snow (W) . . . 10,171 Col de Sea (Bonneval to Forno Alpi Graie), snow (C). . . . . . . . . . . 10,115 Col de l'Autaret (Bessans to Usseglio), foot path (C). . . . . . . . . . 10,073 Col de Girard (Bonneval to Forno Alpi Graie), snow (C) . . . . . . . . . .9,987 Col Rosset (Val Savaranche to the Rhemes Valley), bridle path (C) . . .9,922 Col d'Arnas (Bessans to Balme), snow (C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,889 Col de la Galise (Ceresole to Val d'Isere), snow (C). . . . . . . . . .9,836 Col de Sort (Val Savaranche to the Rhemes Valley), partly bridle path .9,735 Quecees de Tignes (Val d'Isere to Termignon), snow (W) . . . . . . .9,646 Col della Nouva (Cogne to Pont Canavese), partly bridle path (E) . . . . .9,623 Col de Garin (Aosta to Cogne), foot path (E) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,411 Collarin d'Arnas (Balme to Usseglio), snow (C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,351 Finestra del Torrent (Rhemes Valley to the Val Grisanche), foot path. .9,341 Fenetre de Champorcher (Cogne to Champorcher), bridle path (E). . . . .9,311 Col de Vaudet (Isere Valley to the Val Grisanche), foot path (C). . . .9,305 Col de Bardoney (Cogne to Pont Canavese), snow (E) . . . . . . . . . . . .9,295 Col de Chaviere (Modane to Pralognan), foot path (W). . . . . . . . . .9,206 Col de la Leisse (Tignes to Termignon), snow (W) . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,121 Col du Mont Iseran (Bonneval to Val d'Isere), bridle path (C) . . . . .9,085 Ghicet di Sea (Balme to Forno Alpi Graie), foot path (C) . . . . . . . . .8,973 Col de la Sachette (Tignes to Bourg St Maurice), foot path (W) . . . . . .8,954 Col du Palet (Tignes to Moutiers Tarentaise or Bourg St Maurice), bridle path (W) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,721 Col du Mont (Ste Foy to the Val Grisanche), bridle path (C). . . . . . . .8,681 Col de la Croix de Nivolet (Ceresole to the Val Savaranche), bridle path (E). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,665 Col della Crocetta (Ceresole to Forno Alpi Graie), bridle path (C) . . . .8,649 Col de la Platiere (St Jean de Maurienne to Moutiers Tarentaise), partly bridle path (W). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,531 Col de la Vanoise (Pralognan to Termignon), bridle path (W). . . . . . . .8,291 Col des Encombres (St Michel de Maurienne to Moutiers Tarentaise), bridle path (W) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,668 Little St Bernard (Aosta to Moutiers Tarentaise), carriage road (C) . .7,179 Col de la Madeleine (La Chambre to Moutiers Tarentaise), bridle path (W). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,509

5. Pennine Alps (from the Little St Bernard to the Simplon Pass). This range contains all the highest peaks in the Alps, save the Finsteraarhorn (14,026) in the Bernese Oberland.

Chief Peaks of the Pennine Alps.