Chapter VIII: Part 8

The loss of all interest in public affairs was the natural effect of the change of Administration to me. The Dissolution took place in May. The elections turned out full as favourable as had been expected. Bedfordshire was closely run between Fitzpatrick and Osborne, and carried by a moderate majority. Yorkshire very triumphant in favour of Ld. Milton;[295] Wilberforce accused and suspected of coalescing with Lascelles, lost him greatly his popularity, and his shabby desertion of the late Ministry.[296] A petition against Milton was ready, and upon the point of being presented, but he judiciously procured one also against Wilberforce, which, being held _in terrorem_, inclined Wilberforce to exert and pledge himself on behalf of Ministers, who came forward and promised to drop the petition against Ld. Milton, if he in return would stipulate that the one against Wilberforce should be dropped.

On ye 1st of May we went with all our family, excepting Mary,[297] to Southampton. We lived in the Margravine’s house on the margin of the water. The weather was remarkably fine, the scenery agreeable, and the singularity of the arrangement of the houses and a terrace give it a foreign air, which transported me in imagination to happier localities.

[Sidenote: SOUTHAMPTON]

The Cowpers[298] made us a visit of a week; the Kinnairds took a house near to us and spent a fortnight. Lauderdale, Marsh, B. Frere, and Mr. Horner made us a visit for a few days. We went over to Portsmouth to take leave of Bartholomew, who was going with Sr. Arthur Paget[299] to Constantinople. He brought with him Mr. Morier,[300] a sensible, agreeable young man, who went in the capacity of interpreter; he is a nephew of Ly. Radstock’s, his mother being a Smyrnese. Made several excursions to Broadlands, the New Forest, and Titchfield Castle, &c. The latter is remarkable for having been the birthplace of the celebrated Ly. Russell; the last place in England where Charles I. took refuge. It is in a ruinous state, but even in its decay retains strong marks of its former splendour; the stables are spacious and grand.

Returned home about 17th June, 1807. Parliament very briskly attended; scandalous retaliation of each party upon the score of jobbing. Unfortunate Scotch business of Adam about Ld. Cullen.[301]

Ld. Granville Leveson set off upon his Embassy to Petersburg. An expedition fitted out to the Baltic. Treaty of Tilsit arrived.

* * * * *

After the delay of a fortnight, in consequence of my having a smart bilious fever, we set off on the 22nd of August for our Scotch tour. Our party consisted of ourselves, Charles, Mr. Allen, Marsh, Mr. Knapp, Amelie, Aleck, Baptiste, Wm., Antonio. Being rather weak, the journeys were to be short. The first night we slept at Dunstable. On Sunday went through Northampton to Welford. The road remarkably good and handsome, raised upon a _chaussée_, like the public roads in France, Italy, or Spain.

On Monday passed through Leicester and Loughboro’ to Nottingham, where we dined. It is a considerable town, well situated; the site of the ancient castle is very striking, tho’ it is greatly destroyed by the modern mansion which the bad taste of a Duke of Newcastle allowed to be erected within the old walls.[302] The Trent is rather a large river; the bridge we crossed was handsome and well built. Ld. H. called upon the Mayor and Recorder; the Corporation are chiefly Dissenters, and strongly attached to the Opposition. They testified their respect for the memory of Mr. Fox by sending a deputation from the town of Nottingham to walk at his funeral. In the evening we were overtaken by a storm of thunder and lightning just upon the outskirts of Sherwood Forest; I was terrified, and sought shelter in the house of a family of the name of _Lowe_. We proceeded on to Mansfield, where we slept. On Tuesday we set off at eleven, went about two miles out of the direct road to see Hardwicke, the prison for many years of the unfortunate Mary. The house in which she was confined is falling into ruins; the present house was built by the celebrated Elizabeth, Countess of Shrewsbury, after Mary had been withdrawn from her custody.

The road to Chesterfield is pretty. Sheffield was full as dirty and offensive as before. Slept at Penistone, a small village and bad inn quite out of the high road. Got out and looked at the Castle of Skipton, a valuable estate annexed to which belongs to Thanet. Got late in the evening to Lowood Inn, by the side of Windermere. I was not well in the night.

[Sidenote: WORDSWORTH]

_Wednesday._--Sent an invitation to Wordsworth, one of the Lake poets, to come and dine, or visit us in the evening. He came. He is much superior to his writings, and his conversation is even beyond his abilities. I should almost fear he is disposed to apply his talents more towards making himself a _vigorous conversationist_ in the style of our friend Sharp,[303] than to improve his style of composition. He is preparing a manual to guide travellers in their tour amongst the Lakes. He holds some opinions on picturesque subjects with which I completely differ, especially as to the effects produced by _white_ houses on the sides of the hills; to my taste they produce a cheerful effect. He, on the contrary, would brown, or even black-work them; he maintained his opinion with a considerable degree of ingenuity. His objection was chiefly grounded upon the distances being confounded by the glare of white. He seems well read in his provincial history.

On Thursday, after stopping to see a very feeble cascade at Sr. Daniel Le Fleming’s, we reached Keswick to dinner. We found Southey, who had accepted our invitation. He is full of genius and poetical enthusiasm. His _History of Portugal_ is suspended in order that he may publish, by way of prefatory discourse, a _Life of the Cid_, which he is translating from an old Chronicle, and unfortunately into the style and language of the Bible. He has already made that experiment in his translation of _Amadis de Gaul_, and of his _History of Portugal_; to suit the curiosity of the day, he is going to publish the colonial part first.[304] This may be profitable, and the spirit of it obtained him from Whishaw the name of ‘Voulgar Tradesman.’ In the evening we visited his family; I was curious to see his interior. His house is excellent and beautifully situated. He seems much beloved by a numerous domestic circle of connections and friends; he is surrounded by heaps of old and valuable Spanish books.

On Friday we set off to profit by the hospitality of Ld. Thanet, who offered us the comfort and repose of Appleby. We passed by Ullswater, but only saw the upper part of the Lake, which, from all accounts, is very inferior in beauty to the view a few miles lower. From Pooley Bridge we drove through a very fine country to Appleby. On our road we got out to see Brougham Hall, a very beautiful place belonging to Mr. Brougham’s father. The view from the terrace is quite magnificent; the family have not inhabited the house for many years, and it is falling fast into decay.

[Sidenote: APPLEBY CASTLE]

Appleby is placed in a commanding situation above the town; a pretty torrent rushes beneath the walls. The old Keep or Citadel was, till within these few years, used as the prison. Ld. Thanet is Hereditary Sheriff of the County. The present mansion is built out of the old Castle, or rather made within its walls. This was done by the celebrated Ann Clifford, the heiress and representative of the Earls of Cumberland; her daughter married a Tufton, and thus brought these immense northern estates into the present family. She wrote the famous letter, in reply to the solicitation of a Minister of Charles II. or James, to allow a Court member to stand for Appleby, ‘I have been threatened by a usurper, neglected by a Court, but will not be bullied by a subject; your man shall _not_ stand.’

Mr. Wyburgh, a lawyer of eminence, was in the Castle; he was employed on an election arbitration between Ld. Lowther and Thanet, upon the number of votes in Appleby.

Visiting Naworth Castle, where ‘Lord Carlisle occasionally
comes for a fortnight in the shooting season,’ the party
entered Scotland, and passing Longtown, Moffat, and Lanark,
reached Hamilton. ‘The Palace is reckoned gloomy. The
present Duke has augmented the collection of pictures, but
the Rubens and Vandyke still maintain their posts as the
first....’

_8th._--Got to Dumbarton. Slept at Aroquhar; a good inn, well situated upon a salt loch; it was very beautiful, but we could not admire it after having spent the day by the side of Loch Lomond, so in a storm of hail, rain, wind, and sleet, and snow falling upon the mountains, we reached Inverary. The Duke[305] is in perfect health; the inmates there, the Bedfords, Ld. John[306] and Mr. Hunt, the T. Sheridans, E. Bligh, Lewis, Chester, Cornewall, H. Scott. At difft. times, Ld. Ely, Downshire, Messrs. Reid, Ld. John Campbell, Mr. Campbell, Col. Callander, McDonald, and Clanronald, and others whom I have forgotten. The house has undergone great alterations; the upper floor is entirely new furnished. To enliven the scene the high road is brought close to the windows. Upon the whole it is a most princely domain, and the Duke is a noble Chieftain. The only objection to the mode of life is the extraordinary lateness of the hours, and the consequent inability of doing anything; some wags have called it the Castle of Indolence. As late as half past seven in the morning, I have heard the billiards at work by T. Sheridan and Mr. Chester.[307]

After a tour along Loch Tay to Blair Atholl, they turned
south to Perth, visited Brechin Castle and Dundee, and
reached Edinburgh on October 6.

During our stay there we saw much of Messrs. Playfair, Jeffrey, Brougham, Murray, Dr. Cameron the Catholic Bishop (late Principal of the Scotch College at Valladolid), a very able man, Thompsons, &c., &c. Lauderdale came over to see us; the Bedfords for a short time.

Slept three nights at Dunbar House, and went from thence to Howick, staying several days. Through York to Castle Howard; stayed three nights. Marsh remained there; and by the way of Newark to Nottingham, where Ld. H. received the Freedom of ye City, and we went by Leicester to meet, at Hinckley, Henry E.,[308] whom Miss Fox brought us from St. Anne’s. We there consulted with Chesher, a famous mechanician for instruments; he measured the limb, and gave us hopes that he could contrive an instrument to assist his walking. From Hinckley we went through Litchfield to Trentham Hall, where we stayed a few days; returned through Hinckley to Woburn Abbey. We there spent upwards of a week most agreeably. Returned home, Nov. 24th, 1807.

[Sidenote: HENRY EDWARD FOX]

_Dec. 12th._--Mr. Allen accompanied Henry E. to Hinckley, where he was to reside with Ld. Robt. Fitzgerald, and under his protection.

On 31st Dec. went without Mr. Allen, who was employed busily at home, for a few days to Brocket. We there heard of the measles having appeared in Ld. Robt.’s family, and set off to Hinckley to remove Henry E., if possible, in time. We slept at Woburn one night on our way in going, two at Ampthill, and one more at Woburn on our return. Henry E. did not escape the measles, but is now recovering.

_January 1808, H. House._--Sr. Arthur Paget returned last month from his unsuccessful Embassy. For seven months he only slept one night on land. He never approached nearer the Porte than the small Island of Imbros. B. Frere returned with him. He sent Mr. Morier to Egypt.

The choice of G. Ponsonby for a Leader to the Opposition has been more approved, or, rather, to speak more correctly, less objected to than might have been expected.[309] The public laugh at the having sent to Ireland for a leader; Fox’s friends are indifferent since his death. Petty is reasonable as usual, and Whitbread, goaded by a scribbling gazetteer of the name of Belsham,[310] submits with a thousand reservations each more hostile than the other. Tom Grenville absolutely declined, on the score of health alone; he is in fact far from a robust subject, and quite unfit to undergo the fatigues of a long debate. Sheridan’s talents would entitle him to the first rank, but his profligacy of character, both as to veracity and honesty, besides his habitual debauchery, place him entirely _hors de combat_.

Ld. Granville Leveson is just returned from Petersburg; another fruitless Mission! He describes the Emperor as being totally subjugated by Bonaparte, and even trembling before his representative, General Savary, who assumes the air of a master in Russia.[311] From the little I have heard, he seems to me to be entirely belonging to the present Governt.

On Monday, the 17th, we took Charles to Eton. He is now launched into the sea of human affairs; the _world_ of a public school he will find very different from that of the world seen from under the paternal roof.

[Sidenote: WAR BY COMPULSION]

On ye 16th, the chief persons of ye Opposition dined at Ld. Grenville’s; Whitbread was not originally invited, but was so, at the particular request of Ld. Grey. Stahremberg[312] sent the whole of the correspondence between him and the Governt. which ended in the present rupture between them and his Court. Mr. Canning seems to have rejected the mediation of Austria in very unbecoming terms, and in his usual flippant manner; the whole will be made public. S.’s instructions are peremptory as to his quitting England before the meeting of Parlt. Bonaparte offered passports for _two_ plenipos., hoped they would select men of ‘_formes simples_’ and of a ‘_caractère impassible_’; a glance against either Lds. Lauderdale or Malmesbury. S., in his private letters to Metternich, complained of Mr. Canning’s impetuosity, and misapprehension of several expressions. Whitbread, with malignity and in the most unprovoked manner, attacked Ld. Grey at dinner; all were disgusted at his rancorous spirit. It was unfortunate that such a wrangle should occur before Ld. Grenville upon the subject of peace, as he had only just been persuaded against seceding himself from the H. of Lords upon the precise subject of the question of peace, and the want of discipline and unanimity amongst the difft. parts of the Opposition.

_18th._--Ld. H. dined at Ld. Stafford’s. We went to the Birthday.

_19th._--The same party dined here as did at Ld. Grenville’s, with the addition of a few, and Ld. Erskine, _nommément_ to prevent a recurrence of the unpleasant conversation between Whitbread and Grey.

I hear nothing but of Coleridge, which makes me regret not being acquainted with him. After having accepted, by way of recompense for three scurrilous letters against Mr. Fox which appeared in the _Morning Post_ upon his residence at Paris, a Commissaryship at Malta, he is returned to England, where he is supposed to employ himself in writing articles in the _Courier_.[313] His nature is radically bad; he hates and envies all that are good and celebrated, and to gratify that spleen he has given in to Methodism, not from conviction, but solely to enable him to give vent to his malignity in a garb which is a _passe partout_. He is fond of maintaining paradoxes; at a dinner lately he began by attacking Sir Isaac Newton’s philosophy, Bonaparte’s military talents, and Virgil as a poet. He is often obscure, a mystical species of platonic philosophy, which he dresses up according to his own metaphysical taste, and calls the _mind_. A new theory he descants upon at length, and in his exposition of it absorbs the whole conversation. I have heard of him from various persons; Campbell, the poet, furnished me with the latter particulars.

[Sidenote: OPENING OF PARLIAMENT]

The debate on the Address went off very triumphantly for the Opposition in the Lords, and, as far as the negative success of the failure of Ministers in making an impression, did so in the Commons. Ld. Grenville made a masterly speech in which he pressed strongly the atrocity of the Copenhagen business, the impolicy of their conduct with regard to the U. States, rather depreciated the prospect of the advantages of the emigration of the Portuguese to _Brésil_, and touched lightly upon peace. The novelty of the night was Ld. Kenyon,[314] who did not acquit himself _formidably_. Some considered Mr. G. Ponsonby’s speech as a complete failure, but more temperate judges say it was not so, and the accident of not moving the Amendment arose from a misapprehension of more protests than his alone. Mr. Canning appears to have assumed the lead, and by an endeavour to appear dignified he was heavy and obscure, instead of being, as formerly, pretty flippant. Perceval excelled him much, but the fair ones allow there was not a good speech made in the whole debate. Mr. C. professed that Governt. had laid down a rule, which was to act directly contrary to what they found had been the conduct of their predecessors, and hitherto they had not erred.

On Monday, the 1st of Feb., we moved to Pall Mall. I had been confined many days with a smart inflammation in my eyes.

On Wednesday, 3rd Feb., a long debate in the Commons on Mr. Ponsonby’s motion for further papers on the Danish Expedition.[315] Altho’ he had spoken before, yet this was considered as a debut; his friends were rather anxious, as his forte lies more in reply than in the opening of a business. However, he acquitted himself well, and people seem to be generally satisfied with him. He was answered by Mr. Canning in a speech remarkable chiefly from its length, and the abundance of gross untruths; he read extracts out of those very despatches he refused to give to the House, and in one instance (a dispatch of Ld. Howick’s to Mr. Garlike) read a sentence which, if he had read the context, would have given a different colour to the whole matter. He was very flippant and offensive, and showed neither more nor less ability than usual. Mr. Mills[316] [_sic_], his _élève_, was quite extinguished; it was the first occasion on which he had attempted to speak without previously writing his speech, so he is completely given up by all and laughed at by his own party. Ld. Palmerston’s maiden speech was not attended either with the bad or good qualities of a young beginner; he had practised in debating societies, and formed an unimpressive, bad manner. Some of Opposition who are for the expedition yet voted upon this question, but would not if it had been a vote against the Ministry for that measure. Upon the whole the effect of the debate was rather against Opposition.

Sick of, and indifferent to the measures of a hopeless Opposition, I have omitted noticing any occurrence.

* * * * *

[Sidenote: SOLANO’S DEATH]

_July 1808._--Mr. Campbell, whom we knew at Madrid, returned from Spain with the Deputies from Seville.[317] He remained at Cadiz during the disturbances, surrender of the French fleet, and murder of Solano.[318] The conduct of Solano he ascribed to the greatest infatuation, proceeding from a blind confidence in O’Farrill.[319] The leading people at and about Cadiz, as soon as Murat’s massacre[320] on the 2nd of May was known, urged Solano to hoist the Spanish flag alone, and summon the French fleet to surrender to the Spaniards. He temporised; he was at length threatened that unless he did something decisive against the French by the ensuing day, his life should answer for his conduct. The people showed great symptoms of discontent, called him _embustero_, &c. Amongst the mob many persons supposed of eminence were in disguise. During this period of hesitation on his part, young Perico Giron (whom we knew intimately at Madrid) escaped, upon hearing the events at Madrid, from his regiment at Badajoz, and arrived at Cadiz and challenged Solano. But no duel took place, for the fatal day came when the people assembled tumultuously around his house, called for him to appear and justify his inaction, none of the measures required by the inhabitants having been adopted. He appeared upon his balcony. The sight of him seemed to incense the mob; they attempted to force the entrance of the house, the gateways were barricaded. Upon seeing their fury, he got through the roof of his own house, and gained admittance into that of Mr. Strange (an Irish wine merchant), where he was concealed in a hiding-place so effectually that the mob, after searching, as they imagined, every place, were going off, when unfortunately a man, who had been employed only 14 days before to paint over a panel in order to cover a hiding-place, betrayed the concealment and discovered Solano. He made no resistance; the people hurried him to the place of execution. In going thither, some person said he ought to have a priest, upon which Solano said that it was unnecessary, as he had nothing to confess; this he frequently repeated, till at length the mob lost all restraint, and upwards of fifty bayonets were plunged into his body, and his corpse was hacked and mutilated shockingly in a moment.

As soon as this disgraceful act of cruelty was over, the necessity of having some Governt. was felt, and it was agreed almost by acclamation that Morla, Don Thomas Morla, who had formerly been the Captain-General of Andalusia, and had distinguished himself by the prompt and decisive measures which he had taken to prevent the progress of the yellow fever, was the best fitted to fill the station now vacant. Morla, it was supposed, had not entirely made up his mind as to the side he should take, and that, like Solano, he waited for Dupont’s[321] army. However, he had no choice, and accepted with reluctance the honour. He harangued the people with great ability and fortitude, assured them that if he undertook the charge he would fulfil it rigidly; that they knew him to be inflexible, nor should he depart from what he thought his duty, notwithstanding the dreadful spectacle he had just beheld. He gave an immediate proof of his cleverness and dexterity; during the tumult, about eight hundred of the _Presidarios_, galley-slaves, broke into the Arsenal, armed themselves and others. Morla was aware of the danger, and also of the impolicy of allowing such men to bear arms, and resolved upon disarming them instantly. He ordered processions to be made through the streets of the Capucins and other Franciscan friars, who were to chant hymns and prayers requesting the citizens to lay down their arms. By night almost all the inhabitants had deposited their arms at the feet of the friars.

[Sidenote: DUKE OF INFANTADO]

I was pleased to find such a favourable opinion prevailed with regard to the Duke of Infantado.[322] He had been exiled from his own estates, and lived at San Lucar, where he had acquired the esteem and confidence of all who saw him. Thus his conduct at Bayonne is conceived to arise entirely from compulsion. He was dismissed the Court in consequence of that affair at the Escorial in which he was involved, as there was a paper found in his possession signed by the Prince of the Asturias, nominating him as President of Castille, in which capacity he would have had the governt. of the country. The Prince contended that this instrument could have had no power but after his mother’s death, in proof of which he alleged that the seal was affixed upon black wax, and it was only to obviate the danger that might have arisen in the country should his mother and the Prince of the Peace have been able to shut him up and attempt an exclusion or Regency.

We went in July to Woburn; Mr. Brougham was with us. Our party consisted of Lauderdale, D. of Argyle, W. Elliot, Adam, etc. Extremely pleasant place, both grand and comfortable, and the park very pretty in some parts. Went over to see Luton, belonging to Ld. Bute. The house was built by his father, the Minister, and does no credit to his choice of an architect, the Adams. The collection of pictures is very numerous, the Flemish and Dutch schools are the finest, altho’ amongst the great number of Italian pictures some are good. The most remarkable portraits are those grouped with some malicious skill by Sr. Joshua. They are those of Ld. Bute and his Secretary, Jenkinson, now Ld. Liverpool.[323] The Prime Minister is represented with all the pomp and dignity of office, a splendid dress and commanding air; he is taking, rather than receiving, from his Secretary a bundle of papers, which the Secretary, with a most submissive air, is holding in his hands. The story tells itself,--the Duke of Lerma and Gil Blas; the abject, fawning, sly Secretary, and the haughty great man. People say Sr. Joshua Reynolds marked the characters so strongly in order to stamp the origin of a man, whose sneaking qualities he foresaw would raise him to distinction. Ld. Liverpool, I have been assured, offered frequently a very large sum to withdraw from the eye of the public this memorial. The Library is very extensive, and the three rooms which join it are handsome, altho’ it might have been infinitely better.

[Sidenote: WILLIAM BELSHAM]

We went to Hinckley to see Henry E., who had been there about a month with his aunt; his limb is not worse. From thence for one night to Farming Woods, belonging to Ld. Ossory; charming spot, fine trees, abundance of deer, and wild woodland scenery. Slept at Bromham, Mr. Trevor’s, a pretty water place on the banks of the Ouse. From thence for three nights to Mr. Whitbread’s at Southill. Ly. Madelina Palmer[324] was there. With the exception of the Trevors for one day, the rest of the company was _remplissage_ of the very worst sort, fulsome flatterers, and disgusting dependents. Mr. Belsham, the gazetteer or pamphleteer, who calls his heavy compilation a History of England, was one of them; his manners and appearance are positively offensive to all the senses. He extols Whitbread to the skies, and makes him believe no man can serve the country with equal talents and honesty, and that nothing but Ld. Grey’s envy at his superiority could have kept him out of the highest offices in the late Administration. He has composed a virulent libel against the late Governt., which he circulates about the country, and boasts of his forbearance, that out of consideration to Mr. Whitbread’s _affection_ for Ld. Grey that he does not publish it. It is particularly offensive to Grey, and the subject most urged is the failure of the negotiation. Mr. W. has an unfortunate relish for the society he indulges in at Southill.

Returned on Thursday, 11th August. On ye 19th August news arrived officially from Ld. Collingwood of Dupont’s surrender to Castaños in Andalusia.[325]

_16th August._ The Spanish Deputies dined here. They are five in all, viz., Visconde de Matarosa[326] and Don Andres de la Vega (these were the first, who came from the Junta of Oviedo). The Visconde is a very young man, not above 19; la Vega is a sensible, well-informed man, esteemed by his countryman Jovellanos. Sangro is the Deputy from Galicia; he had been named to go to Bayonne, but escaped and was sent with another, Freyne,[327] who has since returned to Coruña with arms, &c., &c. The Sevillian Deputies are Jacome and Apodaca. Jacome is a member of the Junta at Seville. The latter is the admiral who commanded these last two years at Cadiz, and to whom the French fleet surrendered. He is very lively and pleasing in his manners, and of the whole mission he is the one who has the most _usage du monde_.

He ascribes the misfortune of Solano to the machinations of a faction actuated by personal hatred. Had Solano complied with the demands of the mob, the consequence would have been the complete destruction of their own fleet, as at that moment the ships were so intermingled that the French could have sunk the Spaniards. Apodaca seemed satisfied with himself for his dexterity in getting out the Spaniards and not endangering them. They were in great spirits at the surrender of Dupont, and also at the news of the evacuation of Madrid. It appears that Joseph Bonaparte withdrew from thence on ye 29th, after staying only 3 days in _his_ Capital, rather hastily, with the spoils and plunder of the palaces. He is at Segovia, with a force of 23,000, waiting orders from Napoleon. Moncey and his shattered Valencian army are with him. Mr. Vaughan writes from Coruña that Mr. Stuart (who was formerly at Petersburg) was received with great demonstrations of regard and friendship; the officers, naval and military, had shown him Ferrol, and as he returned the villages were illuminated. They had heard of Sr. A. Wellesley’s landing at the mouth of the Mondego, the river so praised by Camoens.

We left home on Sunday, August 22nd, for this place Boundes, Ld. Hy. Petty’s. Made an excursion from thence along the coast from Hastings to Brighton; passed a few days at Mr. Beauclerk’s, and returned home, 1st September.

At the end of October the Hollands set out for Spain, and
did not return until the following August. Lady Holland
continued to keep a detailed account of their travels and
the information which reached them concerning the movements
of the opposing forces in Spain and the progress of the
war. This portion of her Journal, however, is omitted.

On August 12th, 1809, reached Holland House, where we found the children and my mother perfectly well. The Pettys and Beauclerks and many of our friends came from the country to see us, and stayed a few days in the house.

[Sidenote: LORD LANSDOWNE’S DEATH]

_22nd Nov._--It is too distant from this present period to make a review of all the occurrences from that time to this. Mr. Canning and Ld. Castlereagh fought on 21st Sept. Ld. Wellesley has accepted his recall,[328] and is daily expected; many believe he is coming upon the misapprehension that the Premiership has been offered to him. Lord Lansdowne[329] died on 14th Nov., which event is fatal to the Opposition by removing Petty from the H. of Commons. He has endeavoured to annoy Petty by his will and much disrespect for his father’s family, by making the remainder over to Ld. Winchilsea, and then to Ly. Lansdowne and her 2nd daughter.[330] To the latter, they say, a lease for 21 years is granted of L. H.

On 7th Nov. I was brought to bed of a daughter.[331]

Tuesday, 21st Nov., 1809, Ld. H. on this day completed his thirty-six years. He dined at Ld. Winchilsea’s.[332] Mr. Allen and I alone. He read in eve. Berington’s _Life of Henry II._, a work not without merit, tho’ the language is frequently barbarous.[333] The character of Becket is well drawn, and from his close researches into monkish chronicles he gives many interesting anecdotes which throw light upon the manners and mode of life in those times. He is a Roman Catholic priest, and tho’ one sees a bias, yet he has more liberality than usual with persons of his class. Indeed, at Rome he was suspected of giving up the cause of the Church too much: accordingly for some time he was suspended from his clerical functions by a papal mandate. He is also the author of a life of _Abelard and Eloïsa_, and possesses in manuscript, which he dare not publish, a history of the revival of learning.

Mr. Canning wrote to Ld. G. Leveson: ‘Lord Chuckle [_sic_] is, I hear, sufficiently recovered to take his prescription; accordingly, I shall send my letter to-morrow, and the other shall go abroad the day following.’ So we may expect to-morrow to see this long announced and much looked-for _second_ statement.[334]

Henry and his tutor, Mr. Shuttleworth, left us on Sunday for Hinckley.

_Wednesday, 22nd._--Mr. Tierney, Mr. Grenville, and Ld. Darnley dined.

_Thursday, 23rd Nov._--Ministerial papers announce very triumphantly that Ld. Wellesley has accepted the office offered to him by them, and is to come home immediately and fill his place.

Ly. Eliz.[335] came, the first time I have seen her since her marriage with Duke of Devonshire; I could not utter a congratulation upon the occasion. The Lambs, Mr. Windham, S. Lockington, Sr. Robt. Wilson, Mr. Stuart, Duke of Argyle, Ld. Robt. FitzGerald, Ly. Affleck dined.

Mr. C.’s statement is not yet out. My mother returned from Gosport with Charles, whom she had been to see on acct. of his illness.

_Friday, 24th Nov._--Ld. Wellesley has written to Mr. Canning assigning his reasons for accepting, but what they are I know not.

[Sidenote: PANSHANGER]

_14th Dec., 1809._--The Whig Corporation of Nottingham having done Ld. H. the honour of choosing him their Recorder, vacant by the death of the D. of Portland, it was necessary for him to go there and take the oaths. Accordingly we took the opportunity of making the journey in part with him, and of paying some visits on our way, for change of air for me after a confinement is indispensable to keep off a whole train of nervous disorders, and I did not much relish the notion of a trip to Nottingham to share his civic honours. On this day we went to _Panshanger_, on the _banks of the Mimram_, a very Asiatic sound! A pretty place of Lord Cowper’s in Hertfordshire. We took Tierney with us. Found besides the family, Lds. Essex, Erskine, and Mr. Giles Lewis. No news of the result of the election at Oxford,[336] but the Grenvilles began to despond.

Drove out to see the new college at Haileybury, a large, ugly, mean-looking conventual building. In the eve, news came of Lord Grenville’s success at Oxford; carried it by a majority of 13.

_15th._--Drove to Woolmers, a dismal, damp, ill-kept house, belonging to Ld. Stafford. It was too cold to walk to the spring, and, indeed, I am too lame to undertake any excursion on foot.

_16th, Sunday._--We were to have gone away, but delayed our departure in order to see Ly. Melbourne, who was coming on the ensuing day.

_17th._--Ly. Melbourne came.

_18th, Tuesday._--Set off and resolved to go as far as we could, as Ld. H. was to be at Nottingham to a great dinner on Wednesday. The roads were in a very bad condition owing to the great fall of rain; however, we reached Stamford and slept.

_19th._--Ld. H. set off alone to Nottingham. Mr. Allen, Charles, and I went to see Burleigh, a stately edifice, not improved by the bad taste of the last proprietor. A few good pictures, and several beautiful portraits of Mde. de la Vallière after her profession, in the dress of the Order. Ascertained that the story of Ld. Exeter having made a bonfire, in the courtyard, of Voltaire, Rousseau, &c., was true. This was done to edify the people at Stamford during the _alarm_, to teach them to shun the doctrines of those apostates from religion, morality, &c. From thence we went to Grantham, where I resolved to take up my abode till Ld. H. returned.

_20th._--Went to see Belvoir, which is undergoing a thorough reparation and improvement by Wyatt. It commands a staring, ugly view of the Vale of Belvoir. The antique baronial costume of the castle is destroyed by the introduction of modern fortifications and of artillery mounted upon the walls. The collection of pictures is very good. The famous ‘Sacraments’ of _Poussin_, and a pretty _Murillo_ with three Virgins in white, exactly in the style of those in the famous ‘Transito de Santa Clara,’ in the convent at Seville. We sent for _novels_ to the circulating library, and sat up reading the trash it furnished half the night.

_21st._--Ld. H. returned pleased with the reception he had met with from his fellow Burgesses, and we got on to Stilton, a bad, dismal inn.

[Sidenote: CAMBRIDGE]

_22nd._--We went to Cambridge, to show Mr. A. the colleges, &c. Got there by daylight. Dr. Davy,[337] the Master of Caius College, made us dine with him; a good-natured, trifling, insignificant man. Lord Percy, Dukes of Rutland and Gloster are to be the candidates for the Chancellorship, whenever the D. of Grafton will die and give them an opportunity of trying their popularity.

_23rd._--A fall of snow which rendered the walking across the Quadrangle unpleasant. The Library at Trinity is very handsome, but the books are the least to be praised in it. A good bust of Newton. The chapel contains a statue of Newton; the countenance is full of expression and genius, but the sculpture is very moderate, altho’ considered by them as a _chef-d’œuvre_. Went to the chapel of King’s College. Glad that my recollection of Batalha was so fresh that it enabled me to compare the architectural styles and beauties. That of Batalha[338] is generally superior in execution, the taste of King’s chapel perhaps is more chaste and simple, but it does not possess one specimen of exquisite delicacy of sculpture; the roses and portcullis are coarsely carved.

Passed through Eaton and Bedford. Reached Ampthill to a late dinner. Waters very much out.

_24th, Ampthill._--Ld. Ossory as usual kind and very pleasant. Capt. Waldegrave, a cousin, and son of Lady Waldegrave. Our old shipmate, Sr. John Sinclair, Dr. Hunt, &c. A contagious fever at Southill prevents our visit; Lady Elizabeth ill. Mr. Whitbread came over to see us, much offended and irritated at the anonymous circular; ascribes all as intended offences from Grey and Tierney to _him_. Reached Brocket on the 27th.

_28th, Brocket._--Large family party with the addition of Messrs, Luttrell and Nugent. Ld. Kinnaird dined one day, grave, good-humoured, and agreeable; his illness has subdued and softened his naturally irritable character. We were to have set off again on the 1st January for Woburn, but I was seized with such a severe headache that I was compelled to return to my bed; sent an excuse for that day to the D. of B. by Aleck, who was to meet us at St. Albans on the following day.

_Monday, 2nd January, 1810._--Very much alarmed at the account brought by Aleck of Charles having met with a severe fall. Contrary to a promise given me by Lady Anne (and his uncle),[339] she allowed him to go out with her to a fox chase. He cut the inside of his leg between ham and knee dreadfully. Reached Woburn late, and after a hasty dinner Mr. A. and I set off to see Charles; found him with fever. Went again next day to see the wound; found it a most dreadful gash, as bad as anything can be which has not touched a vital part, and may not perhaps do him a permanent injury.

_Sunday, 7th._--Ld. H. was so much pressed to go to town that he went to see Lds. Grey and Grenville, and dined at Mr. Grenville’s. Duke of B. went next day and returned to dinner, bringing Lord Holland down with him. Ld. Kinnaird, Mr. Chester, Delmé Gunning, Morrice, General Fitzpatrick, Tavistocks, &c., compose off and on the party.

_10th Jan._--We this day brought Charles over from Ampthill, who bore the motion of the carriage tolerably. He will oblige us to defer going away much longer than we intended to be absent from home.

[Sidenote: DEBATE ON THE ADDRESS]

Left Woburn on ----. Stayed at H.H. until Monday, 22nd Jan., the eve of the meeting of Parlt., and on that day took possession of our former dirty habitation in Pall Mall. On 23rd there were very sanguine expectations entertained of not only a good division, but even of a majority of 13 in the Commons, it being confidently asserted that many of the stoutest adherents of the former Ministry would keep away, such as the Lascelles’, Pagets, Ld. Newark, &c. However, every one of these came up, and after a flat debate the majority was all on the wrong side. Numbers, 167 to 263.[340]

Mr. Ward made a brilliant display, and all the young gentlemen, movers and seconders, acquitted themselves with propriety. Mr. Canning voted for the Address in a bad, blundering speech, in which he did not redeem the pledge he had made of justifying himself in his place in Parlt. It was rather a whimsical coincidence that Ld. G. Leveson could not vote, not being _in time_ to take his seat. This is the third time in his Parliamentary life that he has been baffled in voting upon dubious occasions however. In the Lords the attempt to stir Ld. Wellesley failed. Lord Grey’s speech was a most finished oration. The division was great, 92; numbers which would formerly have broken up any Administration.[341]

On Friday Lord Porchester’s motion of inquiry into the Walcheren expedition was most unexpectedly carried by a majority of 9 against Ministers.[342] Wilberforce behaved in the most flagrant but sanctified manner; he deserted his friend Perceval at the critical pinch. Mr. Ponsonby is recovering his reputation; he made a sharp, sarcastic speech which produced a considerable effect and reconciled those who had _snouched_ most at him. Mr. Canning acted against inquiry, and upon observing to Ld. Temple that he (Ld. Temple) was in a majority, was answered, ‘Yes, and the best part of it is that it was without yr. assistance.’ Ld. Castlereagh, whose manly conduct and being considered as an injured man by the House has conciliated him much public esteem, voted for the inquiry.

Ld. Wellesley made his debut in the character of Minister upon the thanks of the House being moved to Ld. Wellington. Some commend, and others disparage his speech; perhaps the middle line of praise would be nearest the truth. He was rather oriental in his style of praising his brother, but much may be owing to his feelings upon such a subject as that of his brother’s merits undergoing a slighting review.

Poor Hoppner, the painter, is dead. Public attention and sympathy has been fixed by the sudden and mysterious disappearance of Mr. Eden,[343] who left his father’s house in Old Palace Yard on Friday eve., having previously told his servant he should return in an hour, and from that time to this, an interval of ten days has elapsed without any tidings. A man was seen on that Friday, at 9 o’clock, scrambling upon the ice on the Thames, who, upon being called upon to stop, rushed on and plunged into the stream. Poor young man, he was to all appearance the last person in the world likely to lay violent hands upon himself.

_Sunday, 28th Jan., 1810, Pall Mall._--A belief afloat that Prince Stahremberg is the bearer of an offer of peace from Ld. Wellesley to Napoleon. He went yesterday to Paris.

Lds. Thanet, Erskine, Sr. Philip Francis, and Don Domingo de Souza[344] dined.

* * * * *

[Sidenote: WINDHAM’S WILL]

_June, 1810._--It appears that Windham from the period of his leaving College had kept a diary; the last entry was on the day the operation was decided.[345] He says: ‘This day sentence has been passed upon me,’ It fills 15 vols. in 4to., and according to his will is annexed as an heirloom to the proprietor of Fellbrigge; so in case of failure of issue in Capt. Lukin, it will fall into the hands of the Egremont family. A curious instance of weakness in Windham, and one that probably never would have been drawn forth, but for the feelings stirred up by the French Revolution: he has put Lord Egremont into the entail of his estate, treating him as a relation. During his life the relationship was never claimed, and certainly not admitted, either by him or by Ld. Egremont; the mode of spelling the name is quite different. He left six thousand pr. ann., at least, to his wife, who has most indecorously exposed to public sale all his books and common pamphlets; the latter especially are scribbled over entirely with his own observations on the margin. These have been bought up by the booksellers, and will hereafter be sold as immensely valuable from possessing his notes. There is a pamphlet of Sr. S. Romilly’s upon the state of Criminal Law, which is entirely written over by W.; and the strictures intended merely for himself to reply to in the H. of Commons are most likely not calculated to please Romilly, or indeed could they have been designed for his eye.

When Perceval proposed last year, 1809, to Lord Grenville and Grey to form a _part_ of his Administration, some private correspondence in consequence of this overture took place between these Lords. They agreed perfectly in the propriety of rejecting the terms as proposed, but as it was just possible they might be addressed again upon a similar occasion, they discussed the state of their own views, &c. Ld. Grenville told Grey that whenever they came into office, and were enabled to make the concessions deemed necessary to the Irish Catholics, he intended to propose that his brother, Lord Buckingham, should be the person sent over; that he had always contributed so disinterestedly to the support of the party, that as it was his wish to go, he considered him entitled to it. This hint was not relished, nor was it combated; but the Grenvilles are great graspers and encroachers.

At the Installation[346] Lord Grenville promised the heads of Houses to supply them with venison, having been promised by his brother 15 brace. A few days before the festival Ld. B. sent to say he could not furnish any venison, and but for the good nature of private friends he would not have been able to fulfil his engagement. The Duke of Bedford told me this, and was one of the persons applied to, and gave 4 brace. Ld. B. is envious of his brother, and enjoys his feeling any mortification.

* * * * *

[Sidenote: THE LAKE COUNTRY]

We made an excursion for seven weeks to the North in order to amuse Henry, and try the effect of change of air, as he was not well. We went by Derby and Lancashire to Appleby Castle, Ld. Thanet’s. We stayed there a few days in order that Ld. H. might get some fishing; from thence we went to the Lake of Ullswater, and dined at Patterdale. Returned and slept at Penrith.

At Keswick we saw Southey, who was very agreeable; he is just about publishing two epic poems. Windermere is the pleasantest and most agreeable of all the Lakes to my taste. Mr. Dumont was of our party. We went rather impromptu to Edinburgh, by the Kelso road, to see Melrose Abbey. Kelso is a charmingly situated town and exceedingly pretty. Melrose Abbey disappointed me greatly, especially after John Clerk’s praise, who described it as the finest remains of the richly wrought Gothic in the Island. I did not mind Walter Scott’s poetry, but was very considerably chagrined at its being so very inferior to many even in England. The high roads now making in Scotland are very characteristic of the nation; they are _scientific and thrifty_, for they are upon good principles, but are excessively dangerous and alarming from the parsimony with which they are executed. They are contrived to go upon the mountains like terraces or ledges, so that the up and down is avoided, but then they are rather narrow, and there is not the smallest parapet or any protection which intervenes between the poor traveller and the deep valley below.

We remained only two days at Edinbro’. During that time poor Lady Rosslyn[347] died unexpectedly at Rockville. We dined one day with Mr. Clerk,[348] and were visited by the few persons then in town--Jeffrey, Murray, &c. We went to Dunbar; then to Howick; and spent a couple of days with Sydney Smith at Heslington, near York. I went to the Roman Catholic convent in York, to visit the daughters of Mr. Gordon, of Xeres; they seemed dejected and apprehensive that the state of Spain would prevent them from joining their family.

We made a deviation from the North road to see Lincoln Minster. We were repaid for the inconvenience of a very bad road and without exception the worst inn in England, as the Cathedral is very curious and magnificent. It is not so large as that of York, but the workmanship is much richer. I was startled when I entered the Cathedral at York; I could scarcely credit that it was the identical building which appeared spacious and lofty formerly, my eye having been recently so accustomed to the Cathedral at Seville which is about three times the size of York. At York the centre aisle is wide, but the two side aisles are narrow and low, whereas at Seville there are five aisles all equally wide and lofty, and _beyond_ are large side chapels (at York there are none).

From Lincoln we went through Spalding to Peterboro’; I asked at Spalding how far off it was to the Fens. The postmaster replied that there were no fens in Lincolnshire now, and that geese were full as scarce as in Middlesex or elsewhere. I think it impossible he can be correct, for, tho’ draining may do much, yet I remember such dykes and embankments against the waters then covered with flocks of geese, about 23 years ago, that it cannot be possible those waters can have been carried off, the bottom made sound, and put into tillage; about Boston and Crowland I meant. Peterboro’ Cathedral has a beautiful façade; the inside is not worth much. Katherine of Arragon and Queen Mary of Scotland[349] are buried there.

We returned here[350] on August 2, and found all well; the library wall rebuilt, but the house not in a condition for our reception. Accordingly we are going off in a few days to inhabit the Govt. House at Portsmouth, which Genl. Fox has lent most kindly to us.[351]

[Sidenote: GENERAL FERGUSON]

The few days we have been here we have seen Tom Sheridan and his wife, Ld. Erskine, D. of Argyle, Ld. Robt., Gen. Tupper, Mr. Whishaw, Kemble, Gen. Fox, Caroline Fox. I went one night to the Haymarket and saw the _Iron Chest_. General Ferguson[352] has been compelled to leave Cadiz on acct. of his health; he is afflicted with a liver complaint which is always aggravated in a hot climate. He acted the part of a real friend to our dear boy,[353] he went out with him in the _Lively_, and assumed a parental authority over him. He also, upon arriving at Cadiz, removed him from that ship, and placed him with Capt. Codrington of the _Blake_, where he now is, and is gone up to Minorca to escort the Spanish ships from Cadiz thither. He confirms the stories of the desertions from the French armies, and himself conversed with _three_ native-born Frenchmen, who had deserted from want of pay and want of food, the most pressing want.

On Thursday, -- August, left home for Portsmouth. Henry, &c., accompanied us; the girls were to follow a few days later. Mr. Dumont came with us; we slept at Liphook, and reached Portsmouth on Friday. The Government House is a very large, rambling habitation, and was formerly a Cistercian convent.[354] From the interior arrangement of the rooms, and very inconvenient distribution of space, one can still trace its monastic origin. The conventual church, now converted into the garrison chapel, communicates with the great apartment, and access is immediate into the tribune. In that church Charles the Second married the Infanta of Portugal.

[Sidenote: CAPTAIN MOORE]

The _séjour_ of this place has little to recommend it in the way of drives or walks, as the confinement of a garrison town is inconvenient for either, and indeed the whole neighbourhood more or less partakes of the stir and din of war. We see a few naval and military persons. General Whetham, the Lt.-Governor, a sprightly man, who talks good French, and has a superficial smattering of the light reading in that language; he was wounded in Flanders, and is a great favourite upon the Terrace at Windsor. Capt. G. Moore,[355] the brother of the General, whose good sense seems to have been bestowed in a fair division upon him, is a pleasing, well-informed, manly, gentlemanlike person. They are an affectionate, united family, and full of amiable qualities; he alluded to Sir John with feeling, his eyes were full of tears when in the course of some conversation he mentioned the narrative written by his brother James.[356] He told me that had the General lived to return and lay aside his command, it was his opinion that an explanation must have taken place with Frere, as the gross personality and insulting language in his correspondence must have been apologised for or determined(?) in some decisive manner. Capt. Moore was at Lisbon when the Court embarked for the _Brésils_, and accompanied the Portuguese squadron thither, having on board many of the attendants and dependants of the Prince Regent.