Chapter VII: Part 7

You will now require just the same kind of packet of gunpowder as was spoken of under the head of serpent mines. This packet may contain an ounce and a-half of common powder. Put it into the bottom of the mortar, flat side upwards; then put a piece of thin paper, smeared over with meal-powder paste, meal-powder side upwards, and then proceed to put in your crackers in the following way:—You will find two dozen a very good number for cracker mortars of this size. I frequently use _three_ dozen, but this is not necessary. I will suppose that you have determined to use two dozen. Take _six_ of these; pack them side by side, so that their primed mouths are arranged in a line; tie them in this position with a piece of cotton; make four of these packets containing six crackers; now put them into the mortar in such a way _that the projecting pieces of quick-match are all turned inwards_, as shown in the drawing at the page of illustrations. The crackers will, of course, all be lying on their sides. Now down the centre of this arrangement lay three or four pieces of bare quick-match, which shall be in immediate juxtaposition to all the primed mouths of the crackers, and which shall reach down to the meal-powder pad. Thus you will infallibly insure the lighting of all the crackers before the charge of powder takes fire at the bottom.

Over this mine, and as an introduction to it, you can, if you please, place a fountain-case, as with the serpent mines, gluing it into the centre of the lid of the mortar, and connecting its tail end with the crackers below.

But the most useful plan for exhibition purposes is to have an _iron_ mortar for these mines, made about two inches and three-quarters square (interior measurement), and six inches in depth. Iron mortars should have a very substantial foot of wood. If an iron mortar is employed for cracker mines you must have a wooden former made, about two and a-half inches square and six inches long, on which to form the paper bags that are to contain your powder, crackers, &c. The arrangement of the contents of these bags is precisely the same as that recommended for the filling of the _pasteboard_ cracker mortars, except that of course a piece of quick-match must be left projecting from the top of the bag by which the whole is fired. Take especial notice that after placing the parcels of crackers in the bags, as directed above, the cotton which binds each parcel must be cut so as to liberate the crackers, otherwise you will have four parcels of crackers instead of twenty-four crackers making their appearance at the explosion of your mine.

In the page of illustrations, fig. 108 represents a section of a pasteboard serpent mine; _aa_, the fountain-case; _bb_, the serpents; _c_, the meal-pad; _d_, the packet of powder; _ee_, the match passing from the fountain-case through the bundle of serpents; _f_, the wooden block at the bottom of the mortar; _gg_, the lid. 109 represents an iron serpent mortar. 110 represents a mine bag for firing from an iron mortar. 111 represents the arrangement of crackers in a cracker mine. The drawing will be found about the right size, and crackers packed in this manner cannot fail to light.

FIVE-POINTED STAR.

69. The cases are made upon the same “former” on which the quarter-pound rocket-cases are rolled. They consist of a piece of 70-lb. brown paper and a piece of imperial board. The sheet of brown paper is cut into strips, as represented in the annexed diagram, by which it will be seen that each sheet furnishes enough paper for _six_ cases. The imperial board should be divided, as shown in the following sketch, 112, into twelve equal strips—thus: so that two sheets of 70-lb. brown paper and one of imperial board will give material for one dozen cases for five-pointed stars. The paper and board must be well pasted, and the rolling board used unsparingly, as cases for this purpose cannot be too strong and hard.

Fig. 112.
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Fig. 113.
]

The common plan for filling these cases with composition is simply to put them on the same settle on which quarter-pound tourbillons are rammed, and to drive into the lower end of them about half-an-inch of clay, very solid, and to ram in the composition upon this until it rises to such a height as will enable the star to burn as long as the piece or pieces with which it has to keep time. But I think a much better plan is the following:—Procure a turned drift of box, or some _hard_ wood, about five inches long in its straight part, with an end as represented at fig. 113. Put a ladleful of clay into the case when it is upon the settle (the ladle used for filling quarter-pound rockets is meant), and drive down the clay with the conical end of the drift, by which means you will have a hollow clay cone formed in the end of the case. Now ram in your composition, which may be made from either of the following formulas:—

FOR FIVE-POINTED
STARS.
No. 1.
Nitre 16 parts.
Sulphur 6 „
Meal-powder 4 „
Antimony 2 „

No. 2.
Nitre 16 „
Sulphur 8 „
Meal-powder 6 „
Antimony 4 „

No. 3.
Nitre 16 „
Sulphur 8 „
Meal-powder 4 „
Antimony 3 „

It will be best to decide first of all which of these compositions you prefer, and to keep to that, remembering that five-pointed stars are never used singly, but only as parts of compound pieces, and that, in order to produce their proper effect, they ought to last just for a certain time and no longer. By keeping to _one_ of the compositions given above, you will be able to time them better. I cannot give any directions for the quantity of composition to be driven in—this must depend entirely upon the part which it is intended that the stars should play in the piece for which they are made, and can be decided only by actual experiment. The composition will not require to be driven very hard.

You will by this time be beginning to wonder how a case filled in the manner described above is to make a five-pointed star. Well, there is no great difficulty in achieving this end. Provide yourself with a gimlet which will make a hole about one-eighth of an inch in diameter, or rather more; also with a pair of compasses the legs of which can be secured at certain distances from one another. Let the points of the compasses be exactly such a distance apart that they will represent _one-fifth of the exterior circumference_ of the case—that is, so that they will exactly go round the case in five strides, finishing at the point from whence they started. When you have thus adjusted your compasses, make them perform their five-stage journey _round that part of the case inside which is the hollow clay cone_, about half-way between the point and base of the cone, and wherever the points of the compasses touch, there make a mark by pressing the point into the case. You will thus have divided the circumference of the case into five equal parts. Now at each mark made by the compasses bore a hole gently with your gimlet, which should be a sharp one, taking care that you only bore through the case and the clay, and disturb the composition as little as possible. In order to prime the case, fill the hollow at the end of it, which was occupied by the top of the settle, with wetted meal-powder, and when this is dry, pass across it a piece of bare quick-match, the ends of which should be long enough to be tucked into two of the gimlet-holes, and which will convey the fire from the priming to the composition inside the case. Then cut some pieces of thin paper (such as double crown) three inches wide, and long enough to go twice round the case, and paste one of these on the case just below the gimlet-holes, so that the paper covers up gimlet-holes, priming, match, and all, and projects an inch and a-half or thereabouts beyond the primed end of the case. This projecting paper serves to contain the end of the encased match which is to connect the five-pointed star with other pieces.

The best method of fixing these stars on the frames for which they are required is to have projecting from the frames wooden pegs of such a size that the unprimed end of the case can be squeezed tightly over them or glued on to them. I should have stated that when the proper amount of composition has been inserted, a little clay should be driven on the top of it for the sake of security, and there should be not less than three-quarters of an inch of unoccupied case beyond this clay. Into this unoccupied space the pegs mentioned above should be fixed.

Five-pointed star-cases must, of course, be placed horizontally, with their primed end towards the spectators; and when fired they will, or should, present an appearance of this kind, the burning composition protruding its tongues of white flame through the holes made by the gimlet.

In your anxiety not to disturb the composition with the gimlet, do not run into the other extreme, and leave the _clay unbored_. And see that there is sufficient clay beyond the point of the cone to prevent the combustion from finding vent there.

Fig. 114.
]

The object of the conical clay head to the case is that the fire may not burn the holes larger. If the holes were simply bored through the paper case they would be burnt much larger than they were originally made. Nevertheless, if it be thought too troublesome to make the hollow clay cones, as I have suggested, a very fair five-pointed star may be made by driving in a flat end of clay, and boring just below it into the composition.

It is possible to make the cases for five-pointed stars of iron tubing, such as ordinary gas-tubing, about the same size in bore as the paper cases, the manufacture of which I have described above. Half-a-dozen iron cases, open at both ends, with the five holes drilled at equal distances round their circumference, and about an inch from the end, will be found very handy, because they are indestructible, can be used any number of times, and after use have only to be laid in hot water, and they can be washed as clean as when new. It will be necessary to tie something round the holes while the composition is being driven in. The ends, of course, are made with clay.

But let me here caution you to be very careful in the use of iron cases. If quicker compositions than those given above are employed, there is danger of the case being blown to pieces. If this should happen it would result in the most serious injury to any one who might be in its way. And therefore it will be advisable, if you think of using iron cases, to fire your experimental five-pointed star at a great distance from where you stand, taking care that no one is near it. It will probably go well; but there is a risk attending the use of iron cases which makes them less safe than those made of paper and board.

I trust that these directions will enable you to prepare a satisfactory five-pointed star.

It now remains for me to furnish you with some designs for exhibition pieces, and to describe the manner in which they are to be made up.

EXHIBITION PIECES.

70. If it be thought desirable to have ready a variety of frames which can be fitted up at a moderately short notice, some of the following will be found useful, and capable of being mounted with fireworks in many effective ways:—

In the first place there is the large vertical wheel, the frame of which is described at fig. 115. This should be not less than four feet in diameter, and should turn on an iron spindle made of three-eighths of an inch rod. The following is a good useful sort of spindle for large wheels (fig. 116), being very steady and easily fixed to your post. _AA_ represents the post, which should be ten feet out of the ground. _BB_ represents the spindle, which has an iron collar at _C_ and a large thumbscrew at _DD_. The collar is fixed to the spindle, and is placed against the face of the post. The thumbscrew is screwed up tightly at the back of the post, and keeps the spindle firmly in position. The other end of the spindle may be “tapped” for a short distance, and have a small “nut” to fit it, in order to keep the wheel from working off; this, however, is not of much importance, as a piece of cork tied on will do as well.

Fig. 116.
]

The wheel should have a nave of hard wood, through which a hole is bored to admit the spindle. And in the case of all vertical wheels, it should be borne in mind that they will revolve much more lightly and easily if the spindle does not touch the wood of the nave at all, but works through two iron or brass plates, fastened one on the back and the other on the front of the nave, and having holes drilled in them of a size proper to admit the spindle without too much “play.” The working of a large wheel will be very much more satisfactory if this plan be adopted, and the wood of the nave be not allowed to touch the spindle at all.

For a wheel of four feet in diameter there should be six spokes, to the ends of which is fastened a strong ash or beechwood hoop. There should also be another wooden hoop six inches nearer to the centre of the wheel, as is shown at fig. 115. The pieces with which I have there represented the wheel as fitted up are as follow:—

_a a a a_ are twelve brilliant reported “fixed cases,” which, as will be remembered, are cases having an interior bore of seven-sixteenths of an inch, and reported with a gun-charge of powder at their end, and filled with brilliant fire. Each of these is fastened to the two outer wooden hoops at a slight angle, and all their mouths are connected with quick-match, the end of which is to be brought to the bottom of the wheel and tied to the post which carries the wheel. This tying will have the effect of steadying the wheel until the time arrives for firing the fixed cases.

_B B B B_ are six triangle wheels, the turning cases of which are filled with brilliant fire, and carrying each a colour. The cases need not be larger in diameter than the “fixed cases” mentioned above. In my sketch I have described them as _double_ triangle wheels, but the artist must decide for himself whether they shall be double or single—_i.e._, whether they shall have six or three cases apiece.

In front of the nave of the wheel is placed a much smaller vertical wheel (_C_) on the same spindle. This may be made to carry six turning cases of brilliant fire, and as many colours as you think proper. The cases may be made to burn singly or doubly (_i.e._, two cases at a time upon opposite sides of the wheel).

Supposing the wheel represented at fig. 115 to be mounted with one smaller central vertical wheel, with six cases and colours, six small brilliant single triangle wheels with colours and twelve brilliant reported fixed cases, the way in which it should be fired is this:—Connect together by quick-match all the single triangle wheels, and let the end of this match be secured where it can be found with readiness, and where also it is out of the reach of sparks. I will now suppose the cases on the central wheel to burn singly, in which case fire—

1stly. The central wheel, and when three of its cases are all but burnt out, put your portfire to—

2ndly. The match which is to start the six single triangle wheels. When these are half burned out (_i.e._, when about a case and a-half is consumed on each) fire—

3rdly. The quick-match which connects all the reported fixed cases on the circumference of the wheel, and you will then have a revolving piece of fire nearly twelve feet in diameter, of which the sketch at fig. 119 is intended to give you an idea.

The framework of this piece is, as you will at once see, capable of being fitted up in many other ways. For instance, instead of triangle wheels, you might use Saxons; instead of a central illuminated vertical wheel, you might have a six-pointed star in white lance-work. In fact, there is hardly any limit to the variety which might be produced if the artist will only acquaint himself with the value and adaptability of the single pieces which are treated of in the former numbers of this series of papers.

We now come to the last page of illustrations, where is described a set-piece known by the name of the lattice-work piece (fig. 121). This may be made either with 24 brilliant reported fixed cases and 6 coloured fires, or with 36 fixed cases and 9 coloured fires. The sketch is made to represent the arrangement as it should be for 36 cases and 9 colours. If used with only 24 cases, and 6 colours or five-pointed stars, it will be _a large piece_, and quite effective enough for a display of ordinary pretensions. It is made by fastening brilliant reported fixed cases to squares of wood, and fixing these squares at equal distances from one another, so that the fire from the cases represents lattice-work.

Provide for this purpose as many squares as you require, half-an-inch thick and seven inches square. To each of these fasten the reported ends of four brilliant fixed cases by boring holes on each side of the cases through the wood, and fastening them by means of wire or string in their places. In the centre of each square fasten either a coloured case or a five-pointed star. Each square, when mounted, will be like the adjoining sketch.

Fig. 120.
]

The distance from one another at which these wooden squares should be fixed must depend upon individual taste; you must remember that the farther apart you fix your upright posts in the ground the longer the posts must be, as you cannot spread the piece sideways without increasing its height, A good distance apart for the posts will be three feet six inches. If this distance be observed, and nine squares are used, you will require posts at least fifteen feet out of the ground; but if six squares are used, which I think you will find effective enough, posts twelve feet out of the ground will be sufficiently high. At fig. 121 you will see that, for additional effect, I have placed at the top of the two side-posts large gerbes. I should make these _certainly not smaller than the quarter-pound size_, and as long as the fixed cases employed. Fill them with—

Meal-powder 3 parts.
Iron borings 1 part.

These gerbes must be connected by quick-match with the squares which are on the same posts with them. At the top of the central post I should place either a “simple horizontal” or a “capricious” wheel, the manufacture of which I described in my paper on wheels. The capricious wheel will be the most effective.

In order to prepare the piece for firing, bring all the pieces of match which are to convey the fire to the brilliant squares and gerbes to a point in the centre of the piece, leaving them long enough to be tied together in a bundle round _the case_ of the match. Beyond the point where the match-cases are all tied together leave at least six inches of each quick-match bare, and tie these bare pieces together in one or two places. Unless this precaution is taken, some of your squares will have a good chance of not being fired at all. But by this means they can hardly misfire. The object is to give all the bare-ends of match time to take fire _before the fire reaches the covered part of any_ of the matches.

Fig. 121 will give you some idea as to what the lattice-work piece should look like before it is fired. To fire it, light first the piece of quick-match which hangs from the capricious wheel. When _four_ cases on this wheel are burnt out, light the collected ends of quick-match in the centre of the lattice-work. _These ends must on no account be exposed until they are to be fired_; therefore some paper must be wrapped round them, which can easily be removed. At once your brilliant cases, stars, and gerbes will be ignited, and will burn while the remainder (which is the best part) of the capricious wheel is going through its revolutions. You will then, if all goes right, have such a piece as is represented at fig. 122.

My next illustration shows a simple but beautiful piece, having for its centre a wheel such as I have described in my papers on coloured lights, lances, &c., and consisting of four double triangles executed in white lances, and a large four-pointed star in brilliant fire. Fig. 123 represents the framework mounted, as it appears before firing. This framework is simply four arms, made of deal, and fastened into a solid centre; the arms may be five feet long. At the extremities of these arms are fastened four double triangles made of deal lath or any light material. Upon these little frames fasten white lances, by driving in short pieces of iron-wire into the woodwork, and after boring the closed end of the lances with a very small awl, sticking a lance upon every wire-pin with the mixture of glue and red lead recommended in former papers. Then clothe the double triangles with quick-match in the usual way, and connect them all. In the next place fasten on each of the arms, at a suitable distance from the centre of the piece, two reported brilliant fixed cases, in the manner indicated in the sketch; clothe these with match, and connect them.

For the centre of the piece take the wheel with dangling colours, explained under the head of coloured lights, and fit it up carefully. The piece will thus be ready to be fixed to its post. To do this you will require an iron spindle something like the one I have recommended for the four-feet vertical wheel, with this difference—that the framework of our present piece must not revolve, but remain stationary; the centre wheel alone is to revolve, which it will do well enough on such a spindle. But remember that all vertical wheels used as centres to large pieces _must be brought well forward before the rest of the piece_, otherwise the sparks from them will fire the other parts before their time.

I will now suppose that you have the piece represented at fig. 123. You must first start the central wheel, which should be connected by match with the triangles at the extremities of the arms. These will then burn together until a case and a-half of the central wheel is consumed, at which time strike in the eight brilliant fixed cases, and this done your piece will take the form represented at fig. 124.

We now come to the last of my designs, by which is represented at fig. 117 a large set-piece worthy of proving a finale to any exhibition, and at the same time by no means difficult of preparation.

The framework of this piece consists of a solid wooden centre, into which are secured six arms made of deal, in such a manner that they are like the spokes of a large wheel in their arrangement. The arms for this piece, and for that represented in fig. 123, should be five feet in length, two inches in width, and an inch full in thickness. For the sake of economy I think you will find it well to make one centre do for both these pieces, by having grooves cut in one side of it to hold six arms, and in the other side for four, as you would never require _both_ these pieces in the same exhibition. The grooves in my framework are about half-an-inch deep on each side of a circular flat centre of oak, two inches in thickness and twelve inches in diameter; they impart greater steadiness to the arms than could be gained by screws alone. So much for the framework, which you will see is, when put together, ten feet in diameter, and can always be taken to pieces for the purpose of economising space. If you have six arms made, you can use either four or all of them at pleasure.

Now for the pieces with which this framework is to be mounted.

In the centre there should be a large double triangle frame, mounted with white or coloured lances. The six laths of which this framework should be made should be each three feet six inches long, and about five-eighths of an inch square. The lances placed upon them should be not less than three and a-half inches apart. These must all, of course, be connected by quick-match. The six angles of the double triangle should rest upon the six spokes of the framework of the piece. At a distance of an inch or two outside each angle should be fixed a five-pointed star, and close to it two brilliant reported fixed cases, which must be connected by quick-match, and fastened at such an angle with the framework that their fires may meet at a point between the six triangle wheels, which, lastly, are to be placed at the extremities of the long arms. The cases on these wheels are to be filled with brilliant fire, and each wheel is to carry a colour in its centre.

To fire this piece begin with the central double triangle, and when this is well-lighted, fire the six triangle wheels and five-pointed stars, and when one case of the triangle wheels is consumed, fire the twelve brilliant fixed cases, and your piece will be of the shape given at fig. 118.

With this piece I close my “Papers on Pyrotechny.” I trust that I have left nothing unsaid which could make the directions given for these pieces more clear, and I hope that many an amateur will soon have arrived at such a state of proficiency as will enable him not only to prepare such pieces as these, but any variation upon them. No piece should be used as a finale to any exhibition unaccompanied by two batteries of Roman candles containing coloured stars. These so-called “batteries” consist simply of four, six, or any number of Roman candles fastened to upright posts at such an angle that they may throw their stars over the centre of the piece from each side of it. Any number of serpent or cracker mines that can be brought to bear while the finale is in _full_ force will greatly enhance the effect, if fired from behind it.

In conclusion I believe that, in any village even, were any one to manifest a desire to become a successful pyrotechnist, and to interest his intelligent neighbours in his adopted art, he would find that in most cases they would lend a hand, and show an activity in the preparation of a public exhibition to a degree which no one who has not tried the experiment would anticipate. Many a long evening might be shortened by discussion with the artisans of the place as to the best mode of making what is usually known as a “grand flare-up” for Christmas Eve or New Year’s Eve. And if I am not very much mistaken, such a discussion would prove at least as interesting to any inquiring mind as the very desultory and questionable source of information commonly called Penny Readings, at which it is the fashion to spoil so much good writing by bad reading, and so much good music by bad singing. It cannot but be evident that any exhibition of fireworks in a place must be to a certain extent public; all who can will do their utmost to get their chins above the level of the walls or fences which are intended to make any exhibition private; and quite rightly too, in my opinion. Though no longer a boy, I should do the same now, unless I had reason to believe that the “grand display” was about to consist of a certain number of dozens of squibs, crackers, and pin wheels, fired as fast as circumstances will allow, considering the number of times that the lantern is blown out by the incautious application of one or other of the above-named combustibles to its flame. In the case of _experiments_, which _must_ be made before every exhibition, I think that the more private one can keep _them_ the better. But if there is to be an exhibition, why not let every one who can, not only see it, but give assistance in its preparation? You will by this means not only insure a much more real interest in your success, but gain the satisfaction of having proved to many an intelligent villager the important truth that he is capable of doing something for which he had never suspected the slightest capability.

These hints I throw out merely as suggestions. They have been acted on with the most satisfactory results, and I feel sure that they may be turned to account; but everything will depend, of course, upon the manner in which the plan is worked out, and the spirit felt by those whose aid it is proposed to engage. I need only add to these remarks that if it can be shown that my work has done anything towards making pyrotechnic recreation more general, reasonable, and possible than it has hitherto been, I shall consider myself amply rewarded for the time that has been spent (much to my own gratification) in making and recording the results of my experiments.

THE END.

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TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES

● Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained. ● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.