Chapter III: Part 3

It is advisable not to prepare your coloured stars until you are ready to use them, because, unless protected from damp in the most careful manner, they will lose some of their beauty, and you will thereby not be making the most of them. They may appear to you expensive things to prepare, but you must bear in mind that _two or three rockets containing them_ are quite sufficient for any one exhibition such as I suppose you will be likely to give.

Remember that the red, green, and blue or purple stars may be used _mixed_ with a very beautiful effect. The purple and golden, or purple and crimson, or rose, will also form excellent contrasts.

GOLDEN RAINS.

25. One species of rocket decoration, the manufacture of which I proposed to describe, remains yet to be considered. It is called _Golden Rain_, and with the details of its preparation we will conclude our subject of rocket-making.

Fig. 32.
]

Fig. 33.
]

Golden rains are made in the following manner:—Procure a piece of brass rod (I always prefer brass for formers, because it is not liable to rust, as is iron or steel), the diameter of which is 3–16ths of an inch, or rather less. The length of the former may be from 6 to 8 inches. You will now require some thin brown or cartridge paper, of which to make your cases. Cut this paper into short strips, about 2 inches wide, and long enough, when wrapped round the former, to make a case whose external diameter should be a quarter of an inch, or rather more. The former should have a cup-shaped, hollow cut in one of its ends, into which the paper may be turned, to form a closed end to your little cases. Paste your strips of cartridge paper all over, and also rub some paste on the former. Now, having turned back one end of your strips—(figs. 32 and 33)—roll it round the former, beginning in the manner here sketched, so that, instead of rolling a single edge of paper round the former, you are rolling a double one. The advantages of this plan for making cases will be more easy for you to see than for me to describe. I may state, however, that you insure, by adopting it, a very close and even fit of the case to the former; you secure the inner edge of the paper from coming unfastened, and you are much more certain that your strips will roll up straightly. This plan may be adopted, if you please, for all cases. I think it is, on the whole, the safest and best. The paste which you rubbed on the former will enable you to draw it out from the case without tearing or injury. But before removing the former entirely, draw it out only so far as to leave its cupped end a quarter of an inch inside one of the ends of your case—so far, in fact, that a quarter of an inch of your case remains unoccupied by the former. Now pinch in the paper that projects beyond the former, and drive it down with a tap upon your pasting slab, so that the twisted end is pressed into the cup of the former. By this means you will have a neat and secure end to your cases, which may be dipped afterwards into warm size or glue. If a little red lead be mixed with this size, it will solidify much more rapidly. This dipping the ends of the cases into size should not be done until they are dry from the paste.

Now we come to the filling of these little cases; and for this purpose you will require a simple apparatus, known among pyrotechnists as “the funnel and wire.” The funnel is usually made of tin, and has at its mouth a short tube, about a quarter of an inch long, the exterior diameter of which is equal to the exterior diameter of your brass former, so that it will exactly fit into the mouth of your golden rain cases. The wire should be of steel, about 1–10th of an inch in diameter, and at least 6 inches long. For convenience in working, it should have a small wooden handle. The handles sold in the tool-shops for engravers’ tools will answer very well. This is the whole of the apparatus required for making golden rains.

The composition employed for filling the cases is the following:—

GOLDEN RAINS.
Meal-powder 6 parts.
Nitre 1 part.
Fine charcoal 2 parts.

Or,

Meal-powder 8 „
Fine charcoal 3 „

Let these ingredients be very intimately mixed. When the composition is ready for use, place the tubular mouth of the funnel in the mouth of one of your little cases; and then put the wire, through the neck of the funnel, down to the bottom of the case. Next, half fill the funnel with one of the above compositions. Now, steadying the case with one hand, raise the wire a little by its handle, and drive it down again. Continue to repeat this operation, giving the wire a succession of short, rapid strokes. You may give about fifteen strokes in five seconds. Each time the wire is raised, a small quantity of the composition falls round it into the case, and the descent of the wire has the effect of driving the composition firmly and compactly into its place. When the case is charged, the funnel must be removed, and the space that was occupied by its nozzle filled with gunpowder paste—gunpowder, that is, or meal-powder moistened with gum-water. This will prevent the composition from being shaken out of the cases, and at the same time forms the best method of priming them. Take care that this paste is pressed well into the mouth of the cases, and fills them.

PORTFIRES.

26. The “funnel and wire” operation is one to which the pyrotechnist has recourse for many purposes, one of which I may as well mention here, as it may fairly be said to come under the head of rocket manufacture—I mean the preparation of _portfires_.

The portfires, used for firing rockets and fireworks, are generally made in the following manner:—The former for this purpose should be of brass, and not less than a quarter of an inch in diameter, and the wire for filling them not less than one-eighth of an inch. Portfire cases are usually made very thin, three rounds of such paper as that on which the _Times_ is printed being quite sufficient. The cases are prepared in precisely the same manner as that described for golden rains, and are also primed in the same way. The following is the composition which I use for

PORTFIRES.
Nitre 6 parts
Sulphur 2 „
Meal-powder 1 part.

Portfires may be made of almost any size, according to the purpose for which they are intended. You will find three-eighths of an inch quite large enough for the inner diameter of any that you are likely to require. If they are to be used for firing exhibitions, you will find that 8 to 12 inches will be a convenient length. The funnel and wire apparatus is so cheaply made that you will be able to provide yourself with two or three sets of these tools, of different sizes, so as to answer any purpose.

We are thus brought to the conclusion of the subject of rockets and their accessories. I trust that I have made my method of operation sufficiently intelligible and plain. The main difficulty that meets any one who attempts to describe a delicate and particular system of working lies in the fact that when one is thoroughly conversant with his subject, particularly in all its minutiæ, he is very liable to overlook, or to treat as unimportant in his directions, some point because it appears trifling to him, and is never likely to be forgotten in _his_ practice, the involuntary omission of which, however, may be a frequent cause of failure in the hands of others. I have tried throughout to evade any possibility of misunderstanding; and if I have been too diffuse, it has been solely from the desire to avoid that which has certainly been the fault of almost all the treatises on pyrotechny that I have seen, viz., indistinctness arising from insufficiency of detail.

Our next subject shall be that of

ROMAN CANDLES.

27. Fireworks of this species are exceedingly beautiful and effective, especially when made with coloured stars, and fired in numbers. Their manufacture is somewhat difficult, but the difficulty is one well worth overcoming. I made a considerable series of experiments before I produced a Roman candle that answered my expectations. At last, however, I hit upon a plan which has never since failed in my hands, and I think that, if I can succeed in making my meaning understood, and you will undertake to follow my directions closely, you will find my plan a good one.

There are several conditions upon which success depends, and which it will be as well to enumerate. A poor Roman candle is not worth making. If you wish to produce one that will satisfy you, remember—

1st.—That you must have a composition to burn in the intervals between the stars, which will produce as good an effect when the Roman candle is almost spent as when first lighted—in fact, which will throw a jet of fire uniformly good throughout.

2nd.—That your stars must be hard enough to resist the pressure of the drift with which you consolidate the composition.

3rd.—That the stars must be of tolerably rapid combustion, otherwise they will not be ignited before they are blown into the air.

4th.—That the charges of powder for blowing the stars must be regulated to a great nicety. If too small, they will not throw them high enough; if too large, they may burst the case, or spoil the intended effect of the stars, or so disturb the composition below them that three or four of the stars will be fired in rapid succession, or almost instantaneously.

Now, the first thing to be considered is the size of which Roman candles are to be made. I make them of _one_ size only, for I have found that it is much more convenient to have but one size of stars to prepare, and one size of cases to roll, and one scale of powder-charge to remember, than to run the risk of confusion by having to think of various sizes. Besides, all the effect that these pieces are capable of can be produced by my one size. This size is _that called the 2-oz. Roman candle_. The former for the cases must be five-eighths of an inch in diameter, and should be 18 inches long.

These fireworks require rather a large amount of paper and imperial board for the manufacture of their cases. A good stout case may be made as follows:—Cut your sheets of 70-lb. brown paper into halves, and your sheets of imperial board into six equal pieces. One of these pieces, with one half-sheet of 70-lb. paper, will make one case. Paste your pieces of imperial board _all over_, as well as the sheets of paper. Rub some paste on your former, and proceed to roll a piece of the pasted board tightly and smoothly round the former till all but about two inches of it is rolled. Then take the pasted half-sheet of brown paper, and roll this upon the imperial board in the manner described for making golden rain cases. The method there given is of especial value when the cases that you are making are of considerable length, because it enables you to roll the paper and board very straightly, which cannot be done so easily by any other means that I know of. The cases thus made will be pasted throughout and can be easily removed from off the former. They will be about 14 inches long, which is a very good size. You can, of course, make them shorter for experiments, but you will find the above size not too large for exhibition purposes. I do not think it will do to make the cases very much thinner than I have directed, but a few experiments will decide what length or thickness of case succeeds best in your hands. I have given you my size, which I have no wish to alter.

Now the next thing to be done is to prepare the stars. These are made in a tubular mould, the exact size of which I have sketched in the page of illustrations, Fig. 37. But before giving you directions for making these stars, I may as well furnish you with a few formulas for their composition.

WHITE ROMAN-CANDLE STARS.

28. The brilliant stars may be made of the same composition as that given you for rocket stars of that kind. If, however, you require a _more white_ star, use the following:—

WHITE ROMAN-CANDLE STARS.
Composition No. 1.
Nitre 48 parts.
Sulphur 10 „
Regulus of antimony 8 „
Realgar 6 „
Red lead 4 „
Shellac 1 part.

This formula gives a much purer white than the formula for ordinary brilliant stars, which are always bluish in tint. Composition No. 1 must be moistened with the solution of shellac recommended for rocket stars.

YELLOW ROMAN-CANDLE STARS.

29. Yellow Roman-candle stars may be made from the same formula as that given for yellow rocket stars.

GREEK ROMAN-CANDLE STARS.

30. Greek Roman-candle stars may be made from the formulas given for rocket stars; but there is also another formula, which produces a rather deeper tint, but is hardly rapid enough in combustion for rocket stars. It is the following:—

GREEN ROMAN-CANDLE STARS.
Composition No. 2.
Nitrate of baryta 40 parts.
Chlorate of potash 20 „
Calomel 12 „
Sulphur 12 „
Shellac (fine) 4 „
Charcoal (fine) 1 part.

This composition must be moistened with the solution of shellac. It will produce a most lovely colour, if the _baryta be pure_.

CRIMSON, ROSE, BLUE, AND PURPLE ROMAN-CANDLE STARS.

31. The formulas for crimson, rose, blue, and purple Roman-candle stars are the same as given for rocket stars, and must be moistened with the liquid directed in my last paper as proper for each one.

You have now formulas for making brilliant, white, golden, green, crimson, rose, blue, and purple stars.

ROMAN-CANDLE STARS (To Make).

32. In order to make the stars, moisten the compositions _very slightly_. The mould in which these stars are shaped is a brass tube of a size proportioned to the size of the Roman-candle case, and is generally about one-sixteenth of an inch smaller in its inner diameter than the case. The drift with which the composition is pressed into the tube is made of boxwood or metal, and fits easily into the tubular mould. At one of its ends there is a wire point. Place the end having the point in the mould as far as it will go. You will find a space left at the end of the mould unoccupied by the drift. Press this empty end of the tube into the slightly-moistened composition until it is filled by it, so that the drift, being driven down upon the composition, will compress it into a firm cylindrical mass, into the centre of which the wire point projects. Figures 35, 37, and 39, represent the mould, drift, and finished star. When the star is thus formed in the mould the drift must be reversed, and its long plain end inserted, and the star pushed out. The object of making the star hollow is that it may dry and harden perfectly in its centre. If heat is employed to dry the stars, they have a tendency to harden outside rapidly, and thereby an impervious coating is formed, through which the inner moisture cannot evaporate. This difficulty is obviated by leaving a hole in the centre of the star, and this hole is made of use for another important purpose—namely, _the priming_ of the star.

My plan for insuring the ignition of the stars is, as far as I know, peculiar to myself, and I have the satisfaction of knowing that it has never failed me. Some pyrotechnists recommend the smearing of the star with a very combustible paste; this plan, however, must to some extent injure the colour of the star. I simply place a little piece of quick-match into the hole in the star, and allow it to project about a quarter of an inch above. By this means even slowly-combustible stars are ignited, and almost every chance of failure is avoided.

This priming, however, should not be done until the stars are to be put into the cases—at all events, till they are perfectly dry. Their drying may be effected naturally out-of-doors in the summer, when a very few hours’ exposure in the sun will render them thoroughly hard and fit for use. In the winter time, however, artificial heat should be used. I always find that the more rapidly, _up to a certain point_, these stars are hardened, the better they keep. Nothing, however, will be gained by hurrying them through this process, except a danger of their exploding. Place them carefully, and not touching one another, in a tin box having a lid, and let this box remain at such a distance before a fire that it can become thoroughly warm, _not hot_, till the stars are thought hard enough to be put away. They should be kept, when dry, in closely-stoppered bottles in a dry place. Each star will weigh, at least, thirty grains.

COMPOSITION FOR ROMAN CANDLES.

33. I must now suppose your stars and cases to be ready for use; and, therefore, the next thing to be considered will be the composition which is to form the intervals between the stars in the cases. For this purpose I give you three formulas.

COMPOSITION FOR ROMAN
CANDLES.
No. 1.
Nitre 18 parts.
Sulphur 6 „
Charcoal (fine) 7 „
Meal-powder 4 „

This composition is one which answers very well. I think, however, that the following is better, being rather more rapid in its combustion, and thus capable of producing a more decided effect when burning at the lower end of the case:—

No. 2.
Nitre 16 parts.
Meal-powder 8 „
Charcoal (fine) 6 „
Sulphur 6 „

This is the composition which I generally employ. Both of these formulas give rather a dusty mixture, and can be used with much greater cleanliness and comfort if slightly moistened. Only so much spirits of wine or gin must be used as will render them less dusty, and not wet. The following composition is very useful, but produces rather a jet of flame with sparks than a rich sparkling fountain:—

No. 3.
Nitre 16 parts.
Meal-powder 11 „
Sulphur 6 „
Antimony 4 „

This composition is of a more heavy and less dusty nature, but can also be slightly moistened, if you find it more convenient to use it when thus treated. Take care that in each case the ingredients are well mixed.

ROMAN-CANDLE CASES (To Fill).

34. Having selected one of the above compositions, you will now be ready to fill your cases. For this part of your work you will require a small turned block of wood, like that drawn in the page of illustrations (fig. 40). This block with its projecting piece is called a “settle.” One end of your Roman-candle case is pressed over the upper part of this settle, which is made of a size to fit into it tightly. By this means the case will be supported while it is being filled. The first thing to be done is to close up one end of the case. This is done by ramming in a small quantity of dry potter’s clay, such as you used for rockets; this being driven down over the top of the settle will form a very hard, firm end.

CHARGES FOR ROMAN CANDLES.

35. We now have to enter upon the most difficult part of the manufacture of Roman candles. This is the regulation of the charges of powder which are to blow the stars into the air. These are so small, and necessarily so, that unless their quantity be very accurately measured you are very likely to spoil the performance of the whole. The following table will give you _an approximate_ idea of the quantity that each charge should contain; but so much depends upon the _quality_ of the gunpowder which you employ, that it is impossible to give you anything more than an approximation:—

For the 1st star 3 grains.
„ 2nd „ 4 „
„ 3rd „ 4 „
„ 4th „ 5 „
„ 5th „ 5 „
„ 6th „ 6 „
„ 7th „ 6 „
„ 8th „ 7 „
„ 9th „ 8 „
„ 10th „ 30 „

Gunpowder exerts more or less force in its combustion in proportion as it meets with more or less resistance. It is in accordance with this principle that those charges of gunpowder which are at or near the lower end of the Roman-candle case, are obliged to be much smaller than those placed nearer its mouth. If it were not so, and all the charges were alike, when the combustion reached a certain point the case would be burst. You must modify the quantities given in the above table until you produce the greatest and best effect with the greatest economy of power. I think that the five first charges will not require to be altered much. I have given charges for _ten_ stars. You need not, of course, put so many into the case; but you should not put in less than _eight_. All must depend in this matter upon the quantity of composition which you like to use in the intervals between the stars. _Only be sure to keep the two last charges of gunpowder always the same, and do not place the two last stars too near the mouth of the case._ The reason why these rules must be observed is that the force of the charges of gunpowder which lie near the mouth of the case is so soon spent, that if the stars are too near the mouth of the Roman candle they will do little more than fall out of the case, instead of being blown to their proper height. The first star means, not that one which is fired first from the Roman candle, _but that which is first put into it_.

Your best plan for measuring the charges of powder is to have some small scoops or ladles made of very thin sheet-brass, of the same shape as that used in filling rockets, and capable of holding exactly the right charge of powder for each star. This is the only plan that I am aware of for insuring with any accuracy the various quantities.

Now, having your stars primed, as directed above, with quick-match, your clay rammed firmly into the lower end of the case, and your composition ready moistened for use, you must cut some _thin_ touch-paper into squares of an inch in size. Next you must be provided with a round stick with a flat end, which will pass easily into the case from one end to the other, not shorter than _eighteen inches_. Your materials and apparatus are now complete.

First put into the case the first charge of gunpowder, and take care that this finds its way to the bottom of the case; drop in next the first star, _with its priming upwards_. Take care also that the star lies directly upon the charge of powder. Now, by means of another brass scoop made to hold the proper quantity of composition, put into the case half the quantity that is to be rammed between the first and second stars. You must then press this into its place by means of your ramming-stick. This can be done with the hand, without any mallet. The weight of a mallet would break the star beneath. Remember always to ram in the composition which is to form the interval between the stars _in two quantities_. If you attempt to ram it all in at once it will not be sufficiently consolidated, and its combustion will be too rapid. The quantity of composition must depend entirely upon your own taste. I generally put in as much, in two quantities, as will rise about an inch in height in the case; it will not do to put in less.

Then upon the top of this composition put one of the square pieces of thin touch-paper. This may be rammed down in the same manner in which a gun-wadding is driven upon the top of the charge. The object of this little piece of touch-paper is to prevent the charge of powder which is above it from disturbing in its explosion the composition which is below it. This I have always found it most effectually does, and allows, moreover, of the use of a rather stronger charge of powder, than could be employed without it. Having put this in flatly, measure out your second charge of powder, and put upon the top of it your second star, then another half-charge of composition, then the remaining half-charge, then another piece of thin touch-paper, and so on till the case is filled. _The last charge of powder should not be less than two inches below the mouth of the case._ The Roman candles should always begin with composition in their burning.

ARRANGEMENT OF STARS.

36. With regard to the arrangement of the stars, I generally vary the colours as much as possible in each Roman candle. If these pieces are to be fired singly, it matters little what the order of the colours is; but if they are to be fired in numbers, it will be necessary to arrange them so that they do not throw up the same colours at the same time. The plan that I adopt to prevent this is the following:—I make out a list of the coloured stars that I have ready to use, arranging them, for instance, in the following order:—brilliant, green, yellow, blue, red, white, purple, rose. The _first_ Roman candle may be filled with its stars in this order. In the second I should begin with the green, in the third with the yellow, and so on, till all that are to be fired at once are completed.

PREPARATION OF TOUCH-PAPER.

37. I have spoken about touch-paper, but I do not think that I have yet described its preparation. This is very simple. Obtain some thin blue paper—not so thin as tissue-paper, but thinner than the ordinary blue paper used by shopkeepers—brush or sponge this over with a weak solution of nitre. If this solution is made too strong, the nitre will recrystallise as the water evaporates in drying, and this should not be the case.

QUICK-MATCH.

38. Quick-match, of a quality good enough to answer for priming to the Roman-candle stars, may be made simply as follows:—Make a thick paste of gunpowder and hot water with a small quantity of gum in it. Take about four strands of cotton, such as is sold in balls and used for making the wicks of lamps, steep this in the solution of nitre used above for making touch-paper, and then wring it as dry as possible; then rub it well in the gunpowder paste till it is thoroughly covered with it. One end of the cotton may then be passed through a small funnel, whose mouth is not more than an eighth of an inch in width. By this means, if the whole length of the cotton is drawn through it, the superfluous paste will be removed, and the match will be of a nice round form. Hang it out-of-doors on a dry day, and when it is nearly dry coil it upon a tray or paper, and dust it over with meal-powder. In winter it will not be sufficiently dry for use under a week. When thoroughly dry it should be stiff and hard, and the less it is bent or doubled the better.

If you wish to use this match for connecting the mouths of different fireworks, or “clothing” them, as it is termed, you must make some long paper tubes round a wire former which has a diameter of not less than three-sixteenths of an inch. These pipes are threaded on the match, and have a piece cut away at their side wherever they are inserted into the mouth of a case, in order that the match may be laid bare and convey its fire to the priming of the cases.

I have given you these short hints for the preparation of a quick-match. I cannot, however, recommend your acting upon them, as the manufacture of this useful article involves a great deal of very dirty work. Unfortunately, quick-match is rather expensive to buy, while it may be made at a very trifling cost. It is a most indispensable accessory, and if you dare face the dirty work, you will find your courage will well repay you. You may prepare it any way that you please, remembering that all that is necessary is to coat the cotton well with a highly-combustible compound, and one which will dry thoroughly.

Your Roman candles, when charged, should be finished with touch-paper; or with ordinary paper, to receive the quick-match, if they are intended to be fired simultaneously in numbers.

I trust that the above directions will enable you to succeed in the manufacture of a species of firework without which no exhibition can be complete, and with which so many and beautiful effects may be produced.

In case you should prefer to buy your chemicals and various ingredients of an operative chemist, I beg to refer you to Messrs. Bolton & Co., 146, Holborn-bars, London, in whose preparations I have great confidence, and who will undertake to supply you with all the articles required in pyrotechny at the prices in the subjoined list. You will perceive that it is much more economical to purchase them _by the pound_ whenever they are required in such quantities. Many of the things, however, you will need to use only sparingly, and these, therefore, may be bought by the ounce. I think the following list will be found to contain nearly all the preparations that you will require; there may be a few things omitted, such, for instance, as red lead (used in the composition for white Roman-candle stars), but this can be procured of any country chemist or painter:—

Per lb. Per oz.
_s._ _d._ _s._ _d._
Nitre in powder 0 8
Meal-powder 1 0
Sulphur 0 4
Charcoal 4_d._ to 0 8
Calomel 5 0 0 4
Nitrate of strontia 1 0 0 1
do. do. anhydrous 2 0 0 2
Nitrate of baryta 1 0 0 1
Do. do. anhydrous 2 0 0 2
Chertier’s copper 4 6 0 4
Oxalate of soda 3 0 0 3
Shellac in powder 3 0 0 3
Sulphide of copper fused 2 6 0 2
Realgar 2 0 0 2
Carbonate of strontia 2 0 0 2
Stearine 2 0 0 2
Regulus of antimony 1 9 0 2
Bright steel filings 1 0 0 1
Cast-iron borings 0 6
Powdered glass 1 0 0 1

I have now only to give you a brief description of the woodcuts. Fig. 34 represents the funnel into which golden rain composition is placed; Fig. 35 the drift with which it is rammed; Fig. 36 the case which is to contain it; Fig. 37 represents the tubular Roman-candle star mould; Fig. 38 the drift with which the stars are rammed; Fig. 39 the finished star with its quick-match priming; Fig. 40 represents the settle with its upper part on which the Roman-candle case is to be supported.

The next portion of our subject with which we have to deal is that which comes under the head of

GERBES AND JETS OF BRILLIANT, CHINESE, AND COMMON FIRES.

CHINESE AND BRILLIANT FIRES.

39. These are certainly among the most beautiful and effective pieces to be met with in the whole range of pyrotechny. They should find a place in every exhibition, and, if only prepared properly, according to the directions which I am now about to give, will be sure to prove one of the most striking features in your display.

They have one great advantage—that there is no limit to the modes of combination or arrangement in which these pieces may be effectively employed. By means of them you can make any such things as the following:—Fountains of any size or design, cascades, brilliant suns, either fixed or revolving; bouquets of Chinese fire, Prince of Wales’s feathers, trees of silver flowers, and a thousand other devices which will readily occur to you.

But, like many other things which are possessed of highly useful or ornamental qualities, they have a corresponding disadvantage. Their compositions, to produce the desired effect, must be made _as shortly as possible before you intend_ to fire them; for the ingredients upon which they rely for their beauty are _filings of steel for brilliant fires_, and _borings of iron for Chinese fires_, and unless these filings and borings be entirely free from rust at the time when they are fired, the effect produced will be insignificant as compared with what it should be. And it must be borne in mind that both iron and steel become very soon and very easily corroded when mixed with any composition into which nitre and sulphur enter. I have known cases filled with brilliant or Chinese fire remain good for a week in winter; but I do not suppose that even then their performance was at all what it would have been if they had been prepared for a few hours only.

Many attempts have been made to secure these metallic ingredients from corrosion. Some have stirred the filings in a varnish made of resin and spirit; others have shaken them about in powdered black-lead, and so coated them with this substance. But a coating of any kind is tolerably certain either to rob the spark, which each particle of metal should produce, of its brilliancy, or to render the composition during combustion very smoky, and so impair the intended effect.

By far the most successful preparation of steel and iron that I have noticed is the following:—A weak solution of asphalt in naptha is made, and the filings or borings are stirred about in this. When it is thought that they are thoroughly covered with it, the solution is poured off, and the filings spread out upon a paper to dry. This plan will protect them from rust for a little time longer than they would otherwise remain uncorroded. But still the best plan is to prepare the compositions as short a time as possible before they are to be fired.

The size that I recommend for cases which are intended to contain Chinese fire is that called the _two-ounce_ case. To make them, the same former may be used as was employed in the manufacture of Roman-candle cases already described.

The paper and imperial board may be cut of the following sizes. Open your sheet of paper, _of the 70-lb. thickness_, to its full size, and divide it into three pieces, as shown in the following woodcut, Fig. 41:—

Fig 41.
]

Then open your sheet of imperial board to its full size, and divide it thus into nine equal pieces, Fig. 42.

So that by these arrangements one sheet of imperial board and three sheets of 70-lb. brown paper will furnish you with material for _nine_ cases, each of which will be about nine and a-half inches in length.

Fig. 42.
]

Fig. 43.
]

My plan for rolling the cases is that which I have described in paragraph 25, but which may perhaps, be rendered slightly more intelligible by the accompanying sketch. Having pasted one of my strips of paper and one piece of board all over on one side, and having brushed some paste over my metal former, I lay the former across the strip of paper about one-third of its whole length from the end nearest to me. I then double the one-third of the strip, pasted side downwards, over the former, on to the remaining two-thirds, Fig. 43, taking care that the edges of the one are even and parallel with the edges of the other. Then having made a crease in the upper fold just in front of the former, I put into this crease the pasted piece of imperial board, and roll up the whole together. It is necessary, however, _to paste the upper side_ of the fold of paper which you have made round the former. This I have always found a very quick, and easy, and perfect method of preparing cases of any kind. I trust that I have rendered my meaning plain, as I shall have occasion to refer frequently to this operation. The rolling board must, of course be used.

The cases when made are to be choked, _while wet_, precisely in the same manner as described for rocket-cases, only it must be remembered that their aperture may be almost choked up, because when it has been reopened by the point over which they are loaded, _it must not be more than one-third of the interior diameter of the case in size_.

Having described the manufacture of the cases. I now proceed to give the formulas for the composition of

CHINESE FIRE.

40. There are two sorts of this fire which are known by the names _red_ and _white_. The red is that which contains charcoal, and _therefore has some red sparks intermixed with those produced by the iron_; the white is that _the sparks of which are produced by the iron only_. It is my intention to give several formulas for this fire, in order that my readers may select for themselves, and use that which they find most successful.

No. 1.
Meal-powder 16 parts
Nitre 16 „
Sulphur 4 „
Charcoal (No. 2) 4 „
Iron borings 14 „

Or the following is quicker in combustion:—

No. 2.
Meal-powder 16 „
Sulphur 3 „
Charcoal 3 „
Iron borings 7 „

Or,

No. 3.
Meal-powder 8 „
Nitre 16 „
Sulphur 3 „
Charcoal 3 „
Iron borings 8 „

Or,

No 4.
Meal-powder 16 „
Nitre 8 „
Sulphur 4 „
Charcoal 3 „
Iron borings 7 „

The compositions given above produce what is termed _Red Chinese Fire_, since they all contain charcoal. I have numbered the charcoal, because Mr. Bolton, 146, Holborn-bars, supplies three different degrees of fineness, the _second_ of which is proper for this purpose.

The following formulas will produce what is called White Chinese Fire:—

No. 5.
Meal-powder 16 parts.
Nitre 6 „
Sulphur 3 „
Iron borings 10 „

Or,

No. 6.
Meal-powder 16 „
Nitre 4 „
Sulphur 2 „
Iron borings 6 „

Or,

No. 7.
Meal-powder 16 „
Iron borings 5 „

It is an understood rule among pyrotechnists that the smaller the diameter of the case employed the quicker must be the composition with which it is filled; or, in other words, a quick composition which answers well in a case of small diameter will burn too rapidly, or explode, in a case of larger dimensions. My readers must therefore first determine the size of the case that they intend to use. It will not be well to adopt any size of case smaller than the _two-ounce_ for Chinese fire. If, however, the ¼ lb. size be chosen, I should recommend the compositions No. 1, No. 3, or No. 5. Nos. 2, 4, 6, 7 will answer very well in a case of the 2-oz. size.

But if it be thought advisable to have recourse to a case of the ½ lb. size, a still weaker composition will be required, in which case the following formulas may be used:—

No. 8.
Nitre 16 parts.
Sulphur 3 „
Charcoal 4 „
Iron borings 7 „

Or,

No. 9.
Nitre 20 „
Sulphur 4 „
Charcoal 4 „
Iron borings 12 „

For general purposes, cases of the 2-oz. size will be found quite large enough, particularly when used in combination, and not fired singly.

The most effective of all the compositions that I have given is No. 7, which consists of meal-powder and iron borings only, but it is very rapid and fierce in its combustion, and will burst the cases into which it is put unless great care be taken in the ramming. A very little of the composition must be rammed at a time, in order to insure a thoroughly equal and solid compression throughout the case. If properly managed a two-ounce case filled with this composition will throw a very brilliant jet of large flowers of fire from eight to ten feet in height.

I have sometimes thought that the moistening of composition No. 7 with a little turpentine, so that it becomes less dusty, has the effect of preserving the iron or steel from rust to some extent. At all events, it greatly facilitates the uniform mixing of the ingredients. It must, however, be especially borne in mind that _neither spirits of wine nor gin must be used to moisten any composition containing iron or steel_.

The iron borings which Mr. Darby will supply are very effective for the preparation of Chinese fire.

You should take care that the other ingredients are thoroughly mixed before you add the iron borings, and then that the iron be equally distributed throughout the mixture.

The next operation is the filling of the cases. For this you will require some tools not before mentioned, which I will now proceed to describe.

You should get Mr. Newman to make you three solid drifts which will pass very easily into your 2-oz. cases. The first of these should be about _nine inches long_, the second about five inches long, and the third two inches long. These tools will always be found convenient for many purposes in pyrotechny, and not only for the filling of Chinese fire cases. The two longest of these drifts should be about _nine-sixteenths of an inch in diameter_; the third may be nearly five-eighths of an inch.

Your mallet should be, in the measurement of its head, five inches long and three in diameter. It should be made either of ash or beech.

In the next place you will require a block with a nipple and point, such as is drawn in the page of illustrations, figs. 44, 45 and 46. This may be made of wood, with its point only of metal; but I much prefer a metal nipple and point. Mr. Newman has made for me a set of nipples and settles in gun-metal, _all of which fit into the same block_. They answer all purposes, and take up very little room; whereas you will find a multiplicity of blocks very inconvenient, if your accommodation is as scanty as mine.

You must, of course, have a scoop of a proper size for filling 2-oz. cases, and this, I think, will complete your tools.

Your case must now be pressed over the point of your nipple, and by this means its aperture will be made of the proper size. You will find it very convenient to have a ring of iron fixed into your block, through which the case must be passed, which will steady it and keep it in a perpendicular position while being filled (fig. 47).

Fig. 47.
]

And this is in reality more than a matter of convenience, for unless the case be perpendicular while the operation of filling is going on, the blows of the mallet will not have their proper effect, and the composition will not be thoroughly consolidated; or, what is worse, the neck of the case may be wrenched or injured in some manner, and will in all probability give way and burst upon the combustion of the composition.

Now drive in your composition, a ladleful at a time, and, after putting in each ladleful, give the drift twelve blows with the mallet. Fill the cases till there remains a space of _two inches only_ unoccupied at the end. Into this end put _a gun-charge and a-half_ of gunpowder. Then with a bradawl separate one or two of the inner folds of the paper of the case, and turn these down on the top of the powder.

My method of filling in the ends of the cases is the following:—Melt in an earthen pipkin a mixture of two parts of common resin and one of wax. This may be poured into the ends of the cases upon the paper that has been turned down. It will harden in a few minutes, and will be found to insure you a good report from the powder.

It only remains now to prime these cases. This is an operation requiring some care, although it may be performed in a very simple manner. If the point of your nipple is not too long—that is, is only long enough to _reach_ the composition _without penetrating it_—all that you need do is to press into the mouth of the case some meal-powder paste; but if a cavity has been left in the composition, this must be filled up before priming, or the case will inevitably burst.

It is an excellent plan to take for your first ladleful, not any of the compositions for Chinese fire, but a ladleful of some slower fire containing no iron borings. You may use a mixture consisting of

Nitre 6 parts.
Sulphur 1 part.
Charcoal 1 „

The advantage of attending to this piece of advice will be very apparent to you, and I strongly recommend the plan to your notice in the case of _brilliant_, as well as of Chinese, fires.

Fig. 48
]

Having now described the manufacture of the cases of Chinese fire, I shall proceed to point out to you some of the combinations in which they may be used. The simplest is the ordinary Prince of Wales Feather, the framework of which any blacksmith can make in thin iron rod, having a couple of holes drilled in it, through which screws may be driven to fasten it to your post. I give you two sketches (figs. 48 and 49), the former of which has, in my opinion, rather the advantage. The mouths of the cases must, of course, be connected with quick-match, so that they all take fire simultaneously. By having a framework made of iron it will be liable to no injury from the explosions at the end of the cases. The same framework may be used with three Roman candles, instead of Chinese fire cases, and with excellent effect.

Fig. 49.—Prince of Wales’ Feathers.
]

Fig. 50.
]

The next most simple combination is that which is called the Bouquet of Chinese Fire. It should be made with, at least, five cases, and will then be found very effective in its performance. Its framework is of very simple construction, and may be made in a few minutes by any boy. The accompanying sketch (fig. 50), will prevent the necessity of any further explanation.

A very pretty piece may be made, representing a tree of silver flowers. Procure a straight piece of deal of any length that you require (the length must be determined by the number of cases that you intend to use). This will answer for the trunk of the tree. To this nail some pieces of lath in the shape given in the adjoining woodcut (fig. 51). On each of these, and at the top of the straight piece, tie a case of Chinese fire, and connect all the mouths of the cases by means of quick-match. When ignited, this piece will present a very beautiful appearance, and may be made a highly satisfactory conclusion to a small exhibition.

Fig. 51.
]

It is worthy of remark that all pieces in which Chinese fire is used should be raised to a considerable height from the ground, otherwise they will lose much of their beauty, for the sparks produced by the particles of iron are thrown much farther, and remain visible much longer, on account of their superior size, than those produced by steel, and if they have not a certain distance through which to fall, much of their effect will be thrown away. The post on which I fire nearly all my pieces _stands ten feet out of the ground_. It is made of deal painted with lead-colour, and is about three inches square. It can be taken down or put up at a moment’s notice, as it fits into an oak box sunk in the ground, of the same kind as those used in drying grounds. If you have a post of this kind made, see that the part which fits into the box is _not straight_, but slightly tapered. This will allow of a better fit, and enable you to remove it far more easily when required.

There are many combinations which it will not be at all necessary for me to notice here, for the firing of one of these cases of Chinese fire is not only a beautiful thing in itself, but is also very suggestive of different devices under which this valuable preparation may be employed. If any of my readers should hit upon any unusually good device I shall be glad to hear of it through the publishers of this book; and if my readers, in the course of their experiments, should stumble upon a really good plan for preparing iron borings and steel filings so that they become incorrodible, they will confer a great favour upon the pyrotechnic world by making it known.

Be sure not to forget to first ram into your cases half-a-ladleful of the preparatory fire given above: it will save you many a disappointment. If you prefer a composition a little quicker, add some meal-powder to it.

Having said all that is necessary to make the manufacture of Chinese Fire intelligible, I pass on to consider, in the next place, the subject of Brilliant Fire.

BRILLIANT FIRE.

41.—The points of difference between brilliant and Chinese fires are these:—

1st.—The sparks produced in the combustion of brilliant fire by steel filings are much whiter, but at the same time much smaller and shorter-lived, than those produced by iron borings in Chinese fire.

2nd.—The steel sparks are not thrown to so great a distance, on account of their superior weight and size; but they are much more numerous, and afford a rich tale, or “brush,” as it is termed, of glowing scintillations, rather than a gracefully-falling jet or fountain of large sparks. This very fact, however, of their not being thrown so far from the case out of which they are fired renders them capable of producing an effect in combination of which Chinese fire is incapable. The cases, when arranged in the position of the radii of a circle or spokes of a wheel, will throw a _perfectly straight_ brush of brilliant fire, which will, of course, much more closely represent rays of light emanating from a centre than any fire the sparks of which have a tendency to fall.

3rd.—Another point of difference between the composition containing iron borings and that containing steel filings is that the former should never be employed in the construction of pieces which have motion; for the very motion of the piece, or rather the increased impetus with which the particles of _iron_ are thrown out into the cold air, has the effect of cooling them so rapidly that almost all their beauty is lost. But this is not the case with _steel filings_: they seem almost unaffected by the rapid motion of the piece in which they are employed; and for this reason they possess an advantage which fully makes up for their being so much less showy in their performance than the iron borings.

The cases into which the composition for brilliant fire is rammed need not be so large as those employed for Chinese fire. I employ two sizes—the 1-oz. size for cases that are intended to turn wheels or any revolving pieces, and a smaller size still for those that are to remain perfectly stationary during their combustion.

The fault into which the young pyrotechnist is most likely to fall is that of using a power considerably in advance of his need. In order that you may not do this (for there is always fear of failure when you do), I recommend you _to use no cases for brilliant fire larger than the one-ounce size_. This, you will find, will give you a moving power amply sufficient for any wheels that I suppose you are likely to use, and particularly if you bear in mind the rule, that _increase of power is gained much more safely and much more effectively by an additional number of cases burning at the same time than by any additional force that you can get out of one case_.

The 1-oz. case, as you know by this time, is made round a former exactly half-an-inch in exterior diameter and 12 inches long. The paper for these cases may be cut precisely in the same manner as directed for Chinese fire cases. The imperial board should be cut thus (fig. 52), into twelve equal pieces. Take care that the _long_ side of the board is divided into _three_, and the _short_ into four.