Chapter III: The Magnates of San Juan—Captain Samuel Shepherd—Royal

Grants—Vexatious Delays—Imposing Departure—Entrance of the River
San Juan—“Peeling” of the Marineros—Character of the Stream—The
Juanillo—An Immemorial Stopping-place—Bongos and their Equipments
and Stores—Meals—Esprit du Corps among the Boatmen—The
“Oracion”—Queer Caprices—Medio—Our Accommodation—A Specimen Night
on the River—Morning Scenes and Impressions—Bongo Life—The
Colorado Mouth—Change of Scenery—The Iguana—A Solitary
Establishment—Tropical Ease—The Rio Serapiqui—Fight between the
Nicaraguans and the English—“A famous victory”—The Rio San
Francisco—Remolino Grande—Picturesque River Views—The Hills and
Pass of San Carlos—Thunder Storms—The Machuca Rapids—Melchora
Indians—Rapids of Mico and Los Valos—Rapids of the Castillo—Island
of Bartola—Capture by Lord Nelson—The “Castillo Viejo,” or Old
Castle of San Juan—“A Dios California!”—Ascend to the Ruins—Strong
Works—Capture of the Fort by the English in 1780—Failure of the
Expedition against Nicaragua; a Scrap of History—Passage of the
Rapids—Different Aspect of the River—A Black Eagle—Ninety Miles in
Six Days—The Port of San Carlos—Great Lake of Nicaragua—Land at
San Carlos—The Commandante—Hearty Welcome—Novel Scenes—Ancient
Defences—View from the Fort—The Rio Frio—The Gnatosos Indians—A
Paradise for Alligators—Some Happy Institutions of theirs, 55