Chapter XVIII: Return to Granada—A Ball in Honor of “El

Ministro”—The Funambulos—Departure for Rivas or Nicaragua—Hills of
Scoriæ—The Insane Girl and the Brown Samaritan—A Way-side
Idol—Mountain Lakes and Strange Birds—A Sudden Storm—Take Refuge
among the “Vaqueros”—Inhospitable Reception—Night Ride; Darkness
and Storm—Friendly Indians—Indian Pueblo of Nandyme—The Hacienda
of Jesus Maria—An Astonished Mayor Domo—How to get a
Supper—Jicorales—Ochomogo—Rio Gil Gonzales—The “Obraje”—Rivas and
its Dependencies—Señor Hurtado—His Cacao Plantation—The
City—Effect of Earthquakes and of Shot—Attack of Somoza—Another
American—His attempt to cultivate Cotton on the Island of
Ometepec—Murder of his Wife—Failure of his Enterprize—A Word about
Cotton Policy—The Antiquities of Ometepec—Aboriginal Burial
Places—Funeral Vases—Relics of Metal—Golden Idols—A Copper
Mask—Antique Pottery—A Frog in Verd Antique—Sickness of my
Companions—The Pueblo of San Jorge—Shore of the Lake—Feats of
Horsemanship—Lance Practice—Visit Potosi—Another Remarkable Relic
of Aboriginal Superstition—The Valley of Brito—An Indigo
Estate—Cultivation of Indigo—Village of Brito—A Decaying Family
and a Decayed Estate—An Ancient Vase—Observations on the Proposed
Canal—Return alone to Granada—Despatches—A forced March to Leon, 491

CHAPTER XIX.—Volcanoes of Central America; their Number—Volcano of
Jorullo—Isalco—The Volcanic Chain of the Marabios—Infernales—“La
Baila de Los Demonios”—Volcanic Outburst on the Plain of
Leon—Visit to the New Volcano, and Narrow Escape—Baptizing a
Volcano—Eruption of Coseguina—Celebration of its
Anniversary—Synchronous Earthquakes—Late Earthquakes in Central
America—Volcano of Telica—El Volcan Viejo—Subterranean Lava
Beds—Activity of the Volcanoes of the Marabios in the 16th
Century—The Phenomena of Earthquakes—Earthquake of Oct. 27,
1849—Volcanic Features of the Country—Extinct Craters—Volcanic
Lakes—The Volcano of Nindiri or Masaya—Descent into it by the Fray
Blas de Castillo—Extraordinary Description, 525

CHAPTER XX.—Christmas—Nacimientos—The Cathedral on Christmas
Eve—Midnight Ceremonies—An Alarm—Attempt at Revolution—Fight in
the Plaza—Triumph of Order—The Dead—Melancholy Scenes—A Scheme of
Federation, 551

CHAPTER XXI.—The “Paseo al Mar”—Preparations for the Annual Visit to
the Sea—The Migration—Impromptu Dwellings—Indian Potters—The
Salines—The Encampment—First Impressions—Contrabanda—Old
Friends—The Camp by Moonlight—Practical Jokes—A Brief Alarm—Dance
on the Shore—Un Juego—Lodgings, Cheap and Romantic—An Ocean
Lullaby—Morning—Sea Bathing—Routine of the
Paseo—Divertisements—Return to Leon, 561

CHAPTER XXII.—Proposed Visit to San Salvador and Honduras—Departure from
Leon—Chinandega—Ladrones—The Goitre—Gigantic Forest Trees—Port of
Tempisque—The Estero Real and its Scenery—A novel Custom house and
its Commandante—Night on the Estero—Bay of Fonseca—Volcano of
Conseguina—The Island of Tigre—Port of Amapala—View from the
Island—Entrance to the Bay—Sacate Grande—Exciting News from
Honduras—English Fortifications—Extent, Resources, and Importance
of the Bay—Departure for the Seat of War, 575

CHAPTER XXIII.—Departure for San Lorenzo—Morning Scenes—Novel
Cavalcade—A High Plain—Life amongst Revolutions—Nacaome—Military
Reception—General Cabañas—An Alarm—Negotiations—British
Interference—A Truce—Prospects of Adjustment—An Evening Review—The
Soldiery—A Night Ride—Return to San Lorenzo, 595

CHAPTER XXIV.—La Union—Oysters—American Books—Chiquirin—French
Frigate “La Serieuse”—Admiral Hornby of the Asia, 84—French and
English war Vessels—Ascent of the Volcano of Conchagua—A Mountain
Village—Peculiarities of the Indians—Las Tortilleras—Volcano of
San Miguel—Fir Forests—An Ancient Volcano Vent—The Crater of
Conchagua—Peak of Scoriæ—View from the Volcano—Enveloped in
Clouds—Perilous Descent—Yololtoca—Pueblo of Conchagua again—An
Obsequio—Indian Welcome—Semana Santa—Devils—Surrender of
Guardiola—San Salvador—Its Condition and Relations, 613

CHAPTER XXV.—Departure for the United States—An American Hotel in
Granada—Los Cocos—Voyage through the Lake—Descent of the River—San
Juan—Chagres—Home—Outline of Nicaraguan Constitution—Conclusion of
Narrative, 633

APPENDIX.

CHAPTER I.—General Account of Nicaragua; its Boundaries, Topography,
Lakes, Rivers, Ports, Climate, Population, Productions, Mines,
etc., etc., 639

CHAPTER II.—The Proposed Inter-Oceanic Canal; Early Explorations;
Survey of Colonel Childs in 1851; Various Lines proposed from Lake
Nicaragua to the Pacific, etc., etc., 657