Chapter I

Explanation--Natives of Tierra del Fuego, or Fuegians--Passages
across the Equator (Atlantic)--Letters--Small-pox--Hospital
--Boat--Memory--Fuegians in London--At Walthamstow--At St.
James’s--Beagle recommissioned--Correspondence with Mr. Wilson
--Fuegians re-embark.

As the following narrative of the Beagle’s second voyage to South America is a sequel to the “Surveying Voyages of the Adventure and the Beagle,” which are related in the preceding volume, it may be advisable that this chapter should contain a sketch of some few incidents intimately connected with the origin and plan of the second Expedition.

Captain King has already mentioned that the two ships under his orders sailed from Rio de Janeiro, on their homeward passage, early in August 1830.

During the time which elapsed before we reached England, I had time to see much of my Fuegian companions; and daily became more interested about them as I attained a further acquaintance with their abilities and natural inclinations. Far, very far indeed, were three of the number from deserving to be called savages--even at this early period of their residence among civilized people--though the other, named York Minster, was certainly a displeasing specimen of uncivilized human nature.

The acts of cannibalism occasionally committed by their countrymen, were explained to me in such terms, and with such signs, that I could not possibly misunderstand them; and a still more revolting account was given, though in a less explicit manner, respecting the horrible fate of the eldest women of their own tribes, when there is an unusual scarcity of food.

This half-understood story I did not then notice much, for I could not believe it; but as, since that time, a familiarity with our language has enabled the Fuegians to tell other persons, as well as myself, of this strange and diabolical atrocity: and as Mr. Low (of whom mention will often be made in the following pages) was satisfied of the fact, from the concurrent testimony of other Fuegians who had, at different times, passed months on board his vessel, I no longer hesitate to state my firm belief in the most debasing trait of their character which will be found in these pages.

At the sea-ports which the Beagle visited in her way from Tierra del Fuego to England, animals, ships, and boats seemed to engage the notice of our copper-coloured friends far more than human beings or houses. When any thing excited their attention particularly, they would appear, at the time, almost stupid and unobservant; but that they were not so in reality was shown by their eager chattering to one another at the very first subsequent opportunity, and by the sensible remarks made by them a long time afterwards, when we fancied they had altogether forgotten unimportant occurrences which took place during the first few months of their sojourn among us.

A large ox, with unusually long horns, excited their wonder remarkably; but in no instance was outward emotion noticed, to any great degree, excepting when they saw a steam-vessel going into Falmouth Harbour. What extraordinary monster it was, they could not imagine. Whether it was a huge fish, a land animal, or the devil (of whom they have a notion in their country), they could not decide; neither could they understand the attempted explanations of our sailors, who tried to make them comprehend its nature: but, indeed, I think that no one who remembers standing, for the first time, near a railway, and witnessing the rapid approach of a steam-engine, with its attached train of carriages, as it dashed along, smoking and snorting, will be surprised at the effect which a large steam-ship, passing at full speed near the Beagle, in a dark night, must have had on these ignorant, though rather intelligent barbarians.

Before relating occurrences subsequent to our arrival in England, I must ask permission to make the first of a few nautical remarks that will be found in this volume, some of which, I hope, may be useful to young sailors.

Our passage across the Atlantic, from Rio de Janeiro to Falmouth, was unusually long. In order to sail within sight of the Cape Verd Islands, for a particular purpose, we steered eastward from the coast of Brazil, and crossed the equator far east. This course, unavoidable in our case, carried us into that tract of ocean, between the trade-winds, which in August and September is subject to westerly winds--sometimes extremely strong--and we encountered a very heavy gale, although so near the equator. Afterwards, when close to our own shores, we were unfortunate enough to be delayed by what seamen call a hard-hearted easterly wind; and not until the middle of October were we moored in a British port.

As a remarkable contrast, a Falmouth packet, which sailed from Rio de Janeiro some time after our departure, steered northward, as soon as she had cleared the coast of Brazil, crossed the line far to the west, and arrived in England a fortnight before us.

My own humble opinion, with respect to crossing the equator, is, that an outward-bound ship ought to cross near twenty-five--and that one homeward-bound may go even beyond thirty degrees of west longitude--but should not attempt to pass eastward of twenty-five. Ships crossing the line between twenty-five and thirty degrees west, are, I believe, far less subject to detention--taking the year through--than those which adopt easterly courses.

Cape St. Roque, St. Paul Rocks, Fernando Noronha, and the Roccas, ought not to be thought of too lightly; but in avoiding them, and the lee current near St. Roque, many ships have encountered the tedious calms, extremely hot weather, frequent torrents of rain, and violent squalls, which are more or less prevalent between the longitudes of twenty and ten degrees west.

To return to the Fuegians. While on our passage home I addressed the following letter to my commanding officer and kind friend, Captain King.

Beagle, at sea, Sept. 12, 1830.
“Sir,

“I have the honour of reporting to you that there are now on
board of his Majesty’s sloop, under my command, four natives of
Tierra del Fuego.

“Their names and estimated ages are,

York Minster 26
Boat Memory 20
James Button 14
Fuegia Basket (a girl) 9

“I have maintained them entirely at my own expense, and hold
myself responsible for their comfort while away from, and for
their safe return to their own country: and I have now to request
that, as senior officer of the Expedition, you will consider of
the possibility of some public advantage being derived from this
circumstance; and of the propriety of offering them, with that
view, to his Majesty’s Government.

“If you think it proper to make the offer, I will keep them in
readiness to be removed according to your directions.

“I am now to account for my having these Fuegians on board, and
to explain my future views with respect to them.

“In February last, the Beagle being moored in ‘Townshend
Harbour,’ on the south-west coast of Tierra del Fuego, I sent Mr.
Matthew Murray (master), with six men, in a whale-boat, to Cape
Desolation; the projecting part of a small, but high and rugged
island, detached from the main land, and twelve miles distant
from Townshend Harbour.

“Mr. Murray reached the place, and secured his party and the
boat in a cove near the cape: but during a very dark night, some
Fuegians, whose vicinity was not at all suspected, approached
with the dexterous cunning peculiar to savages and stole the boat.

“Thus deprived of the means of returning to the Beagle, and
unable to make their situation known, Mr. Murray and his party
formed a sort of canoe, or rather basket, with the branches of
trees and part of their canvas tent, and in this machine three
men made their way back to the Beagle, by his directions: yet,
although favoured by the only fine day that occurred during the
three weeks which the Beagle passed in Townshend Harbour, this
basket was twenty hours on its passage.

“Assistance was immediately given to the master and the other
men, and a chase for our lost boat was begun, which lasted many
days, but was unsuccessful in its object, although much of the
lost boat’s gear was found, and the women and children of the
families from whom it was recovered, were brought on board as
hostages. The men, excepting one of them, escaped from us, or
were absent in our missing boat.

“At the end of February the Beagle anchored in Christmas Sound;
but before this time all our prisoners had escaped, except three
little girls, two of whom we restored to their own tribe, near
‘Whale-boat Sound,’ and the other is now on board.

“From the first canoe seen in Christmas Sound, one man was taken
as a hostage for the recovery of our boat, and to become an
interpreter and guide. He came to us with little reluctance, and
appeared unconcerned.

“A few days afterwards, traces of our boat were found at some
wigwams on an island in Christmas Sound, and from the families
inhabiting those wigwams I took another young man, for the same
purpose as that above-mentioned. No useful information respecting
our lost boat was, however, gained from them, before we were
obliged to leave that coast, and she remained the prize of their
companions.

“Afterwards, when in Nassau Bay, our captives informed us that
the natives of that part of the coast, and all to the eastward,
were their enemies, and that they spoke a different language.
This intelligence was extremely disappointing, and made me
anxious to persuade one of this eastern tribe to come on board
and stay with us; but I had then no hopes of doing so, and gave
up the idea: however, some time afterwards, accidentally meeting
three canoes, when away in my boat exploring the Beagle Channel,
I prevailed on their occupants to put one of the party, a stout
boy, into my boat, and in return I gave them beads, buttons, and
other trifles. Whether they intended that he should remain with
us permanently, I do not know; but they seemed contented with the
singular bargain, and paddled again towards the cove from which
they had approached my boat. We pulled on along shore, attended
by other canoes, which had been endeavouring to barter with us
whenever we stopped; but at dusk they ceased following us and
went ashore.

“When about to depart from the Fuegian coast, I decided to keep
these four natives on board, for they appeared to be quite
cheerful and contented with their situation; and I thought that
many good effects might be the consequence of their living a
short time in England. They have lived, and have been clothed
like the seamen, and are now, and have been always, in excellent
health and very happy. They understand why they were taken, and
look forward with pleasure to seeing our country, as well as to
returning to their own.

“Should not his Majesty’s Government direct otherwise, I shall
procure for these people a suitable education, and, after two
or three years, shall send or take them back to their country,
with as large a stock as I can collect of those articles most
useful to them, and most likely to improve the condition of their
countrymen, who are now scarcely superior to the brute creation.

“I have, &c.
ROBERT FITZ-ROY,
Commander.”
“Phillip Parker King, Esq.
Commander H.M.S. Adventure,
Senior officer of the Expedition.”

This letter was forwarded to the Admiralty by Captain King, as soon as he arrived in England; and a few days afterwards the following answer was received.

Admiralty Office, 19th Oct. 1830.
“Sir,

“Having laid before my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty your
letter and its enclosure from Commander Fitz-Roy, of the Beagle,
relative to the four Indians whom he has brought from Tierra del
Fuego under the circumstances therein stated; I am commanded
to acquaint you that their Lordships will not interfere with
Commander Fitz-Roy’s personal superintendence of, or benevolent
intentions towards these four people, but they will afford him
any facilities towards maintaining and educating them in England,
and will give them a passage home again.

“I am, &c.
(Signed) JOHN BARROW.”
“To Commander King,
H.M.S.V. Adventure.”

I was, of course, anxious to protect the Fuegians, as far as possible, from the contagion of any of those disorders, sometimes prevalent, and which unhappily have so often proved fatal to the aboriginal natives of distant countries when brought to Europe; and, immediately after our arrival in England, they landed with me, after dark, and were taken to comfortable, airy lodgings, where, next day, they were vaccinated, for the second time.

Two days afterwards they were carried a few miles into the country, to a quiet farm-house, where I hoped they would enjoy more freedom and fresh air, and, at the same time, incur less risk of contagion than in a populous sea-port town, where curiosity would be excited.

Meanwhile, the Beagle was stripped and cleared out; and the Adventure went to Woolwich for a similar purpose, preparatory to being paid off. On the 27th of October, the Beagle’s pendant was hauled down; and on the 15th of November, the Adventure was put out of commission.

Both vessels’ crews were dispersed, as usual, unfortunately; and of those who had passed so many rough hours together, but few were likely to meet again. I much regretted the separation from my tried and esteemed shipmates, and from our excellent little vessel.

Soon afterwards, Captain King and Lieutenant Skyring were promoted: a gratifying proof of the good opinion of their exertions and conduct, which was entertained by the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty.

Early in November I received the sad intelligence that the young man, called Boat Memory, was taken ill; and that the symptoms of his disorder were like those of the small-pox. Dr. Armstrong, of the Royal Hospital at Plymouth, whose advice I solicited, suggested that he and the other three Fuegians should be received immediately into the hospital, with the view of preventing further infection, and ensuring the best treatment for the poor sufferer. Dr. Armstrong applied to the physician, Dr. Dickson (now Sir David Dickson), as well as Sir James Gordon, the superintendent, and by their advice and permission the Fuegians were removed into the hospital without delay; and an application was made to the Admiralty, of which the following is a copy.

“Devonport, 7th Nov. 1830.
“Sir,

“I have the honour of addressing you to request that the four
Fuegians, whom I brought to England in the Beagle, may be
received into the Royal Naval Hospital.

“The Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty have stated in a
letter to Commander King, dated 19th Oct. 1830, that ‘their
Lordships will not interfere with Commander Fitz-Roy’s personal
superintendance of, or benevolent intentions towards these four
people, but they will afford him any assistance in maintaining
and educating them in England, and will give them a passage home
again.’

“In consequence of this assurance, I now beg that you will draw
their Lordships’ attention to the circumstance of an eruption
having broken out upon one of the Fuegian men, since he was
vaccinated, which is supposed, by the medical officers of the
hospital, to be the small-pox.

“As the other three individuals have been always in company with
him, it is to be feared that they also are affected; and as the
vaccination has not yet taken a proper effect, it is the opinion
of the medical officers that it would be safer to receive them
into the hospital, until the present critical period is passed,
than to allow them to remain in private care.

“I have further to request, that my late coxswain, James Bennett,
may be permitted to accompany, and remain with the Fuegians,
in order to attend upon them, in the event of their Lordships
allowing them to be admitted into the hospital; and I hope, Sir,
that the peculiar nature of the case may be thought to justify
this application.

“I have, &c.
ROBERT FITZ-ROY, Commander.”
“The Secretary
of the Admiralty.

Admiralty-Office, 10th Nov. 1830.
“Sir,

“I am commanded by my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty to
acquaint you, in answer to your letter of this day’s date, that
directions have been given for the admission of the four Fuegians
therein alluded to, into the Naval Hospital at Plymouth, and that
James Bennett be allowed to attend them, agreeably with your
request.

“I am, Sir, &c.
(Signed) “JOHN BARROW.”
“Commander Fitz-Roy.

The Admiralty having thus sanctioned the admission of the Fuegians into one of the best hospitals, and assured that they could not be under better treatment than that of the well-known gentlemen whom I have mentioned, I felt less anxiety in leaving them for a time, as I was obliged to do, in order to attend to duties connected with the survey; but I had hardly reached London, when a letter from Dr. Dickson informed me of the untimely fate of Boat Memory. He had been vaccinated four different times; but the three first operations had failed, and the last had just taken effect, when the disease showed itself. It was thought that the fatal contagion must have attacked him previously.

This poor fellow was a very great favourite with all who knew him, as well as with myself. He had a good disposition, very good abilities, and though born a savage, had a pleasing, intelligent appearance. He was quite an exception to the general character of the Fuegians, having good features and a well-proportioned frame. It may readily be supposed that this was a severe blow to me, for I was deeply sensible of the responsibility which had been incurred; and, however unintentionally, could not but feel how much I was implicated in shortening his existence. Neither of the others were attacked, the last vaccination having taken full effect; but they were allowed to remain in the hospital for some time longer, until I could make satisfactory arrangements for them. While they were under Dr. Dickson’s care, in the hospital, his own children had the measles; and thinking that it would be a good opportunity to carry the little Fuegian girl through that illness, he prepared her for it, and then took her into his house, among his own children; where she had a very favourable attack, and recovered thoroughly.

Of course, I was anxious that no time should be lost in arranging a plan for their education and maintenance; and deeming the Church Missionary Society to be in some measure interested about the project I had in view, I applied to their secretary, through whose kindness I became acquainted with the Rev. Joseph Wigram; to whom I am under great obligations for the friendly interest taken at that time in my wishes with respect to the Fuegians, and for introducing them and myself to the notice of the Rev. William Wilson, of Walthamstow. Mr. Wilson at once relieved my mind from a load of uncertainty and anxiety, by saying that they should be received into his parish, and that he would talk to the master of the Infant School about taking them into his house, as boarders and pupils. In a short time, it was arranged that the schoolmaster should receive, and take entire charge of them, while they remained in England, and should be paid by me for their board and lodging, for his own trouble, and for all contingent expenses.

Mr. Wilson proposed to keep a watchful eye over them himself, and give advice from time to time to their guardian and instructor. Mr. Wigram also lived at Walthamstow, and as he would have frequent opportunities of offering a useful caution, in case that the numerous calls upon Mr. Wilson’s attention should at any time render additional thoughts for the Fuegians an unfair or unpleasant trouble to him--I did indeed think that no plan could be devised offering a better prospect; and immediately made arrangements for conveying them to London.

The inside of a stage-coach was taken, and under the guidance of Mr. Murray (the Beagle’s late master), attended by James Bennett, they arrived in Piccadilly, and were immediately carried to Walthamstow, without attracting any notice. Mr. Murray told me that they seemed to enjoy their journey in the coach, and were very much struck by the repeated changing of horses.

I took them myself from the coach-office to Walthamstow; they were glad to see me, but seemed bewildered by the multitude of new objects. Passing Charing Cross, there was a start and exclamation of astonishment from York. ‘Look!’ he said, fixing his eyes on the lion upon Northumberland House, which he certainly thought alive, and walking there. I never saw him show such sudden emotion at any other time. They were much pleased with the rooms prepared for them at Walthamstow; and the schoolmaster and his wife were equally pleased to find the future inmates of their house very well disposed, quiet, and cleanly people; instead of fierce and dirty savages.

At Walthamstow they remained from December 1830 till October 1831; and during all that time were treated with the utmost kindness by the benevolent men whose names I have mentioned; by their families, and by many others in the neighbourhood, as well as casual visitors, who became much interested in their welfare, and from time to time gave them several valuable presents.

The attention of their instructor was directed to teaching them English, and the plainer truths of Christianity, as the first object; and the use of common tools, a slight acquaintance with husbandry, gardening, and mechanism, as the second. Considerable progress was made by the boy and girl; but the man was hard to teach, except mechanically. He took interest in smith’s or carpenter’s work, and paid attention to what he saw and heard about animals; but he reluctantly assisted in garden work, and had a great dislike to learning to read. By degrees, a good many words of their own languages were collected (the boy’s differed from that of the man and the girl), and some interesting information was acquired, respecting their own native habits and ideas. They gave no particular trouble; were very healthy; and the two younger ones became great favourites wherever they were known. Sometimes I took them with me to see a friend or relation of my own, who was anxious to question them, and contribute something to the increasing; stock of serviceable articles which I was collecting for their use, when they should return to Tierra del Fuego. My sister was a frequent benefactress; and they often talked, both then and afterwards, of going to see ‘Cappen Sisser.’

During the summer of 1831, his late Majesty expressed to Colonel Wood a wish to see the Fuegians, and they were taken to St. James’s. His Majesty asked a great deal about their country, as well as themselves; and I hope I may be permitted to remark that, during an equal space of time, no person ever asked me so many sensible and thoroughly pertinent questions respecting the Fuegians and their country also relating to the survey in which I had myself been engaged, as did his Majesty. Her Majesty Queen Adelaide also honoured the Fuegians by her presence, and by acts of genuine kindness which they could appreciate, and never forgot. She left the room, in which they were, for a minute, and returned with one of her own bonnets, which she put upon the girl’s head. Her Majesty then put one of her rings upon the girl’s finger, and gave her a sum of money to buy an outfit of clothes when she should leave England to return to her own country.

I must now revert to matters more immediately connected with the Beagle’s second voyage.

My own official duties, relating to the survey, were completed in March 1831; when my late commanding officer, Captain King, addressed a letter to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty expressive of his approbation of the part I had taken, under his direction, and recommending me to their Lordships.[1]

From various conversations which I had with Captain King, during the earlier period of my service under him, I had been led to suppose that the survey of the southern coasts of South America would be continued; and to some ship, ordered upon such a service, I had looked for an opportunity of restoring the Fuegians to their native land.

Finding, however, to my great disappointment, that an entire change had taken place in the views of the Lords of the Admiralty, and that there was no intention to prosecute the survey, I naturally became anxious about the Fuegians; and, in June, having no hopes of a man-of-war being sent to Tierra del Fuego, and feeling too much bound to these natives to trust them in any other kind of vessel, unless with myself--because of the risk that would attend their being landed anywhere, excepting on the territories of their own tribes--I made an agreement[2] with the owner of a small merchant-vessel, the John of London, to carry me and five other persons to such places in South America as I wished to visit, and eventually to land me at Valparaiso.

My arrangements were all made, and James Bennett, who was to accompany me, had already purchased a number of goats, with which I purposed stocking some of the islands of Tierra del Fuego--when a kind uncle, to whom I mentioned my plan, went to the Admiralty, and soon afterwards told me that I should be appointed to the command of the Chanticleer, to go to Tierra del Fuego.

My agreement with the owner of the John was, however, in full force, and I could not alter it without paying a large proportion of the whole sum agreed on for the voyage.

The Chanticleer was not, upon examination, found quite fit for service; and, instead of her, I was again appointed to my well-tried little vessel, the Beagle. My commission was dated the 27th of June, and on the same day two of my most esteemed friends, Lieutenants Wickham and Sulivan, were also appointed.

* * * * *

While the Beagle was fitting out at Devonport, I received the following letter from Mr. Wilson.

Walthamstow, 5th Aug. 1831.
“Sir,

“I am informed that the Fuegians who have been lately resident in
this place are shortly to return to their native country under
your care. Will you permit me to ask whether, if two individuals
should volunteer to accompany and remain with them, in order to
attempt to teach them such useful arts as may be thought suited
to their gradual civilization, you will give them a passage
in the Beagle? and whether, upon your arrival on the coast of
Tierra del Fuego, you will be able to give them some assistance
in establishing a friendly intercourse with, and settlement
amongst the natives of that country? Would these individuals be
required to pay you for their passage, and maintenance on board?
or would his Majesty’s Government allow them to be maintained
on board at the public expense? Do you think that you would be
able to visit them, after their first settlement, supposing so
desirable an object should be attained, in order to give them
some encouragement, and perhaps assistance; or to remove them if
they should find it impracticable to continue their residence
among the natives?

“A subscription has been set on foot by gentlemen who are
extremely desirous that this opportunity of extending the
benefits of civilization should not be lost; and, in consequence
of their united wishes, I now take the liberty of asking these
questions.

“I am, &c.
(Signed) “WILLIAM WILSON.”
“To Captain Fitz-Roy, R.N.”

After reading this communication, I wrote to the Secretary of the Admiralty, and enclosed a copy of Mr. Wilson’s letter. The answer is subjoined.

Admiralty Office, 10th Aug. 1831.
“Sir,

“Having laid before my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty your
letter of yesterday’s date, with the letter which accompanied it,
from the Rev. William Wilson, respecting the natives of Tierra
del Fuego who were brought to England in his Majesty’s ship
Beagle; I am commanded to acquaint you that their Lordships will
give the necessary orders for the passage of these individuals,
and of the two persons who are to accompany them; and that your
request to be allowed to visit these people, after their arrival,
will be taken into consideration in preparing your instructions.

“I am, &c.
(Signed) “JOHN BARROW.”
“To Commander Fitz-Roy,
“H.M.S. Beagle.”

In consequence of this reply, it was wished that two persons should accompany the Fuegians, and endeavour to pass some time in their country: but it was not easy to find individuals sufficiently qualified, and in whom confidence could be placed, who would willingly undertake such an enterprise. One young man was selected by Mr. Wilson, but a companion for him could not be found in time to embark on board the Beagle.

In October the party from Walthamstow arrived, in a steam-vessel, at Plymouth, and not a few boats were required to transport to our ship the large cargo of clothes, tools, crockery-ware, books, and various things which the families at Walthamstow and other kind-hearted persons had given. In the small hold of the Beagle, it was not easy to find places for the stowage of so many extra stores; and when dividing the contents of large chests, in order to pack them differently, some very fair jokes were enjoyed by the seamen, at the expense of those who had ordered complete sets of crockery-ware, without desiring that any selection of articles should be made.

Instructions were given, by the Secretary of the Church Missionary Society, to the young man who wished to accompany the Fuegians, which will be found in the Appendix; and although he was rather too young, and less experienced than might have been wished, his character and conduct had been such as to give very fair grounds for anticipating that he would, at least, sincerely endeavour to do his utmost in a situation so difficult and trying as that for which he volunteered.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Appendix.

[2] Ibid.