Chapter I: Front Matter

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PART OF
TIERRA DEL FUEGO
from
H.M.S. Beagle
1834

Note. _Staton Land from H.M.S. Chanticleer and part of Strait of
Magalhaens from H.M.S. Adventure._

It is high water in the Strait of Le Maire at five but the
flood tide continues to run northward until about six P.M. on
the day of new moon. The flood tide is much stronger than the
Ebb along all this coast and it sets from the Westward, but
Northward of Staton Island and the Strait of Le Maire the flood
tide runs North-westward.

Although five and six are the average times the tides vary much
being sometimes nearly an hour earlier & sometimes as much
later on the day of full or new moon.

_Published according to Act of Parliament by Henry Colburn 1839._]

CHILOE
_and Parts of the_
ADJACENT COASTS
_from_
H.M.S. BEAGLE
1835.

_Published according to Act of Parliament by Henry Colburn 1839._]

VOYAGES

OF THE

ADVENTURE AND BEAGLE.

VOLUME II.

C. Martens. T. Landseer.

FUEGIAN.

(YAPOO TEKEENICA)

_AT PORTRAIT COVE_

Published by Henry Colburn, Great Marlborough Street, 1838.]

NARRATIVE

OF THE

SURVEYING VOYAGES

OF HIS MAJESTY’S SHIPS

ADVENTURE AND BEAGLE,

BETWEEN

THE YEARS 1826 AND 1836,

DESCRIBING THEIR

EXAMINATION OF THE SOUTHERN SHORES

OF

SOUTH AMERICA,

AND

THE BEAGLE’S CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF THE GLOBE.

IN THREE VOLUMES.
VOL. II.

LONDON:
HENRY COLBURN, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.

1839.

LONDON:

Printed by J. L. Cox and Sons, 75, Great Queen Street,
Lincoln’s-Inn Fields.

VOLUME II.

PROCEEDINGS

OF

THE SECOND EXPEDITION,

1831-1836,

UNDER THE COMMAND OF

CAPTAIN ROBERT FITZ-ROY, R.N.

CONTENTS.

VOLUME II.

CHAPTER I.
PAGE
Explanation--Natives of Tierra del Fuego, or Fuegians--Passages
across the Equator (Atlantic)--Letters--Small-pox--Hospital
--Boat--Memory--Fuegians in London--At Walthamstow--At St.
James’s--Beagle recommissioned--Correspondence with Mr. Wilson
--Fuegians re-embark 1

CHAPTER II.

Hydrographer’s Opinion--Continuation of Survey--Chain of Meridian
Distances--Efficient Arrangements--Repair and raise Deck--Outfit
--Boats--Lightning-Conductors--Rudder--Stove--Windlass
--Chronometers--Mr. Darwin--Persons on board--Changes--List of
those who returned--Supplies--Admiralty Instructions--Memorandum
--Hydrographer’s Memorandum 17

CHAPTER III.

Ready for sea--Detained--Sail from England--Well provided--Bay of
Biscay--Compasses--Local attraction--Eight Stones--Madeira
--Deception--Squall--Teneriffe--Santa Cruz--Quarantine--Squalls
--Cape Verde Islands--Port Praya--Produce--Archilla--Bad season
--St. Paul Rocks--Cross Equator--Fernando de Noronha--Bahia
--Slavery--Abrolhos--Cape Frio 42

CHAPTER IV.

Loss of the Thetis--Causes of her wreck--Approach to Rio de Janeiro
--Owen Glendower--Disturbance in Rio Harbour--Observations
--Chronometers--Return to Bahia--Deaths--Macacu--Malaria--Return
to Rio de Janeiro--Meridian Distances--Regatta--Fuegians--Lightning
--Leave Rio--Equipment--Santa Martha--Weather--Santa Catharina
--Santos--River Plata--Pamperoes--Gales off Buenos Ayres--Monte
Video--Point Piedras--Cape San Antonio--River Plata--Currents
--Tides--Barometer--Absence of Trees--Cattle 67

CHAPTER V.

Eastern Pampa Coast--Point Medanos--Mar-chiquito--Ranges of Hills
--Direction of Inlets, Shoals, and Rivers--Cape Corrientes--Tosca
Coast--Blanco Bay--Mount Hermoso--Port Belgrano--Mr. Harris
--Ventana Mountain--View--Argentine--Commandant--Major--Situation
--Toriano--Indians--Fossils--Animals--Fish--Climate--Pumice--Ashes
--Conway--Deliberations--Consequent Decision--Responsibility
incurred--Paz--Liebre--Gale--Hunger--Fossils at Hermoso--Fossils
at Point Alta--Express sent to Buenos Ayres--Suspicions and
absurd alarm--Rodriguez 97

CHAPTER VI.

Beagle sails with Paz and Liebre--Part company--Beagle visits
Buenos Ayres--Nautical remarks on the Plata--Sail from Monte Video
for San Blas--Lieut. Wickham and tenders--Butterflies--Sail for
Tierra del Fuego--White water--Icebergs--Rocks--Cape San
Sebastian--Oens men--Cape San Diego--Good Success Bay--Natives
--Guanacoes--Cape Horn--St. Martin Cove--Gales--Heavy Seas--Nassau
Bay--Goree Road--Prepare to land Matthews and the Fuegians 114

CHAPTER VII.

Southern Aborigines of South America 129

CHAPTER VIII.

Horse Indians of Patagonia:--Head--Physiognomy--Stature--Wanderings
--Clothing--Armour--Arms--Food--Chase--Property--Huts--Wizards
--Marriage--Children--Health--Illness--Death--Burial--War
--Horsemanship--Gambling--Caciques--Superstitions--Warfare
--Morality--Disposition--Chups--Zapallos 144

CHAPTER IX.

Features--Form--Paint--Disposition--Food--Doctor--Religious ideas
--Superstitions--Marriage--Death--Burial--Cannibalism--Weapons
--Women’s occupation--Training--Obtaining food--Fire--Language
--Sagacity and local knowledge--Battles--Ceremony--Natives in
Trinidad Gulf--Obstruction Sound--Potatoes--Dogs 175

CHAPTER X.

Set out to land Matthews and the Fuegians--Their meeting with
Natives--Supposed Volcano--Dream--Oens-men--Scene--Arrival at
Woollȳa--Encampment--Concourse of Natives--Jemmy’s Family--Wigwams
--Gardens--Distrust--Experiment--Westward Exploration--Remove
Matthews--Revisit Woollȳa--Gale--Sail for the Falkland Islands 202

CHAPTER XI.

Historical Sketch of the Falkland Islands 228

CHAPTER XII.

First Appearance of Falklands--Tides--Currents--Winds--Seasons
--Temperature--Rain--Health--Dangers--Cautions--View--Settlement
--Animals--Foxes--Varieties--Seal--Whales--Fish and Fishery--Birds
--Brushwood--Peat--Pasture--Potash--Orchilla--Grazing--Corn--Fruit
--Vegetables--Trees--Plants--Land--Situation of principal
Settlement--Prospective advantages--Suggestions--Vernet’s
Establishment--Reflections 241

CHAPTER XIII.

Anchor in Berkeley Sound--Le Magellan--British flag hoisted--Ruined
Settlement--Mr. Hellyer drowned--Burial--French Whalers--Unicorn
--Adventure--Squall--Flashes--Fossils--Killing Wild Cattle--Sail
from Falklands--River Negro--Maldonado--Constitucion--Heave down,
copper, and refit Adventure--Signs of weather--Sound banks--Los
Cesares--Settle with Harris, and part company--Blanco Bay--Return
to Maldonado--Monte Video 269

CHAPTER XIV.

Paz and Liebre begin work--Chronometers--Fish--Animals--San Blas
--Wrecks--River Negro--Del Carmen--Inhabitants--Indians--Trade
--Williams drowned--Port Desire--Gale--Salinas--Lightning--Bones
in Tomb--Trees--Dangers--New Bay--Cattle--Seal--Soil--River Chupat
--Drift Timber--Fertility--Wild Cattle--Valdes Creek--Imminent
danger--Tide Races--Bar of the Negro--Hunting--Attack of Indians
--Villarino--Falkner 295

CHAPTER XV.

Beagle and Adventure sail from Monte Video--Port Desire--Bellaco
Rock--Refraction--Port San Julian--Viedma--Drake--Magalhaens
--Patagonians--Port Famine--San Sebastian Bay--Woollȳa--Jemmy
--Story--Treachery--Oens men--Improvement--Gratitude--Falklands
--Events--Capt. Seymour--Search for Murderers--Lieut. Smith
--Brisbane--Wreck--Sufferings--Lieutenant Clive--Sail from
Falklands 316

CHAPTER XVI.

Soundings--Anchor in Santa Cruz--Lay Beagle ashore for repair
--Prepare to ascend river--Set out--View of surrounding country
--Rapid stream--Cold--Ostriches--Guanacoes--Indians--Fish--Cliffs
--Firewood--Lava Cliffs--Difficulties--Chalia--See Andes--Farthest
West--View round--Return--Danger--Guanaco hunters--Puma--Cat
--Tides--Sail from Santa Cruz 336

CHAPTER XVII.

Beagle and Adventure sail from Port Famine through Magdalen and
Cockburn Channel--Enter Pacific--Death of Mr. Rowlett--Chilóe--Chile
--Government--Adventure sold--Consequent changes--Plans--Mr. Low
--Chonos--Lieut. Sulivan’s party--Moraleda--Ladrilleros--De Vea
--Sharp--San Andres--Vallenar--Mr. Stokes--San Estevan--Distressed
sailors--Anna Pink Bay--Port Low--Potatoes--Indian names--Huafo
--Volcano--Chilotes--Aborigines--Militia--Freebooters--Climate
--Docks--Tides--Witchcraft--Alerse--Calbucanos--Cesares--Search
for men--Meteors 359

CHAPTER XVIII.

Leave Chilóe--Valdivia--Earthquake--Aborigines--Traditions--Words
--Convicts--Tolten--Boroa--Imperial--Mocha--Shocks of Earthquake
--Anchor off Talcahuano--Ruins--Account of a great Earthquake,
which destroyed the city of Concepcion; and was felt from Chilóe
to Copiapó; from Juan Fernandes to Mendoza 396

CHAPTER XIX.

Mocha--Movement of Land--Penco--Ulloa--Shells--Coal--Maule
--Topocalma--Aconcagua--Valparaiso--Horcon--Papudo--Pichidanque
--Conchali--Herradura--Coquimbo--Wreck--Challenger--Blonde--Ride
--Estate--Colcura--Villagran--Arauco--Former caciques--Colocolo
--Caupolican--Scenery--Quiapo--Night travelling--Leübu--Tucapel
--Valdivia--Lautaro--Challenger 419

CHAPTER XX.

Challenger sails--Sounds off Mocha--Wrecked on the mainland--Crew
saved--Stores landed--Camp formed--Great exertions, and excellent
conduct--Mr. Consul Rouse--Leübu--Plague of mice--Curious rats
--Return to Blonde--Ulpu--Araucanian dress--Arauco--‘Boroanos’
--Tubul--Bar rivers--Apples--Ferry--Blonde sails--Seek for the
Leübu--Schooner Carmen--Errors and delay--Embark Challenger’s crew
--Rescue the Carmen--Talcahuano--New Concepcion--Valparaiso
--Coquimbo--Challenger’s sail in Conway--Reflections 451

CHAPTER XXI.

Andes--Aconcagua--Villarica--Islay--Powder--Callao--Rejoin Beagle
--Constitucion--Plans--Wilson--Carrasco--‘Galāpagos’--Iguanas--Lava
Rocks--Land-tortoises--Craters--Turtle--Shells--Dye--Volcanoes
--Settlement--Albemarle Island--Cyclopian Scene--Tagus Cove--Tide
Ripples--Settlers--Climate--Salt--Dampier--Birds--Transportation
of Tortoises--Currents--Temperature of Water 481

CHAPTER XXII.

Dangerous Archipelago of the Low Islands--Krusenstern--Squalls
--Discoveries--Otaheite--Matavai--Natives--Houses--Point Venus
--Theft--Singing--Pomare--Sugar--Papiete--Church--Mr. Pritchard
--Thierry--Shells--Mr. Nott--Bible--Paamuto Natives--Falkner--‘Ua’
--Papawa--Relics--Divine Service--Hitote--Henry--Audience--Queen
--Missionaries--Roman Catholics--Forming head--Meeting at Papiete
--Dress--Behaviour--Eloquence of natives--Honourable feelings
--Interesting discussion--Venilia 506

CHAPTER XXIII.

Continuation of the Meeting at Papiete--Questions--Explanation
--Meeting ends--Pilotage--Mr. Wilson--Queen’s Visit--Fireworks
--School--Intelligence--Letters--Inhabitants--Dress--Conduct
--Abolition of Spirits--Defect in Character--Domestic Scene--Aura
Island--Newton at Bow Island--Pearl Oyster Shells--Divers
--Steering--Queen’s Letter--Collection--Sail from Otaheite
--Whylootacke--Flight of Birds--Navigators--Friendly--Feejee
Islands--English Chief--Precautions--La Pérouse 540

CHAPTER XXIV.

New Zealand--Bay of Islands--Kororareka--Fences--Flag--Paihia
--Natives--Features--Tattow--Population--Colour--Manner--War-Canoes
--Prospects--Mackintosh--Fern--Church--Resident--Vines--Villages
--Houses--Planks--Cooking--Church--Marae--First Mission--Settlers
--Pomare--Marion--Cawa-Cawa--Meeting--Chiefs--Rats--Spirits--Wine
--Nets--Burial--Divine Service--Singing--Causes of Disturbances
--Reflections and Suggestions--Polynesian Interests--Resources for
Ships in the Pacific 564

CHAPTER XXV.

Waimate--Cultivation--Flax--Apteryx--Gardens--Missionaries--Farm
--Barn--Mill--Grave of Shunghi--Horses--Kauri Pine--Keri-keri
--Children--Waripoaka--La Favorite--Political condition--Relics
--Images, or Amulets--Mats--Leave New Zealand--Remarks--Intercourse
--Convicts--Effects of Missionary exertion--Irregular Settlements
--Trade--Residents and Consuls--Missionary Embarrassments--Society’s
Lands--Discontent of Settlers--Purchase of Land--Influence of
Missionaries--Their sphere of action 598

CHAPTER XXVI.

North Cape of New Zealand--Superstitions--Cook’s great Lizard
--Traditions--Currents--Thermometer--Sydney--Dr. Darwin--Drought
--Aqueduct--Position--Disadvantages--Ill-acquired wealth of
Convicts, or Emancipists--Hobart Town--Advantages of Van Diemen’s
Land--King George Sound--Natives--Dance--Keeling Islands--Tides
--Soundings--Coral formations--Malays--Fish--Weather--Mauritius
--Cape of Good Hope--St. Helena--Ascension--Bahia--Pernambuco
--Cape Verde Islands--Azores--Arrive in England 619

CHAPTER XXVII.

Remarks on the early migrations of the human race 640