Chapter I: Part 1

NARRATIVE

OF THE

OPERATIONS AND RECENT DISCOVERIES

IN

EGYPT AND NUBIA.

LONDON:
PRINTED BY THOMAS DAVISON, WHITEFRIARS.

G. BELZONI.

_London, Published by J. Murray, Dec. 1, 1821_
]

NARRATIVE
OF THE
OPERATIONS
AND
RECENT DISCOVERIES
WITHIN THE
PYRAMIDS, TEMPLES, TOMBS, AND EXCAVATIONS,
IN
EGYPT AND NUBIA;
AND OF A
JOURNEY TO THE COAST OF THE RED SEA, IN SEARCH OF THE ANCIENT BERENICE;
AND ANOTHER TO
THE OASIS OF JUPITER AMMON.

BY G. BELZONI.

_THIRD EDITION._

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. I.

LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET.

1822.

PREFACE.

As I made my discoveries alone, I have been anxious to write my book by myself, though in so doing the reader will consider me, and with great propriety, guilty of temerity; but the public will perhaps gain in the fidelity of my narrative what it loses in elegance. I am not an Englishman, but I prefer that my readers should receive from myself, as well as I am able to describe them, an account of my proceedings in Egypt, in Nubia, on the coast of the Red Sea, and in the Oasis; rather than run the risk of having my meaning misrepresented by another. If I am intelligible, it is all that I can expect. I shall state nothing but the plain matters of fact, as they occurred to me in these countries, in 1815–16–17–18 and 19. A description of the means I took in making my researches, the difficulties I had to encounter, and how I overcame them, will give a tolerably correct idea of the manners and customs of the people I had to deal with. Perhaps I have spoken too much of the obstacles thrown in my way, by the jealousy and intriguing spirit of my adversaries, without considering that the public will care little about my private quarrels, which to me, of course, appeared of the greatest consequence on the spot, in these countries. But I hope that a little indulgence may be allowed to my mortified feelings, particularly when I reflect that it was through them that I was compelled to leave Egypt before I had completed my plans.

I must apologize also for the few humble observations I have ventured to give on some historical points; but I had become so familiar with the sight of temples, tombs, and pyramids, that I could not help forming some speculation on their origin and construction. The scholar and learned traveller will smile at my presumption, but do they always agree themselves in their opinions on matters of this sort, or even on those of much less difficulty? Much has been written on Egypt and Nubia by the travellers of the last century, by Denon, and the French sçavans, whose general account of these countries has scarcely left any thing unnoticed; and by Mr. Hamilton, to the accuracy of the latter of whom I can bear the most ample testimony. But what can I say of the late Sheik Burckhardt, who was so well acquainted with the language and manners of these people, that none of them suspected him to be an European? His account of the tribes in these countries is so minutely correct, that little or nothing remains for observation in modern Egypt and Nubia.

I have, however, one more remark to make on myself, which I am afraid the reader will think very vain: it is this, that no traveller had ever such opportunities of studying the customs of the natives as were afforded to me, for none had ever to deal with them in so peculiar a manner. My constant occupation was searching after antiquities, and this led me in the various transactions I had with them, to observe the real character of the Turks, Arabs, Nubians, Bedoweens, and Ababdy tribes. Thus I was very differently circumstanced from a common traveller, who goes merely to make his remarks on the country and its antiquities, instead of having to persuade these ignorant and superstitious people to undertake a hard task, in labours, with which they were previously totally unacquainted.

My native place is the city of Padua: I am of a Roman family, which had resided there for many years. The state and troubles of Italy in 1800, which are too well known to require any comment from me, compelled me to leave it, and from that time I have visited different parts of Europe, and suffered many vicissitudes. The greater part of my younger days I passed in Rome, the former abode of my ancestors, where I was preparing myself to become a monk; but the sudden entry of the French army into that city altered the course of my education, and being destined to travel, I have been a wanderer ever since. My family supplied me occasionally with remittances; but as they were not rich, I did not choose to be a burthen to them, and contrived to live on my own industry, and the little knowledge I had acquired in various branches. I turned my chief attention to hydraulics, a science that I had learned in Rome, which I found much to my advantage, and which was ultimately the very cause of my going to Egypt. For I had good information, that a hydraulic machine would be of great service in that country, to irrigate the fields, which want water only, to make them produce at any time of the year. But I am rather anticipating. In 1803 I arrived in England, soon after which I married, and, after residing in it nine years, I formed the resolution of going to the south of Europe. Taking Mrs. Belzoni with me, I visited Portugal, Spain, and Malta, from which latter place we embarked for Egypt, where we remained from 1815 to 1819. Here I had the good fortune to be the discoverer of many remains of antiquity of that primitive nation. I succeeded in opening one of the two famous Pyramids of Ghizeh, as well as several of the tombs of the Kings at Thebes. Among the latter, that which has been pronounced by one of the most distinguished scholars of the age to be the tomb of Psammuthis, is at this moment the principal, the most perfect and splendid monument in that country. The celebrated bust of young Memnon, which I brought from Thebes, is now in the British Museum; and the alabaster sarcophagus, found in the tombs of the kings, is on its way to England.

Near the second cataract of the Nile, I opened the temple of Ybsambul; then made a journey to the coast of the Red Sea, to the city of Berenice, and afterwards an excursion in the western Elloah, or Oasis. I now embarked for Europe, and after an absence of twenty years, returned to my native land, and to the bosom of my family; from whence I proceeded to England.

On my arrival in Europe, I found so many erroneous accounts had been given to the public of my operations and discoveries in Egypt, that it appeared to be my duty to publish a plain statement of facts; and should any one call its correctness in question, I hope they will do it openly, that I may be able to prove the truth of my assertions.

PREFACE
TO THE
SECOND EDITION.

Having experienced the public condescension towards me, not only in the acceptance of my Narrative, but in their general approbation, I conceive it my duty to express my sincere feeling of gratitude and devotion towards the British nation; and should chance again put me in the way of dedicating my humble services to Great Britain, I shall never fail to remember the generous enthusiasm by which the simple account of my operations, &c. has been received. I think it also my duty to make some remarks on events which have happened since the publication of my work, and which are calculated to strengthen my opinion in various points, in particular concerning the Temple of Jupiter Ammon in the Oasis el Cassar, and on the Egyptian Labyrinth. According to the descriptions of my old guides, Herodotus and Diodorus, I was led to suppose that the Oasis el Cassar might have been the seat of Jupiter Ammon, as I mention in vol. ii. page 210. It agreed in all points—in its products, and in the distance from the sea, mentioned by Herodotus, cap. clxxxi. Speaking of the Libyans who inhabited the sea-coast, he tells us, that penetrating the Desert for ten days’ journey west, pillars of salt are discovered, from the summits of which flows a stream of water equally cool and sweet; he speaks also of the celebrated Fountain of the Sun, which I mention in my Narrative, vol. ii. page 215. The amazing quantity of salt, the distance, and the fountain, together with many other concomitant circumstances, would have been sufficient proof to induce a hasty writer to conclude that he had reached the seat of Jupiter Ammon; but as I do not possess either the talent or the skill to enable me to judge at first view, caution is therefore the only method I can adopt previous to giving my firm opinion. The Oasis named Siewha was the only rival to that of El Cassar; its distance from the sea, its situation and products, combined to favour a supposition that it might have been the seat of Ammon, though it has not the above fountain. Mr. Brown, the celebrated traveller, and Hermann, have visited that Oasis; but neither asserts positively that place to have been the seat of Jupiter Ammon.

I have the pleasure to acquaint my kind reader, that since my first edition has been published, intelligence has been received that Mahomed Ali, the Pacha of Egypt, had sent an expedition of three hundred soldiers to Siewha; and that two European travellers, Messrs. Linon and Ricci, took that opportunity to visit the above Oasis; and that having examined it at their leisure, they found but scanty and insignificant remains of antiquity. Admitting, therefore, that Siewha is not likely to be the sacred spot where Ammon had his temple, what other can it be in these deserts but that which I visited? There are, indeed, two other Oases, that of Siout and that of Esne, (the Augila and the Garamantes mentioned by Herodotus, cap. clxxxii.); but these are so situated that they confirm me in my first opinion. According to that author, the first is about ten days farther on from the Oasis el Cassar; and the second is at other ten days from that, which is towards the Lotophagi. Having considered all these circumstances, with the ruins and tombs I found in the Oasis el Cassar, which has not yet been visited by any European, I hope my reader will not condemn me if I venture to assert, that the seat of Jupiter Ammon cannot be any other than the Oasis el Cassar, described in vol. ii. pages 211, 212.

The next is the Egyptian Labyrinth. There is scarcely any point in the various opinions of the antiquarians which has been so much disputed as this: the seat of the Egyptian Labyrinth is so elaborately described by Herodotus and Pliny, that one would suppose one could go straight to it, and find it there; but to the disappointment of travellers, there is not a single vestige whatsoever left to prove its situation. Many industrious antiquarians have formed various conjectures on that subject, but none give us a positive idea of the seat of this stupendous edifice. Many inquiries have been made of me since the appearance of my publication, and I have been almost blamed for not having found its seat. One of the northern journals supposes that I have positively trod upon it, according to my own description, without perceiving that I was on these magnificent ruins. This the writer supposes to be that very place which I called the city of Bacchus, as described in vol. ii. page 158, and plate 23.

The supposition, which arose from the circumstances of my having found several cellars under ground, which would agree thus far with the description of the Labyrinth, is very ingenious and fair from one who has not seen that place; but to prove that I have not committed such an error, I shall only refer to the description of those magnificent ruins, given by Herodotus in cap. cxlviii. and to the description I give of several cellars constructed under ground of sun-burnt bricks, and not more than ten or twelve feet square: as I think the comparison with these 1500 apartments, courts, and stupendous halls covered with white marble, of a sublime workmanship, will fully persuade my reader, that the most enthusiastic mind could not find the smallest ground to suppose that spot to have been the great Labyrinth of Egypt.

The next, and perhaps the most interesting point, will give more ground to criticism than any other part of this work. It is my asserting that the Egyptians knew how to form arches with the key-stone. I must certainly acknowledge, that in an enlightened age and country like this, it is somewhat presumptuous on my part, to make an assertion which will, if proved right, change the epochs and the origin of arches. I had time to reflect; I took the opinion of many wise and learned men on this subject; and I fully ascertained that they are still in the dark as to whether the Egyptians did or did not know the construction of arches with the key-stone. The arches I have described to be in Thebes are supposed by some to be Roman, by others Saracen; but none can decide, or give any other reason that the Egyptians did not know the use of arches, than that they built no bridges; and that the Greeks themselves had no bridges, till a certain epoch, for want of knowing how to make arches.

In the midst of all these several suppositions, I beg my reader to permit me to give my humble opinion, as it is said that every one can speak his own. In the first instance, I beg to observe, that the manner of building and erecting walls, by the Egyptians, is so totally different from that of any other nation, that if any traveller please to pay a little attention to all he sees in Egypt, particularly on what is known to be done by other nations, and then to compare them with the Egyptian works, he will find that there is a peculiarity in the latter, which renders them totally distinct from any other. I will not enter on the stony works, as that would carry me too far to explain the point intended; but confine myself to the brick work, as my principal document, by which I shall endeavour to persuade my reader, that the Egyptians knew how to construct arches by the key-stone, as we do in these days. The reason I give in this volume, at page 273, will perhaps be convincing enough to any one who will go and make his observations on the spot, as he will see clearly that none but the Egyptians could have taken the amazing trouble and labour to erect such walls, to no other purpose than to enclose their tombs; and it cannot be said that the Greeks built those arches in Thebes; for if the Egyptians had not known that art, the Greeks must have been equally ignorant of it.

The Romans are the only people who, according to some, could have erected these arches. I cannot agree with such supposition, as I cannot find a reason why the Romans should make such laborious work to preserve the Egyptian tombs, at an epoch when the Egyptian nation was almost extinct, and regarded by the Romans themselves as a conquered nation, and especially, when their old rites and customs were almost lost in oblivion. I cannot see, I repeat, what interest the Romans could have for so doing: I must therefore persist in observing, that these works are so totally different from the Roman manner of building, and so peculiar to the Egyptians, that I am certain if any impartial traveller will make the above observations in examining the difference of the works of other nations, particularly the Saracens, which are to be seen in various places in Thebes, and indeed, near to these very arches, and built with the same bricks from the ruins of the Egyptians, he will not hesitate to conclude that these arches were built by the Egyptians.

The only point which could be produced, perhaps, against my assertion is, that the Greeks might come to the knowledge of the arch, and introduce it into Egypt at an epoch when the rites and religious ceremonies of the Egyptians were still in force, I mean under the early Ptolemies; but how this can agree with the epoch of the first invention of the arch, I leave to others more instructed than myself to consider, and even then it still will prove that these arches now existing in Thebes were made by the Egyptians.

_Further Observations on the Arches erected with Key-stones._

Since the publication of my work on Egypt, &c. intelligence has been received from that country, stating that Mahomed Ali’s expedition reached Dongola. Some English and French travellers, who followed these troops, observed several small pyramids on each side of the Nile: connected with which they found some small temples, which, according to their account, are erected on vaults or arches with key-stones. As the fronts of these temples are of Egyptian architecture, and connected with the said vaults, the arches themselves must consequently have been erected by the Egyptians, a circumstance which strongly corroborates my opinion given in vol. i. page 273, viz. that the Egyptians were acquainted with the use of arches made with key-stones, previous to the time of the Greeks.

It would not be improper to observe that we have no account of any other nation beside the Egyptians, having erected pyramids in Egypt or in Ethiopia. From the latitude in which these monuments are situated, they must be of the most primitive ages, probably, long previous to the invasion of the Greeks of these countries; and as the temples are connected with the pyramids, none but the Egyptians could have erected them.

I hope that some more able antiquarian than myself, will take this observation into notice, and by his own more correct remarks prove to the lovers of antiquity and the fine arts, that architecture in some of its branches, is probably of earlier origin than Vitruvius himself has stated it to be.

CONTENTS
OF
VOL. I.

FIRST JOURNEY.

Arrive at Alexandria, 1.

Description of the plague, 2.

Departure for and arrival at Cairo, 5.

Visit the Pyramids—view from the top, 6, 7.

Excursion to the Pyramid of Dajior—return to Cairo, 8.

Become acquainted with Mr. Burckhardt, 10.

Wounded by a Turk on horseback—observations on the Moors from Mecca
during my confinement, 10, 11.

Presented to the Bashaw—rebellion of part of his army, 12, 13.

Danger in proceeding to Cairo—confined to the house in consequence of
the revolution—description of it, 16, 17.

Commenced hydraulic operations, 18.

Soubra, chief residence of the Bashaw, 20.

His manner of living, 21.

He is electrified—description of Zulfur Carcaja, governor of Soubra,
24, 25.

His mode of curing diseases—marriage ceremonies and festivals of the
Arabs in Soubra, 26, 27.

Arabian play and farce, 29, 30.

Shot at by a soldier, 31.

A young lady shot by a soldier, 33.

Complete the water machine, 34.

The English consul arrives in Cairo, 34.

Decision of the Bashaw on the hydraulic machine—his frolic with it—the
Irish lad’s thigh broke in consequence, 35, 36.

Decided on ascending the Nile, 37.

Undertaking to remove the colossal bust, and received instruction, 41.

Left Boolak for Thebes—saw Hermopolis—arrived at Monfaluth, 45, 46.

Siout, description of it, 47, 48.

Saw Gow—a curious interview with the Cacheff of Acmin, 49, 50.

Arrival at and description of Dendera, 52.

Arrival at Kenneh—arrival at and description of Thebes, 58.

Begin operations for removing the bust of young Memnon, 63.

First interview with the Cacheff of Erments—his objection against the
removal, 64, 65.

Farther difficulties encountered, 66.

Begin the operation of removing it, 68.

Removed from its original place and put upon a car, 69.

Removed out of the ruins of the Memnonium—delay in consequence of
indisposition—works resumed, 70, 71.

The Fellahs prevented from working by order of the Cacheff, 73.

Insolence and duplicity of the Caimakan, 74.

Account of a Turkish dinner in Ramadan time, 76.

Obtain a firman and again proceed in the works, 78, 79.

Arrival of the great Colossus on the banks of the Nile, 79.

First visit to a Mummy Cave, 80.

Preparations for departing to the first Cataract of the Nile, 86.

Visit to Khalil Bey at Esne, 86.

Arrival at and description of the ruins of Edfu, 88.

Distant view of Assouan—tradition relating to an ancient King, 93, 94.

Arrive at Assouan, or first Cataract, 94.

Description of the Aga of Assouan—description of the island of
Elephantine, 96, 97.

Difficulties in obtaining a boat to proceed to the second Cataract, 98.

Set off for the isle of Philoe, 102.

Continue the voyage—alarmed by the natives, 103, 104. Continuation of
the voyage, and arrival at El Kalabshe, 105, 106.

Description of it, 106. Arrive at Garba Dandour—proceed to Garbah
Merieh—arrival at Garba Gyrshe, and description of it, 106–110.

Arrival at and description of Dakke—Greek inscription, 113, 114.

Arrive at Meharraka, or Offelina—Greek inscription—curious figures on
an ancient wall, 114, 115.

Arrival at and description of Seboua—arrival at and account of Korosko,
116, 117.

Arrival at Deir—interview with Hassan Cacheff, 117, 118.

Leave Deir—arrive at Ibrim, 121.

Continuation of the voyage, and description of the country, 121.

Arrive at and description of Faras, and the temple of Ybsambul, 124.

Arrival at the village of Ybsambul—interview with Davoud
Cacheff—description of the natives, 127, 128.

First introduce money into the country, 130.

Further description of the natives, 131.

Proceed towards the second Cataract, 134.

Arrive at Wady Halfa, 136, 137.

Excursion by land on camels up the Cataract—view of it—visit to the
isle of Mainarty, 138.

Frighten away the natives, 140, 141.

Ascend the Nile against the eddies and current—visit the Rock of Apsir,
141–143.

View of the Cataract from it—go on to the island of Gulgé, 143.

Foundation of a Greek church on the island—return to Mainarty—leave it
and descend the Nile—arrive at Iskus, 144.

Interview with Osseyn Cacheff, 146, 147.

Leave Iskus—return to the village of Ybsambul—description of a small
temple opposite it—endeavour to persuade the natives to open the
temple, 148.

Begin operations at the temple, 149.

Difficulties encountered from the natives, 150.

Embarrassment of the Cacheff in fixing the price of a sheep, 153.

He drinks wine for the first time, 155.

The natives come to work in great numbers—their ideas on the treasure
to be found, 156.

Attempt to rob the boat, 157.

Causes for quitting the works at the temple, and leave Ybsambul, 158.

Hailed and received letters sent by a soldier from Deraou, 160.

Proceed to Cardassy—return to the first Cataract—take possession of a
small obelisk and various other blocks of stone in the island of
Philoe, 162, 163.

Return to Assouan—visit the granite quarries in the mountains, 165,
166.

Discover a Latin inscription on a column in the quarry—the little
knowledge they have of diamonds, 166.

Prepare to depart, 168.

Observation on the manners of the Arabs, 169.

Leave Assouan and arrive at Luxor—proceedings taken to obtain a boat to
convey the bust of Memnon to Alexandria, 172.

Works recommenced in Carnak, 174.

Secure a boat—beginning of discoveries, 176.

Count de Forbin, 178.

Description of the place where I first discovered the lion-headed
statues, 179.

Further proceedings in Carnak, 181.

Meet Khalil Bey on the Nile, 183.

_Conversazione_ with the Bey and his court, 185.

Account of a dinner with him, 186.

Description of the sepulchres in Gournou and Medinet Aboo, 188, 189.

First excursion in the valley of Beban el Malook—first discover the
tomb of a king, 192, 193.

Description of the mountains round the valley—water descends from the
desert, 194, 195.

Further difficulties in obtaining a boat, 195.

Curious incident by which the boat was obtained, 198.

Trial respecting the boat, and decision in favour of the author, 199,
200.

Works recommenced in Gournou—embark the colossal bust of Memnon, 205.

Preparations for departing to Cairo—Ophthalmia—leave Thebes for Cairo,
208, 209.

Arrival in Cairo—leave Cairo for Alexandria, 209, 210.

Arrive in Rosetta—Bogase—and in Alexandria—landed and lodged the colossal head in the Bashaw’s magazine ready to be embarked for England—farther proposal to ascend the Nile, 210–212.

Return to Cairo—account of Captain Cabillia’s operations at the
Pyramids, 213.

SECOND JOURNEY.

Left Cairo for Thebes, 219.

Stopped at Tabeen and Boorumbol, 220, 221.

Description of an Arabian dance—arrival at Minieh, 222.

Arrival at Eshmounein, and sudden departure for Luxor, 224, 225.

A forced march to Thebes, 226.

Account of Bedoween horsemen and their tents, 227.

Disagreeable consequences occasioned by the interpreter omitting to
send a letter to the Defterdar Bey, 229.

Another interview with the Cacheff of Erments—miracles performed by a
Santon, 233.

Further proceedings in Luxor, 235.

Description of the temple of Carnak, 236.

Further proceedings in Thebes, 239.

Description of the natives, and tombs of Gournou, 241.

Observations on the mode of discovery of the tombs, 242.

Further account of the natives—manner of the Fellahs making their
researches, 248.

Purchase two metal vases from a chief of the Fellahs, 250.

Further operations and discovery of lion-headed sphinxes in Carnak,
252.

Iron sickle discovered under one of the sphinxes, 252.

Further knowledge acquired on the discovery of tombs—Herodotus’s
description of mummies, 257.

Observations on the various classes and descriptions of mummies, 260,
261.

Of animal mummies, 261.

Of mummy priests, 265.

Mummies discovered in their original position, 266.

Further account of mummies, 266, _et seq._

Their decorations—linen manufactures—enamelling, gilding and other
arts, 268.

Art of painting, 271.

Sculpture, 272.

Architecture, and knowledge of arches with a key-stone, 273.

Sculpture, 278.

Uncover the foundation of a temple in the waste of Gournou—curious
manner in discovering a tomb, 279, 280.

Description of a night’s lodging in the tomb, 281.

Happiness of the natives of Gournou, 282.

Their preparations for a wedding, 284.

Proceedings in Carnak—discovery of a colossal head—accumulate various
articles, 286.

Arrival of the Defterdar Bey at Gamola, and his orders—receive
information from the Sheik of Gournou, 287, 288.

Present a letter from the Bashaw to the Defterdar Bey, 288.

The Bey visits Thebes, 288.

He visits Medinet Aboo, 290.

His barbarous conduct towards the Sheik of Gournou, 293.

He ascends the Nile, and returns to Thebes, 296.

Interview with the Bey on his return from Deraou, 297.

Arrival of two of the fathers of the Propaganda at Thebes, 299.

Description of a whirlwind, 303.

Mirage, 304.

Locusts—deception of Defterdar Bey in issuing a firman for men to work,
305–307.

Preparations for and departure to the island of Philoe—further account
of its monuments, 308, _et seq._

Preparations for Ybsambul—arrival of Captains Irby and Mangles, 314.

Celebration of the birth-day of his Majesty George III.—leave Philoe,
and arrive at Ybsambul, 315, 316.

Proceed to the second Cataract—combination of the natives and boatmen
to extort money, 317.

Return to Ybsambul—arrival of the Cacheffs, Daoud and
Khalil—displeasure of Khalil—preparations for opening the temple,
318, 319.

Commence opening the temple, 320.

Works stopped by the Ramadan—resolve to work ourselves, 322.

Visits from strange Cacheffs, said to be from Ibrim, 324.

Their conduct, 325.

Works continued—entry into the temple—description of the interior,
327–330.

Description of the exterior, 331.

Leave Ybsambul, 333.

Arrive at Tomas—return to Deir, 334.

Arrive at Almeida—return to Kalabshe—opposition of the natives to our
entering the temple, 336.

Arrival at Hindau, 337.

Arrival at Debod, and return to Philoe—descend the cataract to
Assouan—visit the granite quarries and the Latin inscription, 338,
339.

Departure from Assouan—pass Edfu—landed at Elethias—description of it,
339, 340.

Return to Luxor, 342.

Return to Erments to obtain a firman for labourers to work at
Gournou—the Cacheff is displaced by the Bey, 343.

Commence searching for the kings’ tombs, 345.

Description of the valley of Beban el Malook, 349.

Number and description of the tombs, 349.

Further discovery of tombs, 352.

Arrival of travellers, 355.

Their visit to a newly discovered tomb, 355.

Recommence operations, and point out the spot where the great tomb is
found, 357.

Further proceedings, 358.

Enter the tomb, 359.

Further entrance, and description of its various apartments, 361, _et
seq._

Discovery of the sarcophagus of alabaster, 366.

Description of the entrance into the tomb of Psammuthis, 367.

Description of the various representations in the tomb, and figures in
sculpture on the walls, 368.

Painting—method taken for procuring a _fac simile_ of the tomb, 371.

Description of the various figures, 372.

Dr. Young’s discovery of the name of the tomb, 375.

Continuation of the description of the figures, 376, _et seq._

Mahomet Aga visits the tomb, 381.

Unfortunate fate of the stones prepared to be taken from the isle of
Philoe, 384.

Arrival of a noble family and the consul at Thebes—set off for and
arrive at Boolak, 386–388.

Meet with Count de Forbin, 389.

Despatches arrive from India, 391.

Farther account of Count de Forbin, 392.

Transmit to Europe, by the Count, on account of his proceedings, 393.

Visit the Pyramids—reflection on the possibility of penetrating that of
Cephrenes, and motive which induced the author to undertake it, 395.

Difficulties encountered, 397.

Observations on the Pyramids, 399.

Mode of obtaining permission for the operation, 400.

Caution observed not to let the proceedings be known, 401.

Begin the undertaking, 403.

Foundation of a large temple discovered, 404.

Tedious operations without any prospect of success—first discovery of
an entrance, 406, 407.

Disappointment, and determination still to persevere, 411.

Calculation by which the true entrance was discovered, 412.

Again resume the work—Arrival of Chevalier Frediani, 413, 414.

Discovery of the blocks of granite belonging to the true
entrance—discovery of the true entrance, 415.

Difficulties in entering—description of the portcullis, 416, 417.

Description of the interior—the sarcophagus found in the great chamber,
418–420.

Arabic inscription observed on the wall of the chamber—translation of
it, 421, 422.

Bones found in the sarcophagus—place from whence the stones have been
taken for building the Pyramids, 426, 427.

Accounts of the Pyramids, 428, _et seq._

The supposed purpose for which they were erected, 430.

Their dimensions, 432.

Opinion on there not being hieroglyphics on the Pyramids, 432.

Their coating—on their being surrounded by the Nile—operation on the
third Pyramid, 433, 435.

Preparations for a third journey to Thebes, 436.

Set off for Thebes, 438.

RESEARCHES AND OPERATIONS

IN

EGYPT, NUBIA, &c.

FIRST JOURNEY.

We sailed from Malta on the 19th of May, 1815, and arrived at Alexandria on the 9th of June following; Mrs. Belzoni, myself, and James Curtain, a lad, whom I brought with me from Ireland, formed our party. The principal cause of my going to Egypt was the project of constructing hydraulic machines, to irrigate the fields, by a system much easier and more economical than what is in use in that country. On entering the harbour of Alexandria, the pilot informed us, that the plague was in the town. To an European who had never been in that country, this was alarming intelligence. As I wished to have some information concerning the state of the disease, we did not land till the next day, when two European gentlemen came alongside in a boat, and informed us, that it was rapidly diminishing. We accordingly landed, but with much caution, as in our way to the French Occale, where we were to perform quarantine, we had to pass through the town. Fortunately, St. John’s day, which is the 24th of June, was not far off; and on that day the plague is supposed to cease. Some superstitious persons attribute this to the power of the saint himself; but it is too well known, that extreme heat checks the plague in the same manner as the cold season; and I observed myself, that when the heat of summer was not so great as usual, the plague lasted longer; while, on the other hand, when the cold season lasted longer, the plague came later.

The necessity of putting ourselves into a voluntary prison; the caution we were obliged to take, not to touch any person, or suffer any one to touch us; the strict order to be observed in receiving any thing that came from out of doors; and the continual perfumes with which we were regaled, to prevent the plague, as they say, were extremely strange to a novice in the customs of the country. We were confined to our apartment, and for three or four days no one came near us. We were really sick, but I took the caution not to let it be known; for the plague is so dreadful a scourge, and operates so powerfully on human fears and human prejudices, that, during its prevalence, if a man be ill, he must be ill of the plague, and if he die, he must have died of the plague: no inquiry is made, no examination takes place. Accordingly, had the people of the Occale come to the knowledge of our being indisposed, and particularly that we vomited, they would have concluded, though it was merely the effect of a new climate, that we had caught the pestilence in passing through the town; and the whole Occale would have been struck with terror, thinking the enemy was within the gate.

The Occale is an enclosure of several houses, so disposed as to form a square. There is no entrance to the area of the square but by the great gate, leading to a common staircase, above which a gallery takes you to every house. In plague time, the people of these habitations must communicate with each other without touching: no provision can enter without being passed through water, nor must bread be touched whilst warm. The disease is so easily caught, that a piece of thread blown by the wind is quite sufficient to infect the whole country. Had it been known that we were ill, no one would have come near us, except the Arabs, who go in case of sickness indiscriminately to every one; and are thus likely to spread the plague, by giving it to those who had it not. Many die the victims of neglect, merely because every disease is taken for the plague: others are victims of a different kind, of the atrocious, interested views of their relatives, who, profiting by their death, may take what advantage they please, even by poison, as no investigation takes place in any instance. “He died of the plague” is the general cry, whatever may be the disease; and as several hundreds perish daily, they are all carried away without distinction.

After the 24th of June, called the great St. John, the plague nearly ceased; and as my principal view was to reach Cairo, we hired a boat, in company with Mr. Turner, an English gentleman, who was going up the Nile. We sailed on the 1st of July, but, owing to contrary winds, were brought back the same evening. The next day we re-embarked, and were then obliged to land at Aboukir, in consequence of high winds. We visited the place, where many a brave fellow had fallen a sacrifice to the war, and to the glory of his country. Human bones were scattered here and there.

Continuing our voyage the same day, we entered the mouth of the Nile, and landed at Rosetta; four days more brought us to Boolak, within a mile of Cairo. Though our eyes began to be accustomed to the sight of the Arabs in Alexandria, the bustling scene here was still more striking. The majestic appearance of Turkish soldiers in various costumes, without regularity or discipline, Arabs of many tribes, boats, canjeas, camels, horses, and asses, all in motion, presented a striking picture. I landed, and went immediately to Cairo; and as the holy fathers of the convent of Terrasanta could not receive women within their walls, we were accommodated in an old house in Boolak, belonging to Mr. Baghos, to whom I was recommended. He was the principal interpreter of Mahomed Ali, and director of all foreign affairs: a man of great acuteness of understanding, and so well disposed towards strangers, particularly Europeans, that it was soon arranged, that on such a day I was to be presented to his highness the Bashaw, to make my proposal. The house we inhabited was so old and out of repair, that I expected every moment it would fall on our heads; all the windows were shut up with broken wooden rails; the staircase was in so wretched a condition, that scarcely a step was left entire; the door was fastened simply by a pole placed against it, having neither lock nor any thing else to secure the entrance. There were many rooms in it, but the ceiling in all of them was in a most threatening state. The whole furniture consisted of a single mat in one of the best rooms, which we considered as our drawing-room. We had mattresses and linen with us, otherwise we must have adopted the Arab method of sleeping: as no chairs are to be had in this country, we sat on the ground; a box and a trunk served as a table: fortunately, we had a few plates, as well as knives and forks, which we had provided to use in the boat; and James, our Irish lad, bought us a set of culinary utensils, of pottery. Such were our accommodations.

Though my principal object was not antiquities at that time, I could not restrain myself from going to see the wonder of the world, the pyramids. I took an opportunity of going with Mr. Turner, who obtained an escort of soldiers from the Bashaw to accompany us. We went there to sleep, that we might ascend the first pyramid early enough in the morning to see the rising of the sun; and accordingly we were on the top of it long before the dawn of day. The scene here is majestic and grand far beyond description: a mist over the plains of Egypt formed a veil, which ascended and vanished gradually as the sun rose and unveiled to the view that beautiful land, once the site of Memphis. The distant view of the smaller pyramids on the south marked the extension of that vast capital; while the solemn, endless spectacle of the desert on the west inspired us with reverence for the all-powerful Creator. The fertile lands on the north, with the serpentine course of the Nile, descending towards the sea; the rich appearance of Cairo, and its numerous minarets, at the foot of the Mokatam mountain on the east; the beautiful plain which extends from the pyramids to that city; the Nile, which flows magnificently through the centre of the sacred valley, and the thick groves of palm-trees under our eyes; all together formed a scene, of which very imperfect ideas can be given by the most elaborate description. We descended to admire at some distance the astonishing pile that stood before us, composed of such an accumulation of enormous blocks of stones, that I was at a loss to conjecture how they could be brought thither; and presently we entered the pyramid: but I must reserve for some other time the more minute account of this wonderful work. We went round the second pyramid, examined several of these mausoleums, and returned to Cairo with the satisfaction of having seen a wonder, which I had long desired, but never supposed I should have the happiness to behold.

A few days after we made a party of Europeans, to go as far as Sacara by water, and after visiting the pyramids of that place, the party returned to Cairo, except Mr. Turner and myself, who went to see the pyramids of Dajior. These are considerably smaller than the large ones, I believe in the proportion of about one to six. One of them is of a different form, as it has a curve in the angles, which brings it to a perpendicular near the ground. This, and those at Sacara, which appear like hanging galleries, differ from the generality in point of shape; but the two of Dajior are in better preservation than any of the rest. I observed also near Sacara and Betracina, which I believe to be the central part of Memphis, the remains of other pyramids, which, by their dilapidated state, induced me to suppose, that they are of an earlier date than any of the rest. At this time I had no opportunity of visiting the pits of the embalmed mummies of birds; but a Fellah brought us one of the earthen vases that contained a bird, which I believed to be a hawk by the shape of the bones. The vase was so perfect, that we laughed at the Arab for his attempting to impose on us. Seeing that he could not sell his piece of antiquity, and that he was laughed at besides, he broke the vase before us, to show what connoisseurs we were of antiques. We overshot the mark this time; for the caution that had been given us, never to credit what an Arab says, made us disbelieve the truth. On our returning towards the Nile, we passed by the broken pyramid of sun-baked bricks; and it appeared to me, on examining it afterwards, that it did not decay gradually, like the other pyramids, but by large masses of the bricks separating at a time from the rest.

On our arrival at the Nile it was quite night, and we had to pass several villages to come to a place where we could embark for old Cairo. Our road was through a cluster of palm-trees, which by moonlight had a most solemn effect. Some of the Arabs were dancing to the usual tunes on the tambourines; and, forgetting perhaps the slavish condition in which they are held by the Turks, were happy for a while. We took a small boat, and arrived in old Cairo before day. Two days after I was to be presented to the Bashaw on the subject of my hydraulic project; and accordingly I went to the house of Mr. Baghos, where I first became acquainted with the late Mr. Burckhardt. This acquaintance was a fortunate circumstance for me, as the various and important information I acquired from him proved to be of the greatest service to me in that country, and I shall ever remember it with the deepest gratitude. Going to the citadel with Mr. Baghos, we had to pass through several of the principal streets, which are always crowded with people, and for this reason a stranger supposes the capital to be very populous; but except these streets and the bazars, the rest of the town is quite deserted, and a great number of falling houses and much rubbish are to be seen every where. We were mounted on our asses, the most convenient and only mode of travelling for Franks in that city. We met a soldier on horseback, who, when he came near, gave me such a blow with his stirrup upon my right leg, that I thought he had cut it in two. The stirrups of the Turks, which are like shovels, cut very sharp; and one of the corners, catching the calf of my leg, tore off a piece of flesh in a triangular form, two inches broad, and pretty deep. After this he swore two or three oaths at me, and went on as if nothing had happened. The blood ran out copiously; and, instead of seeing the Bashaw, I was taken to the convent of Terrasanta, as the nearest Christian place I could go to. It is to be remarked, that, at this time, there was a great discontent among the soldiers against the Bashaw, for having given orders, that they should learn the European military evolutions; and, as I was in a Frank’s dress, I suppose the fellow paid me for what he had learned of European fighting. From the convent I was taken home to my house in Boolak, where I remained under cure for thirty days, before I could stand on my legs.

During my confinement in this house, I had an opportunity of observing at some distance the manners of the Arabs, who passed under our window. Our house stood in a good situation, where we could observe all the landing from the boats that came from Alexandria and Rosetta. All the goods which went or came passed our residence; and the caravans of the Moors from Mecca halted for several days in this place. It was a strange sight for us, to observe these people in their tents, living in separate families, while their chief occupation was sitting on the ground, smoking, singing, and saying prayers, which I observed lasted sometimes three or four hours, besides the ceremonial prayers, repeated standing and kneeling. I did not make any minute observations, for, as I have said, my first occupation was with a different view; nor did I expect at that period, that I should ever have any thing to do with these people, as a traveller.

When I recovered, I was presented to Mahomet Ali Bashaw, who received me very civilly. Seeing that I walked lamely, and being told the cause, he said, such accidents could not be avoided where there were troops. I made an arrangement with him, and undertook to erect a machine, which would raise as much water with one ox, as the machines of the country with four. He was much pleased with my proposal, as it would save the labour and expense of many thousands of oxen in the country; a matter of importance, since these animals are scarcely of any other use than working; for, though they are in pretty good condition, they are seldom killed for food, the Turks eating mutton, and the Arabs buffalo’s flesh, when they can afford it. The Bashaw was just returned from Arabia, where he had conquered some of the Wahaby tribes, and delivered the holy cities of Mecca and Medina from the Infidels. He himself conducted the war till lately, when his son Ibrahim Bashaw conquered some of the great chiefs, who were taken prisoners, and sent to Constantinople, where they were executed. Notwithstanding this, I am of opinion, that Mecca will be to the Turks, what Jerusalem is to the Christians; for unless a strong army be kept there, the of Mahomet Ali will have no better effect than that of our Godfrey of Bouillon.

During the time that I was engaged in preparing my hydraulic machine, one morning I went on the road towards Cairo, and, to my surprise, found a perfect silence, instead of the continual confusion of noise and bustle of every description. The boatmen were getting their boats ready, as if to set off immediately. No camels appeared to carry water to Cairo; no ass-drivers were seen; no shops open; and no person in the streets. I could not conceive what was the reason of this singularity, nor could I inquire of any one, as no person was in the way; but, being Friday, I concluded it might be some particular holiday with the Mahommedans. I went on, and still met no one. The distance from Boolak to Cairo is about a mile through an open country; and midway is a bridge, near which I found a group of soldiers. I continued my walk without noticing them; one of them, however, levelled a gun at me, and all the rest laughed at the idea of frightening a Frank.

I passed on till I entered Cairo. When I reached the Franks’ quarter, both gates were shut; but through the small door I observed a Frank, engaged like myself in the act of peeping, and who proved to be Mr. Bocty, the Swedish consul-general, who was surprised to see me. I could not imagine what all this meant. At first I concluded, that a violent plague had broken out, and that every one kept his house: but the Mahommedans do not seclude themselves on such occasions; so I was at a loss what inference to draw. Mr. Bocty anxiously inquired of me how I happened to be there, whence I came, and what I had seen on the road; and he was not a little surprised, when I told him, that I came from Boolak, and did not see any thing particular on the way. I had not been at the door long, before we heard a great noise in some of the streets, and a volley of musketry discharged. I was then hurried into the Franks’ quarter, and the gates were closely shut. I was soon informed, that a revolution had broken out among the soldiers against the Bashaw, and that some of the troops were in pursuit of him to the citadel, whither he had retired for safety. Strange as it may appear, it proved, that by our not communicating with any body in Boolak, we knew nothing of what passed in the morning at Cairo; and it so happened, that at the very place where the revolution had begun, which was the seraglio, in the Esbakie, no one was visible when I passed; for after the Bashaw had retired into the citadel, all the soldiers ran after him; and as to the rest of the people, no one came out of their houses. All the Franks in their quarter were alarmed, and prepared for defence, in case the gates should be attacked. I went to the house of Mr. Baghos, in the same quarter, as I had business with him, and he was not a little surprised to see me, knowing where I lived.

I was much concerned for Mrs. Belzoni, whom I had left at home with only James and an Arab; and though Mr. Baghos endeavoured to persuade me to stop with him all night, I insisted on returning almost immediately. I went off unperceived by any one in the house; but at the gates of the quarter I found great difficulty in having the door opened; and no sooner was I out, than it was instantly closed after me. I took the same road that I came, and had not gone far, when I met a body of armed soldiers running towards the centre of the town. Advancing further, I heard several muskets discharged in a street near, and many others at some distance; indeed there was a continual firing kept up. On my approaching the Esbakie, I saw several soldiers running towards the seraglio, and others hastening towards me. When they came up, one seized the bridle of my donkey, while another took me by the collar, and the rest were busied in rifling my pockets. I had but a few dollars in my possession; and my pocket-book contained only letters and passports, of which I know not how they have disposed: but what principally drew their attention was a white topaz brooch, which I had in the frill of my shirt, and which they took for a brilliant. I kept in good humour with them; and when I perceived their attention to the topaz, I began to move in order to depart. I do not know whether I had reason to fear they would call after me, suspecting that I marked them so as to recognise them again: but I proceeded, and nothing further happened to me on the road.