Chapter XXXI: The West Coast

There is always interest in observing the progress of a people, their gradual conquest over evil conditions and their energy in removing all obstacles which stand in the way of advancement. The demonstration of strength and determination which result in triumph, stimulates the energies of men of all countries, and the gratification that is gained through overcoming difficulties becomes a natural pride. This example the Mexican nation has shown to the world.

SINALOA owes a great part of her progress to the people. The actual government, comprised of sons of the State, is a body of men of action and intelligence, and the welfare of the country is their first consideration. All public works and improvements are jealously protected and every class of enterprise, mineral, commercial, maritime, industrial, educational and agricultural are prosecuted to the full extent of possible development.

As a maritime State she possesses a wonderful future. Mazatlan has become a great Mexican port of the Pacific and is in close competition with the port of Vera Cruz, though neither are rivals, on account of their geographical positions. The country is well supplied with banking and commercial facilities and vast enterprises for land development have taken hold here. Railroad service and quick communication with the Pacific have given Sinaloa a wider scope, developing with greater rapidity all this western stretch of territory which has hitherto been confined to a small area.

The Southern Pacific Railroad connects the United States with the port of Mazatlan and opens one of the richest undeveloped mining and agricultural sections in the country. In a few years Sinaloa, under the dominion of energetic and enterprising citizens, will become one of the garden spots of America.

The mineral and agricultural elements have greatly advanced and enriched the State and she is on the road to become a most powerful industrial centre.

Sinaloa is a maritime State and compares most favorably with all coast territories. The situation between the great Gulf of California and the Pacific is most enviable and all active movements of communication are practical and convenient.

The mineral zones that have been exploited are famous throughout the world for their riches. There are many precious metals in the picturesque mountains and judging from the prolific production of the relatively few enterprises now at work, a rich and incalculable fortune awaits the prospector.

In the northern part of the State is the great silver belt. El Fuerte district has extensive gold-placer ground.

The climatic conditions are excellent. The fruit and flowers are of superior quality and in the high and mountainous regions all the products of a temperate climate exist in profusion and are easily cultivated. There is plenty of good land at the disposition of foreign colonists and the government is always eager to place every advantage before the settler. A great number of foreigners are living in this country and they have all the rights and obligations of the natives.

Rivers and extensive irrigating plants make the land fertile and with many canals and plenty of water-power immense quantities of electrical power can be supplied to all enterprises and industries that exist and to those that may become established in the future.

The principal sugar estates are the El Dorado, La Aurora, the Navaolota, Los Mochis, and El Aguila.

El Dorado is one of the finest sugar plantations in the republic. It is located on the San Lorenzo River. It is connected with the main line of the Southern Pacific by a branch from Quila. This hacienda is equipped with the best machinery and produces fine cube sugar.

The writer spent some days at El Dorado and was the recipient of most charming courtesies and was initiated into the intricacies of sugar-making.

La Aurora hacienda is in the outskirts of the city of Culiacan. This sugar estate has been under cultivation for years and is noted for its purity of product.

The name of Redo has been associated with the State of Sinaloa for over half a century. Señor Joaquin Redo, the father of the governor, founded many industries, among them sugar factories, steel plants, and iron foundries, and it is natural that Señor Diego Redo takes such an interest in the State his forefathers helped to build. He is one of the most progressive men in the republic and has done so much for the advancement of every enterprise in his State that he is loved and respected by all, from the humblest peon to the greatest statesman. There is no doubt that the young governor, who not forty years old, has set the pace for energetic and modern advancement. He has taken the initiative in promoting every form of fruit culture and agricultural development. In the establishment of the Agricultural Mortgage Bank now in contemplation he will accomplish an incalculable benefit to the State. In this movement he has the co-operation of strong interests in the United States and in the Federal District. This will be a great acquisition and will materially aid in the construction of irrigation works and other enterprises which are necessary to the success of the State.

The building of many cities is one of the plans of the governor and by his aggressive attitude in the actual progress of his State he is determined to make Sinaloa one of the most important in the Union. The first thing accomplished with the aid of the State legislators was the establishment of an engineering corps. This corps costs the State about sixty thousand dollars a year and is composed of the finest engineers obtainable. Surveys of the entire country are made, sites for cities are located and the proper locations of the big valleys and level of the streams are obtained. In this way, it was discovered that the Sinaloa River makes a loop of about eighteen miles and then passes itself within a distance of only one hundred and sixty metres. The division of the river is by a single mountain ridge through which a tunnel is to be bored. This will afford a sufficient drop to produce more than six hundred horse-power and at the same time supply the immediate valley with plenty of water for irrigating purposes. Through this means of survey the sites of some of these cities has been located.

Governor Redo is noted for his policy and perception and is always a prominent figure in ceremonials where the distinguished men of the country are gathered, and when a new building is dedicated or a new railroad inaugurated, this gentleman is always present.

On the opening of the Tucson and West Coast of Mexico Railway an important link was formed in an interoceanic and international line, from the shores of the Atlantic Coast to the Pacific Ocean on the west shores of the Republic of Mexico. Citizens of the two great republics met and ceremonies befitting so great an occasion were held. An intelligent and delicate tribute was paid to the meeting of General Diaz and President Taft by Governor Redo in an appropriate address, of which is given the following extract: “The joyous echoes of the feasts held in El Paso and Ciudad Juarez on the occasion of the meeting of our Presidents are still resounding in the hearts of Americans and Mexicans. We still recall the words of President Diaz affirming in the name of the Mexican nation the reciprocity of the cordial sentiments which on this solemn occasion were evinced by the countrymen of the immortal Washington;” and the words of President Taft expressing in the name of the people of the United States the same sacred sentiments of friendship and ‘their profound admiration and high esteem for the great, illustrious and patriotic President Diaz.’ And our present celebration may be considered as the confirmation of those assertions no longer in the sphere of diplomatic formalities, but in manner more effective, as being the direct approximation of the individual correspondents of both nations. You have invited your Mexican friends to a great practical and symbolic feast; practical on account of the utility which the new railroad line will bring to both countries by quickening traffic, reducing freight rates, linking markets close together and offering occasion and pretext for a better mutual benefit understanding; symbolic, because this material approachment is the concrete and plastic representation of brotherly neighborhood of two nations, who, putting aside all possible bitterness, take pleasure in the solace of a cordial friendship, and overcoming differences of race and obstacles of language, seek the ideal of a human solidarity, ever working for the common welfare.”

The capital of the State is Culiacan. It occupies the site of the old Aztec city of Colhuacan, famed in Mexican history. It has a population of about twenty thousand and is rapidly growing in importance. Being one of the oldest cities in the republic, many antique buildings still exist in a state of preservation which shows the remarkable craft of the builders centuries ago. It is in the midst of the gold mining district and is the centre of extensive trade. There are cotton factories, sugar refineries and several manufactories of great importance. The city has a fine public square and the streets are very attractive. Among the principal buildings are the Government Houses, new schools, banking houses and a magnificent cathedral, which has a collection of paintings of the old masters. The press is well represented in this State, there being several interesting “Dailies.”

The fibre industry has advanced with great rapidity, and some of the manufactories are in a flourishing condition.

Altata is the seaport of the city of Culiacan and is the outlet for the large agricultural and mining country. The export of ores, sugar and brazil-wood forms the trade of this port. A short railroad line connects this town with the capital.

Mazatlan is a most important mercantile centre, but there are other cities that follow it in close competition. There are many important importing and exporting establishments. It is the most progressive city on the west coast and has taken on the appearance of a busy American port town.

The people are well educated, cultured and refined. The educational system has every facility for mental equipment.

The principal newspaper is _El Diario del Pacifico_.

One is impressed with the beautiful approach to this port, the flanking mountains and the blue Pacific waters making a contrast with the tropical palms and ferns ashore.

Silver mines are found in this locality and the chief exports are gold and silver, dye woods and fine pearls.

SONORA

Baron Humboldt called the West Coast the “mineral storehouse of the world.”

Sonora is notably a mining State and covers an area of seventy-seven thousand square miles and the mining industry dates back to the time of the Spanish Conquerors. Some of the mines worked by them are still producing. Deposits of gold, silver and copper occur in remarkable abundance and with modern mining facilities have developed great commercial importance, while hundreds of mines remain unworked since their abandonment during the revolution against Spain from 1810 to 1821. In silver production Sonora has been surpassed by the interior States but from the beginning it has held first place as the chief producer of gold and copper.

Since the Yaqui disturbances have been quelled by the government and there can be no possible chance for another outbreak, on account of the strenuous measures taken to conquer this unruly tribe, Sonora has begun to take on an air of great prosperity. Some of these Indians finding themselves under the absolute control of the authorities have settled down to farming and mining and some of them have joined the army; in consideration of this schools and churches have been erected for them. One of the greatest benefits occurring from the establishment of peace has been the betterment of public education. It is the object of the officials to improve the school system in every manner possible, and all money formerly used as a war fund against the Yaqui is now turned to their interest.

The Chamber of Commerce has taken steps to renew public confidence and open up old business relations with the sections of the State that have transferred their operations to other points on account of these troubles; the result is, that all inactive towns have taken on new life and public improvement has made rapid strides.

This country unites all the conditions necessary for happy, reasonable living. The climate is temperate, water excellent and abundant and there is plenty of timber. It is a fine country for coffee, corn, cane and cotton and the annual shipment of bananas exceeds that of any other State. The agricultural resources should be properly developed and although recent improved mining conditions have made them a secondary feature, there is no doubt that farming is to be one of the best resources of this rapidly advancing State. The fruit culture of Sonora is gradually gaining pace with California and the oranges from this part have been pronounced the finest in the world. The fact that all produce ripens a few weeks in advance of that in California is a good reason for farmers to know the value of this section. The steady influx of earnest people anxious to cast their lot in a country so rapidly coming to the front leads one to believe that the history of the pioneers of the Golden West is soon to be repeated.

Hermosillo, the capital of Sonora, is one of the first and important cities on the west coast reached after leaving American territory. It is situated on the Sonora Railway, which is a branch of the Southern Pacific. In a beautiful valley with majestic mountains towering in the distance, this charming city occupies a splendid geographical position and is destined to become the centre of great commercial and business enterprises. Stately public buildings, grand old churches, and beautiful parks of palms and native fruits give the city a semi-oriental appearance and, with all its quaintness, this is one of the most attractive cities in this part of the republic.

There are no frosts in the winter months to chill the air, and no excessive heat in the summer. Possessed of a climate equal to that of Southern California, it is a most delightful abiding place.

Within the past year the city has taken on a tremendous degree of activity; improvements are being made daily, buildings reconstructed and a company of local capitalists have laid out an addition to the town, grading the streets, macadamizing the roadways and in every way beautifying the city. Houses on the American plan have been built and many beautiful residences in this new colony are adding greatly to the appearance of the city. The energetic interest that the State government has taken in the progress of this country has given a great stimulus to the people and it is remarkable how many prospectors have flocked from the United States to cast their lots in this promising city.

Hermosillo has about fifteen thousand inhabitants. It has several public parks that are being continuously improved. The Ramón Corral Park is the most beautiful. It was named in honor of the Vice-President, once the Governor of the State, and was donated by him. The Plaza de Armas is in front of the Municipal Palace and is very bright and pretty. It is one of the most attractive sights of the city in the evening when lighted with its brilliant display of electricity. A mountain in the city limits called Cerro de las Campanas has been converted into a pleasure resort with a fine drive to its summit, with byways laid out in a very attractive manner with rustic seats and many features of beauty. A handsome kiosk is in course of construction where military bands will give concerts.

A large statue of the patriot Hidalgo stands in a square facing the Bank of Sonora, one of the most important establishments in the State. There are many fine banking and commercial houses in this city which give an idea of the prosperity that reigns supreme.

The Chamber of Commerce and the Chamber of Agriculture are very active in the interests of the State and Hermosillo boasts of fine institutions of learning, the idea of the government being to make the schools of this State the best and most advanced in the republic.

One of the most important is the Colegio de Niñas de Leona Vicario, named in honor of the great heroine of the Revolution. It has a conservatory of music, a library, a gymnasium and a branch of arts and crafts. This school has been opened lately.

The Academy for Boys is a large and handsome building with an excellent system of manual training in connection with other branches. The public schools of the city are maintained at a cost of eighty thousand dollars a year. American interests are well protected by Mr. Louis Hostetter, who is the Consul. He is well loved by the natives and has the respect of all the government officials. He has enlarged the trade with the United States and his work is much appreciated. Public improvements are steadily going on. A concession has been granted for a dam in the Sonora River, about ten miles from the city. This will be of great benefit to the outlying districts as well as to the capital, for there has been a great waste of water that should irrigate at least five hundred thousand acres of land. There will be a larger power plant to connect with the factories and electricity is to be generously distributed.

General Luis E. Torres, the Governor of the State, is the General of the Military Zone. His duty consumes most of his time and the acting Governor, Señor Alberto Cubillas, uses great energy and activity in carrying out the policies of the executive. General Torres is one of the noted figures of Mexican history. The government of this State is wise, fearless and impartial and all the officials are directing their earnest efforts toward advancement.

Guaymas is situated on the bay of the same name and is a very old city. The antique houses of one story constructed on a solid basis still hold their own with the later structures of modern architecture, and the contrast between the two styles is very strange. It is the second city of importance in the State. The harbor is said to be one of the finest in the world. The works lately built, some parts are still in construction, have been done at great expenditure on the part of the Federal Government. Large vessels can now enter the port. The scenery surrounding this port city is very attractive and pleasure-seekers from the North have made it a winter resort as the climate is mild and equable. Fishing, hunting and boating are indulged in by those living here, and the great commercial activity grows in importance with each year. It is the headquarters of the Sonora Railroad whose commodious offices are very handsome. The Pacific Salt Company is one of the most extensive in commercial importance and there is scarcely a commodity that is not manufactured in this city. The Custom House, with the wireless telegraph station, and the Marine Hospital are important buildings. The public parks are well laid out and are very attractive with tropical palms and flowers.

Five miles from Guaymas is Empalme, a little town of Americans. It is growing very fast. The houses are all constructed of brick and wood and are very modern and sanitary. The terminal and machine shops of the Sonora-Pacific Railway extension are here. Other cities, Esperanza, Alamos and Cananea, are in close competition in mining activity. Alamos is an old and picturesque town surrounded by beautiful scenery and its history is full of old legends and traditions.

Cananea is the headquarters of one of the largest mining companies in the State. It gives employment to over three thousand Mexicans and half as many Americans. It is a progressive little town with a variety of enterprises, theatres, steam laundries, department stores, a newspaper printed in English, called the _Bulletin_, and a mercantile bank doing a thriving business.

Nogales is called the Gateway of Mexico. It is divided by an imaginary line from the town of Nogales, Arizona. There was a great deal of smuggling carried on at one time owing to the fact that on one side of a street was American territory and on the other Mexican. But this no longer exists owing to the strenuous means on the part of both governments. The main offices of the Sonora Railway and of the Cananea Division of the Cananea, Rio Yaqui and Pacific are located here. In speaking of the favorable conditions which exist in Sonora the words of General Torres are most appropriate: “So great is the area; so varied the products and so fertile the soil of the opulent State of Sonora that no man even after a lifetime spent within her borders can make more than mention of her resources. This year Sonora is more than ever prepared for the fullest development of her history, owing to the subjugation of the Yaquis and the consequent settlement of Indian trouble. The resources of Sonora fall naturally into three great divisions; mining, agriculture and stock-raising.

“In mining it has produced millions of dollars worth of gold, silver, copper and lead, and will produce millions more in the new wave of progress which is sweeping over the State. Mines which have been producing since the middle of the sixteenth century are being driven deeper and rich new prospects are being opened up all over the State.

“Stock-raising, the original industry, suffered a severe setback during the recent Indian troubles, but is again being raised to the place of prominence it should occupy in the wealth-producing land of Sonora.”

South of Sinaloa along the Pacific Coast lies the Territory of TEPIC. It originally belonged to the State of Jalisco but it was declared a free territory during the administration of General Lerdo de Tejada.

Its agricultural products are rich and all kinds of tropical fruits grow in great abundance.

The chief industry is salt, which is of great importance commercially.

The Tepic territory is remarkable for the number of waterfalls it contains, and the rivers which supply water throughout the entire territory.

While the beauties of southern California are well known, the imaginary line that separates from Baja California marks no difference in soil or climate. It is a continuation of the same general features.

The Peninsula of Lower California was discovered by Cortés in 1536. It is traversed by a volcanic range of mountains. The Jesuits formed establishments there about 1690 and instructed the native Indians in the arts of agriculture and civilization. They remained there until 1767 and the ruins of their old missions are to-day exceedingly picturesque.

At La Paz the pearl fisheries are very extensive and some of the finest pearls in the world are among these deposits. More than a thousand divers are employed during the season, which lasts from May till November.

Politically, the peninsula is a territory. The two chief cities are La Paz, in the south, and Ensenada in the north. Ensenada is an American town exceedingly attractive in appearance. It is beautifully situated in a healthful location and is a natural outlet of great inland business and mineral wealth.

Magdalena Bay is one of the beautiful places along the Pacific Coast, and is surrounded by a green country. Orchilla is a parasitic moss which hangs from the trees throughout this region, adding a touch of picturesqueness to the natural beauties of the place. Large quantities of it are gathered on the seashore and in the vicinity, pressed and shipped to Europe, where it is used for the purpose of dyeing sealskins.

The region around Cape San Lucas is beautiful in the extreme, and not far from there lies the picturesque little village of San José del Cabo, which is a shipping port with a coast custom house section. The _Orizaba_ and the _Coos Bay_, steamers of the Pacific Coast Company, stop at all principal ports, and furnish the best possible means of communication between San Francisco and Guaymas, Sonora.