Chapter XXIV: Querétaro

Querétaro is a State around which has been cast a spirit of romance. The interest that centres here is great on account of it being the scene of many tragic events. Many famous men and women who have figured in the history of Mexico were born here. It was in this State that the first steps toward independence were taken and the efforts of the patriot Hidalgo to incite the people to open rebellion found ready response.

It occupies a part of the Cordilleran Plateau and while it contains much fertile land it is traversed by numerous mountains. In these, many minerals are found. Gold, silver, lead, copper, antimony, quicksilver and tin abound, and fine forests of timber and precious woods are the product of the mountains. Extensive fields of all kinds of grains, sugar and tobacco are cultivated.

Many lakes, such as the Cerro Grande, the Concha, the San Cillo and the Saledon, lend natural beauty to nature’s already prolific endowment.

The mining in this State is very promising, the regions are among the richest in Mexico. Precious and semi-precious stones abound. Owing to the extremely mountainous country it is difficult to operate many of the mines, but new railways and modes of transportation are eliminating that drawback.

The chief city and capital is Querétaro, one of the most beautiful in the republic, situated one hundred and ten miles northwest of Mexico on a plateau six thousand feet above sea level. It occupies the sides and summits of several hills and is separated from the picturesque little suburbs by a small river. It is an old city dating back to 1400, and is famous for its beautiful churches, the splendid architecture of the public buildings and dwellings, and also is of interesting historical value on account of the tragic ending of Maximilian, the erstwhile Emperor of Mexico, who was executed on the “Hill of the Bells.”

To one who sees the capital for the first time, it has a great fascination. There is something different about the architecture, the atmosphere, and even the sun seems to shine brighter here. Palms and bananas grow in the open squares, and the many churches with their melodious chimes ringing at almost all hours lend it an influence that is delightful.

Napoleon took upon himself the task of exporting an Emperor to Mexico, Maximilian of Austria, a dreamer imbued with the idea of the divine rights of kings. He listened to the seductive assurances of an emperor who himself had secured the right to rule by rapine and blood. Carlota was ambitious, an ardent Catholic, and the Pope gave the new rulers consecration and his blessing. The United States government put sixty thousand troops into Texas on the Mexican border and then Napoleon was told in unmistakable language that the French troops that sustained Maximilian must be withdrawn. Maximilian was advised to abdicate, and would have done so but for the proud and ambitious Carlota. She volunteered to go to France to intercede with Napoleon. He was deaf to her entreaties, and she then fled to the Pope for relief, but with no better success. Repulsed, her finely-strung nature succumbed and she became bereft of her reason, perhaps the best surcease, except death, from the humiliation, the defeat, and the greater grief that were to follow.

Maximilian with a few thousand troops was shut within the city. On the night of May 19, 1867, the city was captured, and he was tried and condemned to be shot, together with his two trusted Generals, Mejia and Miramon. The execution took place two miles out from the city one month later. Maximilian said as the fatal pilgrimage was begun, “I am ready; it is a beautiful day to die.” Holding the crucifix over his breast, as an indication to the soldiers where to fire, and with his faithful generals at his side to share the same fate, he received the death-dealing bullets. This historical spot is now marked by a chapel which has been built in recent years, but until that time three rude stones with an iron-railed enclosure were all that were placed to commemorate an event so important to Mexico, for thus the last attempt ended to plant a monarchy upon this continent.

The Convent of Santa Clara and the Church of Santa Rosa, both noted for their exterior and interior carvings, are the masterpieces of Tresguerras, an architect, sculptor, painter and poet. He was born in Celaya in 1765, and died there in 1833. These are churches of which Querétaro should be proud, as they are incomparable monuments of Mexican art. It is difficult to describe the splendor of the wonderfully rich wood-carving, heavily gilded, the elaborate and graceful metal work, including balconies and grills of wrought iron, and the painting and sculpture all from the hand or design of this great artist. The old church of San Francisco dates back to 1690.

The public buildings and educational and charitable establishments are splendid monuments to the ambition of an exceedingly good government. The Civil College, the Conservatory of Music, the Academy of San Fernando, and the School of Fine Arts are among the most important educational institutions. There are two public hospitals, the Vagara Hospital and the Civil Hospital, and many private institutions of this kind are extant. The palace of the governor contains all the public offices and the halls of legislature. It has also a historical chamber, which is full of famous relics that have a bearing on the history of the country. Portraits of all the former rulers and many curious objects adorn this chamber. The building is a relic of the days of Spanish rule and is a remarkable specimen of carving and masonry. It was once the residence of Josefa Ortiz, wife of a valiant figure in the War for Independence. She gave valuable information which aided in the fight for liberty, and enshrined herself in the history of her country.

Señor Coronel Don Francisco Cosio has been governor for many terms. He is a distinguished gentleman of honorable ancestry and besides being a statesman universally esteemed, is patriotic, public-spirited and well-loved by the people.