Chapter IV: The Pyramus. Giaour Dagh and Marash

Swiftness and Depth of Pyramus—Toprak Kalesi—A Snake in
the Grass—Osmanieh Recruits—Politeness and Grave Courtesy
of the Osmanlis—Disturbed State of the Borderland—Robber
Chiefs—Government obliged to suppress them—Stubborn
resistance—Occasional Outbreaks occur even now—Mountaineers
forced to settle in Plain—Osmanieh—A Keurdt like a Sculptured
Figure from Nineveh—A Rayah Host—Yalpouzi River—Devrishli
Bel, the only Pass through the Giaour Dagh—Labourers to reap
the Harvest in the Plain—Keupèk Kalesi—Impracticable Group
of Mountains—An Armenian Protestant Village—The Billali
Pass—Poverty of the People, yet not without Compensating
Advantages—We lose the Way—An Armenian Country Gentleman’s
House—A Warm Welcome to Starved Guests—Grace before and Music
during Meat—Toros Chakrian’s House—Our Host’s Children—Our Host
attacked by Brigands a few Weeks before—Giaour Dagh Minor and
Lake—Ak Sou and Bridge—Khan at Marash—An Inspection of Weights
and Measures—American Presbyterian Mission—Population of
Marash—Religious Sects—Success of Protestant Mission—Military
Service Tax—Climate and Health of Marash—Cheapness of
Provisions—Trade and Manufactures—Fortress—Images of Lion and
Panther—Visit to the Churches of the Protestant Mission—Routes
from Osmanieh to Marash—Pass once closed by an Ancient
Wall—Islahiyeh—Roads from Interior to Alexandretta could be
easily constructed 76-103