Chapter XII: Lystra. Kestel. Mauga. Mout

Excursion to Kara Dagh—Extreme Penury of the Provincial
Governments—Village of Kilbassen—Its Sufferings during
the Famine—The Land Changing Hands—Turkish Population
Diminishing—Bin Bir Kilissé (The Thousand and one
Churches)—Village of Maden Shehir—A Turkish Betrothed
Maiden—Pastoral Music—Our Host—Ruins—Probably this is the Site
of Lystra—Kenger Coffee—Huge Antique Water Vessel—Brigands
in Bozalla Dagh—The Kaimakam’s Warning to us—The People
Better than their Reputation—Deep Limestone Ravine—Village
of Geuèzz—The Mukhtar’s Granary—Thunder-storm—The Village in
Famine Time—A Delicate Question—Passes through the Taurus
to the Sea Coast—Echoes of Thunder in the Ravine—Native
Archæologists—Geudètt—Its Yaila and Hospitable People—Climate
and Appearance of this Highland District—Kestel Dagh
and Village—Hospitality is refused us—The Kaimakam’s
Secretary—Visitors—Their Discontent with their own
Government—A Conversation on Politics—Ruins of an Ancient
City—Church—Fort—The Valley of the Gieuk Sou (Calycadnus)—A
Night with the Yourouks—The Rock Fortress of Mauga—Tremendous
Rock Precipices and Abysses—Arabic Inscription—Heat of the
River Valley—Intense Solitude of the Pine Woods—Fountain of
Mout—Castle of Mout, and Mausolea of the Sons of Karaman
Oglou—The Fountain at Evening 301-333