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Chapter VI: Part 6

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I shall now leave Truxillo, but before I go on board, shall just notice a little incident. Truxillo is about six miles distant from Huanchaco, which is the sea port town of that quarter. In going down to this port, I happened to get a very bad horse, which soon becoming restive, I was obliged to leave it at a house upon the road, and to walk down under a burning sun. After I had walked more than half the way, a person came riding up to me and offered me a horse, which of course I accepted. He told me he had observed me on foot from a distance, and had pushed forward to offer me assistance. Upon entering into conversation I found my obliging friend was a peasant, belonging to a neighbouring village, where he had a family to which he was returning. We spoke a little about education in general, and of his family in particular. I learned from him that he could read, and was anxious that his children should be well instructed. I asked him if he had ever seen the New Testament, to which he replied in the negative, and from less to more, he intimated to me that he would be glad to purchase one if he could find it, for the use of himself and of his children. When we arrived at Huanchaco, he would accept of no remuneration for his kindness, and as I found my luggage there not embarked, I brought him a New Testament and made him a present of it, in return for his unsolicited and friendly attentions. He received it most thankfully, and we parted.

On the 24th we sailed for Guayaquil, but as we carried a gentleman with us at the request of the government, we had to call at Paita to land him there. We cast anchor in that port on the 26th, after sun-set, and early next morning I went ashore to see the place, and took three New Testaments with me. I went into a store near the landing-place, and being invited, took a seat upon a bale of cotton. After some general conversation, I opened my treasure, and offered the New Testaments for sale at one dollar each, and in a few minutes they were bought. Some little time after, I was asked if I had any more. I replied that I had, but that they were in the ship. I immediately went on board, and just as we had got our anchor up, a boat came along-side, in which I recognized the person who had asked me for more New Testaments. He came on board and bought two dozen, for which he paid me eighteen dollars. As we were by this time under way, the boat had to return ashore without loss of time, whilst we, with a most propitious gale, made for this port.—On the evening of the 29th we cast anchor off the small town of Puná, on the island of the same name. You will remember that this island is famous in the conquest of Peru, by the Spaniards. According to the accounts of it that remain, it seems to have been very populous at that time. It is not so now. There is, on the whole island, only one little village, namely, the one I have mentioned, and which does not contain above 200 inhabitants. We landed at this little place for a pilot to conduct us up the river. I took with me, as I had done at Paita, three New Testaments. When we landed, we found some people on the beach, to whom we communicated intelligence of the rapid progress of Bolivar. We were invited into one of the houses, and after having talked a little upon various subjects, I opened my casket and presented my New Testaments, which they were all very curious to see. Whilst they were looking through them, one of the neighbours came in. “Here!” said one who was examining the New Testament, “here is a book that will tell you about the beginning of the world, and a great many other things.” His friend replied, that he cared very little about the _beginning_ of the world, but that he wished to know something about the _end of it_. Upon hearing this, I told him that the book he had in his hands was the very book that would suit him, as it would inform him particularly about the end of the world. I sold the three New Testaments in this same house, and as our captain had by this time made arrangements with the pilot, we got on board again, and set sail. On the following night (the 30th) we arrived at this place, at eight o’clock. Before we cast anchor, an English gentleman came on board, to whom I had a letter of introduction. He kindly invited me to his house, where I am comfortably lodged, and from which I now write you.

I intend to stop in this place only a few days, during which I shall endeavour to dispose of as many New Testaments as I can, and in the way that may be most profitable. I now close this letter, and shall inform you of the success I meet with here, in my next communication.

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_Guayaquil, 11th October, 1824._

My letter of the 5th current will inform you of the motives and objects which have brought me to this place. It will also inform you of what progress I have made in the circulation of the Holy Scriptures, and in objects connected therewith, from my leaving Lima till my arrival in this quarter. I proceed, therefore, to state to you the occurrences of Guayaquil in reference to these matters.

Some time ago, and of which I believe I informed you, I sent from Lima twenty New Testaments to a Gentleman here, to be sold at one dollar each, if opportunities should offer, of disposing of them among his friends. This gentleman holds a principal situation in the government, and had been recommended to me by a relation of his in Truxillo, as a person desirous of doing good. Upon my arriving here, I called upon him, and found him to be a person worthy of the honourable appellation just mentioned. He told me he had disposed of the New Testaments, and he gave me twenty dollars which he had received for them.

As soon as I had reached this place, I mentioned to some persons that I had a supply of New Testaments for sale, and in consequence I sold one hundred and sixty-eight copies. After thinking for some time upon what would be the speediest and most effectual way of disposing of the New Testaments, it occurred to me that the best thing I could do would be to print an advertisement, and to give notice of the sale by posting these up in the public places of the different towns I pass through on my journey. This, you will see, would at once draw the attention of the _public_. The only objection that occurred to me was, that it would be a kind of challenge to our opponents, or at least an intimation of our hostile operations. This obstacle I kept in mind, but did not think our adversaries would be able to make any effectual resistance. More powerful, I believe, are those who are for us than those who are against us. The encouragement to make such an attempt as this, arises from the great and happy changes already effected by the revolution going on in this country, and, I trust, now concluding. I could not have ventured upon such a thing under the Spanish government. What is going forward in these countries is truly a _revolution_ in every sense of the word.

I accordingly wrote out an advertisement, and got it printed in the government printing-office in this place. Translated into English it runs thus: “To be sold in (_a_) the New Testament of our Lord Jesus Christ, in one volume, well printed, and neatly bound, at the low price of _eight_ rials. This sale will continue for (_b_) days only, and it is expected that those who wish to procure for themselves this sacred code of our Holy Religion, will improve the occasion now offered them.” As this advertisement was intended not for this place alone, but for others also, I left the blank (_a_) to be filled up with the pen to suit each place, and the blank (_b_) I leave for the number _one_, _two_, or _three_, as my time will permit, and as the importance of the town visited may require. When these notices were finished, I caused some to be put up in this place, saying that the sale would be for _three_ days only. In a few minutes after putting them up, I enjoyed the great satisfaction of seeing it produce much better effects than I had anticipated. At _noon_ the notices were put up and at _one o’clock_ I had sold _fifteen_ copies. In the next hour I sold _forty-seven_. In the course of an hour and a half during the time the store was open in the afternoon, I sold _one hundred and twelve_. Next day I sold 262 copies. The day following, which was also one of the three days of sale, happened to be a festival day held to celebrate the declaration of independence in this town four years ago. The stores in consequence were all shut, and public business suspended. Nevertheless, there were _eleven_ copies sold during a few minutes before breakfast, when the store was open for some particular purpose. To-day I set out on my journey to Quito, bu I may perhaps sell some before I go, as I cannot go off before four o’clock in the afternoon, having to sail up the river with the flood tide.

The whole number disposed of in this place is 615, and for these I have received 542 dollars 2 rials.—The greater part were sold one by one at eight rials each, but sometimes I sold a dozen or two together, and in that case sold them somewhat cheaper. To the number of copies already mentioned, I add the 30 disposed of, as noticed in my last, and three copies sold in Truxillo of those in superior binding, making in all 648 copies since the commencement of my tour. To the amount of monies received in the same time as above, I add, what I received from Dr. O’Donovan, from the gentleman here as previously mentioned, and for those sold in Paita and Puná, and the three just noticed, making 153 dollars, amounting in all to 695 dollars 2 rials. Of this sum, I have remitted 500 dollars to Messrs. Cochran and Robertson, of Lima, with whom I keep my accounts. This sum will be applied to carrying forward the translation and printing of the Scriptures into the _Peruvian_ language, agreeably to your resolution upon the subject, communicated to me some time ago.

Need I add anything to the above by way of comment or observation? Is it not most gratifying to see so many seeds sown in this town? Let us join together in prayer, that He who causeth the rain to descend from heaven to fertilize the ground, and to raise into fruit the puny efforts of man, may cause his blessing to be upon the seed sown in this place. As it is sown in weakness may it be raised in strength, and produce at least a hundred fold.

P.S.—_12th October._—Our boat did not sail yesterday, and thus gave me the opportunity of adding 71 to the number of copies formerly mentioned, and 71 dollars to account.

The preceding sentence was written in the morning, and now, in the afternoon, I add 52 copies more, making in all, in Guayaquil, 738.

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_Guaranda, 25th October, 1824._

My last letter to you was written in Guayaquil on the 12th instant. On that occasion I noticed that I had taken that freedom with you in regard to writing, which we often take with our friends without the danger or the thought of offending on the one hand or on the other. The letter referred to was short and could not well be longer from the circumstances in which I was then placed. Before I had finished it, the master of the canoe in which I was to leave Guayaquil, had knocked at the door according to appointment, at four o’clock in the morning. Although, however, that letter was short, I did not consider that I had left you uninformed as to the circumstances that had occurred during my journey from Lima to Guayaquil, as well as those that had occurred in the place last mentioned. I wrote upon that subject two letters of some length, to the British and Foreign Bible Society, detailing these matters with some degree of minuteness. Of these two letters I requested Mr. B. to forward you copies, and doubt not that such will be forwarded to you immediately upon their arrival.

In the two letters referred to, I stated the measures I had taken in circulating the Scriptures in Guayaquil, and the unexpected and happy results which followed in the sale of 738 copies of the New Testament. It was gratifying, I assure you, to see in this manner almost the whole city come together to hear the word of God, and it was not less so, to pass along the streets and to count one, two, three, a dozen perhaps, diligently engaged in reading their New Testaments. Who could pass along under such circumstances, in any other frame than that of thanksgiving and prayer?—thanksgiving to God for having disposed so many to attend to the things which belong to their everlasting peace, and which I may say, have been hitherto hid from their eyes,—and prayer, that the eyes of their understanding might be enlightened, that they might be turned from darkness to light, and might enjoy that inheritance which the Lord hath prepared for them that love him. Nor could I feel otherwise, nor withhold from expressing those feelings, as I walked over the spot where sin has deposited his spoils won in that place. The small and the great are there. My prayer to God was, that through means of the word of life then circulated, many from that spot might, at the voice of the Archangel, awake to life and everlasting glory.

We read in the sacred page upon a certain occasion, some thousands of years ago, when the sons of God came to present themselves before him, Satan came also among them. The same seems to have been his practice in Jerusalem, in Antioch, in Philippi, as well as upon other occasions of ancient and modern date. That he was not absent on this occasion in Guayaquil, we may _a priori_ be assured of. That he was successful, however, I have not yet learned. I did, indeed, overhear that some priest had said something against the reading of the New Testament, but I had some suspicion that the information was not quite correct. As a counterpart to this, several priests and friars bought of the New Testaments. At one time, I think there were _five_ friars in the store at one time to purchase, and one of these took _thirteen_ copies. At another time, a friar, who had bought a New Testament, came afterwards inquiring very anxiously for the whole Bible, and was much disappointed upon learning that there was none. I told him that some two months after, some Bibles might be expected, and that as only 50 copies were ordered, he had better put down his name if he wished to secure one for himself. Upon my telling him so, he immediately subscribed for _two_ copies. This person told me that all the friars in his convent had bought New Testaments, and that they were all highly pleased with them. It is really encouraging to see the word of God circulate in this quarter with little or no opposition.—I may add further regarding this matter, that I was upon very good terms with the rector of Guayaquil during the few days I remained there. I paid him a visit, accompanied by a friend to introduce me, and next day I received a very courteous visit from him in return, accompanied by the ecclesiastic next in rank to himself. He has, besides, given me two letters of introduction, warmly recommending me to his friends in Quito. Do not all these things, my dear friend, lay us under obligations to give thanks unto him in whose hands are the hearts of all? And are not such occurrences calculated to encourage us to labour in this sacred cause and to ask of the Lord _liberal things_ according to his promise? I am persuaded you so feel, and so act, but still it is not unnecessary to remind you of these matters, to stir up your pure mind by way of remembrance, and thus to add line upon line. Let us then continue instant in prayer, that the Lord would pour out his blessing upon this country, already white unto harvest.

A little after four o’clock on the morning of the 14th, I got into the canoe which was to conduct me from Guayaquil to Babahoyo. The river Guayaquil is navigable at all seasons as far as the latter place, a distance of about 40 miles, and in the rainy season, when the river is high, boats pass some 15 miles farther up. The navigation is performed in balsas, and in large and small canoes. The small canoes are made of a single tree hollowed out, and the large ones are built like our boats, and capable of carrying several tons, but made in the shape of the small canoes. It was in one of the large ones I took my passage to Babahoyo. It is in general by no means a pleasant voyage that is made between these two places. On the one hand, the heat is very great; and on the other, the mosquitos are numerous and active. The effects arising from the bite of this troublesome insect are still, at the distance of more than a week, very visible on my hands, and also on my legs, where they were defended by the stocking only. On the first day, owing to the excessive heat, I felt very unwell, but enjoyed good health on the following day. On this occasion I experienced from some of my fellow-passengers those friendly and soothing attentions which adorn the female character, and which, on several occasions, I have seen exhibited in regard to myself and to others during my residence in this country. We were nearly three days in our passage. The river _abounds_ with alligators. I might almost say, it is _full_ of them. Great numbers lie basking on the banks with their horrible mouths wide open, and upon coming close up to them they plunge into the river, and swim about like so many logs floating around you. At one time I counted, in a very short distance, all at one view, on one side of the river, to the number of forty, and at another time I saw twenty, close together. Very few are found at or below Guayaquil, as the water is salt for some miles above the town. In the rainy season, however, when the great quantity of fresh water keeps the salt water down below the town, the alligator is found farther down. I made several inquiries as to the feeling of this animal towards man in this quarter, but could not get any well authenticated information of its seizing upon human kind, and the frequency of bathing in the river speaks the same language. It seems, in this river, still to observe that fear and regard to man which all the animal creation once possessed, but which has now in regard to several animals been effaced, and in most cases, I believe, through the cruelty of man towards the animal creation. All accounts, however, agreed in affirming that the alligators here often seize upon hogs, and other small animals, when found close to the river. Whilst speaking upon this subject I may also notice, that in all the low lands between the sea and the mountains in the parts subject to periodical rains, lions, tigers, and serpents abound, particularly the latter. The lions I am told do not attack man, nor does the serpent, except when trode upon.

Many topics of conversation occurred during our passage up the river. The sale of our New Testaments was known to every body, and thus afforded a subject of conversation in which we could all take a part. Of course I had also something to say upon this subject, as it was well known that I was the seller of them. Two copies were on board, one of which had been purchased by the captain of our canoe, and the other by one of the passengers. I have already told you of the evangelical aspect of the streets of Guayaquil, and the same aspect at times was exhibited on board, both of the New Testaments being frequently in use at the same time. During the many things that were said, arising from what was read, (the reading being frequently aloud,) a conversation took place, the relation of which will probably interest you, and more especially as it affords a specimen of the progress of _thinking_ upon religious subjects in this country. The subject was a delicate one, but so much the better, as a specimen. The worship of saints was the matter treated of, though I do not remember what gave rise to it. I stated my views upon the subject, appealing to the Scriptures and to common sense in support of my opinion. A very keen and interesting conversation immediately took place, in which four, besides myself, took a part, and you will be surprised when I tell you that three of the four took my side of the question. The one who was opposed to us happened to be a stout disputant, and thus gave occasion to a thorough discussion of the matter. Among other things brought forward to show the incongruity and sinfulness of the worshipping of saints, I stated that the Apostle Peter himself, (who according to them is the prince of Apostles and saints,) refused this worship, and in proof of this, I referred him to the tenth chapter of the Acts. This passage was turned up and read by one of the company, and it appeared to all of us, except one, conclusive upon the subject. Our opponent, however, defended himself, by alleging that although Peter, upon that occasion, refused worship, he refused it because he was not glorified, but that after death things were otherwise.—You agree then, I remarked, that worship is not to be given to the saints when upon earth, but it is lawful, you say, to give this worship to them after their death. Let us then go to another passage, I said, and see who of the inhabitants of heaven are to be worshipped. I then referred to the last chapter of the Revelation, namely, “When I had heard and seen, I fell down before the feet of the angel who showed me these things. Then saith he unto me, See thou do it not, for I am thy fellow servant, and of thy brethren the prophets, and of them who keep the sayings of this book: _Worship God_.” This passage cut off the refuge which our friend had taken in his distinction between worshipping a saint on earth, and a saint in heaven. He then took refuge in _the church_, alleging that since authority had been given to it by Jesus Christ to order and direct the concerns of his kingdom after his ascension, it was our duty to obey its orders, and one of these orders was, the praying to the saints. You know, of course, how _I_ would have got rid of this objection, that is, by sweeping away this authority of the church altogether, and I stated this to be my opinion. The captain of our canoe, who took a large share in the conversation, and who saw in the church an authority to which he considered himself bound to submit, assailed our opponent by another argument, and a very effectual one. He came close up to him, and with an air of having something in his mind worth saying, “Is it not,” said he, “the duty of children to reverence their parents, and to obey them readily and constantly?”—“Certainly it is,” replied his friend. Our Captain continued: “And if a parent should tell his child to steal, to lie, and such like things, should the child obey?”—“Certainly not,” was the reply. “You are right,” says the Captain, “and that is just our case with the church. It is our duty to obey it, as it is our duty to obey our parents, but if our parents or the church bid us do what is obviously wrong, in that case it is our duty to _disobey_.” You see what an excellent argument this was, and it completely silenced the other, and left him without any thing to say upon the subject, except mere general talk and repetition. Our Captain having gained this triumph, turned to one of the four, who seemed rather to acquiesce in the strength of our arguments from the Scripture, than zealously to defend our side, and put this question to him. “Can you tell me,” said he, “why the priest reads all the service and prays in Latin, a language of which I do not understand a word, and thus leaving me, when in church, as a mere statue, without knowing what I am saying or doing?” This was a hard question, and it was answered significantly, but without words. Our Captain next comes up to me, and says, “You see every one sets up his little machine to gain his dollar.” I thought I understood his meaning, although couched under a figure, but as I wished it to be well understood by all, I asked him what he meant by it. After a short delay he answered me, by stating, that the church and the priests had made various laws and ceremonies for their own benefit, and that they might thus put a dollar into their pocket.—Various other things were said, and among which the New Testament was praised as a book any one might read and understand, and not like the prayers of the priests, which no one understood, perhaps not themselves. One of the four alluded to, towards the end of the conversation, said, in a very distinct voice, and in the hearing of all, “If I were going to die, this is my faith; I believe that there is one God who made all things, and that there is one Redeemer who died for us, and who rose again; and as to the worshipping of saints, and all the rest of it, I know nothing.” I should not omit an observation of one of our female passengers. When two of us were debating about the worship of saints, she observed to me that she did not like such conversation. Why so, I replied. Because, said she, if saints are not to be worshipped, then it will follow that we are not to pray to the Virgin Mary neither. I said, in reply, that I thought her reasoning worth being heard, as it was a fair deduction, and requested her to put it in the form of a question, to the one of the four who appeared the coolest, and who, as I said before, rather acquiesced in the strength of our arguments than defended our side. As soon as silence was obtained, the question was put, and the answer returned was just what I would have said if called upon to reply.

You will see in the whole of this conversation a freedom of thinking and of speaking, which you probably did not expect, and I confess that I was myself greatly surprised at it, notwithstanding the many opportunities I have had of observing the sentiments of the people of this quarter. In the higher and more enlightened classes of society, I have often met with liberal sentiments, but as the two persons who took the chief part in the above conversation were of the lower class, it was both new to me and interesting.

On our arrival at Babahoyo, I found lodgings difficult to be procured, as the houses seemed all occupied. As soon as this was known to one of my fellow-passengers, he took me to his father’s house, where I enjoyed comfortable bed and board, kindly bestowed and free of expense, during the two days I remained in that town. As I intended to make no stay in this place, but push on, I gave no public intimation regarding the sale of New Testaments; yet, through means of my fellow-passengers it came to be known that I had these for sale, and in consequence I disposed of fifty-one copies for which I received fifty dollars, one copy being a present. I may mention, before leaving this place, that it lies very low on the banks of the river, and is overflowed in the rainy season. The church stands upon a spot elevated some feet above the surrounding parts; and I am told it is common for the people in that season to go up to the church door in their canoes. The usual practice in passing from Babahoyo to Quito, is to hire mules at the former place to Guaranda, and again to hire anew from that to Quito. I accordingly hired mules for this place, which cost me five dollars each, on account of the badness of the roads, though four dollars is the usual charge. The weather at the present time is very unfavourable, and it is singular to see it so at this season of the year. I had counted upon fair weather in this quarter during the whole time of my journey, according to the information which I had obtained in Lima, and am thus less prepared for rain than otherwise I would have been had I expected it. I may add also, that I like rain now worse than ever, as during these two years past I have not seen any. From Babahoyo to the base of the mountains the roads were very deep and bad. When we began to ascend the mountains, we found ourselves still worse situated. The very steep ascent, and the clayey slippery roads, rendered the journey very unpleasant, and not a little dangerous from the slipping of the mules, which were frequently brought down upon their knees. I shall not detain you for the present with a minute account of the journey to this place, suffice it to say, that I arrived, here, the day before yesterday in the afternoon in perfect health and safety; and I feel, I assure you, upon looking back upon the road over which I have passed, a new motive for thanksgiving to the Father of mercies for my daily and hourly preservation. I shall just farther add, as descriptive of the mountains, that on the first day of our ascent, the barometer in the valley, in the morning, stood at 29.950, and where we lodged in the evening it stood at 26.141, which indicates a great rise. Where we lodged on the evening following it stood at 22.085. On the next day we passed the highest part of the ancient Indian road, where the barometer stood at 21.322.

The situation of Guaranda, from which I now write you, is about ten miles S. W. of the great Chimborazo. This king of mountains raises its majestic hoary head full in view. It is deeply covered from the top, almost to the base, with everlasting snow—snow which must have fallen, if not in the days of Adam, at least in the days of Noah. To-morrow I set off for Riobamba, when I expect to have a fuller view of it, as the road passes along it close to the skirts of its snowy mantle. Guaranda contains about 1500 inhabitants, mostly Indians, who all speak the ancient Peruvian language. There are several little towns in the glens within the district, containing in all 14,000 inhabitants, and who all speak the same language. You will recollect that this is the language into which the New Testament has lately been translated in Lima, as mentioned in my former letters, and you will see here a still more ample field of usefulness for this translation, and the more so, when I add, that not only in this district is the language spoken, but also in all the towns in this quarter as far as Quito. What a wonderful extent and uniformity must the ancient Peruvian empire have had. The inhabitants of this town and the Indians of Peru have exactly the same features and countenance, at well as language.

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_Riobamba, 31st October, 1824._

Soon after my arrival in the town of Guaranda, I called upon the Governor, and made known to him the object of my journey in this quarter. I found him a man of intelligence, and a friend of the British and Foreign Bible Society. Observing him to be a person worthy of all confidence, and very desirous of the instruction of his countrymen, I made known to him, without reserve, the plans and operations of the Bible Society, and that I was travelling to forward its sacred object. He was much pleased with the brief view of the Society which I gave him. He wished to see the New Testaments, and became the first purchaser himself. He also called upon those around to buy for themselves, by telling them to come and learn to be Christians from this book. I received many friendly attentions from him during the two days I remained in that place, and I think we formed a kind of friendship which may contribute to forward the objects of the Society in that quarter on future occasions. Notwithstanding my printed notices, and the encouragement of the Governor, I sold but a very few copies in that place, the whole number being thirteen. One cause of there being so few sold is, that almost all the inhabitants are Indians, and do not understand the Spanish language, at all events cannot read it. To which may be added the general apathy which always exists in small towns. The few copies, however, which have been circulated in that town, will form a beginning (I may say of an era) in that place, and will create a desire for more, both there and in the villages around, when, on a future occasion, some pilgrim from your Society shall climb the Andes to visit their abode.

On the 29th I left Guaranda on my way to this town. You will see by the map, that in visiting Riobamba, I was going out of the straight road to Quito, but I was anxious to visit this place, if peradventure the Lord would incline the hearts of some here, as in other places to receive the word of God; and, generally speaking, my wish is to pave the way for future operations, as well as to drop a few seeds whilst so doing, and thus to be a pioneer in your service, in the service of this people, and, I trust, in the service of God. I told you that Guaranda, and the villages around it, lay upon the Andes; they are not, however, at the top, but lie on the western side or declivity of the great ridge, or Cordillera. After leaving Guaranda, there is nearly a whole day’s climbing before you reach the top. Upon reaching the highest parts of the ridge, you have something like a plain, though of no great extent; and out of this plain, or rather this mountain, and from your very feet, rises the great Chimborazo. From Guaranda we turned our faces towards this great mountain, and began to ascend. As we approached it, it began to frown, and to forbid our drawing nearer. The rain, in a little time, began to fall very heavily; we pushed on; the hail succeeded, accompanied by vivid lightning, whose rapid flight, from our elevated situation, we could trace from heaven to earth. To crown the whole, the loud thunder rolled along as if Chimborazo were tumbling down upon us. To pursue our journey, under such circumstances, would have been foolish, and perhaps fatal. We accordingly turned our backs upon the mountain, and began to descend, and to seek refuge in the first hut we could come to. After some little time we descried a thatched cottage, but we could not reach it, as the descent to it from the ridge, along which the road lay, was too rapid for our mules. Another and another we had to pass in this way, without being able to take shelter from the storm. We at length found a house to which we could descend, and I rode on towards it, and made inquiry if we could be lodged there. I received an answer in bad Spanish, saying, they did not understand what I said. I was obliged, therefore, to wait till the guide arrived, who understood the Indian language, and upon his putting the same question which I had put, we obtained refuge from the storm, and found, in our circumstances, the cottage converted into a palace.

I thus found myself in a cottage belonging to one of the indigenous inhabitants of the country, and had thus an opportunity of learning some things which could not have been so well learned in any other situation. I found that the inhabitants of this hut understood only their native language; and learned that this was the case with all the rural inhabitants of these quarters. The language spoken is that of Peru, into which, through your beneficence, the New Testament has been translated, and part of which will soon be printed. The need of having the word of God translated into this language, is thus rendered more evident, and we see the field to be watered by it increased.

Towards the evening the sky cleared up, and as the sun was setting, the aspect around became beautiful. I stepped to a little distance from the cottage, and reached the road on the ridge which we had left some hours before. As I walked backwards and forwards in this spot, enjoying the serene and peaceful evening, I felt gratitude rise in my heart to the Father of mercies, for my protection and shelter from the storm. I had just gone over that beautiful hymn, of which the first and last verses follow:

“When all thy mercies, O my God,
My rising soul surveys;
Transported with the view, I’m lost,
In wonder, love, and praise.

“Through all eternity to Thee
A joyful song I’ll raise;
For, oh, eternity’s too short
To utter all thy praise.”

I had just repeated this companion of my travels, and was beginning to descend to the cottage, when I observed a person coming up, mounted on a very good horse, and leading another still better. I wondered to see him bend his course to the uninhabited mountains at such a late hour, and had the curiosity to wait his approach, to make inquiry. “Pray friend,” said I, “where can you be going this way at so late an hour?”—“I am seeking you,” was the reply.—“Seeking me!” I replied. “Yes,” said he, “I have a letter for you from the Governor of Guaranda.” I received and opened the letter, and read, in the language of friendship, that my good friend, dreading that I should be worsted by the storm, had sent an excellent horse for me, with orders to his servant to travel on until he should find me, at whatever hour it might be, and to see me safe in Riobamba. Whatever might have been my feelings before, they were, at least, now “lost in wonder, love, and praise.” I should have mentioned, also, that the servant delivered me a little basket, which I found to be filled with provisions for our journey, and into which, also, the hand of friendship itself had dropped a few sweet cakes. All these things, under the circumstances in which I found myself, had a powerful effect upon my mind, and encouraged me anew to hope in God and to persevere in his service.

In a few minutes we stepped down to the hut, procured some provisions for the horses, some repast for ourselves, and passed the night as comfortably as we could. Early next morning we began to prepare for our journey. I had given our hostess a rial now and a rial then to give her confidence in my honesty; for there is some distrust in regard to provisions bestowed upon strangers, and it is founded, I believe, on experience. Before setting out, I paid her all her demands, and gave her a little more; upon which she lifted up both her hands, and prayed for a blessing upon me, and thus we parted. After travelling for some time, Chimborazo looked out from the clouds, the first appearance of which, I confess, filled me with a kind of dread, more especially as I thought it frowned upon us again. As we went on, however, the day brightened, and we reached the mountain in due time, and took up our lodging in an uninhabited house on the side of it. During my evening walk the clouds entirely disappeared from the mountain, and it seemed to sit down in beautiful splendour beside me, and thus we became more than reconciled to each other. Next morning the same beautiful appearance was exhibited as we set out on our way to Riobamba.

At mid day we reached this place, which contains about 3000 inhabitants, with a considerable population in the villages around. I called upon the Governor, and presented him a letter of introduction which I had brought from the Governor of Guaranda. In this gentleman I also found a friend, and an encourager of our object. He directed me to the house of a friend, where I have a comfortable lodging. Upon stating to him my object, and showing him the advertisement which I wished to fix up in the public parts of the town, he ordered his clerk to fill up the blanks according to my directions, and then sent one of the Alguazils to put them up. He bought six New Testaments himself, and during the two days of my stay here, I have disposed of 35 copies. To-morrow I set out for Ambato, accompanied by a soldier, which the Governor has ordered to attend me by way of a guide and a guard. Considering the shortness of my stay here, and considering that many more New Testaments would have been bought had time been afforded, I thought it advisable to leave 50 copies in the hands of the Governor, who kindly undertook to dispose of them as circumstances offered. For the same reason I left 50 copies with him to be forwarded by the first opportunity to the Governor of Guaranda. I have also had another object in view in doing so, and that is to convert, as it were, these individuals into members and agents of your Society, the importance of which you will at once see.

I have already noticed to you that the rural inhabitants of the district of Guaranda speak the Indian language only. The same also may be said of all the districts in this quarter, as far as Quito, I formerly stated to you, that in Peru a million of souls stood in need of the translation of the Scriptures into the Quichua language, and you now see how many thousands more may be added to this number. I have no doubt but the importance of the translation in question will lead you to extend your beneficence to the translating and printing of the whole Scriptures into this language. When I find persons, particularly clergymen, with whom I can communicate with confidence, I state to them what has been done in regard to this translation, and the use that may be made of it in instructing the indigenous inhabitants of this quarter, which is by far the most numerous class of the population. To such individuals I mention, also, the happy effects produced by the schools in the Gaelic and Irish languages. I have succeeded in convincing many of the importance and practicability of educating the native population, and am much encouraged by the interest I find taken in this matter, by many persons of name and influence in the places I have visited. In this town, the prior of one of the convents, and the rector of the town, have promised to forward this object as far as lies in their power, and on my part I have promised to forward them some copies of this translation as soon us they are ready.

On the whole, there is great cause for thanksgiving, in seeing the Scriptures meet with so ready a reception in this quarter, and the more so when we consider that this is the first time this treasure has been offered them. Let us pray that the word of God may have free course in this place, and that it may be glorified.

* * * * *

_Quito, 8th November, 1824._

Through the tender mercies of the Lord I arrived in this city yesterday morning in health and safety. The same gracious hand who has guided me hitherto has provided for me a lodging in this place, in the house of the Marquis de San José, where I enjoy all the comforts that kindness and plenty can bestow. My last letter to you was dated the 31st ultimo, from Riobamba, and detailed the various circumstances that occurred in my journey from Guayaquil to that place. It now remains for me, therefore, to state the particulars of my journey from Riobamba until my arrival in this city.

Early on the morning of the 1st current, I set out for Ambato, and arrived there safely in the afternoon. Ambato is a larger town than Riobamba, and may contain 5000 people. In this place I found myself comfortably lodged in the house of the Governor. My luggage, along with the New Testaments, did not arrive till the following morning. Upon the arrival of the New Testaments, I showed them to the Governor, and told him of my intention of advertising them for sale, and inquired in what shop or store I could conveniently do so. He answered me, by saying, that his own house was at my service for that purpose. I accordingly stated in the advertisement, that the New Testaments were on sale at the house of the Governor, and that the sale would continue but one day. It afforded me much satisfaction to see the interest taken in this matter by the Governor and by his lady, both of whom took great pleasure in showing the New Testaments to those who came to buy, and when I had to go out to pay or return a visit, they kindly supplied my place until my return.

You cannot but have observed the liberality, kindness, and encouragement I have met with from the Governors of Guaranda, Riobamba and Ambato, in the service of the Society. These circumstances are very encouraging as to your future labours and expectations in this quarter, and are circumstances of which you will not fail to take advantage. The three individuals mentioned, will be most ready, I am persuaded, on any future occasion, to forward in the most obliging and effectual manner the holy object of your Society. They will also readily lend their influence for the establishment of Bible Societies in their respective districts, as soon as a Society of a national character shall be formed in the capital, to which they may become auxiliaries. Of this Society in the capital, which I have much in view and at heart, I shall inform you afterwards, should it please the Lord to conduct me safely to that place. That you may not, however, lose the advantages already gained by the acquisition of these gentlemen, as co-operators in your work, I shall here give you their names and addresses in the style of the country. “Sᵒʳ Coronel Carlos Araujo, Gobernador de Guaranda; Sᵒʳ Ambrosio Dávalos, Gobernador de Riobamba; Sᵒʳ Nicolas Bácones, Gobernador de Ambato.” In the preceding addresses, I have given you verbatim what you should write in addressing any letter to them. The best manner of communicating with these gentlemen will be through Guayaquil, as that is the nearest port, and with which there is constant intercourse. During the time I remained in Guayaquil, I stopped in the house of Messrs. Robinet and Wheelwright, and found there every facility afforded me in forwarding the work of the Society. If you would communicate with that house in your transactions with Guayaquil, Guaranda, Riobamba, and Ambato, you will find, I am persuaded, all attention paid to your concerns.

I mentioned above, that my advertisement stated the sale to last for one day only. I was, however, detained another day, and thus gave an additional opportunity for purchasing. The whole number sold amounted to forty-seven copies; but a small number, indeed, yet great as a beginning, and as an encouragement. I may mention, also, that the rector and several clergymen bought copies, and that I heard of no opposition.

In one of my letters from Guayaquil I told you that the 200 Bibles you had ordered me had not arrived in Lima when I left that place, and to my no small regret. I have, however, regretted that delay a thousand fold in the course of my journey. I mentioned to you at the same time, that I had bought one Bible in Lima to carry with me, by way of a specimen, and to excite an interest to purchase when a supply should arrive. All my expectations in regard to this have been fully realized. The many offers I have had to purchase this Bible, have filled me with pleasure and with pain; pleasure to see so great a desire for the word of God, and pain in not being able to satisfy that desire. Of the many occasions in which I have been so placed, none was so pleasing, on the one hand, nor so painful, on the other, as that which I experienced with the Rector of Ambato. He had been to visit me, and I went to his house to return his kindness. After experiencing much attention from him, he in a very formal manner urged me to sell him the Bible. I stated to him, upon this occasion, what I had been called on to state upon so many other occasions, namely, that the Bible I had was a kind of common property, that my object in carrying it with me was to show it to all, and to encourage all who wished for it, by informing them that a number of copies were coming, and that their desire would be realized in the possession of this precious volume. He however renewed his request, besought me to let him have it, and urged his claim in the name of all his flock, for whose use he said he particularly wished it. My difficulty here was great, yet I considered my reasons for not parting with this volume still greater, and was thus obliged most unwillingly to withhold what, under other circumstances I would most gladly have bestowed. He said, among other things, to induce me to yield to his request, that I would be able to find a copy in Quito, for he had learned that some had been sold here some time ago, as was actually the case, for 40 copies of the 500 sold in Lima were brought here. I told him that there were some doubts as to my obtaining a copy in Quito, but that I would make inquiry when I should arrive there, and in the event of finding one I should send him my own copy, and at the price at which I purchased the other. Upon these terms we came to an agreement, and he remarked that I should not make any hesitation in regard to the price, for he would willingly pay what should be charged.

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Letters on the Moral and Religious State of South AmericaChapter VI: Part 6

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