Chapter I: Part 1

LETTERS ON THE MORAL AND RELIGIOUS STATE OF SOUTH AMERICA.

DENNETT, PRINTER, LEATHER LANE, LONDON.

LETTERS
ON THE
MORAL AND RELIGIOUS STATE
OF
SOUTH AMERICA,
WRITTEN
DURING A RESIDENCE OF NEARLY SEVEN YEARS
IN
BUENOS AIRES, CHILE, PERU,
AND COLOMBIA.

BY JAMES THOMSON.

PUBLISHED BY JAMES NISBET,
21, BERNERS STREET, LONDON.
Hatchard and Son, Piccadilly; Seeley and Son, Fleet Street;
Hamilton, Adams, and Co., and J. Duncan, Paternoster Row;
W. Oliphant; Waugh and Innes; and W. Whyte and Co., Edinburgh;
M. Ogle; and Chalmers and Collins, Glasgow;
R. M. Tims; and W. Curry and Co., Dublin.

M DCCC XXVII.

TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD CALTHORPE, _&c. &c. &c._

MY LORD,

Knowing the warm, solicitude which your Lordship feels in regard to all endeavours, to promote the moral and religious welfare of the inhabitants of South America, I dedicate these Letters to your Lordship; and I beg of you to accept my sincere thanks for your Lordship’s kind permission thus to give your name to the world, in connexion with the best and highest interests of South America.

I have the honour to be,

MY LORD,

Your Lordship’s

Most obedient Servant,

JAMES THOMSON.

PREFACE.

Soon after my return to England in 1825, I was solicited by several friends to publish extracts from the letters I had written during my residence in South America. To enable me to do this, I was kindly furnished with these letters by the individuals to whom they were addressed. I have at length attended to these solicitations, with this view of creating a greater interest in this country on behalf of that quarter of the world, and in the expectation that this increased interest will turn out to the good of South America.

I have to beg the indulgence of my readers in regard to these letters, from the consideration that they were not written for publication. There will appear also some indistinctness, on account of the letters being addressed to various individuals, whilst they are here classed simply in the order of time in which they were written. To which may be added, among their defects, the abruptness arising from the circumstance of what is here given being only extracts. If, however, some interest should be excited in regard to South America by the publication of these letters, and if there should arise from this some good to that country, I shall not be sorry for thus having given them to the public, notwithstanding the disadvantages under which they appear.

I am now about to return to that quarter of the world, and trust that the same gracious hand which protected me and guided me in my former wanderings there, will still conduct me, and will enable me to sow seed which may spring up unto eternal life. Ten days after this date, I embark for Mexico, as the agent of the British and Foreign Bible Society. I go fraught with a sacred treasure, with some thousands of copies of the Holy Scriptures. Besides circulating these, which are nearly all in the Spanish language, I am commissioned to procure translations of the Scriptures into the native languages of that country, and which are still spoken there by some millions of the inhabitants.

In prosecuting these objects, I intend to travel over the greater part of Mexico and Guatemala. Whilst traversing these parts, I shall probably keep a journal of occurrences, illustrative of the state of the country in a general point of view; and should the small volume now published be favourably received, I may perhaps at some future period have something for the press less unworthy of public attention.

LONDON, 13th February, 1827.

LETTERS ON THE MORAL AND RELIGIOUS STATE OF SOUTH AMERICA.

_Buenos Aires, 5th June, 1820._

I cannot be very particular as to all that has occurred to me since my arrival here, the outlines will be sufficient. I arrived on the 6th October, 1818, after a voyage from Liverpool of twelve weeks and three days, and except about a fortnight, was sick all the time. Soon after my arrival, I made proposals to the Government, regarding the introduction of the Lancasterian System of education. I received promises of meeting with every encouragement in this matter, but these promises, through neglect, were long in producing the desired effect. I was feeling the truth of Solomon’s remark, “Hope deferred maketh the heart sad.” Under these circumstances I was proposing to go into the interior, where I had more positive encouragement held out to me. Just at this time, by application at a better quarter than we had at first applied to, the arrangement was formed by which I was engaged by the magistrates to put their schools, in this city and neighbourhood, upon this plan. Since that time we have been doing more or less in this business, but things in general go on very slowly here, and besides, many political changes have retarded our operations. Notwithstanding, however, I trust the foundation of a good work has been laid, by pursuing of which, I hope to see many thousands reaping the benefits of education, and imbibing the soundest principles of religion and morality from lessons selected from the Holy Scriptures. You will be surprised and pleased when I tell you, these lessons are entirely of my own selection, and printed in this place. In no case, regarding them, has there been any interference or hindrance on the part of the clergy or others. We have now a school going on, with upwards of 100 boys in it, and soon we expect to have others set a going. These things, my dear friend, fill me (as they will do you) with gratitude and thanksgiving. They are small things, in themselves considered, but taking into consideration all the circumstances of this country, they are great, and more especially when considered as a foundation for future operations. In another respect also something has been done, I mean regarding the circulation of the Scriptures. I have got upwards of 400 Spanish New Testaments from the British and Foreign Bible Society, and these I have been able to land here without the smallest hindrance. Several of them have been already distributed, and have met with a ready reception. I have been able also to send some of them into various parts of the country here, and into Chile. Where the word of God circulates, we have every ground to look for good effects, though it may, like seed sown in the earth, appear for a while to be lost. By and by, however, the seed springs up, first the blade, then the ear, and lastly the full corn in the ear. So shall it be with the seed of the word of God, which shall not return void, but shall accomplish the will of God in turning men from darkness to light.

We are in the midst of political commotions here at present, and have been so for some time past. The Lord, however, is the security of his people, he is the Governor among the nations, and all these changes will, I trust, lead to the promoting of his kingdom. Let us join in the prayer, “Thy kingdom come, thy will be done on earth, as it is done in heaven.” For the present, farewell.

* * * * *

_Buenos Aires, 26th July, 1820._

I have got the information contained in your letters, and the printed sheet translated into Spanish, and have presented it to the Magistrates, who have ordered it to be printed in the Buenos Aires Gazette.

I am happy to say the same favourable disposition towards our objects, continues to prevail in this place; and that from Monte Video I have lately received encouraging accounts, which, I hope, will lead to a commencement in that place. I went there about three months ago, to see what could be done. It so happened that General Lecor, the Portuguese Governor, to whom I had letters of introduction, was absent at Maldonado, with the two principal Magistrates. I explained my objects to the chief clergyman, a liberal man, and a particular friend of the Governor’s. He promised to do all he could towards promoting our system of education on the Governor’s return; and I some weeks ago received from him a copy of a letter, which the Magistrates addressed to him upon the subject, and of which I subjoin a translation.

“_Monte Video, 20th May, 1820._

“Sir,—We have read with peculiar pleasure and attention the
memorial which you had the goodness to send us, relative to
the system of instruction established in Europe by Lancaster.
We have the honour of communicating, that it has met with our
particular esteem; and that in consequence, we have resolved to
adopt the said system in this city, as soon as Mr. Thomson can
come here from Buenos Aires, to commence it. Please communicate
this to him, and express our sincere thanks to him for his
zeal towards the youth of this province. May God preserve you
many years.”

* * * * *

_Buenos Aires, 24th May, 1821._

I am now about to leave this city, and to proceed to Chile. I leave the two principal schools going on as I mentioned in my last, and the masters of the others instructed in the monitorian system. What principally enables me to leave the schools here in the confidence that they will go on well, is, that they are under the particular care of one who feels much interest in the new system of instruction, and of general education. This individual is very active, and well fitted to carry into execution what he conceives useful. The person I am speaking of is a priest. We have been associated together in the care of the schools for some time, and have had much intercourse with each other, and we have always been on the most friendly terms.

It was my intention to leave this, at the latest, in October next. Things, however, being favourably arranged, as above mentioned, I have thought it my duty to set out for Chile without loss of time. From my former letters you would learn that the Chilian government has requested me to go there to establish schools on the Lancasterian plan. I had promised to go as soon as the state of the schools here would permit. The Chilian government, through their minister here, continues to shew the same interest as before in regard to this matter, and has now made an agreement with me.

The season is now far advanced, and the Andes are covered with snow. Besides this inconvenience of the mountains, the roads, in some places, are nearly intercepted, so as to render travelling rather insecure. From these considerations, I have resolved, with the advice of my friends, to go by sea, and have taken my passage in the brig Dragon, Captain Green, for Valparaiso, in Chile. Sailing round Cape Horn is by no means so formidable a matter now as it was formerly considered to be. Vessels frequently go round now, and at all seasons. This is now the middle of our winter, and we expect the cold to be severe. I am accordingly preparing myself for it, as well as I can, by providing warm clothing. During the winter the winds are considered more favourable, and vessels make quicker passages. We expect to sail in a day or two, and, I trust, He who guided me over the ocean in coming to this place, will still be with me to preserve me, and to bring me safely to my desired haven.

I leave all my friends here on the best terms, and I leave the place, in many respects with regret. I shall never forget all the kindness I have met with in this city from the Magistrates, and from all classes with whom I have had intercourse. May God reward them. When I gave in my resignation, I said that it was my intention to return here next summer, to visit the schools, and to see how they were coming on. In the kindest manner I was requested not to forget my promise of returning. They were sorry, they said, that it was not in their power to reward me in a pecuniary way, from the lowness of their funds. They begged me to accept of their sincerest thanks for establishing this system of education in the country, from which they said they anticipated the happiest results, in making education general throughout all classes of the people; and they added that, as a mark of respect, they had requested the government to confer on me the honour of citizenship, and which was accordingly done.

* * * * *

_Santiago de Chile, 6th Aug. 1821._

My letter to you of the 16th July, brought down my journal to the day before my leaving Valparaiso. On the 17th I left that place in the afternoon, and at two o’clock on the 19th I said, “Peace be to this city!” I was going to give you some account of the road, and what I met with upon it, but find I have got other things to write which will fill my letter. I shall leave this description till a further opportunity.

You know, already, that I was engaged to come here by this government, and that my passage round the Cape was paid by the same. I therefore looked for a fair and open reception. I have not been disappointed, or, perhaps, I should rather say I have, for I have met with a reception beyond my expectation, I might say to my wish. I have been introduced to the Director and to the Ministers of Government, all of whom express much desire for the speedy establishment of schools _throughout_ Chile. We have got the largest apartment in the University for a school-room. The joiners are busy at work, fitting it up, and we only wait their finishing to begin our operations.

I shall occupy the rest of my letter in giving you a translation of two articles, which bear upon this subject.

On my arrival here, I received a copy of the following order, issued by the Government two days before I reached this city:—

“By supreme authority of this date, I communicate to Don Manuel
Salas the following note.

“Mr. Thomson, who has been engaged to establish in this city
the new system of mutual instruction, has already arrived in
Valparaiso. His Excellency, the Director, has a decided wish
that public education may be general, and is very anxious to
give all possible aid to this establishment for elementary
instruction, as preparatory to the higher branches. He has for
this end appointed you with full powers to forward this object,
in conjunction with Mr. Thomson, and the President of the
Board of Public Education. You will, therefore, do all in your
power to establish it as soon and as perfectly as possible.—A
copy of this order to be sent to the President of Public
Education, and to Mr. Thomson.”

“Office of the Minister of State in Santiago
de Chile, 17th July, 1821.

“JOAQUIN DE ECHEVARRIA.”

Upon enquiring who this Don Manuel Salas was, I found he was a man very highly respected by every one, and a modest but decided philanthropist. I have since been frequently with him, and find him, indeed, as described to me. I next give you an article from the Public Gazette of the 4th current; I think it is from the pen of Salas, but this is only conjecture. It is, however, either from him or from one of the Ministers of Government.

“PUBLIC EDUCATION.

“Ignorance is one of the greatest evils that man can suffer,
and it is the principal cause of all his errors and miseries.
It is also the grand support of tyranny, and ought, therefore,
to be banished by every means from that country which desires
a liberty regulated by laws, customs, and opinion. None can be
happy unless he study religion, morality, and his own rights,
unless he improve by the knowledge of those who have preceded
him, and enter into social connexion, as it were, with those
who in former times, and in other places, cultivated the
sciences and the arts, and who have deposited in their writing,
the fruit of their studies for the improvement of others. The
only way by which we can form such an acquaintance with great
men is _by reading_. The happy day is now arrived when the
infinitely valuable art of reading is to be extended to every
individual in Chile. We have now the pleasure of announcing
this to all classes of the community. This will be considered
as the most interesting news, by those who know its importance,
and who consider it as the basis of solid prosperity. Deeply
impressed with this truth, our benevolent government has
brought to this place Mr. James Thomson, who has established in
Buenos Aires elementary schools upon that admirable system of
Lancaster, which has spread through the world. He is going to
establish schools on the same plan in this city, from which,
as a centre, this system will be propagated through all the
towns of the state. The readiness with which this mode of
education has been generally adopted, its economy, and the
quickness and order with which children learn by it reading,
writing, arithmetic, and the principles of grammar, strongly
recommend it. It has been particularly useful in those places
where rural or mechanical occupations allow but a short time
for instruction. There is, therefore, now no obstacle in
the way for every one in Chile to obtain education. Notice
will be given, from time to time, of the progress of the
central school, which is to serve as a model for others. In
it masters will be instructed, and those masters who show the
most attention in acquiring a knowledge of this system will be
appointed in preference to the other schools.”

* * * * *

_Santiago de Chile, 8th October, 1821._

I seize the opportunity of sending you a few lines by his Majesty’s ship Owen Glendower, which sails for England from Valparaiso immediately. I enclose you a copy of a letter of this date to Mr. Owen, which will inform you of my concerns here, touching the Bible Society, to this date. In addition to this, I shall now communicate to you some notices regarding our schools here, bringing down my accounts upon the subject from the 1st September (the date of my last letter to Mr. S.) to the present day.

I am happy to say, the favourable reception I met with here, and of which I wrote you on the 6th August, was not a momentary feeling. It has been kept up till now, and I might also say, it has rather increased than diminished. Soon after my arrival in this city, a large room in the University was pointed out to me as the place in which we were to begin our school operations. This hall is capable of containing 200 children, according to our plan, and this is a very good number for a model school. This hall was to have been the University Chapel. The building I here call the University, is not occupied at present in the way its name would indicate, though intended for a place of learning. There is, however, another building appropriated to the objects of a college, and of which I may write you afterwards. My present object is to speak of our schools. Through the delay of the joiners in fitting up this place, it was not completed till the 17th September. On that day our school was opened. From day to day our number increased, till, at the end of a fortnight, our number (200) was completed. Since that time, we have been daily importuned to admit others, which we are unable to do. We are, however, about to commence fitting up another large hall in the University buildings. At the present rate of applications, we shall certainly have more in readiness for that second school, by the time it is prepared, than it will contain. The fitting up of others is also talked of. From the short time our school has been going on, it promises to do well. The children are docile and agreeable. I am now so much familiarized with the appearance and manner of the children in these countries, that I feel myself quite at home among them. There is more resemblance to the English or European face among the children and others here, in Chile, than in Buenos Aires. I have been _this moment_ interrupted by one of my scholars, who has called upon me, and brought me a ham, a present from his mother.

All classes seem to take an interest in our schools. We are daily visited. The First Minister of the Government pays us a visit regularly every afternoon. We have already four masters studying the system, and these will be ready in a month or two to open schools on our plan, either in this city or in the provincial towns. In Conception, Coquimbo, and another town of inferior population, they are preparing for establishing schools upon our system. The principal things we stand in need of for the rapid extension of our schools, are slates and printed lessons. I am expecting 2000 slates by the first vessel from England, and am at present getting some lessons printed in the government printing office. To defray the expense of these, we have opened a subscription, which I hope will do well. I have already got upwards of 270 dollars among my English friends here, and expect more.

Thus, you see, the Lord is with us, and blessed be his name. May he, in his own way and wisdom, make his great name glorious in the eyes of Chile, and of all South America.

* * * * *

_Santiago de Chile, 8th October, 1821._

I wrote you a few lines on the 26th February, and then mentioned that it was my intention to visit Chile. Through the gracious providence of the God of the Bible Society, I have now effected my intention. I left Buenos Aires on the 30th May, and sailing round Cape Horn, arrived safely at Valparaiso, after a voyage of forty-four days. After a short stay in that place, to recruit my health, which always suffers at sea, I came to this city, the capital of Chile. Here, the moment of my arrival, I met with a very encouraging reception. You know, of course, that my most prominent object in South America is the promoting of education on the Lancasterian plan. On this footing it was that I experienced so hearty a reception in this place. Great and respected as your Society is, and ought to be, in the eyes of England and of Europe, it would yet be an imprudence to proclaim one’s self your agent here, with the sole or chief object of circulating the Bible. This is not speaking very favourably of the inhabitants of South America, you will say. I confess it, but at the same time, I have told you the truth.[1] Whilst, however, I hold myself forward in the eyes of South America, as a promoter of education and an instructor of youth, I consider myself in all respects as the servant of the British and Foreign Bible Society. I beg you to consider me in this light, and to call upon me with the utmost freedom in whatever way I can, directly or indirectly, promote your blessed work, in making the inhabitants of this vast continent acquainted with the words of eternal life. I have said, my prominent object here is the establishment of schools. I freely and openly profess this, and in consequence am every where hailed as a friend. The little influence I have thus acquired, and the confidence reposed in me, enable me more effectually to promote the circulation of the Scriptures, than if I acted ostensibly and exclusively as your agent. One proof of this I shall give you. I brought with me among my books from Buenos Aires, about sixty Spanish New Testaments. In getting my luggage through the custom-house, I was told, that the books must be inspected by the Bishop. I wished this might be dispensed with, but it was insisted on. I then told the officers, that I was engaged to come here by the Government to establish the Lancasterian schools. That alters the case, said they, and immediately the papers for despatching my books, &c. were signed, and not a single book was so much as looked at either by the Bishop, or by any of the custom-house officers. I was told, before coming here, that there was much less liberality in Chile, as to the circulation of the Scriptures, than in Buenos Aires. I was, therefore, anxious to avoid the inspection of the Bishop above noticed. I understand he has it in his power to prohibit what books he chooses, and that his prohibition holds, unless the Government give, in the individual case, an order to the contrary. I am in expectation of receiving from you very soon 300 of Scio’s translation of the New Testament. These I shall let pass all the forms required, to make proof whether or not the Scriptures are allowed to be introduced into Chile. This, you will perceive, is an object worth ascertaining, and the knowledge of it will be of considerable use in directing us in future. Should the Bishop demur as to their circulation, and wish to keep them, I can, I think, obtain an order of the Government to prevent it; so that we may consider there is no great danger of losing them, in making the trial referred to.

Notwithstanding what I have said above, no interruption to the circulation of the Spanish New Testament has yet been experienced. Soon after my arrival, I gave to an Englishman, who has a shop here, some copies to sell. This man is a Roman Catholic, and I am happy to say, he recommends the Scriptures to the natives of this country, who are of his own religion. He has already sold about twenty. He is very anxious for the arrival of the Spanish Bibles, which I told him I expected, as he thinks he could sell many of them.

In my letters to you, from time to time, when in Buenos Aires, I related to you the state of the circulation of the Scriptures in that place. I am happy to say, that at my leaving it, the prospects regarding this important matter were more favourable than at any former period. I do not mean to say by this, that there was any particular stir about the word of God, or great demand for it; but I mean to convey to you this encouraging truth, that the Scriptures are occasionally bought, and more so than formerly, and that they are increasingly read from year to year. I consider the word of God to have fairly got an entrance into Buenos Aires; and that its prohibition, or any material hindrance to its circulation, is not only unlikely, but, one might say, impossible. I give you this as my opinion, after a residence in that place of more than two years and a half, and an intercourse with various classes of society during that time.

I shall now mention some things not formerly noticed, regarding the circulation of the Scriptures in Buenos Aires, and in the surrounding country.—A military officer, commanding on a station a short distance from the city, has been greatly delighted with the New Testament, and in consequence, very anxious to make others acquainted with it. He recommended the reading of it to several poor people who were unable to purchase it, and requested to have copies to give them, which he obtained. In this way he has distributed a number of copies. Besides those given to the poor, some have been sold by him to those able to pay for them. He used to take me very cordially by the hand when we met, and to speak with pleasure on the beneficence of the Bible Society, and of the great advantages that would arise to his countrymen by a general reading of the Holy Scriptures. I told him I hoped soon to have the whole Bible in Spanish, and in consequence he is all expectation for it. On my leaving Buenos Aires, I gave twenty-four New Testaments to this gentleman, in the confidence of their being distributed in the most judicious manner.

There is a military station and a small town on the east coast of Patagonia, called Rio Negro, in about 42° south latitude. To this place some copies of the New Testament have been sent. One individual, a native of that place, was so pleased with the copy he got, that he requested the person who brought it, to bring several copies on his return for his family and friends. I am personally acquainted with the officer at present commanding at that place, and am pretty certain he will not throw any obstacle in the way of the circulation of the Scriptures. This gentleman attended our school in Buenos Aires, and took with him lessons, &c. to establish schools on his arrival in that place, for which he sailed in May last. The lessons I have referred to I got printed in Buenos Aires for our schools. They are selections from the Scriptures. These lessons, now used in most of the schools, will greatly contribute, I hope, to create a desire to possess the sacred volume, a book which has hitherto been little known in this country.

A Patagonian chief, called Cualli Piachepolon, in the very centre of Patagonia, is in possession of one of your Testaments. This man has been in the habit of visiting Buenos Aires for some years, in order to exchange the few commodities which his country at present produces, for those of Europe. He has hence acquired some knowledge of the Spanish language. Upon hearing some passages of the New Testament read to him, he requested to have the book, that he might, on his return, explain it to his people.

Some copies have been sent to Tucuman, to Salta, &c.; so that your bounty is known, more or less throughout the provinces of the Rio de la Plata; and I have no doubt but, some hundred years hence, the then populous banks of that king of rivers, and the circumjacent country, will gratefully remember the present Committee and Members of the British and Foreign Bible Society.

I close my account of Buenos Aires, for the present, by noticing, that some individuals, upon obtaining the New Testament, and hearing of your great and extended efforts in distributing the Holy Scriptures, wondered how they had been taught that the English were not Christians. When speaking on religion, it is common to use the word Christian and Protestant in contradistinction to each other, meaning, by the former, themselves or Roman Catholics in general, and by the latter, the English or Protestants in general.

A short time before I left the Rio de la Plata, I sent ten of the Portuguese Bibles, and twenty New Testaments, to Bahia, in charge of a person who, I think, would take care to see them safely lodged in that place. I sent them to the care of the English Chaplain there.

During the few days I stopped at Valparaiso, I met with a gentleman to whom I had formerly intrusted twelve of the Spanish New Testaments. Upon my enquiring about them, he told me they had been stolen out of his room. Though this was to be regretted, yet one good effect would arise from it, in as much as the person who stole them would no doubt take effectual care to put them in circulation.

In my letter of 26th February, I requested the Society to send me 200 of Scio’s translation to Buenos Aires, and 300 to Valparaiso. I hope these will respectively arrive in due time. I then noticed to you the advantage that would arise from lettering them on the back, and varying them in the binding. I particularly request your attention to this, as I am sure it will contribute greatly to their sale. Let the binding be in many cases elegant. They would thus be more expensive to the Society at first, but they would be considerably less in the end. It is my intention to _sell_ them in future, except when a favourable opportunity occurs of giving the word of God to a person in real poverty. This I know to be the uniform recommendation of the Society. I would beg leave to suggest to you, that no Bibles or New Testaments be sent out in future to Buenos Aires by the captains of ships. The captains, however well intentioned they may be, cannot stay to distribute them. The Testaments, in consequence, have not unfrequently come into hands who wish to get rid of them in any way. By this means they become, as it were, of too little consideration, and their _sale_ is thus also prevented, which no doubt is the most effectual way of distributing them. In Buenos Aires several persons objected to buying them, because they had formerly been got for nothing. I shall, as I have said above, most readily act as your agent in distributing the Scriptures in Buenos Aires, and in Chile. The most judicious and effectual way of doing this is through the booksellers in these places. Before leaving Buenos Aires I arranged for the continued circulation of the New Testament, and here I shall make arrangements to the same effect before I go. It is my intention to visit Peru before long; and I shall there also, and indeed wherever I may be, zealously endeavour to promote the good work in which you are engaged.

In a few years South America will have large claims on your Society, but she will pay you from her mines for all your kindness. Should the Lord spare me ten or twenty years, I have no doubt I shall see wonderful and blessed changes on this continent. It is my intention, through the grace of our Lord Jesus Christ, to spend my life (long or short as it may be) in South America; probably not in any fixed place, but residing from time to time wherever I may most effectually promote the work of the Lord, in establishing schools, in circulating the Scriptures, and in the use of such other means as circumstances may direct.

[1] Some letters towards the end will show, that this was too unfavourable a conclusion, but it was the opinion I entertained from what I had then seen of the country.

* * * * *

_Santiago de Chile, 1st Dec. 1821._

Before this reaches you, the taking of Lima by San Martin, will be known in England. I need not expatiate upon this subject to you. You must see at once how much our field is thereby extended. I may truly say, the fall of Lima is as great a blow to the kingdom of Satan here, as it is to the cause of Spain in South America. From what I have learned of San Martin, I am sure he will prove a great forwarder of our cause there, and indeed wherever he may be. The rejoicings here on account of the fall of Lima have been very great, and they still continue. The fall of that strong hold of the Spaniards, is at once the liberty of Peru, and the stability of Chile; and I may add too, the independence of South America.

We are about to form a School Society in this city, which I hope will be attended with happy results. The Director condescends to be the Patron of the Society, and his first minister is to be President. We are looking around us for the most patriotic and liberal men of the city to form a Committee. Our Society may not be able to do what a similar Society would do in England; but it may, however, do something, and may considerably forward our objects here on behalf of the inhabitants of Chile. Besides the establishing and superintending of schools throughout the state, there is another object to which the Society will greatly contribute, I mean, the printing of some elementary works for the schools, and for the children to read in their own houses. This is a part of our work, which I consider of great importance, and to which I intend to turn a considerable part of my time and attention, so soon as other matters will allow.

I believe I wrote you, before leaving Buenos Aires, that I had sent a Master to Monte Video, or that I was about to send one. He had not left Buenos Aires when I came away, as he was occupied in printing a grammar, which he had written for the use of our schools. I have lately received a letter from him, of which I shall give you an extract.—“On the 4th of this month (July) I arrived in this city with the slates and lessons you gave me for the schools here. On the following day, I presented myself to Larañaga, (the chief ecclesiastic in Monte Video,) and he introduced me to General Lecor, the Governor, to whom I gave your letter. I met with a very hearty reception from the general, as also from Larañaga, and the magistrates. On the 9th, we had assigned to us for a school-room, a large hall in the Fort. This hall will hold 200 children. The general sent the joiners and masons of the Government to prepare this school, and I am in hopes we shall be able to open it in three weeks. I am making endeavours to form a School Society here, which may take under its management the schools of this city and province. I am in great expectation of succeeding in this object, as the members of the Government are very well disposed to it.”

In the end of this month, I am thinking of crossing the Andes, to verify my long intended visit to Mendoza. The printing of our lessons is nearly finished, and I shall thus be enabled to take some with me for the supply of that place. You will see by the extracts of letters I gave from Mendoza, in my last letter to Mr. H. (Nov. 1st), that things there are very promising. I hope my expectations regarding their improvements will be more than realized. The snow still continues on the mountains, as I am informed by a gentleman just come over them. I hope it will be nearly all gone by the time I set out. It has continued, I understand, for an unusual length of time this season.

I shall leave the schools in my absence, under the care of an Englishman lately come here from London. This gentleman was engaged by the agent there of this Government, for the purpose of establishing Lancasterian schools here. Upon his arrival, it was the intention of the Government to send him to Conception. I thought, however, it would be better that he should stay here to instruct the school-masters in grammar, geography, &c., whilst they were studying the system in our school. To this proposal the Government cheerfully agreed. We have in consequence a separate class in the school, in which Mr. Eaton instructs the masters, and two or three more who choose to attend. This arrangement will prove, I hope, highly advantageous to the education of the country at large, as those, who in future take charge of schools, will be better qualified for this important office.

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_Santiago de Chile, 30th Jan. 1822._

As I know you and your good friends of the British and Foreign School Society take a deep interest in all things here relative to education, I send you an extract from the Chile Gazette of the 19th current, by which you will see that our endeavours to form a School Society here have not been in vain.

“The surest method of promoting the happiness of any country
is to make all the people in it well informed and industrious.
An end has at length been put to the obstacles which prevented
the natives of Chile from enjoying those blessings which are
enjoyed by other nations less favoured by nature, but who have
preceded us in the cultivation of literature and the arts. It
is hence necessary now to strain every nerve to regain that
time which in idleness and darkness has been thrown away. We
begin, then, by offering an opportunity of acquiring knowledge
to all classes of the community, without respect of rank or
fortune, of sex or age.

“The Lancasterian system of mutual instruction, now introduced
in most parts of the civilized world, and to which many
places already owe an improvement in their habits, has been
established amongst us, and in such a manner as prognosticates
its beneficial effects. The propagation of this system holds
out the surest means of extirpating those principles formed
amongst us during the time of darkness. The government has
resolved zealously to protect this establishment, and, as
the best way of fulfilling its intention, has resolved to
unite with it in this object those persons who have the same
sentiments on the subject, and who, at the same time, possess
that activity, zeal, and energy, which this important matter
demands. In all places this system of instruction prospers and
extends itself under the fostering care of societies. This
circumstance at once determines me to follow the example thus
set before us, and immediately to establish a Society for this
object. Of this Society I shall be the protector and a member.
My first minister of state will be President. The Solicitor
General of the City, the Protector of the City Schools, and
the Rector of the National Institute, shall be _ex-officio_
members of the Committee of Management. The other members of
the Committee will in future be chosen by the Society; but, for
the present, I nominate to this charge:— * * * *

“The Committee will hold its meetings in the room belonging to
the Central School, on such days as shall be agreed on at the
first meeting, with no other formality than what is dictated
by good order. The Committee shall form rules for the Society,
and present them to the Government for approbation, and shall
name a Secretary, Accountant, and Treasurer, either from their
own number or otherwise. The object of this Institution is
to extend, in every direction throughout Chile, the benefits
of education; to promote the instruction of all classes, but
especially of the poor; to seize all the advantages which
this new system of education offers; and to point out those
means by which it may be best adapted to the circumstances
and necessities of the country. In short, this Institution
will be considered a good of the greatest magnitude, and whose
efficacies will, we trust, in some measure correspond to that
great extension of which it is susceptible.

(Signed)

“O’HIGGINS.”

I trust this Society, which has thus been formed, will be extremely useful in forwarding the great concerns of general education in this rising nation. There are many circumstances here very encouraging in regard to the future prospects and prosperity of Chile. It is probable our Society will communicate with you before long, by way of claiming alliance with you in the grand work of universal instruction.

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_Santiago de Chile, 9th May, 1822._

You have heard, I dare say, that I left Buenos Aires some time ago, and came to Chile. I have now been here ten months, and am much pleased with this country. In as far as respects the climate, I believe no country can be more desirable to live in than this. It rains a good deal in the winter season, that is, from June to September inclusive. Frost and snow are seldom or never seen in the plains; notwithstanding, a fire is very desirable in the winter. The highest ridge of the Andes is full in sight from this city. This is covered with snow all the year round. When it rains here below, it uniformly snows on the mountains. In the summer season, we have no rain at all, and very few cloudy days. The common course of the seasons is four months of occasional rains, and eight months of fair weather. In the summer it is pretty hot during the day; but it is always very comfortable at night. In Buenos Aires, on the contrary, the nights, during the summer, are generally very warm. In another respect also, Buenos Aires differs very remarkably from this country. There, not a mountain, nor a hill, nor a rock is to be seen; here, all those abound. The natives of Buenos Aires, who have never been from home, have no idea of what a mountain is like;[2] and of snow they are equally ignorant, having never seen the one or the other. They would also be ignorant of what a stone is, were it not that some have been brought from the other side of the river, for paving the streets. After what I have said of the scarcity of stones, you may judge of the correctness of a very modern work on South America, in which it is said, “All the houses in Buenos Aires are built of a fine white stone, found in quarries in the neighbourhood.” There is not, in Buenos Aires, a single house built of stone, nor is there any quarry on that side of the river within 100 miles of Buenos Aires. The houses there are all built of brick. The mentioning of this last, brings me back again to Chile. All the houses here, or nearly all, are built of _unburnt_ brick, such bricks as the Israelites made in Egypt; they are made of earth mixed with straw. It is said, this material for building suits the country best, on account of earthquakes, which are not unfrequent. Last night, just about this hour, (eight o’clock) we had a smart shock. I was sitting writing, when my attention was called by a rumbling noise, and a clattering of the window shutters. In a few seconds, the whole house shook, and the creaking of the beams and joists was very distinct. The noise continued for a few seconds after the shock, when all ceased. This is now the fourth earthquake we have had in less than a week. They prevail most, I am told, in this month.

We have now got our schools set on foot in this place, and I am thinking of going to Lima in the course of a month or less, in order to prosecute my objects there. According to the best information, the new state of things in that country goes on wonderfully. Many reforms are taking place of a very salutary nature. Gaming, which is carried on to a very hurtful extent in all South America, has just been prohibited in Lima, by the Government. Acts have passed for the gradual abolition of slavery. Since the taking of Lima, all the children of slaves are born free. The importation of slaves is entirely prohibited, and no infringement of the Act takes place. The same state of things subsists here and in Buenos Aires, regarding this shameful business. There is in South America generally, I believe, a great desire for the increase of knowledge. I can bear witness, that this is the case, in those parts I have been in; and I doubt not of finding it so in Lima also. I am told, that learning has prevailed there more than in places to the south of it, on this continent. There are several men there, I am informed, who stand tolerably high in literature. About three months ago, a literary society was formed in Lima. I have sent a translation of the Act incorporating the Society to Professor Jameson, of Edinburgh, and it may perhaps appear in the Edinburgh Philosophical Journal.

The fall of Lima decided, I think, the contest between Spain and her colonies, fairly establishing the independence of the latter. If any thing, however, was wanting to complete this state of things, it has now been accomplished by the late occurrences in Mexico. The immediate and solid advantages occurring from this independence, to the cause of our fellow-men in this continent, are very great. Knowledge is now tolerated in the country, and also patronized. A war of extermination has been declared against ignorance, and is actually waged. Soon after San Martin entered Lima, a provisional law was issued, until a new code should be formed for the country. In this provisional law, religious toleration is publicly acknowledged, for the first time, in South America.

A most wonderful change has taken place in Buenos Aires since I left it. War, anarchy, and confusion, have given place to a steady, firm, and enlightened government. The principal cause of this happy change is the present minister of state, Rivadavia. He arrived in Buenos Aires a short time before I left it. For some years past he has resided in London and in Paris; and the time he has spent in these places has been well employed. He has there studied and is now practising the soundest principles of political economy. If Buenos Aires goes on for a few years as it has done for some months past, it will afford excellent lessons in this interesting science to the nations of Europe, perhaps to the country of Adam Smith. A fine emulation will be carried on, and is already begun, between Buenos Aires and Lima. If an improvement is proposed in one of these places, it is deemed sufficient to silence popular and low prejudice, to publish that such a thing has already been done in the other. As to the Chilians, they are, generally speaking, less enlightened and more indifferent in respect to these subjects. Our Director is a good man, truly desirous of the progress of Chile in every thing useful. He has, however, but little activity or zeal. It is pleasing to see, under these circumstances, the good effects produced on us here, by the newspapers of Lima on the one hand, and of Buenos Aires on the other. From these many articles are copied into our public journals; and some things are already begun among us, in imitation of our friends in the north and on the east. I lately crossed and recrossed the Andes on a visit to Mendoza and San Juan. The cause of knowledge and of truth goes on there also. In each of these places there is a printing-press, and from these are likely to issue soon, many things which will contribute to the general good.

[2] The river La Plata, opposite Buenos Aires, is thirty miles wide, and at times, under a very favourable state of the atmosphere, a dim outline of the low mountains on the northern side is visible. To this extent the Buenos Aireans know what a mountain is.

* * * * *

_Lima, 11th July, 1822._

Through the unceasing goodness of God towards me, I have now arrived safely in this city. On the 18th of last month I sailed from Valparaiso, and after a pleasant passage of ten days we cast anchor in Callao Bay. Callao is an excellent harbour, the best I have yet seen. It will hold almost any number of ships riding in great safety. It is well defended from all winds except the north, but it scarcely ever blows from that quarter. In consequence of an order from the Government that no passengers should be allowed to land until they receive a licence or passport from Lima, I had to defer my coming here till the day after our arrival; I got permission, however, from the captain of the port to go on shore. After viewing Callao, I went to take a view of the place where the former Callao stood, which was destroyed by the earthquake, of which of course you have read. Its site is about half a mile from where the present town stands. The destruction seems to have been complete. Not a house is now standing; but walls of houses of considerable thickness are to be seen scattered all over the place. Some of these are lying _flat_, and others are half turned over. How weak is man, and all his works, when God arises to shake the earth!