Chapter II: Part 2

We next passed through _Falkirk_, and changed horses at _Callander Park_, Mr. Forbes’s; both he and Sir Michael Bruce having ridden with us from beyond _Stirling_. We passed Lord Zetland on the road, and shortly before reaching _Linlithgow_, where we changed horses, Lord Hopetoun met us. Unfortunately, we did not see the Palace, which, I am told, is well worth seeing. The Duke of Buccleuch met us soon after this, and, accompanied by a large number of his tenants, rode with us on horseback to _Dalkeith_. We changed horses at _Kirkliston_, and lastly at the outskirts of _Edinburgh_. There were a good many people assembled at _Edinburgh_; but we were unable to stop. We reached _Dalkeith_ at half-past five.

The journey was 65 miles, and I was very tired, and felt most happy that we had safely arrived here.

_Dalkeith, Wednesday, September 14._

This is our last day in _Scotland_; it is really a delightful country, and I am very sorry to leave it. We walked out and saw the fine greenhouse the Duke has built, all in stone, in the Renaissance style. At half-past three o’clock we went out with the Duchess of Buccleuch, only Colonel Bouverie riding with us. We drove through _Melville Park_, and through one of the little collier villages (of which there are a great many about _Dalkeith_), called _Loanhead_, to _Rosslyn_.

We got out at the chapel, which is in excellent preservation; it was built in the fifteenth century, and the architecture is exceedingly rich. It is the burying place of the family of Lord Rosslyn, who keeps it in repair. Twenty Barons of Rosslyn are buried there in armour. A great crowd had collected about the chapel when we came out of it.

From _Rosslyn_ we then drove to _Hawthornden_, which is also beautifully situated at a great height above the river. To our great surprise we found an immense crowd of people there, who must have run over from _Rosslyn_ to meet us.

We got out, and went down into some of the very curious caves in the solid rock, where Sir Alexander Ramsay and his brave followers concealed themselves, and held out for so long a time. The Duchess told us there were many of these caves all along the river to _Rosslyn_.

We came home through _Bonnyrigg_, another collier village, and through _Dalkeith_.

_Thursday, September 15._

We breakfasted at half-past seven o’clock, and at eight we set off, with the Duchess of Buccleuch, Lord Liverpool, and Lord Hardwicke following. The ladies and equerries had embarked earlier. The day was very bright and fine. The arrangements in _Edinburgh_, through which we had to pass, were extremely well managed, and excellent order was kept. We got out of the carriage on the pier, and went at once on board the “Trident,” a large steamboat belonging to the General Steam Navigation Company. The Duke and Duchess of Buccleuch, Lady J. Scott, the Emlyns, Lord Cawdor, and Lady M. Campbell, came on board with us, and we then took leave of them. We both thanked the Duke and Duchess for their extreme kindness, attention, and hospitality to us, which really were very great--indeed we had felt ourselves quite at home at _Dalkeith_.

As the fair shores of _Scotland_ receded more and more from our view, we felt quite sad that this very pleasant and interesting tour was over; but we shall never forget it.

On board the “Trident” (where the accommodation for us was much larger and better than on board the “Royal George,” and which was beautifully fitted up,) were Admiral Sir E. Brace, a pleasant old man, Commander Bullock, and three other officers. The “Rhadamanthus,” with some servants and carriages, set off last night, as well as the “Shearwater,” with Lord Liverpool and Lord Hardwicke on board.

The “Salamander” (with Mr. and Mrs. Anson on board), the “Fearless,” and the “Royal George” yacht set off at the same time with us, but the wind being against us, we soon lost sight of the yacht, and, not very long after, of all our steamers, except the “Monarch,” which belongs to the General Steam Navigation Company, and had some of our horses on board. It started nearly at the same time, and was the only one which could keep up with us. We passed _Tantallon Castle_, a grand old ruin on the coast, and quite close to the _Bass Rock_, which is very fine, and nearly opposite _Tantallon_. It was entirely covered with sea-gulls and island geese, which swarm in thousands and thousands, quite whitening its sides, and hovering above and around it.

At two o’clock we passed the famed _St. Abb’s Head_, which we had so longed to see on our first voyage to _Scotland_. I read a few stanzas out of _Marmion_, giving an account of the voyage of the nuns to _Holy Island_, and saw the ruins of the convent on it; then _Bamborough Castle_, and a little further on the _Ferne Islands_. We were very sorry to hear that poor Grace Darling had died the night before we passed the first time.

_Friday, September 16._

We heard that we had passed _Flamborough Head_ at half-past five in the morning. The “Black Eagle” we passed at half-past eight last night, and we could only just see her smoke by the time we came on deck. At half-past nine I followed Albert on deck; it was a fine, bright morning. We had some coffee, and walked about; we were then quite in the open sea; it was very fine all day. At five we were close to the “Rhadamanthus,” which had been in sight all day. We had a very pleasant little dinner on deck, in a small tent made of flags, at half-past five. We passed _Yarmouth_ at about a quarter to six--very flat--and looking, Albert said, like a Flemish town. We walked up and down on deck, admiring the splendid moonlight, which was reflected so beautifully on the sea.

We went below at half-past seven, and I read the fourth and fifth cantos of _The Lay of the Last Minstrel_ to Albert, and then we played on the piano.

_Saturday, September 17._

At three o’clock in the morning we were awakened by loud guns, which, however, were welcome sounds to us, as we knew that we were at the _Nore_, the entrance of the river. About six we heard the “Rhadamanthus” had just passed us, and they said we were lying off _Southend_, in order to let the “Black Eagle” come up. It was a very bright day, though a little hazy.

The shipping in the river looked very pretty as we passed along. At ten minutes past ten we got into the barge and landed. The Duchess of Norfolk and Miss Matilda Paget and the equerries were all there, but the others we knew nothing of. Sir James Clark had been on board the “Trident” with us. We drove off at once to the railway terminus, and reached _Windsor Castle_ at half-past twelve o’clock.

VISIT TO BLAIR ATHOLE.

_Monday, September 9, 1844._

We got up at a quarter to six o’clock. We breakfasted. Mama came to take leave of us; Alice and the baby[10] were brought in, poor little things, to wish us “good-by.” Then good Bertie[11] came down to see us, and Vicky[12] appeared as “voyageuse,” and was all impatience to go. At seven we set off with her for the railroad, Viscountess Canning and Lady Caroline Cocks[13] in our carriage. A very wet morning. We got into the carriage again at _Paddington_, and proceeded to _Woolwich_, which we reached at nine. Vicky was safely put into the boat, and then carefully carried on deck of the yacht by Renwick,[14] the sergeant-footman, whom we took with us in the boat on purpose. Lord Liverpool, Lord Aberdeen, and Sir James Clark met us on board. Sir Robert Peel was to have gone with us, but could not, in consequence of his little girl being very ill.

[10] Prince Alfred, then only five weeks old.

[11] Name by which the Prince of Wales is always called in his family.

[12] Victoria, Princess Royal.

[13] Now Lady C. Courtenay.

[14] Now pensioned: promoted to Gentleman Porter in 1854. A very good servant; and a native of Galashiels.

_Blair Athole, Wednesday, September 11._

At six o’clock we inquired and heard that we were in the port of _Dundee_. Albert saw our other gentlemen, who had had a very bad passage. Tuesday night they had a dreadful storm. _Dundee_ is a very large place, and the port is large and open; the situation of the town is very fine, but the town itself is not so. The Provost and people had come on board, and wanted us to land later, but we got this satisfactorily arranged. At half-past eight we got into our barge with Vicky, and our ladies and gentlemen. The sea was bright and blue; the boat danced along beautifully. We had about a quarter of a mile to row.

A staircase, covered with red cloth, was arranged for us to land upon, and there were a great many people; but everything was so well managed that all crowding was avoided, and only the Magistrates were below the platform where the people were. Albert walked up the steps with me, I holding his arm and Vicky his hand, amidst the loud cheers of the people, all the way to the carriage, our dear Vicky behaving like a grown-up person--not put out, nor frightened, nor nervous. We got into our postchaise, and at the same time Renwick took Vicky up in his arms, and put her in the next carriage with her governess and nurse.

There was a great crowd in _Dundee_, but everything was very well managed, and there would have been no crowding at all, had not, as usual, about twenty people begun to run along with the carriage, and thus forced a number of others to follow. About three miles beyond _Dundee_ we stopped at the gate of Lord Camperdown’s place: here a triumphal arch had been erected, and Lady Camperdown and Lady Duncan and her little boy, with others, were all waiting to welcome us, and were very civil and kind. The little boy, beautifully dressed in the Highland dress, was carried to Vicky, and gave her a basket with fruit and flowers. I said to Albert I could hardly believe that our child was travelling with us--it put me so in mind of myself when I was the “little Princess.” Albert observed that it was always said that parents lived their lives over again in their children, which is a very pleasant feeling.

The country from here to _Cupar Angus_ is very well cultivated, and you see hills in the distance. The harvest is only now being got in, but is very good; and everything much greener than in _England_. Nothing could be quieter than our journey, and the scenery is so beautiful! It is very different from _England_: all the houses built of stone; the people so different,--sandy hair, high cheekbones; children with long shaggy hair and bare legs and feet; little boys in kilts. Near _Dunkeld_, and also as you get more into the _Highlands_, there are prettier faces. Those jackets which the girls wear are so pretty; all the men and women, as well as the children, look very healthy.

_Cupar Angus_ is a small place--a village--14 miles from _Dundee_. There you enter _Perthshire_. We crossed the river _Isla_, which made me think of my poor little dog “Isla.” For about five or six miles we went along a very pretty but rough cross-road, with the _Grampians_ in the distance. We saw _Birnam Wood_ and Sir W. Stewart’s place in that fine valley on the opposite side of the river. All along such splendid scenery, and Albert enjoyed it so much--rejoicing in the beauties of nature, the sight of mountains, and the pure air.

The peeps of _Dunkeld_, with the river _Tay_ deep in the bottom, and the view of the bridge and cathedral, surrounded by the high wooded hills, as you approached it, were lovely in the extreme. We got out at an inn (which was small, but very clean) at _Dunkeld_, and stopped to let Vicky have some broth. Such a charming view from the window! Vicky stood and bowed to the people out of the window. There never was such a good traveller as she is, sleeping in the carriage at her usual times, not put out, not frightened at noise or crowds; but pleased and amused. She never heard the anchor go at night on board ship; but slept as sound as a top.

Shortly after leaving _Dunkeld_, which is 20 miles from _Blair_, and 15 from _Cupar Angus_, we met Lord Glenlyon in a carriage; he jumped out and rode with us the whole way to _Blair_,--and a most beautiful road it is. Six miles on, in the woods to the left, we could see _Kinnaird House_, where the late Lady Glenlyon (Lord Glenlyon’s mother, who died about two or three months ago) used to live. Then we passed the point of _Logierait_, where there are the remains of an ancient castle,--the old Regality Court of the Dukes of Athole. At _Moulinearn_ we tasted some of the “_Athole_ brose,” which was brought to the carriage.

We passed _Pitlochrie_, a small village, _Faskally_, a very pretty place of Mr. Butter’s, to the left, and then came to the _Pass of Killiecrankie_, which is quite magnificent; the road winds along it, and you look down a great height, all wooded on both sides; the _Garry_ rolling below it. I cannot describe how beautiful it is. Albert was in perfect ecstasies. _Lude_, Mr. Mc Inroy’s, to the right, is very pretty. _Blair Athole_ is only four or five miles from the _Killiecrankie Pass_. Lord Glenlyon has had a new approach made. The house is a large plain white building, surrounded by high hills, which one can see from the windows. Lord and Lady Glenlyon, with their little boy, received us at the door, and showed us to our rooms, and then left us.

_Blair Castle, Blair Athole,
Thursday, September 12._

We took a delightful walk of two hours. Immediately near the house the scenery is very wild, which is most enjoyable. The moment you step out of the house you see those splendid hills all round. We went to the left through some neglected pleasure-grounds, and then through the wood, along a steep winding path overhanging the rapid stream. These Scotch streams, full of stones, and clear as glass, are most beautiful; the peeps between the trees, the depth of the shadows, the mossy stones, mixed with slate, &c., which cover the banks, are lovely; at every turn you have a picture. We were up high, but could not get to the top; Albert in such delight; it is a happiness to see him, he is in such spirits. We came back by a higher drive, and then went to the Factor’s house, still higher up, where Lord and Lady Glenlyon are living, having given _Blair_ up to us. We walked on, to a cornfield where a number of women were cutting and reaping the oats (“shearing” as they call it in _Scotland_), with a splendid view of the hills before us, so rural and romantic, so unlike our daily _Windsor_ walk (delightful as that is); and this change does such good: as Albert observes, it refreshes one for a long time. We then went into the kitchen-garden, and to a walk from which there is a magnificent view. This mixture of great wildness and art is perfection.

At a little before four o’clock Albert drove me out in the pony phaeton till nearly six--such a drive! Really to be able to sit in one’s pony carriage, and to see such wild, beautiful scenery as we did, the farthest point being only five miles from the house, is an immense delight. We drove along _Glen Tilt_, through a wood overhanging the river _Tilt_, which joins the _Garry_, and as we left the wood we came upon such a lovely view--_Ben-y-Ghlo_ straight before us--and under these high hills the river _Tilt_ gushing and winding over stones and slates, and the hills and mountains skirted at the bottom with beautiful trees; the whole lit up by the sun; and the air so pure and fine; but no description can at all do it justice, or give an idea of what this drive was.

Oh! what can equal the beauties of nature! What enjoyment there is in them! Albert enjoys it so much; he is in ecstasies here. He has inherited this love for nature from his dear father.

We went as far as the _Marble Lodge_, a keeper’s cottage, and came back the same way.

_Monday, September 16._

After our luncheon at half-past three, Albert drove me (Lord Glenlyon riding with us) to the _Falls of the Bruar_. We got out at the road, and walked to the upper falls, and down again by the path on the opposite side. It is a walk of three miles round, and a very steep ascent; at every turn the view of the rushing falls is extremely fine, and looking back on the hills, which were so clear and so beautifully lit up, with the rapid stream below, was most exquisite. We threw stones down to see the effect in the water. The trees which surround the falls were planted by the late Duke of Athole in compliance with Burns’s “_Petition_.”[15]

[15] _The Humble Petition of Bruar Water to the Noble Duke of Athole._

The evening was beautiful, and we feasted our eyes on the ever-changing, splendid views of the hills and vales as we drove back. Albert said that the chief beauty of mountain scenery consisted in its frequent changes. We came home at six o’clock.

_Tuesday, September 17._

At a quarter to four o’clock we drove out, Albert driving me, and the ladies and Lord Glenlyon following in another carriage. We drove to the _Pass of Killiecrankie_, which looked in its greatest beauty and splendour, and appeared quite closed, so that one could not imagine how one was to get out of it. We drove over a bridge to the right, where the view of the pass both ways, with the _Garry_ below, is beautiful. We got out a little way beyond this and walked on a mile to the _Falls of the Tummel_, the stream of which is famous for salmon; these falls, however, are not so fine, or nearly so high, as those of the _Bruar_. We got home at half-past six; the day was fast fading, and the lights were lovely.

We watched two stags fighting just under our window; they are in an enclosure, and roar incessantly.

_Wednesday, September 18._

At nine o’clock we set off on ponies, to go up one of the hills, Albert riding the dun pony and I the grey, attended only by Lord Glenlyon’s excellent servant, Sandy McAra, in his Highland dress. We went out by the back way across the road, and to the left through the ford, Sandy leading my pony and Albert following closely, the water reaching up above Sandy’s knees. We then went up the hill of _Tulloch_, first straight up a very steep cabbage-field, and then in a zigzag manner round, till we got up to the top; the ponies scrambling up over stones and everything, and never making a false step; and the view all round being splendid and most beautifully lit up. We went up to the very highest top, which cannot be seen from the house or from below; and from here the view is like a panorama: you see the _Falls of the Bruar_, _Ben-y-Chat_, _Ben Vrackie_, _Ben-y-Ghlo_, the _Killiecrankie Pass_, and a whole range of distant hills on the other side, which one cannot at all see from below. In the direction of _Taymouth_ you also see _Dalnacardoch_, the first stage from _Blair_. _Blair_ itself and the houses in the village looked like little toys from the great height we were on. It was quite romantic. Here we were with only this Highlander behind us holding the ponies (for we got off twice and walked about)--not a house, not a creature near us, but the pretty Highland sheep, with their horns and black faces,--up at the top of _Tulloch_, surrounded by beautiful mountains.

We came back the same way that we went, and stopped at the ford to let the ponies drink before we rode through. We walked from inside the gate, and came home at half-past eleven,--the most delightful, most romantic ride and walk I ever had. I had never been up such a mountain, and then the day was so fine. The hill of _Tulloch_ is covered with grass, and is so delightfully soft to walk upon.

_Thursday, September 19._

Albert set off, immediately after luncheon, deer-stalking, and I was to follow and wait below in order to see the deer driven down. At four o’clock I set off with Lady Glenlyon and Lady Canning, Mr. Oswald and Lord Charles Wellesley riding, by the lower _Glen Tilt_ drive. We stopped at the end; but were still in the wood; Sandy was looking out and watching. After waiting we were allowed to come out of the carriage, and came upon the road, where we saw some deer on the brow of the hill. We sat down on the ground, Lady Canning and I sketching, and Sandy and Mr. Oswald, both in Highland costume, (the same that they all wear here, viz. a grey cloth jacket and waistcoat, with a kilt and a Highland bonnet,) lying on the grass and looking through glasses. After waiting again some time, we were told in a mysterious whisper that “they were coming,” and indeed a great herd _did_ appear on the brow of the hill, and came running down a good way, when most provokingly two men who were walking on the road--which they had no business to have done--suddenly came in sight, and then the herd all ran back again and the sport was spoilt. After waiting some little while we observed Albert, Lord Glenlyon, and the keepers on the brow of the hill, and we got into the carriage, drove a little way, went over the bridge, where there is a shepherd’s “shiel,” and got out and waited for them to join us, which they did almost immediately,--looking very picturesque with their rifles. My poor Albert had not even fired one shot for fear of spoiling the whole thing, but had been running about a good deal. The group of keepers and dogs was very pretty. After talking and waiting a little while, we walked some way on, and then Albert drove home with us.

_Saturday, September 21._

After breakfast Albert saw Lord Glenlyon, who proposed that he should go deer-stalking and that I should follow him. At twenty minutes to eleven we drove off with Lady Canning for _Glen Tilt_. The day was glorious and it would have been a pity to lose it, but it was a long hard day’s work, though extremely delightful and enjoyable, and unlike anything I had ever done before. I should have enjoyed it still more had I been able to be with Albert the whole time.

We drove nearly to Peter Fraser’s house, which is between the _Marble Lodge_ and _Forest Lodge_. Here Albert and I walked about a little, and then Lady Canning and we mounted our ponies and set off on our journey, Lord Glenlyon leading my pony the whole way, Peter Fraser, the head-keeper (a wonderfully active man) leading the way; Sandy and six other Highlanders carrying rifles and leading dogs, and the rear brought up by two ponies with our luncheon-box. Lawley,[16] Albert’s Jäger, was also there, carrying one of Albert’s rifles; the other Albert slung over his right shoulder, to relieve Lawley. So we set off and wound round and round the hill, which had the most picturesque effect imaginable. Such a splendid view all round, finer and more extensive the higher we went! The day was delightful; but the sun very hot. We saw the highest point of _Ben-y-Ghlo_, which one cannot see from below, and the distant range of hills we had seen from _Tulloch_ was beautifully softened by the slightest haze. We saw _Loch Vach_. The road was very good, and as we ascended we had to speak in a whisper, as indeed we did almost all day, for fear of coming upon deer unawares. The wind was, however, right, which is everything here for the deer. I wish we could have had Landseer with us to sketch our party, with the background, it was so pretty, as were also the various “halts,” &c. If I only had had time to sketch them!

[16] A very good man. His health obliged him to give up being a Jäger in 1848; he was then appointed a Page, in which position he continued till he died, in November, 1865.

We stopped at the top of the _Ghrianan_, whence you look down an immense height. It is here that the eagles sometimes sit. Albert got off and looked about in great admiration, and walked on a little, and then remounted his pony. We then went nearly to the top of _Cairn Chlamain_, and here we separated, Albert going off with Peter, Lawley, and two other keepers, to get a “quiet shot” as they call it; and Lady Canning, Lord Glenlyon, and I went up quite to the top, which is deep in moss.

Here we sat down and stayed some time sketching the ponies below; Lord Glenlyon and Sandy remaining near us. The view was quite beautiful, nothing but mountains all around us, and the solitude, the complete solitude, very impressive. We saw the range of _Mar Forest_, and the inner range to the left, receding from us, as we sat facing the hill, called _Scarsach_, where the counties of _Perth_, _Aberdeen_, and _Inverness_ join. My pony was brought up for me, and we then descended this highest pinnacle, and proceeded on a level to meet Albert, whom I descried coming towards us. We met him shortly after; he had had bad luck, I am sorry to say. We then sat down on the grass and had some luncheon; then I walked a little with Albert and we got on our ponies. As we went on towards home some deer were seen in _Glen Chroine_, which is called the “Sanctum;” where it is supposed that there are a great many. Albert went off soon after this, and we remained on _Sron a Chro_, for an hour, I am sure, as Lord Glenlyon said by so doing we should turn the deer to Albert, whereas if we went on we should disturb and spoil the whole thing. So we submitted. Albert looked like a little speck creeping about on an opposite hill. We saw four herds of deer, two of them close to us. It was a beautiful sight.

Meanwhile I saw the sun sinking gradually, and I got quite alarmed lest we should be benighted, and we called anxiously for Sandy, who had gone away for a moment, to give a signal to come back. We then began our descent, “squinting” the hill, the ponies going as safely and securely as possible. As the sun went down the scenery became more and more beautiful, the sky crimson, golden-red and blue, and the hills looking purple and lilac, most exquisite, till at length it set, and the hues grew softer in the sky and the outlines of the hills sharper. I never saw anything so fine. It soon, however, grew very dark.

At length Albert met us, and he told me he had waited all the time for us, as he knew how anxious I should be. He had been very unlucky, and had lost his sport, for the rifle would not go off just when he could have shot some fine harts; yet he was as merry and cheerful as if nothing had happened to disappoint him. We got down quite safely to the bridge; our ponies going most surely, though it was quite dusk when we were at the bottom of the hill. We walked to the _Marble Lodge_, and then got into the pony carriage and drove home by very bright moonlight, which made everything look very lovely; but the road made one a little nervous.

We saw a flight of ptarmigan, with their white wings, on the top of _Sron a Chro_, also plovers, grouse, and pheasants. We were safely home by a quarter to eight.

_Tuesday, October 1._

At a quarter-past eight o’clock we started, and were very very sorry to leave _Blair_ and the dear _Highlands_! Every little trifle and every spot I had become attached to; our life of quiet and liberty, everything was so pleasant, and all the Highlanders and people who went with us I had got to like so much. Oh! the dear hills, it made me very sad to leave them behind!

Lord Glenlyon rode with us, and we went back exactly the same road we came; through _Killiecrankie_, _Pitlochrie_, saw _Logierait_, &c. The battle of _Killiecrankie_ was fought in a field to your left, as you come from _Blair_ and before you come to the pass; and Lord Dundee was shot in a garden immediately above the field at _Urrard_ (formerly called _Rinrory_) which belongs to Mr. Stewart of _Urrard_; the Stewarts of _Urrard_ used formerly to live on _Craig Urrard_. We reached _Dunkeld_ at half-past eleven. Mr. Oswald and Mr. Patrick Small Keir, with a detachment of Highlanders, were there. We drove up to the door of the cottage at _Dunkeld_ and got out there. It is beautifully situated and the cottage is very pretty, with a good view of the river from the windows. _Craig-y-Barns_ is a fine rocky hill to the left as you drive from _Blair_.

We walked to look at the beginning of the new house which the late Duke of Athole commenced, but which has been left unfinished, and also at a beautiful larch-tree, the first that was brought to _Scotland_. I rode back on “Arghait Bhean”[17] for the last time, and took a sad leave of him and of faithful Sandy McAra. We walked into the ruins of the old cathedral and into that part which the late Duke fitted up for service, and where there is a fine monument of him. I should never have recognized the grounds of _Dunkeld_, so different did they look without the encampment.[18] Beautiful as _Dunkeld_ is, it does not approach the beauty and wildness of _Blair_.

[17] This pony was given to me by the Duke of Athole in 1847, and is now alive at Osborne.

[18] _Vide_ page 14.

After twelve o’clock we set off again, and to our astonishment Lord Glenlyon insisted upon riding on with us to _Dundee_, which is 50 miles from _Blair_! Captain J. Murray also rode with us from _Dunkeld_. It made me feel sad to see the country becoming flatter and flatter. There was a great crowd at _Cupar Angus_, and at _Dundee_ a still larger one, and on the pier the crush was very great.

We took leave of Lord Glenlyon with real regret, and he seemed quite unhappy at our going. No one could be more zealous or kinder than he was.

There was a fearful swell when we went in the barge to the yacht.

_Thursday, October 3._

The English coast appeared terribly flat. Lord Aberdeen was quite touched when I told him I was so attached to the dear, dear _Highlands_ and missed the fine hills so much. There is a great peculiarity about the _Highlands_ and Highlanders; and they are such a chivalrous, fine, active people. Our stay among them was so delightful. Independently of the beautiful scenery, there was a quiet, a retirement, a wildness, a liberty, and a solitude that had such a charm for us.

The day had cleared up and was bright, but the air very heavy and thick, quite different from the mountain air, which was so pure, light, and brisk. At two o’clock we reached _Woolwich_, and shortly after disembarked. We proceeded straight to the railroad, and arrived at _Windsor Castle_ at a few minutes past four.

TOUR ROUND THE WEST COAST OF SCOTLAND, AND VISIT TO ARDVERIKIE.

_Wednesday, August 11, 1847._

We proceeded from the _Osborne Pier_ on board the yacht. Our two eldest children, my brother Charles, the Duke and Duchess of Norfolk, Lord Grey (Secretary of State), Lady Jocelyn, General Wemyss, Sir James Clark, and Miss Hildyard, accompanied us.

We have with us the following steamers:--The “Black Eagle,” “Garland,” “Undine,” “Fairy,” and “Scourge” (war-steamers). The two equerries are on board the “Black Eagle.”

We were soon under weigh, and as _Osborne_ vanished from our sight, I thought of our poor children left behind.

_On Board the Victoria and Albert,
in Dartmouth Harbour,
Thursday, August 12._

I have not much to relate. Our voyage has not been what we intended, _mais l’homme propose et Dieu dispose_; for instead of being at _Falmouth_ we are only at _Dartmouth_! We started at five o’clock, and soon after felt the vessel stop, and on inquiring, heard that the fog was so thick it was impossible to proceed. At last Captain Smithett was sent out in the “Garland” to report on the state of the weather; and he soon returned, saying that all was clear enough to proceed outside _The Needles_ (we were in _Alum Bay_). So we started again, and, after breakfast, we came on deck, where I remained working and talking; feeling quite well; but towards one o’clock the ground swell had increased, and we decided to run into the harbour we now are in.

_On Board the Victoria and Albert,
Milford Haven, South Wales,
Saturday, August 14._

Arrived here this afternoon at five. I will give an account of what has passed since leaving _Dartmouth_. Thursday evening, after dining with Charles, we went on deck, and found the whole town illuminated, and the effect of its curious high houses running down quite into the still sea, which reflected the illumination, was lovely,--the night being so fine and calm.

_Friday, August 13._

We started at four and reached the _Scilly Islands_ at three in the afternoon; it had been very rough. The numerous little rocky islands, in the midst of which we are lying, are very curious.

_St. Mary’s_, the principal island, has a little town, a church, and a small harbour. Exactly opposite, on the isle of _Tresco_, is Mr. Smith’s house; he has the lease of all the islands from the Duchy of Cornwall. Farther to the left is _St. Agnes_, with a lighthouse and innumerable rocks.

Albert (who, as well as Charles, has not been unwell, while I suffered very much) went with Charles and Bertie to see one of the islands. The children recover from their sea-sickness directly. When Albert and the others returned, soon after five, we went with our ladies and gentlemen in the barge across the harbour,--where, blue as the sea was, it was still rather rough,--and landed at a little pier at _St. Mary’s_. The harbour, surmounted by the old fort of the _Star Castle_, reminded me of the harbour of _St. Heliers_. We got into a pony carriage belonging to Mr. Smith, with Charles and Lady Jocelyn, and drove through the place, which looks like a small fishing town, and then round the fortifications of the castle, where there is a very pretty walk overhanging the sea; the rock being covered with fern, and heath, and furze. The extensive view of the islands and rocks around is very beautiful. The town is built upon a very narrow strip of land, with a small bay on either side. We got out at the old castle, which bears the date of one of the Edwards. The view from the battlements is very fine. We returned the same way we went, a little before seven.

_Saturday, August 14._

We started at five o’clock, and the yacht then began to roll and pitch dreadfully, and I felt again very unwell; but I came on deck at three in the afternoon, the sea then was like glass, and we were close to the Welsh coast.

This harbour, _Milford Haven_, is magnificent; the largest we have; a fleet might lie here. We are anchored just off _Milford_. _Pembroke_ in front, in the distance. The cliffs, which are reddish brown, are not very high. Albert and Charles went in the “Fairy” to _Pembroke_, and I sketched. Numbers of boats came out, with Welshwomen in their curious high-crowned men’s hats; and Bertie was much cheered, for the people seemed greatly pleased to see the “Prince of Wales.” Albert returned at a quarter to eight.

A very pretty dairymaid, in complete Welsh costume, was brought on board for me to see. We found _Milford_ illuminated when we went on deck, and bonfires burning everywhere.

_Sunday, August 15._

We started again at four o’clock, but this time had a beautiful day, with the sea smooth the whole way. About eleven we saw the mountainous coast of _Caernarvonshire_; the hills, which are in fact high mountains, are bold and finely shaped, and, Albert said, reminded him much of _Ischia_, with the beautiful deep blue sea and bright sky.

Having arrived at the entrance of the _Menai Straits_, we all left the “Victoria and Albert,” and went on board the “Fairy.” The “Victoria and Albert” with the “Black Eagle” (the two equerries having joined us), the “Undine” and “Scourge,” proceeded round the _Isle of Anglesea_ by _Holyhead_, and, in the “Fairy,” accompanied by the “Garland,” we went into the _Straits_. As we entered, the view of the fine mountains with their rich verdure--_Snowdon_ rising splendidly in the midst--and of the fields and woods below, was really glorious. To the left the country is extremely flat. Then _Caernarvon_ came in sight, with its grand old Castle so finely situated. We stopped for a few moments off here, but did not land. The mountains disappeared for a while, and then re-appeared more beautiful than ever. We passed close to _Plas Newydd_, where we had spent six weeks fifteen years ago. I felt as if I remembered it all very well; but admired the scenery even more than I had expected from my previous recollection.

We passed the famous _Swilly Rocks_, and saw the works they are making for the tube for the railroad, and then went under the _Menai Bridge_ and stopped immediately on the other side. There were crowds of loyal people in steamers and boats, playing “God save the Queen,” and cheering tremendously. Albert and Charles landed and walked over the bridge. When they returned we went on again, and stopped in a most beautiful spot, with almost Swiss scenery, opposite _Penrhyn Castle_, Colonel Douglas Pennant’s (which I saw in the late possessor’s time unfinished), and near _Bangor_, with its wooded banks, through which one can see the high-road to _Beaumaris_. The purple hills, with the verdure below, and the blue sea, were extremely picturesque.

Albert and Charles went to see _Penrhyn_. As soon as they returned we dined below in the “Fairy,” and at eight we returned, with the children and all our people, to the “Victoria and Albert.” The evening was beautiful and the day very successful.

_Monday, August 16._

We woke soon after four o’clock, when getting under weigh, and were surprised to feel the yacht stop not an hour after. Something had gone wrong with the paddle-wheel--just as happened last year--and it took full two hours to set it right. Then at seven we started afresh. A beautiful morning with a very smooth sea. By half-past ten we were in sight of the _Isle of Man_, which is a fine island with bold hills and cliffs. A little before twelve we reached the point of the bay, on which is the town of _Douglas_, very prettily situated, with a picturesque castle near the lighthouse, on the extreme point of the bay. We stopped off here for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour,--the rocks were covered with people. From _Douglas_ to _Ramsay Bay_ the hills and cliffs are high and bold; though _Ramsay_ itself is low.

For about two hours we were out of sight of land, and I was below writing. When I came on deck at three o’clock the Scotch coast was quite close; the _Mull of Galloway_, and then _Wigtownshire_. Albert declared he saw the Irish coast, but I could not descry it. At five we came in sight of _Loch Ryan_, and saw, to the left, _Ailsa Craig_ rising more than 1,000 feet perpendicularly from the sea. _Loch Ryan_ is very fine, and the hills and glens are lovely, particularly little _Glen Finnart_. The loch is very large, and the hills here are very high and wooded. The little town is called _Stranraer_.

_Tuesday, August 17._

At six o’clock we began to move. A beautiful morning. At about eight we were close to the _Ailsa Rock_ or _Craig_, the formation of which is very curious. There were thousands and thousands of birds,--gannets,--on the rock, and we fired a gun off three times in order to bring them in reach of a shot--Albert and Charles tried, but in vain. We next came in sight of the beautiful _Isle of Arran_. The finest point is when you are before the _Holy Island_, and in sight of the _Goatfell_ range of mountains. The highest is about 2,800 feet; they are peculiarly fine from their bold pointed outlines. Before them is _Lamlash_. After passing _Holy Island_ we came to _Brodick Bay_, which is beautiful, with high hills and a glen; in front of which, and surrounded by wood, is the castle which Lord Douglas is building. Not long after this we came in sight of the _Isle of Bute_, and entered the _Clyde_, the view of which from Mr. Stuart’s and Lord Bute’s property is beautiful: high wooded banks, the river opening out and widening, surrounded by the distant mountains. A small place to the right called _Largs_ is very prettily situated.

At half-past twelve we reached _Greenock_, the port of _Glasgow_. The shore and the ships were crowded with people, there being no less (as I since learnt) than thirty-nine steamers, over-filled with people, which almost all followed us! Such a thing never was seen. Add to these steamers boats and ships of all descriptions, moving in all directions; but not getting out of the way! We, however, got safe on board the “Fairy,” and steamed up the _Clyde_; it was hazy, and we could not see the distance well. We passed the small town of _Port Glasgow_, and about one o’clock were at _Dumbarton Castle_. Its situation is very fine, the rock rising straight out of the river, the mountains all round, and the town of _Dumbarton_ behind it, making it very picturesque. We landed just below the Castle, and went with Charles and the children in a carriage to the fort. There was a great crowd, but excellent order kept. We went to the battery, but had to mount many steps to get to it. Wallace was confined here; and it was one of the last castles which held out for Mary Queen of Scots. From the battery there is a very extensive view of the _Clyde_ and _Dumbarton_, and we ought to have been able to see _Ben Lomond_; but it was in mist.

We got back to the “Fairy” by half-past two, and returned to _Greenock_, escorted by nineteen steamers. Steamed past _Greenock_, and went on towards _Loch Long_, passing _Roseneath_ to the right, where the present Duke and Duchess of Argyll live. _Loch Long_ is indeed splendid, 15 miles in length, surrounded by grand hills, with such beautiful outlines, and very green--all so different from the eastern part of _Scotland_--the loch winding along most beautifully, so as to seem closed at times. Charles said it reminded him of _Switzerland_ and the _Tyrol_. The finest point of _Loch Long_ is looking towards _Loch Goil_. We had a very good sight of the mountain called _The Cobbler_; the top of which resembles a man sitting and mending his shoe! At the end of the loch we got a glimpse of _Ben Lomond_, and were, in fact, very near _Loch Lomond_.

We returned as we came. There was no sun, and once or twice a little mist; but still it was beautiful. We went on to _Rothsay_, which we reached at eight o’clock, and immediately went on board the “Victoria and Albert,” greatly tired but much amused and interested.

The children enjoy everything extremely, and bear the novelty and excitement wonderfully. The people cheered the “Duke of Rothsay”[19] very much, and also called for a cheer for the “Princess of Great Britain.” Everywhere the good Highlanders are very enthusiastic. _Rothsay_ is a pretty little town, built round a fine bay, with hills in the distance, and a fine harbour. When we went on deck after dinner, we found the whole town brilliantly illuminated, with every window lit up, which had a very pretty effect.

[19] A title belonging to the eldest son of the Sovereign of Scotland, and therefore held by the Prince of Wales as eldest son of the Queen, the representative of the ancient Kings of Scotland.

_Wednesday, August 18._

A bright fresh morning, the hills slightly tipped with clouds. At eight o’clock we all went on board the “Fairy,” and went up the _Kyles of Bute_, which, as you advance, become very fine, the hills lying so curiously one behind the other, sometimes apparently closing up all outlet.

We saw _Arran_ to the left, looking very grand in the distance. We have been turning about a good deal since yesterday, for we went by _Arran_ and _Holy Island_, and then left _Little_ and _Great Cumbray_ to our left, and went up to _Dumbarton_ and back, and on to _Loch Long_, and then to _Rothsay_, leaving _Arran_ to our left; then, after passing _Arran_, we entered _Loch Fyne_. I, however, had a headache, and was obliged to lie down below, and only came on deck again when we were within an hour of _Inverary_; where the lake widens, and the hills on either side are very green and undulating, but not very high.

The approach to _Inverary_ is splendid; the loch is very wide; straight before you a fine range of mountains splendidly lit up,--green, pink, and lilac; to the left the little town of _Inverary_; and above it, surrounded by pine woods, stands the Castle of _Inverary_, square, with turrets at the corners.

Our reception was in the true Highland fashion. The Duke and Duchess of Argyll (dear Lady Elizabeth Leveson Gower), the Duchess of Sutherland, Lord Stafford, Lady Caroline Leveson Gower, and the Blantyres received us at the landing-place, which was all ornamented with heather. The Celtic Society, including Campbell of Islay, his two sons (one grown up and the other a very pretty little boy), with a number of his men, and several other Campbells, were all drawn up near to the carriage. We got into a carriage with the two Duchesses, Charles and the Duke being on the box (we had left the children on board the “Fairy”), and took a beautiful drive amongst magnificent trees, and along a glen where we saw _Ben Sheerar_, &c. The weather was particularly fine, and we were much struck by the extreme beauty of _Inverary_--presenting as it does such a combination of magnificent timber, with high mountains, and a noble lake.

The pipers walked before the carriage, and the Highlanders on either side, as we approached the house. Outside stood the Marquis of Lorn, just two years old, a dear, white, fat, fair little fellow with reddish hair, but very delicate features, like both his father and mother: he is such a merry, independent little child. He had a black velvet dress and jacket, with a “sporran,” scarf, and Highland bonnet. We lunched at two with our hosts; the Highland gentlemen standing with halberds in the room. We sent for our children, who arrived during luncheon time. We left _Inverary_ before three, and took the children with us in the carriage. The Argylls, the Duchess of Sutherland, and the others, accompanied us on board the “Fairy,” where we took leave of them.

The light on the hills was beautiful as we steamed down _Loch Fyne_. At five we reached _Lochgilp_, and all landed at _Lochgilphead_, a small village where there were numbers of people, and, amongst others, Sir John P. Orde, who lent his carriage and was extremely civil. We and our people drove through the little village to the _Crinan Canal_, where we entered a most magnificently decorated barge, drawn by three horses, ridden by postilions in scarlet. We glided along very smoothly, and the views of the hills--the range of _Cruachan_--were very fine indeed; but the eleven locks we had to go through--(a very curious process, first passing several by rising, and then others by going down)--were tedious, and instead of the passage lasting one hour-and-a-half, it lasted upwards of two hours and a half, therefore it was nearly eight o’clock before we reached _Loch Crinan_. We instantly went on board the “Victoria and Albert,” but it was too late to proceed to _Oban_; we had, therefore, to lengthen our voyage by a day, and spent the night at _Crinan_. It is a very fine spot, hills all round, and, in the distance, those of the island of _Jura_. The yacht had had a good passage round the _Mull of Cantire_. We dined with Charles, and went on deck; and the blaze of the numerous bonfires--the half moon, the stars, and the extreme stillness of the night--had a charming effect.

_Thursday, August 19._

A beautiful day. At nine o’clock we left _Crinan_, proceeding to the right, up splendid passes, with myriads of islands, and such enchanting views, that I cannot enumerate them. We passed first up the _Sound of Jura_, where numbers of people met us in small boats, decorated with little flags; then up the _Pass of Kerrera_ to _Oban_, one of the finest spots we have seen, with the ruins of the old _Castle of Dunolly_ and a range of high mountains in the distance. To the left, after leaving _Oban_, we saw the _Isle of Kerrera_, and to the right _Dunstaffnage Castle_, whence came the famous stone which supports the “Coronation Chair,” in which the sovereigns are crowned at _Westminster Abbey_. Alexander II. is said to be buried here. We passed close by the flat rock, called _The Lady’s Rock_, on which a McLean left his wife, hoping she would be washed away--she was saved however.

We then came into the _Sound of Mull_ by _Tobermory_, a small place prettily situated, and from thence the views continued beautiful. At one o’clock we were in sight of the _Isles of Rum_, _Eig_ and _Muck_ (rather large islands, which Lord Salisbury bought a few years ago). Next we passed the long, flat, curious islands of _Coll_ and _Tiree_. The inhabitants of these islands have, unhappily, been terrible sufferers during the last winter from famine. A little further on we saw, to our right, the _Treshinish Isles_, very curiously-shaped rocks: one is called _The Dutchman’s Cap_, and has the most strange shape, thus--

At three we anchored close before _Staffa_, and immediately got into the barge with Charles, the children, and the rest of our people, and rowed towards the cave. As we rounded the point, the wonderful basaltic formation came in sight. The appearance it presents is most extraordinary; and when we turned the corner to go into the renowned _Fingal’s Cave_, the effect was splendid, like a great entrance into a vaulted hall: it looked almost awful as we entered, and the barge heaved up and down on the swell of the sea. It is very high, but not longer than 227 feet, and narrower than I expected, being only 40 feet wide. The sea is immensely deep in the cave. The rocks, under water, were all colours--pink, blue, and green--which had a most beautiful and varied effect. It was the first time the British standard with a Queen of Great Britain, and her husband and children, had ever entered _Fingal’s Cave_, and the men gave three cheers, which sounded very impressive there. We backed out, and then went on a little further to look at the other cave, not of basaltic formation, and at the point called _The Herdsman_. The swell was beginning to get up, and perhaps an hour later we could not have gone in.

We returned to the yacht, but Albert and Charles landed again at _Staffa_. They returned in three-quarters of an hour, and we then went on to _Iona_; here Albert and Charles landed, and were absent an hour. I and the ladies sketched. We saw from the yacht the ruins of the old cathedral of _St. Oran_. When Albert and Charles returned, they said the ruins were very curious, there had been two monasteries there, and fine old crosses and tombs of ancient kings were still to be seen. I must see it some other time. On Albert’s return we went on again, and reached _Tobermory_ at nine. The place was all illuminated.

_Friday, August 20._