Chapter I: Part 1

Transcriber’s Notes.

Hyphenation has been standardised.

Footnotes were moved to the ends of the text they pertain to
and numbered in one continuous sequence.

The words ‘gillie’ and ‘ghillie’ have been left unchanged.
Both spellings appear to be acceptable.

Other changes made are noted at the end of the book.

_From a Photograph by Whitlock, Birmingham._]

LEAVES

FROM THE JOURNAL

OF

OUR LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS,

FROM 1848 TO 1861.

TO WHICH ARE PREFIXED AND ADDED EXTRACTS FROM THE SAME
JOURNAL GIVING AN ACCOUNT OF

EARLIER VISITS TO SCOTLAND,
AND TOURS IN ENGLAND AND IRELAND,
AND
YACHTING EXCURSIONS.

_EDITED BY ARTHUR HELPS._

LONDON:
SMITH, ELDER AND CO.
1868.

[THE RIGHT OF TRANSLATION IS RESERVED.]

TO

THE DEAR MEMORY OF HIM

WHO MADE THE LIFE OF THE WRITER BRIGHT AND HAPPY,

THESE SIMPLE RECORDS

ARE LOVINGLY AND GRATEFULLY INSCRIBED.

EDITOR’S PREFACE.

The circumstances which have led to the publication of this Volume are, briefly, these.

During one of the Editor’s official visits to Balmoral, her Majesty very kindly allowed him to see several extracts from her journal, relating to excursions in the Highlands of Scotland. He was much interested by them; and expressed the interest which he felt. It then occurred to her Majesty that these extracts, referring, as they did, to some of the happiest hours of her life, might be made into a book, to be printed privately, for presentation to members of the Royal Family and her Majesty’s intimate friends; especially to those who had accompanied and attended her in these tours.

It was then suggested to her Majesty by some persons, among them a near and dear relative of the Queen, and afterwards by the Editor, that this work, if made known to others, would be very interesting to them as well as to the Royal Family and to her Majesty’s intimate friends. The Queen, however, said, that she had no skill whatever in authorship; that these were, for the most part, mere homely accounts of excursions near home; and that she felt extremely reluctant to publish anything written by herself.

To this the Editor respectfully replied, that, if printed at all, however limited the impression, and however careful the selection of persons to whom copies might be given, some portions of the volume, or quite as probably incorrect representations of its contents, might find their way into the public journals. It would therefore, he thought, be better at once to place the volume within the reach of her Majesty’s subjects, who would, no doubt, derive from it pleasure similar to that which it had afforded to the Editor himself. Moreover, it would be very gratifying to her subjects, who had always shown a sincere and ready sympathy with the personal joys and sorrows of their Sovereign,--to be allowed to know how her rare moments of leisure were passed in her Highland home, when every joy was heightened, and every care and sorrow diminished, by the loving companionship of the Prince Consort. With his memory the scenes to which this volume refers would always be associated.

Upon these considerations her Majesty eventually consented to its publication.

While the book was being printed, the Editor suggested that it would gain in interest if other extracts were added to it, describing her Majesty’s progresses in England, Ireland, and the Channel Islands.

The Queen was pleased to assent; and the additions were accordingly made.

* * * * *

It will easily be seen that this little work does not make any pretension to be more than such a record of the impressions received by the Royal Author in the course of these journeys, as might hereafter serve to recall to her own mind the scenes and circumstances which had been the source of so much pleasure. All references to political questions, or to the affairs of Government, have, for obvious reasons, been studiously omitted. The book is mainly confined to the natural expressions of a mind rejoicing in the beauties of nature, and throwing itself, with a delight rendered keener by the rarity of its opportunities, into the enjoyment of a life removed, for the moment, from the pressure of public cares.

* * * * *

It would not be becoming in the Editor to dwell largely upon the merits of this work. He may, however, allude to the picturesque descriptions of scenery in which the work abounds; to the simplicity of diction throughout it; and to the perfect faithfulness of narration which is one of its chief characteristics; for in every page the writer describes what she thinks and feels, rather than what she might be expected to think and feel.

Moreover, he may point out the willingness to be pleased, upon which so much of the enjoyment of any tour depends: and also the exceeding kindliness of feeling--the gratitude even--with which the Royal Tourists recognize any attention paid to them, or any manifestation of the cordial attachment felt towards them, by any of her Majesty’s subjects, from the highest to the humblest, whom they happen to meet with in the course of their journeys.

* * * * *

The Editor thinks that he should not be doing justice to the Royal Author’s book--not doing what, if it were any other person’s work which was entrusted to his editing, he should do--if he were to forbear giving utterance to the thoughts which occurred to him in reference to the notes to the Volume.

These notes, besides indicating that peculiar memory for persons, and that recognition of personal attachment, which have been very noticeable in our Sovereigns, illustrate, in a striking manner, the Patriarchal feeling (if one may apply such a word as “patriarchal” to a lady) which is so strong in the present occupant of the Throne. Perhaps there is no person in these realms who takes a more deep and abiding interest in the welfare of the household committed to his charge than our gracious Queen does in hers, or who feels more keenly what are the reciprocal duties of masters and servants.

Nor does any one wish more ardently than her Majesty, that there should be no abrupt severance of class from class, but rather a gradual blending together of all classes,--caused by a full community of interests, a constant interchange of good offices, and a kindly respect felt and expressed by each class to all its brethren in the great brotherhood that forms a nation.

Those whose duty it has been to attend upon the Queen in matters of business, must have noticed that her Majesty, as a person well versed in the conduct of affairs, is wont to keep closely to the point at issue, and to speak of nothing but what is directly connected with the matter before her. But whenever there is an exception to this rule, it arises from her Majesty’s anxious desire to make some inquiry about the welfare of her subjects--to express her sympathy with this man’s sorrow, or on that man’s bereavement--to ask what is the latest intelligence about this disaster, or that suffering, and what can be done to remedy or assuage it--thus showing, unconsciously, that she is, indeed, the Mother of her People, taking the deepest interest in all that concerns them, without respect of persons, from the highest to the lowest.

* * * * *

The Editor thinks that one point of interest which will incidentally be disclosed by this publication, is the aspect of the Court in these our times. What would not the historian give to have similar materials within his reach, when writing about the reigns of the great Queen Elizabeth or the good Queen Anne? There is always something in the present which has the appearance of being trivial and prosaic; but the future historian will delight in having details before him furnished by this book and by the _Life of the Prince Consort_[1], which will enable him fully to describe the reign of Victoria, and justly to appreciate the private life of a Sovereign whose public life will enter so largely into the annals of the nineteenth century.

[1] A work which has met with a very cordial reception from the public, and which, from what the Editor has seen, will not by any means diminish in interest as it proceeds to describe the full and busy life of the Prince as a man.

One more remark the Editor cannot refrain from making; namely, that it is evident that her Majesty never takes for granted the services and attentions which are rendered to her, and which we all know would be rendered to her from dutiful respect and regard, but views them as especial kindnesses shown to herself, and to which she makes no claim whatever from her exalted position as a Sovereign.

This latter trait, very characteristic of the Royal Author, gives, throughout, an additional charm to the book, which, on that account alone, and apart even from its many other merits, will, the Editor doubts not, be gratefully and affectionately welcomed by the public.

LONDON,
_January, 1868_.

CONTENTS.

EARLIER VISITS TO SCOTLAND.

DATE PAGE

First Visit to Scotland 29 Aug. 1842 1

Visit to Blair Athole 9 Sept. 1844 29

Tour round the West Coast of Scotland and
Visit to Ardverikie 11 Aug. 1847 43

LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS, 1848-1861.

First Impressions of Balmoral 8 Sept. 1848 65

First Ascent of Loch-na-Gar 16 Sept. 1848 67

A “Drive” in the Balloch Buie 18 Sept. 1848 71

The First Stay at Alt-na-Giuthasach 30 Aug. 1849 73

A Beat in the Abergeldie Woods 3 Sept. 1849 76

Visit to the Dhu Loch, &c. 11 Sept. 1849 78

Ascent of Ben-na-Bhourd 6 Sept. 1850 81

The Gathering 12 Sept. 1850 83

Salmon Leistering 13 Sept. 1850 85

Loch Muich 16 Sept. 1850 87

Torch-light Ball at Corriemulzie 10 Sept. 1852 89

Account of the News of the Duke of
Wellington’s Death 16 Sept. 1852 91

Building the Cairn on Craig Gowan, &c. 11 Oct. 1852 95

Laying the Foundation Stone of our New
House 28 Sept. 1853 99

The Kirk 29 Oct. 1854 102

Arrival at the New Castle at Balmoral 7 Sept. 1855 103

Impressions of the New Castle 8 Sept. 1855 104

News of the Fall of Sevastopol 10 Sept. 1855 105

The Betrothal of the Princess Royal 29 Sept. 1855 107

The Kirk 14 Oct. 1855 108

Finding the Old Castle Gone 30 Aug. 1856 109

Gardens, &c. round the New Castle 31 Aug. 1856 110

Love for Balmoral 13 Oct. 1856 111

Opening of the New Bridge over the Linn of
Dee 8 Sept. 1857 112

Visits to the Old Women 26 Sept. 1857 113

Visit to the Prince’s Encampment at Feithort 6 Oct. 1857 115

A Fall of Snow 18 Sept. 1858 117

Ascent of Morven 14 Sept. 1859 121

The Prince’s Return from Aberdeen 15 Sept. 1859 123

Fête to the Members of the British Association 22 Sept. 1859 124

Expedition to Inchrory 30 Sept. 1859 127

Ascent of Ben Muich Dhui 7 Oct. 1859 130

First Great Expedition:--To Glen Fishie and
Grantown 4 Sept. 1860 134

Second Great Expedition:--To Invermark
and Fettercairn 20 Sept. 1861 144

Expedition to Loch Avon 28 Sept. 1861 153

Third Great Expedition:--To Glen Fishie,
Dalwhinnie, and Blair Athole 8 Oct. 1861 156

Last Expedition 16 Oct. 1861 167

TOURS IN ENGLAND AND IRELAND, AND YACHTING EXCURSIONS.

First Visit to Ireland 2 Aug. 1849 175

Yachting Excursion 20 Aug. 1846 195

Second Yachting Excursion 2 Sept. 1846 203

Visit to the Lakes of Killarney 27 Aug. 1861 216

_Directions to the Binder._

Balmoral FRONTISPIECE.

Balmoral--The old Castle TO FACE PAGE 65

The Shiel of Alt-na-Giuthasach ” 73

Balmoral Castle from the North-West ” 111

Fording the Poll Tarf ” 164

Luncheon at Cairn Lochan ” 169

_EARLIER VISITS TO SCOTLAND._

FIRST VISIT TO SCOTLAND.

_On Board the Royal George Yacht,
Monday, August 29, 1842._

At five o’clock in the morning we left _Windsor_ for the railroad, the Duchess of Norfolk, Miss Matilda Paget, General Wemyss, Colonel Bouverie, and Mr. Anson following us. Lord Liverpool, Lord Morton, and Sir James Clark, who also accompany us, had already gone on to _Woolwich_.

We reached _London_ at a quarter to six, got into our carriages, and arrived at _Woolwich_ before seven. Albert and I immediately stepped into our barge. There was a large crowd to see us embark. The Duke of Cambridge, Lord Jersey, Lord Haddington, Lord Bloomfield, and Sir George Cockburn were present in full uniform. Sir George handed me into the barge. It was raining very hard when we got on board, and therefore we remained in our sitting-room.

I annex a list of our squadron:—

1. The ship “Pique,” 36 guns.

2. The sloop “Daphne,” 18 guns--(both of which join us at the _Nore_).

3. The steam-vessel “Salamander” (with the carriages on board).

4. The steam-vessel “Rhadamanthus” (Lord Liverpool and Lord Morton on board).

5. The steam-vessel “Monkey” Tender, which has towed us till nine o’clock (Mr. Anson and the equerries on board).

6. The steam-vessel “Shearwater,” which is now towing us (Sir James Clark on board).

7. The steam-vessel “Black Eagle” (which has the ladies on board, and which tows us in front of the “Shearwater”).

8. The steam-vessel “Lightning” (with the Jäger Benda, and our two dogs, “Eôs” and “Cairnach,” on board) in front, which has gone to take our barge on board from the “Pique.”

9. The steam-vessel “Fearless” (for survey).

This composes our squadron, besides which the Trinity-House steamer goes with us, and, also, a packet. Innumerable little pleasure steamboats have been following us covered with people.

_Tuesday, August 30._

We heard, to our great distress, that we had only gone 58 miles since eight o’clock last night. How annoying and provoking this is! We remained on deck all day lying on sofas; the sea was very rough towards evening, and I was very ill. We reached _Flamborough Head_ on the Yorkshire coast by half-past five.

_Wednesday, August 31._

At five o’clock in the morning we heard, to our great vexation, that we had only been going three knots an hour in the night, and were 50 miles from _St. Abb’s Head_.

We passed _Coquet Island_ and _Bamborough Castle_ on the Northumberland coast, which I was unfortunately unable to see; but from my cabin I saw _Ferne Island_, with Grace Darling’s lighthouse on it; also _Rocky Islands_ and _Holy Island_. At half-past five I went on deck, and immediately lay down. We then came in sight of the Scotch coast, which is very beautiful, so dark, rocky, bold, and wild, totally unlike our coast. We passed _St. Abb’s Head_ at half-past six. Numbers of fishing-boats (in one of which was a piper playing) and steamers full of people came out to meet us, and on board of one large steamer they danced a reel to a band. It was a beautiful evening, calm, with a fine sunset, and the air so pure.

One cannot help noticing how much longer the days are here than they were in _England_. It was not really dark till past eight o’clock, and on Monday and Tuesday evening at _Windsor_ it was nearly dark by half-past seven, quite so before eight. The men begged leave to dance, which they did to the sound of a violin played by a little sailor-boy; they also sang.

We remained on deck till twenty-five minutes to nine, and saw many bonfires on the Scotch coast--at _Dunbar_--Lord Haddington’s place, _Tyninghame_, and at other points on the coast. We let off four rockets, and burned two blue lights. It is surprising to see the sailors climb on the bowsprit and up to the top of the mast-head--this too at all times of the day and night. The man who carried the lantern to the main-top ran up with it in his mouth to the top. They are so handy and so well conducted.

We felt most thankful and happy that we were near our journey’s end.

_Thursday, September 1._

At a quarter to one o’clock, we heard the anchor let down--a welcome sound. At seven we went on deck, where we breakfasted. Close on one side were _Leith_ and the high hills towering over _Edinburgh_, which was in fog; and on the other side was to be seen the _Isle of May_ (where it is said Macduff held out against Macbeth), the _Bass Rock_ being behind us. At ten minutes past eight we arrived at _Granton Pier_, where we were met by the Duke of Buccleuch, Sir Robert Peel and others. They came on board to see us, and Sir Robert told us that the people were all in the highest good-humour, though naturally a little disappointed at having waited for us yesterday. We then stepped over a gangway on to the pier, the people cheering, and the Duke saying that he begged to be allowed to welcome us. Our ladies and gentlemen had landed before us, safe and well, and we two got into a barouche, the ladies and gentlemen following. The Duke, the equerries, and Mr. Anson rode.

There were, however, not nearly so many people in _Edinburgh_, though the crowd and crush were such that one was really continually in fear of accidents. More regularity and order would have been preserved had there not been some mistake on the part of the Provost about giving due notice of our approach. The impression _Edinburgh_ has made upon us is very great; it is quite beautiful, totally unlike anything else I have seen; and what is even more, Albert, who has seen so much, says it is unlike anything _he_ ever saw; it is so regular, everything built of massive stone, there is not a brick to be seen anywhere. The _High Street_, which is pretty steep, is very fine. Then the Castle, situated on that grand rock in the middle of the town, is most striking. On the other side the _Calton Hill_, with the _National Monument_, a building in the Grecian style; _Nelson’s Monument_; _Burns’ Monument_; the _Gaol_; the _National School_, &c.; all magnificent buildings, and with _Arthur’s Seat_ in the background, over-topping the whole, form altogether a splendid spectacle. The enthusiasm was very great, and the people very friendly and kind. The Royal Archers Body Guard[2] met us and walked with us the whole way through the town. It is composed entirely of noblemen and gentlemen, and they all walked close by the carriage; but were dreadfully pushed about. Amongst them were the Duke of Roxburgh and Lord Elcho on my side; and Sir J. Hope on Albert’s side. Lord Elcho[3] (whom I did not know at the time) pointed out the various monuments and places to me as we came along. When we were out of the town, we went faster. Every cottage is built of stone, and so are all the walls that are used as fences.

[2] The Duke of Buccleuch told me the other day, that the Archers Guard was established by James I., and was composed of men who were mounted and armed from head to foot, and who were bound always to be near the Sovereign’s person. At Flodden Field, King James IV.’s body, it is said, was found covered and surrounded by the bodies of the Archers Guard.

[3] Now Earl of Wemyss.

The country and people have quite a different character from _England_ and the English. The old women wear close caps, and all the children and girls are bare-footed. I saw several handsome girls and children with long hair; indeed all the poor girls from sixteen and seventeen down to two or three years old, have loose flowing hair; a great deal of it red.

As we came along we saw _Craigmillar Castle_, a ruin, where Mary, Queen of Scots, used to live. We reached _Dalkeith_ at eleven; a large house, constructed of reddish stone, the greater part built by the Duchess of Monmouth, and the park is very fine and large. The house has three fronts, with the entrance on the left as you drive up. The

Duchess of Buccleuch arrived directly after us, and we were shown up a very handsome staircase to our rooms, which are very comfortable. We both felt dreadfully tired and giddy.

We drove out together. The park is very extensive, with a beautiful view of _Arthur’s Seat_ and the _Pentland Hills_; and there is a pretty drive overhanging a deep valley. At eight we dined--a large party. Everybody was very kind and civil, and full of inquiries as to our voyage.

_Dalkeith House, Friday, September 2._

At breakfast I tasted the oatmeal porridge, which I think very good, and also some of the “Finnan haddies.” We then walked out. The pleasure-grounds seem very extensive and beautiful, wild and hilly. We walked down along the stream (the river _Esk_), up a steep bank to a little cottage, and came home by the upper part of the walk. At four o’clock we drove out with the Duchess of Buccleuch and the Duchess of Norfolk--the Duke and equerries riding--the others in another carriage. We drove through _Dalkeith_, which was full of people, all running and cheering.

Albert says that many of the people look like Germans. The old women with that kind of cap which they call a “mutch,” and the young girls and children with flowing hair, and many of them pretty, are very picturesque; you hardly see any women with bonnets.

Such a thick “Scotch mist” came on that we were obliged to drive home through the village of _Lasswade_, and through Lord Melville’s Park, which is very fine.

_Saturday, September 3._

At ten o’clock we set off--we two in the barouche--all the others following, for _Edinburgh_. We drove in under _Arthur’s Seat_, where the crowd began to be very great, and here the Guard of Royal Archers met us; Lord Elcho walking near me, and the Duke of Roxburgh and Sir J. Hope on Albert’s side. We passed by _Holyrood Chapel_, which is very old and full of interest, and _Holyrood Palace_, a royal-looking old place. The procession moved through the _Old Town_ up the _High Street_, which is a most extraordinary street from the immense height of the houses, most of them being eleven stories high, and different families living in each story. Every window was crammed full of people. They showed us _Knox’s House_, a curious old building, as is also the _Regent Murray’s House_, which is in perfect preservation. In the _Old Town_ the _High Church_, and _St. Paul’s_ in the _New Town_, are very fine buildings. At the barrier, the Provost presented us with the keys.

The girls of the _Orphan Asylum_, and the Trades in old costumes, were on a platform. Further on was the _New Church_, to which--strange to say, as the church is nearly finished--they were going to lay the foundation stone. We at length reached the Castle, to the top of which we walked.

The view from both batteries is splendid, like a panorama in extent. We saw from them _Heriot’s Hospital_, a beautiful old building, founded, in the time of James, by a goldsmith and jeweller, whom Sir Walter Scott has made famous in his _Fortunes of Nigel_. After this, we got again into the carriages and proceeded in the same way as before, the pressure of the crowd being really quite alarming; and both I and Albert were quite terrified for the Archers Guard, who had very hard work of it; but were of the greatest use. They all carry a bow in one hand, and have their arrows stuck through their belts.

Unfortunately, as soon as we were out of _Edinburgh_, it began to rain, and continued raining the whole afternoon without interruption. We reached _Dalmeny_, Lord Roseberry’s, at two o’clock. The park is beautiful, with the trees growing down to the sea. It commands a very fine view of the _Forth_, the _Isle of May_, the _Bass Rock_, and of _Edinburgh_; but the mist rendered it almost impossible to see anything. The grounds are very extensive, being hill and dale and wood. The house is quite modern: Lord Roseberry built it, and it is very pretty and comfortable. We lunched there. The Roseberrys were all civility and attention. We left them about half-past three, and proceeded home through _Leith_.

The view of _Edinburgh_ from the road before you enter _Leith_ is quite enchanting; it is, as Albert said, “fairy-like,” and what you would only imagine as a thing to dream of, or to see in a picture. There was that beautiful large town, all of stone (no mingled colours of brick to mar it), with the bold Castle on one side, and the _Calton Hill_ on the other, with those high sharp hills of _Arthur’s Seat_ and _Salisbury Crags_ towering above all, and making the finest, boldest background imaginable. Albert said he felt sure the _Acropolis_ could not be finer; and I hear they sometimes call _Edinburgh_ “the modern _Athens_.” The Archers Guard met us again at _Leith_, which is not a pretty town.

The people were most enthusiastic, and the crowd very great. The Porters all mounted, with curious Scotch caps, and their horses decorated with flowers, had a very singular effect; but the fishwomen are the most striking-looking people, and are generally young and pretty women--very clean and very Dutch-looking, with their white caps and bright-coloured petticoats. They never marry out of their class.

At six we returned well tired.

_Sunday, September 4._

We walked to see the new garden which is being made, and saw Mackintosh there, who was formerly gardener at _Claremont_. The view of _Dalkeith_ (the village, or rather town) from thence is extremely picturesque, and Albert says very German-looking. We returned over a rough sort of bridge, made only of planks, which crosses the _Esk_, and which, with the wooded banks on each side, is excessively pretty. Received from Lady Lyttelton good accounts of our little children. At twelve o’clock there were prayers in the house, read by Mr. Ramsay, who also preached.

At half-past four the Duchess drove me out in her own phaeton, with a very pretty pair of chestnut ponies, Albert riding with the Duke and Colonel Bouverie. We drove through parts of the park, through an old wood, and along the banks of the _South Esk_ and the _North Esk_, which meet at a point from which there is such a beautiful view of the _Pentland Hills_. Then we drove, by a private road, to _Newbattle_, Lord Lothian’s place. The park is very fine, and the house seems large; we got out to look at a most magnificent beech-tree. The _South Esk_ runs close before the house, by a richly wooded bank.

From thence we went to _Dalhousie_, Lord Dalhousie’s. The house is a real old Scotch castle, of reddish stone. We got out for a moment, and the Dalhousies showed us the drawing-room. From the window you see a beautiful wooded valley, and a peep of the distant hills.

Lord Dalhousie said there had been no British sovereign there since Henry IV. We drove home by the same way that we came. The evening was--as the whole day had been--clear, bright, and frosty, and the _Moorfoot Hills_ (another range) looked beautiful as we were returning. It was past seven when we got home.

_Monday, September 5._

I held a Drawing-room at _Dalkeith_ to-day, in the gallery. The Ministers and Scotch Officers of State were in the room, and the Royal Archers were in attendance in the room and outside of it, like the Gentlemen at Arms in _London_. Before the Drawing-room I received three addresses--from the Lord Provost and Magistrates, from the Scotch Church, and from the Universities of _St. Andrews_, _Glasgow_, and _Edinburgh_--to which I read answers. Albert received his just after I did mine, and read his answers beautifully.

_Tuesday, September 6._

At nine o’clock we left _Dalkeith_ as we came. It was a bright, clear, cold, frosty morning. As we drove along we saw the _Pentlands_, which looked beautiful, as did also _Arthur’s Seat_, which we passed quite close by. The _Salisbury Crags_, too, are very high, bold, and sharp. Before this we saw _Craigmillar_. We passed through a back part of the town (which is most solidly built), close by _Heriot’s Hospital_, and had a very fine view of the Castle.

I forgot to say that, when we visited the Castle, we saw the Regalia, which are very old and curious (they were lost for one hundred years); also the room in which James VI. of Scotland and the First of England was born--such a very, very small room, with an old prayer written on the wall. We had a beautiful view of _Edinburgh_ and the _Forth_. At _Craigleith_ (only a half-way house, nine miles) we changed horses. The Duke rode with us all the way as Lord-Lieutenant of the county, until we arrived at _Dalmeny_, where Lord Hopetoun met us and rode with us. At eleven we reached the _South Queensferry_, where we got out of our carriage and embarked in a little steamer; the ladies and gentlemen and our carriages going in another. We went a little way up the _Forth_, to see _Hopetoun House_, Lord Hopetoun’s, which is beautifully situated between _Hopetoun_ and _Dalmeny_. We also saw _Dundas Castle_, belonging to Dundas of Dundas, and further on, beyond _Hopetoun_, _Blackness Castle_, famous in history. On the opposite side you see a square tower, close to the water, called _Rosyth_, where Oliver Cromwell’s mother was said to have been born, and in the distance _Dunfermline_, where Robert Bruce is buried. We passed close by a very pretty island in the _Forth_, with an old castle on it, called _Inchgarvie_; and we could see the Forth winding beautifully, and had a distant glimpse of _Edinburgh_ and its fine Castle. We landed safely on the other side, at _North Queensferry_, and got into our carriages. Captain Wemyss, elder brother to General Wemyss, rode with us all the way beyond _Cowdenbeath_ (eight miles). The first village we passed through on leaving the _Queensferry_, was _Inverkeithing_. We passed by Sir P. Durham’s property.

We changed horses at _Cowdenbeath_. At a quarter-past one we entered _Kinross-shire_. Soon after, the country grew prettier, and the hills appeared again, partly wooded. We passed _Loch Leven_, and saw the castle on the lake from which poor Queen Mary escaped. There the country is rather flat, and the hills are only on one side. We changed horses next at _Kinross_. Soon after this, the mountains, which are rather barren, began to appear. Then we passed the valley of _Glen Farg_; the hills are very high on each side, and completely wooded down to the bottom of the valley, where a small stream runs on one side of the road--it is really lovely.

On leaving this valley you come upon a beautiful view of _Strathearn_ and _Moncrieffe Hill_. We were then in _Perthshire_. We changed horses next at the _Bridge of Earn_ (12 miles). At half-past three we reached _Dupplin_, Lord Kinnoull’s. All the time the views of the hills, and dales, and streams were lovely. The last part of the road very bad travelling, up and down hill. _Dupplin_ is a very fine modern house, with a very pretty view of the hills on one side, and a small waterfall close in front of the house. A battalion of the 42nd Highlanders was drawn up before the house, and the men looked very handsome in their kilts. We each received an address from the nobility and gentry of the county, read by Lord Kinnoull; and from the Provost and Magistrates of _Perth_. We then lunched. The Willoughbys, Kinnairds, Ruthvens, and Lord Mansfield, and one of his sisters, with others, were there. After luncheon, we walked a little way in the grounds, and then at five o’clock we set off again. We very soon came upon _Perth_, the situation of which is quite lovely; it is on the _Tay_, with wooded hills skirting it entirely on one side, and hills are seen again in the distance, the river winding beautifully.

Albert was charmed, and said it put him in mind of the situation of _Basle_. The town itself (which is very pretty) was immensely crowded, and the people very enthusiastic; triumphal arches had been erected in various places. The Provost presented me with the keys, and Albert with the freedom of the city. Two miles beyond is _Scone_ (Lord Mansfield’s), a fine-looking house of reddish stone.

Lord Mansfield and the Dowager Lady Mansfield received us at the door, and took us to our rooms, which were very nice.

_Wednesday, September 7._

We walked out, and saw the mound on which the ancient Scotch kings were always crowned; also the old arch with James VI.’s arms, and the old cross, which is very interesting.

Before our windows stands a sycamore-tree planted by James VI. A curious old book was brought to us from _Perth_, in which the last signatures are those of James I. (of England) and of Charles I., and we were asked to write our names in it, and we did so. Lord Mansfield told me yesterday that there were some people in the town who wore the identical dresses that had been worn in Charles I.’s time. At eleven o’clock we set off as before. We drove through part of _Perth_, and had a very fine view of _Scone_. A few miles on, we passed the field of battle of _Luncarty_, where tradition says the Danes were beaten by Lord Erroll’s ancestor. We also passed Lord Lynedoch’s property. We then changed horses at the “New Inn” at _Auchtergaven_. The _Grampians_ came now distinctly into view; they are indeed a grand range of mountains.

To the left we saw _Tullybelton_, where it is said the Druids used to sacrifice to Bel; there are a few trees on the top of the mountain.

To the left; but more immediately before us, we saw _Birnam_, where once stood _Birnam Wood_, so renowned in _Macbeth_. We passed a pretty shooting place of Sir W. Stewart’s, called _Rohallion_, nearly at the foot of _Birnam_. To the right we saw the _Stormont_ and _Strathtay_. Albert said, as we came along between the mountains, that to the right, where they were wooded, it was very like _Thüringen_, and on the left more like _Switzerland_. _Murthly_, to the right, which belongs to Sir W. Stewart, is in a very fine situation, with the _Tay_ winding under the hill. This lovely scenery continues all along to _Dunkeld_. Lord Mansfield rode with us the whole way.

Just outside _Dunkeld_, before a triumphal arch, Lord Glenlyon’s Highlanders, with halberds, met us, and formed our guard--a piper playing before us. _Dunkeld_ is beautifully situated in a narrow valley, on the banks of the _Tay_. We drove in to where the Highlanders were all drawn up, in the midst of their encampments, and where a tent was prepared for us to lunch in. Poor Lord Glenlyon[4] received us; but he had suddenly become totally blind, which is dreadful for him. He was led about by his wife; it was very melancholy. His blindness was caused by over-fatigue. The Dowager Lady Glenlyon, the Mansfields, Kinnoulls, Buccleuchs, and many others were there. We walked down the ranks of the Highlanders, and then partook of luncheon, the piper played, and one of the Highlanders[5] danced the “sword dance.” (Two swords crossed are laid upon the ground, and the dancer has to dance across them without touching them.) Some of the others danced a reel.

[4] The late Duke of Athole.

[5] Charles Christie, now steward to the present Dowager Duchess of Athole.

At a quarter to four we left _Dunkeld_ as we came, the Highland Guard marching with us till we reached the outside of the town. The drive was quite beautiful all the way to _Taymouth_.[6] The two highest hills of the range on each side are (to the right, as you go on after leaving _Dunkeld_) _Craig-y-Barns_ and (to the left, immediately above _Dunkeld_) _Craigvinean_. The _Tay_ winds along beautifully, and the hills are richly wooded. We changed horses first at _Balanagard_ (nine miles), to which place Captain Murray, Lord Glenlyon’s brother, rode with us. The hills grew higher and higher, and Albert said it was very Swiss-looking in some parts. High ribbed mountains appeared in the distance, higher than any we have yet seen. This was near _Aberfeldy_ (nine miles), which is charmingly situated and the mountains very lofty. At a quarter to six we reached _Taymouth_. At the gate a guard of Highlanders, Lord Breadalbane’s men, met us. _Taymouth_ lies in a valley surrounded by very high, wooded hills; it is most beautiful. The house is a kind of castle, built of granite. The _coup-d’œil_ was indescribable. There were a number of Lord Breadalbane’s Highlanders, all in the Campbell tartan, drawn up in front of the house, with Lord Breadalbane himself in a Highland dress at their head, a few of Sir Neil Menzies’ men (in the Menzies red and white tartan), a number of pipers playing, and a company of the 92nd Highlanders, also in kilts. The firing of the guns, the cheering of the great crowd, the picturesqueness of the dresses, the beauty of the surrounding country, with its rich background of wooded hills, altogether formed one of the finest scenes imaginable. It seemed as if a great chieftain in olden feudal times was receiving his sovereign. It was princely and romantic. Lord and Lady Breadalbane took us upstairs, the hall and stairs being lined with Highlanders.

[6] I revisited Taymouth last autumn, on the 3rd of October, from Dunkeld (incognita), with Louise, the Dowager Duchess of Athole, and Miss MacGregor. As we could not have driven through the grounds without asking permission, and we did not wish to be known, we decided upon not attempting to do so, and contented ourselves with getting out at a gate close to a small fort, into which we were led by a woman from the gardener’s house, near to which we had stopped, and who had no idea who we were.

We got out, and looked from this height down upon the house below, the mist having cleared away sufficiently to show us everything; and then, unknown, quite in private, I gazed--not without deep emotion--on the scene of our reception twenty-four years ago, by dear Lord Breadalbane, in a princely style, not to be equalled in grandeur and poetic effect.

Albert and I were then only twenty-three, young and happy. How many are gone that were with us then!

I was very thankful to have seen it again.

It seemed unaltered.--1866.

The Gothic staircase is of stone and very fine; the whole of the house is newly and exquisitely furnished. The drawing-room, especially, is splendid. Thence you go into a passage and a library, which adjoins our private apartments. They showed us two sets of apartments, and we chose those which are on the right hand of the corridor or ante-room to the library. At eight we dined. Staying in the house, besides ourselves, are the Buccleuchs and the two Ministers, the Duchess of Sutherland and Lady Elizabeth Leveson Gower,[7] the Abercorns, Roxburghs, Kinnoulls, Lord Lauderdale, Sir Anthony Maitland, Lord Lorne,[8] the Fox Maules, Belhavens, Mr. and Mrs. William Russell, Sir J. and Lady Elizabeth, and the Misses Pringle, and two Messrs. Baillie, brothers of Lady Breadalbane. The dining-room is a fine room in Gothic style, and has never been dined in till this day. Our apartments also are inhabited for the first time. After dinner the grounds were most splendidly illuminated,--a whole chain of lamps along the railings, and on the ground was written in lamps, “Welcome Victoria--Albert.”

[7] Now Duchess of Argyll.

[8] The present Duke of Argyll.

A small fort, which is up in the woods, was illuminated, and bonfires were burning on the tops of the hills. I never saw anything so fairy-like. There were some pretty fireworks, and the whole ended by the Highlanders dancing reels, which they do to perfection, to the sound of the pipes, by torch-light, in front of the house. It had a wild and very gay effect.

_Taymouth, Thursday, September 8._

Albert went off at half-past nine o’clock to shoot with Lord Breadalbane. I walked out with the Duchess of Norfolk along a path overlooking the _Tay_, which is very clear, and ripples and foams along over the stones, the high mountains forming such a rich background. We got up to the dairy, which is a kind of Swiss cottage, built of quartz, very clean and nice. From the top of it there is a very pretty view of _Loch Tay_.

We returned home by the way we came. It rained the whole time, and very hard for a little while. Albert returned at half-past three. He had had excellent sport, and the trophies of it were spread out before the house--nineteen roe-deer, several hares and pheasants, and three brace of grouse; there was also a capercailzie that had been wounded, and which I saw afterwards, a magnificent large bird.

Albert had been near _Aberfeldy_, and had to shoot and walk the whole way back, Lord Breadalbane himself beating, and 300 Highlanders out. We went out at five, with Lady Breadalbane and the Duchess of Sutherland; we saw part of _Loch Tay_, and drove along the banks of the _Tay_ under fine trees, and saw Lord Breadalbane’s American buffaloes.

_Friday, September 9._

Albert off again after nine o’clock, to shoot. Soon after he left I walked out with the Duchess of Norfolk across the iron bridge, and along a grass walk overhanging the _Tay_.

Two of the Highland Guard (they were stationed at almost every gate in the park) followed us, and it looked like olden times to see them with their swords drawn.

We then walked to a lodge on the same road. A fat, good-humoured little woman, about forty years old, cut some flowers for each of us, and the Duchess gave her some money, saying, “From Her Majesty.” I never saw any one more surprised than she was; she, however, came up to me and said very warmly, that my people were delighted to see me in _Scotland_. It came on to rain very heavily soon afterwards, but we walked on. We saw a woman in the river, with her dress tucked up almost to her knees, washing potatoes.

The rain ceased just as we came home, but it went on pouring frequently. Albert returned at twenty minutes to three, having had very hard work on the moors, wading up to his knees in bogs every now and then, and had killed nine brace of grouse. We lunched; then we went to the drawing-room, and saw from the window the Highlanders dancing reels; but unfortunately it rained the whole time. There were nine pipers at the castle; sometimes one, and sometimes three played. They always played about breakfast-time, again during the morning, at luncheon, and also whenever we went in and out; again before dinner, and during most of dinnertime. We both have become quite fond of the bagpipes.

At a quarter-past five we drove out with the Duchess of Buccleuch and the Duchess of Sutherland (poor Lady Breadalbane not being very well), Lord Breadalbane riding the whole time before us. We took a most beautiful drive, first of all along part of the lake and between the hills--such thorough mountain scenery,--and with little huts, so low, so full of peat smoke, that one could hardly see anything for smoke. We saw _Ben Lawers_, which is said to be 4,000 feet high, very well, and further on, quite in the distance, _Ben More_--also the _Glenlyon_, and the river _Lyon_, and many fine glens. It was quite dark when we came home at half-past seven. At eight we dined; Lord and Lady Ruthven and Lord and Lady Duncan dined here. After dinner came a number of people, about ninety, and there was a ball. It opened with a quadrille, which I danced with Lord Breadalbane, and Albert with the Duchess of Buccleuch. A number of reels were danced, which it was very amusing and pretty to see.

_Saturday, September 10._

We walked to the dairy and back--a fine bright morning; the weather the two preceding days had been very unfortunate. I drove a little way with Lady Breadalbane, the others walking, and then got out, and each of us planted two trees, a fir and an oak. We got in again, and drove with the whole party down to the lake, where we embarked. Lady Breadalbane, the Duchess of Sutherland and Lady Elizabeth went by land, but all the others went in boats. With us were Lord Breadalbane and the Duchess of Norfolk and Duchess of Buccleuch; and two pipers sat on the bow and played very often. I have since been reading in _The Lady of the Lake_, and this passage reminds me of our voyage:—

“See the proud pipers on the bow,
And mark the gaudy streamers flow
From their loud chanters down, and sweep
The furrow’d bosom of the deep,
As, rushing through the lake amain,
They plied the ancient Highland strain.”

Our row of 16 miles up _Loch Tay_ to _Auchmore_, a cottage of Lord Breadalbane’s, near the end of the lake, was the prettiest thing imaginable. We saw the splendid scenery to such great advantage on both sides: _Ben Lawers_, with small waterfalls descending its sides, amid other high mountains wooded here and there; with _Kenmore_ in the distance; the view, looking back, as the loch winds, was most beautiful. The boatmen sang two Gaelic boat-songs, very wild and singular; the language so guttural and yet so soft. Captain McDougall, who steered, and who is the head of the McDougalls, showed us the real “brooch of Lorn,” which was taken by his ancestor from Robert Bruce in a battle. The situation of _Auchmore_ is exquisite; the trees growing so beautifully down from the top of the mountains, quite into the water, and the mountains all round, make it an enchanting spot. We landed and lunched in the cottage, which is a very nice little place. The day was very fine; the Highlanders were there again. We left _Auchmore_ at twenty minutes past three, having arrived there at a quarter before three. The kindness and attention to us of Lord and of Lady Breadalbane (who is very delicate) were unbounded. We passed _Killin_, where there is a mountain stream running over large stones, and forming waterfalls.

The country we came to now was very wild, beginning at _Glen Dochart_, through which the _Dochart_ flows; nothing but moors and very high rocky mountains. We came to a small lake called, I think, _Laragilly_, amidst the wildest and finest scenery we had yet seen. _Glen Ogle_, which is a sort of long pass, putting one in mind of the prints of the _Kyber Pass_, the road going for some way down hill and up hill, through these very high mountains, and the escort in front looking like mere specks from the great height. We also saw _Ben Voirlich_. At _Loch Earn Head_ we changed horses. Lord Breadalbane rode with us the whole way up to this point, and then he put his Factor (in Highland dress) up behind our carriage. It came on to rain, and rained almost the whole of the rest of the time. We passed along _Loch Earn_, which is a very beautiful long lake skirted by high mountains; but is not so long or so large as _Loch Tay_. Just as we turned and went by _St. Fillans_, the view of the lake was very fine. There is a large detached rock with rich verdure on it, which is very striking.

We also saw _Glenartney_, the mountain on which Lord Willoughby has his deer forest. We passed by Sir D. Dundas’s place, _Dunira_, before we changed horses at _Comrie_, for the last time, and then by Mr. Williamson’s, and by _Ochtertyre_, Sir W. Keith Murray’s.

Triumphal arches were erected in many places. We passed through _Crieff_, and a little past seven reached _Drummond Castle_, by a very steep ascent. Lord Willoughby received us at the door, and showed us to our rooms, which are small but nice. Besides Lord and Lady Willoughby and the two Misses Willoughby, and our own people, the dinner-party was composed of the Duchess of Sutherland and Lady Elizabeth L. Gower, Lord and Lady Carington, Mr. and Mrs. Heathcote, the Duke de Richelieu, Lord Ossulston, Mr. Drummond, and the officers of the Guard.

_Drummond Castle, Sunday, September 11._

We walked in the garden, which is really very fine, with terraces, like an old French garden. Part of the old castle and the archway remains.

At twelve o’clock we had prayers in the drawing-room, which were read by a young clergyman, who preached a good sermon.

It poured the whole afternoon, and, after writing, I read to Albert the three first cantos of _The Lay of the Last Minstrel_, which delighted us both; and then we looked over some curious, fine old prints by Ridinger. At eight we dined. The Duchess of Sutherland and Lady Elizabeth had gone; but Lord and Lady Abercorn and Lord and Lady Kinnoull and their daughter added to the party.

_Monday, September 12._

Albert got up at five o’clock to go out deer-stalking. I walked out with the Duchess of Norfolk.

All the Highlanders (Lord Willoughby’s people, 110 in number), were drawn up in the court, young Mr. Willoughby and Major Drummond being at their head, and I walked round with Lady Willoughby. All the arms they wore belonged to Lord Willoughby; and there was one double-hilted sword, which had been at the battle of _Bannockburn_. I hear that at _Dunkeld_ there were nearly 900 Highlanders, 500 being _Athole_ men; and, altogether, with the various Highlanders who were on guard, there were 1,000 men.

At length--a little before three--to my joy, Albert returned, dreadfully sunburnt, and a good deal tired; he had shot a stag. He said the exertion and difficulty were very great. He had changed his dress at a small farm-house. _Glenartney_ is ten miles from _Drummond Castle_; he drove there. Campbell of Monzie (pronounced “Monie”), a young gentleman who has a place near here, went with him and was, Albert said, extremely active. To give some description of this curious sport, I will copy an extract from a letter Albert has written to Charles,[9] giving a short account of it:—

“Without doubt deer-stalking is one of the most fatiguing, but it is also one of the most interesting of pursuits. There is not a tree, or a bush behind which you can hide yourself.... One has, therefore, to be constantly on the alert in order to circumvent them; and to keep under the hill out of their wind, crawling on hands and knees, and dressed entirely in grey.”

[9] My half-brother, Prince Leiningen, who died in 1856.

At half-past four we drove out with Lady Willoughby and the Duchess of Buccleuch. We drove through _Fern Tower_ (belonging to the widow of the first Sir D. Baird), where we stopped the carriage; then to _Abercairny_, Major Moray’s. We got out there a moment to look at the very fine house he is building, then drove home by _Monzie_ (Campbell of Monzie’s), and Sir W. Murray’s, and had a very good view of the Highland hills--a very fine day. At eight we dined. The Belhavens, Seftons, Cravens, Campbell of Monzie, and various others composed the party. After dinner more people came--several in kilts; and many reels were danced; Campbell of Monzie is an exceedingly good dancer. We danced one country dance--I with Lord Willoughby--and Albert with Lady Carington.

_Tuesday, September 13._

We had to start early, and therefore got up soon after seven o’clock; breakfast before eight. At nine we set off. The morning was very foggy and hazy. We passed near Lord Strathallan’s place and stopped for a moment where old Lady Strathallan was seated. Lord Willoughby rode with us the whole way till we arrived here. Soon after this we came to a very extraordinary Roman encampment at _Ardoch_, called the “Lindrum.” Albert got out; but I remained in the carriage, and Major Moray showed it to him. They say it is one of the most perfect in existence.

We changed horses at _Greenloaning_, and passed through _Dunblane_. At twelve o’clock we reached _Stirling_, where the crowd was quite fearful, and the streets so narrow, that it was most alarming; and order was not very well kept. Up to the Castle, the road or street is dreadfully steep; we had a foot procession before us the whole way, and the heat was intense. The situation of the Castle is extremely grand; but I prefer that of _Edinburgh Castle_. Old Sir Archibald Christie explained everything to us very well. We were shown the room where James II. killed Douglas, and the window out of which he was thrown. The ceiling is most curious. A skeleton was found in the garden only twenty-five years ago, and there appears to be little doubt it was Douglas’s. From the terrace the view is very extensive; but it was so thick and hazy, that we could not see the Highland hills well. Sir A. Christie showed us the field of the battle of _Bannockburn_; and the “Knoll,” close under the walls of the Castle, from which the ladies used to watch the tournaments; all the embankments yet remain. We also saw Knox’s pulpit.