Chapter V

Departure from Katunga — Difficulties with the Carriers — Musicians of Atoopa — Town of Keeshee — Curiosity of the Natives — The Falátah town of Acba — Character of its Inhabitants — The Governor of Keeshee and his Wife — Their Superstition — Leave Keeshee — Robbers — Cross the Moussa — Change in the Country — Escort from the King of Kiáma — Arrival in that City.

Considerable time elapsed before the carriers were ready to take up their loads, and much murmuring was occasioned by their size and weight. We then left the city, and returned to _Eetcho_ by the way we had come. One of our horses became so weak on the road, that he was unable to carry his rider (old Pascoe), so that we were obliged to drive him along before us, which was a tiresome and unpleasant occupation. The journey from Katunga is long, and, owing to the ruggedness of the path, is very fatiguing; and as we were much in advance of the remainder of the party, we halted at Eetcholee until they joined us. Here we let our horses graze, partook of some beer and other refreshment; and sat down on the turf to enjoy ourselves, for the day had been sultry and the heat oppressive, and our whole party were nearly exhausted.

_Saturday, May 22d._—The Katunga carriers all complained of pains in their limbs this morning, and on reaching _Leoguadda_, which lies midway between Eetcho and Atoopa, they placed their burdens on the ground, and, to a man, stoutly refused to take them any further till to-morrow. Our own men also, who were still more heavily laden than they, had suffered so much from the long and irksome journey of yesterday, particularly Jowdie, who is the strongest and most athletic of them all, that we greatly feared they would have been taken seriously ill on the road. We therefore lightened their burdens, and distributed a portion of what we had taken out of them, into the boxes, &c., of their already overladen Katunga associates, without, however, permitting the latter to know anything of the circumstance. Among the carriers was a very little man, called _Gazherie_ (small man) on account of his diminutive stature; he was, notwithstanding, very muscular, and possessed uncommon strength, activity, and vigour of body, and bore a package, containing our tent, &c., which, though very heavy, was yet by far the lightest load of the whole. Conceiving that corporal strength, rather than bulk or height, should, in this case, be taken into account, a bag of shot, weighing 28 lbs. was extracted from Jowdie’s burden, and clandestinely added to his. The little man trudged along merrily without dreaming of the fraud that had been practised on him, till we arrived within a short distance of Leoguadda, when, imagining that one end of the tent felt much heavier than the other, he was induced to take it from his head, and presently discovered the cheat, for the bag having been thrust simply inside the covering, it could be seen without unlacing the package. He was much enraged at being thus deceived, and called his companions around him to witness the fact, and said he was resolved to proceed no farther than Leoguadda. He then succeeded in persuading them to follow his example, and thus a kind of combination was instantly formed against us.

As is usual with us on entering a village, we rested a little while under a shady tree in Leoguadda, and here we were presently surrounded by the murmuring carriers, with the little man at their head. They were furious at first, and gave us to understand that they would go no further, and were determined, let the consequence be what it might, to remain in the town all night. Leoguadda contained no accommodations whatever for us; a storm seemed to be gathering over our heads; and Atoopa was the town in which the king of Katunga had advised us to spend the night. We resolved, therefore, to go on to that town, and strenuously endeavoured, by gentle means, to bring over the carriers to our views; but these failing, we resorted to their own mode of argument, namely, fierce looks, violent action, vociferous bawling, and expressive gesture, which intimidated them so much, that they snatched up their burdens without saying a word, and ran away with alacrity and good humour. These carriers are to accompany us as far as the frontier town of the kingdom.

It is market-day at Atoopa, and at a distance of some miles from the town, the hum of human voices could be distinctly heard. Just after our arrival, a man of note, who is a public singer and dancer, stood before the door of our hut to entertain us with a specimen of his abilities; and he entered with so much warmth and agility into the spirit of his profession, that his whimsical performance really afforded us much diversion. The musician had two assistant drummers in his train, whose instruments were far from being unmusical, and likewise several other men, whose part was to keep time by clapping with their hands. The dancing was excellent of its kind, and resembled more the European style than any we had before seen in the country. The singing was equally good, the voices of the men being clear and agreeable; they sang the responses, and likewise accompanied the chanting of their master with their voices; indeed, they performed their part of the entertainment to admiration. A _fatàkie_ (a smaller number than a _gaffley_) of merchants left Atoopa yesterday for Kiáma, and it is likely that we shall overtake them at the next town.

We omitted to mention in yesterday’s journal, that to our infinite astonishment we saw a middle-aged woman sitting on the road-side, the colour of whose skin was naturally as bright a red as a piece of our own scarlet cloth. We were informed that she was in good health; but we were in too great a hurry to ask her any questions, or take a nearer view of her person; indeed, our guide seemed much disinclined to go within a hundred yards of her. She was a most singular looking being.

_Sunday, May 23d._—Though our horses were this morning in a very weak condition, and all looked extremely sorrowful, yet we quitted Atoopa at an early hour and in good spirits; and journeying in a westerly direction, in two hours’ time we entered a lively little walled town, called _Bumbum_. Here we dismounted, and took a slight refreshment of parched corn and water, on the trunk of a fallen tree. Bumbum is a great thoroughfare for _fatàkies_ of merchants, trading from Hàussa, Borgoo, and other countries, to Gonja; and consequently a vast quantity of land is cultivated in its vicinity with corn and yams, to supply them with provisions. On quitting this town, our course altered to N.W., and continued so till our arrival at the large and important town of _Keeshee_, which is on the frontiers of the kingdom, and distant from Atoopa only about twelve miles. It is surrounded by a double strong clay wall, and is in an excellent situation, as a place of security from the attacks of an enemy. Before entering this place, and at the distance of a mile from it, we passed through a clean, extensive, and highly flourishing Falátah village, called _Acba_, which, like most other places in Yarriba inhabited by Falátahs, is well stocked with sheep and cattle.

A governor of Keeshee died only ten days ago; and we were well received by his successor, who is an elderly and respectable looking man. Shortly after our arrival, he sent us a present of a fine young bullock, a quantity of yams, and more than a gallon of excellent strong beer. In the centre of the town there is a high stony hill, almost covered with trees of stunted growth, to which, in case of invasion by an enemy, the inhabitants fly for refuge. As soon as they have reached its summit, it is borne, say they, by a supernatural power beyond the clouds, where it remains till the danger is over. Some years have elapsed since this miracle last took place, yet the story is told with a serious belief of its truth, and with the most amusing gravity. About a quarter of a mile to the north-east of this marvellous hill, rises another, which very much resembles it in shape and appearance; but the latter is rather larger and higher, and overlooks the country for many miles round.

A great number of emigrants from different countries reside here: there are not a few from Borgoo, Nouffie, Hàussa, and Bornou, and two or three Tuâricks, from the borders of the Great Desert. To the west of the town is a picturesque hill of a gentle ascent, on which are several small hamlets. These hamlets have a rural and eminently beautiful appearance. In no town through which we have hitherto travelled, have we seen so many fine tall men and good-looking women, as at this place; yet several individuals of both sexes are to be met with who have lost the sight of one eye, and others who have unseemly wens on the throat, as large as cocoa-nuts. We have likewise seen a cripple to-day for the first time, and a female dwarf whose height scarcely exceeds thirty inches, and whose appearance bespeaks her to be between thirty and forty years of age. Her head is disproportionably large to the size of her body; her features, like her voice, are harsh, masculine, and unpleasant in the extreme. It would be ridiculous to be afraid of such a diminutive thing; yet there was an expression in her countenance so peculiarly repulsive, unwomanly, and hideous, that on her approaching our hut, I felt a very unusual and disagreeable sensation steal over me. Descriptions of an elf or a black dwarf in the ‘Arabian Nights’ Entertainments,’ or modern European romances, would serve well to portray the form and lineaments of this singular little being.

This is a market-day here, and I took a walk this evening to the place where the market is held; but the crowd that gathered round me was so great, as to compel me to return home much sooner than I had intended. If I happened to stand still even for a moment, the people pressed by thousands to get close to me; and if I attempted to go on, they tumbled one over another to get out of my way, overturned standings and calabashes, threw down their owners, and scattered their property about in all directions. Smiths welcomed me by clashing their iron tools against each other, and drummers by thumping violently upon one end of their instruments. A few women and children ran from me in a fright; but the majority, less timid, approached as near as they could to catch a glimpse of the first white man they had ever seen. My appearance seemed to interest them amazingly, for they tittered and wished me well, and turned about to titter again. On returning, the crowd became more dense than ever, and drove all before them like a torrent. Dogs, goats, sheep, and poultry were borne along against their will, which terrified them so much, that nothing could be heard but noises of the most lamentable description; children screamed, dogs yelled, sheep and goats bleated most piteously, and fowls cackled and fluttered from among the crowd. And happy indeed was I to shelter myself from all this uproar in our own yard, whither the multitude dared not follow.

The widows of the deceased chief of Keeshee daily set apart a portion of the twenty-four hours to cry for their bereavement, and pray to their gods. They began this evening in the same sad, mournful tone which is commonly heard on similar occasions, all over the country. We asked our interpreter why the women grieved so bitterly. He answered quickly—‘What matter? they laugh directly,’ so I suppose they cry from habit rather than from feeling; and that they can shed tears and be merry in the same breath, whenever they please. About seven o’clock this evening, we heard a public crier proclaiming with a loud voice, that should any one be discovered straggling about the streets after that hour, he would be seized and put to death. Many houses in the town have lately been set on fire by incendiaries, and this most likely has given rise to the above precautionary measure.

_Monday, May 24th._—We have been compelled to remain here to-day, through the governor’s inability to procure us carriers for the luggage. The number of people who have visited us to-day has been so great, and their company so irksome, that we were perplexed for some time how to get rid of them without offence. One party in particular was so unpleasant, and they so seriously incommoded us, that we had recourse to the unusual expedient of smoking them off, by kindling a fire at the door of our hut, before which they were sitting. It succeeded agreeably to our wishes.

A company of women and girls from the Falátah village of _Acba_, impelled by a curiosity so natural to their sex, came likewise to see us in the afternoon; but _their_ society, instead of being disagreeable, as the company of all our other visitors proved to be, was hailed by us with pleasure. For these females are so modest and so retiring, and evince so much native delicacy in their whole behaviour, that they excited in us the highest respect. Their personal attractions are no less winning. They have fine sparkling jetty eyes, with eyelashes dark and glossy as the raven’s plume. Their features are agreeable, although their complexions are tawny. Their general form is elegant, their hands small and delicate; and the peculiar cleanliness of their persons, and neatness of dress added to these, rendered their society altogether as desirable as that of their neighbours was disagreeable.

The Falátahs inhabiting Acba were all born and bred in that town. Their ancestors settled in the country at so remote a period, that, although we made inquiries respecting it, our questions were unavailing, and in fact, not even a tradition has been preserved on the subject. These ‘children of the soil’ lead a harmless, tranquil, and sober life, which they never suffer passing events to disturb. They have no ambition to join their more restless and enterprising countrymen who have made themselves masters of Alòrie and Ràka, nor even to meddle in the private or public concerns of their near neighbours of Keeshee. Indeed they have kept themselves apart and distinct from all; they have retained the language of their fathers and the simplicity of their manners, and their existence glides serenely and happily away, in the enjoyment of the domestic pleasures and social tenderness which are found in civilized society, and which are unknown among their roving countrymen. They are on the best possible terms with their neighbours, like the Falátahs at Bóhoo, and by them they are held in great respect.

The governor of Keeshee is a Borgoo man, and boasts of being the bosom friend of Yarro, chief of Kiáma; but as the old man told us many wonderful stories of the number of towns under his sway, his amazing power, great influence, and the entire subjection in which his own people were kept by his own good government, all of which we listened to with patience, we are inclined to believe that the governor’s pretensions are as hollow as they are improbable. As to his government, he gave us a specimen of it by bawling to a group of children that had followed our steps into the yard, to go about their business. But every one in this country displays this ridiculous vanity; and in most of the towns we have visited, it was the first great care of their chiefs to impress on our minds an idea of their vast importance, which in many instances was refuted by their ragged tobes and squalid appearance. Yet, if their own accounts are to be credited, their affluence and power are unbounded. To this vainglorious feeling they sacrifice truth, which in almost all cases they highly reverence, and make themselves truly ridiculous by their absurdities. In our case, however, they had white men and strangers to deal with; and perhaps it is natural, among simple barbarians, to court admiration and applause, even though they employ no other means than exaggeration and falsehood. After a deal of talking, much more indeed than we can now remember, the governor of Keeshee begged the favour of a little rum and medicine to heal his foot, which is inclined to swell and give him pain; and requested that we would repair a _gun_ which had been deprived of its stock by fire. He then sang us a ditty in praise of elephants and their teeth, in which he was assisted by his cane-bearer, and afterwards took his leave. We have received little presents of goora nuts, salt, honey, mi-cadania butter, &c., from several of the inhabitants of the town. It was new moon on Saturday, and from the rains which have since fallen, it is likely that henceforth we shall have much wet weather.

_Tuesday, May 25th._—Some Mallams, and others who wish to accompany us to Kiáma, whither they are going for the purposes of trade, persuaded the easy-minded governor last night to defer getting us carriers till to-morrow, because, forsooth, they are not prepared to travel to-day. We are therefore obliged to await the further pleasure of these influential merchants. Thus balked in our expectations, after our luggage had all been packed up for our starting, I endeavoured to amuse myself early in the morning, by scrambling to the top of the high and steep hill which stands in the middle of the town. In my progress I disturbed a tiger-cat from his retreat among the rocks, but was rewarded for my labour by an extensive and agreeable prospect from the summit of this mountain, which I found to consist of large blocks of white marble. The town, with its double wall, perforated with holes for bowmen to shoot through, lay at my feet, and several little rural villages studded the country on every side.

The governor of Keeshee is so old and infirm, that it is evident he has not many years to live. I gave him a lotion yesterday for a swollen foot, which greatly elated one or two of his attendants, and their animated looks and gestures bespoke hearts overflowing with grateful feelings, so much so indeed, that we remarked the circumstance as being of rare occurrence. This morning, a young man, one of the number, visited us with a countenance so rueful, and spoke in a tone so low and melancholy, that his whole appearance was completely altered, insomuch that we were desirous to learn what evil had befallen him. The cause of it was soon explained by his informing us that he would be doomed to die with two companions, as soon as their governor’s dissolution should take place; and as the old man has already one foot in the grave, the poor fellow’s sadness was not to be wondered at. When this same individual and his associates observed me giving the lotion to their master yesterday, they imagined it would prolong his existence, and consequently lengthen their own; and hence arose that burst of feeling which had attracted our attention. The people here imagine we can do anything, but more especially that we are acquainted with, and can cure all the complaints and disorders to which man is liable.

The governor solicited a charm of us to-day, to preserve his house from the effects of fire, and cause him to become rich; while one of his elderly wives made a doleful complaint of having been likely to become a mother for the last thirty years, and begged piteously for medicine to promote and assist her _accouchement_. We could satisfy the old man easily enough, but his wife’s hypochondriacal complaint we conceived too dangerous to be meddled with by unprofessional hands. Poor woman, she is much to be pitied, for the odd delusion under which she has been labouring so long a time has given her considerable uneasiness, so that life itself has become a burden to her. All that we could do for her, was to soothe her mind, by telling her that her distemper was very common, and not at all dangerous, and promising, that on our return this way, should nothing transpire in her favour in the mean time, we would endeavour to remove the cause of her complaint. This comforted the aged matron exceedingly, and, in the fulness of her heart, she burst into tears of joy, dropped on her knees to express her acknowledgment, and pressed us to accept of a couple of goora nuts.

Our engaging female friends, the Falátahs, paid us a second visit this morning with bowls of milk and foorah; and in the evening a few of their male companions also came, and remained with us a considerable time. Both sexes displayed the same timid reserve in our presence, and deported themselves in the same respectful manner, that they did yesterday. It appears that the Falátahs inhabiting Acba, though very numerous, are but one family, for we are told that their ancestor separated himself from his friends, relatives, and acquaintances, and exiling himself for ever from his native country, he travelled hither with his wives and children, his flocks and herds. The sons and daughters of his descendants intermarry only among their own kindred; and they are betrothed to each other in infancy and childhood. The little that I have seen of Falátahs in Yarriba has convinced me that in all things they are much, _very_ much superior to the loveless and unsocial proprietors of the soil. Their countenances bespeak more intelligence, and their manners display less roughness and barbarism. The domestic virtues of the Falátahs are also more affectionate and endearing, and their family regulations more chaste and binding.

_Wednesday, May 26th._—We arose before sunrise this morning, and having little to do in the way of preparation for setting out, we took a hasty breakfast, and afterwards went to pay our respects to the governor, and thank him for his hospitality and goodness to us. On returning to our lodgings, we had the pleasure of receiving the morning salutation of our fair friends the Falátahs on bended knee. Resolved to have another and a last chat with the white strangers, these females had come for the purpose of offering us two calabashes of new milk. This, and former little acts of kindness, which we have received from these dark-eyed maidens, have effectually won our regard, because we know they were disinterestedly given; and the few minutes which we have had the happiness of spending in their company, and that of their countrymen, have redeemed many hours of listlessness and melancholy, which absence from our native country, and thoughts of home and friends, but too often excite in our breasts. It was therefore not without a feeling of sorrow that we bade them adieu. For my own part, when they blessed me in the name of Alla and their prophet, and implored blessings on my head, and when I gazed upon the faces of the simple-hearted and innocent females who had so piously and fervently invoked the benediction, with the consciousness of beholding them no more in this life, my heart was touched with sorrow; for of all reflections, this is certainly the most melancholy and dispiriting!

‘Ye, who have known what ’tis to dote upon

A few dear objects, will in sadness feel

Such partings break the heart they fondly hoped to heal!’

There was less of feeling and tenderness, certainly, though more words and much greater noise in taking our farewell of the two old messengers that had accompanied us from Badágry, and who, with the Jenna guides, will return homewards to-morrow. They have behaved themselves throughout to our hearts’ desire; and because they had been our companions in a long and painful journey, and because their faces had become familiarized to us, we left them behind with sincere regret.

Although we left Keeshee between six and seven in the morning, we were obliged to seat ourselves on a green turf in the outskirts of the town, and wait there till a quarter after nine before the carriers with the luggage made their appearance. Here we were joined by a Borgoo _fatàkie_, and our ears were saluted with the hoarse, dull sounds of their drum, which was played by a ragged one-eyed Yarribean long after we were on our journey. A company of merchants trading through the country has always a drummer in their pay, who walks at the head of the party, and performs on his instrument continually, be the journey ever so long, for the purpose of animating the slaves to quicken their steps.

Our route lay through a vast and lonely forest, infested by bands of robbers, and in which there is not a single human habitation. My brother went unarmed before the _fatàkie_, and travelled alone, whilst I remained behind to defend the carriers in case of necessity. He had already rode some distance in advance of us, when about twenty very suspicious-looking fellows, armed with lances and bows and arrows, suddenly made their appearance from behind the trees, where they had concealed themselves, and stood in the middle of the path before the men with the luggage, who were so terrified, that they were preparing to drop their burdens and run away. My gun being loaded, I levelled it at them, and had nearly discharged it at the leader, which intimidated them all so much, that they retreated again into the heart of the forest. When the people of Yarriba observe any one approaching them on the road, whose appearance inspires them with apprehension as to the honesty of his intentions, they fling off their loads without waiting the result of the meeting, and take to their heels without venturing to look behind them. The robbers, therefore, when they saw our people, no doubt, expected to obtain an easy booty; not anticipating to find a white man among them, nor thinking that our carriers would have made a stand.

We journeyed fifteen miles through this dreaded forest, which occupied us five hours and three-quarters, owing to the weakness of our horses and want of water, but above all to the oppressive heat of the weather, from which we all suffered more or less. We then arrived at the _Moussa_, which is a rivulet separating the kingdom of Yarriba from Borgoo. Having satisfied our thirst and bathed, we crossed the stream, and entered a little village on the northern bank, where we halted for the day.

When travelling in the bush, several men in the train of a _fatàkie_ wear a large iron ring on the thumb and middle finger. To the latter a piece of plate iron is attached, with which they make signals to each other and the _fatàkie_ when apart by clinking the rings. This method of communication is very significant, and it is understood as well, and is as promptly answered or obeyed, as our boatswain’s whistle. The collision of the rings produces a harsh, grating noise, loud enough to be heard at a considerable distance.

The mere crossing of a little stream, which a person might almost jump over, has introduced us into a country very different from Yarriba, which is inhabited by a different people, who speak a different language, profess a different religion, and whose manners, customs, amusements, and pursuits, are altogether different. The village in which we are stopping is called _Moussa_, after the river, and is distant from Keeshee, in a northerly direction, as nearly as we can guess, about sixteen miles. We occupy a large round hut, called by the natives of this country _Càtamba_, in the Haussa language _Zowley_, and in Bornou _Coozie_. In the centre of it is the trunk of a large tree, which supports the roof; it has two apertures for doors, which are opposite each other; and directly over them, suspended from the wall, are a couple of charms, written in the Arabic character on bits of paper, which are to preserve the premises from being destroyed by fire. It is now eleven P.M.; our attendants, with several of their fellow travellers, are reposing on mats and skins in various parts of the hut. Bows and arrows, and quivers ornamented with cows’ tails, together with muskets, pistols, swords, lances, and other weapons, are either hanging on the wall or resting against it. The scene is wild and singular, and quite romantic. Outside our hut it is yet more striking. There, though it rains and thunders, the remainder of the _fatàkie_, consisting of men, women, and children, are sitting on the ground in groups or sleeping near several large fires, which are burning almost close to the hut, whilst others are lying under the shelter of large spreading trees in its immediate vicinity. Their only apparel is drawn over their half naked persons; their weapons are at their sides, and their horses are grazing near them. Most of the people have gone to rest without food; yet they sleep soundly, and appear quite happy and comfortable after their day’s exertion and fatigue. One of our men fainted on the road to- day from exhaustion, and is now feverish and unwell.

_Thursday, May 27th._—There is a sweetness in the mountain air and a dewy freshness in the morning, which we experienced to-day with considerable pleasure on ascending the hills which border the northern side of the pretty little _Moussa_. When wild beasts, tired with their nightly prowling, seek retirement and repose in the lonely depths of these primeval forests, and when birds, perched on the branches of trees over our heads, warble forth their morning song, it is the time that makes up for the languid, wearisome hours in the heat of the day, when nothing can amuse and nothing interest us. It is in the earlier part of the morning, too, or in the cool of the evening, that nature can be leisurely contemplated and admired in the simple loveliness of a verdant plain, a sequestered grotto, or a rippling brook; or in the wilder and more mysterious features of her beauty in the height of a craggy precipice, the silence and gloom of vast shady woods, or when those woods are gracefully bending to the passing gale.

An hour’s ride brought us near the site of a town which was formerly peopled only by robbers. It was, however, destroyed some years ago, and its inhabitants either slain or dispersed, by order of the present spirited ruler of Kiáma, since which time the road has been less dreaded by travellers. Our path lay through a rich country, covered with luxuriant grasses and fine trees, but very little underwood could be seen. It abounds plentifully with deer and antelopes, and other wild animals of a more ferocious nature, such as the lion, the leopard, the elephant, the wild ass, &c.; but the solitary lowing of a buffalo was the only sound that we distinguished in the forest, and we had not the pleasure of meeting even with this animal.

At eleven o’clock we entered a very small and cleanly-looking village, where we halted for the day. Unfortunately its governor, with most of the people, were at work in the fields at some distance, so that we could get nothing to eat till rather late in the evening. It appears that these poor villagers are forced to supply the soldiers of their sovereign with provisions gratis, whenever business leads them so far this way from the capital; and that in order to avoid the rapacity of these men, they have built another hamlet in the woods, far out of the way of the path, whither they carry their goats, &c., and the corn of which they may not be in immediate want.

On arriving, we were introduced into a small grass hut, which smoke has changed into the most glossy black we have ever seen; and the interior of its roof is ingeniously decorated with large festoons of cobweb and dust, which must have been accumulating for a number of years. Its fetísh is a dried grasshopper, which is preserved in a little calabash; but as if this were insufficient to protect it from all the damages to which huts in this country are constantly exposed, auxiliary charms of blood and feathers are likewise stuck on the inside of the wall. At sunset, not having anything to eat, I went out into the wood with my gun, and was fortunate enough to shoot a few doves; and Paskoe, who went in a different direction, shot a Guinea hen, which made us an excellent supper. Hunger had driven back our Keeshee carriers, who were to have accompanied us to Kiáma, and therefore we have been obliged to send a messenger to Yarro, for men to supply their place. Late in the evening, the governor of the village returned from his labour in the fields, and presented us with corn and honey.

_Friday, May 28th._—In the forenoon, the musical jingling of little bells announced the approach of a body of horsemen, who in less than a minute galloped up to our hut, and saluted us one after another with a martial air, by brandishing their spears, to our great discomfiture, within a few feet of our faces. To display their horsemanship the more effectually, they caused their spirited steeds to prance and rear in our presence; and when they imagined we were convinced of their abilities, they dismounted to prostrate themselves before us, and acquaint us of the welfare of their prince. The carriers who had arrived from Kiáma, had preceded them on the road, and the whole of the men now sat down to partake of a little refreshment. It was twelve o’clock exactly when we set out on our journey, and the day being so far advanced, we wished to make all the haste possible, but the weather was extremely warm, and our horses were hardly strong enough to carry their riders, so that we were obliged, after all, to travel very slowly. At five P.M. we reached the ruins of a small town. The path was through the same forest as yesterday; but this part of it is less thickly wooded. At one place we remarked two immensely large trees, springing up almost close together; their mighty trunks and branches were twisted, and firmly clasped round each other, like giants in the act of embracing, and presented an appearance highly novel and singular. Ant-hills were numerous in the road; and a few paces from it, we observed, as we rode along, little cone-shaped mud-buildings, erected by the natives for the purpose of smelting iron ore, which is found in abundance in different parts of the country. At sunset we arrived at a village called _Benikenny_, which means, in the language of the people, ‘a cunning man;’ and found there three women waiting our arrival with corn and milk from the King of Kiáma: this was very acceptable, for we had been without food thirteen hours. We rested at Benikenny a little, and fully expected to have slept there, for the afternoon had been excessively warm, and we were all much fatigued. But our armed escort were not in the same way of thinking as ourselves, and they encouraged us to proceed to another village, which they said was at no great distance. We therefore quitted Benikenny; yet no village could be seen; and then the escort confessed that they had deceived us, in order that we might arrive at Kiáma before night. The sun had gone down on our quitting the halting-place; but the moon and stars supplied us with a cooler and more agreeable light; and we journeyed on through the forest more slowly than before. In spite of our fatigue, we could not help admiring the serenity and beauty of the evening, nor be insensible to the delicious fragrance shed around from trees and shrubs. The appearance of our warlike and romantic escort was also highly amusing. They were clad in the fashion of the East, and sought their way between the trees on our right and left; but sometimes they fell in our rear, and then again dashed suddenly by us with astonishing swiftness, looking as wild as the scenery through which their chargers bounded. The effect was rendered more imposing by the reflection of the moon-beams from their polished spears and the pieces of silver which are affixed to their caps, while the luminous fire-fly appeared in the air like rising and falling particles of flame.

My brother’s horse was unable, from weakness and exhaustion, to carry him farther than Benikenny, so that he was obliged to walk the remainder of the journey to Kiáma, which is full six miles. About eight o’clock Kiáma appeared before us, and in a few minutes we entered the city, and rode directly to the king’s house. He came out to receive us after we had been waiting outside a very short time, and welcomed us with much satisfaction and good will. He is an elderly man, almost toothless, and has a beard as white as wool. We observed nothing remarkable in his dress or appearance. His first question was concerning the health of our sovereign, and his second and last respecting our own welfare. He seemed to be exceedingly well pleased at seeing me again. We then took our leave, and were conducted by one of his slaves to a hut, or rather an assemblage of huts, adjoining his own residence. But they were not entirely to our satisfaction, for many of them had only one aperture in each, which was scarcely three feet square; so that we could not get into them excepting on our hands and knees. They were, besides, so very close and warm, that we found great difficulty in breathing; and we preferred a hut which was cooler and better ventilated, though it had the inconvenience of a thoroughfare. No sooner were we securely housed, than half a dozen of the king’s wives introduced themselves with huge calabashes of sour milk, fried pancakes, and beef stewed in rice, the first we have yet seen. Various coloured mats of excellent workmanship were afterwards brought for our use; and with thankful hearts and comfortable feelings, we lay down to rest.