Chapter I (1)

Departure from England — Arrival at Cape Coast — Anamabóo — Accra —
Badágry.

We embarked from Portsmouth on the 9th January, 1830, in the brig Alert, Tyson master, for Cape Coast Castle, where we arrived on the 22d of the following month, having had a quick, but boisterous and unpleasant passage of forty-two days. We should be sadly wanting in gratitude and every proper feeling, if we were to omit acknowledging, in this place, the truly handsome and gentlemanly treatment we experienced from Mr. George Maclean, President of the Council at Cape Coast, who had been our fellow passenger in the Alert, as well as the merchants resident there, who welcomed us on our arrival. In fact they _all_ vied with each other in making themselves agreeable, and in showing us the most marked attention; and they entertained us with a generous hospitality, which would have done honour to the boasted olden time. Here we were fortunate enough to engage old Pascoe and his wife, with Jowdie, who had been employed on the last mission, together with Ibrahim and Mina, two Bornou men, who were well acquainted with English manners, and could converse in the Hàussa language. These individuals promised to be very useful in the expedition, more especially old Pascoe, whose merits as an interpreter are unquestionable.

After remaining at Cape Coast Castle eight days, we accompanied Mr. Maclean on a visit to Mr. Hutchinson, Commandant of Anamabóo, which is about nine miles distance from the former place. This gentleman received us in a manner that does equal honour to his heart and feelings. Would that we could repay him in any way for his generous abandonment and forgetfulness of all his private concerns solely to please and amuse his guests; would that we could command language forcible and glowing enough to express the gratitude we feel for the disinterested kindness he showed us at Anamabóo. Mr. Hutchinson lives in his castle like an English baron in the feudal times, untinctured, however, by barbarism or ignorance, for the polished refinements of life have insinuated themselves into his dwelling, though it is entirely surrounded by savages, and though the charming sound of a lady’s voice is seldom or never heard in his lonely hall. His silken banners, his turreted castle, his devoted vassals, his hospitality, and even his very solitariness, all conspire to recall to the mind the manners and way of life of an old English baron in one of the most interesting periods of our history, whilst the highly chivalrous and romantic spirit of the gentleman alluded to is strictly in unison with the impression. Mr. Hutchinson has resided very many years on the coast, and is one of the few individuals that have visited the capital of Ashantee, wherein he resided eight months, and obtained a better acquaintance with the manners, customs, and pursuits of that warlike, enterprising, and original nation than any other European whatever. In the Ashantee war he took a very active part, and rendered important and valuable services to the cause he so warmly espoused.

We abode at the fort till the 4th March, when we bade adieu to our kind host, and our much-respected friend Mr. George Maclean, and embraced the opportunity of sailing in the Alert for Accra, where we expected to find a vessel to take us to Badágry, in the Bight of Benin, agreeably to our instructions.

For the last time we beg leave to express our gratitude to the worthy president and the council at Cape Coast, for their noble and feeling treatment of us, strangers, and to assure them that we shall cherish the remembrance of it as long as we live. It is conduct such as this, so flattering to one’s self-love, that makes the deepest and most lasting impression on the heart, and that clings to it when the memory of other, and perhaps more important things, has long passed away.

In two days we arrived opposite the British fort at Accra, and landed on the 7th. Here we abode with Mr. Fry, the commandant, a whole week, which afforded us ample leisure to stroll about the neighbourhood, and admire the surpassing beauty of the country. Accra is, without exception, the pleasantest and most healthy British settlement on the western coast of Africa. Its trade has perhaps suffered by the late unfortunate Ashantee war, in common with Cape Coast Castle and other places, but it is beginning to revive again. His Majesty’s brig Clinker arrived the day before us, and two days after she was joined by the Medina sloop of war, and the Black Joke.

On the 15th we embarked on board the Clinker, Lieutenant Matson commander, and having sailed direct for Badágry, we dropped anchor in the roadstead in front of that town on the 19th. My brother landed and was introduced to the chief by Mr. Brown, master of the brig, on the following day, and every thing having been arranged to our satisfaction, the luggage was safely landed on the 21st.

From Lieutenant Matson, an officer to whom we are under infinite obligations for the many courtesies and acts of kindness he showed us, we received a young man of colour named Antonio, son to the chief of Bonny, who eagerly embraced the opportunity of proceeding with us into the interior, being impressed with the notion that he should be enabled to reach his home and country by means of the Great River, or Niger.

_March 22d._—Cheered by six hearty huzzas, good-naturedly given us by the crew of the Clinker, at the desire of her gallant commander, we sailed towards the beach in one of the brig’s boats in the earlier part of the afternoon, and having been taken into a canoe that was waiting at the edge of the breakers to receive us, we were plyed over a tremendous surf, and flung with violence on the burning sands.

Wet and uncomfortable as this accident had rendered us, we had no change of linen at hand, and we walked to a small creek about the distance of a quarter of a mile from the sea-shore, where we were taken into a native canoe, and conveyed safely through an extremely narrow channel, overhung with luxuriant vegetation, into the Badágry river, which is a branch of the Lagos. It is a beautiful body of water, resembling a lake in miniature; its surface is smooth and transparent as glass, and its picturesque banks are shaded by trees of a lively verdure. We were soon landed on the opposite side, when our road lay over a magnificent plain, on which deer, antelopes, and buffaloes are often observed to feed. Numbers of men, women, and children followed us to the town of Badágry, and they made the most terrific noises at our heels, but whether these were symptoms of satisfaction or displeasure, admiration or ridicule, we could not at first understand. We were soon, however, satisfied that the latter feeling was predominant; and indeed our clothing was exceedingly grotesque, consisting of a straw hat, larger than an umbrella, a scarlet Mohammedan tobe or tunic and belt, with boots and full Turkish trowsers. So unusual a dress might well cause the people to laugh heartily; they were all evidently highly amused, but the more modest of the females, unwilling to give us any uneasiness, turned aside to conceal the titter, from which they were utterly unable to refrain.

On our way we observed various groups of people seated under the spreading branches of superb trees, vending provisions and country cloth; and on our approach many of these arose and bowed, whilst others fell on their knees before us in token of respect. We reached the dwelling which had been prepared for us about three o’clock in the afternoon, but as the day was too far advanced to visit the chief or king, we sent a messenger to inform him of our intention of paying him our respects to-morrow morning.

_March 23d._—At nine o’clock this morning, agreeably to yesterday’s promise, we visited the chief at his residence, which is somewhat more than half a mile from our own. On our entrance he was sitting on a couple of boxes, in a small bamboo apartment, from whose sides were suspended a great quantity of muskets and swords, with a few paltry umbrellas, and a couple of horses’ tails, which are used for the purpose of brushing away flies and other insects. King Adooley looked up in our faces without making any observation, and did not rise from his seat to congratulate us on our arrival. He appeared in deep reflection, and thoughtfully rested his elbow on an old wooden table, pillowing his head on his hand. One of the most venerable and ancient of his subjects was squatted at the feet of his master, smoking from a pipe of extraordinary length; whilst Lantern, his eldest son and heir apparent, was kneeling at his side, etiquette not allowing the youth to sit in presence of his father. Everything bore an air of gloom and sadness totally different from what we had been led to expect. We shook hands, but the pressure of the chief was so very faint that it was scarcely perceptible; yet, notwithstanding this apparent coldness, we seated ourselves, one on each side, without ceremony or embarrassment. The conversation was commenced on our part by inquiring after the chief’s health, which was answered only by a languid smile, and he again relapsed into his former thoughtfulness. We then displayed to the greatest advantage the presents we had brought for him from England; they were accepted, it is true, but without the slightest demonstration of pleasure or satisfaction; they were scarcely looked at, and were carried away by his attendants with real or seeming indifference. This was very mortifying, but we said not a word, though it was the easiest thing imaginable to perceive that all was not right. A reserve, the cause whereof we could not define, and a coldness towards us for which we could in no wise account, marked the conduct of the once spirited and good-natured chief of Badágry, and prepared us to anticipate various difficulties in the prosecution of our plans, which we are persuaded will require much art and influence to surmount. Adooley left us abruptly in the midst of the conversation, and did not return for some time.

Wearied at length with his long delay, we despatched a messenger to acquaint him that we were becoming impatient, and would feel obliged by his immediate return, in order to put an end to our conference, or _palàver_ as it is emphatically styled, as speedily as possible. On receiving this message the chief hastened back, and entered the apartment with a melancholy countenance, which was partially concealed behind large volumes of smoke from a tobacco-pipe which he was using. He seated himself between us as before, and gave us to understand in a very low tone of voice, that he was but just recovering from a severe illness, and from the effects of a variety of misfortunes, which had rendered him almost broken-hearted. His generals, Bombanee and Poser (mentioned in Clapperton’s Journal), and all his most able warriors, had either been slain in battle, or fallen by other violent means. The former in particular, whose loss he more particularly lamented, had been captured by the Lagos people, who were his most inveterate enemies. When this unfortunate man was taken prisoner, his right hand was immediately nailed to his head, and the other lopped off like a twig. In this manner he was paraded through the town, and exposed to the view of the people, whose curiosity being satiated, Bombanee’s head was at length severed from his shoulders, and being dried in the sun and beat to dust, was sent in triumph to the Chief of Badágry. To add to his calamities, Adooley’s house, which contained an immense quantity of gunpowder, had been blown up by accident, and destroyed all his property, consisting of a variety of presents, most of them very valuable, that had been made him by Captain Clapperton, and by European merchants and traders in slaves. The chief and his women escaped with difficulty from the conflagration; but as it was the custom to keep the muskets and other fire-arms constantly loaded, their contents were discharged into the bodies and legs of those individuals that had flocked to the spot on the first alarm. The flames spread with astonishing rapidity, notwithstanding every exertion, and ended in the destruction of a great part of the town. This accounted in some measure for the sad and grievous expression so strongly depicted on the chief’s countenance, but still another and more powerful reason had doubtless influenced him on this occasion.

On returning to our residence, a number of ‘principal men,’ as they style themselves, were introduced, to compliment us on coming to their country, although their true and only motive for visiting our quarters was the expectation of obtaining rum, which is the great object of attraction to all of them. We have been annoyed during the better part of this day by a tribe of ragged beggars, whose importunity is really disgusting; and the number of old fat-headed and pot-bellied men, and skinny, flap-eared women of the last century, has been immense. To these garrulous ladies and gentlemen have we been obliged to laugh and talk, and shake hands, and crack fingers, and bend our bodies and bow our heads, and place our hands with solemnity on our heads and breasts; make presents, and cringe, fawn, and flatter up to the present moment, which is past bed-time. We have not indeed had a moment’s relaxation from this excessive fatigue; and the consideration that we have been waited on by the chief’s eldest son has been forgotten in the mortifying inconveniences to which we have been subjected.

Had Job, amongst his other trials, been exposed to the horrors of an interminable African _palàver_, his patience must have forsaken him. For my own part, I am of opinion that I shall never be a general favourite with this ever-grinning and loquacious people. If I laugh, and laugh I most certainly must, it is done against my inclination, and consequently with a very bad grace. For the first five years of my life, I have been told that I was never even seen to smile, and since that period, Heaven knows, my merriment has been confined to particular and extraordinary occasions only. How then is it possible that I can be grinning and playing the fool from morning to night, positively without any just incentive to do so, and sweltering at the same time under a sun that causes my body to burn with intense heat, giving it the appearance of shrivelled parchment? Fortunately, these savages, for savages they most certainly are in the fullest extent of the word, cannot distinguish between real and fictitious joy; and although I was vexed at heart, and wished them all at the bottom of the Red Sea, or somewhere else, I have every reason to believe that my forced attempts to please the natives have so far been successful; and that I have obtained the reputation, which I certainly do not deserve, of being one of the pleasantest and best tempered persons in the world.

One of the Fetísh-men has just sent us a present of a duck, fully as large as an English goose; but as the fellow expects ten times its value in return, it is no proof, I think, of the benevolence of his disposition. Last night we were obliged to station armed men around our house, for the purpose of protecting our goods from the rapacity of a multitude of thieves that infest this place, and who display the greatest cunning imaginable, to ingratiate themselves into our favour. We arose unrefreshed this morning, at day-break, the noise of children crying, the firing of guns, and the discordant sound of drums and horns, preventing us from enjoying the sweetness of repose, so infinitely desirable after a long day spent in a routine of tiresome ceremony and etiquette.

_March 24th._—One of the chief’s messengers, who is a Hàussa Mallam,[2] or priest, presented himself at the door of our house this morning, followed by a large and handsome spotted sheep from his native country, whose neck was adorned with little bells, which made a pretty jingling noise. We were much prepossessed in this man’s favour by the calmness and serenity of his countenance, and the modesty, or rather timidity of his manners. He was dressed in the Hàussa costume, viz., cap, tobe, trousers, and sandals. He wore four large silver rings on his thumb, and his left wrist was ornamented with a solid silver bracelet. This is the only individual that has yet visited us purely with disinterested motives, as all the others make it a practice to beg whenever they favour us with their company. But the Mallam, it is to be understood, is a Mussulman, and it is the fast of the Rhamadan, so that he is forbidden by his creed either to eat or drink from the rising to the setting of the sun.

A Falatah residing in the town has agreed to supply us with cow’s milk every morning, as long as we may have occasion to remain; he is likewise a Mohammedan; and imitating the example of the Mallam, he scrupulously adheres to the rigorous precepts of his religion.

The chief’s eldest son has been with us the greatest part of to-day. The manners of this young man are reserved, but respectful; he is a great admirer of the English, and has obtained a smattering of their language. Although his appearance is extremely boyish, he has already three wives, and is the father of two children. His front teeth are filed to a point after the manner of the Lagos people, but notwithstanding this disadvantage, his features bear less marks of ferocity than we have observed in the countenance of any one of his countrymen, while his general deportment is infinitely more pleasing and humble than theirs. When asked, whether if it were in his power to do so, he would injure us two, or any European that might hereafter visit Badágry, he made no reply, but silently approached our seat, and falling on his knees at our feet, he pressed me with eagerness to his soft naked bosom, and affectionately kissed my hand. I thought that language and expression would not have been half so eloquent as this.

We have heard to-day that peace has been established between Porto Novo and Badágry. The messenger that brought this agreeable news has presented Adooley with three slaves, from his master, the chief of the former state, as a token that it is to be lasting. This distracted country is ever at war with her neighbours, and consequently is always in a state of agitation and poverty. Provisions are from the same cause extremely scarce and dear.

Since our conference with the chief on Tuesday we have learned with surprise and sorrow, that a party of the populace have expressed themselves decidedly hostile to our projects, and that its leaders are continually with Adooley, using all their influence, and exercising all their cunning, in order to awaken his slumbering jealousy. They endeavour to persuade him to demand, ere he grants us leave to pass through his country, a sum of money, which they are all aware it is not in our power to pay, and therefore, they imagine we shall be compelled to abandon the undertaking. The first intimation we received of the effect of these insinuations on the mind of the chief was brought us this morning by one who pronounces himself to be on ‘our side.’ This man assured us with an ominous visage, that Adooley had declared in the hearing of all the people, that the coat we had given him was intended for a boy, and not a man; it was therefore unworthy his acceptance as a king, and he considered that we meant to insult him. The coat alluded to by Adooley is indeed extremely old-fashioned, and belonged to a surgeon in the navy about twenty years ago, notwithstanding which it is now almost as good as new, and was made very showy by the addition of a pair of tarnished gold epaulets. Nor can anything be clearer than that an enemy of ours has been striving to render the chief discontented and mistrustful, since nothing was so gladly received as this very coat two days ago. To counteract the efforts of the malicious, we have been unusually busy to-day in sounding the disposition of those, who, we are inclined to believe, from the fondness they evince for our rum, are favourable to our intentions and devoted to our interests.

Two mulattoes reside in the town, one of whom, by name Hooper, acts as interpreter to Adooley, and shares a good deal of his confidence. He was born at Cape Coast Castle in 1780, and was for many years a soldier in the African corps. His father was an Englishman, and he boasts of being a British subject. He is excessively vain of his origin; yet he is the most confirmed drunkard alive, always getting intoxicated before breakfast, and remaining in a soaking state all day long. This does not, however, make him regardless of his personal interests, to which, on the contrary, he is ever alive, and indeed sacrifices every other feeling. The other mulatto can read and write English tolerably well, having received his education at Sierra Leone; he is a slave to Adooley, and is almost as bad as Hooper as to drinking. These political advisers of the chief we have had little difficulty in bribing over to our interests: we have likewise been tampering with several native chiefs, apparently with equal success. Unfortunately, every one styles himself a great and powerful man, and old Hooper himself calls a host of ragged scoundrels, ‘noblemen and gentlemen.’ Each of these he advises and conjures us to conciliate with presents, and especially spirituous liquors, in order to do away any evil impression they may secretly have received, and obtain their suffrages, though it should be at the expense of half the goods in our possession. There is hardly any knowing who is monarch here, or even what form of government prevails. Besides the king of kings himself, the redoubtable Adooley, four fellows assume the title of royalty; namely, the kings of Spanish Town, of Portuguese Town, of English Town, and of French Town—Badágry being divided into four districts, bearing the names of the European nations just mentioned. This evening we received an invitation from the former of these chieftains, who by all accounts was originally the sole governor of the country, until his authority was wrested from him by a more powerful hand. He now lives in retirement, and subsists by purchasing slaves and reselling them to Spanish and Portuguese traders. In him we found a meek and venerable old man, of respectable appearance. He was surrounded by a number of men and boys, his household slaves, who were all armed with pistols, daggers, muskets, cutlasses, swords, &c., the manufacture of various European countries. In the first place he assured us, that nothing could give him more pleasure than to welcome us to Badágry; and he very much wondered that we had not visited him before. If we had a present to give him, he said, he would thank us, but if we had not, still he would thank us. A table was then brought out into the court before the house, whereon decanters, and glasses, with a burning liquor obtained from the Portuguese, were placed. In one corner of the yard was a little hut, not more than two feet in height, wherein had been placed a fetísh figure, to preserve the chief from any danger or mischief, which our presence might otherwise have entailed upon him. A portion of the spirit was poured into one of the glasses, and from it emptied into each of the others, and then drunk by the attendant that had fetched it from the house. This is an old custom, introduced, no doubt, to prevent masters from being poisoned by the treachery of their slaves. As soon as the decanters had been emptied of their contents, other ardent spirits were produced; but as my brother imagined that fetísh-water had been mingled with it, we simply took about a tea-spoonful into our mouths, and privately ejected it on the ground. The old chief promised to return our visit to-morrow; and lifting up his hands and eyes to Heaven, like a child in the attitude of prayer, he invoked the Almighty to preserve and bless us (for this was the interpretation of his expressions). We then saluted him in the usual manner, and returned, well pleased, to our own habitation.

If one may be allowed to form an opinion of the population of Badágry, from the vast number of sellers he meets with, or rather if the number of buyers bears any proportion to them, the town must be wonderfully populous, for though the old chief’s residence is above a mile and a half from ours, people were found vending a variety of articles at every step of the way.

We are most anxious to proceed on our journey, but the chief Adooley evades our solicitations to depart under the most frivolous and absurd pretences. He asserts that his principal reason for detaining us here, against our inclination, is the apprehension he entertains for our safety, the road not being considered in a good state. Under this impression he has despatched a messenger to Jenna, to ascertain if the affairs of that country warrant his sending us thither. The old king of Jenna, who it will be recollected behaved so kindly to Captain Clapperton’s last mission, is dead; and although a successor has been appointed to fill his place, he is not yet arrived from Katunga. This being the case, no one will be at Jenna to receive us. Meantime the rainy season is fast approaching, as is sufficiently announced by repeated showers and occasional tornadoes; and what makes us still more desirous to leave this abominable place, is the fact (as we have been told) that a sacrifice of no less than three hundred human beings, of both sexes and all ages, is shortly to take place. We often hear the cries of many of these poor wretches; and the heart sickens with horror at the bare contemplation of such a scene as awaits us, should we remain here much longer. We, therefore, can only wish, that if such is to be the case, we may not be compelled to witness this bloody abomination.

_March 25th._—We were awoke this morning by the warbling of a variety of small birds, which, perched on the branches of the beautiful trees surrounding our house, serenade us so charmingly that we can never close our eyes after day-break; in fact, it would be a shame in us to do so whilst we can listen to melody so truly enchanting. Shortly after the sun rises our house is full of visitors; and from that time till evening we resign ourselves very complacently to a species of punishment which is, I fancy, less tolerable than purgatory. After cracking fingers a hundred times, and grinning as often, we were informed this forenoon, that the chief’s messenger had returned from Jénna; but, for some reason at present unknown to us, the man was almost immediately sent back; and we are told, that we cannot quit Badágry until he again makes his appearance. It is the custom in this place, that when a man cannot pay his respects in person to another, he sends a servant with a sword or cane, in the same manner as a gentleman delivers his card in England. We have received a great number of compliments to-day in this fashion; and it is almost superfluous to say that a cane or sword is at all times a more welcome and agreeable visitor than its owner would have been.

We had not finished breakfast this morning before Hooper introduced himself for his accustomed glass of spirits, to prevent him, according to his own account, from getting sick. He took the opportunity of informing us, that it would be absolutely necessary to visit the ‘noblemen’ that had declared themselves ‘on our side.’ As we strove to court popularity and conciliate these vagabonds by every means in our power, we approved of Hooper’s counsel, and went in the first place to the house of the late _General_ Poser, which is at present under the superintendence of his head man. Him we found squatting indolently on a mat, and several old people were holding a conversation with him. As the death of Poser is not generally known to the people, it being concealed from them for fear of exciting a commotion in the town, for he was universally loved and respected, we were not permitted even to mention his name, and the steward set us the example by prudently confining his conversation to the necessity of making him a present proportionable to his expectations and the dignity of his situation. Muskets and other warlike instruments were suspended from the sides of the apartment, and its ceiling was decorated with fetíshes and Arab texts in profusion. Gin and water were produced, and partaken of with avidity by all present, more especially by the two Mulattoes that had attended us, which being done, the head-man wished the ‘Great Spirit’ to prosper us in all our undertakings, and told us not to forget his present by any means. We shortly afterwards paid our respects, and quitted the apartment with feelings of considerable satisfaction; for its confined air was so impure, that a longer stay, to say the least of it, would have been highly unpleasant. As it was, we had consumed so much time in Poser’s house, that we found it necessary to alter our intention of visiting the other chiefs; and therefore resolved to pay our respects to Adooley, whom we had not seen for two days. Accordingly we repaired immediately to his residence, and were welcomed to it with much better grace than on any previous occasion.

The chief was eating an undrest onion, and seated on an old table, dangling his legs underneath it with a vacant thoughtlessness of manner, which our abrupt intrusion somewhat dissipated. He informed us of his intention of sending us on our journey on the day after to-morrow, when he expected that the people of Jenna would be in a suitable condition to receive us. He was full of good nature, and promised to make my brother a present of a horse, which he had brought with him from Soccatóo on the former expedition; he added that he would sell another to me; and that he most particularly wished to examine the goods we intended taking with us into the ‘bush,’ as the uncleared country is called, in order that he might satisfy himself we had nothing objectionable amongst them. Having expressed our thanks to Adooley for his well-timed present, and agreed to the conditions he proposed, we all partook of a little spirit and water, which soon made us the best friends in the universe. During this palàver, the chief’s sister and two of his wives were ogling at us, and giggling, until the approach of the chief of English town and the rest of our party put a sudden stop to their entertainment, on which they presently left the apartment. These men came to settle a domestic quarrel, which was soon decided by the chief, who, after receiving the usual salutation of dropping on the knees, with the face to the earth, chatted and laughed immoderately. This was considered by us as a happy omen. Very little ceremony is observed by the meanest of the people toward their sovereign. They converse with him with as little reserve as if he were no better than themselves, while he pays as much attention to their complaints as to those of the principal people of the country. I should think that Adooley is not entirely destitute of the virtues of hospitality, for we observed with pleasure that the remainder of his onions were divided equally amongst the chiefs who had come to visit him, and were received by them with marks of the highest satisfaction.

This afternoon a herald proclaimed the approach to our habitation of the venerable chief of Spanish Town, with a long suite of thirsty followers. The old man’s dress was very simple, consisting only of a cap and turban, with a large piece of Manchester cotton flung over his right shoulder, and held under his left arm. This is infinitely more graceful and becoming in the natives, than the most showy European apparel, in any variety of which, indeed, they generally look highly ridiculous. After we had made him and all his attendants nearly tipsy, the old chief began to be very talkative and amusing, continuing to chat without intermission for a considerable time, not omitting to whisper occasionally to the interpreter, by no means to forget, after his departure, reminding us of the present we had promised him, for it is considered the height of rudeness to mention any thing of the kind aloud in his presence. Our rum had operated so cheerily upon his followers in the yard, that fat and lean, old and young, commenced dancing, and continued performing the most laughable antics, till they were no longer able to stand. It amused us infinitely to observe these creatures, with their old solemn, placid-looking chief at their head, staggering out at the door-way; we were in truth but too happy to get rid of them at so cheap a rate. Hooper shortly afterwards came with a petition from twelve ‘gentlemen’ of English Town, for the sum of a hundred and twenty dollars, to be divided amongst them; and having no resource, we were compelled to submit to the demand of these rapacious scoundrels.

Late in the evening we received the threatened visit from Adooley, who came to examine the contents of our boxes. He was borne in a hammock by two men, and was dressed in an English linen shirt, a Spanish cloak or mantle, with a cap, turban, and sandals. His attendants were three half- dressed little boys, who, one by one, placed themselves at their master’s feet, as they are in the habit of doing. One of them carried a long sword, another a pistol, and the third a kind of knapsack, filled with tobacco. We presented the chief with brandy, equal in strength to spirits of wine; and he swallowed a large quantity of it with exquisite pleasure. The boys were permitted to drink a portion of the liquor every time that it was poured into a glass for Adooley; but though it was so very strong, it produced no grimace, nor the slightest distortion of countenance in these little fellows. The fondness of the natives, or rather their passion for strong waters, is astonishing, and they are valued entirely in proportion to the intoxicating effects they occasion. Adooley smoked nearly all the while he remained in our house. As each box was opened, however, he would take the pipe slowly from his mouth, as if perfectly heedless of what was going forward; and from the couch whereon he was reclining, regard with intense curiosity each article as it was held out to his observation. Everything that in his opinion demanded a closer examination, or more properly speaking, every thing he took a fancy to, was put into his hands at his own request; but as it would be grossly impolite to return it after it had been soiled by his fingers, with the utmost _nonchalance_ the chief delivered it over to the care of his recumbent pages, who carefully secured it between their legs. Adooley’s good taste could not of course be questioned; and it did not much surprise, though it grieved us, to observe a large portion of almost every article in the boxes speedily passing through his hands into those of his juvenile minions. Nothing seemed unworthy his acceptance, from fine scarlet cloth to a child’s farthing whistle; in fact he requested a couple of these little instruments to amuse himself with in retirement! And although he has received guns, ammunition, and a variety of goods to the amount of nearly three hundred ounces[3] of gold, he is so far from being satisfied that he is continually grumbling forth his discontent. Gratitude is unknown both to him and his subjects; the more one gives them, the more pressing are their importunities for other favours. The very food that one eats and the clothes that he wears are begged in so fawning a tone and manner, as to create disgust and contempt at the first interview.

It was nearly midnight before Adooley arose from his seat to depart, when he took his leave, with broad cloth, and cottons, pipes, snuff- boxes, and knives, paper, ink, whistles, &c. &c., and even some of our books, so avaricious is this Chief of Badágry.

_March 26th._—We arose early this morning for the purpose of arranging some trifling matters, and taking our breakfast in quietness and comfort; but we had scarcely sat down when our half-naked grinning acquaintances entered to pay us the compliments of the day. Notwithstanding our chagrin, so ludicrous was the perpetual bowing and scraping of these our friends, in imitation of Europeans, that we could not forbear laughing in good earnest. Our rum, which had been kindly supplied us by Lieutenant Matson, we are happy to say, is now nearly all consumed, and the number of our general visitors has diminished in exact proportion to its decrease; so that we are beginning to feel the enjoyment of an hour or two’s quiet in the course of a day, which is a luxury we could hardly have anticipated. The chief sent his son this morning to us, requesting a few needles and some small shot. We could ill spare the latter, but it would be impolitic to refuse his urgent solicitations, whatever may be their tendency.

The horses promised by Adooley have been sent for us to examine. They appear strong and in good condition; and if they play us no wicked pranks in the ‘bush,’ no doubt they will be eminently serviceable.

This evening Poser’s head man, who we understand is one of the Chief’s first captains, returned our visit of yesterday, followed by a multitude of friends and retainers. He had been determined, I believe, before he left home, to be in an ill-humour with us, and perhaps he had treated himself with an extra dram for the occasion. This great bully introduced himself into our dwelling,—his huge round face inflamed with scorn, anger and ‘potations deep.’ He drank with even more avidity than his countrymen, but the liquor produced no good impression on him, serving rather to increase his dissatisfaction and choler. He begged everything he saw,—and when we had gratified him to the best of our power, he began to be very abusive and noisy. He said he was convinced we had come into the country with no good intentions, and accused us of deceit and insincerity in our professions; or in plainer terms, that we had been guilty of a direct falsehood in stating that we had no other motive for undertaking the journey than to recover the papers of Mr. Park at Yáoorie. He was assured that we were afraid to tell the true reason for leaving our own country. We withstood his invectives with tolerable composure, and the disgraceful old fellow left us in a pet about half an hour after his arrival.

It is really a discouraging reflection that notwithstanding the sacrifices we have made of all private feeling and personal comfort for the purpose of conciliating the good opinion of the people here,—the constant fatigue and inconvenience to which we have been subjected,—the little arts we have practised,—the forced laughter,—the unnatural grin,—the never-ending shaking of hands, &c. &c., besides the dismal noises and unsavoury smells to which our organs have been exposed, still some scoundrels are to be found hardened against us by hatred and prejudice, and so ungrateful for all our gifts and attentions, as to take a delight in poisoning the minds of the people against us by publicly asserting that we are English spies, and make use of other inventions equally false and malicious. Pitiable, indeed, must the lot of that man be, who is obliged to drag on a year of existence in so miserable a place as this. Nevertheless we are in health and spirits, and perhaps feel a secret pride in being able to subdue our rising dissatisfaction, and in overcoming difficulties which at a first glance seemed insurmountable. By the blessing of Heaven we shall proceed prosperously in our undertaking, for in the Divine goodness do we alone repose all our confidence and hopes of success. We may say that pleasure and enjoyment have accompanied us hither. The clearness of the sky is pleasant, and its brilliancy,—the softness of the moon—the twinkling brightness of the stars, and the silence of night,—the warbling and the flight of birds, the hum of insects, and the varied and luxuriant aspect of beautiful Nature, are all charming to us. And what on earth can be more soothing or delightful than thoughts of home and kindred, and anticipations of a holier and more glorious existence? These are true pleasures of which the barbarians cannot deprive us.

To-day the fast of the Rhamadan ends; and to-morrow will be held as a holiday by the Mohammedans of the place.

_Saturday, March 27th._—The noise and jargon of our guests pursue us even in sleep, and our dreams are disturbed by fancied palàvers which are more unpleasant and vexatious, if possible, in their effects, than real ones. Early this morning we were roused from one of these painful slumbers, to listen to the dismal yell of the hyena, the shrill crowing of cocks, the hum of night-flies and mosquitoes, and the hoarse croaking of frogs, together with the chirping of myriads of crickets and other insects, which resounded through the air as though it had been pierced with a thousand whistles.

Just after sunrise, two Mohammedans arrived at our house with an invitation for us to accompany them to the spot selected for the performance of their religious rites and observances. This being a novelty, we embraced the proposal with pleasure, and followed the men to the distance of about a mile from our house. Here we observed a number of their countrymen sitting in detached groups, actively employed in the duties of lustration and ablution. It was a bare space of ground, edged with trees, and covered with sand. The Mussulmen were obliged to bring water with them in calabashes. Seated in a convenient situation, underneath the spreading branches of a myrtle-tree, without being seen, we could observe all their actions. But a number of boys soon intruded themselves upon our privacy, and to say the truth, we were more amused by the artlessness and playfulness of their manners than with all the grave mummery of the Mohammedan worshippers. Groups of people were continually arriving at the spot, and these were welcomed to it by an occasional flourish of music from a native clarionet, &c. They were clad in all their finery, their apparel being as gaudy as it was various. The _coup-d’œil_ presented by no means an uninteresting spectacle. Loose tobes, with caps and turbans, striped and plain, red, blue, and black, were not unpleasingly contrasted with the original native costume of figured cotton, thrown loosely over the shoulders, and immense rush hats. Manchester cloths, of the most glaring patterns, were conspicuous amongst the crowd; but these were cast in the shade by scarfs of green silk, ornamented with leaves and flowers of gold, and aprons covered with silver spangles. Very young children appeared bending under the weight of clothes and ornaments; whilst boys of maturer years carried a variety of offensive weapons. The Turkish scimitar, the French sabre, the Portuguese dagger, confined in a silver case, all gleamed brightly; and heavy cutlasses, with rude native knives, were likewise exhibited, half devoured by cankering rust. Clumsy muskets and fowling-pieces, as well as Arab pistols, were also handled with delight by the joyful Mussulmen. In number the religionists were about a hundred and fifty. Not long after our arrival, they formed themselves into six lines, and having laid aside many of their superfluous ornaments, and a portion of their clothing, they put on the most sedate countenances, and commenced their devotional exercises in a spirit of seriousness and apparent fervor, worthy a better place and a more amiable creed. In the exterior forms of their religion, at least, the Mussulmen here are complete adepts, as this spectacle has convinced us; and the little we have seen of them has led us to form a very favourable opinion of their general temperance and sobriety. The ceremony was no sooner concluded, than muskets, carbines, and pistols were discharged on all sides; the clarionet again struck up a note of joy, and was supported by long Arab drums, strings of bells, and a solitary kettle-drum. The musicians, like the ancient minstrels of Europe, were encouraged by trifling presents from the more charitable of the multitude. All seemed cheerful and happy; and on leaving them, several, out of compliment I suppose, discharged their pieces at our heels; and were evidently delighted with themselves, with us, and the whole world. In the path we met a fellow approaching the scene of innocent dissipation, clothed most fantastically in a flannel dress, and riding on the back of what we were informed was a wooden horse. He was surrounded by natives of all ages, who were laughing most extravagantly at the unnatural capering of the thing, and admiring the ingenuity of its contrivance. The figure itself was entirely concealed with cloth, which rendered it impossible to discover by what agency it moved. Some years ago, I saw a monster something similar to it with a company of mountebanks in a town in the west of England, which, amongst its other properties, used to swallow children; and in all probability, this ‘wooden horse’ is constructed on a similar principle. Its head was covered with red cloth; and a pair of sheep’s ears answered the purpose for which they were intended tolerably well. Yet, on the whole, though it was easy to perceive that a horse was intended to be represented by it, the figure was clumsily enough executed. As soon as this party had joined the individuals assembled near the place of worship, a startling shriek of laughter testified the tumultuous joy of the wondering multitude. The sun shone out resplendently on the happy groups of fancifully-dressed persons, whose showy, various-coloured garments, and sooty skin, contrasted with the picturesque and lovely appearance of the scenery, produced an unspeakably charming effect. The foliage exhibited every variety and tint of green, from the sombre shade of the melancholy yew to the lively verdure of the poplar and young oak. For myself, I was delighted with the agreeable ramble; and imagined that I could distinguish from the notes of the songsters of the grove, the swelling strains of the English skylark and thrush, with the more gentle warbling of the finch and linnet. It was indeed a brilliant morning, teeming with life and beauty; and recalled to my memory a thousand affecting associations of sanguine boyhood, when I was thoughtless and happy. The barbarians around me were all cheerful and full of joy. I have heard that, like sorrow, joy is contagious, and I believe that it is, for it inspired me with a similar gentle feeling.

The 27th of March in this place is what Mayday is in many country places in England, and it strongly reminded us of it. But here unfortunately there are no white faces to enliven us: and a want of the lovely complexion of our beautiful countrywomen, tinged with its ‘celestial red,’ is severely felt; and so is the total absence here of that golden chain of kindness which links them to the ruder associates of their festive enjoyments. By and bye, doubtless, familiarity with black faces will reconcile me to them; but at present I am compelled to own that I cannot help feeling a very considerable share of aversion towards their jetty complexions, in common, I believe, with most strangers that visit this place.

Owing to the holiday, which is equally prized and enjoyed by Mohammedan and Pagan, our visiters to-day have been almost exclusively confined to a party of Hàussa Mallams, who entered our dwelling in the forenoon, perfumed all over with musk, more for the purpose of gratifying their vanity by displaying their finery before us, than of paying us the compliments of the day, which was avowedly the sole object of their intrusion. One or two of them were masticating the goora nut; and others had had their lips, teeth, and finger nails stained red. Each of the Mallams was attended by a well-dressed little boy of agreeable countenance, who acted as page to his master, and was his _protégé_. Neither of the men would eat or drink with us; yet whilst they were in our company, they seemed cheerful and good-humoured, and were communicative and highly intelligent. In answer to our questions, they informed us that two rivers enter the Quorra or ‘Great River’ at Funda, one of which is called the _Coodoonia_ and the other the _Tshadda_ (from the lake Tshad)—that a schooner might sail from Bornou to Funda on the latter river without difficulty—that Funda is only twenty-four hours’ pull from Benin; and twenty-nine days’ journey from Bornou. At the close of a long and to us rather interesting conversation, our visiters expressed themselves highly gratified with their reception, and left the hut to repair to their own habitations.

These men, though slaves to Adooley, are very respectable, and are never called on by their master except when required to go to war, supporting themselves by trading for slaves which they sell to Europeans. They wore decent Nouffie tobes, Arab red caps, and Hàussa sandals; and both in their manners and conversation, the Mallams are infinitely superior to the ungentle and malignant natives of Badágry.

_Sunday, March 28th._—Luckily the inhabitants of this place consider this as a holiday; and their singing, dancing, and savage jollity have possessed greater charms for them than an empty rum cask, though it be backed by two white faces. With a trifling exception or so, we have in consequence been unmolested by our visiters of the everlasting grin and unwearied tongue during the day. This happy circumstance has afforded us opportunity and ample leisure for spending the Sabbath in a manner most agreeable to our feelings,—by devoting the greater part of it to the impressive duties of our Divine religion—in humbling ourselves before the mercy-seat of the great Author of our being, and imploring Him to be our refuge and guardian, to shield us from every danger, and render our undertakings hopeful and prosperous.