Chapter I: Front Matter

FOOD AND FLAVOR

FOOD AND FLAVOR

A GASTRONOMIC GUIDE
TO HEALTH AND GOOD LIVING

BY

HENRY T. FINCK

"_The destiny of nations depends upon what and
how they eat._"

_Brillat-Savarin._

NEW YORK--THE CENTURY CO.
1913

Copyright, 1913, by
THE CENTURY CO.

_Published, April, 1913_

TO
LUTHER BURBANK
AND
HARVEY W. WILEY
THE TWO MEN
WHO HAVE DONE MOST
TO MAKE OUR DAILY FOOD
PALATABLE AND HONEST

CONTENTS

PAGE

I UNGASTRONOMIC AMERICA 3

Mark Twain's Patriotic Palate--Food Missionaries in the Far
West--Are Women to Blame?--The Danger in our Food--Why the
Candy was not Eaten--Dr. Wiley's Poison Squad--Condiments
versus Chemical Preservatives--Scotched, not Killed.

II VITAL IMPORTANCE OF FLAVOR 40

Sensual indulgence as a duty--Gladstone and Fletcher--The
harm done by soft Foods--Epicurean delights from plain
Food--How flavor helps the Stomach--An Amazing Blunder--A
new Psychology of Eating.

III OUR DENATURED FOODS 65

Foul Fowl--The French way versus the American--Why do we
Eat Poultry?--Is cold storage a Blessing?--Spoiling the
American Oyster--"Smoked" ham, bacon and fish--Flavor in
Butter--Sweet Butter versus Salt.

IV THE SCIENCE OF SAVORY COOKING 117

Desirable raw foods--Flavor as the guiding principle--The
Philosophy of soup-making and eating--Wherein lies the
value of vegetables?--Broiling, roasting, baking,
frying--Combining the flavors of meats and vegetables--Savory
food for everybody--Meat-eating of the future--The folly
of vegetarianism--When to use condiments and sauces--Cook
books.

V A NOBLE ART 152

The social caste of cooks--Royalty in the kitchen--Rossini,
Carême and Paderewski--Looking down on others--Does cooking
Pay?

VI THE FUTURE OF COOKING 171

School girls like it--Boys and soldiers as cooks--Traveling
cooking schools--English school dinners--Progress in
America--Teaching the art of eating--Real epicurism is
economical--Fireless cookers--Private versus community
kitchens--Scientific electric cooking--Importance of
variety in foods.

VII FRENCH SUPREMACY 210

Kitchen alchemy--Seven hundred soups--Savory
sauces--Profitable poules de Brese--Digestive value of
sour salads--Escarole, tomatoes, artichokes, alligator
pears--Vegetables as a separate course--Paris
restaurants--Russian and American influences--Provincial
local flavors--The world's greatest market places--Model
market gardens--Mushrooms and truffles--Training trees for
fancy fruits--Bread crust versus crumb--How the best butter
is made--Cheese as an appetizer.

VIII EPICUREAN ITALY 309

The cradle of modern cookery--Olive oil and Sardines--Fried
fish and fritto misto--Macaroni, the real staff of
life--Cooked cheese in place of meat--Birds, tomato paste
and garlic.

IX GERMAN AND AUSTRIAN DELICACIES 339

A cosmopolitan cuisine--Delicatessen stores--Sausages and
smoked ham--Live fish brought to the kitchen--Game and
Geese--In a Berlin market--Vienna bread and Hungarian
flour--German menus on sea and land--German, Swiss and
Dutch cheeses.

X BRITISH SPECIALTIES 394

Thackeray's little sermon--Dr. Johnson and Samuel Pepys--The
Roast beef of old England--Southdown mutton--Wiltshire
bacon--Fair play for pigs--Grouse and grilled sole--Covent
Garden market scenes--Marmalades, jams and
breakfasts--Restaurants, cakes, and plum pudding.

XI GASTRONOMIC AMERICA 452

Sweet corn and corn bread--Griddle cakes and maple
syrup--Apple pie and cranberries--Turkeys, guinea fowl and
game--Lobsters, scallops, crabs, and fishes--Vegetables
steadily gaining ground--The fruit-eaters' paradise
Governmental gastronomy--Burbank's new fruits and
vegetables.

XII COMMERCIAL VALUE OF FLAVOR 522

Palatability decides permanence--Eating with the
eyes--School girls as pure food experts--Pennywise dealers
and pineapples--Successful peach-growers--Fortunes from
bananas and oranges--Melons, honey and flavoring
extracts--Opportunities for women--Feeding flavor into
food--Farmers, middlemen, and parcel post.

XIII GASTRONOMIC VALUE OF ODORS 559

Sweet, sour, salt and bitter--A comedy of errors--How
flavor differs from fragrance--Important functions of
the nose--Educating the sense of smell--Coffee, tea and
temperance.

INDEX 583

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
Fred Harvey 6

A Matter for the Health Department 20

Harvey W. Wiley 26

The Old-fashioned Way 29

Horace Fletcher 46

A French Chef's Culinary Alchemy 54

An American Quick-Lunch 57

How they do it in France 75

Where Smoked Hams were Suspended from the Rafters 98

Before Breakfast in the Garden 119

Chafing Dish Cooking 149

A fifteenth-century Kitchen in France 162

Cooking Class at the Wadleigh High School 172

Fireless Cooking in Hawaii 193

The Tour d'Argent and Frederic Delair 217

Carême 218

Boeuf à la Mode 246

Coming to Market, Brittany 263

The World's Greatest Market Place 268

Paris Market Porters 271

Halles Centrales 273

A bit of the great Paris market 276

Macaroni Drying 322

Deer in German Forest 369

Menus on a German Steamer 382-384

The Boar 420

"Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese" 446

London Bill of Fare 448-449

The Sugar Bush 465

Brillat-Savarin 474

New York down town Lunch Menu 484-485

Luther Burbank 510

Burbank's Spineless Cactus 518

Chinese Canal 556

Javanese Tea-Picker and Porter 578