Chapter D: A Covered Memorandum Pad

Secure a small pad. Plan covers, as described in B, which shall project about one-eighth of an inch in each direction beyond the pad. Plan to have the space between them about ⅜ of an inch more than the thickness of the pad. When the covers are finished, paste the pad firmly to the inside of one cover. If desired, loops of vellum to hold the pencil may be pasted on the side of the pad, as described in Problem I.

Problem VI

FOLDING CHECKERBOARD[3]

TIME: 6 hours.

MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum, squared paper.

This checkerboard (Plate XXI) is planned with squares ¾” in size, and of these there should be 8 on each side alternating dark and light. By making a foundation 7½” square, it gives a margin of ¾” on all sides, resulting not only in a satisfactory appearance, but providing a place for extra checkers. This board folds through the center and is small enough to be easily carried in the pocket. The illustration is intended to show the construction to the teacher. Such a drawing should not be attempted by the pupils whose efforts should be confined to simple sketches of the necessary pieces as in the other problems.

Cut two pieces of newsboard 3⅝” strong × 7½”, and a piece of vellum about 9” square. It will be observed that the width of the newsboard is less than half the length in order to allow a space between the two pieces of newsboard without which the completed board would not close.

On the back side of the piece of vellum mark off in heavy lines the positions of the two pieces of newsboard and allow ¼” or ³⁄₁₆” space between them. Paste the newsboard to the vellum as already described, cut the corners and paste the edges. A strip of vellum 2” × 7” should be pasted to cover the space between the two pieces of newsboard and extend well onto them.

[3] From “War Time Occupations.”

The paper used for lining may be prepared in one of several ways, either by machine or by hand, and may be in one piece or two. The former is less likely to be confusing. The easiest and quickest method is to have the squares printed in dark ink on white or light gray paper of good quality, and fairly tough. The use of linoleum is suggested as one method of printing squares, or a line plate may be made, the squares printed from it and finished linings for the checkerboards furnished to those who are making them. The light squares may be left as they are or may be colored with water color, crayon, or oils. All the outside squares should be lined in, either when printed or afterward by hand. A border line about ¼” outside the squares adds very much to the general appearance.

If all the markings and coloring must be done by hand, paper commercially ruled into ¼” squares is recommended. This secures accuracy, and saves much tiresome ruling. Three such spaces on each side form a ¾ inch square and when the checkerboard is laid off by small dots on outside lines, proceed to color alternate squares by one of the following methods:

A. With soft pencil darken alternate squares leaving others of the original color. Begin with the upper row, and take successive rows downward. Across the paper lay a rule just below the lower edge of the squares to be darkened. With the pencil make vertical strokes only, using the side of the pencil to give an even surface free from ridges. Be careful with the lines at the right and left edges that they do not extend into the adjoining space. The edge of the rule will stop the strokes at the right place at the bottom and they should not extend quite to the top as this can be adjusted later. When all rows are finished, turn paper around so that what was top is now bottom, and complete squares by the same method.

B. Instead of pencil, colored crayons may be used in the same manner as already described.

C. Crayons of two colors may be used in alternate squares, or one color and a black pencil. Orange and black or red and black are pleasing combinations.

D. Ink or water may be applied with a brush.

When completed place the “board” so that a dark square is in the upper left and lower right corners respectively, and cut open vertically, removing about ¼” from the center two halves. If no space is left, the paper soon cracks in folding; if too little space is left, the edges soon turn and later become ”dog-eared“; if too much is left, it is confusing to the players, as theoretically there should be no space at all. Paste these pieces to each half of the cover, placing them about ¼” apart, and dry flat under weight.

When thoroughly dry, the inner surface should be varnished with shellac or valspar to give stability to the color. Otherwise, it soon becomes rubbed and the appearance, if not the utility, of the board is spoiled. One coat is sufficient to hold the color, but if a polished surface is desired two are needed.

The question of coating the outside with shellac or other polish is an open one, and may be decided to suit the individual taste.

It is sometimes desirable to show that an article is the product of the schoolroom, and in this case a neatly printed label with a space for the pupil’s name, etc., may be pasted to the outside.

If larger boards are desired make the squares one inch in size leaving ¾” margin. The foundation consists of two pieces of newsboard, each 4⅝” × 9½” and the vellum for covering should be 11½” square. The process of assembling is like that used in the small board.

CHECKERS

I. Dowels. Checkers may be made from dowels ⅝” or ¾” for small checkerboards and ⅞” or 1” for the larger boards. Broom handles, etc., may be used as substitutes for the dowels.

The checkers should be of a uniform thickness, and this is best secured by using a combination mitre-box, saw, and gauge. If this is not available, any other means may be employed to saw the dowels into disks ⅛” or ³⁄₁₆” in thickness.

Lay a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the checkers on this to remove saw marks. Two grades of sandpaper give a better finish than one.

To play the game, it is necessary that there should be two colors of checkers. Some woods present sufficient difference in their natural colors to serve this purpose, but it is generally better that one set at least should be artificially colored. For this, use stain or ink. Place some of the fluid in a shallow dish, and drop the checkers into it. Remove at once with nippers or two sticks, and lay on a paper to dry.

Most stains will stand some water, but common ink would wash out if rained on. So to preserve the color, checkers dyed with ink should afterward be dropped into a thin shellac and taken out and dried. Those of natural color should also be shellaced as they keep clean much longer. After the shellac is dry, there is a little roughness on the surface. If this is rubbed off with fine sandpaper the checkers are much more agreeable to handle. Twelve checkers of each color are needed for a set but three or four extra ones may be added. Put these in a strong bag securely tied.

II. Button Molds. Instead of using dowels, as just described, wooden button molds may be colored and used.

III. Buttons. Two contrasting colors of flat buttons make excellent checkers.

Problem VII

PICTURE FRAME

TIME: 4 hours.

MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum or paper.

First choose size of picture and then width of frame. This may be uniform on all sides or one may observe the rules for margins shown on pages 21 and 22. Make a careful drawing of the outside of the frame and opening, and then lay out and cut the newsboard as indicated. For covering, plan and cut a piece of vellum, grass cloth, paper or other material which shall extend beyond the newsboard on each side for at least one-half an inch. On this material indicate the position of the newsboard including the opening for the picture. Also draw lines one-half an inch inside and parallel to the lines showing opening. Cut on these lines and at each corner cut oblique lines to allow the laps to fold under. For the back there should be planned and cut another piece of newsboard one-eighth of an inch shorter than the front and of the same width; and to cover it a strip of covering material three-eighths of an inch longer and one-quarter of an inch narrower than the newsboard. (See Plate XXII.)

To assemble: Paste the foundation of the front to the covering and turn under and paste the laps at the opening. At this time paste only one outside lap and that the top one. Over one end of the newsboard-back turn the outside strip about half an inch and paste this down leaving the remainder of the piece free. Place this piece of newsboard against the front, with the pasted end at the top, and over both pieces of newsboard paste the three laps attached to the front side. Fold back the free piece and paste as a lining over the back. To this may be pasted a patent hanger--a ring attached to a gummed disk. The picture should be inserted at the opening in the top.

If a double frame is desired (see Plate XXIII) make a frame for each picture but use for the back of each a piece of heavy paper which should not have an additional covering. Make a foundation which folds through the center planning to have it extend slightly beyond the frames as shown in Plate XXII; to each half of this foundation attach the frames already made.

C. Either style of frame may be made with a covering of silk, grass cloth, leather, and slightly padded. For this purpose use sheet wadding which should be firmly attached to the front of the foundation. Over this lay the covering material and paste the laps only, not the broad faces.

Problem VIII

HINGED COVERS

TIME: 8 hours.

MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum, paper for leaves, eyelets, cord, and (if desired) cover paper for C and D.

NOTE: In selecting materials, choose those which harmonize with each other, i.e., the vellum, cover paper, and lining paper should be of the same hue.

The problem is to make two separate hinged covers between which loose leaves may be bound, the whole to be fastened together with macrame or other cord. This may be designed for one of many uses, suggestions for several of which follow (see Plate XXIV).

A. A SKETCH BOOK

In making dimensioned sketches for the various parts (see Plate XXV) determine first the size of the pages and plan the covers to extend beyond them about one-eighth of an inch. Make the sketches of the pages and the newsboard foundations. Lay out and cut the latter, of full size, and then from either a long or short side of each, in accordance with plan, cut a strip to form a hinge. The width of these strips may be from three-quarters of an inch to one inch. Vellum should be planned to cover completely one side of both pieces of each cover, to fold around the small piece and to lap over onto the large piece about one-half inch. It should also fold over the other three edges about one-half inch. (See Plate XXVI.) The lining paper should cover to within about one-eighth of an inch of the edges of the large pieces and should not extend onto the hinge. Constant bending soon breaks paper, but with ordinary use does not affect the tough vellum. Make dimensioned sketches of these pieces (see Plate XXV) and lay out and cut all remaining parts.

Properly place main part of newsboard on vellum, drawing around it. Lay small part one-eighth of an inch from main part and draw around it. Remove the pieces of newsboard and apply paste to vellum inside the pencil line, being careful to cover the surface smoothly and evenly; lay both back pieces in place, turn the vellum over and rub down. Cut from the projecting vellum on the hinged side a small piece even with the edges of the hinges as far as the outside corners (see Plate XXVI), and clip off the outside corners as before described. Apply paste to projecting vellum, fold over first the hinged side and its opposite, then the other two sides, and rub down. Paste the lining paper in and dry the covers separately under weight. Remember to place newspaper or blotting paper between each pair, otherwise the moisture from one will cause wrinkles in the other.

For the leaves, use drawing paper, which may be cut singly or in folio (with single fold). The latter method is preferable, as folded sheets are easier to place at the back, look better, and are more secure.

Two holes in each cover are sufficient for the cord, but a little care should be taken to determine the best position for them. The distance of each from the end of the hinge strips should be from one-fifth to one-sixth of its length, and, of course, they should be placed midway between the long edges. After punching the holes, see that the leaves are properly marked so that the holes in them will exactly fit the holes in the cover. To do this, place one sheet on the cover, leaving correct margins, and through the center of each hole mark the paper which should then be punched. Treat the other sheets in the same manner. Eyelets should be inserted in the covers only, and for that purpose a good eyelet punch is necessary. Directions for its use and sample eyelets accompany punches when sent from the dealer.

Complete by tying all together with a piece of cord. Make a small flat bow on the front cover.

B. A SCRAP BOOK

This should be planned and worked out in the same manner as the Sketch Book, but it should be somewhat larger, possibly 6 × 8½ inches. For the leaves, screenings or wrapping paper may be used.

To prevent covers from flaring after the book has been filled, the thickness at the back should be increased by additional folds in the paper, as shown in Plate XXVIIA. The “stub” should be about one inch wide after it is folded. The Japanese method, which is to fold a very long strip many times in the same manner, forms a pleasing arrangement (see Plate XXVIIB).