Chapter VI: Part 6

On the 9th of December, 1767, all the sails of the vessels were set, to make head against the fury of the tide; but they were obliged again to come to an anchor, after sailing only three miles. During two whole days the weather was so tempestuous, that not a boat could put off from the ships, which was a mortifying circumstance, as great numbers of the Patagonians were by this time got together, on the spot where they had conversed with the officers, who were concerned that they were not able to keep their promise with these friendly people, whose little wants might have been easily supplied. It appeared, by the help of glasses, that they had built several huts on the shore, and it was observed, that some of them were constantly galloping backwards and forwards from this place to a spot, where it was supposed the main body of them lay.

Early on the morning of the 12th the Boudeuse lost an anchor, by the parting of the cable; soon after which they set all their sails, and by the assistance of the ebb-tide, and a favourable wind, they got through the second gut in the afternoon, and anchored on the north-side of the isle of Elizabeth.

As they were detained here two days, by tempestuous weather, and contrary winds, Mons. Bougainville resolved to land on the isle of Elizabeth, where he met with a few bustards, that were at this time hatching their eggs, but these birds were so intimidated at the sight of our adventurers, that they could not approach near enough to have even a single shot at them. The island produces no wood, but only a kind of heath, which might supply its place as fuel for the fire. The water of this place is brackish, and the soil extremely dry. Several places were likewise observed, which had been marshes, but had become dry, and the ground on some parts of them were covered with a thin crust of salt. It was evident that this island was occasionally visited by the Indians, as the shells of some fish they had eaten were found, near where a dead dog was lying, and where it was plain that fires had been made.

Our adventurers were now on the point of entering that part of the streights of Magellan which abounds in woods, and the principal difficulties were already overcome.

On the afternoon of the 30th the anchors were weighed, and they sailed, with a violent wind, in a channel between the islands of St. Barthelemi and Lions, and that of Elizabeth. They were now obliged to coast the last named island, to steer clear of a number of breakers, with which the other islands are encompassed. Having sailed beyond Cape Noir, they observed that the country had a pleasant appearance, being almost every where covered with woods, which afforded a most delightful prospect to the eye.

In the evening the weather became suddenly calm and pleasant, so that Mons. Bougainville pleased himself with the hope of being able to double Cape Round before the morning; but in this climate the most flattering appearances are by no means to be relied on; a truth that was fully evinced in the present instance: for soon after twelve at night the wind suddenly shifted, and blew most violently, bringing with it storms of hail, and deluges of rain, while a fog, apparently impenetrable, covered the whole coast.

The main-sail of the Boudeuse being split by this storm, they endeavoured to make Port Famine, where they hoped to be sheltered from the tempest; but this attempt was fruitless; for the violence of the current was such, that they lost nine miles in as many hours, and were hurried with amazing rapidity into a large bay, formed by part of the coast of Terra del Fuego, which Mons. Bougainville called Bay Duelos, from the name of the officer who was next in command under the Commodore of the expedition, and whose knowledge and experience are mentioned as circumstances highly advantageous to the enterprize.

This Bay is described as being very convenient for ships to anchor in, on account of the westerly winds blowing over the coast. Two small rivers discharge their streams into the bay, the water of which is excellent at about a quarter of a mile from the sea coast, though nearer than that distance it is impregnated with saline particles. The landing-place is a sandy beach, above which a pleasant meadow stretches itself to a considerable distance. Behind this meadow the woods raise their lofty heads, and form a kind of amphitheatre. Our adventurers traversed a considerable tract of the country, without meeting with any living animal, except a very few parroquets, bustards, ducks, teals, and two or three snipes.

Several huts were seen at the mouth of a river, which had been constructed by twisting branches of trees into the form of an oven. In these huts were found large numbers of limpets, muscles, and calcined shells; and the huts themselves appeared to have been recently made. Our adventurers going some miles up the river, observed the track of human creatures, and remarked, that the flood came from the east at the rising of the tide, which they had not before observed in any other part of the streights.

The seamen were now engaged in cutting wood till the 16th, when the vessels sailed with a favourable wind, and passed Point St. Anne, which covers Port Famine, a bay so called, on account of the disastrous fate of the colony formerly established on its borders by the too adventrous Spaniards.

Mons. Bougainville observes, that the shores of this country are covered with wood, and are remarkably steep: those of Terra del Fuego, he says, are horrible to behold; and that “mountains there are covered with a blueish snow as old as the creation:”--These are his own words; but with all submission to the learning and penetration of our ingenious voyager, we cannot conceive by what kind of intuition, he came to know that the snow had lain on these mountains more than five thousand years; or even that it had not fallen within five days of the time he saw it. It is no breach of Christian charity to observe, that these Frenchmen are as finished coxcombs in their writings, as they are in every part of their dress and behaviour. It is hoped that Englishmen will be cautious how they imitate them in either particular.

There are four bays proper for the anchoring of vessels, between Cape Forward and Cape Round; and two of these bays are separated by a Cape of a most singular kind, which consists of petrified shells, laying horizontally, and rising more than fifty yards above the level of the sea. Mons. Bougainville took soundings at the foot of this Cape, but a line of an hundred fathom would not reach the bottom.

As the ships were now becalmed for two hours, our Commodore took this opportunity of taking the soundings near, and the bearings of Cape Forward, which he mentions as the most southerly point of land, on the continent, in the known world, and he fixes its latitude at fifty-four degrees, five minutes, and forty-five seconds, south. Its surface consists of two hills, something more than two miles in extent, one of which is considerably higher than the other. The tops of these hills are covered with snow, which gradually melting by the warmth of the sun, supply with perpetual moisture the roots of trees which are fixed in the crevices of the rock.

Mons. Bougainville and his party landed on a small rock, which barely afforded room for four persons to stand on, and here they hoisted the colours of the boat, and repeatedly shouted _Vive le Roi_. Our author mentions it with an air of triumph, that these rocks now resounded _for the first time_, with this compliment to the grand Monarche. A striking instance of the vanity by which the French nation is distinguished!

Having returned to the ship, and the wind coming about favourable, Mons. Bougainville sailed in search of a harbour, which received the name of _French Bay_, where he resolved to take in a quantity of wood and water, as a supply during their voyage across the great South-Sea. In consequence of this resolution all the boats were instantly hoisted out, with a view to begin this necessary business the next morning.

The night proving excessively stormy and tempestuous, it was passed in fears and apprehensions which baffle all description.

Early in the morning a boat was sent out to sound the mouth of a river which had been previously denominated _Gennes’ River_, from the name of a gentleman who was a partaker in the dangers and hardships of this expedition. As it was low water when the boat reached the shore, her crew could not land without running her a-ground on a sand; and it was evident, that the larger boats could only make the shore at high water, so that their wood and water could be brought on board only once a day. For these reasons Mons. Bougainville determined to anchor in a small bay about three miles distant, called after his own name, where he had, in the year 1765, taken in a loading of wood for Falkland’s islands.

Bougainville bay, to which they now sailed, is surrounded by high mountains, which secure it from the winds blowing from every point of the compass, so that the surface of the water is unruffled even by a single breeze.

Having cast their anchors in this bay, and made fast the vessels by means of hawsers tied to some trees on the coast, they landed, and found two Indian huts, constructed of the branches of trees, but they did not appear to have been lately inhabited. In the year 1765 Mons. Bougainville had caused a hut of bark to be erected on this spot, in which he left some trifles, by way of present to such of the natives as might happen to wander that way; on this hut he had put up a white flag; but both the presents and the flag had been taken away, and the hut levelled with the ground.

On the morning of the 18th of December a kind of camp was formed on shore, by way of guarding the effects which were landed, and protecting the men who were to be employed in taking in wood and water. Small ponds were now dug, for the accommodation of those destined to wash the linen, and the water casks were sent on shore to be repaired. The crew of the Eagle having, in 1765, cut down many more trees than were wanted for that vessel, the labour of this task was saved to our present adventurers, who were likewise happy in finding roads ready made through the woods, for the convenience of bringing down the timber to the sea-shore. At this place the remainder of the month was spent in the necessary employment above-mentioned, and in repairing the ships, particularly the Etoile, which had so large a leak in her stern, that most of the hands on board her were fatigued beyond expression, by standing at the pumps, alternately, night and day.

The astronomer, Mons. Verron, now landed on a little island, which was denominated the _Isle of Observatory_, from its being a place admirably calculated for the making astronomical observations; but his labours were fruitless, owing to the cloudiness of the weather, which is almost perpetual in this country. At some periods, however, the sun appeared free from clouds, and melted a part of the snow which had lodged on the mountains of the main land. Whenever this fine weather happened, the prince of Nassau, attended by Mons. de Commerçon, a celebrated botanist, went in search of plants and herbs, and they were very successful in their researches: but the gentlemen who endeavoured to fish, or to hunt for animals, met with no such good fortune, for they never catched even a single fish, nor ever saw any quadruped but one fox, which was killed by the party employed in collecting the stores.

Mons. Bougainville having formed a resolution of taking a survey of the coasts of the main land, and likewise of those of Terra del Fuego, he embarked in his boat, early in the morning of the 22d, accompanied by two gentlemen, who proposed to sail with him as far as Cape Holland. The weather was calm and serene at their first setting out; but the wind soon varied to different points of the compass, and blew a hurricane, which obliged our adventurers to take shelter in the mouth of a small river. Having gained the desired port, they waited in the hope that the storm would abate, till they were almost benumbed with the cold, and wet to the skin with the rain; they therefore landed, and cutting down some branches of trees, erected a kind of hut, in order to shelter them during the night. “These huts (says Mons. Bougainville) serve as palaces to the natives of these climates; but we had not yet learnt their custom of living in them.”

It continued to rain incessantly, and was at the same time so cold, that the gentlemen found their present situation untenable; they therefore sheltered themselves as well as they could under the sail of the boat, and kept up a large fire all night, which was tempestuous in a very high degree. In the morning they hastened to their boat, and returned to the ship, happy, by that means, to avoid the effects of the growing tempest, which soon became so violent, that it would have prevented their returning at all. For two days after this it snowed continually, so that the mountains were covered, notwithstanding it was now midsummer, and the sun appeared almost eighteen hours in the four and twenty.

When the storm had subsided, Mons. Bougainville formed the resolution of going on a second expedition, which he flattered himself would be attended with more success. Accordingly, early in the morning of the 27th (the barge of the Etoile, and the long-boat of the Boudeuse, having been armed with swivel guns and muskets) our adventurers embarked with the prince of Nassau, and two other gentlemen, and sailed for the coast of Terra del Fuego, where they arrived in about six hours; and finding a number of huts, which the natives had left in a delightful wood on the sea-coast, they there sat down, and made a most agreeable repast.

After dinner they coasted the country for a considerable time, and then crossed an inlet, which Mons. Bougainville conjectures to be a streight which leads to the sea, at no great distance from Cape Horn. This conjecture is founded partly on the width of the inlet, which is not less than six miles, and partly on the observing a prodigious number of whales in that part of the sea.

When our adventurers had almost reached the opposite side of the inlet, they saw a number of fires on the coast, and soon afterwards discovered several of the inhabitants on the point of a bay. Towards this place they immediately steered; and they had no sooner landed, than Mons. Bougainville recollected, that these Indians were the same people whom he had seen on his former voyage in the streights, and whom he had then distinguished by the name of _Pecherais_, because these savages were perpetually making use of that word, in the same manner as the Patagonians did that of _Shawa_.

The number of the Pecherais that had thus assembled was about forty, of both sexes, and all ages, and they had several canoes in an adjacent creek. As the evening advanced, Mons. Bougainville could not stay long with his old acquaintance, but left them, in order to reach an inlet, where he proposed to spend the night; but as the time would not permit the accomplishing his wish, he landed on the banks of a river, and having caused tents to be made of the sails of the boats, and a large fire to be made, the party spent the night in perfect safety, and much to their satisfaction.

On the following day it was found that the inlet above-mentioned was an excellent port, wherein ships might be sheltered against every dangerous wind; and in which the ground is admirably calculated to afford the best and safest anchorage. From the elegance and convenience of this bay and port it received the name of _Beaubassin_ [the beautiful harbour.] Mons. Bougainville mentions this place as equally convenient for the careening of ships, and for the taking in wood and water.

That no necessary information respecting so commodious a harbour might be lost, the Commodore left Mons. Bournard there, to take the most exact account of every thing that might be thought worthy of notice, and he was then to return, in the long-boat, to the ships. In the mean time Mons. Bougainville and a part of his company embarked in the barge, and rowing to the westward, discovered an island, on the coast of which several of the natives were employed in fishing. Before the evening our voyagers arrived at a bay, which received the name of _de la Cormorandiere_; from a rock which appeared at about a mile distant from it.

Early in the morning of the 29th Mons. Bougainville departed from this bay, and sailed between two islands, to which he gave the name of the _two Sisters_, they are situated about nine miles from Cape Forward. Soon after this they discovered a mountain, of a conical form, which they called the _Sugar Loaf_; and, in the course of the day they arrived at a commodious bay, at the bottom of it there is a most excellent port, into which falls a very singular cascade. For these reasons the place received the name of the _Bay and Port of the Cascade_. It is represented as a place highly proper for taking in wood and water, and very safe to anchor in.

The stream of a small river which seeks its way between a number of lofty hills, forms this water-fall, which descends perpendicularly down the side of the rock above a hundred yards. Mons. Bougainville went to the top of the cascade, and made his remarks on the appearance of the adjacent country, in some parts of which there are small plains which produce a kind of spungy moss, and in others the ground is covered with thickets of wood. The plants and trees are of the same kind as those which the coast of Patagonia produces; and the whole face of the country has much the appearance of Falkland’s islands, except the want of trees at the latter place. On the whole, our author says, that all that part of Terra del Fuego, from the present spot, to that which lies opposite Elizabeth island, consists only of large and mountainous islands, the summits of which are clothed with perpetual snow. Mons. Bougainville searched in this place to find the traces of inhabitants, but he did not succeed; and he is of opinion, that the natives of Terra del Fuego seldom, if ever, depart from the sea-shores, because on those they obtain the necessaries of life.

Our adventurers remained at Port Cascade, during the night of the 29th, which was rendered highly disagreeable by incessant rain, and intense cold; and on the morning of the following day they crossed the streight with a boisterous wind and a rough sea, which rendered the navigation dangerous to so small a vessel. The rain kept pouring down almost the whole of this day, which was employed in viewing the coast, and making such remarks as may be useful to future navigators. Our voyagers had now a very narrow escape with their lives, the boat having been nearly overset in crossing a bay, owing to a mistake of the steersman in the management of the helm. At length, however, they got safe on board the Boudeuse, and as the commanding officer, during Mons. Bougainville’s absence, had shipped every thing that was necessary, preparations were immediately made for sailing.

They departed from Bougainville Bay in the afternoon of the 31st of December, 1767, and in the evening came to an anchor in the road of Port Galant, which is situated at the bottom of Fortescue Bay, where they were detained no less than three weeks, by such bad weather, as the inhabitants of these milder climes cannot form an adequate idea of.

On the first of January, 1768, Mons. Bougainville dispatched a party in a boat, to make remarks on the coast, as far as Elizabeth Bay; and to take a view of the numerous islands with which this part of the streights of Magellan abounds. Two of these islands, to which Sir John Narborough formerly gave the names of Charles and Monmouth, were distinctly seen from the place where the ships lay at anchor; but those which he has denominated the Royal Isles, and Rupert Island, were at too great a distance to be viewed from Mons. Bougainville’s present station.

Notwithstanding the severity of the weather, and the almost incessant rains, the crew which had been sent out landed on different places, at one of which it was evident, that some English ships had lately touched; for on several trees they saw initial letters, and even whole names, cut in the wood: they also saw many spice-laurel-trees, the bark of which had been lately taken off, with other plain indications who they were that had visited the spot, but what put the matter beyond all doubt, were the words, _Chatham, March, 1766_, which were very legible on a piece of wood, of that kind which is frequently affixed to pieces of cloth in the royal marine warehouses of Great Britain.

The astronomer, Mons. Verron, in the mean time, had his astronomical instruments conveyed to a peninsula, by which the harbour is formed, in order to make observations, for ascertaining the bearing and distances of particular capes: but the result of his observations would afford neither instruction nor entertainment to any but the mere nautical reader; nor would they be of the least use even to him, unless he was bound on a voyage to the South Seas, through the streights of Magellan.

The weather was so exquisitely severe on the fourth and fifth of January, that no pen can describe it, nor any imagination conceive an idea of it. A violent storm of wind was attended with incessant rain or snow, and the keenest biting coldness in the air. Mons. Bougainville informs us that, during this severe weather, he sent out a boat to search for a convenient anchoring-place on the coast of Terra del Fuego, and an excellent one was found to the south-west of Charles and Monmouth islands.

On the 6th the weather was more moderate than it had been for some days past. In the morning of this day four small boats, with Indians on board them, were observed at the point of Cape Galant, one of which advanced towards Mons. Bougainville’s ship, while the rest rowed towards the bottom of the bay. In the boat which approached the Boudeuse were a man, his wife, and two children, the former of whom went on board, without the least apparent sign of fear, leaving the woman and children in the boat. Soon after this man had gone on board, two Indians from the other boats followed his example, bringing their children with them.

These people seemed not to express the least surprize either at the structure of the ship, or at any thing they saw on board her, which our author deems a proof that, “in order to be capable of being surprized at the work of art, one must have some fundamental ideas of it.”--There may be some truth in this observation; but we cannot help resolving the apparent want of curiosity in these savages into another, and a very different cause; namely, their having seen the English, or other vessels, which had visited the streights of Magellan.

The Commodore prevailed on these people to dance and sing, and treated them with a kind of concert of music. He likewise gave them bread, and different kinds of meat, all of which they devoured with avidity, seeming equally pleased with every thing that was given them, and with every occurrence that passed; nor could they be persuaded to quit the ship, till several pieces of salt meat had been put into their boats.

Our author calls these happy Indians “troublesome and disgusting guests.”--One would wonder on what authority he has adopted these epithets, or how the company of the _savages_, as he calls them, could be troublesome or disgusting, when they sang and danced, only on being asked to do so; received with gratitude whatever was given them, and applied it to the purpose for which it was given.--Mons. Bougainville calls them “unpolished men;” as if the frippery complaisance of the court of Versailles could have been expected from these honest tenants of the woods; whose instructors are plain sense and nature, and whose God is the God of the Europeans.--In a word, our author writes with an affected consciousness of superiority, and in the pert restlessness of stile, that is almost peculiar to the French novelist who would be thought a philosopher.

The people are clothed with seal-skins, which are by far too small to cover the whole of the body; and with these skins they make the sails of their boats, and the coverings of their huts. They are likewise possessed of a few of the skins of the guanacoe, but our author does not mention to what use they apply them; though it should seem probable that they form a part of their clothing.

Mons. Bougainville describes these Indians as thin, short, and ugly; and that a most offensive smell is the consequence of keeping them company. The women are still more disagreeable than the men, who do not appear by any means fond of them. It is the duty of the females to steer the boats, and to repair any damage that may happen to them; and they are often obliged to swim after them through the sea-weeds; nor are even women who have sucking children excused this duty: the child is carried on the mother’s back, enclosed in the seal-skin that forms her dress. When the women are on shore their business is to collect shells and wood; nor do the men even share with them in this employment.

The boats are constructed of the bark of trees, fastened together with rushes, and the seams are caulked with moss. A fire is constantly kept in the middle of the boat, on a heap of sand, which is placed to prevent the burning of the vessel. Their arms consist of bows and arrows formed of the branches of the berberry bush, which grows plentifully in these parts. The arrows are pointed with sharp stones, and the string of the bow is made of the gut of some animal; but they use not these weapons against an enemy; they are destined only for the destruction of birds, or other animals proper for the support of life.

Mons. Bougainville says, that these Indians use a kind of harpoon, for the purpose of striking fish, which is made of bones, it is about twelve inches in length, pointed at the end, and indented on one of its sides.

The principal subsistence of these people is fish; but it is supposed that they sometimes catch game, as they have dogs of the sporting kind, and springes, or nooses, adapted for the snaring of quadrupeds. The teeth of all the natives are very bad, which our author attributes to their eating fish when boiling hot, though they do not half boil it before it is so eaten. They live in huts which have no partition of rooms, in the middle of which a fire is lighted, that serves the whole family.

The disposition of these people is of the amiable kind; but their extreme good nature borders on weakness; they believe in evil genii, and have priests and physicians, whom they suppose capable of deprecating the vengeance of their aerial enemies. Mons. Bougainville observes, that these _Pecherais_ have the fewest conveniences of life of any people he has ever known; yet they do not repine at their situation, but appear to be contented with the lot which providence hath assigned them; tho’ they live in the most inclement climate hitherto discovered in the habitable globe. Exclusive of the other peculiarities of their fate, they are fewer in number than any other known race of men; yet this little society, cut off as it is from all intercourse with the rest of mankind, is not totally free from the vices common to larger states, as a contest for dominion exists even among them, and the more powerful are perpetually labouring to distress the weaker. Thus it is with the poor _Pecherais_, as with every other community in the universe, that those who cannot make head against tyranny, must submit to the arbitrary command, the _sic voleo, sic jubeo_ of the tyrant.

The inclemency of the weather, during the 7th and 8th of the month, was such, that the crews of the ships could not venture on shore; and though it was even now the summer-time, the adjacent country was covered with snow, which also laid on the ship to the depth of several inches.

On the ninth the Indians, who had previously painted their bodies with red and white streaks, advanced towards the ships; but seeing the boats go off towards their habitations, all of them, except one, followed the ships boats, and that went on board the Etoile, where she remained but a little while, and then followed the others.

The crews of the boats having landed, went to the huts of the Indians, who seemed by no means to relish this unexpected visit; which was particularly evinced by the women having all retreated to one hut. The men invited the French sailors into those huts where the women were not to be found; and the Frenchmen having accepted the invitation, were treated with shell fish, which the Indians shucked before they delivered them to their visitors. The behaviour of the natives was lively, and they entertained their guests with dancing and singing: they revelled with uncontrolled delight, when, alas! their mirth was interrupted by an accident as fatal as unexpected!

A boy, the son of one of the Indians, was suddenly seized with a disorder which occasioned the most violent convulsions, and spitting of blood. This child had been on board the Etoile, where the seamen had presented him with some pieces of glass; and as these Indians are accustomed to put things of this kind up their nostrils, and into their throats, it is supposed this youth had taken the same measure, and that the fatal effects which followed were the consequence of his having swallowed the glass. It is here proper to remark, that the _Pecherais_ consider the swallowing of substances which resemble glass, as a preventive remedy against certain disorders to which they are liable.

The lips, palate, and gums of the boy were cut; and as he bled freely, the Indians conceived an idea that the Frenchmen had violated the rights of hospitality, and injured him, whom, by all the laws of honour, they were bound to treat with civility.

This circumstance gave rise to a jealousy and distrust no way favourable to their European visitors; indeed it appeared, that the Indians suspected the French to have caused the child’s illness. A linen jacket having been given to this child by the French, he was stript of it, and it was thrown at their feet; but it was instantly seized by an Indian, who did not seem to dread the powers of enchantment.

The child being laid on his back, a conjurer knelt between his legs, and pressing the body forcibly with his hands and head, uttered a number of inarticulate vociferations. At repeated intervals during this ceremony he arose, and opening his hands, which had been before grasped, he blew in the air with his mouth, as if desirous of driving away some evil genius. While this business was transacting, an ancient woman bawled in the ears of the child, so as almost to deafen him with her noise; and indeed the remedy seemed to be, in the literal phrase, worse than the disease. The conjurer having retired for some time, returned in a new dress, and, with an air of triumph, renewed his incantations, but with no better success than before. His hair had been powdered, and his head was distinguished by two wings, similar to those with which Mercury is represented by the painters. The life of the child now appearing to be even in more danger than before, the French Chaplain hastily baptized him, unobserved by the Indians.

What a strange medley of ignorance and superstition was all this!--Mons. Bougainville laughs at the folly of the Indian juggler, while he seems to speak in an applausive strain of the conduct of the French priest, which was certainly equally ridiculous with that of the Indian!

Some officers having repaired on board the ship, and acquainted the Commodore with what was transacting, he went on shore with the Surgeon, who took some gruel and milk with him. When they came to the spot, they found that the juggler was assisted by another person habited like himself, and that the patient had suffered much from their absurd attempts to relieve him; yet were these attempts continued, without any complaint on the part of the poor boy.

The affection of the parents, and indeed of the whole company of Indians, was manifested by floods of tears, and by many other expressions of grief; and when it was observed, that the Frenchmen seemed to share in their misfortune, they appeared to be less diffident of the conduct of the strangers; and at length they permitted the Surgeon to examine the mouth of the sick youth, which being bloody, had been repeatedly sucked by his father and another man.

After some time the father accepted the gruel, and permitted his son to drink some milk, but not till the French gentlemen had repeatedly tasted it in his presence. The conjurers appeared to be jealous of the Surgeon, but they could not help confessing the superiority of his abilities. It was remarked, that while one of these Indian physicians was endeavouring to drive away the disorder, the other was busily employed in deprecating that vengeance, which they supposed the visit of the strangers had occasioned.

In the evening the child appeared to be less pained; but, from many circumstances, it was thought, that he had swallowed some pieces of glass. Mons. Bougainville and the Surgeon now went on board, and it is conjectured, that the boy died about two o’clock the next morning; for soon after that time loud cries were heard, and, at day-break, the Indians departed from a place which had been so peculiarly fatal to them; for the loss of even one member of so small a community, could not but be an object of great and public concern.

On the 13th and 14th the weather was so bad, that it was impossible to think of sailing, and on the 15th the vessels were detained by a strong contrary wind; but on the following day they sailed, with a favourable breeze, which, however, soon shifted, and prevented their reaching Rupert island, off which it was Mons. Bougainville’s intention to have anchored. After a whole day of fatigue and danger they returned to Port Galant, and anchored again near their former station.

On the seventeenth the storms were more violent than they had ever yet been; the sea ran to a mountainous height, and the wind blew in such contrary directions, that the opposing waves destroyed each other. The storm having in some degree subsided before noon, a loud peal of thunder was presently heard, after which the winds blew with increasing violence, and all the elements waged a still more furious war. The anchors of the ships having dragged, the top-masts and lower-yards were struck, to avoid the dreadful consequences of the storm. At this time, however, the shrubs and plants were in bloom, and the trees were covered with a luxuriance of verdure.

On the 21st and the two following days the weather was extremely windy, while it rained and snowed incessantly. The night of the 21st indeed was moderately calm; but this calm served only as the prelude to a storm, which descended with aggravated fury; such a storm as the oldest sailor on board had never remembered; but its continuance was by no means proportioned to its violence.

On the 24th the weather being fine and serene, preparations were made for sailing, and on the following day the anchors were weighed, and the vessels got under way. Having arrived off Cape Quod, our Commodore stops a moment to describe it. Its figure, he says, is very singular, consisting of craggy rocks, the most elevated of which bear a strong resemblance to the ruins of ancient buildings. From Bay Galant to this cape the verdant appearance of the trees takes off, in some degree, that horror, which would otherwise arise in the mind from the constant sight of the summits of mountains which are always frozen. After passing Cape Quod, the face of the country is totally changed, both sides of the streight exhibiting a prospect of rocks, which are uncovered even with the slighted layer of earth. The tops of these rocks are cloathed with eternal snow, while the vallies between them are choaked up with prodigious quantities of ice, which have the appearance of having been congealed for a long series of years. So dreadful is the appearance of this part of the streight, that Sir John Narborough gave it the name of _Desolation of the South_; and, in fact, it is desolate and dreary beyond all description.

When Mons. Bougainville’s ship was opposite Cape Quod, the coast of Terra del Fuego, distant upwards of forty miles, appeared as if terminated by a projecting cape. There are three capes on the continent, which our adventurers called _Etoile Cape_, _Boudeuse Cape_, and _Split Cape_[3], the last of which is so denominated from its figure. The streight, which in this part is about six miles wide, received the name of Long Reach[4].

[3] _Cape Fendu_, in the original.

[4] _Longue Rue._

As the evening of the 26th was very fine, Mons. Bougainville determined to continue his way under an easy sail; but about two hours before midnight a thick fog came on, the wind arose, and the rain poured down in torrents, while it became so excessive dark, that no land could be seen. The situation of the ships was now supposed to be opposite Cape Monday; and the night was spent in standing off and on shore, in momentary expectation of some fatal accident.

The land being seen at day-break, they hoisted additional sails, and proceeded with rapidity, till they reached Cape Pillar, when they had sight of the main ocean, into which they arrived under a full sail, on the evening of the same day; having, by the advantage of thirty six hours fair wind, sailed from port Galant into the great South Sea, without once coming to an anchor.

Mons. Bougainville was seven weeks and three days in passing the streights of Magellan, the whole length of which, from Cape Virgin Mary to Cape Pillar, he computes at about three hundred and forty miles.

Though the passing the streights is a work of some difficulty and danger, our author recommends it as more safe than the doubling of Cape Horn, if undertaken between the months of September and April; but, during the rest of the year, he advises the passing through the open sea; and he observes, that the lost time in sailing through the Magellanic Streights, is amply repaid by the conveniences of taking in wood and water, and the chance there is of the scurvy making less havock among a crew, when they have repeated opportunities of landing. He adds, that when he left the streights he had not a single invalid on board either of his vessels.

Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to a recital of the several circumstances which arose, and the adventures he met with, from this period till his return to Europe; in which we shall trace him with the utmost fidelity of the historian; presuming to differ from him whenever he appears to be mistaken as a writer, or to act on wrong principles as a man.

Our Commodore now sailed nearly a westerly course, having previously agreed with the Captain of the Etoile, that he should keep company with the Boudeuse during the nights, and in the morning of each day should sail as far as he could to the southward, without losing sight of the other vessel, in order that the ships might command as extensive a prospect as possible, by which means it was hoped that some new discoveries might be made.

On the 30th of January, while the sea ran very high, one of the crew of the Boudeuse fell over board, and was drowned, notwithstanding every endeavour to preserve his life.--From this time till the 17th of February, Mons. Bougainville sailed in search of what is called Davis’s Land, which was discovered by our countryman of that name in the year 1686; and he says, that if he had followed the directions laid down in Mons. de Bellin’s chart, he must have sailed over this land.

On the 17th sea gulls were seen; and as these birds do not go above eighty leagues from land, it was resolved not to alter the course of the ships for three days; but within this period no land was discovered.

The westerly wind, with a slight variation to the north and south, prevailed from the 23d of February to the 3d of March, during which time they had rain and thunder every day, immediately before, or soon after the sun had reached the meridian. This variation of the wind, from what is commonly called the Trade-wind, is mentioned by Mons. Bougainville as an extraordinary circumstance.

Soon after the ships had got clear of the streights of Magellan, an epidemical sore throat attacked almost every man on board, which was cured by putting vinegar and red hot bullets into the water-casks, so that by the end of March, the whole crew were recovered. For several days after this period such a quantity of bonitos and other fish was catched, as afforded one meal daily to every man on board.

On the 21st a tunny fish was taken, in the belly of which were a number of small fish of such kinds, as are known not to swim far out to sea; whence it was concluded, that land could not be at any great distance; and on the following day this conjecture appeared to be well founded, for four very small islands were then discovered, to which Mons. Bougainville gave the name of _les quatre Facardins_; but as these were too much to the windward of the ships, they held on their way, steering for another island, which was almost right a head.

As the vessels advanced towards this latter island, it was observed, that it abounded with cocoa-nut trees, the fruit of which had a very tempting appearance. These trees grew on plats of grass, strewed with an abundance of beautiful flowers; and the rest of the island was clothed with trees of various kinds. Immense numbers of birds were seen on the coast, which was therefore supposed to afford a plenty of fish: but the sea running high, and no harbour being discovered, in which our voyagers might hope for protection from the fury of its waves, they were prevented from landing: when they had coasted the island for about two miles, they had sight of three men, who advanced hastily towards the shore.

Mons. Bougainville at first imagined that these people were part of the crew of some European ship, which had been wrecked on the coast; and, impressed with this idea he gave, the necessary orders for affording them the wished for relief: but he soon discovered that his conjecture was ill-founded; for the people retired to the woods, from whence, in a short time, issued a number of them, supposed to be near twenty, with long staves in their hands, which they held up with an air of threatening and defiance. This being done, they retreated to the woods, in which, by the help of glasses, their habitations were plainly seen. These islanders were of a copper complexion, and very tall.

Mons. Bougainville makes it a matter of wonder by what means these people were conveyed to this solitary island, and how they are disposed of when their increasing numbers render their support impossible on a spot, the circumference of which, he apprehends, does not exceed nine miles:--but our philosopher seems to forget that he has but just left four other small islands; nor did he recollect, when he wrote his volume, that he was, in a subsequent page, to tell us that he had soon afterwards discovered a larger island, the inhabitants of which, for any thing he could tell, might have intercourse with those on the before-mentioned island. He seems equally ignorant, whether the people of these islands are or are not possessed of vessels proper for conveying them from one to the other; and he has forgot likewise, which appears to be the greatest blunder of all, that there may probably be, in this neighbourhood, some large continent, hitherto unknown to all our European navigators. It is possible our remarks may be as absurd as Mons. Bougainville’s appear to be; but they seem to arise naturally from the subject. Be this as it may; our Commodore named the above-mentioned place the _Isle of Lance-bearers_, from the staves, or lances, which the inhabitants brandished.

During the night between the 22d and 23d they had much rain, accompanied with violent thunder, while the wind blew almost a tempest. At the dawn of the morning land was discovered, which appeared to be a regular level, sufficiently clothed with verdure. Breakers being observed on the coast, the ships stood out to sea, till the weather becoming more calm, they might approach the shore with greater safety, which happening before noon, they then coasted the island, which is shaped like a horse-shoe, and its inside is filled by the sea.

Some parts of this island produce cocoa-nut and other trees, which afford a very agreeable shade, but the greater part of it is only a sand, on which grows no kind of verdure. A number of Indians were observed in boats, some of them rowing, and others sailing, on the lake formed by the shape of the island. These people were all naked; and in the evening large numbers of them were seen on the sea-shore, with pikes in their hands, like those with which the inhabitants of the Isle of Lance-bearers were armed.

Night advanced before any proper place was found for the ship’s boats to land; nor were they more successful in their researches in the morning; wherefore they held on their course, Mons. Bougainville having called the place _Harp Island_; the inhabitants of which had the appearance of being tall, and genteelly made.

Our flippant Frenchman professes to admire the courage of these islanders, “if they live unconcerned on these little slips of sand,” which are every moment liable to be sunk in the abyss of an enormous ocean. He might as well admire the courage of the inhabitants of France, the redoubted vassals of _Louis le Grand_; who are not less liable to fall victims to a convulsion of nature, nor under the more immediate protection of the Almighty, than these harmless tenants of a solitary island; happily cut off, as they are, from an intercourse with the more polished barbarians of Europe!

In the evening of the day on which Harp Island was discovered, they had sight of other land, at the distance of something more than twenty miles, which had the appearance of being, what it afterwards was found to be, a cluster of islands, eleven of which were seen, and received the name of the _Dangerous Archipelago_. Our author conjectures, that they are more numerous, and observes, that it is dangerous sailing among them, as they are encompassed with shoals and breakers, through which a vessel ought to steer with peculiar care.

The ships now stood to the south, and by the 28th of the month were out of sight of all land. The cluster of islands above-mentioned were first discovered by _Quirôs_, in the year 1606, and were again visited by _Roggewein_, in the year 1722, who gave them the name of the _Labyrinth_.

Nothing material happened from this time till towards the end of March, when the weather was boisterous and stormy, to a very great degree, for several days successively; and the scurvy now began to attack several of the crew. To combat the ill effects of this disorder, every invalid received, daily, a pint of lemonade, in which was infused a powder, which had been frequently used with success during the voyage. About this time they were much in want of fresh water, which was procured by the distillation of sea-water, according to a process invented by Mons. Poissonier; and the water thus procured was used in boiling meat, and making broth. The bread was kneaded with salt-water.

A steep mountain, which appeared to be encompassed by the sea, was discovered on the second of April, and received the name of the _Boudoir_, or _Boudeuse Peak_, from that of Mons. Bougainville’s ship.--Bearing to the northward of this peak, they had sight of land, which extended farther than the eye could reach.

By this time it was become highly necessary for the ships to put in at some port, where they might obtain refreshments, and take in a supply of wood. For the greater part of this day the weather was wholly calm; but in the evening a breeze sprung up, which conveyed the ships near the newly-discovered land; but it was thought prudent to stand off and on for the night.

In the morning they had sight of more land to the northward, but were not able to distinguish whether it was another island, or a part of that which they had before seen.

In the night between the 3d and 4th of the month fires were observed on several places, from whence it was conjectured, that the country abounded with inhabitants. Just before sunrising on the 4th, it was discovered that the two lands, which had been supposed to be separate islands, were connected by a flat country, bending like a bow, and forming a fine bay. While the ships were standing in towards the land, a boat was seen coming from the offing, which soon afterwards crossed a head of the ship, and joined a number of other boats, which had assembled from various parts of the island. This assemblage of boats was preceded by one which was rowed by twelve Indians, quite naked, who advanced towards the side of the ship, and held up some boughs of the banana tree. Considering this as a token of friendship, our adventurers, in their turn, endeavoured to express a reciprocal regard.

This being done, the natives rowed alongside the Boudeuse, and a rope being lowered into the boat, one of them affixed to his branch of the banana tree, a quantity of the fruit of that tree, and a small pig. This present was accepted, and, in return for it, Mons. Bougainville gave them some handkerchiefs and caps; and thus was a friendly intercourse established with these people.

In a short time upwards of a hundred boats surrounded the French ships, which were laden with bananas, cocoa-nuts, and various other kinds of fruit, highly acceptable to the French, who gave in exchange for them a number of toys, which proved equally acceptable to the Indians.--In order to carry on this traffic, our voyagers held up such articles as they meant to give for the fruit, and when the natives were satisfied with the quantity which was offered, it was let down by the ship’s side in a net or basket, and the Indians having taken it out, returned their commodities by the same conveyance; but sometimes the basket was lowered when empty, and the natives put their effects in it before they had received the European goods, without seeming to harbour the least distrust or jealousy of those with whom they dealt; thereby giving the best proof of the integrity of their own hearts.

When the evening advanced, the ships stood out farther from the coast, and the natives rowed back to the shore. During the night a number of fires were seen on the island, at small, and nearly equal distances from each other, which the French imagining to be illuminations in honour of themselves, a number of sky-rockets were fired from both the ships, to return the compliment.

On the morning of the fifth the boats were sent in search of an anchoring-place, while the day was spent in plying to windward of the island.