Chapter XI: Part 11

From this voyage, however, we learn that the sea, from the north-east cape of Kamtschatka, is open to the isles of Japan, and from a subsequent account of Russian voyages, published in the Philosophical Transactions, from a paper communicated by the celebrated Euler, it appears, that they passed along in small vessels, coasting between Nova Zembla and the continent, at divers times in the middle of summer, when those seas were open. The first expedition was from the river Oby, latitude 66 degrees north, longitude 65 degrees east from London, and at the approach of winter, the vessels sheltered themselves by going up the Janiska, the mouth of which is marked in our maps in latitude 70 degrees north, and in longitude 82 degrees east; from whence the next summer they proceeded to the mouth of the Lena in latitude 72 degrees north, and in longitude 115 degrees, into which they again retired for the winter season. The third expedition was from the month of this river, to the farthest north cape of Asia, in 72 degrees of north latitude, and in 172 degrees of east longitude from London. Thus the Russians having passed between the continent and Nova Zembla, and sailed as far as the easternmost north cape, and the English and Dutch having repeatedly sailed through the straits that divide Nova Zembla from the continent, nothing can be a plainer demonstration of the reality of a north-east passage, than the sum of the voyages here enumerated, when added together. The English and Dutch sail to Wygatz, or the strait of Nova Zembla; the Russians sail from Wygatz to the north cape of Asia; and Behring from the north cape to Japan. This is an incontrovertible demonstration; yet it is obvious, that this course can never be practicable to ships employed in trade. The Russians, by taking the advantage of an open sea and mild weather, in three years time accomplished but part of a voyage, which, by the Cape of Good Hope, may be made in less than one. Who therefore would run the hazard of so desperate a passage, for the sake of reaping imaginary advantages by an intercourse with savages, who, for aught we know, have nothing to exchange for European commodities, but the skins of bears, or the bones of monsters.

But tho’ the passage to the northern countries of the east was known to be impracticable to European navigators in this direction, it was worthy the greatness of a maritime people, to endeavour to determine the possibility of attaining the same end by another course.

The miscarriage and death of Barentz, and the shipwreck of Capt. Wood, had left the question undetermined, whether the regions adjoining to the pole are land or water, frozen or open sea. The advantages from this discovery, besides the glory resulting from it, had the decision terminated in favour of navigation, would have been immensely great. To have opened a new channel of commerce at a time when our trade is languishing, would have revived the drooping hopes of our manufacturers, and retained at home the numerous emigrants, who, for want of employment in their own country, are seeking new habitations, and new means of living in remote settlements, of the certainty of which they have no experience.

It must be acknowledged to the lasting honour of the noble Lord who presides at the head of the admiralty board, and who patronized the undertaking, that the means to render it successful, was in every respect proportioned to the importance of the discovery.

The vessels that were made choice of were the properest that could be devised. Bomb ketches are in the first instance stoutly built, and not being over large, are best adapted for navigating seas that are known to abound with shoals and covered rocks: these vessels, besides their natural strength, were sheathed with plank of seasoned oak three inches thick, to fortify them against the shocks and pressure of the ice, that, in their progress, they must infallibly encounter. They were, besides, furnished with a double set of ice poles, anchors, cables, sails and rigging, to provide against the terrible effects of the severe and tempestuous weather, that frequently happens in high latitudes, even in the middle of the most temperate seasons.

Nor was his Lordship less careful to provide for the comfortable subsistance of the men, than for the preservation of their lives, by his wise directions in equipping their ships. His first care was, to issue orders for killing and curing a sufficient quantity of beef and pork in the best manner possible, that their provisions might be good and fresh; and his next, to cause one hundred buts of porter to be brewed with the best malt and hops, that they might have proper drink to fortify them against the rigour of the climate they were about to pass. Their pease, oatmeal, rice and molossus, were all provided with equal care, and when all things were in readiness, the beer was stowed in the holds, and the vacancies filled up with coals, which served as ballast, that firing might not be wanting to warm and dry them when cold, or wet with labour, or with watching. Add to this, that a double quantity of spirits were put on board, with a large proportion of wine, vinegar, mustard, &c. &c. and what, we believe, was never before thought of in the fitting out of any King’s ships, a considerable quantity of tea and sugar for the sick, in case any should be seized with that dreadful disorder, which rendered ship provisions loathsome to Capt. James’s men, who were constrained to winter in Charlton Island in 1632. These men fell sick and had sore mouths, and could neither eat beef, pork, fish, nor potage; the Surgeon was every morning and evening obliged to pick their teeth, and cut away the pieces of rotten flesh from their gums, yet they could eat nothing but bread pounded in a mortar, and fried in oil, on which they subsisted for several months. In case of accidents of this kind, and that tea should fail to answer the purposes of nourishment, a quantity of portable soup was likewise provided. And to compleat the whole, a stock of warm cloathing was laid in, consisting of six fearnought jackets for each man, two milled caps, two pair of fearnought trowsers, four pair of milled stockings, and an excellent pair of boots, with a dozen pair of milled mitts, two cotton shirts, and two handkerchiefs.

Thus equipped and provided, the command of the Race Horse was given to the Hon. Constantine Phipps, as Commodore, and that of the Carcarse to Capt. Skiffington Lutwych; the first mounting eight six pounders and fourteen swivels, burthen three hundred and fifty tons; the latter four six pounders and fourteen swivels, burthen three hundred tons.

Thus being premised, let us now proceed to the Journal of the Voyage.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE
TO DISCOVER THE
NORTH EAST PASSAGE;
UNDER THE COMMAND OF
THE HON. COMMODORE PHIPPS,
AND
CAPT. SKIFFINGTON LUTWYCH,
IN HIS
MAJESTY’S SHIPS RACE HORSE AND CARCASE BOMBS.

All things being now in readiness, the officers on board, and the men paid their bounty-money of three pounds per man, according to his Majesty’s royal proclamation, for the encouragement of those who should voluntarily enter to undertake the voyage. On the 3d of June 1773, the Commodore made the signal to weigh; but previous to their departure, the Carcase having been judged too deep to navigate those heavy seas through which she was to pass, the Captain obtained leave from the board of Admiralty to re-land ten of her compliment of men, and to put ashore six of the eight six-pounders with which she was equipped, with a quantity of provisions, proportioned to the number of men that it had been thought proper to discharge.

On Friday the 4th being off Sheerness, the wind west by north, and a fresh breeze, they took their departure, and continued their voyage without any material occurrence happening till Tuesday the 15th, when the Commodore made the signal to lie to. They were then off Brassey Island, and many fishing-boats from Shetland being in sight, the men were invited on board, and some fish purchased of them at a cheap rate.

On the 17th they took a new departure from Shetland, but the day following the fog thickened so much, that it almost approached to total darkness. During the continuance of the fog, the Commodore kept firing guns and beating drums, to prevent the Carcase from losing company. As it was impossible that one could see the other at a ship’s length, it was found the more necessary to repeat and return the firing, lest they should run foul of each other before they could be apprized of their danger. About five in the morning the mist cleared up, and about nine the Commodore being in sight, made the signal to the Carcase to steer north-east. They were then in latitude 60 degrees 52 minutes north by observation; the north end of Shetland Island bearing north by west one half west, seven or eight leagues.

On the 17th they observed a sail to the north-east, which the Commodore brought to, and spoke with. The breeze fresh, the weather hazy, and the wind variable, the Carcase carried away her main-top-mast studding sail yard; which, however, was very soon supplied. Latitude this day by observation 62 degrees 53 minutes north.

Friday the 18th, being in the latitude of 65 degrees 9 minutes north, the cloathing allowed by the Government, of which notice has already been taken in the Introduction, was delivered out, and officers as well as men received their full proportion. This day the weather continued as before.

Saturday the 19th the weather varied to every point of the compass, the Commodore brought to, and spoke with the Carcase. Made sail about three in the morning, and at nine a large swell. Tacked and stood to the eastward. Latitude 66 degrees 1 minute north; longitude from London 33 minutes west.

Sunday the 20th they pursued their course to the eastward, with the wind north-west, but variable; high breezes and clear air. They were now within the Polar circle, and at midnight had an observation of the sun, and found their latitude 66 degrees 52 minutes north. Sounded on board the Commodore with a lead of one hundred weight, and a line of seven hundred and eighty fathom, to which was fastened a thermometer of Lord George Cavendish’s construction. They found no bottom, but the water was eleven degrees colder at that depth than on the surface. The Carcase sounded with four hundred and fifty fathoms only.

Monday 21, light breezes and cloudy weather. They observed a whale on the north-east quarter, the first they had yet seen in the north seas. The weather now began to set in severe; the nights cold and the days cloudy. The Commodore observing a whaling snow with Hamborough colours flying, fired a shot, and brought her to. She happened to be homeward bound with seals, and Mr. Wyndham, a gentleman of fortune, who had embarked on board the Commodore, with a view to prosecute the voyage, finding nothing but foul weather and heavy seas, to gratify his curiosity, and being withal unable to endure the sea sickness, took passage on board the Hamburgher, in order to return home; and having taken leave of his friends, by wishing them a happy voyage, the Snow’s boat took him on board, about seven in the morning, and at eight the Commodore and Carcase pursued their voyage.

Tuesday 22, the articles of war were read on board the Carcase. The weather began to be piercing cold; they had reached the 70th degree of north latitude, in a course nearly north, being only 14 minutes to the eastward of London; and from their leaving Shetland to this day, they had seen nothing remarkable; nor had any accident befallen either of the ships worth relating, except that of now and then snapping a rope, or breaking a yard; incidents easily repaired. This day it poured with rain; the air was thick, and the rain froze as it fell. Saw a large ship to the north-west, standing southward, but wanting no information that she could give, they pursued their voyage without speaking to her.

Wednesday 23, the rain continued; the weather hazy; heard three guns fire at a distance, but saw no ship or other object. The whales are here in no great plenty, and few ships appear in the open sea in pursuit of them. They generally at this season frequent the bays and creeks near the shore, and only break away when they are pursued or wounded.

On Thursday the 24th, the Commodore changed his course to east north-east; and on the 25th they were in latitude 74 degrees 7 minutes north, and in 8 degrees 32 minutes east longitude from London. Served out to the ship’s company plenty of mustard, pepper, vinegar, &c. The weather extremely cold and variable. At eight in the evening thick fog; at two in the morning fresh breezes; at eight clear weather; at eleven squally; and at noon calm, with sleet and snow.

On Saturday the 26th, at midnight, they had an observation, and found themselves in latitude 74 degrees 17 minutes north; fresh gales, sometimes rain, sleet, and snow; at seven in the morning clear weather and an open sea.

Sunday 27, light airs from the southward, and cloudy weather; much warmer than the preceding day. It is remarkable, that the vicissitudes of heat and cold are more frequent here than in the more southerly latitudes. It often changes from temperate to extreme cold; and that suddenly.

It should seem likewise, that the ice frequently changes its place in this latitude; or that it is more solid near land than in the open sea; for, on the 23d of June 1676, Capt. Wood, being more to the eastward, fell in with ice right a-head, not more than a league distant. He steered along it, thinking it had openings, but found them to be bays. He sounded, and found ground at one hundred and fifty-eight fathom, soft green oar. In some places he found pieces of ice driving off a mile from the main body in strange shapes, resembling ships, trees, buildings, beasts, fishes, and even men. The main body of ice being low and craggy, he could see hills of a blue colour at a distance, and valleys that were white as snow. In some places he observed drift wood among the ice. Some of the ice he melted, and found it fresh and good. This navigator never could advance farther to the north; but in seeking to penetrate the ice was ship-wrecked, as has been already related in the Introduction. He therefore judged the ice impenetrable, and that land or ice surrounded the pole. Our navigators found also much wood in this latitude floating about the ships, and saw great flocks of birds.

Monday 28, the weather altered; the wind west. Fresh breezes, with rain and sleet. Latter part thick fog.

Tuesday 29, being in latitude 78 degrees north, and in longitude 6 degrees 29 minutes east from London, came in sight of land, when the ships brought to, and the Captains held a consultation concerning their future course. The appearance of the land lay from east south-east to north-east; and this day they spoke with the Marquis of Rockingham, Greenlandman, who, by their reckoning, were then in latitude 79 degrees 40 minutes north, though by that of the Commodore, their latitude was only 78 degrees 3 minutes. This difference, it is probable, arises from not making the proper allowance for refraction in this high latitude. The Greenlandman presented each of the Commanders with a deer and a half, which they found well-flavoured venison, though not over fat. He likewise informed, that he had just come from the ice, and that the day before, three whalers had been crushed to pieces by its closing upon them suddenly.

Wednesday 30, pursued their course. Cloudy weather. Half past four in the morning sounded, one hundred and twelve fathoms soft blue mud. At this time Black Point, so called from its dark appearance, bore north-east by east three quarters east, at the distance of seven or eight leagues. At half past seven, in the morning, saw two sail in the north-west quarter. At half past twelve tacked and stood to the east. Sounded, and found ground at one hundred and fifteen fathom.

Thursday July 1, light breezes and clear weather at midnight: the sun as bright as at noon day. Black Point east one half south, distant seven leagues. At three in the morning made Charles’s Island, and at nine saw a sail to the westward whaleing; they were then in latitude 78 degrees 18 minutes north, by observation. Sounded, and found the same depth as before.

Friday 2, light airs and moderate weather. Lay to and took the altitude of a mountain, which they named Mount Parnassus; found it from the level of the sea to be three thousand nine hundred and sixty feet high, covered with snow, and at a distance resembling an ancient building, with something like a turret a-top. The foot of this mountain, with the hills adjoining, have sometimes a very fiery appearance, and the ice and snow on their sides resembling trees and shrubs, glissen with a brilliancy that exceed the splendor of the brightest gems. When this happens, a violent storm generally succeeds. Here they shot some sea fowl, but of an oily taste.

Saturday 3, proved a perfect calm. They spoke with a Hollander, who foretold, that a degree or two farther north was the utmost extent of their progress this season. Having doubled Cape Cold, they anchored in fifteen fathom water, about three miles from the land, and sent the boats ashore for water, which they found in abundance, pouring down in little streams from the rocks. At five in the afternoon, by the mean of four azimuths, the variation was found to be 18 degrees 36 minutes west. Sounded, and found only sixty-five fathoms, soft brown mud. Mount Parnassus east-north-east three or four leagues.--Among other reasons which Capt. Wood gave for wishing to be employed on the discovery of the north-east passage, one was, that he might have an opportunity of approaching the pole, in order to settle an hypothesis, which he had long framed, whereby the inclination of the magnetical needle under the horizon, in all latitudes and in all longitudes, with the variation of the compass, might be exactly determined. This navigator imagined two magnetical poles to exist; and that, by approaching the one, he should be able to determine the action of the other. It does not appear, that he ever explained his hypothesis; and there never has been but one man, whose name was Williams, since his time, who pretended to know any thing of the matter.

Saturday 4, light breezes and hazey weather. Sounded, and only twenty fathoms deep; rocky ground. Hacluit’s Headland, or the northernmost point of Spitsbergen, bearing north by east seven leagues. Many whalers in sight. Latitude by observation 79 degrees 34 minutes north, longitude from London 8 degrees 10 minutes east. Thermometer forty-seven.

Monday 5, at two in the afternoon sounded, and only fifteen fathom water; rocky ground. Thick fog. The Race Horse fired guns as signals to keep company, which were answered by the Carcase. A dreadful crackling was heard at a distance, which proved the dashing and grinding of the loose pieces of ice against each other, which is heard at many leagues distance. Hacluit’s Headland south-east by south, distance six or seven leagues.

Tuesday 6, proved very foggy, the breezes slight, and islands of ice beginning to appear. At three in the afternoon the Commodore hauled up from a large body of packed ice, and the fog thickening, both ships kept firing volleys of small arms, to prevent their losing company. At half past ten in the evening, the extremes of the ice stretching from north-west to east-north-east, the Commodore bore away; and at half past twelve lost sight of it. At half past one in the morning heard a violent surf to the south-east. At two tacked and stood to the westward. At half past five the fog gathering, they began firing volleys of small arms. At six saw the ice stretching from east by south, to north by east; and at seven was within sight of land. At ten Cloven Cliff stood east-south-east, distant about five or six leagues.

Wednesday the 7th, the weather cloudy. They found themselves beset among the loose ice, which increasing continually, gave them incredible trouble. Observing that it thickened to the eastward, they hauled up, and stood to the westward; but in tacking, they were in danger of running foul. It was with difficulty they could keep any course, for the driffs of ice came so thick, as to whirl the ships about, as if in a whirl-pool.

Thursday 8, the weather still remaining cloudy, and the wind variable, both ships still were entangled in the ice; and the Carcase being driven to leeward, hoisted out her long-boat to tow up with the Commodore. But the ice closing very fast, it was impossible for the boats to live. Orders were then given to tack and stand to the southward; but the ships not being able to make head against the accumulation of ice that continually gathered round them, were under a necessity of applying to their ice-anchors and poles, in order to warp through it. At half past eight in the evening, the ice beginning to open, they again hoisted out their boats, and with difficulty towed the ships round a cape of ice projecting from the main body, and at last got clear. At ten the boats were hoisted on board. In extricating themselves from this dangerous situation, the Race Horse had her best bower-anchor snapt in the shank, close to the stock, and the Carcase lost her starboard bumpkin and head-rails.

It frequently happens, that ships beset among the ice in the manner above related, perish by being dashed to pieces against the solid fields of ice, or crushed by the broken pieces crowding upon one another, and rising so fast about the ship, as to exceed the height of her sides, and then there is no escaping. They were told by some experienced seamen, that the ice rises out of the sea as high sometimes as mountains; and that several of these mountains, by striking together and coalescing, form these islands of ice that are frequently seen in the lower latitudes, driving up and down the sea as the wind and tides direct them.

The greatest danger to be apprehended, is, however, from the loose ice; for the whalers often moor their ships to the solid fields of ice, that at certain seasons seem to rest upon the earth, and appear fixed to it, and there find the best fishing. In such situations it often happens, that little or no loose ice is to be seen; yet presently upon a change of wind, or the blowing of a storm, it shall pour in upon them so suddenly, that they sometimes perish in it. It is not possible to account for the astonishing quantity that will gather in this manner in less than an hour’s time.

Though it seems to be agreed, that many of the largest fields of ice are frozen to the depth of the sea in which they are found, and that they are bedded on the solid earth, yet it is equally certain, that they are often rent asunder by the raging billows; and that in breaking, they produce the most terrifying noise in nature; nay, it is asserted, that the clashing of the pieces of loose ice against each other, on any extraordinary agitation of the waves, is attended with a roaring so loud, that a man who is near it can hardly hear the sound of his own voice.

Friday the 9th, they hauled up to the westward, and lost sight one of the other; but about nine next morning they came in sight, and joined company. The weather being now piercing cold, the people had an additional quantity of porter and brandy delivered to them; two quarts of porter and a pint of brandy being now every man’s daily allowance.

Saturday July the 10th, the breeze fresh, and the weather cloudy. They sailed between numberless pieces of ice, among which they saw several whales, but none of the whalers in pursuit of them. The ice now becoming solid and compact, they found it impracticable to continue their course. And the discovery of a passage to the pole in that direction (upon holding a consultation) appearing impracticable to every officer on board of both ships, the Commodore, at seven in the evening, hauled close to the wind; and the Carcase, as soon as she could extricate herself, followed his example. The weather continuing foggy, with rain and snow, the sailors were almost worn out with turning and winding; and although they used the utmost precaution in working through the narrows, yet they could not always avoid striking against the mountains that every where surrounded them. During this night’s work, they steered a hundred different courses, to follow the channels.

Sunday 11, having worked out of the ice, they sailed along the main body, which appeared perfectly solid and compact, without any passage or inlet. This immense mass of ice extended north-east, as far as they could see from the mast-head; and, no doubt, might be a continuation of that in which they were engaged a few days before. The sea was now tolerably clear, for they met with no more fields, and only a few detached islands. At half past one in the morning they saw the land from south by west, to south-south-east. At three in the morning they tacked; Cloven Cliff bearing south-south-east six miles. At seven tacked again. At eight the Commodore bore away, and the Carcase stood after him. Cloven Cliff south one half west, two or three leagues, latitude 79 degrees 56 minutes north.

Monday 12, at eight in the evening Cloven Cliff bearing west-south-west four or five miles, they sounded in fifteen fathoms water, and found a rocky bottom. Saw several English and Dutch Greenlanders at anchor in the Norways: That being their rendezvous to the northward, they never chuse to proceed farther. Here they found the current setting so fast to eastward, that they were forced to come to an anchor to keep from drifting on the ice; the swell from westward being so great, that had that happened, it would of consequence have staved the ships. At five in the morning a breeze from north-north-east springing up, they weighed, and made sail. At eight Hacluit’s Headland west-south-west one half west, six or seven leagues, at noon latitude 80 degrees 2 minutes north.

Tuesday 13, the weather being clear and calm, and a strong easterly current setting in, at eight in the evening they came to with their stream anchors and hausers in forty fathoms water but at nine a breeze springing up from the eastward, they weighed, and next day came to an anchor in Smearingburgh Harbour. Cloven Cliff east one half south one mile. West point of Voogle land north-north-west one half west, distant one mile and a half; soundings fifteen fathom sandy bottom.

Here they remained between five and six days to take in fresh water, during which time our journalist was employed in surveying the country, which to a stranger had a very awful and romantic appearance.

The country is stoney, and as far as can be seen full of mountains, precipices and rocks. Between these are hills of ice, generated, as it should seem, by the torrents that flow from the melting of the snow on the sides of those towering elevations, which being once congealed, are continually increased by the snow in winter, and the rain in summer, which often freezes as soon as it falls. By looking on these hills, a stranger may fancy a thousand different shapes of trees, castles, churches, ruins, ships, whales, monsters, and all the various forms that fill the universe. Of the ice-hills there are seven, that more particularly attract the notice of a stranger. These are known by the name of the seven iceburgs, and are thought to be the highest of the kind in that country. When the air is clear, and the sun shines full upon these mountains, the prospect is inconceivably brilliant. They sometimes put on the bright glow of the evening rays of the setting sun, when reflected upon glass, at his going down; sometimes they appear of a bright blue, like sapphire, and sometimes like the variable colours of a prism, exceeding in lustre the richest gems in the world, disposed in shapes wonderful to behold, all glittering with a lustre that dazzles the eye, and fills the air with astonishing brightness.

Smearingburgh harbour, where they landed, was first discovered by the Dutch. Here they erected sheds and conveniences for boiling the oil from the fat of the whales, instead of barrelling it up to be boiled at home. Here also, allured by the hope of gain, they built a village, and endeavoured to fix a colony: but the first settlers all perished in the ensuing winter. The remains of the village may be traced to this day; and their stoves, kettles, kardels, troughs, ovens, and other implements, remained in the shape of solid ice long after the utensils themselves were decayed. Our voyagers were told, that the Russians have lately attempted the same thing, and that ten out of fifteen perished last winter in this second attempt.

Where every object is new, it is not easy for a stranger to fix which first to admire. The rocks are striking objects: before a storm they exhibit a fiery appearance, and the sun looks pale upon them, the snow giving the air a bright reflection. Their summits are almost always involved in clouds, so that it is but just possible to see the tops of them. Some of these rocks are but one stone from bottom to top, appearing like an old decayed ruin. Others consist of huge masses, veined differently, like marble, with red, white, and yellow, and probably, were they to be sawed and polished, would equal, if not excel, the finest Egyptian marble we now so much admire. Perhaps the distance and danger of carrying large blocks of stones, may be the reason that no trials have been made to manufacture them. On the southerly and westerly sides of these rocks grow all the plants, herbs, and mosses peculiar to this country; on the northerly and easterly sides the wind strikes so cold when it blows from these quarters, that it perishes every kind of vegetable. These plants grow to perfection in a very short time. Till the middle of May the whole country is locked up in ice; about the beginning of July the plants are in flower, and about the latter end of the same month, or beginning of August, they have perfected their seed. The earth owes its fertility, in a great measure, to the dung of birds, who build and breed their young here in the summer, and in the winter repair to more favourable climates.

The plants that are most common in Spitsbergen are scurvy-grass and crows-foot; there are besides small house-leak, and a plant with aloe-leaves; an herb like stone-crop; some small snake-weed; mouse-ear; wood-strawbery; periwinkle; and a herb peculiar to the country which they call the rock-plant. The leaves of this plant are in shape like a man’s tongue, above six feet long, of a dull yellow colour. The stalk is round and smooth, and of the same colour with the leaf; it rises tapering, and smells like muscles. It is an aquatic, and rises in height in proportion to the depth of water in which it is found. There are other plants and herbs, but these are the chief. Of flowers, the white poppy seems the principal.

The rocks and precipices are full of fissures and clefts, which afford convenient harbour for birds to lay their eggs, and breed their young in safety. Most of these birds are water-fowl, and seek their food in the sea. Some, indeed, are birds of prey; and pursue and kill others for their own sustenance, but these are rare. The water-fowl eat strong and fishy, and their fat is not to be endured. They are so numerous about the rocks, as sometimes to darken the air when they rise in flocks; and they scream so horribly, that the rocks ring with their noise.

There are a few small birds like our snipes, and a kind of snow-bird, but different from that found about Hudson’s bay. The gentlemen shot some of the water-fowl, but they were strong and ill-tasted.

The ice-bird is a very beautiful little bird, but very rare. He is in size and shape like a turtle-dove, but his plumage, when the sun shines upon him, is of a bright yellow, like the golden ring in the peacock’s tail, and almost dazzles the eye to look upon it.

The other inhabitants of this forlorn country are white bears, deer, and foxes. How these creatures can subsist in the winter, when the whole earth is covered with snow, and the sea locked up in ice, is hardly to be conceived. It has been said, indeed, that when the ocean is all frozen over, and no sustenance to be procured in this country, they travel southerly to the warmer climates, where food proper for them abounds in the immense forests of the northern continent. But whoever considers the vast distance between Spitsbergen and the nearest parts of the northern continent, will be as much at a loss to account for the subsistence of these creatures in their journey, as in the desolate region where they undoubtedly remain. The bear is by far the best accommodated to the climate of which he is an inhabitant. He is equally at home on land and water, and hunts diligently for his prey in both. In summer he finds plenty of food from the refuse of the whales, sea-horses and seals, which is thrown into the sea by the whalers, and cover the shores during the time of whaling; and they have besides a wonderful sagacity in smelling out the carcases of the dead, let them be ever so deeply buried in the earth, or covered with stones. The dead therefore that annually are buried here may contribute, in some degree, to the subsistence of a few of these creatures in winter; but the question will still recur, how the race of them subsisted before the whale-fishery had existence, and before men found the way to this inhospitable shore. Disquisitions of this kind, as they are beyond the reach of human comprehension, serve only to raise our admiration of that omnipotent Being to whom nothing is impossible.

These creatures, as they differ in nothing but their colour and size from those commonly shewn in England, need no description.

The foxes differ little in shape from those we are acquainted with, but in colour there is no similitude. Their heads are black, and their bodies white. As they are beasts of prey, if they do not provide in summer for the long recess of winter, it were, one would think, almost impossible for them to survive; yet they are seen in plenty, though, by their subtlety and swiftness, they are not easy to be catched.

The Dutch seamen report, that when they are hungry they will feign themselves dead, and when the ravenous birds come to feed upon them, they rise and make them their prey.

But the most wonderful thing of all is, how the deer can survive an eight months famine. Like ours they feed upon nothing that can be perceived, but the vegetables which the earth spontaneously produces; and yet for eight months in the year, the earth produces neither plant, herb, shrub, or blade of any kind of grass whatever. They are, besides, but thinly cloathed for so severe a climate, and what seems still worse, there is not a bush to be seen to shelter them, within the distance that any man has yet discovered. The means of their subsistence must therefore remain among the secrets of nature, never to be disclosed, as no human being can ever live here, so as to be able to trace these creatures to their winter’s residence.

Amphibious creatures abound the most about the sounds and bays of Spitsbergen, and they seem best adapted to endure the climate. These are the seals, or sea dogs, and morses, or sea horses; of which the whalers avail themselves, when disappointed in compleating their lading with the fat of whales.

The seal is sufficiently known; but the sea-horse, as it is a creature peculiar to high latitudes, is therefore more rare. It is not easy to say how he came by his name; for there is no more likeness between a sea-horse and a land-horse, than there is between a whale and an elephant. The sea-horse is not unlike the seal in shape. He has a large round head, larger than that of a bull, but shaped more like that of a pug-dog without ears, than any other animal we are acquainted with. He tapers all the way down to the tail, like the fish we call a lump, and his size is equal to that of the largest sized ox. His tusks close over his under jaw, like those of a very old boar, and are in length from one foot to two or more, in proportion to the size and age of the animal that breeds them. His skin is thicker than that of a bull, and covered with short mouse-coloured hair, which is sleeker and thicker, just as he happens to be in or out of season when he is caught. His paws, before and behind, are like those of a mole, and serve him for oars when he swims, and for legs to crawl when he goes upon the ice, or on shore. He is a fierce animal, but being unweildy when on land, or on the ice, is easily overcome.

These animals are always found in herds, sometimes of many hundreds together, and if one is attacked, the rest make a common cause, and stand by one another till the last gasp. If they are attacked in the water, they will fight desperately, and will even attempt the boats of their pursuers, if any of them are wounded, and not mortally. Some of them have been known to make holes in the bottom of the boat with their tusks, in defence of their young. Their eyes are large, and they have two holes in the upper part of the neck, out of which they eject the water, in like manner as it is ejected by whales.

Though the sea about Spitsbergen is full of fish, yet they rather appear to be designed by Providence for the sustenance of one another, than for the food of man. The mackarel, of which there are no great plenty, seem not only to be the most wholesome, and the most palatable, but also the most beautiful. They seem to be a different species to those caught upon our coasts. The upper part of the back is of a vivid blue; the other part as low as the belly of a gem-like green on an azure ground. Underneath the belly the colour is a transparent white, and the fins shine like polished silver. All the colours glow when alive in the sea with such a richness, that fancy can hardly form to itself any thing in nature more beautiful. Almost all the other fish on this coast are of an oily nature, and of a very indifferent flavour.

The saw, or sword fish, is remarkable not only for the oddity of his shape, but also for his enmity to the whale. This fish takes his name from a broad flat bone, in length from two to four feet, which projects from his nose, and tapers to a point. On each side, it has teeth like a comb, at the distance of a finger’s breadth asunder. He is also furnished with a double row of fins, and is of astonishing strength in the water. His length from ten to twenty feet. He seems to be formed for war, and war is his profession. The conflict betwixt him and the whale is dreadful, yet he never gives over till his sword is broken, or he comes off victorious.

The whale is a harmless fish, and is never known to fight but in his own defence. Yet when he is exasperated, he rages dreadfully. Though from his magnitude, he may be called the sovereign of the seas; yet, like other sovereigns, he is liable to be vexed and hurt by the meanest reptiles. The whale’s louse is a most tormenting little animal. Its scales are as hard as those of our prawns; its head is like the louse’s head, with four horns, two that serve as feelers, the other two are hard, and curved, and serve as clenchers to fix him to the whale. On his chest, underneath, he has two carvers, like scythes, with which he collects his food, and behind these are four feet, that serve him for oars. He has, moreover, six other clenchers behind, with which he can rivet himself so closely to his prey, that he can no otherwise be disengaged, but by cutting out the whole piece to which he is joined. He is jointed on the back like the tail of a lobster, and his tail covers him like a shield when he is feeding. He fixes himself on the tenderest parts of the whale’s body, between his fins, on his sheath, and on his lips, and eats pieces out of his flesh, as if eaten by vultures.

They found no springs of fresh-water in Spitsbergen; but in the valleys, between the mountains, are many little rills caused by the rain and melting of the snow in summer; and from these rills the ships are supplied. Some are of opinion, that this water is unwholesome, but they are more nice than wise. The whaling people have drank of it for ages, and have found no ill effects from the use of it. Ice taken up in the middle of these seas and thawed, yields also good fresh water.

On board the Race Horse, Dr. Irvine, the gentleman who received the premium by a grant of parliament, for his discovery of an easy process for making salt-water fresh at sea, tried many experiments at Spitsbergen, and in the course of the voyage; the result of which will appear at a proper time. That gentleman had formed a project for preserving flesh meat fresh and sweet in long voyages, but it did not answer in this.

In calm weather they remarked, that the sea about the islands appeared uncommonly still and smooth; that it was not suddenly moved at the first approach of blowing weather; but that when the storm continued, the waves swelled gradually, and rose to an incredible height.--These swelling waves successively follow one another, and roll along before the wind, foaming and raging in a frightful manner, yet they are thought less dangerous than those that break short, and are less mountainous.

They observed likewise, that the ice that rested on the ground was not stationary, but that it changed place; and they learnt also, that in some seasons there was no ice, where this season they were in danger of being embayed. There does not, however, from thence appear the least reason to conclude, that any practicable passage to the Indian ocean can ever be found in this direction; for were it certain that the seas were always open under the pole, yet great bulwarks of ice evidently surround it, sometimes at a less, and sometimes at a greater distance. Moreover, were it possible that chance should direct some fortunate adventurer to an opening at one time, it would be more than a million to one, if the same opening were passable to the next who should attempt it.

There are many harbours about Spitsbergen, besides that of Smearingburg, where ships employed in the whale fishery take shelter in stormy weather; and there are some islands, such as Charles’s Island, the Clifted Rock, Red-Hill, Hacluit’s Headland, &c. that serve as landmarks, by which seamen direct their course. These islands are full of the nests of birds; but their eggs are as nauseous as the flesh of the fowls that lay them. The sailors sometimes eat them, but they are filthy food. Even the geese and ducks on the neighbouring islands eat fishy and strong.

The air about Spitsbergen is never free from icicles. If you look through the sun-beams transversely as you sit in the shade, or where you see the rays confined in a body, instead of dark motes, as are seen here, you see myriads of shining particles that sparkle like diamonds; and when the sun shines hot, as it sometimes does, so as to melt the tar in the seams of ships when they lie sheltered from the wind, these shining atoms seem to melt away, and descend like dew.

It is seldom that the air continues clear for many days together in this climate; when that happens, the whalers are generally successful. There is no difference between night and day in the appearance of the atmosphere about Spitsbergen, one being as light as the other, only when the sun is to the northward, you may look at him with the naked eye, as at the moon, without dazzling. The fogs here come on so suddenly, that from bright sun-shine, you are presently involved in such obscurity, that you can hardly see from one end of the ship to the other.

While our journalist was busy in making his observations, all belonging to the ships were differently engaged in one employment or other; some in taking in water, some in fishing, some in hunting, some in handing the sails, and spreading them out to dry, some in scrubbing the ship, and some in viewing the country. The Commanders and officers, with Mr. Lyon, Mr. Robinson, &c. busied themselves in making observations, being furnished with an apparatus, that is said to have cost at least one thousand five hundred pounds. From such a set of instruments, in the hands of the ablest observers, the nation can boast, some very considerable discoveries in the phenomena of the polar regions may be expected. They landed their instruments in a small island, in Vogle Sound, and had several opportunities during their stay of using them to advantage. Having erected two tents, the Captains from the fishery frequently visited the observers, and expressed their admiration not only at the perfection of the instruments, but likewise at the dexterity with which they were accommodated.

The ice began to set in a-pace, yet the weather was hot. The thermometer from fifty-six in the cabin rose to ninety in the open air. It was still ten degrees higher on the top of a mountain to which it was carried. The island on which the experiments were made, they called Marble Island, from the rock by which it is formed. Having watered, and finished their observations, the ships prepared to depart.

Monday July the 19th, the Commodore made the signal to weigh; at two in the afternoon the ships were under sail, and as soon as they had made their offing, stood to the eastward. At three they tacked and steered northward; and before four were again entangled among the loose ice, through which they sailed, directing their course along the main body, which lay from north-west to south-south-east.

Tuesday the 20th, they continued their course along the ice, but could discover no opening, though they searched every creek, and left no bay or turning unexamined. This day they observed what the sailors call a mock-sun, a phænomenon well enough known in this climate. Hacluit’s Headland bore south-west one half south forty-six leagues; the weather cloudy, with rain; excessive cold. Thermometer 37 degrees 46 minutes.

Wednesday the 21st, the severity of the weather increasing, an additional quantity of brandy was served out to the people, and every comfortable refreshment afforded them, that they themselves could wish or require. The course of the ice lay this day north-east.

Thursday 22, nothing remarkable.

Friday the 23d, they saw land from east by south, to south-east by south. At four in the morning, Hacluit’s Headland bore south-east ten leagues; the wind variable, and the weather cold, with sleet and snow. Thermometer 40 degrees.

Sunday 25, they had gentle breezes, with cloudy weather, and were engaged among some pieces of ice, separated from the main body, which kept them continually tacking and luffing. At length they entered among mountains and islands of ice, which came upon them so fast, that it was with the utmost difficulty they could proceed; the Carcase having several times struck against them with such violence, as to raise her head four feet out of the water. They now imagined, from the solidity and extent of these islands, that the late strong gales had caused a separation from the main body, the Commodore therefore changed his course with a strong gale to the eastward; in the morning the weather became moderate.

Monday 26, at seven in the morning, they came in sight of Red-hill, a small mount which commands an open plain, known by the name of Deers-field, by reason of its fertile appearance, it being the only spot on which they saw no drifts of snow. To the eastward lies Muffin’s Island. Here they sounded, and found forty-five fathom water; rocky ground. Capt. Lutwich sent out the long-boat, with orders to sound along the shore, and to examine the soil. This island is about a mile long, very low, and looks at a distance like a black speck. Though the soil is mostly sand and loose stones, and hardly so much as a green weed upon it, yet it is remarkable for the number of birds that resort to it in summer to lay their eggs, and breed their young; and these not of one kind only, but of many different sorts, as geese, ducks, burgomasters, ice-birds, malamucks, kirmews, rotgers, and almost every other species of birds peculiar to the climate; insomuch, that the eggs were so numerous, and lay so thick upon the ground, that the men who landed found it difficult to walk without filling their shoes.