Chapter IV: Part 4

No time was lost in sending the boats on shore, and they returned in a few hours, with oranges, limes, and cocoa-nuts. Tents were erected for the sick, who were sent on shore with all expedition. The smith’s forge, and carpenter’s chest were also landed; and the Captain and first Lieutenant, who both continued ill, went on shore, with a party of men to hunt for cattle. A young bull of great weight was soon catched; and they found plenty of oranges, limes, and bread-fruit. On the 21st they began the necessary repairs of the ship. The fatigue sustained by those who went to hunt for cattle was so great, by going many miles thro’ thickets, that one party was ordered to relieve another; and the second Lieutenant with several of the men, being sent to reside on the north part of the island, where cattle were most plentiful, a boat was sent daily to bring in what they catched. In this island they procured beef, pork, poultry, papaw-apples, and all the other refreshments, of which an account is given in Anson’s Voyage.

By the 15th of October the fruit and water was carried on board, and all the sick being recovered, preparations were made for sailing; and on the next day they left the bay, and sailed to the west.

On the 21st and 22d they saw several gannets, and other birds; and on the 23d and two following days it blew a violent storm, the effects of which were the more dreaded, as the ship admitted more water than she had done at any time during the voyage. The bad weather continued on the 26th, when they saw several land-birds. They had now to encounter the united horrors of thunder, lightning, rain, darkness, and such a violent sea, as broke even the iron work on the gun-whale, and washed over-board many heavy things. On the 27th they were blest with a sight of the sun, and the day following the weather became more temperate. In the middle of the night one Morgan, a taylor, was suddenly missed, and it was thought he fell over-board in a fit of intoxication.

On the 3d of November they discovered three islands, which were named SANDY ISLE, SMALL KEY, and LONG ISLAND; and on the day following they saw another, to which captain Wallis gave the name of NEW ISLAND; all of which islands are in ten degrees odd minutes north-latitude, and 247 degrees odd minutes west-longitude. The ship held her course till the 8th, on which day the log and journal-books of the voyage were taken from the inferior officers and foremast-men.

They now altered their course, and on the 13th saw the islands of Timoun, Aros and Pesang. On the 16th they crossed the equinoctial line, and came again into south-latitude. The next day they saw the islands of Pulo Toté, and Pulo Weste; soon after which they had sight of the seven islands. A singular incident happened in the succeeding night, which was very tempestuous, and so dark, that they could not see across the ship. During the full violence of the wind, a flash of lightning afforded them light enough to see a ship of considerable size, which was so near, that it was with difficulty they steered clear of her; but they could not get information to what nation she belonged, as the wind was too loud for them to hear each other. This was the first ship they had seen since they parted from the Swallow. In the morning they saw the Island of Pulo Taya, near which they came to an anchor in the evening; and the next morning sailed again, and saw two ships a-head of them, but the current was so strong that they lost ground, and therefore they again anchored in the evening. The next day they lost an anchor, the cable of which was cut away by the rocks. On the 22d they saw the coast of Sumatra, and came to an anchor in the road of Batavia, on the 30th of November 1767.

On the following day captain Wallis saluted the Dutch governor with 13 guns, and the compliment was returned from the fort with one additional gun. Permission having been obtained to purchase necessaries, they were soon supplied with beef and vegetables. The crew were now threatened with punishment, if any attempt should be made to bring liquor aboard; and no man was permitted to leave the ship, but those who were called by duty; and even those were not suffered to go into the town.--The intemperate use of arrack is highly pernicious to strangers who visit Batavia.

His Majesty’s ship the Falmouth was at this time laying in the road, but in so shattered a condition, that it was thought she could not hold together during the next monsoon; nor were the few of her crew which remained alive in any better condition than the vessel. On the 5th of December captain Wallis received a petition from the warrant officers of the Falmouth, setting forth, that their powder had been thrown into the sea, by order of the Dutch, and that the gunner was dead; that their misfortunes had deprived the boatswain of his senses, and that he was then a lunatic in the Dutch hospital; that his stores were all spoiled; that the cook had been wounded, and remained a cripple; and that the carpenter was near death.--They therefore petitioned that the Captain would carry them to England, or, at all adventures; dismiss them from the ship, as there was now nothing left for them to take charge of. Captain Wallis was obliged to refuse their request, however reasonable, and informed them, that as they had taken charge of stores, they must wait for orders from England. To this they answered, that they had not received a single order since they were left in the road of Batavia: that they had ten years pay due, and would rather go home sweepers, than remain in their present wretched situation. That they were never permitted to sleep on shore, and when sick, no person had the humanity to visit them: that the Malays frequently robbed them, and that they expected destruction at the hands of those people, as they had burnt the Siam Prize not long before the arrival of the Dolphin. They entreated the Captain to make their case known in England, which he readily promised to do.

On the 5th the Captain went on shore, to buy such stores as he thought necessary to carry the ship home with safety. He visited the different store-houses and arsenals; but the demands of the Dutch were so exorbitant, that he determined to make shift with such materials as he had, rather than be imposed on by people who wished to take every advantage of his necessity. Accordingly, he sailed on the 8th of December, without losing a single man, and having only two on the sick list.

On the 11th the crew began to be afflicted with colds and fluxes; and the following night they saw the Coast of Java, on which was placed an amazing number of lights, intended, as they imagined, to entice the fish near the beach.--They anchored off Princes Island on the 14th, and began to take in wood and water; at which place they remained till the 20th, during which time they purchased turtle, poultry, and other refreshments.

While they lay here one of the seamen fell from the main-yard into the barge, which was a-longside the ship, and struck down two other men, one of whom was bruised so much that he died in four days; but the other escaped with a broken toe: the man who fell had several bones broken, and was otherwise shockingly bruised. They buried three men here, and many others were seized with fluxes, and putrid fevers; the contagion of which last disorder constantly attacked, in a day or two, those who attended the sick. At this time too the ship made above three feet water in four hours.

They struggled with these accumulated misfortunes till the 10th of January, when the sickness began to abate.--On the 24th they encountered a dreadful storm, which tore the sails to pieces, broke a rudder-chain, and carried several of the booms over-board: yet, during this storm, they observed a number of birds and butterflies.--On the 30th they saw land, and came to an anchor in Table Bay, at the Cape of Good Hope, on the 4th of February.

Captain Wallis having saluted the Governor, and the Commanders of some vessels in the harbour, and they having fired guns of salute in return, he lost no time in procuring fresh meat and vegetables for the use of the crew. The surgeon was sent on shore to hire lodgings for the sick; but as the rate demanded was very high, and as the small-pox (which many of the seamen had not had) raged prodigiously, the Captain obtained the Governor’s permission to erect tents on a plain about two miles from the town.

This being done, the sick were sent on shore; positive orders being given that no liquor should be brought to the tents; that no one should be permitted to go into the town; and that extra provisions should be procured for those who were most reduced by sickness. The Captain was so very ill, that, as long as the ship lay here, he was at a country-house several miles distant.

Every man who was able to do any kind of work, was now employed in the necessary repairs of the ship, which being nearly compleated by the 10th of February, several of the men, who had had the small-pox, were permitted to visit the town; and those who had not had that distemper, were allowed to take daily walks in the country; and as they did not abuse this liberty, it was continued to them as long as the ship remained there.

The necessaries which could not be purchased of the Dutch at Batavia, were bought reasonably at this place; and fresh water was procured by distillation, with a view to convince the commanders of the Indiamen that lay here, how easily wholesome water might be procured at sea. This method of distillation is as follows: 56 gallons of salt water being put into the still at five in the morning, thirty-six gallons of fresh water was obtained by about a quarter after ten; thirteen gallons and a half remaining in the still. This fresh water was procured at the expence of sixty-nine pounds of coals, and nine pounds of wood.

On the 25th all hands were ordered on board, when it was found that every man, except three, was able to do duty. A number of sheep were purchased for sea stores; and the ship sailed on the third of March.

On the 17th they anchored in the bay of St. Helena, and sent persons on shore to get water, and others to gather purslain, of which there is great plenty. The Captain going on shore, was saluted by the guns of the fort; and requested to make that place his residence during his stay on the island: but their water-casks being soon filled, and the wind serving the next day, they then sailed for England.

On the 28th they crossed the equinoctial line, getting once more into north-latitude. On the 24th they saw the Cape of Pico.--On the 11th of May they had sight of the Savage sloop of war, captain Hammond, in chace of a sloop, at which he fired several guns. On this captain Wallis fired, and brought the vessel to, which proved to be laden with brandy, tea, &c. from Roscoe in France; she was of Liverpool, and was commanded by Robert Christian. Captain Wallis detained her, in order to her being sent to England; as she was judged to be a smuggler, pretending to be bound to Bergen, in Norway, tho’ she was sailing to the south-west.

No material incident happened from this time to the end of the voyage, which was happily compleated by the Dolphin coming to an anchor in the Downs on the 20th of May 1768.

CAPTAIN CARTERET’S
VOYAGE
ROUND THE WORLD,
In 1766, 1767, 1768 and 1769.

Mr. Carteret having already circumnavigated the globe with Commodore Byron, was appointed to the command of the Swallow sloop, soon after his return to England; and, on the 22d of August 1766, sailed from Plymouth, in company with his Majesty’s ship the Dolphin, and the Prince Frederick store-ship.

Nothing material happened till the morning of the 9th of September, (when the ship lay in the road of Madeira) at which time nine prime seamen left the vessel privately, and swam on shore naked, having only their money tied in handkerchiefs round their bodies. While Captain Carteret was writing to the Consul to assist him in the recovery of these brave, but imprudent fellows, he received a message, that they had been found naked on the shore. A boat was instantly dispatched to bring them on board, where they cut a most ridiculous figure, and seemed heartily ashamed of what they had done: it appeared, however, that they had ran this risk only to get a skinful of liquor (as they said) knowing they were bound on a long voyage, and it being uncertain who might live or die. Captain Carteret endeared himself very much to the crew by pardoning these men, whose future services amply repaid this well-timed lenity.

It will be needless to recite any particulars which happened till the 11th of April, when the Swallow parted company with the Dolphin and Prince Frederick, as already related in the account of Captain Wallis’s Voyage. At nine o’clock on this day the Swallow had totally lost sight of the Dolphin, which Captain Carteret judged to be then clear of the mouth of the Streights; and as the Swallow was then under land, where she had not the advantage of any considerable breeze, they entertained no hope of seeing their consort during the remainder of the voyage.

At this time all the cloth, linen, cutlery wares and trinkets were on board the Dolphin; a circumstance which aggravated Captain Carteret’s distress, as he had not any thing proper to barter with the Indians; yet he encouraged the crew not to despair; and was happy to find that they were in high spirits for the voyage.

A few hours after the ships parted company, the Swallow encountered a violent storm, during which there was so thick a fog, that they could not see mountainous land which they were within half a mile of. At this time the boat was out in search of an anchoring-place; and when night came on, it was so dark, that they could not see half the length of the ship: they therefore hoisted lights, and fired a gun every half hour; and at length the boat reached the ship in safety. The next morning the boat was again sent in search of a place to anchor in, and in the afternoon, when the Captain despaired of her returning in time, he saw her sounding a bay, and instantly making towards her, came to anchor in safety.

The Captain now retired to rest, but he was disturbed in a few minutes by the shouting of the crew upon the deck, and the noise of those below running to join them. His fears brought him instantly on the deck, where he heard the universal cry of the Dolphin! the Dolphin! but this flattering appearance soon vanished, and proved to be only water forced up, and whirled in the air by a gust of wind from the mountains. Mr. Carteret says, that as the current sets continually into the harbour where they lay, he has no doubt but it has another communication with the sea to the south of Deseada. The borders of the bay abound with muscles and wild geese, and afford plenty of wood and water.

They sailed from this place early in the morning of the 15th of April, and soon afterwards, by the sudden shifting of the wind, they encountered so violent a storm, that they were in danger of sinking; yet they did not dare to take in any sails, for fear of running foul of some rocky islands, which in Narborough’s Voyage are called the Islands of Direction; nor could they go back into the Streight, without the danger of running foul of a lee-shore; yet, notwithstanding their best endeavours, the ship made hastily towards this lee-shore. Thus circumstanced, they were compelled to stave the water-casks on and between the decks, that she might carry better sail; and by this expedient they at length escaped the threatened destruction. They now got into the open sea, after a very providential deliverance, for, had the wind again shifted, the ship must have been unavoidably lost.

They now steered a northward course along the Coast of Chili; but as the water on board was deemed insufficient for the length of the voyage, the Captain proposed touching at the Island of Juan Fernandes, or Masafuero, to take in a proper quantity. On the 18th the wind, which had hitherto been favourable for their sailing northward, and consequently getting into a more temperate climate, suddenly shifted, and continued contrary till the 18th of April, blowing violently all the time, accompanied at intervals with dreadful thunder, lightning, rain and hail.

During this time they saw abundance of sea-birds, among which were two sorts, one like a pigeon, which the seamen called the Cape of Good Hope Hen; and the other Mother Carey’s Chickens; but the true name of these latter is the Peterel.

From the 27th of this month till the 1st of May they had continual storms; and on this day a prodigious sea laid the whole ship under water for some time, while the wind blew a hurricane, and the rain poured down in torrents. The wind now shifted, so that the head of the vessel came right against a mountainous sea, which repeatedly broke over the forecastle as far as the main-mast, so that it was almost a miracle that she was not sunk.

When the weather became something more moderate, they repaired in some degree the damage the ship had sustained during the storm; but they had much bad weather afterwards till the 9th of May, when they were in sight of the Island of Masafuero: and on the 10th they saw Juan Fernandes, and sailed round to Cumberland Bay, on the east-side of it.

The Spaniards having fortified this island (a circumstance till then unknown to Captain Carteret) a number of men were seen on the shore, and two large boats lying on the beach. A house and four pieces of cannon were observed near the sea side, and on the brow of a hill, at a small distance, was a fort with Spanish colours flying on it. Many cattle were seen on the hills, and above 20 houses on different parts of the island. The wind blew so strong out of the bay, that it was impossible to get very near it: they therefore sailed westward, and were followed by one of the Spanish boats; but she soon returned, on observing that the wind kept them out of the harbour. On the eastern side of the west bay they saw a kind of guard-house, with two pieces of cannon, on carriages, near it. They now returned towards Cumberland Bay, when the boat again put after them; but night coming on, they lost sight of her. As Captain Carteret had only English colours on board, he did not hoist any during all this time.

Thus disappointed of the refreshments they so very much wanted, they sailed for Masafuero, where they anchored on the 12th, but were unable to land, as the beach was full of rocks, and the surf ran so violently, that the best swimmers could not get through the breakers: the next morning, however, the boats landed, and filled some water-casks.

On the 15th they anchored on the east-side of the island; but were driven from their moorings, and kept out at sea all night. In the morning the cutter was sent for water, and the ship got near the shore, where she soon received several casks, and sent the cutter back for more. The long-boat was likewise dispatched on this service, as well as to carry provisions to those on shore. In the afternoon the boats being observed running along the shore, the ship followed and took them in, but not without their sustaining so much damage by the violence of the sea, that the carpenters were obliged to work all night in repairing them.

On the 17th the cutter was again sent for water; and, when she returned, the Lieutenant reported, that the violent rains which had fallen in the night, had brought down such a deluge of water, that the people on shore narrowly escaped drowning, after losing several of the casks. Mr. Gower, the Lieutenant, having seen many rivulets of water produced by the rain which had fallen in the night, proposed to go and fill the casks; but he had not been long gone, before the weather began to wear a very threatening appearance, and it thundered and lightned to a degree beyond description. The ship now kept as near the shore as possible, and as it was grown quite dark, they were very apprehensive that the long-boat was lost, but she happily came a-longside just in time to prevent the destruction of her whole crew; for she had scarce been hoisted over the ship’s side a moment, before such a violent squall came on, as must inevitably have sunk her. Mr. Gower reported, that three of the sailors having swam on shore with the casks, just before the storm began, he was under a necessity, however unwilling, of leaving them behind, exposed, naked as they were, to thunder, lightning, rain and hunger.

These men returned to the ship, on the evening of the 19th, and gave an account how they had passed the melancholy interval.--While day-light continued they hoped for an opportunity of regaining the boat; but when the darkness and cold of the night advanced, they began to consider how they should abide the inclemency of the weather; when necessity suggested an expedient that ingenuity might have sought in vain:--they laid, alternately, each between the two other, thus procuring at once the partial comforts of a house and a fire. As soon as the day broke they proceeded by the sea-shore towards the tent: but being repeatedly impeded by high points of land, they swam round them, at such a distance, to avoid the rocks, that they were scarcely in less danger from the sharks: happily, however, they escaped every danger, and were received at the watering-place with a degree of pleasure that does honour to the humanity of their brother tars; part of whose cloths and provisions were instantly appropriated to feed the hungry and clothe the naked. When these men returned on board, they were indulged with a whole night’s rest, and the next morning were perfectly well. The reader will no doubt be pleased to be informed, that these were three of the nine men who swam ashore at Madeira, for a skinful of liquor.

This day such a quantity of fish was taken by the boat, with hooks and lines only, as was equal to the consumption of the whole crew. On the 20th the ship, which had been some time standing off and on near the shore, came again to an anchor, when the long-boat being sent out, procured, in a short time, an ample supply of fish. During the night, and all the following day, they had extreme bad weather; but, as soon as it became moderately calm, three seamen were sent on shore to kill seals, and make oil of their fat, for the use of the lamps.

On the 22d in the morning (after a stormy night) the boats being sent on shore, returned with a number of pintado birds, which were obtained from the inhabitants, who said that, when the wind blew briskly in the night, these birds flew into the fire in amazing numbers; so that they catched several hundreds the preceding night. On the 23d as much water was got off as the weather would permit of, but several casks were lost by the violence of the surf. The weather now grew so bad that the Captain was impatient to sail: he therefore gave orders for all the people on shore to come on board. At this time the ship drove from her moorings, dragging the anchor after her, till she got into deep water. They now lay to under bare poles, waiting for the boats, while the violence of the wind carried the water higher than the mast-head. In the evening the long-boat with ten of the men were taken on board; but there yet remained the cutter, with the Lieutenant and eighteen men. The weather becoming more moderate about midnight, the ship stood in for land, and at ten the next morning was near the shore, but the cutter was not to be seen; about noon however she was discovered close under land, and in three hours time her crew got on board. These people endeavoured to come off in the evening, but had no sooner left the shore than their cutter was almost filled with water, and narrowly escaped sinking: at length she regained the shore, where she remained all night: in the morning it was concluded, that the ship had perished in the storm, and the crew, having taken proper methods to secure the boat, proposed to wait till the summer, when they hoped she might be able to carry them to the Island of Juan Fernandes:--but these thoughts were now lost in the joy of their happy deliverance.

The island of Masafuero is of a triangular form, about 22 miles in circumference, and, at a distance, has the appearance of a single rock; there is good anchorage on many parts of the coast, and the island abounds with goats. Wood and water are plenty, but difficult to be procured, on account of the violence of the surf. Cod, hallibut, coal-fish, and cray-fish are to be catched in great numbers; and seals are so numerous, that Captain Carteret thinks, the killing of thousands could make no apparent difference in their numbers. The mountain cabbage grows on the island, which likewise abounds in birds, among which are hawks of a very large size.

Captain Carteret having left the Island of Masafuero, sailed to the north, with the hope of getting the south-east trade-wind; and, having got more to the north than he first proposed, he looked out for the Islands of St. Ambrose and St. Felix, which he missed through the erroneous printed accounts of their latitudes and longitudes. They likewise searched for the continent, which in the charts is called Davis’s Land; but which Mr. Carteret gives many reasons for supposing has no existence.

This search was continued till the 17th of June, which is the depth of winter, when the weather was dark and cold, with sleet, rain, thunder and lightning. The gloom was so constant, that they had seldom sun-shine enough to make an observation, yet were necessitated to carry all the sail possible, that they might not perish with hunger before the ship should reach some port, where they might procure a supply of necessaries.

On the 2d of July they discovered an island, which was well clothed with trees, and down the side of which ran a stream of fresh water. It appeared to be about five miles in circumference, and was called PITCAIRN’S ISLAND, from the name of a young gentleman who first saw it.

On the 4th the ship admitted a great quantity of water, and was otherwise in a very shattered condition, from the rough seas she had encountered. The crew now likewise began to be much afflicted with the scurvy; though they were, happily, well supplied with water, an abundance of the rain-water being catched by means of an awning lined with painted canvas.

On the 11th Captain Carteret gave the name of the BISHOP OF OSNABURGH’S ISLAND, to a low piece of land discovered this day, which was well cloathed with verdure. On the 12th they saw two other small islands, on one of which the boat’s crew landed, and found birds so tame, as to be taken without the least difficulty. The other island was about 15 miles distance; but neither of them afforded either water or vegetables. They were called the DUKE OF GLOUCESTER’S ISLANDS; and Captain Carteret supposes them to be the same land which was seen by Quiros.

From this period till the 22d of the month they had alternate storms and calms; and on this day judged themselves five thousand four hundred miles from the continent of America; yet in all this run they had seen no signs of a southern continent.

As the scurvy was now daily encreasing among the seamen; and as the weather was bad, and the ship in a crazy condition, the Captain determined to steer such a course as might most probably tend to the preservation of the vessel and the crew. In consequence of this resolution he stood to the northward, in the hope of having the advantage of the trade-wind, and reaching some island, where he might be furnished with the necessary refreshments.

On the 25th they saw great flocks of birds, which induced them to think that they were near land, but they could not discover any. On the 3d of August great numbers of sea-birds were seen; and on this day the current was observed to set strongly to the southward, though it had hitherto ran in a contrary direction; whence the Captain concluded, that the passage between New Zealand and New Holland opened in this latitude, which was ten degrees eighteen minutes south, and the longitude 177 degrees 30 minutes east.

On the 10th of this month the ship sprung a leak, in a part which they could not come at to repair; so that their situation was truly alarming; but two days afterwards they discovered land, which gave fresh spirits to the almost desponding crew. The Captain observed seven islands, and sailed towards two of them, which lay very near together: in the evening they came to an anchor near the largest of them, on which were seen two of the natives, who were negroes, with woolly heads, and wore no kind of clothing.

A boat being sent on shore, an account was brought back that there was fine fresh water opposite where the ship lay, but that it would be difficult to procure it, as the whole country was covered with thick wood quite to the sea shore. This circumstance, added to the danger there might be of the natives attacking them from the woods, determined the Captain to look for a more convenient anchoring-place.--On the day following, therefore, the cutter, with the master and a party of seamen, was sent to the westward, to search for a place to procure wood and water, to seek for refreshments for the sick, and to discover a place where the ship might be repaired. He received orders to be strictly on his guard against any attack from the natives, and took with him a few trinkets that happened to be on board, to procure their good will. The longboat being likewise sent off, she soon returned laden with water: she was dispatched a second time, but the people on board the ship observing some of the natives advancing to the landing-place, a signal was made for her to return.

Soon after this three of the Indians sat down on the shore, looking stedfastly at the ship for several hours. The Lieutenant was now sent towards them; but, when they saw the boat approaching, they moved along the coast, where they were soon met by three others. When they had conferred together, the former went on, while the latter advanced hastily towards the boat. This being observed from the ship, a signal was made for the boat’s crew to act with caution. The Lieutenant now proceeded to the shore, and offered his presents to the Indians, who, regardless of his trinkets, discharged their arrows, and immediately ran off; though the boat’s crew received no injury, they fired at the natives; but these, likewise, escaped unhurt.

In a short time after this the cutter came on board; the Master, who commanded her, having three arrows sticking in his body. The account he gave of his expedition was, in substance, as follows. Being arrived at a place about fifteen miles from the ship, he saw some houses, but only a very few of the natives, and landed with four of the crew well armed: the first fears of the Indians being dispelled, they accepted his presents with pleasure, and, in return, gave him some fish, yams, and cocoa-nuts. He then went to the houses; but soon observing a number of the natives among the trees, and several canoes coming round a point, he hastened towards the boat; but before he could embark, a general attack with bows and arrows was made, as well on those in the boat, as on those on shore. Thus situated, the crew fired repeatedly, killing and wounding many of the Indians: still however the latter continued the fight, some of them running into the water as high as the breast; and when the boat got farther off she was pursued by the canoes, which did not retreat till one of them was sunk, and many of the people in the others were killed.

Some of the crew gave an account of this transaction less favourable to the Master than his own: they said, that the Indians behaved in the most friendly manner, till he exasperated them by cutting down a cocoa-nut tree, after they had strongly intimated their wishes that he would not destroy it. The instant the tree fell they all left the spot but one man, but they were soon observed to assemble in great numbers among the trees; on which a Midshipman entreated the Master to go on board; but he slighted the advice, nor even retired till the attack was commenced. The Master and three of the seamen died of the wounds received from the arrows of the Indians.

The Captain now determined to attempt the reparation of the ship in her present situation; and succeeded so far that the leak was greatly reduced. On the 14th the wind setting full into the bay, the ship was driven near the shore, and many of the Indians were observed in the woods, as if in expectation of her running a-ground.

On the 15th a party was sent on shore to get water, a shot having been previously fired into the woods, to disperse any of the natives that might be lurking in them. The Lieutenant was likewise dispatched in the cutter to keep the coast clear for the waterers, by repeated firings into the woods; yet, in spite of these precautions, a flight of arrows was soon discharged among them, by which one of the seamen was dangerously wounded. The crew now incessantly fired to that part of the wood from whence the arrows came; but the Captain made a signal for the boats to come off; and as soon as he had taken them on board, fired several canon into the woods; on which a great number of the natives left their retreat, and ran away along the shore.

In a short time another large party was observed on a point of the bay, at whom a ball being fired, it fell in the midst of, and dispersed them. The people now took in water with safety; but a constant firing was kept up, both from the ship, and from a party on shore; and it appeared that our countrymen had been dreadfully successful, for repeated groans, as of dying men, were heard from several places in the woods.

As the Master was now dying of the wounds he had received by the arrows; as the Captain and Lieutenant were so ill that their recovery was doubtful; and as there was no chance of procuring proper refreshments at this place, all intentions of pursuing the voyage farther to the southward were laid aside: the Captain, therefore, having named the place EGMONT ISLAND, and the harbour where the ship had lain SWALLOW BAY, sailed from it on the 17th of August 1767.

On the same day an island was discovered, which received the name of PORTLAND’S ISLAND, four miles from which they saw an harbour, which was called BYRON’S HARBOUR. Having sailed three leagues from the harbour, they had sight of the bay where the Indians had attacked the crew of the cutter. This was called BLOODY BAY; on its borders were a number of houses well constructed, and one much longer than the others, which had the appearance of a kind of hall for the transaction of public business. In this place, which was well built, and covered with a kind of thatch, the Master and his party had been received by the natives, before the wanton cutting down of the cocoa-nut tree. A large number of arrows were hung in bundles round the room, the floor and sides of which were covered with matting. In this neighbourhood were many gardens, surrounded by stone walls, and planted with vegetables. Three miles from this village a large town was seen, in the front of which, towards the sea, was an angular kind of fortification, built of stone, and near five feet high.

About three miles from hence they saw a bay, into which a river empties itself, which they called GRANVILLE’S RIVER, and it appeared to be navigable for small vessels far up the country. The point of this bay was called FERRERS’S POINT; and from hence the land forms a large bay, near which is a considerable town, inhabited by an incredible number of people, who, while the ship was sailing by, came out of their houses, holding something like a bundle of grass in their hands, with which they appeared to stroke each other, running in rings, or dancing, all the while.

Sailing onwards a few miles they saw another point, which was called CARTERET POINT, on which was a large canoe, with an awning over it; at a small distance was another town, fortified as that before-mentioned. The inhabitants of this place likewise advanced before their houses, and danced as the others had done. The dance being ended, many of them came off in canoes towards the ship: but having got near enough to have a good view of her, they would advance no farther.

They soon saw another small island, which was named TREVANION’S ISLAND, and the north part of it was called CAPE TREVANION. Both the main land and this island abounded with inhabitants; and a boat being sent to sound the passage, they no sooner observed that she had left the ship, than several canoes advanced to attack her. The Indians having let fly their arrows, the boat’s crew fired, and killed one man, and wounded another. A gun laden with grape shot was at the same time fired from the ship, on which all the canoes pulled hard for the shore, except the one with the wounded man in it, which being taken to the ship, the surgeon was ordered to examine his wounds. One of this poor fellow’s arms was broke, and a shot had gone through his head; and the Surgeon being of opinion that the latter wound was mortal, he was placed in his canoe again, and with one hand rowed towards the shore. His canoe was formed only of the hollow trunk of a tree: he was a young fellow, almost as black as the negroes of Guinea; his features were good, his hair woolly, and he went quite naked.--It may be fairly asked here, if it would not have been an act of humanity to have attempted the cure of this unfortunate youth, if it had been only by a single dressing, before he had been dismissed.

As they sailed along the shore they saw plantains, bananas, and cocoa-nut trees, and observed great numbers of hogs and poultry: but the Captain being yet very ill, and having not officers sufficient to direct the men in the common business of the ship, he had no opportunity of establishing a friendly traffick with the Indians; and was unable to obtain by force those refreshments which the crew became every hour more and more in want of.

Thus situated; unable to proceed farther to the south, and in danger of being too late for the monsoon, he gave immediate orders to proceed northwards, in hope of discovering the country, which Dampier has distinguished by the name of _Nova Britannia_.

To all the islands they had now left, Captain Carteret gave the general name of QUEEN CHARLOTTE’S ISLANDS; and, besides those already mentioned, he saw several, which he named as follows, viz. LORD HOW’S ISLAND; KEPPEL’S ISLAND; LORD EDGCOMBE’S ISLAND; OURRY’S ISLAND; and VOLCANO ISLAND; this last being so denominated from a smoke that issued from its top, which is of an amazing height, and shaped like a sugar loaf.

The canoes of the inhabitants are formed of the trunk of a tree hollowed, are large enough to contain ten or twelve people, and are furnished with out-riggers, but have no sails.

The people of Egmont Island are very expert at swimming and diving; and active and vigorous in a high degree. Their arrows are so sharp, and discharged with such strength, that one of them wounded a man in the thigh, after passing through the wash-board of the boat. The points of these arrows are flint, and no metal was seen among the natives. There are good harbours on the coasts of these islands, which likewise abound in rivers, and have some vallies, but for the most part they are mountainous, and covered with trees.

Captain Carteret sailed on the 18th of August, and holding a west-north-west course, he on the 20th discovered a small island, which was called GOWER’S ISLAND, the people of which did not differ in any thing material from those of the islands he had lately left. Some cocoa-nuts were here procured in exchange for nails; and the inhabitants had intimated, that they would furnish a farther supply the next morning but it was then found, that the current had carried the ship considerably to the south during the night, and brought them within sight of two other islands, one of which was called SIMPSON’S ISLAND, and the other CARTERET’S ISLAND.

As both these islands were to windward of the ship, they sailed again to Gower’s Island, which abounds with fine trees, many of which are the cocoa-nut. A boat being sent on shore, the Indians attempted to seize her; and in return the crew made prize of a canoe, in which was a number of cocoa-nuts. The arms of the natives were spears, bows and arrows.

As a strong current set to the southward, they now steered a north-westerly course, because the bad condition of the ship, and sickness of the crew, would have rendered it impossible for them ever to have got to sea again, if they had been driven into any gulph or deep bay. On the 22d one of the marines fell overboard, and was drowned, notwithstanding every effort was used to save him.

The ship fell in with nine islands in the night of the 24th, which Captain Carteret supposes to be the same that were discovered by Tasman, and are named Ohang Java: eight of these are very small, but the other is more extensive, and they are all inhabited by blacks, whose heads are woolly, like those on the coast of Africa. The next day they had sight of an island covered with verdure, which was called SIR CHARLES HARDY’S ISLAND, and from the number of fires that were seen on it, they supposed it to be inhabited. This day they likewise had sight of a large island, formed of three high hills, which took the name of WINCHELSEA’S ISLAND. On the 26th they saw a large island to the north, which Captain Carteret imagines to have been the island of St. John, that was discovered by Schouten.

This day they were within sight of Nova Britannia, and the next morning the current drove the ship into a deep bay, which, in Dampier’s Voyages, is called St. George’s Bay. On the 28th they gave the name of WALLIS’S ISLAND to a small island in a bay, off which they came to an anchor, and were now 7500 miles due west from the main land of America. The cutter was sent out to catch fish; but not succeeding, she returned with a considerable number of cocoa-nuts.

On the next day, after great fatigue, they weighed the anchor, and sailed to a place which they called ENGLISH COVE, where they immediately began to take in wood and water. They now attempted to catch fish with hooks and lines, but none of them would bite; nor were they much more successful with their nets: turtle likewise were very plentiful, yet they could not take any of them; but at low water they picked up some large cockles and rock oysters. From the shore they procured cocoa-nuts, and the cabbage of the cocoa-tree, which is crisp and juicy; this, when eaten raw, tastes like a chestnut; but, when boiled, has a more agreeable flavour than the parsnip. It was found to be excellent when boiled with portable soup and oatmeal. They likewise gathered some plumbs, which tasted like those of the West Indies, which are called Jamaica plumbs; and by this supply of vegetables, they had soon reason to rejoice in the blessing of returning health.

This island seemed to have been lately inhabited, as several wretched huts were seen, in which were the remains of fires, and the shells of fish, which did not appear to have been long catched: they had likewise a sight of two animals, which were supposed to be dogs. This place produces palm-trees of various kinds; aloes, canes, bamboos, rattans, beetle-nut, and the nutmeg-tree; with a variety of other trees, and many shrubs and plants of which the names were not known. In the woods was a large black-bird, whose note was not unlike the barking of a dog: there were likewise parrots, rooks, pigeons and doves: they also saw centipieds, serpents and scorpions.

Having taken in wood and water, and repaired the ship in the best manner they were able, the Captain took possession of the country, with all the neighbouring islands, for the King of Great Britain. This was done by nailing on a lofty tree a piece of board faced with lead, on which was engraved the name of the vessel, and of the Captain, the time of entering and leaving the harbour, and a representation of the union flag of England.

They left this cove on the 7th of September, and anchored on the same day almost close to a grove of cocoa-nut trees, where they supplied themselves with the fruit and the cabbage in very great abundance; and called the place CARTERET’S HARBOUR, which being formed by the main and two islands, one of them was named LEIGH’S ISLAND, and the other COCOA-NUT ISLAND.

Nothing now remained but to attempt the reaching Batavia while the monsoon continued favourable: on the 9th of September, therefore, the anchor was weighed, and when they were about four leagues from land, the wind and current being both against them, they steered round the coast into a channel between two islands, which channel was divided by another island, to which Captain Carteret gave the name of the DUKE OF YORK’S ISLAND, and near which are several smaller islands. To the south of the largest island are three hills of singular form, which were called the MOTHER AND DAUGHTERS, one of which was supposed to be a volcano, from the large clouds of smoke that were seen issuing from it. A point they called CAPE PALLISER, lies to the east of these hills, and CAPE STEPHENS to the west; north of which last lies an island, which took the name of the ISLE OF MAN. The country in general is mountainous and woody, and was supposed to be inhabited, from the number of fires seen on it in the night. On the Duke of York’s Island the houses are situated among groves of the cocoa-nut tree, and form the most enchanting prospect.

Having brought to for the night, they sailed again in the morning, when some of the Indians put off in canoes towards the ship; but the wind being fair and blowing fresh, it was not thought prudent to wait for them. Steering north-west by west, they lost sight of New Britain on the 11th, and it being now found, that what had been taken for a bay was a streight, it was called ST. GEORGE’S CHANNEL, and the island on the north of it received the name of NEW IRELAND. In the evening they discovered a large island, well clothed with verdure, which was denominated SANDWICH ISLAND, off this island the ship lay great part of the night, during which time a perpetual noise was heard, resembling the sound of a drum. When they had almost cleared the Streight, the weather falling calm, a number of canoes approached the ship, and, though they could not be prevailed on to go on board, they exchanged some little matters with the crew, receiving nails and bits of iron, which they preferred to every thing else that was offered them. Though the canoes of these people were formed out of single trees, they were between 80 and 100 feet in length. The natives are negroes, and their hair is of the woolly kind, but they have neither thick lips nor flat noses. They wore shell-work on their legs and arms, but were otherwise naked, except that their hair and beards were powdered with white powder, and a feather was stuck into the head above the ear. Their arms consisted of a long stick and a spear; and it was observed, that they had fishing-nets and cordage.

They now sailed west, and coming in sight of the south-west point of the island, it was called CAPE BYRON; near which is an island of considerable extent, which received the name of NEW HANOVER. The Streight they had now passed was called BYRON’S STREIGHT, one of the largest islands they had seen, BYRON’S ISLAND; and the south west point of New Hanover, QUEEN CHARLOTTE’S FORELAND. On the following day they saw several small islands, which received the name of the DUKE OF PORTLAND’S ISLANDS.

When they had compleatly navigated St. George’s Channel, the whole length of which is about one hundred leagues; they sailed a westward course, and on the 14th of September discovered several islands. The next morning some hundreds of the natives came off in canoes towards the ship, and were invited on board by every token of friendship and good will; notwithstanding which, when they came within reach, they threw several lances at the seamen on the deck. A great gun and several muskets were now fired at them, by which some were killed or wounded; on which they rowed towards the shore; and after they had got to a distance, a shot was fired so as to fall beyond them, to convince them that they were not out of the reach of the guns.

In a short time other canoes advanced hastily from a distant part of the island; and one of them coming nearer than the rest, the people in it were invited on board the ship; but instead of complying with the invitation, they threw in a number of darts and lances. This assault was returned by the firing of several muskets, whereby one of the Indians was killed; on which his companions jumped overboard, and swam to the other canoes, all of which rowed to the shore. This canoe being taken on board, was found to contain a turtle, some other fish, and a fruit between the apple and plumb, of a species hitherto unknown to Europeans. These people were almost negroes, with woolly hair, which they powdered; and they went naked, except the ornaments of shells round their arms and legs.

Captain Carteret now coasted along the islands, to which he gave the general name of the ADMIRALTY ISLANDS. He describes them as having a most enchanting appearance, being covered with woods, groves of cocoa-nut trees, and the houses of the natives. The largest of these islands is computed to be above 50 miles in length; and he supposes that they produce many valuable articles, particularly spices.

They discovered two small verdant islands on the 19th, which were called DUROUR’S ISLAND, and MATTY’S ISLAND, the inhabitants of which last ran along the coast with lights during the night. They had sight of two other small islands on the 24th, which were called STEPHENS’S ISLANDS, and which abounded with beautiful trees.