Chapter XII: Part 12

The Captain gave the name of CAPE GEORGE to a point of land which he discovered on St. George’s day: about two leagues to the north of which the sea formed a bay, which, from its shape, was called LONG NOSE; eight leagues from which lies RED-POINT, so called from the colour of the soil in its neighbourhood. On the 27th they saw several of the inhabitants walking along the shore, four of them carrying a canoe on their shoulders: but as they did not attempt coming off to the ship, the Captain took Messrs. Banks and Solander and Tupia in the yawl, and employed four men to row them to that part of the shore where the natives appeared; near which four small canoes laid close in land. The Indians sat on the rocks till the yawl was within a quarter of a mile of the shore, and then ran away into the woods. The surf beating violently on the beach, prevented the boat from landing; the gentlemen were therefore obliged to make what observations they could at a distance. The canoes resembled the smaller sort of those of New Zealand. They saw, with longing eyes, a great number of cabbage-trees on shore: the other trees were of the palm-kind, and there was no underwood among them.

At five in the evening they returned to the ship, and a light breeze springing up, they sailed to the northward, where they discovered several people on shore round a fire, who, on their approach, retired to an eminence; soon after which two canoes arrived on the shore, and four men, who came in them, joined the others. The pinnace having been sent a-head to sound, arrived near the spot where the Indians had stationed themselves, on which one of them hid himself among the rocks near the landing place, and the others retreated farther up the hill. The pinnace keeping along shore, the Indians walked nearly in a line with her. They were armed with long pikes, and a weapon resembling a cymeter, and, by various signs and words, invited the boat’s crew to land. Those who did not follow the boat, having observed the approach of the ship, brandished their weapons, and threw themselves into threatening attitudes. The bodies, thighs and legs of two of these, were painted with white streaks, and their faces were almost covered with a white powder. They talked to each other with great emotion, and each of them held a kind of cymeter in his hand.

The ship having come to an anchor, they observed a few huts, in which were some of the natives; and saw some canoes, in each of which was a man busily employed in striking fish with a kind of spear. They had anchored opposite a village of about eight houses, and observed an old woman and three children come out of a wood, laden with fuel for a fire: they were met by three smaller children, all of whom, as well as the woman, were quite naked. The old woman frequently looked at the ship with the utmost indifference, and, as soon as she had made a fire, the fishermen brought their canoes on shore, and they set about dressing their dinner with as much composure, as if a ship had been no extraordinary sight.

Having formed a design of landing, they manned the boats, and took Tupia with them; and they had no sooner come near the shore, than two men advanced, as if to dispute their setting foot on land. They were each of them armed with different weapons. They called out aloud in a harsh tone, _warra warra wai_, the meaning of which Tupia did not understand. The Captain threw them beads, nails and other trifles, which they took up, and seemed to be delighted with. He then made signs that he wanted water, and used every possible means to convince them that no injury was intended. They now made signs to the boat’s crew to land, on which they put the boat in; but they had no sooner done so, than the two Indians came again to oppose them. A musquet was now fired between them, on the report of which one of them dropped a bundle of lances, which he instantly snatched up again in great haste. One of them then threw a stone at the boat, on which the Captain ordered a musket loaded with small shot to be fired, which wounding the eldest of them on the legs, he retired hastily to one of their houses, which stood at some little distance. The people in the boats now landed, imagining that the wound which this man had received would put an end to the contest; in this, however, they were mistaken, for he immediately returned with a kind of shield, of an oval figure, painted white in the middle, with two holes in it to see through. They now advanced with great intrepidity, and both discharged their lances at the boat’s crew, but did not wound any of them. Another musket was now fired at them, on which they threw another lance, and then took to their heels. The crew now went up to the huts, in one of which they found the children, who had secreted themselves behind some bark. They looked at them, but left them without their knowing they had been seen; and having thrown some pieces of cloth, ribbons, beads, and other things into the hut, they took several of their lances, and reimbarked in the boat. The canoes on this coast were about thirteen feet in length, each made of the bark of a single tree, tied up at the ends, and kept open in the middle by means of sticks placed across them; their paddles are very small, and they use two at a time.

They now sailed to the north point of the bay, where they found a plenty of fresh water. On taking a view of the hut where they had seen the children, they had the mortification to find that every Indian was fled, and that they had left all the presents behind them. The Captain now went in the pinnace to inspect the bay, and saw several of the natives, who all fled as he approached them. Some men having been sent to get wood and water, they no sooner, came on board to dinner, than the natives came down to the place, and examined the casks with great attention, but did not offer to remove them. When the people were on shore in the afternoon, about twenty of the natives, all armed, advanced within a trifling distance of them, and then stopped, while two of their number approached still nearer. Mr. Hicks, the commanding officer, on shore, went towards them, with presents in his hands, and endeavoured, by every possible means, to assure them of his friendly intentions, but to no purpose, for they retired before he came up to them. In the evening Messrs. Banks and Solander went with the Captain to a cove north of the bay, where they catched between three and four hundred weight of fish, in four hauls.

On Monday the 30th the natives came down to the huts before it was light, and were repeatedly heard to shout very loud; and soon after day-break they were seen on the beach; but quickly retired about a mile, and kindled several fires in the woods. This day some of the ship’s crew being employed in cutting grass, at a distance from the main body of those on shore, a party of Indians made towards them; on which the grass-cutters retreated to the main body, while the natives pursued them; but stopping within fifty or sixty yards of them, they shouted several times, and retired to the woods. In the evening they behaved exactly in the same manner, when the Captain followed them alone and unarmed for some time, but they still retired as he approached.

On Tuesday May the first, the south point of the bay was named _Sutherland Point_, one of the seamen, of the name of Sutherland, having died that day, and been buried on shore. This day Messrs. Banks, Solander, the Captain and a few other gentlemen, went on shore, and left more presents in the huts, such as looking-glasses, combs, &c. but the former ones had not been taken away.--Making an excursion about the country, they found it agreeably variegated with wood and lawn. The trees being strait and tall, and without underwood, the country might be cultivated without cutting down one of them. The grass grows in large tufts, almost close to each other, and there is a great plenty of it. In this excursion they met with many places where the inhabitants had slept without shelter; but they saw only one man, who ran away the moment he beheld them. They left more presents, in their huts, and at their sleeping-places, in hopes of producing a friendly intercourse. They saw the dung of an animal which fed on grass, and traced the foot-steps of another, which had claws like a dog, and was probably about the size of a wolf: they discovered the track of a small animal, whose foot was like that of a pole-cat; and saw one animal alive, about the size of a rabbit. They found some wood which had been felled, and the bark stripped off by the natives; and saw several growing trees, in which steps had been cut, for the convenience of ascending them. The trees abounded with a vast variety of beautiful birds, among which were cockatoos, parroquets and loriquets, which flew in large flocks.

The second Lieutenant, Mr. Gore, having been with a boat to dredge for oysters, saw some Indians, who made signs for him to come on shore, which he declined. Having finished his business, he sent the boat away, and went by land with a Midshipman, to join the party that was getting water. In their way they met with more than twenty of the natives, who followed them so close, as to come within a few yards of them. Mr. Gore stopped and faced them; on which the Indians stopped also, and when he proceeded again they followed him; but they did not attack him, though they had each man his lance. The Indians coming in sight of the Waterers, stood still at the distance of a quarter of a mile, while Mr. Gore and his companion reached their shipmates in safety. Two or three of the Waterers now advanced towards the Indians; but observing they did not retire, they very imprudently turned about, and retreated hastily; this apparent cowardice inspirited the savages, who discharged four lances at the fugitives, which flying beyond them, they escaped unhurt. They now stopped to pick up the lances, on which the Indians retired in their turn. At this instant the Captain came up, with Messrs. Banks, Solander, and Tupia; and advancing, made signs of friendship; but the poor natives would not wait their coming up to them.

On the following day they again went on shore, where many plants were collected by Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks. They saw several parties of the Indians, who all ran away on their approach. Tupia having learnt to shoot, frequently strayed alone to shoot parrots; and the Indians constantly fled from him with as much precipitation as from the English. On the 3d of May, fourteen or fifteen Indians, in the same number of canoes, were engaged in striking fish within half a mile of the watering-place. At this time a party of the ship’s crew were shooting near the fishermen, one of whom Mr. Banks observed to haul up his canoe on the beach, and approach the people who were shooting. He watched their motions, unobserved by them, for more than a quarter of an hour, then put off his boat, and returned to his fishing.

At this time the Captain, with Dr. Solander and another gentleman, went to the head of the bay to try to form some connexion with the Indians. On their first landing they found several Indians on shore, who immediately retreated to their canoes, and rowed off. They went up the country, where they found the soil to be a deep black mould, which appeared to be calculated for the production of any kind of grain. They saw some of the finest meadows that were ever beheld, and met with a few rocky places, the stone of which is sandy, and seemed to be admirably adapted for building. In the woods they found a tree bearing cherries, if shape and colour may entitle them to that name, the juice of which was agreeably tart. They now returned to their boat, and seeing a fire at a distance, rowed towards it, but the Indians fled on their approach. Near the beach they found seven canoes, and as many fires, from whence they judged that each fisherman had dressed his own dinner. There were oysters lying on the spot, and some muscles roasting on the fire. They ate of these fish, and left them some beads and other trifles in return. They now returned to the ship; and in the evening Mr. Banks went out with his gun, and saw a great number of quails, some of which he shot, and they proved to be the same kind as those of England.

On the following day a Midshipman having strayed from his companions, came suddenly on an old man and woman, and some children, who were sitting naked under a tree together. They seemed afraid of him, but did not run away. The man wore a long beard, and both him and the woman were grey-headed; but the woman’s hair was cut short. This day, likewise, two of another party met with six Indians on the border of a wood, one of whom calling out very loud, a lance was thrown from the wood, which narrowly missed them. The Indians now ran off; and, on looking round, they saw a youth descend from a tree, who had doubtless been placed there for the purpose of throwing the lance at them. This day the Captain went up the country on the north-side of the bay, which he found to resemble the moory grounds of England; but the land was thinly covered with plants about sixteen inches high. The hills rise gradually behind each other to a great distance, and between them is marshy ground. Those who had been sent out to fish this day met with great success; and the second Lieutenant struck a fish called the sting-ray, which weighed near two hundred and fifty pounds. The next morning a fish of the same kind was catched, which weighed three hundred and fifty pounds.

The name of BOTANY BAY was given to this place, from the large number of plants collected by Messrs. Banks and Solander. This country produces two kinds of wood which may be deemed timber; one of which is tall and strait, like the pine, and the other is hard, heavy, and dark-coloured, like _lignum vitæ_; it yields a red gum, like _sanguis draconis_, and bears some resemblance to an English oak. There are mangroves in abundance, several kinds of palm, and a few shrubs. Among other kinds of birds, crows were found here, exactly like those of England. There is great plenty of water-fowl among the flats of sand and mud; one of which is shaped like a pelican, is larger than a swan, and has black and white feathers. These banks of mud abound with cockles, muscles, oysters, and other shell-fish, which greatly contribute towards the support of the natives, who sometimes dress them on shore, and at other times in their canoes. They likewise catch many other sorts of fish with hook and line.

While captain Cook remained in the harbour, the English colours were displayed on shore, daily, and the name of the ship, with the date of the year, was carved on a tree near the place where they took in their water.

They sailed from BOTANY BAY on the 6th of May, 1770; at noon were off a harbour which they called PORT JACKSON, and in the evening, near a bay, to which they gave the name of BROKEN BAY. The next day, at noon, the northermost land in sight projected so as to justify the calling it CAPE THREE POINTS. On Wednesday the 9th, they saw two exceeding beautiful rainbows, the colours of which were strong and lively; and those of the inner one so bright, as to reflect its shadow on the water. They made a complete semicircle, and the space between them was much darker than the rest of the sky. On Thursday they passed a low rocky point, which was named POINT STEPHENS, near which was an inlet, denominated PORT STEPHENS. Next day they saw smoke in several places on the shore; and in the evening discovered three remarkably high hills, near each other, which the Captain named the THREE BROTHERS.

On Sunday the 13th they saw the smoke of many fires on a point of land, which was therefore called SMOKEY CAPE. As they proceeded northward from BOTANY BAY, the land appeared high and well covered with wood. On Tuesday morning, by the assistance of their glasses, they discovered about a score of the Indians, each loaded with a bundle, which they imagined to be palm-leaves, to thatch their houses. They traced them for more than an hour, during which time they took not the least notice of the ship; at length they left the beach, and were lost behind a hill, which they gained by a gentle ascent.--At noon the Captain discovered a high point of land, which he called CAPE BYRON. In the evening they discovered breakers at a considerable distance from the shore; so that they were obliged to tack, and get into deeper water; which having done, they lay with the head of the vessel to the land till the next morning, when they were astonished to find themselves farther to the southward than they had been the preceding evening, notwithstanding they had a southerly wind all night. In the morning they passed the breakers, near a peaked mountain, which was named MOUNT WARNING; and the point off which they lay was called POINT DANGER. The next day they saw more breakers, near a point which was distinguished by the name of POINT LOOK-OUT, to the north of which lies a bay, which Captain Cook called MORETON’S BAY; and the north point of which he named CAPE MORETON. Near this place are three hills, which were called the GLASS HOUSES, from the very strong resemblance they bore to such buildings.

On the 18th they descried a point so unequal, that it looks like two small islands lying under the land; and it was therefore called DOUBLE ISLAND POINT. At noon, by the help of glasses, they discovered some sands, which lay in spots of several acres, which they observed were moveable, and that some of them had not been long in their present situation, as they saw trees half buried, and the tops of others still green; likewise the naked trunks of some that had been destroyed by the sand. At this time two beautiful water-snakes swam by the ship, which seemed to be distinguished from land-snakes, only by their broad and flat tails, which it was thought were useful to them in swimming. On the 19th they sailed by a point of land, on which a large number of the Indians were assembled, from whence it was called INDIAN HEAD. They soon afterwards saw many more of the natives, and observed smoke in the day-time, and fires by night. The next day they saw a point, which was named SANDY CAPE, from two large tracts of white sand that were on it. They next passed a shoal which was called BREAK SEA SPIT, because they had now smooth water, after having long encountered a high sea. They had, for some days past, seen the sea-birds, called boobies, none of which they had met with before; and which, from half an hour before sun-rising, to half an hour after, were continually passing the ship in large flights: from which it was conjectured, that there was a river or inlet of shallow water to the southward, where they went to feed in the day, returning in the evening to some islands to the northward. In honour of Captain Hervey, this bay was called HERVEY’S BAY.

On the 22d, by the help of their glasses, they discovered that the land was covered with palm-nut trees, none of which they had seen since they quitted the islands within the tropic. The next morning early the Captain took a party of men, and being attended by Tupia, and the several gentlemen on board, went on shore to examine the country. They landed a little within the point of a bay, which led into a large lagoon, by the sides of which grows the true mangrove, as it also does on some bogs, and swamps of salt-water which they discovered. There were many nests of a singular kind of ant, as green as grass, in the branches of these mangroves. When the branches were disturbed they came forth in great numbers, and bit the disturber most severely. These trees likewise afforded shelter for immense numbers of green caterpillars, their bodies were covered with hairs, which, on the touch, gave a pain similar to the sting of a nettle, but much more acute. These insects ranged themselves side by side on the leaves, thirty or forty together, in a very regular manner. They saw, among the sand banks, many birds larger than swans, which they imagined were pelicans; and they shot a kind of bustard, which weighed seventeen pounds. This bird proved very delicate food, and gave name to the place, which was called BUSTARD-BAY. They likewise shot a duck of a most beautiful plumage, with a white beak. They found vast numbers of oysters of various sorts, and, among the rest, some hammer oysters of a curious kind. While the gentlemen were in the woods, several of the natives came down and took a survey of the ship, and then departed. The gentlemen on shore saw fires in many places, and repairing to one of them, they found about a dozen small fires burning near each other; but the people were gone, and had left some shells and bones of fish they had just eaten. They likewise saw several pieces of soft bark, about the length and breadth of a man, which they judged had been used as beds. This kind of encampment was in a thicket well defended from the wind; and as the place was much trodden, and there was no appearance of a house, it was imagined that they spent their nights, as well as days, in the open air: even Tupia shook his head, and exclaimed, _Taata Enos!_ “Poor wretches!” They sailed the next morning, and on the day following were a-breast of a point, which lying immediately under the tropic, the Captain called CAPE CAPRICORN, on the west side of which they saw an amazing number of large birds resembling the pelican, some of which were near five feet high.

On the 26th they stood between a range of almost barren islands, and the main land, which is mountainous. They had here very shallow water, and anchored in sixteen feet, which was not two feet more than the ship drew. Mr. Banks tried to fish from the cabin windows, but the water was too shallow. The ground indeed was covered with crabs, which greedily seized the bait, and held it till they were above water. These crabs were of two kinds, one of a very fine blue, with a white belly, and the other marked with blue on the joints, and having three remarkable brown spots on the back. The Captain having sent some men in a boat a-head to sound, they returned with an account, that there was not water enough for the ship to pass through, upon which they tacked about and stood back again. In the morning they sailed to the northward, and to the northermost point of land the Captain gave the name of CAPE MANIFOLD, from the number of high hills appearing above it. Between this cape and the shore is a bay called KEPPEL’S BAY, and some islands bearing the name of the same gentleman. On the 28th, being determined to keep the main land close aboard, which continued to tend away to the west, they got among another cluster of islands; they were here again greatly alarmed, having on a sudden but three fathom water, in a ripling tide; they immediately put the ship about, and hoisted out the boats in search of deeper water; after which they stood to the west with an easy sail, and in the evening, came to the entrance of a bay. On the 29th, in the morning, the master was sent with two boats to sound the bay; and the ship was no sooner under sail, than the boats made the signal, and the ship accordingly came to an anchor. As they observed the tide to flow and ebb considerably, they imagined this bay to be the entrance of a river which ran up the country: in this place therefore the Captain intended to lay the ship a-shore and clean her bottom; and accordingly landed, in search of a proper place for the purpose.

In this excursion Messrs. Banks and Solander attended Captain Cook. They found walking extremely incommodious, the ground being covered with grass, the seeds of which were sharp, and bearded, so that they were continually sticking in their cloaths, whence they worked forwards to the flesh, by means of the beard. They were likewise tormented with the perpetual stinging of musquetos. Several places were found convenient, to lay the ship a-shore; but they could meet with no fresh water. In the interior parts of the country they found gum-trees, on the branches of which were white ants nests formed of clay, as big as a bushel. On another tree they found black ants, which formed their lodging in the body of it, after they had eaten away the pith; yet the trees were in a flourishing condition. They found butterflies in such incredible numbers, that whatever way they looked, many thousands were to be seen in the air; while every bough and twig was covered with multitudes. They likewise discovered on dry ground, where it was supposed to have been left by the tide, a fish about the size of a minnow, having two strong breast fins, with which it leaped away as nimbly as a frog: it did not appear to be weakened by being out of water, nor even to prefer that element to the land; for when seen in the water it leaped on shore, and pursued its way. It was likewise remarked, that where there were small stones projecting above the water, it chose rather to leap from one stone to another, than to swim through the water.

On the 30th the Captain went ashore very early, and having gained the summit of a hill, took a survey of the coast, and adjacent islands; which being done, he accompanied Dr. Solander up an inlet, which had been discovered the preceding day; but the weather proving unfavourable, they returned early to the ship, having seen only two Indians, who followed the boat a considerable way along the shore; but the tide running strong, they did not think it prudent to wait for them. This day Mr. Banks went with a party on shore, and having met with a piece of swampy ground, covered with mangroves, they resolved to pass it, which they did, up to the knees in mud, and sometimes crawling on their hands, when they had slipt between the branches of trees, which were interwoven on the surface of the swamp. Having performed this disagreeable task, they arrived at a spot where the natives appeared to have slept on the grass, and where there were the remains of a fish supper, which had been roasted by four small fires. The second Lieutenant, at another place, saw the track of a large animal, near a gully of water: he likewise heard the voices of the Indians, but did not see any. Two turtles were seen at this place, some waterfowl, and a few small land-birds.

As no water was to be found, the Captain called the inlet THIRSTY SOUND, which they left on the 31st of May, and having sailed round three small islands, anchored in fifteen fathom water. On the 1st of June they got under sail, having a number of islands in sight, as far as the eye could reach. On the second at noon they saw a high promontory, which was called CAPE HILLSBOROUGH, and seemed to abound in wood and herbage, distributed on hills, plains, and in vallies. There are a number of small islands in this neighbourhood, on some of which they saw smoke arising in different places. On Sunday the 3d they discovered a point, which was named CAPE CONWAY, and between that and Cape Hillsborough a bay, which took the name of REPULSE BAY. The land about CAPE CONWAY is diversified by hills and dales, lawns and woods, and forms a delightfully verdant appearance. By the help of their glasses they discovered three people, on one of the islands, and a canoe, with an outrigger, like those of Otaheite. They this day named the islands, CUMBERLAND ISLANDS, in honour of the Duke; and a passage which they discovered was called WITSUNDAY’S PASSAGE, from the day on which it was seen. At day-break, on Monday, they were a-breast of a point, which took the name of CAPE GLOUCESTER. Names were likewise this day given to three other places, viz. HOLBORNE ISLE, EDGCUMBE BAY, and CAPE UPSTART, which latter was so called, because it rises abruptly from the low lands that surround it.

On Tuesday, when near the shore, they saw very large columns of smoke rising from the low-lands. This day they gave name to CLEAVELAND BAY, the east point of which was called CAPE CLEAVELAND, and the west MAGNETICAL ISLE, because the compass did not traverse well when they were near it. The points, as well as the main land within them, lay high, and form a barren, rugged and rocky coast. On the afternoon of Thursday they saw several large columns of smoke, likewise some canoes, and several natives, with some trees, that they thought were those of cocoa-nut; in search of which fruit Messrs. Banks and Solander went ashore with Lieutenant Hicks; but they returned in the evening with a few plants, which they had gathered from the cabbage palm, and which had been mistaken for the cocoa-tree. On Friday they gave the name of POINT HILLOCK to a point of land; between which and Magnetical Isle the shore forms HALIFAX BAY, which affords shelter from all winds. At six this evening they were a-breast of a point of land, which was named Cape Sandwich, near which lies ROCKINGHAM BAY. Hence they ranged northward along the shore, towards a cluster of islands, on one of which about forty men, women and children were standing together, and looking at the ship with a curiosity never observed among these people before. The north point of Rockingham bay was called DUNK ISLE, which is scarcely to be distinguished from the shore, it lies so very near it. On Saturday morning they were a-breast of some small islands, which were named FRANKLAND’S ISLES; near which lie two places, which were called CAPE GRAFTON and GREEN ISLAND. Here Messrs. Banks and Solander went ashore with the Captain, whose chief view were to procure water, which not being easily to be got, they soon returned on board, and the next day arrived near TRINITY BAY, which was so called, because it was discovered on Trinity Sunday.

As no accident remarkably unfortunate had befallen our adventurers, during a navigation of more than thirteen hundred miles, upon a coast every where abounding with the most dangerous rocks and shoals; no name expressive of distress had hitherto been given to any cape or point of land which they had seen. But they now gave the name of CAPE TRIBULATION to a point which they had just discovered, as they here became acquainted with misfortune.

This cape is in sixteen degrees six minutes south latitude, and 214 degrees 39 minutes west longitude.

At six in the evening they shortened sail, to avoid the danger of some rocks, which were seen a-head, and to observe whether any islands lay in the offing, as they were now near the latitude of those islands said to have been discovered by Quiros. They kept standing off from six o’clock till near nine, with a fine breeze and bright moon. They had got from fourteen into twenty-one fathom water; when suddenly they fell into twelve, ten, and eight fathom, in a few minutes. Every man was instantly ordered to his station, and they were on the point of anchoring, when, on a sudden, they had again deep water, so that they thought all danger was at an end, concluding they had sailed over the tail of some shoals which they had seen in the evening. They had twenty fathom and upwards before ten o’clock, and this depth continuing some time, the gentlemen, who had hitherto been upon deck, retired to rest; but in less than an hour the water shallowed at once from twenty to seventeen fathom, and, before soundings could be again taken, the ship struck against a rock, and remained fixed, but from the motion given her by the beating of the surge. Every one was instantly on deck, with countenances fully expressive of the agitation of their minds. As they knew they were not near the shore, they concluded they had struck against a rock of coral, the points of which being sharp, and the surface so rough, as to grind away whatever is rubbed against it, tho’ with a gentle motion; they had reason to dread the horror of their situation!

The sails being taken in, and boats hoisted out to examine the depth of water, they found that the ship had been carried over a ledge of the rock, and lay in a hollow within it. Finding that the water was deepest eastern, they carried out the anchor from the starboard quarter, and applied their whole force to the capstern, in hopes to get the vessel off, but in vain. She now beat so violently against the rock, that the crew could scarcely keep on their legs. The moon now shone bright, by the light of which they could see the sheathing boards float from the bottom of the vessel; till at length the false keel followed, so that they expected instant destruction. Their best chance of escaping seemed now to be by lightening her; but as they had struck at high water, they would have been but in their present situation, after the vessel should draw as much less water as the water had sunk: but their anxiety abated a little, on finding that the ship settled to the rocks as the tide ebbed. They, however, flattered themselves, that if the ship should keep together till next tide, they might have some chance of floating her. They therefore instantly started the water in the hold, and pumped it up. The decayed stores, oil jars, casks, ballast, six of their guns, and other things, were thrown overboard, in order to get at the heavier articles; and in this business they were employed till daybreak, during all which time it was observed, that not an oath was sworn; so much were the minds of the sailors impressed with a sense of their danger.

At day-light they saw land at eight leagues distance; but not a single island between them and the main, on which part of the crew might have been landed, while the boat went on shore with the rest; so that the destruction of the greater part of them would have been inevitable, had the ship gone to pieces. It happened, however, that the wind died away to a dead calm before noon. As they expected high water at eleven o’clock, every thing was prepared to make another effort to free the ship; but the tide fell so much short of that in the night, that she did not float by eighteen inches, though they had thrown over-board near fifty tons weight: they now, therefore, renewed their toil, and threw over-board every thing that could be possibly spared. As the tide fell, the water poured in so rapidly, that they could scarcely keep her free by the constant working of two pumps. Their only hope now depended on the midnight tide, and preparations were accordingly made for another effort to get the ship off. The tide began to rise at five o’clock, when the leak likewise encreased to such a degree, that two more pumps were manned; but only one of them would work: three, therefore, were kept going till nine o’clock, at which time the ship righted; but so much water had been admitted by the leak, that they expected she would sink as soon as the water should bear her off the rock. Their situation was now deplorable beyond description; and the imagination must paint what would baffle the powers of language to describe. They knew that when the fatal moment should arrive, all authority would be at an end. The boats were incapable of conveying them all on shore; and they dreaded a contest for the preference, as more shocking than the shipwreck itself: yet it was considered, that those who might be left on board, would eventually meet with a milder fate than those who, by gaining the shore, would have no chance but to linger the remains of life among the rudest savages in the universe, and in a country, where fire-arms would barely enable them to support a wretched existence.

At twenty minutes after ten the ship floated, and was heaved into deep water; when they were happy to find that she did not admit more water than she had done before; yet as the leak had for a considerable time gained on the pumps, there was now three feet nine inches water in the hold. By this time the men were so worn by fatigue of mind and body, that none of them could pump more than five or six minutes at a time, and then threw themselves, quite spent, on the deck, amidst a stream of water which came from the pumps. The succeeding man being fatigued in his turn, threw himself down in the same manner, while the former jumped up and renewed his labour; thus mutually struggling for life, till the following accident had like to have given them up a prey to absolute despair.

Between the inside lining of the ship’s bottom, which is called the ceiling, and the outside planking, there is a space of about seventeen or eighteen inches. The man who had hitherto taken the depth of water at the well, had taken it no farther than the ceiling; but being now relieved by another person, who took the depth to the outside planking, it appeared by this mistake, that the leak had suddenly gained upon the pumps, the whole difference between the two plankings.--This circumstance deprived them of all hopes, and scarce any one thought it worth while to labour, for the longer preservation of a life which must so soon have a period: but the mistake was soon discovered; and the joy arising from such unexpected good news inspired the men with so much vigour, that before eight o’clock in the morning they had pumped out considerably more water than they had shipped. They now talked confidently of getting the ship into some harbour; and set heartily to work to get in their anchors; one of which, and the cable of another, they lost: but these were now considered as trifles. Having a good breeze from the sea, they got under sail at eleven o’clock, and stood for the land.

As they could not discover the exact situation of the leak, they had no prospect of stopping it within side of the vessel; but the following expedient, which one of the Midshipmen had formerly seen tried with success, was adopted. They took an old studding sail, and having mixed a large quantity of oakham and wool, chopped small, it was stitched down in handfuls on the sail, as lightly as possible; the dung of their sheep and other filth being spread over it. Thus prepared, the sail was hauled under the ship by ropes, which kept it extended till it came under the leak, when the suction carried in the oakham and wool from the surface of the sail. This experiment succeeded so well, that, instead of three pumps, the water was easily kept under with one.

They had hitherto had no further view than to run the ship into an harbour, and build a vessel from her materials, in which they might reach the East Indies; but they now began to think of finding a proper place to repair her damage, and then to pursue their voyage on its original plan. At six in the evening they anchored seven leagues from the shore; and found that the ship made fifteen inches water an hour during the night; but as the pumps could clear this quantity, they were not uneasy. At nine in the morning they passed two islands, which were called HOPE ISLANDS, because the reaching of them had been the object of their wishes at the time of the shipwreck. In the afternoon the Master was sent out with two boats to sound, and search for a harbour where the ship might be repaired. They anchored at sun-set, in four fathom, two miles from the shore. One of the Mates being out in the pinnace, returned at nine o’clock, reporting, that he had found just such a harbour as was wanted, at the distance of two leagues.

At six o’clock the next morning they sailed, having previously sent two boats a-head, to lie on the shoals that they saw in their way. They soon anchored about a mile from the shore, when the Captain went out, and found the channel very narrow, but the harbour was better adapted to their present purpose, than any place they had seen in the whole course of their voyage. As it blew very fresh this day and the following night, they could not venture to run into the harbour, but remained at anchor during the two succeeding days, in the course of which they observed four Indians on the hills, who stopped and made two fires.

The men by this time began to be afflicted with the scurvy, and their Indian friend, Tupia, was so bad with it, that he had livid spots on both his legs. Mr. Green, the astronomer, was likewise ill of the same disorder; so that their being detained from landing was every way disagreeable. The wind continued fresh till Sunday the 17th, but they then resolved to push in for the harbour, and twice ran the ship a-ground; the second time of which she stuck fast; on which they took the booms, fore-yard, and fore-top-masts down, and made a raft on the side of the ship; and, as the tide happened to be rising, she floated at one o’clock. She was now soon got into the harbour, where she was moored along the side of a beach, and the anchors, cables, &c. immediately taken out of her.

On Monday morning they erected a tent for the sick, several of whom were brought on shore as soon as it was ready for their reception. They likewise built a tent to hold the provisions and stores, which were landed the same day. The boat was now dispatched in search of fish for the refreshment of the sick, but she returned without getting any; but Tupia employed himself in angling; and living entirely on the produce of his industry, recovered his health very fast. Mr. Banks, in an excursion up the country, saw the frames of several Indian houses, which appeared to have been abandoned some time: while the Captain, having ascended one of the highest hills, observed the high land to be stoney and barren, and the low land near the river over-run with mangroves, among which the salt-water flowed every tide.

On Tuesday the Captain ordered the smith’s forge to be set up, and directed the armourer to prepare the necessary iron work for the repair of the vessel. He likewise ordered out the officers stores, water, &c. in order to lighten the ship. This day Mr. Banks crossed the river to view the country, which was little else than sand-hills. He saw vast flocks of crows and pigeons, of the latter of which he shot several, which were most beautiful birds. On the day following, as they were removing the coals, the water rushed in, near the foremast, about three feet from the keel; so that it was resolved to clear the hold entirely; wherefore they took out all the coals, and the next day warped the ship higher up the harbour, to a station proper for laying her a-shore, in order to stop the leak.

Early in the morning of the 22d the tide left the ship, and they proceeded to examine the leak, when they found that the rocks had cut through four planks into the timbers, and that three other planks were damaged. In these breaches not a splinter was to be seen, the whole being smooth, as if cut away by an instrument: but the preservation of the vessel was owing to a very singular circumstance. One of the holes was large enough to have sunk her, even with eight pumps constantly at work; but this hole was in a great measure stopped up by the fragment of the rock being left sticking in it. They likewise found some pieces of the oakham, wool, &c. which had got between the timbers, and stopped many parts of the leak which had been left open by the stone. Exclusive of the leak, great damage was done to various parts of the ship’s bottom.

While the smiths were engaged in making nails and bolts, the carpenters began to work on the vessel; and some of the crew were sent across the river to shoot pigeons for the sick. These people found a stream of fresh water, discovered many Indian houses, and had sight of a mouse-coloured animal, extremely swift, and about the size of a greyhound. On the 23d they saw plenty of fish, but catched only three. This day many of the crew saw the animal above-mentioned; and one of the seamen declared he had seen the Devil, which he described in the following words, “He was as large, says he, as a one gallon keg, and very like it; he had horns and wings, yet he crept so slowly through the grass, that if I had not been _afeard_, I might have touched him.” It appeared afterwards, that this poor fellow had seen a bat, which is almost black, and as large as a partridge; and his own apprehensions had furnished his Devil with horns.

The repairs on the starboard side having been finished the preceding day, the carpenters began to work under the larboard bow, on Sunday the 24th.--This day Mr. Gore and a party procured a bunch or two of wild plantains, and a few palm cabbages, for the refreshment of the sick; and the Captain and Mr. Banks saw the animal abovementioned, which had a long tail, that it carried like a greyhound; it leapt like a deer, and the point of its foot resembled that of a goat.

The ship was now examined abaft, when it was discovered, that she had received but little injury in that quarter. The carpenters continued to work on her whenever the tide would permit. The vessel was now in a position which threw all the water abaft; and Mr. Banks having removed his whole collection of plants into the bread-room, they were this day found under water, by which some of them were totally destroyed; but, by great care, most of them were restored to a state of preservation.

The ship being in part repaired, they twice attempted to float her, by lashing a number of casks under her bottom; but their endeavours proving fruitless, they were obliged to wait for the next spring tide. This day a plant was found, the leaves of which were almost as good as spinnage. They likewise found more cabbage trees, some wild plantain, and a fruit of a deep purple colour, and the size of a golden pippin; which, after being kept a few days, tasted like a damson.

The carpenter was now engaged in caulking the ship, and the men employed in filling water and other necessary business; while the Captain amused himself in catching fish for the sick. On the 28th Mr. Banks took some of the crew up the country, to shew them a plant which served them for greens, and which the inhabitants of the West Indies call Indian kale. Here they saw a tree notched for climbing, in the same way as those seen in Botany bay. They also met with nests of white ants, from a few inches to five feet in height. Mr. Gore was up the country, where he saw prints of the feet of men, and the tracks of three or four kinds of animals.

On the day following the boat took as many fish as allowed a pound and an half to each man. A Midshipman saw a wolf, exactly resembling those of America. On the 30th the Captain ascended a hill to take a view of the sea, when, to his great concern, he observed innumerable sand-banks and shoals, in every direction; but there was an appearance of a passage to the northward, the only way he could think of getting clear, as the wind constantly blows from the south-east. Mr. Gore this day saw two straw-coloured animals, of the size of a hare, but shaped like a dog. So much fish was taken, that each man had two pounds and a half; and plenty of greens were gathered, which being boiled with the pease, their fare was deemed excellent.

On Sunday July the 1st, all the men had permission to go on shore, except one from each mess, who went on the fishing party, and again met with great success. A fire was this day observed about a mile up the river. The master having been sent in the pinnace, in search of a channel, returned on Tuesday, with an account that he had found a passage out to sea, between the shoals, which consisted of coral rocks, many of which were left dry at low water. He found some cockles so large, that one of them was more than sufficient for two men; and likewise plenty of other shell-fish, of which he brought a supply to the ship, in his return to which he had landed in a bay where some Indians were at supper; but they instantly fled, leaving some sea-eggs, and a fire for the dressing them. This day they succeeded in an attempt to float the ship; when they found that, by the position she had lain in, she had sprung a plank, so that it was again necessary to lay her ashore. An alligator swam by her several times this day.

On the 4th she was laid ashore on a sand-bank, and the next day floated at high water, and moored off the beach, in order to receive the stores on board. This day Mr. Banks crossed the harbour, and found, on a sandy beach, a great number of fruits, such as they had not seen before; among which was a cocoa-nut, which Tupia said had been opened by a crab, and which was judged to be what the Dutch call Beurs Krabbe. The vegetable substances which Mr. Banks picked up were encrusted with marine productions, which is said to be a proof of their having been brought far by sea.