Chapter I: Front Matter

WESTWARD HOBOES

WESTWARD HOBOES

UPS AND DOWNS
OF FRONTIER MOTORING

BY
WINIFRED HAWKRIDGE DIXON

PHOTOGRAPHS BY
KATHERINE THAXTER AND ROLLIN LESTER DIXON

NEW YORK
CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS
1921

COPYRIGHT, 1921, BY
CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS

Published October, 1921
Reprinted twice in December, 1921

PRINTED AT
THE SCRIBNER PRESS
NEW YORK, U. S. A.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. WESTWARD HO! 1

II. FROM NEW YORK TO ANTOINE’S 7

III. A LONG WAYS FROM HOME 15

IV. CHIVALRY VS. GUMBO 25

V. NIBBLING AT THE MAP OF TEXAS 35

VI. “DOWN BY THE RIO GRANDE” 47

VII. SANDSTORMS, BANDITS AND DEAD SOLDIERS 60

VIII. TUCSON 74

IX. TWENTY PER CENT GRADES, FORTY PER CENT
VANILLA 82

X. THE APACHE TRAIL AND TONTO VALLEY 98

XI. FRIDAY THE THIRTEENTH 121

XII. WHY ISLETA’S CHURCH HAS A WOODEN FLOOR 148

XIII. SANTE FÉ AND THE VALLEY OF THE RIO
GRANDE 160

XIV. SAYING GOOD-BY TO BILL 190

XV. LAGUNA AND ACOMA 204

XVI. THE GRAND CANYON AND THE HAVASUPAI
CANYON 220

XVII. FROM WILLIAMS TO FORT APACHE 234

XVIII. THE LAND OF THE HOPIS 244

XIX. THE FOUR CORNERS 258

XX. RAINBOW BRIDGE 270

XXI. THE CANYON DE CHELLEY 296

XXII. NORTH OF GALLUP 308

XXIII. ON NATIONAL PARKS AND GUIDES 326

XXIV. THE NAIL-FILE AND THE CHIPPEWA 346

XXV. HOMEWARD HOBOES 358

ILLUSTRATIONS

The silver bracelet, Walpi _Frontispiece_

FACING PAGE

Our first camp, Texas 52

San Xavier Del Bac, Tucson, and the Rapago Indian village 76

Doorway of San Xavier Del Bac, Tucson 78

Great rocks seem to float on the stream, mysteriously
lighted, like Böcklin’s isle of the dead 116

Natural bridge, Pine, Arizona 118

The church at Isleta 152

Her bread was baked, delicious and crusty, in the round outdoor
ovens her grandmothers used as far back as B. C.
or so 154

Against a shady wall, all but too lazy to light the inevitable
cigarette, slouches, wherever one turns, a Mexican 164

A Mexican morado, New Mexico 166

The museum of Santa Fé 166

Santa Domingo woman 176

Taos woman 176

Koshari: rain dance: San Yldefonso 176

Rain dance, San Yldefonso 178

Cave dwellings in the pumice walls of Canyon de Los Frijoles,
Santa Fé 182

Artist’s studio in Taos, New Mexico 188

Coronado was the first white man to visit this ancient pueblo
at Taos, New Mexico 188

The car sagged drunkenly on one side 200

Fording a river near Santa Fé 200

On the way to Gallup 200

Pueblo women grinding corn in metate bins 206

Pueblo woman wrapping deer-skin leggins 206

Acoma, New Mexico 212

Burros laden with fire-wood, Santa Fé, New Mexico 212

At the foot of the trail, Acoma 214

The enchanted mesa, Acoma, New Mexico 214

A street in Acoma, New Mexico 218

The Acoma Mission, New Mexico 218

In the Grand Canyon of the Colorado 222

A Navajo maid on a painted pony 222

The land of the sky-blue water, Havasupai Canyon, Arizona 224

Horseman in Havasupai Canyon, Arizona 226

Panorama of Havasupai Canyon, Arizona 228

Mooney’s Fall, Havasupai Canyon, Arizona 232

A trout stream in the White Mountains, Arizona 240

The village of Walpi 250

Oldest house in Walpi 250

Young eaglet captured for use in the Hopi snake-dance
ceremonies 254

Second mesa, Hopi Reservation 256

A Hotavilla Sybil 256

Navajo Mountain from the mouth of Segi Canyon 278

Rainbow Bridge Trail near Navajo Mountain 282

Crossing Bald Rock, on Rainbow Bridge Trail 284

Rainbow Bridge, Utah 286

Monument country, Rainbow Trail 294

Rainbow Bridge Trail 294

Entrance to the Canyon de Chelley 298

Quicksand; Canyon de Chelley 300

Near the entrance of Canyon de Chelley, Arizona 302

Cliff-dwellings, Canyon de Chelley, Arizona 304

Casa Blanca, Canyon de Chelley, Arizona 306

Navajo sheep-dipping at Shiprock 312

Cliff-dwellings, Mesa Verde Park, Colorado 316

Shoshones at sun dance, Fort Hall, Idaho 322

A Shoshone tepee, Fort Hall, Idaho 324

Camping near Yellowstone Park 328

Grand Canyon, Yellowstone Park 330

Glacier Park, Montana 332

Blackfeet Indians at Glacier Park, Montana 336

Two Medicine Lake, Glacier Park, Montana 344

Wrangling horses, Glacier Park, Montana 344

A Mormon irrigated village 354

The “Million Dollar” Mormon Temple at Cardston, Alberta,
Canada 354

WESTWARD HOBOES