Chapter I: Preface

The kind and uncritical reception of my first volume, both at home and abroad, leaves no occasion for a formal introduction of my second. Sitting at the same broad old farm-house fireside, let me assume the same friendly companionable relation with my readers, improved by better acquaintance, and go on with my talk freely and unconstrainedly as before.

To any stranger who may like to know what it is about, I will add, that the volume is almost entirely descriptive of rustic and rural matters, as they came in the way of a party of young Americans walking through some of the western and southern parts of England, with such observations upon them as a young democratic farmer would naturally make.

I have added, in an Appendix, some information and advice to those wishing to make a pedestrian tour in Europe at small expense.

FRED. LAW OLMSTED.

TOSOMOC FARM,
_Southside, Staten Island, Sept. 2, 1852_.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

An Irish-Englishman.—Shrewsbury Cakes and Brawn.—Shrewsbury
Show.—Angling in Curricles.—Sheep-walks.—Effect of Thorough Draining
on Dry Soils.—Gorse.—Church Stretton.—Churchyard Literature.—Encounter
with an Enthusiastic Free-trader. 9

CHAPTER II.

Country Carrier’s Cart.—Independent Breakfast.—Beauty.—Old Inn.—Jack
up the Chimney.—Bacon and Bread; Beer and Rum.—Ludlow.—An Apostolic
Church.—The Poor-house.—_Case_ of a Broken Heart.—Refreshment. 17

CHAPTER III.

Physical Education.—A Rustic Village.—Farm-house Kitchen.—An
Orchard.—Stables.—Leominster.—A Trout Brook.—Fruit Culture. 23

CHAPTER IV.

English Orchard Districts.—The most Favourable Soils and
Climate.—Lime.—Practical Deduction.—Diseases.—Prevention and
Remedies.—Suggestions. 27

CHAPTER V.

Decay of Varieties.—Two Theories: Knight’s, Downing’s.—English Theory
and Practice.—Practical Deductions.—Causes of Decay.—Remedies.—Hints to
Orchardists.—Special Manures.—Pruning.—Thorough Drainage.—A Satirical
Sketch.—Shooting the Apple-tree. 34

CHAPTER VI.

Roofs; Shingles; Tile; Thatch; the Advantages and Disadvantages of
each.—The Use of Thatch in America.—Hereford.—Christian Hospitality.—A
Milk Farm.—The Herefords—A Dangerous Man. 45

CHAPTER VII.

Warm Breakfast and Warm Hearts.—True Self-denial.—Primitive
Christianity.—A living Faith. 50

CHAPTER VIII.

The County Jail.—English Prison Discipline.—The Perfection of the
Present.—Education and Taxation.—What Next?—Captain Machonochie.—The
Mark System.—The Christian Idea of Punishment. 53

CHAPTER IX.

A Hit.—The Debtor’s Prison.—Utter Cleanliness.—“City” and
“Town.”—“Down” and “Up.”—Hereford Cathedral.—Church and State.—The
Public Promenade. 64

CHAPTER X.

A Stage-coach Ride.—Conversation with the Coachman.—A
Free-trader.—American and English Women.—Fair Play.—Woman’s
Rights.—Social Differences.—Frenchmen.—National
Vanities.—Democracy.—Free Trade.—Retaliation.—Aristocracy.—Natural
Laws.—The Law of Love.—Fraternity. 68

CHAPTER XI.

Shady Lanes.—Rural Sketches.—Herefordshire and Monmouthshire
Scenery.—Points of Difference in English and American
Landscapes.—Visit to a Farm-house.—The Mistress.—The Farm-house
Garden.—A Stout Old English Farmer.—The Stables and Stock.—Turnip
Culture.—Sheep.—Wheat.—Hay.—Rents.—Prices.—A Parting.—Cider. 88

CHAPTER XII.

Walk with a Rustic.—Family Meeting.—A Recollection of the
Rhine.—Ignorance and Degraded Condition of the English Agricultural
Labourer.—How he is regarded by his Superiors.—The Principles of
Government.—Duties of the Governing.—Education.—Slavery.—The Diet of
Labourers.—Drink.—Bread.—Bacon.—Fresh Meat. 99

CHAPTER XIII.

Tintern Abbey and the Wye.—English Screw-steamers.—Tide
Deluge.—St. Vincent’s Rocks.—Bristol-built Vessels.—The
Vale of Gloucester.—Whitfield “Example Farm.”—Hedge-row
Timber.—Drainage.—Buildings.—Stock.—Soiling.—Manure.—Wheat.—Beets
and Turnips.—Disgraceful Agriculture.—The Landed Gentry.—Wages of
Labourers. 110

CHAPTER XIV.

Bath.—Warminster.—Burly Postmaster.—A Doubtful Character.—Polite
Inn-keeper and Pretty Chambermaid.—The Tap-room Fireside.—Rustic
Civility.—Rainy Morning in a Country Inn.—Coming to Market.—The Road
in a Storm.—Scudding. 116

CHAPTER XV.

The South Downs.—Wiltshire Landscape.—Chalk and Flint—Irrigation.—The
Cost and Profit of Water-meadows.—Sewerage Water.—Irrigation in Old
Times. 123

CHAPTER XVI.

Flocks, Dogs, and Shepherds of Salisbury Plain.—Village
Almshouses.—Ostentation in Alms-giving.—A Forced March.—At Home in
Salisbury.—The Street Brooks.—The Cathedral.—Architectural Remark and
Advice.—Village Churches. 132

CHAPTER XVII.

Salisbury Plain.—Strange Desert Character of the
Scenery.—The Agriculture.—Sainfoin and Lucerne.—Large
Farms.—Effect on Labourers.—Paring and Burning.—When
Expedient.—Expense.—Sheep-folding.—Moveable Railways and Sheds. 139

CHAPTER XVIII.

An Arcadian Hamlet.—Out of the World, but not Beyond the Reach
of the Yankee Peddler.—The Cottages of the Downs.—Grout and
Cobble-stones.—Character of the Labouring Class of the Downs.—Want
of Curiosity.—Old Stockbridge, Winchester, William of Wykeham.—His
Legacy to Wayfarers.—The Cathedral.—Some Remarks on Architectural
Situation.—Search for Lodgings.—Motherly Kindness.—Railroad
Mismanagement.—Waterloo Day at Portsmouth. 146

CHAPTER XIX.

The Deceit of Descriptions of Scenery.—The Soul of a Landscape.—The
Isle of Wight, its Characteristics.—Appropriate Domestic
Architecture.—Genial Climate.—Tropical Verdure.—The Cliffs of
Albion.—Osborne.—The Royal Villa.—Country Life of the Royal
Family.—Agricultural Inclination and Rural Tastes.—The Royal
Tenantry.—A Rural Fête at Osborne. 154

CHAPTER XX.

The Queen’s Yacht.—Yachts of the R. Y. Club, their Build and
Rig.—Comparison with American Yachts and Pilot-boats.—Seamanship.—Cut
of Sails.—The Navy-yard at Portsmouth.—Gun-boats.—Steamers.—Naval Force
of Great Britain.—Evening at Portsea.—Curiosity.—About Boasting and
some English Characteristics.—Conversation with a Shopkeeper on the
“Glory of England.” 159

CHAPTER XXI.

Rural Police.—The “Anchor” Inn.—The Garden.—“Old Coaching Times.”—Heath
Land.—A Dreary Landscape.—Murder and a Highway Adventure.—Human
Vanity. 166

CHAPTER XXII.

London Lads.—Railway Ride.—Observations in Natural History. 170

CHAPTER XXIII.

Rural Labourers near London.—Our Mother
Tongue.—Cockneys.—Provincialists.—On the Naturalization of Foreign
Words.—Authorities.—Suburban London.—London.—The Thames.—“Saint Paul’s
from Blackfriar’s Bridge.” 173

APPENDIX. 181

Walks and Talks

OF AN

AMERICAN FARMER IN ENGLAND.