Chapter I: Preface

A few years ago I was Resident Engineer of the projected Madeira and Mamoré Railway, to be constructed in the Province of Matto Grosso, in the Empire of Brazil, and as nearly as possible in the centre of the Continent of South America. From various causes the prosecution of the enterprise fell into abeyance for some considerable time. When the works were temporarily stopped, several reasons combined to induce me to return home by way of Bolivia and Peru. During that journey I kept up my ordinary custom of keeping a rough diary, and I have since dressed up my notes into something of a consecutive form. The resumption of the railway works has led me to think that some interest would attach to a description of a route across South America that has yet been but little travelled over. It has also occurred to me, that nowadays, when the Eastern trip to India, China, Japan, and home _viâ_ San Francisco and New York, has been done by so many there may be adventurous spirits in search of new worlds to conquer, who would be pleased to know of a journey offering the combined attractions of canoeing on the magnificent affluents of the Amazon and a journey in the saddle across the Andes. My endeavour therefore has been to give all the information in my possession regarding the method and expense of travelling over the route indicated.

In grateful remembrance of many kindnesses received, I have dedicated my labours to the indefatigable worker who, for many years past, has devoted his life to the noble enterprise of opening a way to the markets of Europe for the many and varied products of the Republic of Bolivia and the Province of Matto Grosso in the Empire of Brazil.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

CHAPTER I.

Brazilian coast—True and false Salinas—Dangers of the mouth of
the Amazon—Pará—Steamers on the Amazon—Amazon Steam Shipping
Company, Limited—Vicinity of Pará—European residents—Climate 1

CHAPTER II.

Bay of Marajo—Lighthouses—Rule of the road for
steamers—Vegetation on the Amazon—Rubber trees—Boa
Vista—Corralinha—Breves—Parainha—Gurupá—Mont
Alegre—Cattle-feeding grounds—River Tapajoz—Santarem—American
settlers—Obidos—Manufacture of charqui—Villa
Bella—Serpa—Navigation of the Amazon 7

CHAPTER III.

Manáos—Trade direct with Europe—Obelisk commemorating opening
of the river Amazon to all flags—Climate of Manáos—Absence
of mosquitoes—River Madeira—Rubber-collecting preferred
to agriculture—Mode of collection and preparation of the
rubber—Guaraná 12

CHAPTER IV.

Borba—Tobacco—Island of Araras—Piedras de
Uruás—Cachoerina—Exaltacion—Manicoré—Mundurucu
Indians—Marmélos—Bayetas—Juma—Mission of San Pedro—Crato—Old
penal settlement—Umaitá—Parententin Indians—Missionary efforts
unable to reclaim these savages—Praia of Tamandoa—Turtles—San
Antonio 18

CHAPTER V.

Madeira and Mamoré Railway—Ocean steamers can ascend to the
first rapid—Brazilian outposts—Difference between high and low
water below the rapid—Rainfall—Temperature—Scenery—Marks on
rocks—Glossy black deposit on rocks—Trees of the forest—Brazil
nuts—Alligators—Peixebois, pirahybas, pirarucus, and other
fish—Tapirs, how shot—Onças, and other animals—Birds, wild
turkeys, ducks, etc.—Insects, mosquitoes, ants, etc.—Snakes,
etc., etc. 23

CHAPTER VI.

Rapids of the Madeira River—Journey undertaken—Canoes, Indians,
and other requirements for the journey described—Articles good
for trading with savages—Provisions, etc. 32

CHAPTER VII.

A start made—Canoe heavily laden—San Antonio rapid passed—Slow
progress made—Method of passing over strong currents—The current
of Macacos—The Bay of Theotonio—Canoe nearly swamped in same—The
Falls of Theotonio—Fish at foot of falls—Franciscan mission to
the Pamas—The portage of Theotonio 39

CHAPTER VIII.

Currents above Theotonio—Loss of a small canoe—Theft of rum at
night by one of the Bolivian boatmen—The rapid of Morinhos—Crew
turn out to be very weak and slow—Plan for securing a good
crew—The river Yaci-Paraná—Morning fogs—Igarapé of the Caripuna
savages—Capitan Cinco’s Island—Buena Esperanza—Rations given to
the boatmen 45

CHAPTER IX.

The rapid of Calderão do Inferno—Attacks of fever and
vomiting—Caripuna savages—Death of a Bolivian boy—Earth-eating
practised by the Indians—Death of Mariano, a Bolivian
boatman—Peculiar custom prevailing amongst the Indians—The Falls
of Girão—Miseries of a wet night 51

CHAPTER X.

The rapid of Trés Irmãos—Meeting with the Pacaguara savages—The
river Trés Irmãos—Wild turkeys 57

CHAPTER XI.

San Louise—Track across the big bend of the river—Corrientes
and Remansos—The rapid of Paredão—Violence of one of the Indian
boatmen during a fit—The rapids of Pederneira—La Cruz—Probability
that the country is level in the interior on the right bank of
the river—As Penhas Coloradas 63

CHAPTER XII.

The rapid of Araras—Farinha and sardines for supper—Difficulty of
treating the Indians successfully when they are sick—The current
of Periquitos—Arrival at the Rabo do Ribeirão—The Bolivian
Indian’s chaunt at night—Passage of the Rabo do Ribeirão—Quantity
of farinha consumed by boatmen, in the form of “shebee”—Canoe
aground in the bay below the main fall of Ribeirão—The river
Ribeirão—The portage of Ribeirão—Curious marks on rocks 69

CHAPTER XIII.

Bad arrangements of the Bolivian patrons for rationing their
men—The rapid of Misericordia—Tradition attached thereto—Meeting
with canoes from Bolivia—The Madeira rapids and the junction of
the river Beni—Nomenclature of the river Madeira in its different
sections—The rapids of Layes—Wild cocoa trees—The Falls of Pao
Grande 78

CHAPTER XIV.

The river Yata—Meeting with another party descending from
Bolivia—The rapids of Bananeiras—Abandoned settlement—Variability
of the Bolivian character—The cabeçeiras of Bananeiras—The Sierra
da Paca Nova—The rapids of Guajará Guasu and Merim—A few hints on
leaving the last of the rapids 85

CHAPTER XV.

Start made up river above rapids with drums beating—The islands
of Cavalho Marinho—A party of Baure Indians met with—Rate of
progress calculated at two miles per hour—Otters, alligators, and
monkeys shot—Steam navigation practicable on the river above the
rapids—Stock taken of food-supplies left—Long hours worked 93

CHAPTER XVI.

Junction of the river Itenez—Short description of the Itenez
or Guaporé and its affluents—Fires at night prohibited on
account of savages—A capybara shot—Abundance of game above the
rapids—False alarms of attack by savages—Cooking-stove rigged
up in the canoe—The river Matocari—Hard work towing canoe—Open
pampas—Strong gale from the south hinders progress—Chocolotales
of Exaltacion—Falling banks—Estancia de Santiago—Value of oxen in
the Estancias of Mojos 102

CHAPTER XVII.

“El Cerrito”—Small steamer, the _Explorador_—“Taita Crusa”—The
town of Exaltacion—The fifteen missions of the Beni and the
tribes that belong to them—Some numerals and words in Mojeño,
Cayubaba, Canichana, and Yuracaré—Education of the Indians 119

CHAPTER XVIII.

Festival of St. John the Baptist—Water-throwing—Morning
mass—Church of La Exaltacion de la Santa Cruz—“Macheteros,”
or Soldiers of the Cross—Decrease of the Indians of the
Beni—Suggestions for the re-population of the department—A crew
for Trinidad obtained with difficulty—Desertion of an Indian
lad—Landslip and dangers of the port of Exaltacion—Changes in the
courses of the rivers—Richness of the soil—Prices of provisions 128

CHAPTER XIX.

Leave Exaltacion—Improvement in crew—Mobima Indians of Santa
Ana—“Mani” planted on sandbanks—The river Yacuma—Trading up
the Yacuma to Reyes, San Pablo, San Borja, etc.—Multitudes
of mosquitoes, etc.—Shoal of fish—Storks, ducks,
flamingoes—Canichana Indians—The river Apiri and the village
of San Ignacio—Poling over the shallows—The river Jamucheo—San
Pedro—Traders haul their canoes over a portage to San
Pedro—Weather turns very cold—The river Ybari—Arrival at Trinidad 139

CHAPTER XX.

Pampas of Trinidad—Oxen of the Beni—Merchants of
Trinidad—Carayanas—Cholos—Indios—Chicha, general drink in
Bolivia—Baile and Spanish dance—Bolivian drinking—Bolivian
peculiarities—The old maid’s black cat—Smallpox amongst the
Indians—Depopulation of Trinidad—Wages of the peons—Drills,
hammocks, shirts, and hats made by Indians—Prices of
provisions—Trade in Trinidad—Depreciated currency—Melgarejos 151

CHAPTER XXI.

Start from Trinidad with convoy of nine canoes—Hacienda de San
Antonio—Shifting of the river’s course—The river Securé—Bella
Vista, the port of Loreto—Siriono savages—State and ceremony
in preparation of meals—Excellent character of Bolivian
chocolate—Junction of the river Grande—River Piray—The
Mamoré left, and the Chapari entered—The Chimoré route to
Coni preferable to that of the Chapari—Class of steamers
suitable for the Upper Mamoré—Difficulties of navigation in the
Chapari—Scarcity of game—Number of Indians available in Trinidad
for navigation of the upper rivers—The raya fish—Jaguars—Mountain
ranges approached—Bamboo trees seen—The river Coni 165

CHAPTER XXII.

Coni and its trade—Yuracaré Indians—Their bark shirts,
ornaments, and dyes—Musical instruments—Tradition of Cain
and Abel—Difference between the Indians of the interior and
those of the plains—Bravery of the Yuracarés—Start from
Coni—Pachimoco—River San Antonio—Cristal Maio—Continuous
rains—Zinc-roofed houses—Coca plantations—Minas
Maio—Metalliferous character of district—Coffee and cotton—El
Chaco—Cuesta of Lina Tambo—Los Jocotales—Inca Corral—Cuesta de
Malaga—Snowstorms 185

CHAPTER XXIII.

Total change in the appearance of nature—Cochi-janchi—Barley
and potatoes—Chuño—Road to Coni by Bandiola—Sacába—Approach to
Cochabamba—Tambos—Apartments—The city and people—Luxuriously
furnished houses—Fruits, flowers, and grain crops—Douche
baths—Alaméda, or public garden—Sweets and ices—Tertulias and
rocking-chairs—Commercial firms and their trade—Cascarilla,
or cinchona bark—Hospitality of foreign residents
and others—Moonlight ride—Climate—Want of sanitary
arrangements—Mineral wealth of the district 212

CHAPTER XXIV.

Shortest route to the Pacific coast from Cochabamba—Journey
to Sucre _viâ_ Totora determined upon—Leave Cochabamba
in one of Haviland and Keay’s coaches—Dangers of the
journey—Tarata and Cliza—The pampas compared to the plains
of Central India—Punata—Señor Manuel Arauco, his house,
family, museum, etc.—Manufacture of felt hats, ponchos,
etc.—Arani—Lagoons near Vacas—Irrigation works—New road
between Arani and Totora—Pocona—Totora—Proposed road from
Totora to the river Chimoré—Probable future system of roads in
the east of Bolivia—Misque—Ravines and river-courses used as
roads—Aiquile—Chinguri—Quiroga—Palca—Cuestas Jaboncillo and
Masa-Cruz—Canto Molino—Thermal spring of Huata—First view of
Sucre 237

CHAPTER XXV.

Sucre—Seat of the Government—Court of Justice and
Archbishopric—Cathedral—Image of “Our Lady of Guadalupe”—Plate
and pictures—Revolting character of the pictures—The clergy
of Bolivia—Palacio del Gobierno—Sala del Congreso—Deputies
and Debates—Treaty with Chili—Diplomatic body—Politics and
parties—Quintin Quevedo—Casimir Corral—Sack of his house in La
Paz—Rojos, or Ballivianistas—Hilarion Daza—Schemes for roads
to the river Paraguay—River Amazon _v._ river Paraguay—Remarks
upon the finances of Bolivia—Results to be expected from
the enterprise of the Madeira and Mamoré Railway—Closing of
Congress—The Bolivian flag—Revolution of 1874—Defeat of Quevedo
and Corral, and deposition of Frias by Daza 260

CHAPTER XXVI.

The Prado of Sucre—Belzu’s Rotunda—The President’s evening
constitutional—Personal politics—Quevedo’s birthday
banquet—Dancing with the general—Ball at the Chilian
Embassy—Baile caramba!—Environs of Sucre—La Paz not visited
on account of revolution in progress—Routes to ocean and
home—Santa Cruz, Curumbá, and the Paraguay—Oran and the
Vermejo—Tarija and Cinti—Cinti wines and spirits—Cobija and
Desert of Atacama—Silver mines of Caracoles, etc.—Encroachments
by Chili—Official report on the Desert of Atacama, published by
the Government of Chili—Description of the road to Tacna and
Arica commenced—Preparations for journey—Servants and their
pay—“Postas”—Buying and selling mules—A few requisites for a land
journey 294

CHAPTER XXVII.

Leave Sucre under escort of English residents—Village of
Nutshucc—Yotala—“Quintas,” or farmhouses—Don Tomas Frias’
country-house—Señor Pacheco’s quinta—The river Cachimayo and
its basket bridge—Fever at Nutshucc—The river Pilcomayo—Terrado
and Pampa-tambo—Quebrada Honda—Bartolo—Potosí—The Soroche—The
Fonda Coca—The Cerro de Potosí—Silver mines—Reservoirs—Church
of La Matriz—The mint—New coinage—Burying money—Future of
mining in Potosí—Departure from Potosí—Tarapaya—Yocalla—Yocalla
bridge built by the devil in a night—Leñas—Loss of my aneroid
barometer—Vicuñas—Condors—Lagunillas—Tolapalca—Bolivian
Norfolk-Howards, or Vinchutas—Vilcapujio—Curious custom
of Indian women—Llamas and alpacas—Ancacata—The pampa of
Aullagas—The “Chulpas”—Catariri, Pazna and Poopo—Miserable
appearance of mining towns in Bolivia—Machacamarca—Rumours of
revolution—Beautiful mirage—Arrival at Oruro 313

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Oruro—Mineral districts and mining
operations—“Barilla”—Freighting ore by llamas—Future of mining
in Oruro—Attempted revolution in Oruro—Night attack on the
Quartel—Start from Oruro for Tacna—The river Desaguadero—The
ferry called La Barca—Llollia—Escape of the mules during
night—Indian cooking arrangements—Dress and appearance of Indian
men and women—El Cruzero—“Quinoa”—Heavy storms—Electrified
state of the atmosphere—Peculiar strata observed near El
Cruzero—Curahuara de Carangas—Its church, people, and parish
priest—Travelling jewellers—Mining prospects of the district 348

CHAPTER XXIX.

Pichagas—The peak of Sahama—Chocos—Capture of a sheep for
fresh meat—Ostriches—Sepulturas—Mortality amongst animals—Mule
attacked with belly pains—El Cerro del Volcan—Las Siete
Vueltas—Bright-coloured hills—Peru entered—Tacora—Mules attacked
with soroche—El Rio de Azufre—Aqueduct to Tacna from river
Maury—The pass of Chulancani—Apacheta of bones—Aspect of the
Pacific slope of the Andes—Projected railway between Tacna and La
Paz—The Portada—El Ingenio—Palca—New road in construction—Arrival
at Tacna—The hotel Bola de Oro—Tacna and its trade—Attempt to
sell the mules in Tacna—Railway from Tacna to Arica—Effects of
the great hurricane wave of 1869—Arica—By steamer from Arica to
Callao—Callao—Its magnificent harbour—Lima—The cathedral—Plaza
de Armas—Old bridge, built in 1608—Firemen—By steamer from
Lima to Panamá—Payta—Panamá—Severe fires—The prison—Rail to
Aspinwall—Aspinwall—Home by mail steamer 371